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1
00:00:28,294 --> 00:00:31,730
An uneven coastline,
and azure...
2
00:00:31,931 --> 00:00:35,765
Azure, azure, azure...
3
00:00:35,968 --> 00:00:39,131
... constitute the C�te d'Azur,
the French Riviera.
4
00:00:39,605 --> 00:00:42,904
The English have invented
a few landmarks of the coast:
5
00:00:43,108 --> 00:00:45,269
- The Promenade des Anglais.
- Nice.
6
00:00:45,477 --> 00:00:47,172
- The H�tel des Anglais.
- Menton.
7
00:00:47,379 --> 00:00:50,439
The Eglise anglaise,
also called English Church...
8
00:00:50,649 --> 00:00:54,107
... and the British Pharmacy.
9
00:00:56,055 --> 00:01:01,789
ALONG THE COAST
10
00:01:28,220 --> 00:01:32,418
Cinematography
11
00:02:01,387 --> 00:02:06,051
Editing
12
00:02:15,067 --> 00:02:19,527
Narrated by
13
00:02:59,178 --> 00:03:01,874
The natives are not the subject
of this film.
14
00:03:02,081 --> 00:03:03,742
Cogolin.
15
00:03:04,416 --> 00:03:08,375
Fulfilling the classic clich�,
they are always old and charming.
16
00:03:09,254 --> 00:03:12,018
Let's leave them
between the donkey and the cow.
17
00:03:12,658 --> 00:03:14,649
Our subject is the crowd:
18
00:03:14,860 --> 00:03:19,490
The tourists, the curious,
the emigrants, the amateurs,
19
00:03:19,698 --> 00:03:25,261
the passengers who discover this coast
and gather there to spend their free time.
20
00:03:36,215 --> 00:03:40,584
In 40 years, Nice's population grew
from 100,000 to 240,000 inhabitants.
21
00:03:40,786 --> 00:03:45,416
104,762 extra sleepers
overpopulate it every night.
22
00:03:45,624 --> 00:03:48,252
Cannes awakes with 32,003 emigrants,
23
00:03:48,460 --> 00:03:54,126
and Saint-Tropez, a village of 4000
souls, harbors 50,000 bodies in August.
24
00:03:54,333 --> 00:03:56,961
What are they looking for
in the Riviera?
25
00:03:57,169 --> 00:03:58,864
When did they start to come?
26
00:04:00,539 --> 00:04:04,270
The first patient was maybe
Cornelia Salonina,
27
00:04:04,476 --> 00:04:09,038
a Roman empress, who had
a fragile condition and broken nerves.
28
00:04:09,248 --> 00:04:11,978
She spent the winter
in Cimiez' thermal baths.
29
00:04:12,184 --> 00:04:13,742
Nice.
30
00:04:19,658 --> 00:04:22,923
The first tourist was maybe
the Cardinal Maurice of Savoy
31
00:04:23,128 --> 00:04:24,527
who, despite his 50 years of age,
32
00:04:24,730 --> 00:04:26,561
took off his habit
in order to marry his niece,
33
00:04:26,765 --> 00:04:28,596
Princess Marie-Louise.
34
00:04:28,801 --> 00:04:30,098
She was 14.
35
00:04:30,569 --> 00:04:34,096
Their honeymoon took place
in a room still visited today.
36
00:04:34,306 --> 00:04:36,536
2 rue Jules Gilly, Nice.
37
00:04:36,909 --> 00:04:38,536
They spent the winter there.
38
00:04:38,744 --> 00:04:40,803
Inventing "swallow tourism":
39
00:04:41,013 --> 00:04:44,540
The possibility to find, in any season,
not only the sun,
40
00:04:44,750 --> 00:04:46,650
but also the wild palm tree,
41
00:04:46,852 --> 00:04:48,444
the mimosa,
42
00:04:48,654 --> 00:04:49,882
the cypress,
43
00:04:50,089 --> 00:04:51,556
the cypresses,
44
00:04:51,757 --> 00:04:52,883
the maritime pine,
45
00:04:53,092 --> 00:04:54,457
the pink laurel,
46
00:04:54,660 --> 00:04:58,619
the Indian fig opuntia, which Moroccans
call the Christian fig tree,
47
00:04:58,831 --> 00:05:04,997
and the agave which lives for 100 years,
grows flowers once, and dies.
48
00:05:05,204 --> 00:05:08,139
During the 18th century,
in order to travel from Calais to Nice,
49
00:05:08,340 --> 00:05:10,171
one had to travel
in a stagecoach for 16 days,
50
00:05:10,375 --> 00:05:12,639
stopping at 107 relay stations.
51
00:05:12,845 --> 00:05:14,972
Cannes, the 107th stop,
52
00:05:15,180 --> 00:05:19,776
grew in popularity due to the plague,
closing Nice's gates to Lord Brougham.
53
00:05:19,985 --> 00:05:21,384
Lord Brougham.
54
00:05:21,587 --> 00:05:23,680
Seduced by his quarantine in Cannes,
55
00:05:23,889 --> 00:05:26,585
and stayed there for 40 years
and even more.
56
00:05:26,792 --> 00:05:28,384
Following his lead, many English,
57
00:05:28,594 --> 00:05:30,824
among which, Queen Victoria,
came to the city.
58
00:05:31,029 --> 00:05:32,587
English dukes,
59
00:05:32,798 --> 00:05:34,356
the Russian grand dukes,
60
00:05:34,566 --> 00:05:37,797
many titles and even a few names.
61
00:05:38,003 --> 00:05:39,868
Dante Alighieri,
62
00:05:40,072 --> 00:05:42,563
the Italian consul in Nice.
63
00:05:43,342 --> 00:05:45,276
�mile Zola
64
00:05:45,477 --> 00:05:48,776
spent his honeymoon
in the H�tel de Paris in Monaco.
65
00:05:49,581 --> 00:05:51,208
Friedrich Nietzsche,
66
00:05:51,416 --> 00:05:54,715
the third Zarathustra
around the village of Eze.
67
00:05:55,521 --> 00:05:57,546
Lucien Guitry,
68
00:05:57,756 --> 00:05:59,951
his poultry,
69
00:06:00,159 --> 00:06:02,821
the garden in St. Pons les M�res.
70
00:06:03,762 --> 00:06:06,356
A partly sunny morning in Monaco,
71
00:06:06,565 --> 00:06:10,194
a teenager who looked
like Guillaume Apollinaire.
72
00:06:10,402 --> 00:06:11,733
And Colette,
73
00:06:11,937 --> 00:06:14,405
who looked like a cat of Saint-Tropez,
74
00:06:14,606 --> 00:06:17,803
was writing Break of Day.
75
00:06:18,443 --> 00:06:20,377
Giraudoux, in Porquerolles,
76
00:06:20,579 --> 00:06:23,844
wrote Suzanne et le Pacifique.
77
00:06:25,817 --> 00:06:28,752
Painters also idealized the Riviera.
78
00:06:28,954 --> 00:06:31,548
- In the paintings of Joseph Vernet...
- Antibes.
79
00:06:31,757 --> 00:06:34,385
... one could see the tower
of the Ch�teau Grimaldi.
80
00:06:34,593 --> 00:06:38,927
In the ch�teau,
Picasso's work is displayed.
81
00:06:39,131 --> 00:06:42,498
A painter and a ceramist,
Picasso worked year-round.
82
00:06:42,701 --> 00:06:47,161
The only serious competition he finds
to his painting and firing,
83
00:06:47,372 --> 00:06:48,464
the sun.
84
00:06:50,642 --> 00:06:53,304
The sun's carriage springs up
from the water.
85
00:06:53,512 --> 00:06:55,707
It takes humanity along
in its burning race,
86
00:06:55,914 --> 00:06:59,577
and leaves it lying in the evening,
to be born again in the morning,
87
00:06:59,785 --> 00:07:02,345
and then starts again
the cycle of a slow labor,
88
00:07:02,554 --> 00:07:05,216
which requires overcoming
reserve and boredom,
89
00:07:05,424 --> 00:07:08,120
at the risk of losing your head,
or your skin
90
00:07:08,327 --> 00:07:12,423
which is judged by its tan.
91
00:07:43,328 --> 00:07:46,354
When you get to this point,
you have to cover yourself.
92
00:07:48,133 --> 00:07:50,431
And since from the useful
comes the beautiful,
93
00:07:50,636 --> 00:07:53,298
the cover becomes an accessory.
94
00:08:19,665 --> 00:08:22,828
They came to find the sun,
they found oblivion.
95
00:08:23,035 --> 00:08:24,161
Where are they?
96
00:08:24,369 --> 00:08:25,961
They are far away.
97
00:08:26,171 --> 00:08:28,071
Far from the coast.
98
00:08:28,273 --> 00:08:29,535
Far from everywhere.
99
00:08:29,741 --> 00:08:31,333
This is what we call exoticism.
100
00:08:32,644 --> 00:08:35,078
A pagoda-shaped shop,
101
00:08:35,280 --> 00:08:37,714
- it is Sunday in Beijing.
- Fr�jus.
102
00:08:39,251 --> 00:08:41,515
A Sudanic mosque,
103
00:08:41,720 --> 00:08:44,086
- Africa talks to you.
- Fr�jus.
104
00:08:44,556 --> 00:08:47,354
- A bulb, it is the Orient Palace.
- Menton.
105
00:08:47,826 --> 00:08:50,693
A Persian building, the Arabian Nights.
106
00:08:50,896 --> 00:08:52,056
In Monte Carlo.
107
00:08:52,664 --> 00:08:54,461
A Russian church,
108
00:08:55,033 --> 00:08:57,058
a carriage:
109
00:08:57,269 --> 00:08:59,669
- Moscow, 1900.
- Nice.
110
00:09:00,305 --> 00:09:02,205
A swimmer,
111
00:09:02,407 --> 00:09:04,375
a subway entrance:
112
00:09:04,576 --> 00:09:07,409
- Paris, 1900.
- Cannes.
113
00:09:08,480 --> 00:09:14,783
Finally, the most exotic of all:
The exotic gardens.
114
00:09:25,297 --> 00:09:27,231
A favorite place for lovers of nature
115
00:09:27,432 --> 00:09:30,424
who long for the silence
of vegetation.
116
00:09:44,983 --> 00:09:46,416
Despite the guide's explanations,
117
00:09:46,618 --> 00:09:48,848
they don't try to remember
the names of the plants.
118
00:09:49,221 --> 00:09:52,088
They'd rather have the plants
remember theirs.
119
00:09:54,659 --> 00:09:56,058
Write one's own name,
120
00:09:56,261 --> 00:09:59,321
or the name of a woman,
hoping to see her appear.
121
00:10:06,605 --> 00:10:09,733
For want of seeing Bardot,
talking to her, touching her,
122
00:10:09,941 --> 00:10:12,341
they come to drink in Saint-Tropez.
123
00:10:13,578 --> 00:10:18,447
Through a natural compensation system,
appetites change.
124
00:10:18,650 --> 00:10:20,049
They come to eat in Cannes,
125
00:10:20,252 --> 00:10:22,618
for want of meeting Sophia Loren
at the Festival.
126
00:10:27,726 --> 00:10:30,923
For want of seeing Matisse,
they come to see his grave.
127
00:10:31,129 --> 00:10:33,825
Alive or dead, famous people
have an audience,
128
00:10:34,032 --> 00:10:37,559
like Cro-Magnon, the first famous man,
and the oldest dead,
129
00:10:37,769 --> 00:10:40,932
receiving the tribute of the visitors before
they go see the Troph�e d'Auguste...
130
00:10:41,139 --> 00:10:42,163
La Turbie.
131
00:10:42,374 --> 00:10:44,274
...the Roman aqueduct...
- Fr�jus.
132
00:10:44,476 --> 00:10:46,171
... and the 13 moth-eaten
marble blocks
133
00:10:46,378 --> 00:10:48,710
intended for the August temple
in Narbonne,
134
00:10:48,914 --> 00:10:51,610
engulfed during a storm.
135
00:10:51,817 --> 00:10:53,717
Saint-Tropez.
136
00:10:55,287 --> 00:10:58,188
Let's return to the museum
that which belonged to Caesar.
137
00:10:58,390 --> 00:11:00,688
Let's leave the antiquities,
138
00:11:00,892 --> 00:11:04,658
and rehabilitate the inhabited relics,
the most precious of the Riviera:
139
00:11:04,863 --> 00:11:06,228
The age-old trees.
140
00:11:09,267 --> 00:11:11,963
A gigantic elm,
planted in the time of Sully.
141
00:11:12,170 --> 00:11:13,865
In Ramatuelle.
142
00:11:14,072 --> 00:11:17,041
A 1000-year-old olive tree.
143
00:11:17,242 --> 00:11:18,300
In Beaulieu.
144
00:11:19,244 --> 00:11:22,179
A bald cypress
from Canada and Louisiana,
145
00:11:22,380 --> 00:11:25,372
cutting made
by Monsieur Robert in 1797.
146
00:11:25,584 --> 00:11:27,347
In Toulon.
147
00:11:29,120 --> 00:11:32,578
- A century-old oak.
- In Saint-Cassien.
148
00:11:33,592 --> 00:11:36,322
And hackberries,
whose shadow is salutary.
149
00:11:36,528 --> 00:11:38,325
In Cogolin.
150
00:11:41,032 --> 00:11:43,023
Opposed to this dark color,
151
00:11:43,235 --> 00:11:45,863
there is the bright color
of the markets.
152
00:11:50,575 --> 00:11:56,946
But the tourists prefer the trendy
colors, yellow and blue.
153
00:12:09,327 --> 00:12:13,286
Passing fancies, hotels are painted
yellow and blue.
154
00:12:16,568 --> 00:12:18,695
Blue wins.
155
00:12:18,904 --> 00:12:20,462
All women want to be fashionable.
156
00:12:20,672 --> 00:12:23,266
All women wear blue,
157
00:12:24,976 --> 00:12:27,467
except the English,
158
00:12:28,747 --> 00:12:31,113
those learning to swim,
159
00:12:31,816 --> 00:12:34,751
and the Germans,
who are dedicated to green.
160
00:12:52,203 --> 00:12:55,172
Camping being the airiest form
of freedom,
161
00:12:55,373 --> 00:12:57,739
and the most ceremonial,
162
00:12:57,943 --> 00:13:02,004
it is very comfortable,
in the majesty of antique chairs.
163
00:13:02,213 --> 00:13:04,875
They retire under their tents.
164
00:13:07,586 --> 00:13:12,080
These parks, overpopulated with merry
people attracted by the Latin shore,
165
00:13:12,290 --> 00:13:16,852
foreshadow the dead people
seeking eternal rest there.
166
00:13:17,796 --> 00:13:22,358
In both cases, space is limited
because of its good quality.
167
00:13:23,335 --> 00:13:26,429
It is a well-rated coast.
168
00:13:27,439 --> 00:13:30,806
The Riviera is France's
most beautiful cemetery,
169
00:13:31,009 --> 00:13:35,810
with a great view
and a perpetually-renewed sea.
170
00:13:36,014 --> 00:13:38,482
The Riviera's deceased is of quality.
171
00:13:38,683 --> 00:13:41,948
The landscape welcomes him
with a well-deserved rest.
172
00:13:42,153 --> 00:13:44,781
He is discreet like a saddened heart
with no tears,
173
00:13:44,990 --> 00:13:47,618
humble like a hoop without roses,
174
00:13:48,193 --> 00:13:51,424
quiet like a field without honor,
175
00:13:51,630 --> 00:13:54,292
childish like a cradle,
176
00:13:54,499 --> 00:13:57,593
silent like the nearby forest,
177
00:13:57,969 --> 00:14:02,565
and surprising like, behind this wall,
178
00:14:02,774 --> 00:14:04,833
the giant Virgin.
179
00:14:05,043 --> 00:14:06,977
Saint Jean Cap Ferrat.
180
00:14:09,581 --> 00:14:12,072
The Holy Mother missed
her entrance in the Church,
181
00:14:12,283 --> 00:14:13,841
the cock has fallen from the bell tower,
182
00:14:14,052 --> 00:14:18,580
tipped by a bowl,
in the manner of this game of boules.
183
00:14:25,864 --> 00:14:28,162
Fortune turns with the roulette,
184
00:14:28,366 --> 00:14:30,334
as well as the wheel.
185
00:14:30,535 --> 00:14:33,504
- Death took Isadora Duncan.
- In Nice.
186
00:14:34,039 --> 00:14:37,031
Jean-Gabriel Domergue is ready
in the front of his tomb,
187
00:14:37,242 --> 00:14:40,006
which he built
like others build houses,
188
00:14:40,211 --> 00:14:43,703
less eternal, but full of the charm of life.
189
00:14:43,915 --> 00:14:45,143
The Charmer
190
00:14:45,350 --> 00:14:46,612
tenderness
191
00:14:46,818 --> 00:14:47,807
FRENZY
192
00:14:48,019 --> 00:14:49,509
FINALLY
193
00:14:56,828 --> 00:14:58,762
The villa
194
00:14:58,963 --> 00:15:01,625
embodies the craziness of design.
195
00:15:38,737 --> 00:15:42,605
Abandoned gardens, forgotten villas...
196
00:15:42,807 --> 00:15:43,933
This is cinema.
197
00:15:48,980 --> 00:15:54,941
Blasco lb��ez' friends enjoyed
coming to this retirement home for writers.
198
00:15:55,153 --> 00:15:57,348
Others liked hotels.
199
00:15:57,555 --> 00:16:02,549
What touches them and attaches them
to a particular hotel,
200
00:16:02,761 --> 00:16:04,251
is the greeting of the doorman.
201
00:16:05,997 --> 00:16:08,932
According to the barometer
of his familiarity,
202
00:16:09,134 --> 00:16:12,001
you are somebody or you're not.
203
00:16:58,349 --> 00:17:00,340
Doorman for 20 years
at the Grand H�tel...
204
00:17:00,552 --> 00:17:02,144
Cannes.
205
00:17:02,353 --> 00:17:04,218
... this one continues the game,
206
00:17:04,422 --> 00:17:06,185
greeting the lesser wallets
207
00:17:06,391 --> 00:17:10,691
with an irritating nostalgia
for the bigger ones.
208
00:17:20,638 --> 00:17:23,072
Where is the former Grand H�tel?
209
00:17:25,977 --> 00:17:28,070
Where is the Eden Roc?
210
00:17:28,613 --> 00:17:30,137
Where is Eden?
211
00:17:31,316 --> 00:17:33,614
The entire coast longs for it.
212
00:17:34,152 --> 00:17:36,518
The entire coast writes its name.
213
00:17:49,534 --> 00:17:52,503
Pedal boats on the other
side of EDEN.
214
00:17:54,305 --> 00:17:56,967
You always lack a penny
to make one franc.
215
00:17:57,175 --> 00:17:58,164
CLIMB OF THE DREAM
DEAD END
216
00:17:58,376 --> 00:18:00,310
The forbidden Eden sparks off a cry.
217
00:18:01,913 --> 00:18:04,074
The carnival is born from nostalgia.
218
00:20:34,599 --> 00:20:36,533
The carnival burns.
219
00:20:36,734 --> 00:20:38,292
The earth shakes.
220
00:20:38,503 --> 00:20:41,529
The sun goes mad.
The water takes its shape.
221
00:20:41,739 --> 00:20:45,800
The carnival is dead,
silence is golden.
222
00:20:46,344 --> 00:20:50,838
Silence as an answer to so many
questions, to volcanoes, to swirls.
223
00:20:51,049 --> 00:20:52,744
Eden exists.
224
00:20:53,051 --> 00:20:54,678
It is a dawn.
225
00:20:54,886 --> 00:20:57,582
Eden exists,
226
00:20:58,189 --> 00:21:00,453
it is an island.
227
00:23:40,918 --> 00:23:46,447
Heaven was a beach, and a pine cone.
228
00:23:46,657 --> 00:23:50,149
But the nostalgia of Eden is a garden.
229
00:23:54,999 --> 00:23:57,331
It is no longer the C�te d'Azur,
230
00:23:57,535 --> 00:23:59,935
but a transplanted garden.
231
00:24:00,137 --> 00:24:04,938
It is an idea of a garden
with flowers, grass and columns.
232
00:24:08,045 --> 00:24:10,377
Forgetting the sea nearby,
233
00:24:10,581 --> 00:24:13,015
the pond is a regret,
234
00:24:13,217 --> 00:24:17,347
the water lily is a lingering sigh.
235
00:24:24,996 --> 00:24:27,487
These are fake Eves,
236
00:24:27,698 --> 00:24:29,256
fake Adams,
237
00:24:29,467 --> 00:24:31,094
fake Cupids,
238
00:24:31,302 --> 00:24:33,361
misleading Venuses,
239
00:24:33,804 --> 00:24:38,138
fake caves and fake nymphs.
240
00:24:39,210 --> 00:24:41,440
Reveries are shared,
241
00:24:41,646 --> 00:24:44,547
but not the garden.
242
00:24:44,949 --> 00:24:47,110
The fake Eden is not for us,
243
00:24:47,318 --> 00:24:49,684
neither is Eden.
244
00:24:50,454 --> 00:24:52,854
And worse,
245
00:24:53,057 --> 00:24:56,083
the summer season comes to an end.
18224
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