All language subtitles for anthony.bourdain.no.reservations.s01e01.paris.why.the.french.don_t.suck

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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:18,990 --> 00:00:20,750 See, this is the way I wanted the show to look. 2 00:00:21,390 --> 00:00:25,210 Black and white, reminiscent of those great flutist French films like Pablo 3 00:00:25,210 --> 00:00:31,890 Flambeau. You know, sort of unflappable, sort of sad, but fatalistic French 4 00:00:31,890 --> 00:00:32,890 hero. 5 00:00:33,590 --> 00:00:36,970 You know, every bad turn in life, just another throw of the dice. 6 00:00:37,190 --> 00:00:38,810 A shrug and a c 'est normal. 7 00:00:41,230 --> 00:00:45,110 But unfortunately, I've got a couple of big problems getting in the way of that 8 00:00:45,110 --> 00:00:46,530 show. First... 9 00:00:48,879 --> 00:00:51,840 Damn. Some Americans are starting to think the French suck. 10 00:00:52,240 --> 00:00:56,260 But I think we may be looking at them in the wrong way, and thus not allowing 11 00:00:56,260 --> 00:00:58,040 ourselves to experience the world. 12 00:00:59,940 --> 00:01:01,200 What's the second you asked? 13 00:01:01,900 --> 00:01:03,080 Unfortunately, this is television. 14 00:01:10,020 --> 00:01:16,500 I'm Anthony Bourdain. I write, I travel, I eat, and I'm hungry 15 00:01:16,500 --> 00:01:17,500 for more. 16 00:01:22,070 --> 00:01:23,350 Get lost! 17 00:01:25,590 --> 00:01:27,610 No reservations. 18 00:01:32,870 --> 00:01:35,530 New York to Paris. 19 00:01:35,790 --> 00:01:36,790 Seven hours. 20 00:01:37,130 --> 00:01:38,130 Welcome aboard. 21 00:01:38,510 --> 00:01:40,410 Welcome aboard the spacious cabin. 22 00:01:41,330 --> 00:01:43,870 This is the atmosphere on a jet -clipper flight. 23 00:01:44,310 --> 00:01:46,410 Delicious food adds to the enjoyment. 24 00:01:48,039 --> 00:01:50,160 Karen, right away you're in the swim of things. 25 00:01:50,660 --> 00:01:55,340 Because once more you've landed refreshed and with extra hours to do 26 00:01:55,340 --> 00:01:57,140 want to do in a leisurely way. 27 00:01:57,760 --> 00:02:01,500 Bullshit. The food was shockingly bad, even for an airplane. 28 00:02:01,700 --> 00:02:04,940 The seats, forget about it. I feel like I've been chained to a radiator all 29 00:02:04,940 --> 00:02:05,940 night. And now this? 30 00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:09,560 Listen, I don't see anybody waiting for me, okay? I've been waiting here an 31 00:02:09,560 --> 00:02:11,180 hour. I'm freezing my ass off. 32 00:02:11,760 --> 00:02:13,080 I'm going to end up taking a cab. 33 00:02:13,760 --> 00:02:15,640 All right? I'll talk to you when I get in. 34 00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:17,870 Where's the guy who was supposed to meet me here? 35 00:02:19,730 --> 00:02:20,730 Damn. 36 00:02:22,270 --> 00:02:26,290 I'm here, an American in Paris, to find supporting evidence for a deeply felt 37 00:02:26,290 --> 00:02:30,550 conviction. To make a difficult argument in these unpleasantly francophobic 38 00:02:30,550 --> 00:02:34,730 times. I call my thesis, Why the French Don't Suck. 39 00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:49,540 France needs me, I'm thinking, now more than ever. 40 00:02:49,840 --> 00:02:50,840 Why me? 41 00:02:50,900 --> 00:02:51,900 Because I'm a cook. 42 00:02:56,500 --> 00:02:57,940 Now, don't get me wrong. 43 00:02:58,620 --> 00:03:01,340 The last thing Paris needs is me slinging steak. 44 00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:07,880 But as a cook, I like to think that I recognize the true visionary glory of 45 00:03:07,880 --> 00:03:08,880 France. 46 00:03:09,550 --> 00:03:13,230 Hell, cooks may be the only people in America right now who can understand how 47 00:03:13,230 --> 00:03:14,510 far astray we've gone. 48 00:03:15,910 --> 00:03:18,810 Sure, the French are renowned for their culinary technique and invention. 49 00:03:19,150 --> 00:03:23,610 But even more crucial, more precious, is the sensual point of view behind it 50 00:03:23,610 --> 00:03:26,370 that drives not only their cuisine, but their entire existence. 51 00:03:27,290 --> 00:03:29,230 It may just save the world. 52 00:03:32,490 --> 00:03:33,550 So here I am. 53 00:03:33,810 --> 00:03:36,790 But where's this guy my French teacher was supposed to set me up with? 54 00:03:37,210 --> 00:03:40,470 I wonder if this has anything to do with my performance in class back in New 55 00:03:40,470 --> 00:03:41,470 York. 56 00:03:42,410 --> 00:03:45,070 Things didn't exactly get off to a smooth start. 57 00:03:45,870 --> 00:03:50,410 Comment dit -on, I have a hangover, please kill me? 58 00:03:50,950 --> 00:03:54,810 J 'ai une gueule de bois, s 'il vous plaît, tuez -moi. Tuez -moi. 59 00:03:55,050 --> 00:03:56,590 S 'il vous plaît, tuez -moi. 60 00:03:56,830 --> 00:03:58,230 S 'il vous plaît, tuez -moi. 61 00:04:00,740 --> 00:04:02,480 My French was a little rusty. 62 00:04:02,700 --> 00:04:06,280 Okay, a lot rusty. So I signed myself up for a refresher course. 63 00:04:06,720 --> 00:04:12,540 Pardon me, but your baguette is poking me in the genitals. 64 00:04:27,180 --> 00:04:32,400 You go to Paris, you're at the top of the Eiffel Tower, you eat, all the 65 00:04:32,400 --> 00:04:34,020 tourists go. It's a very good restaurant. 66 00:04:34,320 --> 00:04:37,640 It's a French restaurant for tourists. 67 00:04:38,440 --> 00:04:42,860 Listen, you're here to learn French, not to discuss the quality of restaurants, 68 00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:44,080 anyway. 69 00:04:48,159 --> 00:04:51,420 Okay, so how was I supposed to know this guy had a brother who works there? 70 00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,540 I'm not sure I impressed him with my command of the language. 71 00:04:59,800 --> 00:05:01,800 I mean, I did my best to apologize. 72 00:05:02,580 --> 00:05:05,720 After all I explained, I wanted to explore the Paris of locals. 73 00:05:06,500 --> 00:05:08,840 You know, show my countrymen why the French don't fuck. 74 00:05:09,900 --> 00:05:12,660 But I'm beginning to think that my guide is going to be a no -show. 75 00:05:13,790 --> 00:05:15,810 No problem. I'll do this on my own. 76 00:05:19,150 --> 00:05:20,790 Page 54 in the guidebook. 77 00:05:21,050 --> 00:05:23,170 Paris, France's 2 ,000 -year -old capital. 78 00:05:23,390 --> 00:05:27,470 The Eiffel Tower, Champs -Élysées, the Louvre, Notre -Dame. Check in your 79 00:05:27,570 --> 00:05:30,730 but get in line for the tower early after making dinner reservations in 80 00:05:31,750 --> 00:05:33,470 Wrong. Let's try that again. 81 00:05:43,180 --> 00:05:44,180 Ah, Paris. 82 00:05:45,180 --> 00:05:46,240 City of light. 83 00:05:47,480 --> 00:05:48,540 City of love. 84 00:05:50,100 --> 00:05:51,500 City of breakfast? 85 00:05:52,280 --> 00:05:53,280 Yes, please. 86 00:05:54,780 --> 00:05:58,540 The most important thing to do the instant you arrive in Paris is stop. 87 00:05:59,200 --> 00:06:03,600 Find someplace inviting and flip comfortably into the Parisian pace of 88 00:06:17,289 --> 00:06:21,590 The Royale, a typical neighborhood café in the 7th district, isn't going to 89 00:06:21,590 --> 00:06:22,750 attract a rush of tourists. 90 00:06:23,710 --> 00:06:27,610 But it's the kind of local place that's a mandatory staple in the daily routine 91 00:06:27,610 --> 00:06:28,610 of the Parisians. 92 00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:39,380 I mean, how come they're still in possession by a larger neck than 93 00:06:39,380 --> 00:06:41,220 short supply in my country? 94 00:06:42,020 --> 00:06:43,420 I mean, they eat so well. 95 00:06:43,860 --> 00:06:44,860 Duck fat. 96 00:06:45,000 --> 00:06:46,820 Cream. Butter. 97 00:06:49,100 --> 00:06:50,480 How do you explain this? 98 00:06:50,860 --> 00:06:53,980 These are typically French healthy breakfasts. 99 00:06:54,700 --> 00:06:59,760 All the essential components of a healthy breakfast. 100 00:07:00,100 --> 00:07:01,100 Orange juice. 101 00:07:01,580 --> 00:07:02,580 Coffee. 102 00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:09,520 Quite small, and of course... Buttery, flaky, offset with tarry, nicotine -y 103 00:07:09,520 --> 00:07:11,820 goodness. Remember, kids, cigarettes can kill. 104 00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:17,860 Let's face it, do you really need a Denny's grand final breakfast? A big 105 00:07:17,860 --> 00:07:22,260 pancakes, bacon, two fried eggs, home fries. And let's face it, home fries 106 00:07:22,260 --> 00:07:25,700 aren't that good anyway. Especially when you're looking forward to a monster 107 00:07:25,700 --> 00:07:26,700 -sized lunch. 108 00:07:27,340 --> 00:07:29,300 French dinners stretch out breakfast, too. 109 00:07:32,330 --> 00:07:33,890 Put in an hour doing this, easy. 110 00:07:34,950 --> 00:07:37,970 People watching, pet the dog, read the paper. 111 00:07:38,670 --> 00:07:41,770 Take those typical young French lads over there, for example. 112 00:07:42,070 --> 00:07:44,670 They have an appreciation for life in the moment. 113 00:07:44,990 --> 00:07:49,150 It's important to sit still, to take time, to notice the simple things. 114 00:07:53,130 --> 00:07:54,430 Damn, I think they made me. 115 00:07:57,650 --> 00:08:00,610 Oh yeah, they noticed me. Probably want my article. 116 00:08:01,770 --> 00:08:02,950 I'm published here, you know. 117 00:08:03,370 --> 00:08:05,550 I better leave before I get mobbed by fans. 118 00:08:08,950 --> 00:08:09,950 I'm big in France. 119 00:08:10,470 --> 00:08:14,510 Well, okay, not exactly Jerry Lewis big. Maybe Mickey Rourke big. 120 00:08:15,390 --> 00:08:16,390 Hasselhoff big? 121 00:08:31,050 --> 00:08:32,049 Now be careful. 122 00:08:34,490 --> 00:08:37,890 Since you've slowed down, you'll start to notice all sorts of things around 123 00:08:39,110 --> 00:08:45,370 Once you allow your senses to guide you and not your itinerary, you may begin to 124 00:08:45,370 --> 00:08:48,010 find pleasure in many things you would ordinarily overlook. 125 00:08:48,430 --> 00:08:52,490 The many sights, smells, and tastes on the streets of Paris. 126 00:08:54,550 --> 00:08:57,110 You try not to get run over while gawking at things. 127 00:08:57,370 --> 00:08:58,990 It's a dead giveaway you're an American. 128 00:09:00,670 --> 00:09:04,330 You are now ready to begin to graze through the wondrous sensual feasts that 129 00:09:04,330 --> 00:09:06,350 elude so many of us when we take trips here. 130 00:09:08,850 --> 00:09:13,650 But first, you'll need a base of operations, like a cool hotel haunted by 131 00:09:13,650 --> 00:09:16,030 ghost of the dead writer who drank too much absinthe. 132 00:09:17,050 --> 00:09:20,570 Allegedly, this illegal psychoactive beverage can still be found in certain 133 00:09:20,570 --> 00:09:23,030 quarters. I fully intend to investigate. 134 00:09:30,040 --> 00:09:33,000 Let's say you're like me. You're in Paris and you've undergone the necessary 135 00:09:33,000 --> 00:09:34,000 attitude adjustments. 136 00:09:34,580 --> 00:09:36,880 It helps to choose your accommodations wisely. 137 00:09:37,200 --> 00:09:38,440 Some place with character. 138 00:09:38,700 --> 00:09:42,040 Some place with history. In a cool neighborhood that looks good. 139 00:09:42,640 --> 00:09:45,700 Me, I always stay at L 'Hôtel in the Saint -Germain -des -Prés. 140 00:09:46,100 --> 00:09:50,140 A very discreet joint known for being a love shack to the tragically hip for 141 00:09:50,140 --> 00:09:54,360 ages. Even more importantly, it has the necessary distinction of having had 142 00:09:54,360 --> 00:09:55,660 famous people die there. 143 00:09:56,300 --> 00:09:59,940 In 1900, author Oscar Wilde kicked the bucket in room 15. 144 00:10:00,940 --> 00:10:02,760 The same room I'm staying in, in fact. 145 00:10:03,720 --> 00:10:08,340 This was his last base of operations for a legendary three -year bender that 146 00:10:08,340 --> 00:10:09,340 ended badly. 147 00:10:09,620 --> 00:10:12,660 Oh well, I fully intend to honor Oscar Wilde's good example. 148 00:10:13,020 --> 00:10:14,560 But first, a little shut -eye. 149 00:10:19,620 --> 00:10:20,620 Okay, 150 00:10:23,160 --> 00:10:25,280 first, leave your guidebook in your hotel. 151 00:10:25,640 --> 00:10:26,760 It's very unfresh. 152 00:10:27,240 --> 00:10:29,440 Pleasure is found in unexpected places. 153 00:10:29,980 --> 00:10:31,160 Just let it happen. 154 00:10:31,700 --> 00:10:36,080 I feel, not unusually for me, a natural compulsion to seek out the dark side, 155 00:10:36,260 --> 00:10:38,760 the forbidden, which is to say, the good stuff. 156 00:10:39,060 --> 00:10:41,120 I need a drink. 157 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:45,960 This place looks strangely familiar. I like my kind of place. 158 00:10:46,860 --> 00:10:51,040 Follow your instincts. That's what I always say. What could possibly go 159 00:10:59,870 --> 00:11:00,870 A whiskey? 160 00:11:01,910 --> 00:11:02,910 American? 161 00:11:04,470 --> 00:11:05,710 My accent give me away? 162 00:11:06,950 --> 00:11:07,950 Pretty easily. 163 00:11:08,530 --> 00:11:10,010 It's an absence sound. 164 00:11:13,100 --> 00:11:17,120 Really? Yeah. This is the beverage that allegedly drove people insane into 165 00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:20,760 dissipation, suicide, despair, and murder? 166 00:11:20,960 --> 00:11:22,020 Yeah, a fun drink. 167 00:11:22,280 --> 00:11:23,280 Oh, cool. 168 00:11:23,380 --> 00:11:25,740 Yeah, I always make good bars. What's your name, man? 169 00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:30,120 Peter. Tommy. Nice to meet you. I do the Nouveau Orleans. 170 00:11:31,080 --> 00:11:32,080 Absinthe. 171 00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:36,640 This is the legendarily destructive beverage tasting of licorice and exotic 172 00:11:36,640 --> 00:11:37,640 aromatics. 173 00:11:39,790 --> 00:11:44,450 Its bizarre, heroin -like ritual involving sugar and water not only 174 00:11:44,450 --> 00:11:46,690 flavor, but results in a strange outcome. 175 00:11:48,090 --> 00:11:51,670 With a change in color comes the release of the so -called Green Fairy. 176 00:11:52,390 --> 00:11:56,750 Then, reputedly, a seductive fog of hallucinations caused by the 177 00:11:56,750 --> 00:11:57,910 toxin in Wormwood. 178 00:11:58,470 --> 00:12:02,410 It supposedly caused a whole generation of writers and artists to succumb to 179 00:12:02,410 --> 00:12:03,570 madness and death. 180 00:12:04,230 --> 00:12:06,630 It's still illegal to this day in the U .S. 181 00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:10,400 When did the notion get to take hold that this was dangerous and unusual 182 00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:14,300 It was toward the end of the 19th century. 183 00:12:15,140 --> 00:12:20,100 Between 1880 and 1910, you have what they called a collective binge. 184 00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:23,420 Because it's just too damn easy to drink. 185 00:12:23,740 --> 00:12:28,000 And that's where the spoon comes in with the sugar, because when you add sugar 186 00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:30,960 to absinthe, you sense the alcohol in it even less. 187 00:12:31,540 --> 00:12:35,700 Because... Absinthe was so high in alcohol, it was considered to be the bad 188 00:12:35,700 --> 00:12:39,300 of all of them. So, what about the hallucinations? The madness? 189 00:12:39,520 --> 00:12:41,680 Was it just garden variety alcoholism? 190 00:12:42,220 --> 00:12:45,020 It does have a chemical in it which can cause epileptic fits. 191 00:12:45,220 --> 00:12:48,160 But the amount that you have to take is equivalent to somewhere around 200 192 00:12:48,160 --> 00:12:50,780 glasses. I think we will fall well short of that. 193 00:12:50,980 --> 00:12:51,980 All right. 194 00:12:55,720 --> 00:12:58,520 Oh, yeah, I see the problem. It's like drinking lemonade, basically. 195 00:12:58,780 --> 00:13:01,360 You're looking at about 20%, 25 % alcohol. 196 00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:05,940 Tomorrow, as I wake up in a pool of my own vomit, the first words out of my 197 00:13:05,940 --> 00:13:07,420 mouth will be, Mmm, licorice. 198 00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:10,640 At least you'll have nice breath. 199 00:13:12,890 --> 00:13:13,890 That's so important. 200 00:13:14,030 --> 00:13:16,030 You can't say that with tequila in the morning. 201 00:13:16,350 --> 00:13:18,950 Yeah. Are there still original bottles around? 202 00:13:19,250 --> 00:13:23,030 It's very, very difficult to find, but I happen to have a couple of them. 203 00:13:23,350 --> 00:13:24,350 Oh, really? 204 00:13:24,490 --> 00:13:25,490 I do. 205 00:13:26,590 --> 00:13:31,430 As it turns out, this guy Peter is an artisanal absinthe distiller. 206 00:13:32,330 --> 00:13:35,350 He explains he can buy absinthe in stores all over France. 207 00:13:35,950 --> 00:13:37,650 Well, not all absinthe. 208 00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:42,260 He takes me to a friend's shop to try a bottle of the original old stuff, which 209 00:13:42,260 --> 00:13:43,900 is still illegal even in France. 210 00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:48,180 This is a bottle that dates from about 1910. 211 00:13:49,540 --> 00:13:55,060 Now, is this technically legal? The product that we have in the bottle there 212 00:13:55,060 --> 00:13:56,180 technically not legal. 213 00:13:56,580 --> 00:14:01,080 European laws only allow newly produced absinthe. The old stuff keeps its bad 214 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:02,500 reputation. Cool. 215 00:14:02,700 --> 00:14:04,960 Breaking the law. Breaking the law. Okay, I'm psyched. 216 00:14:06,420 --> 00:14:10,020 First of all, you're going to see that the color is a nice kind of deep amber, 217 00:14:10,220 --> 00:14:13,320 almost a whiskey color, but originally that absence was green. 218 00:14:14,920 --> 00:14:19,020 A fog is formed in the absence when the water mixes with its essential oils. 219 00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:22,720 It will start from the bottom of the glass and then work its way up. 220 00:14:23,180 --> 00:14:26,260 This is what gave rise to the idea of the fairy leaving the drink. 221 00:14:28,380 --> 00:14:30,680 I don't know why, I suddenly feel like I have to go to the bathroom. 222 00:14:36,740 --> 00:14:37,740 Nice and strong. 223 00:14:37,900 --> 00:14:38,940 It's not bitter at all. 224 00:14:39,200 --> 00:14:43,800 Light, herbal flavors are mixed with more earthy ones like anise and fennel. 225 00:14:44,020 --> 00:14:45,020 It's a happiness. 226 00:14:49,260 --> 00:14:56,240 Eight or nine glasses of absinthe later, who was really counting anyway, I 227 00:14:56,240 --> 00:15:00,160 stumble out to find it raining. So I catch a taxi, an easy way to get around 228 00:15:00,160 --> 00:15:01,160 Paris. 229 00:15:02,760 --> 00:15:07,080 As the city outside the windshield becomes awash of color and light, I feel 230 00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:08,780 good. I feel really good. 231 00:15:10,060 --> 00:15:13,760 And I remember thinking something like, I feel a bit lightheaded. 232 00:15:14,080 --> 00:15:18,160 I wonder if it's the absinthe. Damn it, did I just think that or say it? 233 00:15:26,280 --> 00:15:27,900 Trouble sleeping back at the hotel. 234 00:15:31,500 --> 00:15:34,540 Maybe I shouldn't have drank so much absinthe. 235 00:15:41,160 --> 00:15:45,380 It occurs to me that I'm here just after the anniversary of Oscar Wilde's death. 236 00:15:46,680 --> 00:15:50,760 As he lay here dying, he said, my wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to 237 00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:52,840 death. One of us has got to go. 238 00:15:53,820 --> 00:15:55,760 Oscar was an absent thinker. 239 00:15:58,480 --> 00:15:59,480 Oscar? 240 00:16:02,780 --> 00:16:05,840 I'm starting to feel a little strange. 241 00:16:09,700 --> 00:16:12,280 Maybe I shouldn't have drank so much. 242 00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:13,660 Another 243 00:16:13,660 --> 00:16:26,320 great 244 00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:30,860 feature of Lotte, a basement pool, perfect for clearing your head. 245 00:16:31,920 --> 00:16:36,460 After bobbing around for 20 or 30 minutes and some quiet reflection, I 246 00:16:36,460 --> 00:16:38,160 know what will set me right. 247 00:16:38,770 --> 00:16:43,450 Tomorrow, a gargantuan meal at a hundred -year -old bistro. A typical Parisian 248 00:16:43,450 --> 00:16:44,450 lunch. 249 00:16:47,030 --> 00:16:48,030 What the? 250 00:16:48,810 --> 00:16:49,810 Hey, look out! 251 00:16:55,050 --> 00:16:57,770 I definitely need something to take the edge off. 252 00:17:05,470 --> 00:17:07,650 To the French, the senses are everything. 253 00:17:08,430 --> 00:17:12,349 They're almost the sole reason for human existence, and of particular importance 254 00:17:12,349 --> 00:17:13,670 is the sense of taste. 255 00:17:14,290 --> 00:17:17,589 Today, I hope to better explain the origins of this enlightened philosophy. 256 00:17:20,690 --> 00:17:23,270 That is, if my own senses aren't already too numb. 257 00:17:24,490 --> 00:17:27,109 Uh, isn't it supposed to be April when you come to Paris? 258 00:17:27,550 --> 00:17:30,530 See Tony, see Tony confused, standing around, breezy. 259 00:17:31,270 --> 00:17:33,450 You need a hot chocolate and a couple of flat chicks. 260 00:17:34,610 --> 00:17:35,610 I'm cold. 261 00:17:36,520 --> 00:17:40,720 Being determined to carry on, I decide to visit what I humbly consider to be 262 00:17:40,720 --> 00:17:44,820 of the most historically significant spots in all of Western civilization. 263 00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:05,540 So here we are, all that's left of Lael. 264 00:18:06,380 --> 00:18:10,600 once the thriving and rather incredible central marketplace of Paris. 265 00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:15,880 It was a groundbreaking, revolutionary development of centralizing the market 266 00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:21,320 into ales, or the closest word I can think of are pavilions, these vast 267 00:18:21,320 --> 00:18:25,560 iron and glass structures, each one dedicated to a different type of food. 268 00:18:25,560 --> 00:18:30,180 you'd have the meat pavilion, produce, hooves, guts, and snouts pavilion. I 269 00:18:30,180 --> 00:18:33,880 cannot describe to you how huge the original ales was. I mean, endless 270 00:18:33,880 --> 00:18:39,140 subcellars and underground vaults. Above ground, avenues would radiate out for 271 00:18:39,140 --> 00:18:40,140 horse -drawn carts. 272 00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:43,660 It would stretch all the way out into the countryside and beyond. 273 00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,460 Sola referred to it as the belly of Paris. 274 00:18:47,760 --> 00:18:50,400 Prior to that, by the way, it was where they lopped off the heads of the 275 00:18:50,400 --> 00:18:54,200 aristocracy on the guillotine. This was a big public square where hordes of 276 00:18:54,200 --> 00:18:57,340 hooting proletariat would watch the heads roll in the baskets. 277 00:18:58,440 --> 00:18:59,860 Those were happier times. 278 00:19:00,160 --> 00:19:05,020 You know, if Enron had existed back in the mid -18th century, they'd lop 279 00:19:05,020 --> 00:19:06,440 their... and heads off in public. 280 00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:10,980 You know, if you close your eyes, imagine you can almost hear the 281 00:19:10,980 --> 00:19:16,260 roar of the crowd as yet another royalist head falls off the guillotine 282 00:19:16,260 --> 00:19:17,260 rolls into the basket. 283 00:19:24,620 --> 00:19:28,760 Whether you've had a hard day chopping off heads or just slicing up beef, 284 00:19:28,760 --> 00:19:29,760 work up a mean appetite. 285 00:19:31,220 --> 00:19:34,080 So small bistros sprang up all around layout. 286 00:19:34,940 --> 00:19:37,060 Bistros like the 100 -year -old Chez Denise. 287 00:19:47,080 --> 00:19:50,920 Necessity is the engine that has driven all great cuisines throughout history. 288 00:19:51,180 --> 00:19:56,420 While the dumbass aristocracy was gorging itself on filet mignon lobsters, 289 00:19:56,420 --> 00:20:00,880 masses had to learn how to cook, how to take a chunk of neck or shank and turn 290 00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:04,870 it into something magical. And over pots of... Deeming economy cuts, they 291 00:20:04,870 --> 00:20:05,870 planned a revolution. 292 00:20:07,030 --> 00:20:10,830 Well, today at Chez Denise, they proudly continue the tradition of serving these 293 00:20:10,830 --> 00:20:12,350 historic blue -collar creations. 294 00:20:14,930 --> 00:20:21,810 I love my job. 295 00:20:21,910 --> 00:20:25,490 I'll drink a whole bottle and then we'll go terrorize Johnny Depp. So, dude, 296 00:20:25,570 --> 00:20:27,170 like, why'd you move to, like, France, man? 297 00:20:28,610 --> 00:20:30,170 I'm sure he'd appreciate that, don't you? 298 00:20:36,050 --> 00:20:37,150 Now look closely. 299 00:20:37,610 --> 00:20:40,290 When you're eating in France, you'll notice something different. 300 00:20:40,550 --> 00:20:45,130 It's a far cry from what we so often find ourselves doing, joylessly chawing 301 00:20:45,130 --> 00:20:47,270 our food like unappreciative doomed cattle. 302 00:20:49,050 --> 00:20:53,850 To the French, a meal is not just a meal. It means something. 303 00:20:56,930 --> 00:21:01,020 There's a dialogue between the chef, the dish, and the diner. 304 00:21:04,060 --> 00:21:07,000 There's a look of excitement as the food arrives, of anticipation. 305 00:21:07,820 --> 00:21:09,080 Food is important. 306 00:21:10,340 --> 00:21:12,060 It's part of their collective history. 307 00:21:13,820 --> 00:21:14,820 Voilà, mon ami. 308 00:21:15,140 --> 00:21:19,640 Look at this. This is lunch for work. Okay, this is like ginormous. So this is 309 00:21:19,640 --> 00:21:22,580 blanquette de veau, blanquette de veau blanc, meaning white. 310 00:21:22,820 --> 00:21:27,500 Look at those big hunks of veal, slowly, slowly cooked in either stock. 311 00:21:28,140 --> 00:21:32,360 or more often than not, water. The sauce is enriched with cream, sometimes egg. 312 00:21:32,640 --> 00:21:36,500 I'm guessing this recipe has basically not changed in over 100 years. 313 00:21:37,160 --> 00:21:38,620 Man, is that good. 314 00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:43,480 See, for me, this was the true and enduring glory of perhaps this kind of 315 00:21:43,840 --> 00:21:48,940 You know, the hell with painfully stacked towers of foie gras, food 316 00:21:48,940 --> 00:21:51,620 tormented into metal rings so it stands up stiff. 317 00:21:51,840 --> 00:21:55,660 If it takes the waiter longer to describe the dish than it takes me to 318 00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:56,940 something's wrong here. 319 00:22:26,860 --> 00:22:29,660 Oh, yeah, 320 00:22:30,860 --> 00:22:31,860 that's a ticket. 321 00:22:32,250 --> 00:22:33,229 12 .45. 322 00:22:33,230 --> 00:22:37,030 I've already eaten, like, by volume. It's like a small economy car. 323 00:22:37,850 --> 00:22:40,970 Half a bottle of wine, a fairly good portion of rum. 324 00:22:41,570 --> 00:22:46,790 I'm guessing that late in the afternoon, productivity levels declined slightly. 325 00:22:47,690 --> 00:22:51,250 Certainly by the time everyone drinks their digestif, because in France, they 326 00:22:51,250 --> 00:22:53,850 believe quite correctly that spirits aid digestion. 327 00:23:00,740 --> 00:23:01,740 Not bad. 328 00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:07,900 As I digest, my waiter, you know, mon ami, suggests that I might like to see 329 00:23:07,900 --> 00:23:11,340 their wine cellar. And the bartender insists that I climb down below the 330 00:23:11,340 --> 00:23:12,740 restaurant. Okay. 331 00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:14,080 Okay. 332 00:23:20,980 --> 00:23:25,140 There's a lot of folklore associated with a spot like this because a lot of 333 00:23:25,140 --> 00:23:26,140 underground walls. 334 00:23:26,360 --> 00:23:28,280 It's very, very old. Very old. 335 00:23:28,730 --> 00:23:32,210 We're talking like 1500s here, dude. In case of war, we can drink. 336 00:23:34,710 --> 00:23:36,290 Now that's French. 337 00:23:36,730 --> 00:23:40,910 And at a perfect 52 degrees year -round, all these rare bottles of wine will 338 00:23:40,910 --> 00:23:41,930 last indefinitely. 339 00:23:42,270 --> 00:23:45,530 But the ground below Paris has been used for more than wine storage. 340 00:23:46,310 --> 00:23:51,030 In the 1780s, it was overflowing with corpses. It got so bad, they moved the 341 00:23:51,030 --> 00:23:54,550 remains of millions of dead Parisians to underground quarries known as 342 00:23:54,550 --> 00:23:55,550 catacombs. 343 00:23:56,170 --> 00:23:57,170 It's Joan Rivers. 344 00:23:57,790 --> 00:24:00,470 Apparently, they missed a few. Lara Flynn Boyle. 345 00:24:05,570 --> 00:24:06,750 A garçon? 346 00:24:07,790 --> 00:24:08,830 A waiter? 347 00:24:09,470 --> 00:24:10,470 Denise? 348 00:24:11,270 --> 00:24:17,310 Something smells like... I'm in the sewers. 349 00:24:26,030 --> 00:24:28,330 I wonder if this has anything to do with me being American. 350 00:24:28,530 --> 00:24:31,170 I wonder if they're still pissed about the whole Freedom Fries thing. 351 00:24:32,710 --> 00:24:36,010 There's actually a group of people called the Cataphiles who wander around 352 00:24:36,010 --> 00:24:37,010 here for fun. 353 00:24:41,050 --> 00:24:46,610 There are over 1 ,300 miles of sewer tunnels, 124 miles of subway tracks, 185 354 00:24:46,610 --> 00:24:49,010 miles of catacombs filled with dead bodies. 355 00:24:51,990 --> 00:24:54,010 And they crisscross randomly. 356 00:24:55,980 --> 00:24:58,880 They say the Nazis built secret bunkers down here during the occupation. 357 00:25:08,840 --> 00:25:11,220 So, Paris is where? 358 00:25:19,660 --> 00:25:21,940 Ah, look, the entrance to the public sewer museum. 359 00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:27,480 Oh well, at least I'm up at the perfect hour to explore Rungis Market. That's 360 00:25:27,480 --> 00:25:29,300 the modern replacement for Layal. 361 00:25:30,260 --> 00:25:34,020 And it's game season, and that means fur, feathers, and fleece. 362 00:25:39,920 --> 00:25:43,620 After a night spent wandering witlessly through the ooze of the Parisian sewer 363 00:25:43,620 --> 00:25:47,600 system, I've emerged into that tranquil quiet between the retiring of the night 364 00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:51,580 owls and the rising of the morning workers, when all Paris sleeps. 365 00:25:52,220 --> 00:25:54,080 Unless, that is, you work in the food industry. 366 00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:59,560 Oh yeah, 5 .30 in the morning. Here we are, the romantic part of town. 367 00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:00,760 Rungis Market. 368 00:26:01,140 --> 00:26:03,880 The new belly of Paris, where the food comes from. 369 00:26:04,460 --> 00:26:08,480 This is the modern replacement for the historic but overburdened Layal Market. 370 00:26:09,020 --> 00:26:12,720 After hosing down, I get outfitted with the latest in mandatory meat market 371 00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:13,720 chic. 372 00:26:17,180 --> 00:26:19,120 Hi, I'm Anthony Bourdain for Scott Tissue. 373 00:26:19,340 --> 00:26:21,220 Triple fly baby for comfort. 374 00:26:21,770 --> 00:26:23,090 Don't have a square to spare? 375 00:26:23,290 --> 00:26:25,770 No problem with the latest Parisian fashion. 376 00:26:26,770 --> 00:26:28,730 I'm not a doctor, but I play one on TV. 377 00:26:29,110 --> 00:26:32,150 Where's my rubber gloves? I really feel like I should be going to nap. 378 00:26:32,770 --> 00:26:33,870 Turn left and cough. 379 00:26:37,890 --> 00:26:41,570 One of my constant complaints with my countrymen is that on vacation we so 380 00:26:41,570 --> 00:26:45,970 travel like sheep, blissfully allowing ourselves to be herded from location to 381 00:26:45,970 --> 00:26:47,550 location during prescribed hours. 382 00:26:48,450 --> 00:26:49,830 Never having meal fun. 383 00:26:50,270 --> 00:26:51,290 or seeing the real thing. 384 00:26:51,770 --> 00:26:55,270 But if you really want to understand the soul of a people, sometimes you just 385 00:26:55,270 --> 00:26:58,070 have to get up early and get away from the tour bun. 386 00:26:58,450 --> 00:27:01,750 The best place to do that is almost always the market. 387 00:27:01,970 --> 00:27:06,010 So when Lael closed, this became the new belly of Paris. This is the more modern 388 00:27:06,010 --> 00:27:07,030 version, essentially. 389 00:27:07,270 --> 00:27:11,010 Exactly. Pretty much set up the same way. You've got a lot of the same 390 00:27:11,010 --> 00:27:14,010 lot of the same families who've been there forever, and they just moved over 391 00:27:14,010 --> 00:27:14,949 here now. 392 00:27:14,950 --> 00:27:18,550 Louisa is a fellow cook currently working at a bunch of three -star joints 393 00:27:18,550 --> 00:27:21,450 in Paris and someone uniquely suited to show me around Rungy. 394 00:27:21,650 --> 00:27:25,970 The amazing thing is that they said that they pretty much closely all moved 395 00:27:25,970 --> 00:27:31,110 everything in one night. One night? We're talking 15 ,000 employees with 396 00:27:31,110 --> 00:27:35,530 millions of tons of food, occupying 1 .2 square miles. 397 00:27:35,790 --> 00:27:40,510 In France, food distribution is a calling. It better be fresh, it better 398 00:27:40,510 --> 00:27:43,370 good, and it better be furry. Wild boar. 399 00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:47,160 I'm shocked that it can come in still in the fur. 400 00:27:47,380 --> 00:27:48,940 Yeah? They look mean. 401 00:27:49,180 --> 00:27:51,220 Yeah. These guys will charge you, I'm told. 402 00:27:51,420 --> 00:27:54,940 You do not want one of these things gnawing on your calf or any other part 403 00:27:54,940 --> 00:27:55,559 your body. 404 00:27:55,560 --> 00:27:57,340 The fur means freshness. 405 00:27:57,920 --> 00:28:01,620 Has four legs, slower and stupider than you, and tastes reasonably good. 406 00:28:02,140 --> 00:28:03,380 It has the salt. 407 00:28:03,600 --> 00:28:07,420 I love how they package it for the holidays, you know. Let's put it this 408 00:28:07,460 --> 00:28:11,020 kids. If your presents are a little late this year, now you know why. 409 00:28:11,540 --> 00:28:13,720 Santa cut Rudolph's head off. 410 00:28:14,090 --> 00:28:15,090 Bad Santa. 411 00:28:15,350 --> 00:28:20,090 Okay, before I get 6 ,000 letters from animal rights activists, I humbly 412 00:28:20,090 --> 00:28:22,390 the French are much more respectful than we are. 413 00:28:23,450 --> 00:28:28,110 They don't waste here. They respect the ingredients. This is not factory farm 414 00:28:28,110 --> 00:28:29,110 food. 415 00:28:30,230 --> 00:28:32,350 I like the plumage. I know. 416 00:28:32,570 --> 00:28:33,570 Oh, yeah. 417 00:28:33,670 --> 00:28:34,790 Those are beautiful. 418 00:28:35,150 --> 00:28:38,930 Here, food is not something meant to be shrink -wrapped into anonymous parcels. 419 00:28:39,460 --> 00:28:41,400 identifiable only by pre -printed labels. 420 00:28:41,700 --> 00:28:45,220 It's something to be respected and celebrated for what it is. 421 00:28:49,540 --> 00:28:54,380 Really just here at the good time because it's really like... Right in the 422 00:28:54,380 --> 00:28:55,960 of game season. Exactly, exactly. 423 00:28:56,380 --> 00:28:59,120 We don't really have this kind of seasonality in American meat markets. 424 00:28:59,320 --> 00:29:02,600 You know, it's game season. Time to eat game. A lot of game. 425 00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:04,380 That's very French. 426 00:29:04,820 --> 00:29:06,800 You know, ye what's good when it's good. 427 00:29:07,460 --> 00:29:11,900 Pigeon. Little known fact, pigeons you see in New York, in your local park, 428 00:29:11,900 --> 00:29:15,900 originally imported to America as food. And they're quite delicious. 429 00:29:16,540 --> 00:29:17,540 I'm a little hungry. 430 00:29:18,160 --> 00:29:21,700 And I'm guessing that breakfast around here, I'm guessing meat is involved. 431 00:29:22,280 --> 00:29:23,840 I'm up for the roast beef sandwich. 432 00:29:24,040 --> 00:29:25,040 Okay, me too. 433 00:29:28,300 --> 00:29:31,940 Welcome to Butcherland, Paris' only all -meat worker bar in the fashionable 434 00:29:31,940 --> 00:29:32,980 Rungy's Market District. 435 00:29:33,400 --> 00:29:36,020 Open late till 9 a .m. Don't forget your bloody apron. 436 00:29:39,789 --> 00:29:43,590 Another prime example of eating what's good where it's good. 437 00:29:44,010 --> 00:29:47,070 We're in a gigantic warehouse full of premium meat. 438 00:29:49,190 --> 00:29:53,210 So, what do you think's on the breakfast menu? 439 00:29:53,570 --> 00:29:55,610 Oh yeah, that is the breakfast of champions. 440 00:29:56,110 --> 00:29:57,810 Cheers. Cheers. 441 00:30:00,410 --> 00:30:01,690 That's a healthy breakfast. 442 00:30:02,410 --> 00:30:03,550 You're fucking curious. 443 00:30:04,970 --> 00:30:08,470 See, this really is a mood improver, I've got to tell you. And I can use my 444 00:30:08,470 --> 00:30:09,470 jacket as a napkin. 445 00:30:10,170 --> 00:30:11,570 What's French about this room? 446 00:30:11,890 --> 00:30:15,170 Literally from the ground up, you know, the floor is like covered with cigarette 447 00:30:15,170 --> 00:30:20,470 butts. I mean, the fact that there is just such conviviality, you know. 448 00:30:20,750 --> 00:30:22,950 There's not much of a sense of urgency out there. 449 00:30:23,250 --> 00:30:25,370 But in here, they're freaking out. Where's my wine? 450 00:30:25,610 --> 00:30:26,630 Give me my sandwich. 451 00:30:27,390 --> 00:30:28,430 Drinking wine at... 452 00:30:30,000 --> 00:30:33,740 7 o 'clock in the morning. It is after work for most of these guys. Well, no, 453 00:30:33,800 --> 00:30:37,520 this is during work. I'm like, if I was a guy running one of the stalls out 454 00:30:37,520 --> 00:30:40,640 there, I'd be like, what are you doing in there drinking wine? But they're all 455 00:30:40,640 --> 00:30:43,740 totally cool about it, and they're probably in here with their bosses, and 456 00:30:43,740 --> 00:30:46,720 bosses probably realize that it's a good thing for them to have a glass of wine 457 00:30:46,720 --> 00:30:47,379 or two. 458 00:30:47,380 --> 00:30:48,179 Oh, yeah. 459 00:30:48,180 --> 00:30:52,580 The day stretches out before me in a much more favorable light now. 460 00:30:57,310 --> 00:31:00,370 Parisians understandably tend to get sentimental when thinking back on the 461 00:31:00,370 --> 00:31:01,430 original layout marketplace. 462 00:31:01,890 --> 00:31:04,050 But it did have a darker side. 463 00:31:04,450 --> 00:31:07,490 A nasty little problem that contributed to its demise. 464 00:31:09,310 --> 00:31:10,970 In a word, rats. 465 00:31:11,790 --> 00:31:12,930 Lots of rats. 466 00:31:16,210 --> 00:31:20,030 Hi, I'm Rocco Dispirito. I'd like to invite you to my new theme restaurant. 467 00:31:20,410 --> 00:31:23,630 Rat Kebab, Rat Zeroni, Rat Tattooie, and it's all here. 468 00:31:23,850 --> 00:31:25,050 Braised, broiled. 469 00:31:25,440 --> 00:31:29,100 Grilled. Be sure to drop by our all -you -can -eat mouse bar. You'll get your 470 00:31:29,100 --> 00:31:30,100 choice of dressing. 471 00:31:30,240 --> 00:31:33,080 And by the way, those aren't currants. Those are mouse droppings. 472 00:31:33,340 --> 00:31:35,320 Rocco's. Rats -a -rific restaurant. 473 00:31:35,620 --> 00:31:36,900 It's rat -a -licious. 474 00:31:43,540 --> 00:31:45,680 10 p .m. The Parisian dinner hour. 475 00:31:45,900 --> 00:31:46,900 And you're hungry. 476 00:31:47,320 --> 00:31:50,020 So, how do you begin to dine like they do? 477 00:31:50,760 --> 00:31:52,460 Stop playing by your own rules. 478 00:31:58,629 --> 00:32:00,310 It's a common traveler's dilemma. 479 00:32:00,810 --> 00:32:04,570 You hear about a local joint that you've just got to check out, and well, you 480 00:32:04,570 --> 00:32:08,370 hesitate. You don't have the thunk. It's not easy pushing your way through the 481 00:32:08,370 --> 00:32:09,610 front door of some new place. 482 00:32:12,670 --> 00:32:14,130 You don't know what waits for you. 483 00:32:15,070 --> 00:32:18,010 Is it going to be one of those cowboy moments where you walk in and everybody 484 00:32:18,010 --> 00:32:21,610 turns around and looks at you? You can't turn on your heels then and say, oop, 485 00:32:21,610 --> 00:32:23,330 wrong place and leave. 486 00:32:24,570 --> 00:32:25,570 You're in. 487 00:32:30,570 --> 00:32:35,110 But once in, especially in a place like Chez Robert and Louise, you're rewarded 488 00:32:35,110 --> 00:32:36,870 with a truly local experience. 489 00:32:40,990 --> 00:32:45,870 Sadly, Robert has passed away, but Madame Louise still quietly carries on 490 00:32:45,870 --> 00:32:48,710 many -year legacy of cooking home -style country food. 491 00:32:53,480 --> 00:32:57,960 I'm joined by my Parisian friend, Alex, just back from a trip abroad and hungry 492 00:32:57,960 --> 00:33:01,960 for a taste of home. Alex, is this an unusual arrangement? Is this type of 493 00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:03,320 place? Is this old school? 494 00:33:03,940 --> 00:33:08,220 It's old school. It's the bastion of French culinary tradition. 495 00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:11,600 I mean, it would be impossible to have a business like this in the States. A 496 00:33:11,600 --> 00:33:12,579 wood -burning fire. 497 00:33:12,580 --> 00:33:14,980 Illegal. The meat? Illegal. The dog? 498 00:33:15,360 --> 00:33:17,120 Illegal. The jeans sitting out uncovered? 499 00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:19,820 Illegal. Basically, everything that makes this place good. 500 00:33:20,040 --> 00:33:21,120 would be illegal in this state. 501 00:33:22,140 --> 00:33:26,600 It's always been the same, and it's just their simplicity and the traditional 502 00:33:26,600 --> 00:33:29,180 cuisine that they cook is the key to their success. 503 00:33:33,980 --> 00:33:37,820 Chefs play this game where they ask each other, what would be your last meal on 504 00:33:37,820 --> 00:33:38,799 death row? 505 00:33:38,800 --> 00:33:43,220 Almost always, the answer is something simple and hearty that mom made. 506 00:33:43,820 --> 00:33:47,930 Well... Here they serve what little French boys wanted for dinner. That is 507 00:33:47,930 --> 00:33:49,170 really sexy looking. 508 00:33:50,170 --> 00:33:55,330 This is boudin noir. It's basically a blood sausage made from pig's blood and 509 00:33:55,330 --> 00:33:56,330 onions. 510 00:33:57,130 --> 00:34:00,670 Crispy on the outside. And it's almost creamy in the center. 511 00:34:01,030 --> 00:34:04,450 Frightening to the uninitiated, but man, once you eat it, you're hooked. And 512 00:34:04,450 --> 00:34:06,970 this is fromage de tête, which is, well, head cheese. 513 00:34:07,250 --> 00:34:10,870 You basically cook your pig's head and you strip off all the meat, the tongue, 514 00:34:10,909 --> 00:34:13,650 everything. And you pack it into a tureen. 515 00:34:13,929 --> 00:34:15,949 with some aspic. There you go. 516 00:34:16,690 --> 00:34:19,630 Aspic is a clear meat jelly or gelatinized broth. 517 00:34:19,889 --> 00:34:21,909 This is seriously old school. 518 00:34:22,110 --> 00:34:26,150 You're not going to find this next to the jalapeno poppers at TGI McFunster's. 519 00:34:29,929 --> 00:34:33,030 Oh, good. 520 00:34:34,110 --> 00:34:39,290 It's basically a massive rib steak for two. 521 00:34:39,980 --> 00:34:43,540 And a little celery here, a little gray sea salt. 522 00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:47,159 I guess the potatoes are cooked with wheat grease. 523 00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:48,480 And that's the best. 524 00:34:48,840 --> 00:34:53,060 This is my idea of the perfect plate. In a wooden cutting board with a little 525 00:34:53,060 --> 00:34:54,699 gutter in it for the blood to run into. 526 00:34:54,960 --> 00:34:56,500 The whole plate should be like this. 527 00:34:57,580 --> 00:35:03,100 I love this whole notion of, you know, the dark street, no big sign, you know, 528 00:35:03,100 --> 00:35:06,900 curtains drawn out front, step inside your room, you're in another world. I 529 00:35:06,900 --> 00:35:08,540 mean, this is the way to eat. It's about food. 530 00:35:09,210 --> 00:35:10,970 Lucky to be born a Frenchman. 531 00:35:12,970 --> 00:35:13,970 Welcome to the booth. 532 00:35:14,290 --> 00:35:17,850 Sometimes you see the uninviting door and just have to go through it. 533 00:35:26,490 --> 00:35:27,490 3 a .m. 534 00:35:27,890 --> 00:35:28,890 What to do? 535 00:35:28,930 --> 00:35:29,930 What to do? 536 00:35:30,210 --> 00:35:33,750 Not quite ready to go back to the hotel and tangle with Oscar Wilde again. 537 00:35:34,550 --> 00:35:36,050 Let's see, who's up at this hour? 538 00:35:41,230 --> 00:35:42,890 I smell fresh bread bacon. 539 00:35:47,730 --> 00:35:48,730 Bacon. 540 00:35:49,750 --> 00:35:54,230 Is there anything more emblematic, more sinful to France's greatness than the 541 00:35:54,230 --> 00:35:58,030 appreciation of long, thin, crusty loaves of brilliantly made bread? 542 00:35:58,530 --> 00:35:59,530 The baguette. 543 00:35:59,950 --> 00:36:04,030 There's only two things wrong with bakers. One, I can't do what they do. 544 00:36:04,030 --> 00:36:05,970 two, they get up too damn early in the morning. 545 00:36:06,430 --> 00:36:09,270 The things to do, a good cup of coffee. 546 00:36:10,700 --> 00:36:12,200 My coffee is very bottom. 547 00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:20,760 Boulangers, that's bakers to you, live life in the shadows, toiling away in the 548 00:36:20,760 --> 00:36:21,760 pre -dawn hours. 549 00:36:21,900 --> 00:36:23,340 They're a passionate breed. 550 00:36:24,580 --> 00:36:27,520 Pascal Pinot is a prime example. 551 00:36:29,480 --> 00:36:33,720 Excuse me, I didn't take my medicine this morning. 552 00:36:33,920 --> 00:36:35,680 He has not taken his Valium. 553 00:36:36,020 --> 00:36:39,540 Pascal worked as a chef instructor at the world -renowned Cordon Bleu. 554 00:36:39,950 --> 00:36:43,490 left to open up a bakery with his brother, Jean -Marc. Jean -Marc is a 555 00:36:43,490 --> 00:36:48,310 businessman. A little bit he's the brain, and I am the hand. 556 00:36:49,890 --> 00:36:53,690 This is a man with a calling to make great pastries and great bread. 557 00:36:58,510 --> 00:37:00,130 Look where the dough starts right there. 558 00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:09,300 Notice that bakers always have big upper body strength, big arms and shoulders 559 00:37:09,300 --> 00:37:10,300 and forearms. 560 00:37:10,580 --> 00:37:13,460 While drunk and belligerent, never mess with a baker. 561 00:37:13,860 --> 00:37:16,700 Once they get their thumbs around your neck, you're toast. 562 00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:18,280 Getting hungry, dude. 563 00:37:18,680 --> 00:37:21,800 The big shop at school, everybody gained like eight pounds. 564 00:37:22,440 --> 00:37:24,920 Because you're starving first thing in the morning, you haven't had anything. 565 00:37:25,180 --> 00:37:27,220 It starts being really cold. 566 00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:31,260 In France, the most popular is... 567 00:37:31,560 --> 00:37:35,800 It's the baguette. This kind of baguette is a traditional baguette. 568 00:37:37,080 --> 00:37:38,520 We're following the whole process. 569 00:37:38,840 --> 00:37:40,400 Last night, dough was made. 570 00:37:40,620 --> 00:37:41,820 The whole batch of dough. 571 00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:44,520 Scaled today. 572 00:37:46,780 --> 00:37:47,780 Formed. 573 00:37:48,940 --> 00:37:51,860 Approved. The individual lows allowed to rise. 574 00:37:52,480 --> 00:37:54,320 How many baguettes do you sell every day? 575 00:37:54,540 --> 00:37:56,420 About 200. 576 00:37:56,880 --> 00:37:58,280 Profit margin on bread is... 577 00:38:00,990 --> 00:38:02,270 Finally, it goes me up. 578 00:38:05,070 --> 00:38:09,210 I have to believe that money isn't Pascal's prime motivation. 579 00:38:11,030 --> 00:38:16,130 It's probably the craze hell -bent focus on quality, on baking really good 580 00:38:16,130 --> 00:38:20,210 bread. That must be what gets him out of bed at this obscene hour. 581 00:38:20,470 --> 00:38:23,390 Cooking time is about 20 minutes. 582 00:38:44,230 --> 00:38:45,910 That's got to be one of the best smells on earth. 583 00:38:48,490 --> 00:38:53,410 This is a mystery about the French that I'm always curious about. 584 00:38:53,610 --> 00:38:56,010 They always know when the bread is coming out. 585 00:38:56,350 --> 00:38:59,590 I never know the schedule, but the French always know. 586 00:39:01,450 --> 00:39:04,490 It's like crackhead for the Parisian out there. It's like, where is it? 587 00:39:04,910 --> 00:39:05,910 Where is it? 588 00:39:07,650 --> 00:39:11,190 It takes a special person to make the very simple thing correctly. 589 00:39:12,520 --> 00:39:14,240 That's worth waiting for. That's good. 590 00:39:14,500 --> 00:39:15,500 So beautiful. 591 00:39:17,080 --> 00:39:19,260 Bread is existential for the French. 592 00:39:20,300 --> 00:39:22,760 I eat bread, therefore I am. 593 00:39:25,560 --> 00:39:27,080 Not just a piece of bread. 594 00:39:27,480 --> 00:39:28,620 It's a piece of bread. 595 00:39:47,850 --> 00:39:52,030 It's no accident that the institution, the café, is so closely associated with 596 00:39:52,030 --> 00:39:52,689 the French. 597 00:39:52,690 --> 00:39:55,990 What do we have here? We have a cup of coffee and a ham sandwich. 598 00:39:56,750 --> 00:39:59,390 Basically, a row of chairs all pointing in one direction. 599 00:39:59,710 --> 00:40:02,010 A little table staring out into the street. 600 00:40:02,250 --> 00:40:07,750 What a simple thing. Sit in a chair and observe the simplest of life's 601 00:40:07,750 --> 00:40:08,750 pleasures. 602 00:40:10,150 --> 00:40:13,610 And yet, for most Parisians, or many Parisians, this can be an afternoon's 603 00:40:13,610 --> 00:40:17,950 entertainment. And I think this gets right to the kernel of what 604 00:40:17,950 --> 00:40:22,810 the french what are the french famous for perfume that smells good sense of 605 00:40:22,810 --> 00:40:29,610 smell food that tastes good sense of taste art architecture visual 606 00:40:29,610 --> 00:40:35,870 sense okay there's really no explanation for their crap pop music but you know 607 00:40:35,870 --> 00:40:40,250 three out of four is not bad these are all matters of defensive just their 608 00:40:40,250 --> 00:40:45,810 attitude towards pleasure and sensuality and food in general being the best 609 00:40:45,810 --> 00:40:46,810 example 610 00:40:47,050 --> 00:40:51,090 In the English -speaking world, there's always been a certain ambivalence about 611 00:40:51,090 --> 00:40:52,450 taking pleasure at the table. 612 00:40:53,170 --> 00:40:57,390 There's been this notion, this puritanical notion, that if you take too 613 00:40:57,390 --> 00:41:02,570 pleasure in your food, that it might somehow lead to bad character, might 614 00:41:02,570 --> 00:41:05,450 to harder stuff, like sex, for instance. 615 00:41:06,790 --> 00:41:11,930 I think the French have always understood that, yeah, hell yeah, it 616 00:41:11,930 --> 00:41:12,970 sex, and it should. 617 00:41:13,520 --> 00:41:18,620 That residual sense of food being good, food being important, food being worth 618 00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:23,940 waiting for, and food being worth spending time with, eating, 619 00:41:24,200 --> 00:41:27,940 is and should be a joyous occasion. 620 00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:30,640 As should the use of all your senses. 621 00:41:31,180 --> 00:41:33,520 So America, perhaps you should try it. 622 00:41:35,440 --> 00:41:40,260 Maybe duck out of the office when the boss isn't looking, or call in sick for 623 00:41:40,260 --> 00:41:41,260 that boring meeting. 624 00:41:42,030 --> 00:41:47,870 Pull up a chair at a local joint, grab a tasty beverage, and eat a ham sandwich. 625 00:41:48,250 --> 00:41:49,850 Really eat a ham sandwich. 626 00:41:51,350 --> 00:41:55,570 You just may find you not only love the French again, but you may also love 627 00:41:55,570 --> 00:41:57,830 life, and ultimately the world. 51858

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