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Narrator:
The tip of Patagonia stretches
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into the great Southern Ocean,
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where giants roam.
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Whale trills, squeaks
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In the deep, all is quiet.
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But above, a storm is raging.
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Monje speaking Spanish
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Narrator: At these latitudes, the sea
can be terrifying.
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They say that
below 40 degrees south,
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there is no law,
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but below 50, there is no god.
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At the ends of the Earth
is a land of extremes...
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...nome to spectacular wildlife.
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For centuries,
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people and animals
have battled for supremacy.
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But now enemies
are becoming allies.
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Together they face
new challenges...
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...Iin our rapidly changing world.
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You are at the mercy
of the elements.
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Narrator:
This is the story
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of what it takes to survive...
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...on the edge of the world.
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Patagonia's far south
is dominated by the wind...
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WIind whistling
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...and the cold.
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00:02:34,446 --> 00:02:36,531
Extending below
the 50th parallel,
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no other land mass lies
so close to Antarctica.
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To survive here
I GCERE= el
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Birds squawking
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...determination,
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and sometimes sheer size.
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Much of the land is just empty,
wind-blasted tundra.
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But the sea
is teeming with life.
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A humpback whale.
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Whale calls
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This 30-ton giant
has traveled all the way
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from its winter breeding grounds
in the tropical Pacific,
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a journey of more
than 4,000 miles.
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On its tail is wildlife
veterinarian Frederick Toro.
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Toro speaking Spanish
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These are the waters of the
Francisco Coloane Marine Park
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in the Straits of Magellan.
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lalicier
marine biologists realized
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this is an important
feeding ground for humpbacks.
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Birds squawking
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The forceful mixing of
the Atlantic and Pacific oceans
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stirs up nutrients,
creating plankton blooms,
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the foundation
of the marine food chain.
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Food is so plentiful,
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the whales behave
in extraordinary ways.
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Toro speaking Spanish
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Wow.
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But the whales aren't the only
ones plying these waters.
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Foghorn
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Toro speaking Spanish
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The steady stream of ships
through the Straits
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might drive away
the whales entirely.
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Toro speaking Spanish
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Foghorn
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To make his case,
Frederick needs proof
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that the whales are stressed โ
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and that means taking a sample.
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But chasing whales in boats
may panic them.
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So Frederick and his team
are trying something new.
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A drone.
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Its mission?
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To hover over the whale's spout
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and catch a sample of its snot.
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Drone whirring
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Spout samples reveal levels
of stress hormones
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as well as pollution.
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But catching a sample
is easier said than done.
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The timing has to be just right.
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Missed.
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The whale disappears.
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Flying against the wind,
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the drone's battery
is running out of juice.
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Drone whirring, beeping
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If the whale doesn't
10 gizTol=R:1eeal
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they'll have to give up.
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One last chance.
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Got it.
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Toro speaking Spanish
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Frederick hopes that his sample
will provide the proof
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that these humpbacks
need protection.
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The rich waters
of Patagonia's far south
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have the power of life...
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...and death.
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Narrator: Crab fisherman
Fernando Monje
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has worked the waters
of the Beagle Channel
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for over a decade.
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The 130-mile seaway
runs east-west across Patagonia.
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The narrow channel funnels
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the Southern Ocean's
ferocious winds.
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Speaking Spanish
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Birds squawking
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NF-Tag= o g
Some ships don't make it.
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The waters of the far south
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have claimed
well over 1,000 ships...
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...and more than 10,000 sailors.
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At first, Fernando
saw these wrecks
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as nothing more
than rusting monuments.
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But then he decided
to take a closer look.
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Fernando speaking Spanish
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Nature has claimed
this steel hulk.
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Thanks to the nutrients
stirred up by the storms,
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these waters are full of life.
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00:11:01,327 --> 00:11:03,913
But free-diving here is risky.
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You can easily
get disoriented...
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...even trapped.
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Fernando speaking Spanish
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Narrator: Luckily,
today's conditions are good.
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Fernando gets out safely
with his haul.
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00:11:43,369 --> 00:11:46,247
He makes a good living from
the shellfish he collects here.
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Fernando speaking Spanish
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00:12:14,025 --> 00:12:17,987
Narrator: Further up the coast,
another underwater forager
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is also returning home.
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Penguins honking
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A mother gentoo penguin
bringing food to her baby.
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She's back on Hammer Island
after a 10-hour fishing trip.
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She swam nearly 13 miles,
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diving down 200 feet
or more to feed.
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00:13:02,115 --> 00:13:05,451
Now she hikes through hoards
of her cousins โโ
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Magellanic penguins.
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Penguins trilling, honking
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Exhausted,
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but home at last.
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Finally, a chance to rest.
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Or maybe not.
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Her 6-week-old chick
is ravenous.
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Chick chirping
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Growing fast, he has
an insatiable appetite.
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Mom needs to keep some food
back for herself,
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but her chick won't
take "no" for an answer.
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Sometimes it's not easy
being a mom.
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And raising a family here
is especially hard.
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One moment, you're basking
in the sunshine.
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The next, you're being stalked
by an outsider.
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Narrator: On Hammer Island,
deep in the far south,
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gentoo penguins face a harsh
and remote existence.
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But they're not alone.
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This is marine biologist
Dr. Andrea Raya Rey.
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Speaking Spanish
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00:15:36,310 --> 00:15:39,730
Narrator: Andrea and her team
don't just observe the penguins.
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They get hands-on.
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Dramatic music plays
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Penguins chirping
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00:15:51,909 --> 00:15:55,830
They take blood samples and give
the birds a health check.
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Andrea speaking Spanish
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00:16:12,430 --> 00:16:14,724
Narrator: Studying them on land
is one thing.
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But what happens
when the gentoos go to sea?
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00:16:20,438 --> 00:16:22,815
Andrea wants to learn
how they feed.
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A small camera is attached
to this male's back
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00:16:28,571 --> 00:16:30,865
to document
his hunting strategy.
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Ungainly on land,
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00:16:41,876 --> 00:16:45,254
the gentoo is the world's
fastest underwater bird.
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00:16:50,551 --> 00:16:53,679
His wings propel him
at over 20 miles per hour
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into a shoal of small fish.
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00:17:07,777 --> 00:17:09,904
But he's not the only
one feasting here.
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00:17:11,739 --> 00:17:16,077
Seabirds dive in from above,
grabbing what they can.
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Gentoos were thought
to primarily feed at depth,
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but now Andrea has discovered
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that they're also
opportunistic feeders.
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Right now, there are
only 50 pairs
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o lie=Ta 100l
living on Hammer Island.
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But the colony is growing.
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Fish are plentiful
in the open water,
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00:17:52,947 --> 00:17:56,951
and nearby is a habitat
that supports yet more food.
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Penguins honking
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A giant kelp forest.
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00:18:19,265 --> 00:18:21,267
Like an underwater rainforest,
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00:18:21,684 --> 00:18:24,812
it's one of the most biodiverse
habitats in the ocean,
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providing food and shelter
for hundreds of species.
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The conditions here are perfect.
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These are the largest, most
pristine kelp beds in the world.
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The fjords and seaways
of the far south stretch
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for thousands of miles.
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Remote and rarely visited
by humans.
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Seal purring
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In 2003, scientists made
a surprising discovery
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here in the heart of
the Tierra del Fuego archipelago.
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On this small island,
they found an animal
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that was completely unexpected.
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One of the largest birds
to take to the skies...
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Bird squawks
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...albatross.
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These giants normally nest
on remote oceanic islands,
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not in narrow fjords
surrounded by mountains.
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No-one knows why these
black-browed albatross
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have chosen to settle here.
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Exposed and steep,
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it's a challenging place
to build a nest.
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But every spring,
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60 pairs return
to their small dirt mounds.
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Albatross squawking
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Black-browed albatross
can live over 70 years.
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00:20:36,527 --> 00:20:39,822
This couple may well have been
together for decades.
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00:20:42,158 --> 00:20:47,371
They only produce a single
precious egg every year or two.
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00:21:10,394 --> 00:21:14,273
The female could be away
for days, even weeks.
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And there's a chance
she may not come back at all...
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...because out at sea,
there is something deadly.
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00:21:37,922 --> 00:21:40,132
Narrator: This black-browed
albatross father
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00:21:40,341 --> 00:21:42,301
is keeping
his precious egg warm.
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00:21:49,517 --> 00:21:51,268
And he needs to sit tight.
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00:21:52,978 --> 00:21:54,522
a snowstorm is coming.
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00:21:56,315 --> 00:21:58,108
Wind whipping
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00:22:04,657 --> 00:22:07,076
When the wind is
this bitterly cold,
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00:22:07,910 --> 00:22:11,247
leaving the egg
for a moment might Kkill it.
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00:22:18,671 --> 00:22:22,675
And in the far south,
it can blow for days.
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00:22:23,717 --> 00:22:25,010
And days.
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00:22:32,142 --> 00:22:33,936
Albatross squawking
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00:22:34,395 --> 00:22:36,480
It's been a week
since his partner left.
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00:22:40,651 --> 00:22:44,488
Cold and hungry,
soon he will have no choice
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00:22:44,572 --> 00:22:47,658
but to abandon his egg and feed.
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00:22:57,960 --> 00:23:00,546
Finally, his partner returns.
216
00:23:08,554 --> 00:23:10,431
For now, their egg is safe.
217
00:23:12,057 --> 00:23:15,144
And dad is free to search
for his own food.
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00:23:24,069 --> 00:23:26,071
Time to head for the open ocean.
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00:23:36,373 --> 00:23:39,168
His wings,
nearly 8 feet across,
220
00:23:39,668 --> 00:23:43,172
allow him to glide
with almost no effort.
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00:24:04,944 --> 00:24:08,739
He may travel hundreds of miles
on a single feeding trip.
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00:24:11,867 --> 00:24:16,664
Riding the winds, he soars
with barely a wing flap.
223
00:24:28,926 --> 00:24:31,595
But there's danger
in the feeding grounds.
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00:24:37,017 --> 00:24:40,813
Hooks โ
often lethal for albatross.
225
00:24:42,856 --> 00:24:46,068
Commercial fishing vessels
trail hundreds of them on lines
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00:24:46,151 --> 00:24:47,945
that can be over a mile long.
227
00:24:53,534 --> 00:24:58,330
Every year, thousands of
albatross are hooked and drown.
228
00:25:08,799 --> 00:25:11,051
This longline fishing boat
is different.
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00:25:14,930 --> 00:25:16,473
And not just
because it's smaller,
230
00:25:18,225 --> 00:25:21,562
but because of its skipper โโ
Juan Carrasco.
231
00:25:22,771 --> 00:25:24,857
Speaking Spanish
232
00:25:47,421 --> 00:25:49,131
Narrator:
On a heavily weighted line,
233
00:25:49,506 --> 00:25:53,677
Juan's bait quickly sinks beyond
the reach of the albatross.
234
00:25:57,139 --> 00:25:59,183
Speaking Spanish
235
00:26:02,644 --> 00:26:04,188
This one may be hungry,
236
00:26:05,230 --> 00:26:06,690
but at least he's safe.
237
00:26:09,860 --> 00:26:13,822
Juan speaking Spanish
238
00:26:26,710 --> 00:26:28,879
Narrator: Sometimes
gatherings of albatross
239
00:26:28,962 --> 00:26:31,465
even guide Juan
to good fishing spots.
240
00:26:31,548 --> 00:26:33,759
Albatross squawking
241
00:26:36,595 --> 00:26:40,307
And in return, he gives them
nutritious cast-offs
242
00:26:40,390 --> 00:26:41,475
from his catch.
243
00:26:49,441 --> 00:26:52,194
But perhaps the most
incredible part of this story
244
00:26:52,569 --> 00:26:55,697
is how widely Juan's
technique is spreading.
245
00:26:58,075 --> 00:27:00,035
Prompted by scientists,
246
00:27:00,536 --> 00:27:02,996
the Chilean
commercial longline fleet
247
00:27:03,080 --> 00:27:06,125
is now using Juan's
heavy-weighted bait technique.
248
00:27:10,379 --> 00:27:12,422
Hook-related deaths in Patagonia
249
00:27:12,506 --> 00:27:15,175
have dropped
to practically zero.
250
00:27:16,969 --> 00:27:20,264
It's an extraordinary
conservation success story.
251
00:27:22,516 --> 00:27:25,978
Juan's technique has even
been adopted by other fleets
252
00:27:26,061 --> 00:27:28,230
across the rest
of the Southern Ocean.
253
00:27:31,942 --> 00:27:33,694
Juan speaking Spanish
254
00:27:49,084 --> 00:27:52,421
Narrator: While the rich waters
of Patagonia's far south support
255
00:27:52,504 --> 00:27:55,048
an amazing diversity
of sea life...
256
00:27:57,593 --> 00:28:00,179
...the land appears desolate.
257
00:28:01,555 --> 00:28:03,932
Much of it is a treeless steppe.
258
00:28:06,727 --> 00:28:10,439
Only the very toughest animals
can survive here.
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00:28:22,075 --> 00:28:23,577
Narrator:
Isla Grande,
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00:28:23,911 --> 00:28:26,747
the largest land mass
of Tierra del Fuego,
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00:28:27,414 --> 00:28:30,250
covers 18,000 square miles.
262
00:28:33,545 --> 00:28:36,465
This is the last land
before Antarctica โโ
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00:28:37,966 --> 00:28:40,219
the very end of the world.
264
00:28:43,847 --> 00:28:46,642
It takes a tough customer
to survive here.
265
00:28:48,060 --> 00:28:51,063
Sheep bleating
266
00:28:54,149 --> 00:28:58,403
Europeans introduced sheep
around 150 years ago
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00:28:59,071 --> 00:29:00,614
for wool and meat.
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00:29:03,617 --> 00:29:06,328
In summer, they graze
on the hills.
269
00:29:07,746 --> 00:29:09,164
But winter is coming.
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00:29:16,004 --> 00:29:17,881
Freezing rain is forecast.
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00:29:19,508 --> 00:29:22,386
Shepherd Cristian Trina must
get his sheep down
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00:29:22,469 --> 00:29:23,887
to his lowland ranch.
273
00:29:26,682 --> 00:29:28,558
All 1,200 of them.
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00:29:39,194 --> 00:29:42,739
Cristian speaking Spanish
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00:29:51,081 --> 00:29:52,916
Narrator:
If they get cold and wet,
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00:29:53,083 --> 00:29:55,460
many could die from pneumonia.
277
00:29:58,380 --> 00:30:01,341
To get to the lower pastures,
they must cover
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00:30:01,425 --> 00:30:04,219
more than 10 miles
before nightfall.
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00:30:08,098 --> 00:30:10,600
Moving so many sheep
is a tough job,
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00:30:11,226 --> 00:30:14,438
but Cristian
has some expert helpers.
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00:30:24,239 --> 00:30:27,784
It's not an easy life,
but Cristian loves it.
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00:30:28,702 --> 00:30:31,079
Cristian speaking Spanish
283
00:30:39,588 --> 00:30:41,256
But times are changing.
284
00:30:42,257 --> 00:30:45,427
Fewer young people
are choosing this way of life.
285
00:30:45,886 --> 00:30:47,429
Horn honks in distance
286
00:30:48,805 --> 00:30:51,516
And the modern world
is taking over.
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00:30:56,855 --> 00:31:00,192
A highway now runs alongside the
old traditional trail
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00:31:00,275 --> 00:31:02,110
Cristian uses for his sheep.
289
00:31:04,363 --> 00:31:08,909
Cristian speaking Spanish
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00:31:28,929 --> 00:31:32,140
Finally, the flock can move
away from the road.
291
00:31:33,683 --> 00:31:36,770
Their 10-mile journey
is almost at an end.
292
00:31:38,313 --> 00:31:39,648
The weather has held,
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00:31:40,107 --> 00:31:42,401
and home is in sight.
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00:31:45,612 --> 00:31:48,615
Cristian speaking Spanish
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00:32:11,930 --> 00:32:15,851
Narrator: And just a few miles south
from here, a remarkable animal
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00:32:15,934 --> 00:32:19,104
is making a surprising
comeback to Patagonia.
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00:32:25,569 --> 00:32:27,195
The king penguin.
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00:32:52,429 --> 00:32:54,514
Penguins chirping
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00:32:54,973 --> 00:32:58,477
These are the only king penguins
on the South American land mass.
300
00:33:01,605 --> 00:33:04,483
Once,
hundreds of thousands of them
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00:33:04,566 --> 00:33:05,942
lived on Tierra del Fuego.
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00:33:06,151 --> 00:33:08,528
Penguins honking
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00:33:08,653 --> 00:33:11,907
But they were hunted
to extinction by European settlers.
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00:33:14,993 --> 00:33:18,163
It was only in 2010,
unexpectedly,
305
00:33:18,830 --> 00:33:22,334
a handful of king penguins
returned.
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00:33:24,169 --> 00:33:26,338
But the land's owner,
Cecilia Duran,
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00:33:26,880 --> 00:33:28,924
was not the first person
to find them.
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00:33:31,968 --> 00:33:35,347
Cecilia speaking Spanish
309
00:34:00,789 --> 00:34:03,917
Narrator: Since that moment,
she has dedicated her life
310
00:34:04,000 --> 00:34:06,086
to looking after these penguins.
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00:34:07,003 --> 00:34:10,382
Cecilia speaking Spanish
312
00:34:38,702 --> 00:34:41,913
Narrator: To keep them safe,
Cecilia has built an enclosure
313
00:34:41,997 --> 00:34:44,082
around the penguins'
breeding grounds.
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00:34:54,426 --> 00:34:56,720
Narrator: Visitors
are kept at a safe distance.
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00:34:58,847 --> 00:35:02,309
Ticket sales fund research
and conservation.
316
00:35:04,311 --> 00:35:07,188
Cecilia is so devoted
to protecting them,
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00:35:07,814 --> 00:35:11,151
she is known locally as
"the mother of penguins.
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00:35:15,113 --> 00:35:17,157
Cecilia speaking Spanish
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00:35:36,009 --> 00:35:40,513
The colony may be small,
but it's growing every year
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00:35:41,640 --> 00:35:44,517
under the vigilance
of its passionate protector.
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00:35:51,191 --> 00:35:53,443
King penguins are under
increasing threat
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00:35:53,526 --> 00:35:55,945
from climate change
and over-fishing.
323
00:35:59,616 --> 00:36:02,410
So their unexpected return
to Tierra del Fuego
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00:36:02,952 --> 00:36:04,788
is something to be celebrated.
325
00:36:10,627 --> 00:36:12,087
But where prey goes,
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00:36:12,712 --> 00:36:14,089
predators follow.
327
00:36:15,840 --> 00:36:20,637
And a fearsome penguin hunter
has arrived in Patagonia.
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00:36:41,116 --> 00:36:43,159
Narrator:
The San Rafael glacier.
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00:36:47,330 --> 00:36:49,165
Located in southern Chile,
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00:36:49,582 --> 00:36:52,627
hundreds of miles north
of the king penguin colony,
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00:36:54,129 --> 00:36:57,507
it empties into
an almost landlocked lagoon.
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00:37:02,846 --> 00:37:06,933
Because of the steepness
of this glacier and climate change,
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00:37:07,767 --> 00:37:09,436
a lot of ice falls here.
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00:37:16,317 --> 00:37:17,444
On average,
335
00:37:17,527 --> 00:37:21,114
a volume twice the size of
the Empire State Building
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00:37:21,740 --> 00:37:24,909
crashes into the lagoon
every day.
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00:37:26,244 --> 00:37:31,040
And the fractured ice flows hide
a formidable predator...
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00:37:35,253 --> 00:37:36,838
...a leopard seal.
339
00:37:38,715 --> 00:37:40,675
Normally, they live and breed
340
00:37:40,759 --> 00:37:43,136
almost exclusively
in the Antarctic...
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00:37:45,972 --> 00:37:49,225
...where penguins are one
of their main prey.
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00:38:09,871 --> 00:38:11,498
But in the San Rafael lagoon,
343
00:38:11,956 --> 00:38:14,626
more than 1,200 miles
from Antarctica,
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00:38:15,376 --> 00:38:16,836
there are no penguins,
345
00:38:17,837 --> 00:38:21,132
and it's a mystery how these
seals are surviving here.
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00:38:24,886 --> 00:38:26,888
On a mission to learn
more about them
347
00:38:27,388 --> 00:38:30,433
is national park ranger
Nicolas Fernandez.
348
00:38:32,477 --> 00:38:33,895
Nicolas speaking Spanish
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00:38:45,156 --> 00:38:47,534
Narrator: Although Nicolas doesn't
yet have the funds
350
00:38:47,617 --> 00:38:49,494
to analyze the seals' diet,
351
00:38:50,537 --> 00:38:52,372
he thinks he knows
what they're eating.
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00:38:54,874 --> 00:38:57,627
Large numbers
of Patagonian rock cod
353
00:38:57,710 --> 00:39:00,046
live just below
the glacier wall.
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00:39:03,675 --> 00:39:05,927
Speaking Spanish
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00:39:08,888 --> 00:39:10,473
Whenever there's an icefall,
356
00:39:10,849 --> 00:39:13,393
the leopard seals
swim directly for it.
357
00:39:21,609 --> 00:39:23,653
Nicolas suspects
the leopard seals
358
00:39:23,736 --> 00:39:26,489
are hunting fish
scattered by the impact.
359
00:39:35,957 --> 00:39:39,460
But his biggest discovery
has come from his observation
360
00:39:40,003 --> 00:39:41,838
of this particular seal.
361
00:40:07,488 --> 00:40:10,450
Narrator: Nicolas has proved this
is the most northerly
362
00:40:10,533 --> 00:40:14,245
established breeding population
of leopard seals on the planet.
363
00:40:22,670 --> 00:40:26,007
In a world where so many large
predators are disappearing,
364
00:40:27,342 --> 00:40:30,136
the arrival
of this incredible hunter
365
00:40:30,678 --> 00:40:33,681
into new territory
is remarkable.
366
00:40:39,938 --> 00:40:41,898
Nicolas speaking Spanish
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00:40:55,703 --> 00:40:57,997
Narrator:
Here in Patagonia's far south,
368
00:40:58,748 --> 00:41:01,042
life is making a comeback,
369
00:41:02,418 --> 00:41:05,338
returning home to habitats
once abandoned.
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00:41:08,174 --> 00:41:09,884
Growing in number.
371
00:41:13,513 --> 00:41:16,849
And even expanding
into new areas.
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00:41:19,102 --> 00:41:21,396
LGl TR
great challenges ahead.
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00:41:23,856 --> 00:41:25,858
But the people here
love this place
374
00:41:26,067 --> 00:41:28,069
and the life it sustains.
375
00:41:29,946 --> 00:41:32,699
With such passion
and commitment,
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00:41:34,325 --> 00:41:35,660
anything is possible.
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00:41:41,457 --> 00:41:45,336
Next on "Patagonia:
Life on the Edge of the World"...
378
00:41:46,087 --> 00:41:47,797
Bird chirps
379
00:41:47,880 --> 00:41:51,300
These are the forests
that time forgot โ-
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00:41:53,011 --> 00:41:57,181
home to creatures
both strange and wonderful.
381
00:42:01,102 --> 00:42:04,939
Amazing things happen
up in the trees.
28535
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