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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,200 --> 00:00:10,320 A secretive complex in Bulgaria, part of a global information war. 2 00:00:11,800 --> 00:00:15,600 WOMAN:These communist states were willing to do anything 3 00:00:15,640 --> 00:00:18,880 to stop people telling the truth. 4 00:00:21,040 --> 00:00:26,000 A French compound where a staggering deception was launched. 5 00:00:26,040 --> 00:00:29,960 What unfolded was one of the great spy stories of the Second World War. 6 00:00:31,720 --> 00:00:34,160 An iconic Philadelphia venue 7 00:00:34,200 --> 00:00:38,200 that set the stage for era-defining artists. 8 00:00:38,240 --> 00:00:42,960 All these famous entertainers, it was electric in here. 9 00:00:44,000 --> 00:00:47,840 And a mansion in Malaysia, the scene of a baffling crime. 10 00:00:48,880 --> 00:00:51,520 MAN:This house was the site of a brutal killing. 11 00:00:51,560 --> 00:00:55,080 His body was found with a shotgun wound to the back of the head. 12 00:01:04,680 --> 00:01:08,440 80 miles from the Bulgarian capital Sofia 13 00:01:08,480 --> 00:01:10,360 is a hidden facility, 14 00:01:10,400 --> 00:01:13,920 the propaganda mouthpiece of a repressive regime. 15 00:01:17,920 --> 00:01:20,880 MAN:There's forest as far as the eye can see. 16 00:01:20,920 --> 00:01:24,160 It feels remote, out of the way, 17 00:01:24,200 --> 00:01:26,360 the perfect place to hide something. 18 00:01:26,400 --> 00:01:30,240 MAN 2:Then out of trees rises this structure. 19 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:32,560 The whole thing has an ominous feel. 20 00:01:32,600 --> 00:01:35,440 WOMAN:It's massive and concrete. 21 00:01:35,480 --> 00:01:41,000 It is one of these Eastern European communist monoliths. 22 00:01:42,280 --> 00:01:44,400 Among the derelict remains, 23 00:01:44,440 --> 00:01:48,880 there are clues to why it was built in such an isolated location. 24 00:01:49,920 --> 00:01:54,200 Inside, it's been virtually stripped to the walls, 25 00:01:54,240 --> 00:01:57,960 but there's a few hints that it was a highly technological structure. 26 00:01:58,000 --> 00:02:01,480 There are these channels cut into the floor, 27 00:02:01,520 --> 00:02:03,280 maybe for pipes or cables. 28 00:02:03,320 --> 00:02:05,960 You can also see platforms 29 00:02:06,000 --> 00:02:08,840 that look like the bases for some kind of machinery. 30 00:02:10,000 --> 00:02:13,120 It has its own power line leading to it, 31 00:02:13,160 --> 00:02:15,520 so clearly, whatever happened here 32 00:02:15,560 --> 00:02:18,120 required an enormous amount of electricity. 33 00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:23,280 Could this have been some kind of secret government office 34 00:02:23,320 --> 00:02:25,200 or military research facility? 35 00:02:26,520 --> 00:02:29,560 It was created to fight a disinformation campaign 36 00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:32,000 from deep behind the Iron Curtain. 37 00:02:33,040 --> 00:02:35,360 But when the West gained the edge, 38 00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:38,800 this Cold War confrontation turned hot. 39 00:02:40,240 --> 00:02:43,520 The Bulgarian Government's control over information 40 00:02:43,560 --> 00:02:46,360 was so complete and so paranoid, 41 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:48,920 they were even willing to launch 42 00:02:48,960 --> 00:02:51,920 a daring assassination in the streets of London. 43 00:02:57,960 --> 00:02:59,960 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 44 00:03:08,120 --> 00:03:12,000 Spiridon Harizanov began working here as a technician 45 00:03:12,040 --> 00:03:14,120 in September 1988, 46 00:03:15,160 --> 00:03:19,000 when Bulgaria was part of the communist Soviet bloc. 47 00:03:27,560 --> 00:03:33,200 Construction on this high security government complex began in 1974. 48 00:03:34,440 --> 00:03:36,880 But it was designed to take part in a fight 49 00:03:36,920 --> 00:03:38,920 that began decades earlier. 50 00:03:40,880 --> 00:03:44,000 The Cold War was as much a political 51 00:03:44,040 --> 00:03:47,440 and ideological battle as a military confrontation. 52 00:03:47,480 --> 00:03:51,280 As the Eastern and Western superpowers were facing off 53 00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:52,840 with their nuclear arsenals, 54 00:03:52,880 --> 00:03:55,960 another unseen battle was unfolding 55 00:03:56,000 --> 00:03:58,040 over the airwaves. 56 00:03:58,080 --> 00:04:01,480 These structures were part of communist Bulgaria's attempt 57 00:04:01,520 --> 00:04:05,160 to convert the world to their way of thinking, 58 00:04:05,200 --> 00:04:08,120 using international radio broadcasting. 59 00:04:10,040 --> 00:04:11,720 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 60 00:04:18,560 --> 00:04:20,840 This complex had enough power, it was said, 61 00:04:20,880 --> 00:04:25,040 to broadcast a shortwave signal six times around the world. 62 00:04:26,080 --> 00:04:29,040 The people who worked here would work in 24-hour shifts, 63 00:04:29,080 --> 00:04:33,000 and the transmissions went all through the year, 64 00:04:33,040 --> 00:04:35,480 even on holidays, 24 hours a day. 65 00:04:36,600 --> 00:04:38,600 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 66 00:05:03,000 --> 00:05:06,200 This is the Padarsko Radio Centre. 67 00:05:07,240 --> 00:05:10,040 Transmissions from here included speeches 68 00:05:10,080 --> 00:05:13,280 by the country's leader, Todor Zhivkov, 69 00:05:13,320 --> 00:05:16,840 praising Bulgaria as a socialist workers' paradise, 70 00:05:17,880 --> 00:05:20,080 The reality was very different. 71 00:05:21,520 --> 00:05:23,400 HARIZANOV, IN BULGARIAN: 72 00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:33,240 People were not permitted to know anything 73 00:05:33,280 --> 00:05:38,120 that their dictators didn't want them to know. 74 00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:42,640 So Western nations set up operations to broadcast 75 00:05:42,680 --> 00:05:45,040 to various countries behind the Iron Curtain. 76 00:05:46,080 --> 00:05:48,680 There were stations like the Voice of America, 77 00:05:48,720 --> 00:05:51,840 Radio Free Europe, Radio Liberty and the BBC 78 00:05:51,880 --> 00:05:55,440 which all beamed programming direct into Bulgaria 79 00:05:55,480 --> 00:05:57,680 and the Soviet Union. 80 00:05:57,720 --> 00:06:02,160 NUSBACHER:And all of these radio stations are designed 81 00:06:02,200 --> 00:06:06,600 to have real journalists sending real news 82 00:06:06,640 --> 00:06:10,320 to parts of the world where all they were fed 83 00:06:10,360 --> 00:06:12,680 was government propaganda. 84 00:06:13,920 --> 00:06:15,880 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 85 00:06:20,920 --> 00:06:22,840 They also broadcast a lot of interviews 86 00:06:22,880 --> 00:06:25,480 with political leaders like President Eisenhower 87 00:06:25,520 --> 00:06:27,480 or John F Kennedy, 88 00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:30,880 entertainers like Elizabeth Taylor and Tom Jones, 89 00:06:30,920 --> 00:06:33,680 civil rights leaders including Martin Luther King. 90 00:06:34,760 --> 00:06:37,920 But it wasn't just American voices and celebrities 91 00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:39,600 that were beaming into Bulgaria. 92 00:06:39,640 --> 00:06:43,040 Exiles and dissidents were brought in 93 00:06:43,080 --> 00:06:48,000 to broadcast their criticisms of the regime back into the country. 94 00:06:48,040 --> 00:06:50,960 Help us to keep our young people 95 00:06:51,000 --> 00:06:54,240 from falling under the influence of the communists. 96 00:06:55,520 --> 00:07:01,320 In 1969, one of these political opponents fled to the West. 97 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:03,440 From there, he took to the airwaves 98 00:07:03,480 --> 00:07:05,520 attacking the Bulgarian regime. 99 00:07:05,560 --> 00:07:09,360 His name was Georgi Markov. 100 00:07:09,400 --> 00:07:11,040 SELWOOD:He had settled in England, 101 00:07:11,080 --> 00:07:13,480 where he worked for Radio Free Europe, 102 00:07:13,520 --> 00:07:15,440 the BBC and other radio stations, 103 00:07:15,480 --> 00:07:17,840 broadcasting back into his home country. 104 00:07:19,040 --> 00:07:21,080 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 105 00:07:28,040 --> 00:07:31,480 NUSBACHER:Markov is being very pointed 106 00:07:31,520 --> 00:07:35,280 in his criticism of the Bulgarian government, 107 00:07:35,320 --> 00:07:40,680 and of Todor Zhivkov, who was the Bulgarian dictator. 108 00:07:40,720 --> 00:07:44,720 Markoff is a very dangerous nuisance. 109 00:07:46,320 --> 00:07:49,800 Fearing his shows would incite a rebellion, 110 00:07:49,840 --> 00:07:54,040 Bulgarian authorities turned to facilities like Padarsko. 111 00:07:55,920 --> 00:07:57,920 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 112 00:08:11,800 --> 00:08:14,880 MEIGS:During shows they thought were particularly damaging, 113 00:08:14,920 --> 00:08:16,800 like Markov's shows, 114 00:08:16,840 --> 00:08:19,720 they would tune to that channel, 115 00:08:19,760 --> 00:08:24,040 broadcast on the same frequency interfering noise, 116 00:08:24,080 --> 00:08:26,360 music, crazy sounds. 117 00:08:26,400 --> 00:08:28,120 MAN ON RADIO: Here's the Soviet government's 118 00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:32,480 $120 million a year direct answer to Radio Liberty. 119 00:08:34,240 --> 00:08:35,760 Jamming. 120 00:08:37,120 --> 00:08:39,640 MEIGS:And they didn't just do it from this station, 121 00:08:39,680 --> 00:08:42,560 they had transmitters across the country 122 00:08:42,600 --> 00:08:47,120 that existed just to block out signals coming in from the West. 123 00:08:48,440 --> 00:08:50,280 According to one estimate, 124 00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:54,440 the Soviet government spent over $900 million a year 125 00:08:54,480 --> 00:08:56,800 to block Western broadcasts. 126 00:08:56,840 --> 00:09:00,200 This was more than the combined global budgets 127 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:03,120 of the radio stations they were trying to block out. 128 00:09:04,160 --> 00:09:06,400 But even with this huge investment, 129 00:09:06,440 --> 00:09:11,440 they weren't that successful at blocking these transmissions. 130 00:09:11,480 --> 00:09:15,800 A person could arrange their antenna in a certain way, 131 00:09:15,840 --> 00:09:18,240 or maybe drive out in the countryside, 132 00:09:18,280 --> 00:09:22,000 and they could often wind up hearing these broadcasts. 133 00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,360 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 134 00:09:34,560 --> 00:09:38,640 Georgi Markov's blistering criticisms of the Bulgarian leader, 135 00:09:38,680 --> 00:09:41,920 broadcast from London, continued to be heard. 136 00:09:44,160 --> 00:09:47,080 MEIGS:The Bulgarian authorities were so outraged 137 00:09:47,120 --> 00:09:49,680 at Markov's transmissions... 138 00:09:49,720 --> 00:09:52,560 they were really hitting home with the Bulgarian public... 139 00:09:52,600 --> 00:09:55,440 ..that they took a desperate measure. 140 00:09:56,480 --> 00:09:59,080 SELWOOD:On September the 7th 1978, 141 00:09:59,120 --> 00:10:02,000 Markov was walking across London's Waterloo Bridge, 142 00:10:02,040 --> 00:10:04,440 heading for his job at the BBC. 143 00:10:04,480 --> 00:10:07,480 Suddenly, he felt a sharp pain in his leg, 144 00:10:07,520 --> 00:10:09,440 as if he'd been stung by an insect. 145 00:10:10,640 --> 00:10:14,280 NUSBACHER:When that happened, he saw somebody bend over 146 00:10:14,320 --> 00:10:17,600 and pick up an umbrella and walk away. 147 00:10:17,640 --> 00:10:19,720 And he thought no more about it. 148 00:10:19,760 --> 00:10:22,800 MEIGS:But, by that evening, he was deathly ill 149 00:10:22,840 --> 00:10:24,440 and went to the hospital. 150 00:10:24,480 --> 00:10:26,400 They couldn't really figure out what was wrong with him, 151 00:10:26,440 --> 00:10:28,840 except for a tiny puncture in the back of his leg, 152 00:10:28,880 --> 00:10:30,760 but four days later, he was dead. 153 00:10:31,840 --> 00:10:33,720 NUSBACHER: There is a widespread theory 154 00:10:33,760 --> 00:10:36,400 that a Bulgarian Secret Service officer 155 00:10:36,440 --> 00:10:38,720 had an umbrella capable 156 00:10:38,760 --> 00:10:43,200 of injecting a pellet of ricin poison 157 00:10:43,240 --> 00:10:45,400 into Markov's leg, 158 00:10:45,440 --> 00:10:47,120 and the poison killed him. 159 00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:51,520 Every word he said over the radio 160 00:10:51,560 --> 00:10:55,720 was damaging to the Bulgarian Communist Party. 161 00:10:56,920 --> 00:11:01,080 Markov had to be stopped, and he was. 162 00:11:02,840 --> 00:11:07,000 Across the West, the attack was front page news. 163 00:11:07,040 --> 00:11:11,600 But in Bulgaria, the official line was complete silence. 164 00:11:12,640 --> 00:11:14,640 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 165 00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:27,840 Markov's killers were never bought to justice, 166 00:11:27,880 --> 00:11:30,640 and Padarsko continued to operate 167 00:11:30,680 --> 00:11:32,800 until a wave of democratic protests 168 00:11:32,840 --> 00:11:36,440 finally toppled the regime in the late 1980s. 169 00:11:37,520 --> 00:11:38,840 HARIZANOV, IN BULGARIAN: 170 00:11:46,240 --> 00:11:49,600 In 1990, Todor Zhikov was arrested 171 00:11:49,640 --> 00:11:53,440 and put on trial for corruption and abuse of power. 172 00:11:53,480 --> 00:11:57,040 He died while under house arrest eight years later. 173 00:11:58,400 --> 00:12:02,720 This facility was still used to transmit Radio Bulgaria 174 00:12:02,760 --> 00:12:05,120 for another couple of decades. 175 00:12:06,600 --> 00:12:09,280 SPEAKING BULGARIAN: 176 00:12:30,680 --> 00:12:34,360 MEIGS:No one has nostalgic memories of this facility, 177 00:12:34,400 --> 00:12:37,000 no one is organising fundraising 178 00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:41,360 to restore it or turn it into a park or museum. 179 00:12:41,400 --> 00:12:44,320 It sits here, out in the forest, abandoned. 180 00:12:44,360 --> 00:12:46,400 A bad memory of a very dark time. 181 00:12:51,080 --> 00:12:54,000 In Malaysia's Penang Province, 182 00:12:54,040 --> 00:12:58,360 tales of haunting and violence swirl around an isolated relic. 183 00:13:04,080 --> 00:13:06,840 MEIGS:We're in a lush tropical area, 184 00:13:06,880 --> 00:13:10,720 and at first, all you see is trees, it looks like an unbroken forest. 185 00:13:10,760 --> 00:13:14,960 WOMAN:In the middle of it all is this large, imposing ruin. 186 00:13:15,000 --> 00:13:17,720 Clearly, no one has lived here for a very long time. 187 00:13:18,760 --> 00:13:23,600 But the sparse interior does hold evidence of who built this place. 188 00:13:24,680 --> 00:13:27,600 SELWOOD:You can tell it was once a luxurious residence 189 00:13:27,640 --> 00:13:29,480 for a very wealthy person, 190 00:13:29,520 --> 00:13:32,800 but it doesn't look like a traditional Malay building. 191 00:13:32,840 --> 00:13:38,160 It's been built from heavy stone with palatial European features. 192 00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:43,360 It was constructed using the profits from an incredible resource boom. 193 00:13:43,400 --> 00:13:47,320 But, as a family tried to reassert dominance over this land, 194 00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:50,160 it became the scene of a twisted crime. 195 00:13:50,200 --> 00:13:53,960 WOMAN:It's one of Malaysia's most famous unsolved murders, 196 00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:56,680 but there are no shortage of theories. 197 00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:05,680 MAN:This is what we call a secret, mysterious place. 198 00:14:05,720 --> 00:14:10,160 You could feel the presence of something in the past. 199 00:14:11,800 --> 00:14:15,520 When Clement Liang first visited this grand ruin, 200 00:14:15,560 --> 00:14:20,200 locals told him about a spirit they believe still stalks these halls. 201 00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:25,000 LIANG:When I came here in 2006, 202 00:14:25,040 --> 00:14:30,520 there was actually a picture of a Hindu god on the staircase. 203 00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:33,760 So I was curious and asked the caretaker, "Why you did it?" 204 00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:36,920 "Oh, the spirit of John is still around. 205 00:14:36,960 --> 00:14:41,600 "We need to have some deity to console his spirit." 206 00:14:41,640 --> 00:14:46,160 John's full name was John St Maur Ramsden. 207 00:14:46,200 --> 00:14:48,480 He was part of a colonial dynasty 208 00:14:48,520 --> 00:14:53,920 that controlled vast amounts of land in British Malaya in the 1870s. 209 00:14:56,360 --> 00:14:59,800 SELWOOD:At first, the estate grew sugar cane, 210 00:14:59,840 --> 00:15:01,800 but a technological advancement 211 00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:05,080 would lead to a far more lucrative crop being grown here. 212 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:11,000 This radical transformation began with a revolutionary discovery 213 00:15:11,040 --> 00:15:15,040 made more than 9,000 miles away in the United States. 214 00:15:17,800 --> 00:15:21,360 MEIGS:In the mid 19th century, a self-taught American chemist 215 00:15:21,400 --> 00:15:24,560 named Charles Goodyear started tinkering with rubber 216 00:15:24,600 --> 00:15:28,360 to try to make it more durable and tougher and more elastic. 217 00:15:28,400 --> 00:15:32,160 Eventually, he came across a formula that was stretchy 218 00:15:32,200 --> 00:15:34,520 but could return to its original shape. 219 00:15:34,560 --> 00:15:37,200 There was nothing quite like it. 220 00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:41,880 Rubber very quickly became 221 00:15:41,920 --> 00:15:45,120 one of the most in-demand products in the world. 222 00:15:45,160 --> 00:15:48,480 Malaysia turned out to be one of the best places to grow rubber, 223 00:15:48,520 --> 00:15:50,240 and, within a few years, 224 00:15:50,280 --> 00:15:53,240 was making more than a third of the world's supply. 225 00:15:54,520 --> 00:15:57,720 LIANG:The Ramsden family changed all this 226 00:15:57,760 --> 00:16:00,480 into a huge rubber plantation. 227 00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:03,960 Instead of travelling from Britain themselves, 228 00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:05,960 they hired managers to run the estates. 229 00:16:07,000 --> 00:16:10,000 This building was built in 1917 230 00:16:10,040 --> 00:16:11,920 to be the administration, 231 00:16:11,960 --> 00:16:15,000 and also the residence for the managers. 232 00:16:15,040 --> 00:16:16,760 One thing about the British, 233 00:16:16,800 --> 00:16:20,560 they also liked to build huge buildings, mansions like this, 234 00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:23,360 to show the power and the authority. 235 00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:25,000 So a grand building here 236 00:16:25,040 --> 00:16:29,120 would assert a kind of authority over the plantation workers. 237 00:16:30,200 --> 00:16:34,160 This was the jewel in the crown of the plantation, 238 00:16:34,200 --> 00:16:37,120 and it was called Caledonia House. 239 00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:43,040 For decades, demand for rubber continued to grow, 240 00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:45,520 and from their luxurious mansion, 241 00:16:45,560 --> 00:16:50,120 the Ramsden family's managers oversaw an increasingly diverse workforce. 242 00:16:52,920 --> 00:16:56,080 MEIGS:As the economy grew, it pulled in 243 00:16:56,120 --> 00:16:59,640 hundreds of thousands of immigrants from China and elsewhere, 244 00:16:59,680 --> 00:17:02,720 who mixed with the indigenous Malaysian population. 245 00:17:02,760 --> 00:17:05,640 ROSE:The family were raking in the cash. 246 00:17:05,680 --> 00:17:07,360 At the time, it was said to be 247 00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:11,040 the most valuable European holding in British Malaya. 248 00:17:11,080 --> 00:17:16,520 But this massive wealth was being watched jealously from overseas. 249 00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:21,600 And soon, war would bring disaster to Caledonia Plantation. 250 00:17:23,040 --> 00:17:25,640 On December the 8th 1941, 251 00:17:25,680 --> 00:17:29,520 almost simultaneously with their attack on Pearl Harbor, 252 00:17:29,560 --> 00:17:32,400 the Japanese army invaded British Malaya. 253 00:17:33,640 --> 00:17:35,960 MEIGS:Malaya had enormous resources, 254 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:38,200 including these rubber plantations. 255 00:17:38,240 --> 00:17:41,840 Those were vital for Japan's military efforts. 256 00:17:43,600 --> 00:17:46,800 They swept through the country at lightening speed, 257 00:17:46,840 --> 00:17:48,200 and after just three months, 258 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:50,800 the unprepared British surrendered in Singapore. 259 00:17:52,440 --> 00:17:56,360 Caledonia was now under Japanese occupation. 260 00:17:56,400 --> 00:17:58,760 But the British would go to great lengths 261 00:17:58,800 --> 00:18:01,320 to regain control of the valuable colony. 262 00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:07,200 MEIGS:They needed to find help wherever they could, 263 00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:09,840 and in many countries, there were insurgent groups 264 00:18:09,880 --> 00:18:11,760 fighting the occupiers. 265 00:18:11,800 --> 00:18:15,400 Many of these groups were inspired by communist ideology, 266 00:18:15,440 --> 00:18:18,720 but the Allies decided to fund them 267 00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:21,040 and support them and give them weapons, 268 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:24,000 because they needed that help behind enemy lines 269 00:18:24,040 --> 00:18:26,960 to undermine the Japanese. 270 00:18:28,760 --> 00:18:34,520 With the communists' help, Japan was finally defeated in 1945. 271 00:18:34,560 --> 00:18:36,880 But when Britain returned to Malaya, 272 00:18:36,920 --> 00:18:39,360 these guerrilla fighters switched their focus 273 00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:41,600 from one colonial oppressor to another. 274 00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:45,000 LIANG:The British wanted these guerrillas 275 00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:46,440 to surrender their weapons, 276 00:18:46,480 --> 00:18:51,080 but they wanted to liberate Malaya from the British control. 277 00:18:51,120 --> 00:18:54,560 So they actually started a war again. 278 00:18:55,600 --> 00:18:58,840 To these insurgents, families like the Ramsdens 279 00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:02,240 were the ultimate symbol of colonial exploitation. 280 00:19:03,360 --> 00:19:06,120 In the face of this growing armed resistance, 281 00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,040 there was still money to be made, 282 00:19:08,080 --> 00:19:11,920 and the Ramsden family returned to the ruins of Caledonia. 283 00:19:13,600 --> 00:19:15,480 SELWOOD:The patriarch of the family 284 00:19:15,520 --> 00:19:18,560 sent his son John to repair the estate. 285 00:19:19,720 --> 00:19:22,920 He went right to work, getting the rubber trees planted, 286 00:19:22,960 --> 00:19:28,000 and the latex harvested, and just putting things right. 287 00:19:28,040 --> 00:19:30,560 SELWOOD:He is said to have treated the plantation workers well, 288 00:19:30,600 --> 00:19:34,000 offering them lavish dinners at the house 289 00:19:34,040 --> 00:19:37,120 and having their children driven to school in his car. 290 00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:40,800 ROSE:But no matter how good 291 00:19:40,840 --> 00:19:43,240 his relationship with the workers might have been, 292 00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:46,280 at the end of the day, this was a colonial enterprise 293 00:19:46,320 --> 00:19:48,920 that was built on racism and inequality. 294 00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:52,760 Two years after John Ramsden arrived here, 295 00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:55,240 these tensions came to a head. 296 00:19:56,280 --> 00:19:59,200 LIANG:On the 8th of June 1948, 297 00:19:59,240 --> 00:20:02,600 it was a hot, steamy evening. 298 00:20:02,640 --> 00:20:04,720 John just finished his work. 299 00:20:04,760 --> 00:20:06,480 He was staying here alone. 300 00:20:06,520 --> 00:20:08,320 And he walked back, 301 00:20:08,360 --> 00:20:10,800 and he was about to climb up the stairs. 302 00:20:11,840 --> 00:20:14,640 Two gunshots were heard. Bang, bang! 303 00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:19,840 The estate watchman and three plantation workers 304 00:20:19,880 --> 00:20:22,000 heard the shots and rushed inside. 305 00:20:23,360 --> 00:20:29,080 And they all found John lying on this staircase 306 00:20:29,120 --> 00:20:31,120 with blood gushing out. 307 00:20:31,160 --> 00:20:34,920 And he died, right on this spot. 308 00:20:34,960 --> 00:20:36,600 When the police arrived, 309 00:20:36,640 --> 00:20:40,040 they began combing the mansion and its grounds for evidence. 310 00:20:41,720 --> 00:20:45,800 Outside, they found two spent shotgun shells 311 00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:47,640 underneath one of the rubber trees. 312 00:20:49,760 --> 00:20:53,080 MEIG:Very quickly, John Ramsden's murder 313 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:56,160 got connected with a much bigger story. 314 00:20:56,200 --> 00:20:58,440 Over the following couple of weeks, 315 00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:03,320 other overseers of plantations in Malaysia were also killed. 316 00:21:03,360 --> 00:21:05,960 And these killings were connected with 317 00:21:06,000 --> 00:21:08,720 the communist insurgency that was sweeping the islands. 318 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:14,120 The British planters were seen as their target, 319 00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:17,440 cos they represent the British authority 320 00:21:17,480 --> 00:21:20,080 exploiting the local workers. 321 00:21:20,120 --> 00:21:22,360 So there are some saying that yes, 322 00:21:22,400 --> 00:21:25,320 John was also murdered by these communist guerrillas. 323 00:21:26,600 --> 00:21:28,040 But William Haines, 324 00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:30,800 the police officer in charge of this investigation, 325 00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:34,760 was far from convinced that this was a political assassination. 326 00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:38,320 He believed evidence uncovered at the murder scene 327 00:21:38,360 --> 00:21:40,760 pointed towards an inside job. 328 00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:44,680 SELWOOD:Near the body, they found a pair of shoes 329 00:21:44,720 --> 00:21:47,960 that didn't seem to belong to anybody working at the residence. 330 00:21:49,240 --> 00:21:51,520 LIANG:They found out later these shoes belonged 331 00:21:51,560 --> 00:21:55,440 to a worker by the name of Mohammad Ramjan. 332 00:21:56,640 --> 00:21:58,720 ROSE:It seemed like an open and shut case, 333 00:21:58,760 --> 00:22:01,360 but he claimed he'd been framed. 334 00:22:01,400 --> 00:22:04,320 MEIGS:Another suspect was John Ramsden's driver, 335 00:22:04,360 --> 00:22:08,520 and it was said that Ramsden was having an affair 336 00:22:08,560 --> 00:22:11,080 with the driver's sister, 337 00:22:11,120 --> 00:22:13,840 so he might have had a powerful motive for the killing. 338 00:22:15,800 --> 00:22:19,520 Both Mohammad Ramjan and the driver were arrested. 339 00:22:20,560 --> 00:22:24,240 But with only circumstantial evidence implicating the pair, 340 00:22:24,280 --> 00:22:26,640 they were eventually released. 341 00:22:26,680 --> 00:22:29,640 On the 3rd of September 1948, 342 00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:32,360 87 days after John's murder, 343 00:22:32,400 --> 00:22:34,640 the investigation was called off. 344 00:22:35,880 --> 00:22:40,640 LIANG:So we're still wondering who actually killed Mr John Ramsden. 345 00:22:40,680 --> 00:22:42,600 It's still a big, big mystery. 346 00:22:44,000 --> 00:22:47,680 SELWOOD:Back in Britain, the Ramsden family were so heartbroken 347 00:22:47,720 --> 00:22:51,800 that they ordered the liquidation of all of their holdings in Malaya, 348 00:22:51,840 --> 00:22:54,320 including the Caledonia plantation. 349 00:22:55,760 --> 00:23:00,080 After a long and brutal insurgency against British rule, 350 00:23:00,120 --> 00:23:05,960 in 1963, the independent country of Malaysia was established. 351 00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:09,840 And Caledonia House was left to ruin. 352 00:23:14,120 --> 00:23:15,800 ROSE:After its abandonment, 353 00:23:15,840 --> 00:23:18,440 life for Caledonia House went from bad to worse. 354 00:23:19,800 --> 00:23:23,000 SELWOOD:In 2020, a fire ripped through the property, 355 00:23:23,040 --> 00:23:26,240 and later, a commercial crane working nearby 356 00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:29,200 tipped over and smashed through the roof. 357 00:23:30,240 --> 00:23:36,560 LIANG:Caledonia House has such a significant historical value 358 00:23:36,600 --> 00:23:40,120 that I hope people one day would be able 359 00:23:40,160 --> 00:23:42,720 to not only save it but restore the whole building 360 00:23:42,760 --> 00:23:45,840 and let us know more about the history of this place. 361 00:23:52,800 --> 00:23:54,520 In the French capital, 362 00:23:54,560 --> 00:23:59,240 a decaying compound holds secrets of an extraordinary deception. 363 00:24:05,840 --> 00:24:09,440 We're in the quiet outskirts of Paris, 364 00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:12,200 and, under this looming broadcast tower 365 00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:15,440 is a collection of buildings that look significantly older. 366 00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:18,520 This feels institutional, or perhaps military. 367 00:24:18,560 --> 00:24:22,880 But as you look closer, you notice something more sinister. 368 00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:26,120 WOMAN:Built into these walls are rows of casemates, 369 00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:29,400 but instead of windows, they have heavy iron bars. 370 00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:32,560 These were clearly repurposed as prison cells. 371 00:24:32,600 --> 00:24:34,480 But who were they keeping here? 372 00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:39,040 During the Second World War, thousands were detained here. 373 00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:41,360 But one man would escape these walls 374 00:24:41,400 --> 00:24:44,880 and do untold damage to the Nazi regime. 375 00:24:46,040 --> 00:24:49,480 NUSBACHER:He convinces British counterintelligence 376 00:24:49,520 --> 00:24:52,360 that he really is a German spy 377 00:24:52,400 --> 00:24:56,160 who is willing to be a double agent. 378 00:24:56,200 --> 00:24:59,520 MAN:He would become one of the most notorious spies 379 00:24:59,560 --> 00:25:01,440 of his entire generation. 380 00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:03,760 He was known as Agent Zigzag. 381 00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:13,520 Thomas Fontaine has spent decades 382 00:25:13,560 --> 00:25:17,120 uncovering the story of this decaying fortification. 383 00:25:20,200 --> 00:25:22,200 FONTAINE SPEAKING FRENCH: 384 00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:36,960 It was built in the 1830s 385 00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:40,760 as part of a ring of defences around Paris. 386 00:25:40,800 --> 00:25:44,040 But these days, it's not known for its protection of the city, 387 00:25:44,080 --> 00:25:46,440 but rather something far more menacing. 388 00:25:46,480 --> 00:25:49,320 NUSBACHER:In May and June of 1940, 389 00:25:49,360 --> 00:25:53,640 the German armed forces very rapidly encircled 390 00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:56,960 the French and British armies in northeastern France. 391 00:25:58,040 --> 00:26:00,920 The French state surrenders. 392 00:26:02,520 --> 00:26:04,360 Paris was under occupation. 393 00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:08,600 MAN:Here on the edge of the city was a valuable asset, 394 00:26:08,640 --> 00:26:10,760 and the Germans weren't gonna let that go to waste. 395 00:26:12,520 --> 00:26:15,400 The Nazi occupiers quickly transformed it 396 00:26:15,440 --> 00:26:20,040 from a place to keep enemies out into a facility to contain them. 397 00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:24,320 This is Fort de Romainville. 398 00:26:26,080 --> 00:26:28,480 FONTAINE, IN FRENCH: 399 00:26:40,960 --> 00:26:42,800 One of those inmates 400 00:26:42,840 --> 00:26:45,880 was an English petty criminal called Eddie Chapman. 401 00:26:46,920 --> 00:26:49,120 Eddie Chapman was a British criminal 402 00:26:49,160 --> 00:26:52,080 who led a lavish life in London, 403 00:26:52,120 --> 00:26:56,120 supported by the forging of cheques and burglary. 404 00:26:57,480 --> 00:27:00,600 In 1939, he was arrested and sent to prison in Jersey. 405 00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:03,320 In the summer of 1940, 406 00:27:03,360 --> 00:27:07,760 Germany invaded and occupied the Channel Islands, including Jersey. 407 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:10,360 Chapman was briefly released, 408 00:27:10,400 --> 00:27:14,040 but then rearrested on suspicion of working for the resistance. 409 00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:19,640 NUSBACHER: So, Chapman is sent to prison. 410 00:27:19,680 --> 00:27:23,240 And where is he sent to prison? Not in Jersey. 411 00:27:23,280 --> 00:27:27,560 They send him to France, they send him to Fort Romainville. 412 00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:31,280 FONTAINE, IN FRENCH: 413 00:27:36,120 --> 00:27:38,600 MITCHELL:There was no contact with the outside world, 414 00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:39,960 rations were strict, 415 00:27:40,000 --> 00:27:43,920 and prisoners could be executed without any explanation or warning. 416 00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:47,720 AUERBACH:Chapman realised he wasn't gonna survive this place, 417 00:27:47,760 --> 00:27:51,080 and, four months into his imprisonment, he found a lifeline. 418 00:27:54,240 --> 00:27:58,320 His salvation came from a shadowy Nazi organisation, 419 00:27:58,360 --> 00:28:02,640 the Abwehr, Germany's intelligence service. 420 00:28:02,680 --> 00:28:04,680 FONTAINE, IN FRENCH: 421 00:28:11,520 --> 00:28:13,680 NUSBACHER:From the beginning of the Second World War, 422 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:16,720 the Germans had tremendous difficulty 423 00:28:16,760 --> 00:28:21,240 recruiting agents in England. 424 00:28:21,280 --> 00:28:25,000 So the German intelligence people go to Chapman 425 00:28:25,040 --> 00:28:30,800 and they say, "Can you go and be a German agent?" 426 00:28:30,840 --> 00:28:34,120 Chapman accepts the German intelligence offer. 427 00:28:34,160 --> 00:28:38,040 And he's told that he needs to blow up 428 00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:42,920 the de Havilland aircraft factory in England. 429 00:28:44,240 --> 00:28:48,680 After some training in spy craft and a new nickname, Little Fritz, 430 00:28:48,720 --> 00:28:50,920 Chapman departed on his first mission. 431 00:28:52,520 --> 00:28:55,360 On the 16th of December 1942, 432 00:28:55,400 --> 00:28:58,320 Chapman parachuted into Britain. 433 00:28:58,360 --> 00:29:00,920 He was carrying a radio, a pistol, 434 00:29:00,960 --> 00:29:04,680 a cyanide pill and close to £1,000 in cash. 435 00:29:05,720 --> 00:29:09,040 On the morning of the 1st of February 1943, 436 00:29:09,080 --> 00:29:12,760 British newspapers reported an unexplained explosion 437 00:29:12,800 --> 00:29:15,160 at the de Havilland factory. 438 00:29:16,880 --> 00:29:20,240 NUSBACHER:As far as the Germans are concerned, 439 00:29:20,280 --> 00:29:23,720 this new agent of theirs, Mr Chapman, 440 00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:28,720 is now the great star of the German intelligence service. 441 00:29:30,680 --> 00:29:34,320 But he had been conning German intelligence from the very start. 442 00:29:36,160 --> 00:29:40,760 For Chapman, the idea of being able to get out of jail... 443 00:29:40,800 --> 00:29:43,840 Well, he'll do anything, won't he? 444 00:29:43,880 --> 00:29:46,600 And as soon as he gets on the ground, 445 00:29:46,640 --> 00:29:48,920 as soon as he has a chance, 446 00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:54,480 he tells British counterintelligence what he is up to. 447 00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:59,360 So, in order to build his credibility, 448 00:29:59,400 --> 00:30:02,240 the British armed forces 449 00:30:02,280 --> 00:30:07,080 simulate the destruction of the de Havilland factory. 450 00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:12,360 They arrange the fake sabotage of the airplane plant 451 00:30:12,400 --> 00:30:17,440 using an illusionist and a planted story in the newspaper. 452 00:30:17,480 --> 00:30:20,360 Nazi intelligence bought the lie. 453 00:30:21,480 --> 00:30:23,360 Chapman returned to Germany under the guise 454 00:30:23,400 --> 00:30:25,520 of having pulled off a successful attack. 455 00:30:26,560 --> 00:30:29,880 He was given a massive payment and the Iron Cross, 456 00:30:29,920 --> 00:30:33,320 the only British citizen ever to receive the award. 457 00:30:35,640 --> 00:30:38,600 Believing he was their best agent, 458 00:30:38,640 --> 00:30:41,280 he was soon tasked with a new mission. 459 00:30:41,320 --> 00:30:45,160 MITCHELL:Chapman was parachuted again into Britain in June of 1944 460 00:30:45,200 --> 00:30:48,400 to report on the accuracy of the V-1 and V-2 rockets 461 00:30:48,440 --> 00:30:50,640 being fired across the Channel. 462 00:30:50,680 --> 00:30:55,040 NUSBACHER:He tells his British controllers what the job is, 463 00:30:56,080 --> 00:30:58,800 and British counterintelligence 464 00:30:58,840 --> 00:31:03,640 calculate exactly how wrong 465 00:31:03,680 --> 00:31:07,280 they want the German aim to be. 466 00:31:07,320 --> 00:31:09,600 Chapman was one of the most successful double agents 467 00:31:09,640 --> 00:31:11,440 of the entire war. 468 00:31:11,480 --> 00:31:16,840 In November 1944, he was dismissed by British intelligence 469 00:31:16,880 --> 00:31:20,000 and continued his civilian life in London. 470 00:31:20,040 --> 00:31:24,520 By this time, the French prison where he had been recruited by the Nazis 471 00:31:24,560 --> 00:31:26,720 had been transformed. 472 00:31:26,760 --> 00:31:30,320 It was now a transit camp for French resistance fighters. 473 00:31:33,120 --> 00:31:35,400 SPEAKING FRENCH 474 00:31:43,560 --> 00:31:48,000 Before they left, they were held in the fort's dank casemates. 475 00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:51,160 FONTAINE, SPEAKING FRENCH: 476 00:32:03,480 --> 00:32:07,120 These were the last records many of these people would leave behind. 477 00:32:08,920 --> 00:32:12,240 More than 3,800 women were detained here 478 00:32:12,280 --> 00:32:15,360 before they were sent to Nazi concentration camps. 479 00:32:16,720 --> 00:32:19,720 Fort de Romainville was finally liberated 480 00:32:19,760 --> 00:32:23,240 by the Allies in August 1944, 481 00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:27,160 and it was abandoned by the French military in the early 2000s. 482 00:32:29,960 --> 00:32:32,520 After his dismissal by British intelligence, 483 00:32:32,560 --> 00:32:36,480 Eddie Chapman continued living life on his own terms, 484 00:32:36,520 --> 00:32:39,960 spending his time in the company of glamorous women, 485 00:32:40,000 --> 00:32:43,600 and becoming embroiled in a gold smuggling operation. 486 00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:52,480 Since 1945, Parisians have held ceremonies here 487 00:32:52,520 --> 00:32:56,440 to remember those imprisoned and deported from Romainville. 488 00:32:56,480 --> 00:33:01,840 Plans are underway to transform parts of the fort into a museum. 489 00:33:04,640 --> 00:33:06,760 FONTAINE, SPEAKING FRENCH: 490 00:33:23,760 --> 00:33:28,440 In the US state of Pennsylvania is a faded landmark, 491 00:33:28,480 --> 00:33:32,280 once the life and soul of an uptown district. 492 00:33:36,240 --> 00:33:38,360 MAN:We're on the north side of Philadelphia, 493 00:33:38,400 --> 00:33:41,280 on a busy road flanked by offices and shops. 494 00:33:42,720 --> 00:33:45,760 WOMAN:One building along this strip stands out, 495 00:33:45,800 --> 00:33:48,120 and it looks like it's from a different era. 496 00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:49,640 ROSE:From its design, 497 00:33:49,680 --> 00:33:52,840 with its ornate brickwork and detailed carvings, 498 00:33:52,880 --> 00:33:55,760 you can tell that this was a building of importance 499 00:33:55,800 --> 00:33:57,720 to the surrounding community. 500 00:33:57,760 --> 00:33:59,720 WOMAN:There remains part of a marquee 501 00:33:59,760 --> 00:34:01,800 with the word "Uptown" written on it. 502 00:34:01,840 --> 00:34:06,440 This was clearly some type of theatre or music venue. 503 00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:11,560 Inside, the true extent of its ruin becomes clear. 504 00:34:11,600 --> 00:34:14,600 ROSE:In the main room, there's a dramatic sight. 505 00:34:14,640 --> 00:34:17,320 A gaping hole in the roof lets in enough light 506 00:34:17,360 --> 00:34:19,920 to illuminate a huge open space. 507 00:34:20,960 --> 00:34:25,920 You can make out dozens of rows of seats facing an elevated stage. 508 00:34:27,160 --> 00:34:28,960 MAN:This may look forgotten now, 509 00:34:29,000 --> 00:34:31,680 but in its heyday, this was part of a network 510 00:34:31,720 --> 00:34:34,480 that spanned the whole of the East Coast 511 00:34:34,520 --> 00:34:38,480 and fostered some of the greatest entertainers of the 20th century. 512 00:34:39,680 --> 00:34:42,360 ROSE:Ray Charles, James Brown, Jackson Five, 513 00:34:42,400 --> 00:34:46,080 this place played host to the Who's Who of American icons. 514 00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:49,040 WOMAN:But this wasn't just a place for entertainment, 515 00:34:49,080 --> 00:34:51,120 it was also a place for activism. 516 00:34:55,800 --> 00:34:59,600 Wow. I haven't been here since the '70s. 517 00:34:59,640 --> 00:35:01,120 It's amazing. 518 00:35:03,160 --> 00:35:06,120 My mom worked here as a cashier. 519 00:35:06,160 --> 00:35:09,720 I wasn't allowed in the booth, because she was handling money. 520 00:35:10,760 --> 00:35:13,480 From the age of 14, Olivia Riley 521 00:35:13,520 --> 00:35:17,440 spent many of her evenings and weekends in this theatre. 522 00:35:18,640 --> 00:35:20,920 I was kind of famous... LAUGHS 523 00:35:20,960 --> 00:35:23,360 ..because everybody knew she was my mother. 524 00:35:23,400 --> 00:35:26,800 They kind of hung around me 525 00:35:26,840 --> 00:35:28,920 because they can get in for free. 526 00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:31,920 It was a lot of excitement, 527 00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:35,240 because you were lookin' forward to seein' all the acts. 528 00:35:35,280 --> 00:35:38,680 They were all up-and-coming and famous artists. 529 00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:41,720 From its earliest days, 530 00:35:41,760 --> 00:35:44,160 this was the cultural heart of the neighbourhood. 531 00:35:45,200 --> 00:35:47,240 It was built in the late 1920s, 532 00:35:47,280 --> 00:35:50,200 an era of rapid expansion in the city. 533 00:35:50,240 --> 00:35:52,000 JAZZ MUSIC PLAYING 534 00:35:52,040 --> 00:35:54,000 Philadelphia was one of the most important 535 00:35:54,040 --> 00:35:55,880 manufacturing centres in the world. 536 00:35:57,040 --> 00:35:59,600 WOMAN:Factories and warehouses dotted this area, 537 00:35:59,640 --> 00:36:02,520 and soon neighbourhoods of row homes were built 538 00:36:02,560 --> 00:36:05,080 in order to accommodate the workers. 539 00:36:05,120 --> 00:36:06,760 ROSE:As newcomers poured in, 540 00:36:06,800 --> 00:36:09,480 there was an increase in demand for entertainment venues. 541 00:36:10,520 --> 00:36:13,160 On the 16th of February 1929, 542 00:36:13,200 --> 00:36:15,600 Warner Brothers Studios opened 543 00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:18,880 the lavish 2,000 seat Uptown Theatre. 544 00:36:18,920 --> 00:36:22,520 ROSE:They spared no expense. It had terracotta facades, 545 00:36:22,560 --> 00:36:24,880 stained-glass windows and velvet seats. 546 00:36:24,920 --> 00:36:28,920 MAN:This was a luxurious way to watch movies for everyone, 547 00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:30,960 from the city's wealthy industrialists 548 00:36:31,000 --> 00:36:32,720 to working-class families. 549 00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:36,960 On its opening night, 550 00:36:37,000 --> 00:36:41,400 crowds flocked to see On Trial starring Pauline Frederick. 551 00:36:41,440 --> 00:36:43,480 It was the perfect choice 552 00:36:43,520 --> 00:36:46,760 to showcase the Uptown's cutting-edge design. 553 00:36:49,440 --> 00:36:53,360 BELL:Hollywood was riding high on the success of silent films, 554 00:36:53,400 --> 00:36:56,280 and the Warner Brothers Studio decided to take a gamble 555 00:36:56,320 --> 00:36:59,040 on a revolutionary new development, 556 00:36:59,080 --> 00:37:01,400 speaking films, known as talkies. 557 00:37:02,440 --> 00:37:05,960 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE:This theatre was specifically wired for sound. 558 00:37:06,000 --> 00:37:09,200 The audio quality here was second to none. 559 00:37:10,240 --> 00:37:12,560 It seemed destined for success, 560 00:37:12,600 --> 00:37:15,280 but just eight months after it opened, 561 00:37:15,320 --> 00:37:18,280 the country was struck by disaster. 562 00:37:18,320 --> 00:37:20,640 The Wall Street Crash. 563 00:37:21,760 --> 00:37:24,360 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE:This recession resulted in the collapse 564 00:37:24,400 --> 00:37:27,880 of most of Philadelphia's manufacturing industry, 565 00:37:27,920 --> 00:37:30,400 and over the next few decades, 566 00:37:30,440 --> 00:37:33,520 many of its residents fled to the suburbs. 567 00:37:33,560 --> 00:37:36,040 But a change was coming to this neighbourhood 568 00:37:36,080 --> 00:37:38,080 that would give it a second life 569 00:37:38,120 --> 00:37:40,680 and a brush with stardom. JAZZ MUSIC PLAYING 570 00:37:40,720 --> 00:37:45,480 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE:In 1952, theatre mogul Samuel H Stiefel 571 00:37:45,520 --> 00:37:48,880 bought the Uptown with plans to completely repurpose it. 572 00:37:49,960 --> 00:37:52,840 BELL:By this time, with migration from Southern states, 573 00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:56,120 North Philadelphia had become a vibrant hub 574 00:37:56,160 --> 00:37:58,400 of African-American culture and arts. 575 00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:01,240 ROSE:It had incredible acoustics 576 00:38:01,280 --> 00:38:03,240 left over from its days as a movie theatre, 577 00:38:03,280 --> 00:38:05,320 and Stiefel saw an opportunity 578 00:38:05,360 --> 00:38:08,200 to put it to new use as a music venue. 579 00:38:08,240 --> 00:38:09,880 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE: But the Uptown Theatre 580 00:38:09,920 --> 00:38:11,680 wasn't the only one of its kind. 581 00:38:11,720 --> 00:38:13,840 Rather, it was part of a circuit 582 00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:16,120 that stretched across the entire East Coast. 583 00:38:16,160 --> 00:38:18,880 Along with the Apollo in New York, 584 00:38:18,920 --> 00:38:21,840 and the Howard Theatre in Washington DC, 585 00:38:21,880 --> 00:38:25,480 and the Regal in Chicago, and many others, 586 00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:28,240 this made up what was called the Chitlin' Circuit. 587 00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:31,680 RILEY:Because of racism, African-American acts 588 00:38:31,720 --> 00:38:34,560 couldn't perform in certain areas, 589 00:38:34,600 --> 00:38:36,600 so they would do the Chitlin' Circuit. 590 00:38:37,640 --> 00:38:41,400 BELL:The Chitlin' Circuit gave so many Black entertainers a chance 591 00:38:41,440 --> 00:38:43,160 during the era of Jim Crow, 592 00:38:43,200 --> 00:38:46,320 when they were barred from white mainstream venues. 593 00:38:46,360 --> 00:38:48,600 This stage would play host 594 00:38:48,640 --> 00:38:52,080 to some of the era's most legendary Black performers. 595 00:38:52,120 --> 00:38:56,200 I saw every show at least two times. 596 00:38:56,240 --> 00:38:57,960 I didn't miss a show. 597 00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:00,680 I saw the Jackson Five, 598 00:39:00,720 --> 00:39:01,960 James Brown, 599 00:39:02,000 --> 00:39:04,360 Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes 600 00:39:04,400 --> 00:39:08,240 and Marvin Gaye, I saw him so many times. 601 00:39:08,280 --> 00:39:12,000 But my favourite was the Isley Brothers 602 00:39:12,040 --> 00:39:14,240 because that was a part of history. 603 00:39:15,560 --> 00:39:19,520 At the end of their act they just started singing "Shout", 604 00:39:19,560 --> 00:39:23,720 and every time they sang "Shout!" they'd jump, 605 00:39:23,760 --> 00:39:27,640 everybody in the audience would jump, it was electrifying. 606 00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:32,560 Ron Isley created that song, that night that I was here. 607 00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:35,880 ROSE:These acts would come for a few days, or even a week, 608 00:39:35,920 --> 00:39:37,560 playing shows around the clock 609 00:39:37,600 --> 00:39:40,280 for a ticket price as low as 50 cents. 610 00:39:40,320 --> 00:39:43,920 That's still only a little more than five bucks in today's money. 611 00:39:43,960 --> 00:39:46,360 BELL:On Saturdays, sometimes, 612 00:39:46,400 --> 00:39:49,440 they'd even do five or six shows back-to-back. 613 00:39:51,640 --> 00:39:56,640 Tens of thousands of people came through this auditorium in the 1960s, 614 00:39:56,680 --> 00:39:58,840 and the theatre gained a reputation 615 00:39:58,880 --> 00:40:01,440 as one of the country's most iconic venues. 616 00:40:02,480 --> 00:40:06,160 If there was one man responsible for a lot of the Uptown's success, 617 00:40:06,200 --> 00:40:09,040 it was the promoter, Georgie Woods. 618 00:40:09,080 --> 00:40:13,600 RILEY:He had a nice voice, he had a beautiful personality 619 00:40:13,640 --> 00:40:17,160 and he captured a lot of people's attention, 620 00:40:17,200 --> 00:40:22,480 he drew a big crowd, so they made him the MC. 621 00:40:22,520 --> 00:40:25,520 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE:He was known for bringing in incredible performers 622 00:40:25,560 --> 00:40:27,680 at incredibly low prices. 623 00:40:27,720 --> 00:40:29,840 it was reported that he got the Supremes 624 00:40:29,880 --> 00:40:32,440 to play for ten days for $400. 625 00:40:34,680 --> 00:40:39,640 But Woods was not just a radio DJ, MC and promoter. 626 00:40:39,680 --> 00:40:42,560 He was a passionate advocate for civil rights. 627 00:40:43,640 --> 00:40:49,440 In 1963, he helped charter 21 buses to take Philadelphians 628 00:40:49,480 --> 00:40:53,160 to Dr Martin Luther King Jr's historic march on Washington. 629 00:40:53,200 --> 00:40:54,760 CHEERING AND APPLAUSE 630 00:40:54,800 --> 00:40:58,880 That same year, he used the Uptown to support the cause. 631 00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:02,680 GUTIERREZ-ROMINE:Georgie Woods saw the Uptown Theatre 632 00:41:02,720 --> 00:41:06,600 not just as an entertainment venue, but as a vehicle for change. 633 00:41:08,080 --> 00:41:11,080 BELL:Woods began organising what he called freedom shows, 634 00:41:11,120 --> 00:41:13,240 fundraisers for civil rights organisations 635 00:41:13,280 --> 00:41:14,600 right across the country. 636 00:41:15,640 --> 00:41:19,400 These star-studded concerts provided much needed funds 637 00:41:19,440 --> 00:41:22,200 for charities and civil rights organisations. 638 00:41:23,240 --> 00:41:25,120 And Woods' contribution to the movement 639 00:41:25,160 --> 00:41:28,880 was soon recognised on the stage where it all began. 640 00:41:30,440 --> 00:41:33,000 He was even honoured by the NAACP 641 00:41:33,040 --> 00:41:35,560 in a ceremony held right here at the Uptown. 642 00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:39,800 But the success of the civil rights movement 643 00:41:39,840 --> 00:41:42,640 in ending segregation across the country 644 00:41:42,680 --> 00:41:46,720 would have unintended consequences for the Uptown Theatre. 645 00:41:48,800 --> 00:41:51,040 Some say that after integration, 646 00:41:51,080 --> 00:41:54,200 when Black performers could go to more venues, 647 00:41:54,240 --> 00:41:58,680 the importance of places like this on the Chitlin' Circuit declined. 648 00:42:00,720 --> 00:42:05,080 In 1972, Georgie Woods stopped producing shows here. 649 00:42:06,120 --> 00:42:08,280 And, as many residents left for the suburbs 650 00:42:08,320 --> 00:42:11,960 over the following years, its fate was sealed. 651 00:42:13,120 --> 00:42:17,160 RILEY:It closed because of the neighbourhood changing, 652 00:42:17,200 --> 00:42:19,280 I think that's what really happened. 653 00:42:20,720 --> 00:42:25,000 The Uptown Theatre finally shut its doors in 1978. 654 00:42:29,320 --> 00:42:34,120 In 2001, the Uptown Entertainment and Development Corporation 655 00:42:34,160 --> 00:42:35,880 purchased the building. 656 00:42:35,920 --> 00:42:40,880 They now hope to breathe new life into this ageing structure. 657 00:42:42,520 --> 00:42:46,040 RILEY:The plans is to get the Uptown renovated, 658 00:42:46,080 --> 00:42:48,440 restore it for the community. 659 00:42:48,480 --> 00:42:50,680 A lot of things happened here. 660 00:42:50,720 --> 00:42:52,560 The performers, they couldn't have made it 661 00:42:52,600 --> 00:42:55,200 unless they made it here at the Uptown. 662 00:42:55,240 --> 00:42:59,960 Everybody remembers coming here, so it should be open. 663 00:43:03,080 --> 00:43:05,080 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 55263

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