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The home of the Vikings was a wild land.
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And.
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It still is.
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Here Nordic warriors fought.
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Died.
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And explored.
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Their legacy inspires today’s adventurers.
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Now, a walk on the wild side.
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A spectacular seaside journey, from the bustling south.
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Through the fjords.
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And up to the Arctic north.
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This is the coast of the Vikings, as seen:
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By their gods.
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Yeehoo!
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The higher you go, the colder it gets.
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That makes the frozen mountaintops of Norway a tough place
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to eke out a living.
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Few creatures even try.
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But one prefers life with a chill in the air.
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Musk oxen climb high.
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They’re more closely related to mountain goats than cows.
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And up here the wind whips the snow away
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from the grass and lichen below.
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It may look like slim pickings for an animal
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that can weigh three hundred and sixty kilos,
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but this is how they’ve survived for more than ten thousand years.
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Hanging in the higher climes
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can be a good way to avoid predators.
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At least until the big thaw that comes with summer.
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Now the mountain trails open up,
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including one of the most famous in the world.
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This path seems barely worn,
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but every year some three hundred thousand hikers make this pilgrimage.
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Two and a half hours of breathtaking views.
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But it’s the destination that makes this trek so special.
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Buck up and face the giddy heights.
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Walk along the edge of sanity.
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And you are rewarded with a religious experience,
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at least in name.
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This is Pulpit Rock,
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one of the most famous escarpments on the planet.
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Pulpit Rock sticks out thirty meters from the side of the fjord
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and it’s so named because it looks like a church lectern.
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The first tourists came here in 1900.
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And they’ve been coming ever since.
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It’s been called the best viewing platform in the world.
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And it was seen by millions in the climactic scene
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of the 2018 Mission: Impossible movie.
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Now it’s more popular than ever.
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Visitors cram onto a natural platform
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less than half the size of a football field.
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The drop down? A dizzying six hundred and four meters.
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Two hundred and thirty meters higher than the Empire State Building.
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This is just one special feature in a coastline
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that commands respect and inspires adventure.
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From the capital of Oslo in the south,
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Norway’s coastline heads southwest and then swings north.
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Past pulpit Rock.
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And one thousand six hundred fifty miles to Lofoten in the Arctic Circle.
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This was the farthest outpost for the Vikings who once ruled this land.
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Much of this Viking coastline it dwarfed by steep cliffs.
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One creature is at home both above and below these lofty heights.
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The white-tailed eagle is one of the largest birds of prey on earth.
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Its specialty: fishing.
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Norway has the highest density of white-tailed eagles in the world.
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They need as much as six hundred grams of food a day each.
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It gets competitive.
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The younger birds don’t have their white tails yet,
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but they still jump in on the action.
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It’s a good grab. But waiting in the wings, a challenger.
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The catch goes down,
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and the challenger sees it first.
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Now, rather than risk a counter attack,
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he takes it to go.
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Eagles on the Viking coast inspire some dare devils.
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The humans just need to start a little higher.
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A group of hikers climbs to the top of the Kjerag Cliffs.
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And they have no intention of climbing down.
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They’re on a mission to BASE jump.
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There are seventy or so such athletes in Norway,
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including world champions.
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For them Kjerag is a Mecca.
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It towers above the surrounding peaks,
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more than one thousand meters high.
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For thrill seekers like Carlos Montanero Mora,
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BASE jumping is the ultimate expression of the Viking spirit.
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The soul of BASE jumping is freedom and nature.
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Being able to take control of your own life,
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make your own decisions and try new stuff.
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I couldn't imagine myself here 11 years ago,
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before I started skydiving.
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You assess all the time,
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"Am I ready for this? Have I done enough research?
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Is this within my skill level?”
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And if all those answers are yes,
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we start walking, try to keep a level head,
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think about, "This could go wrong. What do I do then?
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Have I done everything I can to make this a safe jump.”
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And if that checklist says yes,
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then the only step is to jump.
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The danger and the risk is always there,
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no matter what you do, how safe you do it.
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The risk is always there.
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So when I get to the edge,
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I assess the winds.
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I assess who I’m with. My own inner feeling.
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Just, do I feel comfortable doing this today?
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Right before the exit you’re at your most concentrated and scared,
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a good balance of both.
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I do a count.
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It kina sets my mind in what I’m about to do.
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Once I count down, it's set in stone.
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Then it's full focus on what's coming ahead.
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You're taking a big risk but you have done your homework
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so in theory it should work [laughs].
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You ready?
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3, 2, 1.
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See ya.
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There's a complete feeling of freedom
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because you're not attached to anything, literally.
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You're falling. You're weightless,
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you're unable to focus on anything else than the present moment.
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And that's where the freedom lies.
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Woohoohoohoo. Yeah buddy. Woo ha ha. Yeah buddy.
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These adventurers are not alone.
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Records kept since 1994 log more than fifty thousand jumps
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along the Viking coast.
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You can plan everything out.
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You can do everything right.
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And still, something can go wrong.
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No one can guarantee you that this jump will be safe. Ever.
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Even the best have died doing what they know.
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And we have all lost friends.
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That's the randomness and freedom of it that you cannot control it.
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No matter who you are or what you do.
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But you have a little moment of, "Ok, I've pulled.”
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Ah! There it is!
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Thank God. Thank God.
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It's a huge relief, joy and a new focus.
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Now I have to land.
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Depending on the suit,
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it’s around thirty seconds of flight time
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before these BASE jumpers pull their chutes.
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They get to punch through the clouds like a bird,
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all going well, that is.
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For those who live in Norway,
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such encounters with nature are never far away.
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Travel one hundred kilometers up the Oslo Fjord,
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past forty or so islands,
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and you reach one of the most remarkable capital cities in the world.
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Oslo is often labeled
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one of the most expensive places to live on the planet.
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But it’s also been ranked number one for its quality of life.
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Fewer than seven hundred thousand people live here.
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Yet it’s a world center.
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And the home of the Nobel Peace Prize.
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It’s a bustling city.
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But more than two thirds of its space
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is dedicated to waterways and forests.
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It is therefore a capital and a springboard into nature.
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From here you can jump into the wide open wilderness of the north,
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or the wide open waters of the coast,
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and get a taste of the adventurous Viking spirit.
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Not far out of Oslo, signs of Norway’s rich past.
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On the banks, mounds of dirt hide incredible treasures.
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This is the Borre Mound Cemetery,
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and these piles cover the most extensive collection
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of kings’ graves in Scandinavia.
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Others nearby watch over the crops.
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Buried with the royal remains,
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archaeologists have found ornaments, some buildings
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and even the first ever excavated timbers of an ancient Viking ship.
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All of this to accompany Nordic nobles
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on a sunset journey into Odin’s Valhalla.
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Death for the average Viking came after just thirty or forty winters.
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Head out of the Oslo Fjord and follow the coast southwest
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and around for five hundred and twenty five kilometers.
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And you find a unique symbol of the Viking past
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and its incredible violence.
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Near Norway’s southwesterly most point, this:
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Three bronze swords stand ten meters tall,
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planted into solid granite.
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They commemorate a historic and bloody naval battle.
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In the ninth century several kings faced off against each other
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in the Battle of Hafrsfjord.
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And one of them emerged to rule all of Norway,
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King Harald Fairhair.
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Harald’s rise marked the beginning of Norway as a single kingdom.
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And few rulers were as notorious as
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the king’s son and successor, Erik the First Bloodaxe.
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The Bloodaxe part of his name?
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He earned that by murdering five of his brothers.
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Now one kingdom, the country needed a name.
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And they found it in an inland sea
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just a little farther north up Karmsundet Strait.
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Most countries are named after their ethnic group or land areas,
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but Norway is named after this shipping lane,
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a natural protected passage that leads north.
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It is the “north way” or Norway.
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On its islands kings drowned those accused of witchcraft and wizardry.
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And in Avaldsnes, King Harald made his royal home.
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Today it’s mostly farmland, and ruins.
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But reconstructions of a longhouse, a roundhouse
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and a boathouse for Viking warships are still here.
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These Norwegians are part of an archaeological study
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trying to uncover the ways Vikings used weapon and tools,
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as well as how they prepared timber
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and made buildings and ships \
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and honed their battle skills.
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All Viking men learned to fight.
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And many of the women.
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Viking power came from these battle skills
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and the ability to build boats and navigate.
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And of those, navigation may have been the greatest challenge.
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Draw a straight line along Norway’s sea border
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and it’ll measure two thousand six hundred and fifty kilometers.
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But when you add in every island, bay and fjord,
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the actual coastline is nearly ten times that distance.
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In this land of natural straits and channels,
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boats are connectors.
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Through the fjords, vessels are dwarfed by cascading waterfalls,
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and impassable cliffs.
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That’s why the waterways have been used like highways for hundreds of years.
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Towns like Lysebotn are quaint harbors.
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And they have long been gateways to an often frozen interior.
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Norway’s southernmost glaciers
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lie in Folgefonn National Park
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and in places the ice is four hundred meters thick.
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Around fourteen feet of snow falls up here every year.
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But on a good day this area is an adventurer’s playground.
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We have the sun out right now, beautiful day,
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next week we can have a rampant blizzard up here,
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and uh, it’s almost like it’s changing mood.
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Snorre Gimse Storro is a glacier guide.
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For him, the chilled heights and perilous cracks are part of the thrill.
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It’s all about knowing what it going on.
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You just have to be patient with it,
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you have to work with it,
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you have to try and be nice with it, respect it.
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The glacier can be a treacherous place.
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When you have the snow laying on top all of those,
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all of those things are hidden.
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So you end up really walking over snow bridges
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which might be very, very thin.
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You, you don’t know.
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You have to read the glacier,
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you have to know what to look for,
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you have to know what you are looking at in the landscape.
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The reward is the glacier itself.
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It has a mystique to it.
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It’s nature that is constantly changing
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and every single time you are up here
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there will be some slight changes.
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So it is that excitement of seeing new stuff all the time
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and seeing new things pop out, hearing the sounds.
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And if the sounds atop the glacier fail to impress,
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wait till you hear what’s going on below!
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On the surface of Norway’s glaciers the sound fluctuates
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between eerie silence and icy winds.
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But down below glacier guide Snorre Gimse Storro hears something different.
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Melting ice streams through the cracks.
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You can’t see it, but you can hear it
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changing the glacier from the inside out.
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The ice is of course thousands of years old but,
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but that crevasse you are in wasn’t similar last year,
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it wasn’t similar last week! You are always seeing something new.
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While Snorre climbs up and out,
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the water from melting ice streams in and down.
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It finally finds fresh air as it leaves the glacier
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and feeds the valleys and villages below.
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The towering fjords in between present their own climbing challenge.
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But no need for crampons here.
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The Flam Railway cuts through this landscape
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and climbs eight hundred and sixty seven meters in only twenty kilometers.
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That makes it one of the steepest railway climbs on the planet.
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And it’s been ranked the number one railway experience in the world.
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Since 1940 the train from Flam has taken passengers past free flowing rivers,
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up mountains and by bursting cascades.
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It’s perfect habitat for one of Norway’s more elusive inhabitants.
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The Eurasian otter is built for the Viking coast.
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Its double-layered coat has a coarse outer fur.
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It’s waterproof to protect it from the cold.
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And it’s just as content by salt water as it is by fresh.
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As long as it can still find a stream now
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and then to down a drink and wash.
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Its dense bones to help it sink into the streams,
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where it can hold its breath for up to four minutes,
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enough time to snag some lunch.
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And when otters are not hunting, it’s play time.
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Illegal trapping and killing,
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along with pollution and net entanglements
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have put otters on the “near-threatened” list.
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But they can still be seen by those
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who take to the water quietly.
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This fjord in central Norway dwarfs kayakers.
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They call this a paddler’s paradise.
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Ervin Mejia liked it so much during his vacation in 2005,
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that he stayed on and now guides others.
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I came. I fell in love with the place and I decided to stay.
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It was just too much to absorb all at once.
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Extreme landscape, very nice people,
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just a beautiful place.
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Some of the views that we get to see around here are not only dramatic,
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but sometimes going into another world.
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Coming into the fjords, you are stepping back in time,
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and as you're coming in it
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just ah narrows down a little bit
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and then you actually realize how small you really are
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because the sheer walls around you,
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it seems like they're closing in on you.
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By definition, a fjord is a long deep inlet surrounded by cliffs.
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This one is seventeen kilometers long.
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At its narrowest it’s only a few hundred meters across.
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the walls of this fjord plunge another five hundred meters beneath the sea.
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And rise up fourteen hundred meters.
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But trek up above and you soon find farmland.
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The majority of Vikings were farmers.
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They made the most of the land around them.
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You're starting off a hike and uh,
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where it starts off somewhat steep, not so steep,
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and then it starts to turn into sheer steepness.
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Um, still hikeable, without having to climb.
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And then all of a sudden you just are rewarded
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with this just wonderful view.
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It's almost like a dream.
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This dream can also be a nightmare for travelers in a hurry.
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Road builders must get creative to overcome fjords, peaks,
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islands and a maze of waterways.
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So just a little farther north they built a modern marvel
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that’s been called Norway’s greatest construction of the 20th century.
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This is Norway’s world famous Atlantic Ocean road.
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It’s only eight kilometers long, but it took six years to build.
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It winds and arches like a great serpent across twelve bridges
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and juts out over the ocean.
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So close that on a windy day cars get hit by sea spray.
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That’s not a problem for another bridge about five hundred and eighty kilometers
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farther up the coast.
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This one sits forty-one meters above the sea.
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It’s famous for what dances beneath.
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The swirling twirling pirouettes below
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are from one of the world’s strongest currents.
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It rips through this straight in Saltstraumen
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forming mighty whirlpools ten meters across.
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It’s been clocked at a speed of thirty-seven kilometers an hour,
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nearly as fast as a galloping horse.
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But for the most spectacular water flows in Norway,
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you don’t look down, you look up.
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Water courses through the veins of the Viking coast.
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It shapes the land in spectacular ways.
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These glaciers began their carving out of Norway’s fjords
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and deep valleys about twenty thousand years ago.
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Now rain, ice and snow-melt are finishing the job.
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Some waterfalls plummet more than seven hundred and fifty meters.
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Ten of the world’s tallest thirty waterfalls are in Norway.
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Some may look like a trickle
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compared to the towering cliffs around them,
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but others fan out, as legend says, like cascading locks of hair.
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All this flowing water carves the landscape, until.
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Every winter, when nature turns off the tap.
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And everything grinds to a halt.
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Vikings quickly learned how hard the winters here can be.
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But there’s one place where the water never freezes.
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When the snow meets the sea in far north Lofoten,
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it’s time to go fishing.
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Winter brings a great migration of cod to Norway
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and anglers head out in traditional fishing boats called a “sjark”.
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Cod are bottom dwellers,
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and here they hang out on the continental shelf.
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Right now they’ve just spawned with the females
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laying between twenty and thirty million eggs each.
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The time is right for sports fishermen to strike.
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It’s hard cold work done with rod and reel.
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But the rewards are usually worth the effort.
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In this case, a cod weighing nearly fourteen kilos.
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Commercial boats are here too,
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using longlines that stretch out for kilometers.
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Big cod eat one thing: other fish.
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So these commercial lines are baited with mackerel,
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herring and squid.
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Dragged through a crowd of cod, the bait is irresistible.
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Cod from Lofoten has its own name,
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referred to the world over as skrei.
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And they catch nearly half a million tons of skrei every year.
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Back on shore, the fresh meat is sent to markets
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in the United States and Europe.
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But the real genius is what they do with the heads and tails.
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Fishermen in Norway’s far north use their Arctic climate
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as a free form of freeze drying.
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Giant drying racks for fish have been used since the Viking days.
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They hang the fish up for three or four months
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and the cold dry air does the rest.
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The result is “stockfish” that will last without further refrigeration.
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For nearly a thousand years stockfish has been a major Norwegian export.
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It helped build the nation.
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It’s cod that allowed the Vikings to settle and stay in Lofoten.
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It was their northernmost outpost.
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The stunning cliffs and seaside fishing villages,
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all caked in snow,
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mask one of Lofoten’s best kept secrets,
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the water is relatively warm.
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Despite these islands being in the Arctic circle,
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the gulf stream keeps the ocean here well above freezing.
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The towns of the Lofoten Islands support around twenty four thousand people.
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They must still deal with winter on the roads.
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And they do it with modern machinery.
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00:41:02,120 --> 00:41:05,250
It can be hazardous work during midwinter
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00:41:05,250 --> 00:41:08,900
when Lofoten has a full month of night.
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00:41:11,280 --> 00:41:14,330
But their work in this part of the Viking coast
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00:41:14,330 --> 00:41:16,780
may still be illuminated.
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By spectacular displays of the northern lights.
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Aurora borealis.
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00:41:30,780 --> 00:41:34,260
The dazzling green shimmer of the northern lights
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is created by charged particles from the sun.
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00:41:39,260 --> 00:41:43,660
They are drawn to the poles by the earth’s magnetic field.
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And now they collide with gas particles in our upper atmosphere.
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It’s all happening one hundred kilometers up,
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making a great spectacle for those on earth, and in space.
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Some say the Vikings believed
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the lights were the armor of the Valkyrie virgin warriors
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who escorted the dead from the battlefield to the heavens.
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Beneath these northern lights
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is where the Vikings of Lofoten built
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some of their most impressive dwellings, giant long houses.
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This life-sized replica of a long house in Borg
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is nearly eighty-five meters long.
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Norway’s most formidable chieftain lived here.
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The area’s natural resources made him a powerful leader.
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And there was no one to the north to compete.
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No Vikings settled further into the Arctic than this.
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It was the end of the road.
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And eventually the Viking way of life itself ended.
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Christianity replaced the war-loving gods of Norway.
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And slowly the Vikings moved from raiding and fighting,
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to farming and fishing.
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The last of the Viking monarchs was killed in a raid
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in England in the year one thousand sixty six.
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What remains now are symbols of the Viking past.
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A rugged coastline.
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Wild inhabitants.
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And an irrepressible spirit of adventure.
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Yahoo!
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The Vikings may be gone,
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but the incredible Viking coast will honor them.
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Forever.
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