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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:09,810 --> 00:00:13,113 ♪ ♪ 2 00:00:15,682 --> 00:00:17,851 NARRATOR: This is the tropical fringe 3 00:00:17,885 --> 00:00:20,988 of Australia's Northern Territory, 4 00:00:21,021 --> 00:00:23,256 known as the Top End. 5 00:00:25,125 --> 00:00:27,528 It's a place where a monsoonal climate 6 00:00:27,561 --> 00:00:31,498 creates lush wetlands bursting with wildlife, 7 00:00:31,531 --> 00:00:34,201 and the landscape near here 8 00:00:34,234 --> 00:00:37,704 holds some of Australia's best-kept secrets. 9 00:00:47,781 --> 00:00:50,317 In Nitmiluk National Park, 10 00:00:50,350 --> 00:00:52,719 the Katherine River has carved a series 11 00:00:52,786 --> 00:00:55,522 of 13 spectacular gorges. 12 00:00:59,226 --> 00:01:02,562 By navigating through this ancient landscape, 13 00:01:02,595 --> 00:01:07,034 it's possible to reach a hidden cultural treasure. 14 00:01:07,868 --> 00:01:12,039 This is the land of the Jawoyn people, 15 00:01:12,072 --> 00:01:15,342 and their ancestors created a series of rock art galleries 16 00:01:15,375 --> 00:01:18,044 on the sandstone cliffs, 17 00:01:18,078 --> 00:01:22,383 some dating back 40,000 years. 18 00:01:22,416 --> 00:01:24,218 They are some of the best-preserved 19 00:01:24,251 --> 00:01:27,121 in the whole of Australia. 20 00:01:27,188 --> 00:01:29,723 The art depicts things of deep importance 21 00:01:29,757 --> 00:01:31,291 to their culture, 22 00:01:31,358 --> 00:01:33,960 including stories of creation 23 00:01:34,027 --> 00:01:36,630 and reveals how they may have lived and thought. 24 00:01:38,531 --> 00:01:41,435 It's just one of over 100,000 25 00:01:41,502 --> 00:01:44,038 rock art sites across the country, 26 00:01:44,071 --> 00:01:46,240 which together provide 27 00:01:46,306 --> 00:01:48,375 an extraordinary insight 28 00:01:48,408 --> 00:01:52,279 into one of the oldest living cultures on Earth. 29 00:01:55,382 --> 00:01:57,351 ♪ ♪ 30 00:01:57,384 --> 00:02:00,220 Australia's cultural history dates back 31 00:02:00,253 --> 00:02:03,156 tens of thousands of years, 32 00:02:03,223 --> 00:02:05,459 and it's in the heart of the continent 33 00:02:05,492 --> 00:02:07,394 that the most iconic symbol 34 00:02:07,427 --> 00:02:10,330 of this deep connection to the land can be found. 35 00:02:11,231 --> 00:02:13,100 In the remote central region 36 00:02:13,133 --> 00:02:15,235 stretching from north to south coasts, 37 00:02:15,269 --> 00:02:17,438 travel is tough. 38 00:02:17,471 --> 00:02:20,307 But those with a lust for adventure, 39 00:02:20,340 --> 00:02:22,476 can discover stunning national parks, 40 00:02:22,542 --> 00:02:26,280 explore towns lost in time, 41 00:02:26,313 --> 00:02:30,084 and observe a deadly predator in the wild. 42 00:02:30,117 --> 00:02:34,421 Here, life is dictated by the extremes of nature. 43 00:02:34,454 --> 00:02:36,456 But with some true Aussie grit, 44 00:02:36,490 --> 00:02:39,993 it's possible to succeed against the odds. 45 00:02:40,027 --> 00:02:43,263 Welcome to the Extreme Center. 46 00:02:51,272 --> 00:02:53,573 [engines revving] 47 00:02:56,310 --> 00:02:59,679 ♪ ♪ 48 00:03:03,317 --> 00:03:07,388 The Tiwi Islands are a chain of 11 islands 49 00:03:07,421 --> 00:03:11,091 in the far north of Australia, two of which are inhabited. 50 00:03:11,992 --> 00:03:14,027 They're a part of the Northern Territory, 51 00:03:14,060 --> 00:03:15,696 which has the highest proportion 52 00:03:15,729 --> 00:03:17,698 of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people 53 00:03:17,731 --> 00:03:20,401 relative to population size 54 00:03:20,434 --> 00:03:23,403 of all of Australia's states and internal territories. 55 00:03:24,705 --> 00:03:28,041 In fact, in the Tiwi Islands, 56 00:03:28,074 --> 00:03:31,679 nearly 90% of the inhabitants are Indigenous 57 00:03:31,712 --> 00:03:35,415 and most speak Tiwi as their first language. 58 00:03:36,550 --> 00:03:38,452 From 1636, 59 00:03:38,485 --> 00:03:42,155 a succession of Dutch merchants visited the islands 60 00:03:42,188 --> 00:03:45,860 but found a civilization so different from their own 61 00:03:45,893 --> 00:03:48,428 that they saw no opportunities for trade. 62 00:03:50,764 --> 00:03:54,368 Then, in 1824, the British established 63 00:03:54,401 --> 00:03:57,370 a military outpost called Fort Dundas. 64 00:03:57,437 --> 00:04:00,040 Suffering sickness and malnutrition 65 00:04:00,107 --> 00:04:03,410 and facing fierce resistance from the Tiwi population, 66 00:04:03,443 --> 00:04:07,281 just a few years later, the fort was abandoned. 67 00:04:07,347 --> 00:04:09,116 As a result, 68 00:04:09,150 --> 00:04:12,419 the Tiwi culture is still vibrant, 69 00:04:12,453 --> 00:04:14,255 with the people maintaining a deep connection 70 00:04:14,288 --> 00:04:15,923 to the land and sea, 71 00:04:15,956 --> 00:04:18,091 continuing traditional activities 72 00:04:18,124 --> 00:04:20,860 such as hunting and fishing. 73 00:04:21,962 --> 00:04:26,166 Today, Shane and John are looking for mud crabs. 74 00:04:30,937 --> 00:04:33,373 With the tide low, it's possible to wade out 75 00:04:33,406 --> 00:04:35,008 on the sandbanks where they live. 76 00:04:38,278 --> 00:04:41,415 But it's a dangerous thing to do, 77 00:04:41,448 --> 00:04:45,852 because these waters are home to a fearsome apex predator-- 78 00:04:47,454 --> 00:04:49,789 the saltwater crocodile. 79 00:04:55,428 --> 00:04:58,766 Using knowledge handed down through the generations, 80 00:04:58,799 --> 00:05:01,668 the men head out with spears crafted by hand. 81 00:05:04,371 --> 00:05:06,507 After a brief search, 82 00:05:06,540 --> 00:05:08,041 they find what they're looking for. 83 00:05:12,079 --> 00:05:13,680 Back on the beach, 84 00:05:13,714 --> 00:05:16,483 the crab provides a tasty snack for their family. 85 00:05:18,084 --> 00:05:20,521 It's a sustainable way of taking from the sea 86 00:05:20,554 --> 00:05:22,923 that leaves no impact on marine life. 87 00:05:24,858 --> 00:05:26,827 A far cry from commercial fishing 88 00:05:26,860 --> 00:05:29,563 in other parts of Australia and the world. 89 00:05:35,235 --> 00:05:37,638 [birds tweeting] 90 00:05:37,671 --> 00:05:40,975 The Tiwi Islands receives the highest annual rainfall 91 00:05:41,008 --> 00:05:42,609 in the Northern Territory. 92 00:05:42,643 --> 00:05:47,381 Around 90% of it falls in the wet season. 93 00:05:47,447 --> 00:05:49,650 However, in the long dry season, 94 00:05:49,683 --> 00:05:53,087 the lush forests and bush transform 95 00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:56,623 into one of the most fire-prone ecosystems on Earth. 96 00:05:56,656 --> 00:05:59,593 [fire crackling] 97 00:06:08,702 --> 00:06:11,038 For at least 11,000 years, 98 00:06:11,071 --> 00:06:13,707 Tiwi people have managed the land 99 00:06:13,740 --> 00:06:16,544 using traditional burning. 100 00:06:16,577 --> 00:06:18,546 And the technique is still being used today. 101 00:06:18,579 --> 00:06:20,581 [helicopter whirring] 102 00:06:20,614 --> 00:06:23,717 On the ground, Tiwi rangers use drip torches 103 00:06:23,751 --> 00:06:26,519 to create lines of fire in the bush. 104 00:06:29,423 --> 00:06:32,560 While from a helicopter, incendiary capsules 105 00:06:32,593 --> 00:06:36,230 are dropped into specially-targeted areas. 106 00:06:36,263 --> 00:06:38,231 The teams must work fast, 107 00:06:38,265 --> 00:06:40,734 keeping an eye out for changes in the wind 108 00:06:40,767 --> 00:06:44,504 and ensuring the blaze doesn't get out of control. 109 00:06:44,538 --> 00:06:47,741 Burns like this are fraught with danger, 110 00:06:47,807 --> 00:06:49,743 but fighting fire with fire 111 00:06:49,776 --> 00:06:53,413 is essential to maintaining the health of the forest. 112 00:06:53,480 --> 00:06:56,049 It not only reduces fuel loads, 113 00:06:56,083 --> 00:06:58,118 preventing massive destructive wildfires 114 00:06:58,151 --> 00:07:00,554 later in the dry season, 115 00:07:00,588 --> 00:07:03,356 but also increases nutrients in the soil, 116 00:07:03,390 --> 00:07:07,494 and helps maintain critical wildlife habitats. 117 00:07:07,527 --> 00:07:10,998 On the Tiwi Islands, the use of modern technology 118 00:07:11,031 --> 00:07:14,034 combined with ancient knowledge of the land 119 00:07:14,067 --> 00:07:16,937 is proving to be a powerful combination. 120 00:07:23,510 --> 00:07:26,180 Tiwi traditions are integral 121 00:07:26,213 --> 00:07:27,714 to life on the islands. 122 00:07:29,015 --> 00:07:30,651 Every Tiwi islander is born 123 00:07:30,684 --> 00:07:33,186 into one of four kinship groups, 124 00:07:33,253 --> 00:07:36,023 handed down through the matrilineal line, 125 00:07:36,056 --> 00:07:38,191 and one of eight clans 126 00:07:38,258 --> 00:07:40,460 handed down through the patrilineal line. 127 00:07:41,762 --> 00:07:43,864 A person's kinship group and clan guide 128 00:07:43,897 --> 00:07:46,467 many aspects of life, 129 00:07:46,500 --> 00:07:48,468 including ceremonies. 130 00:07:49,469 --> 00:07:53,573 The most important of which is called Pukumani. 131 00:07:55,709 --> 00:07:59,313 Held 12 months or more after a person's death, 132 00:07:59,346 --> 00:08:00,914 it marks the end of their existence 133 00:08:00,947 --> 00:08:02,616 in the physical world. 134 00:08:11,825 --> 00:08:14,261 At the end of the ceremony, 135 00:08:14,294 --> 00:08:16,030 poles called Tutini 136 00:08:16,063 --> 00:08:19,066 made from cured Kartukini or Ironwood 137 00:08:19,099 --> 00:08:21,568 are placed around the burial site. 138 00:08:27,408 --> 00:08:31,044 The design is decided according to the person's clan 139 00:08:31,078 --> 00:08:33,047 and can only be carved by the deceased's 140 00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:35,282 brother-in-law or sister-in-law. 141 00:08:38,118 --> 00:08:40,087 The ceremony is not only a celebration 142 00:08:40,120 --> 00:08:42,289 of the person's life, 143 00:08:42,356 --> 00:08:44,625 but prepares their spirit for the journey 144 00:08:44,692 --> 00:08:46,793 to its homeland. 145 00:08:51,064 --> 00:08:56,736 ♪ ♪ 146 00:09:02,610 --> 00:09:04,445 The British may have failed to establish 147 00:09:04,478 --> 00:09:06,146 an outpost in the 19th century... 148 00:09:07,814 --> 00:09:10,818 but in 1911, the Roman Catholic Church 149 00:09:10,851 --> 00:09:13,320 established a mission at Wurrumiyanga 150 00:09:13,353 --> 00:09:15,222 on Bathurst Island. 151 00:09:18,325 --> 00:09:22,762 Then, in 1941, a church was built, 152 00:09:22,796 --> 00:09:24,965 painstakingly constructed out of timber 153 00:09:24,999 --> 00:09:27,367 transported from across the islands. 154 00:09:29,169 --> 00:09:31,705 It soon became embedded in island life 155 00:09:31,738 --> 00:09:34,575 by learning to accept a fusion of Catholicism 156 00:09:34,608 --> 00:09:36,443 and Tiwi spirituality. 157 00:09:38,546 --> 00:09:40,781 Unlike many churches on the mainland, 158 00:09:40,814 --> 00:09:42,783 it allowed traditional singing and dancing 159 00:09:42,816 --> 00:09:44,918 as part of the Catholic services 160 00:09:44,952 --> 00:09:47,387 and was more accepting of local customs. 161 00:09:49,990 --> 00:09:52,626 Tutini were even installed inside, 162 00:09:52,659 --> 00:09:54,327 forming the legs of the altar. 163 00:09:56,430 --> 00:09:59,166 Services here ceased in the early 2000s, 164 00:09:59,200 --> 00:10:01,801 transferring to a new church nearby. 165 00:10:01,868 --> 00:10:04,738 But today, there's a campaign on 166 00:10:04,771 --> 00:10:07,307 to raise money for the restoration of a building 167 00:10:07,340 --> 00:10:10,810 which holds huge cultural and historical significance. 168 00:10:12,546 --> 00:10:16,116 [clapping in rhythm] 169 00:10:16,150 --> 00:10:18,519 Missionaries didn't just introduce 170 00:10:18,586 --> 00:10:21,355 the Catholic religion to the islanders. 171 00:10:21,422 --> 00:10:25,325 In 1941, a priest called Brother John Pye 172 00:10:25,359 --> 00:10:29,463 brought across a new sport from the mainland-- 173 00:10:29,496 --> 00:10:31,698 Australian rules football. 174 00:10:33,934 --> 00:10:37,370 The Tiwi islanders were captivated by it. 175 00:10:39,606 --> 00:10:41,308 The game involves passing a ball 176 00:10:41,374 --> 00:10:43,543 between teammates using either a handball... 177 00:10:45,979 --> 00:10:48,082 or a kick. 178 00:10:49,149 --> 00:10:51,618 If the ball is kicked between the center two posts 179 00:10:51,651 --> 00:10:53,120 without being touched, 180 00:10:53,154 --> 00:10:56,223 it's a goal, and the team scores six points. 181 00:10:59,326 --> 00:11:02,096 If the ball passes through the outer posts, 182 00:11:02,162 --> 00:11:06,100 it's called a "behind," and the team gets one point. 183 00:11:06,166 --> 00:11:08,201 Despite having a population 184 00:11:08,235 --> 00:11:10,003 of less than two and a half thousand, 185 00:11:10,036 --> 00:11:13,540 the Tiwi Islands have produced several star players 186 00:11:13,607 --> 00:11:16,743 who have gone on to play in the national league. 187 00:11:16,810 --> 00:11:19,413 In fact, the islands have 188 00:11:19,480 --> 00:11:21,849 the highest community participation rate 189 00:11:21,882 --> 00:11:25,219 in Australia, with over 35% of the population 190 00:11:25,252 --> 00:11:26,786 taking to the oval. 191 00:11:29,056 --> 00:11:31,892 Today, after a hard-fought battle, 192 00:11:31,925 --> 00:11:34,328 the game between local rivals 193 00:11:34,361 --> 00:11:37,831 the Tapalinga Superstars and the Muluwurri Magpies 194 00:11:37,865 --> 00:11:40,267 ends in a draw. 195 00:11:44,205 --> 00:11:47,841 [players chattering] 196 00:11:49,210 --> 00:11:51,512 A short flight across the Clarence Strait 197 00:11:51,545 --> 00:11:53,714 is the port city of Darwin. 198 00:11:53,781 --> 00:11:55,549 During World War II, 199 00:11:55,616 --> 00:11:57,351 it was a military base for the Allies, 200 00:11:57,384 --> 00:12:00,754 making it the target of a deadly bombing raid 201 00:12:00,821 --> 00:12:03,957 often known as Australia's Pearl Harbor. 202 00:12:07,427 --> 00:12:11,265 ♪ ♪ 203 00:12:11,298 --> 00:12:14,801 Darwin is the capital of the Northern Territory. 204 00:12:16,237 --> 00:12:18,205 Its isolated location meant the British 205 00:12:18,238 --> 00:12:20,240 didn't establish a permanent settlement here 206 00:12:20,273 --> 00:12:22,442 until 1869, 207 00:12:22,509 --> 00:12:23,844 over 80 years 208 00:12:23,878 --> 00:12:25,979 after the First Fleet landed in Sydney. 209 00:12:28,048 --> 00:12:30,851 The first grand public building to be constructed 210 00:12:30,884 --> 00:12:32,886 was Government House, 211 00:12:32,920 --> 00:12:36,890 built as a residence for the territory's administrator. 212 00:12:36,924 --> 00:12:40,260 Throughout its history, it survived tropical cyclones 213 00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:42,830 and even bombing raids, 214 00:12:42,863 --> 00:12:46,266 because this is a city shaped by war. 215 00:12:49,236 --> 00:12:51,205 In the 1930s, with World War II 216 00:12:51,238 --> 00:12:53,874 looking increasingly likely, 217 00:12:53,908 --> 00:12:55,376 the British decided to build a base 218 00:12:55,409 --> 00:12:58,445 for their eastern fleet in Darwin. 219 00:12:58,512 --> 00:13:02,650 Thousands of Allied troops were moved into the area. 220 00:13:02,716 --> 00:13:05,953 Then, in December 1941, 221 00:13:05,986 --> 00:13:09,489 over two years after war broke out in Europe, 222 00:13:09,523 --> 00:13:12,659 the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor. 223 00:13:12,693 --> 00:13:14,662 The conflict spread to the Pacific, 224 00:13:14,728 --> 00:13:17,697 and Darwin was put right in the firing line. 225 00:13:19,266 --> 00:13:23,637 On the morning of February 19th, 1942, 226 00:13:23,671 --> 00:13:29,142 188 Japanese planes launched a surprise attack. 227 00:13:29,175 --> 00:13:33,113 Eleven ships were sunk, 30 aircraft destroyed, 228 00:13:33,147 --> 00:13:36,850 and Darwin's infrastructure was badly damaged. 229 00:13:36,916 --> 00:13:40,487 It was the first-ever enemy attack on Australian soil 230 00:13:40,521 --> 00:13:44,058 in the history of the Commonwealth. 231 00:13:44,091 --> 00:13:47,327 235 lives were lost, 232 00:13:47,361 --> 00:13:50,697 nearly half of them U.S. servicemen. 233 00:13:56,103 --> 00:13:59,472 When the war finally ended, many evacuees 234 00:13:59,506 --> 00:14:02,609 returned to Darwin to help rebuild their city. 235 00:14:05,045 --> 00:14:08,182 Today, it's a laid-back hub for tourism 236 00:14:08,215 --> 00:14:11,051 and a popular stop for cruise ships. 237 00:14:11,118 --> 00:14:15,889 It's also home to a thriving multicultural population. 238 00:14:15,956 --> 00:14:18,058 And at the heart of this melting pot 239 00:14:18,125 --> 00:14:21,829 is the Mindil Beach Sunset Market. 240 00:14:21,862 --> 00:14:23,864 Running throughout the dry season 241 00:14:23,897 --> 00:14:25,866 from the end of April through to October, 242 00:14:25,899 --> 00:14:29,769 this is Darwin's own version of a street food market. 243 00:14:31,638 --> 00:14:33,674 There are over 150 stalls 244 00:14:33,707 --> 00:14:37,010 and dozens of delicious cuisine to choose from. 245 00:14:39,179 --> 00:14:44,819 Here, travelers and locals can soak up the vibrant atmosphere 246 00:14:44,852 --> 00:14:48,522 and take in one of the stunning tropical sunsets 247 00:14:48,556 --> 00:14:50,891 that this city is famous for. 248 00:14:53,059 --> 00:14:55,462 [birds cawing] 249 00:14:59,032 --> 00:15:00,967 Darwin is in the tropical fringe 250 00:15:01,001 --> 00:15:02,936 of Australia's northern coast, 251 00:15:02,969 --> 00:15:05,238 known as the Top End. 252 00:15:09,609 --> 00:15:14,448 The area's crown jewel is Kakadu. 253 00:15:14,481 --> 00:15:18,218 It's Australia's second-largest national park, 254 00:15:18,251 --> 00:15:21,922 stretching out over seven and a half thousand square miles. 255 00:15:23,623 --> 00:15:25,426 For the Aboriginal people who've lived here 256 00:15:25,459 --> 00:15:28,929 and managed this land for at least 65,000 years, 257 00:15:28,962 --> 00:15:32,933 it has huge cultural importance. 258 00:15:32,966 --> 00:15:36,236 Running through it are the Alligator Rivers, 259 00:15:36,270 --> 00:15:40,140 named by Phillip Parker King in 1818 260 00:15:40,207 --> 00:15:42,776 who misidentified the reptiles 261 00:15:42,809 --> 00:15:45,446 lurking in its waters. 262 00:15:45,479 --> 00:15:47,414 This is the habitat 263 00:15:47,447 --> 00:15:50,384 of an estimated 10,000 freshwater 264 00:15:50,417 --> 00:15:53,120 and saltwater crocodiles. 265 00:15:53,187 --> 00:15:56,090 Although closely related to alligators, 266 00:15:56,123 --> 00:15:59,593 they have a distinctive V-shaped snout. 267 00:15:59,626 --> 00:16:02,996 Also, saltwater crocodiles 268 00:16:03,029 --> 00:16:05,966 can grow much bigger. 269 00:16:05,999 --> 00:16:08,268 In fact, it's the biggest reptile 270 00:16:08,302 --> 00:16:10,137 on the planet, 271 00:16:10,170 --> 00:16:13,007 with some reaching up to 23 feet long 272 00:16:13,074 --> 00:16:17,344 and weighing more than 2,500 pounds. 273 00:16:19,713 --> 00:16:23,817 For Aboriginal people, they're sacred beings, 274 00:16:23,850 --> 00:16:26,119 and for some Aboriginal groups, 275 00:16:26,153 --> 00:16:30,390 they are linked to an ancient ancestor named Ginga 276 00:16:30,457 --> 00:16:34,060 who created the striking sandstone rock formations 277 00:16:34,127 --> 00:16:36,329 found throughout the area. 278 00:16:38,565 --> 00:16:41,702 While sleeping by a river, Ginga was engulfed 279 00:16:41,735 --> 00:16:44,105 by a bushfire and took to the water 280 00:16:44,138 --> 00:16:46,806 to extinguish the flames. 281 00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:49,176 Lumpy scars formed on his back, 282 00:16:49,209 --> 00:16:52,512 and he transformed into a crocodile. 283 00:16:53,347 --> 00:16:57,651 Today, these animals are still called Ginga 284 00:16:57,685 --> 00:16:59,519 by the Bininj Mungguy people. 285 00:17:08,195 --> 00:17:10,564 An incredible array of birdlife 286 00:17:10,597 --> 00:17:13,133 also calls these waterways home. 287 00:17:14,268 --> 00:17:17,204 From pelicans to magpie geese, 288 00:17:17,237 --> 00:17:20,106 there are over 280 different species here. 289 00:17:21,575 --> 00:17:23,410 During the tropical summer, 290 00:17:23,477 --> 00:17:26,346 they fill the wetlands for the start of breeding season. 291 00:17:28,415 --> 00:17:31,251 [birds tweeting, cawing] 292 00:17:36,557 --> 00:17:39,459 ♪ ♪ 293 00:17:44,264 --> 00:17:46,934 This magical park draws 294 00:17:47,001 --> 00:17:50,170 up to 200,000 visitors every year, 295 00:17:50,203 --> 00:17:52,072 venturing into its depths by boat 296 00:17:52,139 --> 00:17:54,174 or four-wheel drive. 297 00:17:58,579 --> 00:18:01,448 But some of its most inaccessible corners, 298 00:18:01,481 --> 00:18:05,586 like the 656-foot Jim Jim Falls, 299 00:18:05,619 --> 00:18:08,455 are best enjoyed from the air. 300 00:18:19,466 --> 00:18:21,234 ♪ ♪ 301 00:18:23,437 --> 00:18:26,607 Travel in the vast Northern Territory takes time, 302 00:18:26,640 --> 00:18:28,475 and for those living in remote communities 303 00:18:28,508 --> 00:18:30,277 or on cattle stations, 304 00:18:30,310 --> 00:18:32,045 isolation can be a problem. 305 00:18:35,249 --> 00:18:37,951 For chaplains Niall and Michelle Gibson, 306 00:18:37,984 --> 00:18:40,287 to be able to reach these communities, 307 00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:42,622 they must take to the skies. 308 00:18:43,357 --> 00:18:45,626 Today, this husband and wife team 309 00:18:45,659 --> 00:18:47,594 are flying in to meet the Sullivan family, 310 00:18:47,628 --> 00:18:51,631 who run a cattle station called Cave Creek. 311 00:18:51,665 --> 00:18:53,767 These chaplains provide spiritual support 312 00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:55,836 across Australia's north 313 00:18:55,903 --> 00:19:00,073 and sometimes conduct weddings or religious ceremonies. 314 00:19:00,107 --> 00:19:03,477 But often, a good chat over a cup of tea 315 00:19:03,510 --> 00:19:05,946 is enough to help people feel less alone. 316 00:19:08,582 --> 00:19:11,685 Soon though, it's time to head to their next appointment 317 00:19:11,718 --> 00:19:14,121 and take to the heavens once more. 318 00:19:14,154 --> 00:19:16,456 [engine humming] 319 00:19:21,362 --> 00:19:24,031 Flying into the interior of the continent, 320 00:19:24,064 --> 00:19:26,600 the landscape transforms. 321 00:19:26,666 --> 00:19:29,470 This is Australia's Red Center, 322 00:19:29,503 --> 00:19:31,839 home to an iconic landmark 323 00:19:31,872 --> 00:19:33,374 which is considered to be 324 00:19:33,441 --> 00:19:35,342 the spiritual heart of the nation. 325 00:19:39,045 --> 00:19:41,014 ♪ ♪ 326 00:19:43,317 --> 00:19:46,520 Heading into the Red Center of Australia, 327 00:19:46,553 --> 00:19:51,926 sun-blasted rock and sand dunes fill the horizon. 328 00:19:51,992 --> 00:19:54,094 This parched desert environment 329 00:19:54,161 --> 00:19:57,864 often gets just six inches of rain a year. 330 00:19:57,898 --> 00:20:01,368 Although previously populated by Aboriginal peoples, 331 00:20:01,401 --> 00:20:04,104 nowadays, large parts of Central Australia 332 00:20:04,138 --> 00:20:06,473 are uninhabited. 333 00:20:06,506 --> 00:20:09,343 But in the middle of this unforgiving landscape 334 00:20:09,376 --> 00:20:12,379 is a bustling desert town, 335 00:20:12,413 --> 00:20:13,580 Alice Springs. 336 00:20:14,915 --> 00:20:17,317 The town started as a station 337 00:20:17,351 --> 00:20:19,353 on a groundbreaking telegraph line, 338 00:20:19,387 --> 00:20:21,922 completed in 1872. 339 00:20:23,723 --> 00:20:27,061 This was one of 12 stations which relayed signals 340 00:20:27,094 --> 00:20:29,263 right through the heart of Australia 341 00:20:29,330 --> 00:20:32,566 along a line stretching nearly 2,000 miles 342 00:20:32,599 --> 00:20:35,435 between the north and south coasts. 343 00:20:37,171 --> 00:20:39,573 The line transformed Australia's relationship 344 00:20:39,639 --> 00:20:41,875 with the rest of the world. 345 00:20:41,909 --> 00:20:44,378 Instead of messages taking two or three months 346 00:20:44,411 --> 00:20:46,346 to reach London by boat, 347 00:20:46,379 --> 00:20:48,716 they could be sent by telegraph 348 00:20:48,749 --> 00:20:51,551 in around seven hours. 349 00:20:51,618 --> 00:20:54,454 It's considered to be the greatest engineering feat 350 00:20:54,521 --> 00:20:56,489 of 19th-century Australia. 351 00:20:59,126 --> 00:21:01,428 Despite being named Alice Springs, 352 00:21:01,461 --> 00:21:03,364 the town's drinking water doesn't come 353 00:21:03,430 --> 00:21:06,366 from a spring at all, but an aquifer deep underground. 354 00:21:08,569 --> 00:21:12,072 And another aquifer is used to irrigate a sporting oasis. 355 00:21:12,105 --> 00:21:15,442 A golf course in the middle of the desert. 356 00:21:15,475 --> 00:21:19,112 The Alice Springs Golf Club opened in 1985 357 00:21:19,145 --> 00:21:22,449 when Australian golfing legend Greg Norman teed off 358 00:21:22,482 --> 00:21:24,618 in an exhibition match to mark the occasion. 359 00:21:27,288 --> 00:21:29,623 In the shadow of the MacDonnell Ranges, 360 00:21:29,656 --> 00:21:31,291 it's one of the finest desert courses 361 00:21:31,324 --> 00:21:33,827 in the southern hemisphere. 362 00:21:33,861 --> 00:21:36,630 And it presents a unique challenge. 363 00:21:36,663 --> 00:21:38,498 The hot desert temperatures 364 00:21:38,565 --> 00:21:41,935 mean that golf balls carry further than normal. 365 00:21:41,969 --> 00:21:45,005 Shots can bounce off the sun-baked greens. 366 00:21:46,974 --> 00:21:49,777 And if a player strays from the narrow fairways, 367 00:21:49,810 --> 00:21:52,779 the natural environment takes over 368 00:21:52,812 --> 00:21:57,251 from rocky rough, to bunkers filled with desert sand. 369 00:21:58,118 --> 00:22:01,055 However, keeping the course in tip-top condition 370 00:22:01,121 --> 00:22:03,390 requires a lot of water. 371 00:22:03,423 --> 00:22:06,559 With water levels in the aquifer in gradual decline, 372 00:22:06,626 --> 00:22:08,729 the golf course is looking at ways 373 00:22:08,796 --> 00:22:11,364 to reduce its environmental impact. 374 00:22:13,233 --> 00:22:16,136 ♪ ♪ 375 00:22:20,875 --> 00:22:24,044 For those seeking a more extreme sport, 376 00:22:24,077 --> 00:22:26,180 there is an alternative. 377 00:22:26,213 --> 00:22:28,248 Every year, Alice Springs hosts 378 00:22:28,315 --> 00:22:30,384 an adrenaline-filled event 379 00:22:30,451 --> 00:22:32,953 which provides a rush like no other. 380 00:22:34,721 --> 00:22:37,257 The Tatts Finke Desert Race. 381 00:22:39,092 --> 00:22:41,828 In this two-day, off-road battle, 382 00:22:41,862 --> 00:22:44,664 motorbikes, cars, and buggies 383 00:22:44,698 --> 00:22:46,867 race through the desert from Alice Springs 384 00:22:46,900 --> 00:22:49,469 to the remote community of Finke, 385 00:22:49,503 --> 00:22:52,673 140 miles away. 386 00:22:52,706 --> 00:22:54,208 It's considered to be Australia's 387 00:22:54,241 --> 00:22:56,710 toughest off-road race. 388 00:22:56,777 --> 00:23:00,414 The event dates back to 1976, 389 00:23:00,480 --> 00:23:03,250 when a group of motorcycle enthusiasts 390 00:23:03,283 --> 00:23:05,452 decided to test their skills 391 00:23:05,519 --> 00:23:09,389 by racing from Alice Springs to Finke and back. 392 00:23:09,423 --> 00:23:11,926 Then, in 1988, 393 00:23:11,959 --> 00:23:15,295 cars and buggies were allowed to compete, 394 00:23:15,362 --> 00:23:17,297 and a healthy rivalry developed 395 00:23:17,331 --> 00:23:20,801 between those on two wheels and those on four. 396 00:23:20,834 --> 00:23:23,603 The bikes won for 11 years straight. 397 00:23:23,637 --> 00:23:26,106 But then, in 1999, 398 00:23:26,140 --> 00:23:28,775 a buggy finally took the title. 399 00:23:28,809 --> 00:23:32,546 These days, riders and drivers from all over the world 400 00:23:32,579 --> 00:23:35,582 compete in two separate competitions, 401 00:23:35,616 --> 00:23:38,585 one for cars and one for bikes, 402 00:23:38,618 --> 00:23:42,389 and the winners of each crowned king of the desert. 403 00:23:49,497 --> 00:23:51,364 Moving southwest, 404 00:23:51,431 --> 00:23:54,634 away from the irrigated region of Alice Springs, 405 00:23:54,668 --> 00:23:58,572 the landscape turns to desert once more. 406 00:23:58,605 --> 00:24:01,242 Just over 200 miles away, 407 00:24:01,308 --> 00:24:04,378 rising abruptly out of the land, 408 00:24:04,444 --> 00:24:07,681 is Australia's most famous natural wonder... 409 00:24:12,018 --> 00:24:14,421 Uluru. 410 00:24:14,487 --> 00:24:17,191 This extraordinary landmark 411 00:24:17,224 --> 00:24:18,892 is considered to be the cultural 412 00:24:18,926 --> 00:24:21,328 and spiritual heart of the nation. 413 00:24:22,896 --> 00:24:25,732 At over 1,100 feet high 414 00:24:25,766 --> 00:24:29,803 and extending over a mile and a half below the surface, 415 00:24:29,836 --> 00:24:32,606 this is one of the largest monoliths in the world. 416 00:24:34,508 --> 00:24:37,678 For Anangu, whose land this is, 417 00:24:37,711 --> 00:24:40,481 Uluru was created by their ancestors 418 00:24:40,514 --> 00:24:43,150 at the beginning of time. 419 00:24:43,183 --> 00:24:47,220 To them, Uluru is a living being. 420 00:24:48,989 --> 00:24:51,058 The average annual rainfall here 421 00:24:51,091 --> 00:24:53,427 is less than 12 inches. 422 00:24:53,494 --> 00:24:56,230 But on the rare occasion the heavens open, 423 00:24:56,297 --> 00:24:58,999 this magical rock transforms. 424 00:25:00,800 --> 00:25:02,702 Glistening waterfalls appear... 425 00:25:05,138 --> 00:25:07,108 and Uluru's red color, 426 00:25:07,141 --> 00:25:09,710 caused by high levels of iron oxide, 427 00:25:09,743 --> 00:25:10,944 gets darker. 428 00:25:13,113 --> 00:25:15,916 To Anangu, it's a sign of rebirth 429 00:25:15,949 --> 00:25:17,617 and renewal. 430 00:25:21,154 --> 00:25:26,593 Uluru remained unknown to Europeans until 1872. 431 00:25:26,627 --> 00:25:32,766 Then, in the 1930s, the first tourists began to arrive. 432 00:25:32,799 --> 00:25:36,236 To help develop this fledgling tourism industry, 433 00:25:36,270 --> 00:25:39,740 the government formed the Ayers Rock National Park, 434 00:25:39,773 --> 00:25:43,110 and Anangu were discouraged from visiting. 435 00:25:43,143 --> 00:25:45,746 For many years, Anangu lobbied for the rights 436 00:25:45,779 --> 00:25:47,948 to their ancestral lands, 437 00:25:48,014 --> 00:25:51,284 until finally, in 1985, 438 00:25:51,318 --> 00:25:54,754 the title deeds for the park were transferred. 439 00:25:56,156 --> 00:25:58,292 Since 2019, 440 00:25:58,359 --> 00:26:00,794 it's been forbidden to climb Uluru 441 00:26:00,860 --> 00:26:04,664 out of respect for its spiritual importance. 442 00:26:09,970 --> 00:26:11,972 Bordering the Northern Territory 443 00:26:12,005 --> 00:26:14,507 is the state of South Australia. 444 00:26:14,574 --> 00:26:17,110 Here, the land gets even drier, 445 00:26:17,143 --> 00:26:18,979 and the temperatures hotter. 446 00:26:19,012 --> 00:26:21,949 So the people here have come up with a practical way 447 00:26:21,982 --> 00:26:24,485 to escape the blistering summer heat. 448 00:26:24,518 --> 00:26:27,053 They've gone underground. 449 00:26:32,659 --> 00:26:34,594 ♪ ♪ 450 00:26:37,898 --> 00:26:41,201 South Australia is the driest state in the country. 451 00:26:43,837 --> 00:26:45,705 It's home to Lake Eyre, 452 00:26:45,772 --> 00:26:47,808 the deepest part of the continent, 453 00:26:47,841 --> 00:26:50,844 at nearly 50 feet below sea level. 454 00:26:50,911 --> 00:26:52,813 For the vast majority of the time, 455 00:26:52,846 --> 00:26:55,548 this lake is empty. 456 00:26:55,615 --> 00:26:57,551 On average, it fills with water 457 00:26:57,618 --> 00:27:00,755 just twice every hundred years. 458 00:27:00,821 --> 00:27:02,889 But beneath the surface 459 00:27:02,923 --> 00:27:05,458 lies a huge hidden water source... 460 00:27:07,928 --> 00:27:10,230 the Great Artesian Basin. 461 00:27:12,166 --> 00:27:14,701 This immense aquifer covers an area 462 00:27:14,734 --> 00:27:18,438 of over 650,000 square miles, 463 00:27:18,505 --> 00:27:21,542 around a fifth of the Australian continent, 464 00:27:21,575 --> 00:27:23,411 and it holds enough water 465 00:27:23,444 --> 00:27:28,916 to fill Sydney Harbour 130,000 times. 466 00:27:28,983 --> 00:27:32,218 The water is contained in a layer of permeable sandstone 467 00:27:32,252 --> 00:27:35,056 nearly 10,000 feet underground. 468 00:27:35,089 --> 00:27:36,857 But in a few places, 469 00:27:36,890 --> 00:27:40,193 this ancient water breaks through to the surface. 470 00:27:42,763 --> 00:27:47,067 These are the Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs. 471 00:27:47,100 --> 00:27:49,203 Mound springs have been known to Aboriginal people 472 00:27:49,236 --> 00:27:51,738 for many thousands of years 473 00:27:51,772 --> 00:27:53,207 and were stops along trading routes 474 00:27:53,240 --> 00:27:55,709 through Central Australia. 475 00:27:55,742 --> 00:27:57,878 When the Europeans arrived, 476 00:27:57,911 --> 00:27:59,913 this ancient knowledge was observed. 477 00:28:01,014 --> 00:28:03,316 It meant that in 1862, 478 00:28:03,350 --> 00:28:06,654 a Scottish explorer named John McDouall Stuart 479 00:28:06,687 --> 00:28:09,489 was able to cross the interior of the continent 480 00:28:09,523 --> 00:28:12,126 from south to north and back again. 481 00:28:12,927 --> 00:28:15,462 The presence of reliable water sources 482 00:28:15,495 --> 00:28:17,931 soon sparked the interest of the state government. 483 00:28:20,501 --> 00:28:23,470 Water made building a railroad possible, 484 00:28:23,504 --> 00:28:25,439 as steam locomotives had somewhere 485 00:28:25,472 --> 00:28:26,907 to fill up their tanks en route. 486 00:28:29,309 --> 00:28:32,680 Construction began in 1877, 487 00:28:32,746 --> 00:28:34,648 from Port Augusta on the south coast, 488 00:28:34,714 --> 00:28:36,650 And in 1882, 489 00:28:36,717 --> 00:28:38,952 the line reached the town of Farina, 490 00:28:38,985 --> 00:28:41,922 around 200 miles away. 491 00:28:41,956 --> 00:28:45,493 And it's possible to explore the remains 492 00:28:45,559 --> 00:28:48,395 of this abandoned outback town. 493 00:28:49,162 --> 00:28:52,032 For a time, this remote outpost 494 00:28:52,099 --> 00:28:54,335 was a thriving community. 495 00:28:54,368 --> 00:28:57,104 Then, in the 1950s, 496 00:28:57,138 --> 00:28:59,974 diesel locomotives arrived in Australia, 497 00:29:00,040 --> 00:29:02,743 hastening the town's demise. 498 00:29:02,810 --> 00:29:05,346 With trains no longer reliant on water, 499 00:29:05,379 --> 00:29:08,015 a new line was built to the west, 500 00:29:08,048 --> 00:29:09,817 following a more direct path 501 00:29:09,850 --> 00:29:12,519 across the continent to Alice Springs. 502 00:29:12,552 --> 00:29:16,523 By 1967, Farina had been abandoned, 503 00:29:16,557 --> 00:29:18,259 and in the 1980s, 504 00:29:18,325 --> 00:29:20,260 the rail line officially closed. 505 00:29:22,963 --> 00:29:26,367 Today, it's possible to travel from Adelaide, 506 00:29:26,400 --> 00:29:28,202 the capital of South Australia, 507 00:29:28,235 --> 00:29:30,004 all the way to Darwin 508 00:29:30,037 --> 00:29:32,172 in the Northern Territory, by rail. 509 00:29:32,206 --> 00:29:33,841 [train horn blaring] 510 00:29:33,874 --> 00:29:37,010 This 1,851-mile journey 511 00:29:37,044 --> 00:29:39,046 takes 54 hours 512 00:29:39,079 --> 00:29:42,415 and passes through diverse and spectacular landscapes. 513 00:29:44,118 --> 00:29:46,186 The train is called the Ghan, 514 00:29:46,220 --> 00:29:48,088 in honor of the Afghan camel drivers 515 00:29:48,155 --> 00:29:50,024 who helped European exploration 516 00:29:50,057 --> 00:29:52,092 of the continent's remote interior 517 00:29:52,159 --> 00:29:54,060 back in the 19th century. 518 00:29:55,996 --> 00:29:58,932 ♪ ♪ 519 00:30:01,034 --> 00:30:05,506 A popular stop along the Ghan is the town of Coober Pedy. 520 00:30:05,539 --> 00:30:08,208 It's known as the "opal capital of the world." 521 00:30:10,544 --> 00:30:14,014 Opals have been mined here since 1915, 522 00:30:14,047 --> 00:30:16,350 and there are hundreds of thousands of mine shafts 523 00:30:16,383 --> 00:30:18,185 dotted across the landscape, 524 00:30:18,219 --> 00:30:20,954 some dating back nearly to this time. 525 00:30:22,556 --> 00:30:25,092 Opals can be found here in such abundance 526 00:30:25,159 --> 00:30:28,529 due to a process called acidic weathering. 527 00:30:28,562 --> 00:30:31,398 It began around a hundred million years ago 528 00:30:31,431 --> 00:30:35,002 when the land here was covered by a vast sea. 529 00:30:35,035 --> 00:30:37,038 As the sea dried out, 530 00:30:37,104 --> 00:30:39,073 the water became acidic, 531 00:30:39,139 --> 00:30:41,141 causing silica to be released 532 00:30:41,175 --> 00:30:43,043 from cracks in the sandstone. 533 00:30:43,110 --> 00:30:46,547 Over time, this hydrated silica gel 534 00:30:46,580 --> 00:30:49,182 hardened into opal. 535 00:30:49,216 --> 00:30:51,085 Australia is the only place on Earth 536 00:30:51,151 --> 00:30:54,321 where this process has occurred on such a huge scale. 537 00:30:54,355 --> 00:30:56,357 And today, the country supplies 538 00:30:56,390 --> 00:30:58,726 around 95% of the world's demand 539 00:30:58,792 --> 00:31:00,260 for this precious gemstone. 540 00:31:01,461 --> 00:31:04,131 ♪ ♪ 541 00:31:04,198 --> 00:31:08,101 For the residents here, summers are blisteringly hot, 542 00:31:08,135 --> 00:31:11,905 with temperatures reaching up to 126 degrees Fahrenheit. 543 00:31:11,939 --> 00:31:15,408 So they've come up with a practical way of living. 544 00:31:15,442 --> 00:31:17,811 Rather than building traditional houses, 545 00:31:17,878 --> 00:31:20,947 many people here have gone underground, 546 00:31:20,981 --> 00:31:23,917 creating homes called dugouts. 547 00:31:23,950 --> 00:31:25,785 Here, the temperature hovers 548 00:31:25,852 --> 00:31:28,388 around a comfortable 75 degrees. 549 00:31:28,422 --> 00:31:31,091 Underground bars, shops, and even churches 550 00:31:31,125 --> 00:31:33,093 can be found here, 551 00:31:33,126 --> 00:31:36,129 a thriving town hidden away from the outside world. 552 00:31:38,265 --> 00:31:41,167 ♪ ♪ 553 00:31:43,069 --> 00:31:46,273 A wide variety of wildlife is found in this land. 554 00:31:48,275 --> 00:31:50,410 But at the top of the food chain 555 00:31:50,443 --> 00:31:53,413 is an iconic animal found across much of Australia 556 00:31:53,446 --> 00:31:56,783 which is proving problematic to livestock farmers... 557 00:31:56,850 --> 00:31:58,852 the dingo. 558 00:31:59,586 --> 00:32:02,423 While dingoes normally prey on rabbits and rodents, 559 00:32:02,456 --> 00:32:05,960 they can also kill sheep and calves in significant numbers. 560 00:32:06,961 --> 00:32:10,330 It's estimated to cost the Australian livestock industry 561 00:32:10,363 --> 00:32:13,099 over $70 million US a year. 562 00:32:14,435 --> 00:32:17,437 In 1946, construction began 563 00:32:17,470 --> 00:32:19,873 on an innovative solution - 564 00:32:19,940 --> 00:32:22,009 the Dog Fence. 565 00:32:22,076 --> 00:32:24,678 At nearly three and a half thousand miles long, 566 00:32:24,744 --> 00:32:28,082 it's the longest barrier fence in the world... 567 00:32:28,916 --> 00:32:31,551 cutting off the entire southeast of the continent. 568 00:32:32,453 --> 00:32:36,123 However, the fence is controversial. 569 00:32:36,156 --> 00:32:38,125 It not only stops dingoes, 570 00:32:38,158 --> 00:32:40,994 but prevents the movement of other large animals, 571 00:32:41,027 --> 00:32:45,499 such as emus and kangaroos, disrupting ecosystems. 572 00:32:45,532 --> 00:32:49,637 On top of this, marsupials, reptiles, bats, and birds 573 00:32:49,670 --> 00:32:52,039 can become entrapped in the wire. 574 00:32:52,105 --> 00:32:53,273 But with the government investing 575 00:32:53,307 --> 00:32:56,243 millions of dollars a year in its upkeep, 576 00:32:56,276 --> 00:32:59,913 this iconic Australian structure seems here to stay. 577 00:33:01,248 --> 00:33:04,518 ♪ ♪ 578 00:33:04,551 --> 00:33:06,720 Another challenge to livestock farming 579 00:33:06,754 --> 00:33:08,956 in this part of South Australia 580 00:33:09,023 --> 00:33:11,958 is that vegetation is extremely sparse. 581 00:33:13,861 --> 00:33:16,230 Without a large area of land on which to graze, 582 00:33:16,263 --> 00:33:18,899 livestock can starve. 583 00:33:19,800 --> 00:33:22,169 One hundred miles east of Coober Pedy 584 00:33:22,202 --> 00:33:25,840 is a cattle station where space is not a problem. 585 00:33:26,807 --> 00:33:30,511 Anna Creek is the largest cattle station in the world. 586 00:33:30,544 --> 00:33:32,713 Sixteen-thousand beef cattle 587 00:33:32,746 --> 00:33:35,782 roam its 9,000 square miles, 588 00:33:35,849 --> 00:33:38,218 an area seven times bigger 589 00:33:38,251 --> 00:33:41,087 than the largest ranch in the United States. 590 00:33:41,154 --> 00:33:44,191 It's greater in size even than some countries 591 00:33:44,224 --> 00:33:46,226 like Belize and Slovenia. 592 00:33:47,261 --> 00:33:49,764 The cattle are Poll Herefords, 593 00:33:49,797 --> 00:33:53,200 a breed which copes well in extreme heat. 594 00:33:53,233 --> 00:33:55,902 They only need one large drink a day 595 00:33:55,969 --> 00:34:00,207 at one of the station's 300 watering points. 596 00:34:00,240 --> 00:34:02,243 The levels in the most remote water tanks 597 00:34:02,276 --> 00:34:04,278 are monitored by satellite 598 00:34:04,311 --> 00:34:06,313 to make sure they never run dry. 599 00:34:08,482 --> 00:34:12,820 [engines rumbling] 600 00:34:12,853 --> 00:34:14,955 But the size of the station means that 601 00:34:14,988 --> 00:34:16,991 gathering the cattle for market 602 00:34:17,024 --> 00:34:18,892 is a huge challenge. 603 00:34:20,160 --> 00:34:22,630 Before daybreak, spotter aircraft 604 00:34:22,663 --> 00:34:24,665 locate the herds to be brought in that day. 605 00:34:24,698 --> 00:34:27,968 Then, a team of cowboys known as ringers 606 00:34:28,034 --> 00:34:29,703 heads off to bring them in. 607 00:34:32,806 --> 00:34:35,809 Today, they're targeting a remote part of the station 608 00:34:35,843 --> 00:34:38,311 where around 200 cattle are grazing. 609 00:34:44,218 --> 00:34:46,854 - [cattle braying] - MAN: Hey! Hey! Hey! 610 00:34:46,887 --> 00:34:49,389 Once the cattle have been brought into the yard, 611 00:34:49,456 --> 00:34:53,527 stockmen are able to assess the animals at close quarters. 612 00:34:53,560 --> 00:34:55,896 New calves are tagged, 613 00:34:55,963 --> 00:34:58,532 while those who have reached around 18 months old 614 00:34:58,566 --> 00:35:01,468 are loaded onto road trains to be taken away to market. 615 00:35:07,541 --> 00:35:10,443 ♪ ♪ 616 00:35:10,510 --> 00:35:12,279 The gathering of all the cattle, 617 00:35:12,346 --> 00:35:14,949 called a muster, takes at least six weeks. 618 00:35:15,015 --> 00:35:19,219 And once it's complete, it's time to have some fun. 619 00:35:19,252 --> 00:35:22,289 This is William Creek, 620 00:35:22,356 --> 00:35:25,726 a tiny outback town on Anna Creek Station 621 00:35:25,759 --> 00:35:30,397 which is home to the only pub for 100 miles. 622 00:35:30,430 --> 00:35:33,367 The town has a permanent population of just 10, 623 00:35:33,400 --> 00:35:35,235 but every year it comes alive 624 00:35:35,268 --> 00:35:38,672 at the William Creek Gymkhana and Motokhana. 625 00:35:38,706 --> 00:35:41,842 Here, it's possible to sip on an ice-cold beer 626 00:35:41,875 --> 00:35:44,711 while watching events ranging from horse racing 627 00:35:44,745 --> 00:35:46,914 to motor sports. 628 00:35:46,947 --> 00:35:50,250 A truly Australian Outback experience. 629 00:35:54,421 --> 00:35:56,389 ♪ ♪ 630 00:35:58,625 --> 00:36:01,462 While the lack of rainfall in South Australia 631 00:36:01,495 --> 00:36:04,464 provides challenges for most farming, 632 00:36:04,498 --> 00:36:06,867 it has also created an opportunity. 633 00:36:10,604 --> 00:36:13,307 This is Bungala, 634 00:36:13,373 --> 00:36:16,777 one of the largest solar farms in Australia. 635 00:36:16,810 --> 00:36:19,446 Construction began in 2017, 636 00:36:19,479 --> 00:36:24,584 and today, it contains 840,000 solar panels 637 00:36:24,618 --> 00:36:27,487 spread across nearly 400 acres of land. 638 00:36:31,625 --> 00:36:34,995 That's the same size as 300 American football fields. 639 00:36:37,665 --> 00:36:40,801 Each panel contains photovoltaic cells, 640 00:36:40,834 --> 00:36:44,237 which convert energy from the sun into electricity. 641 00:36:49,276 --> 00:36:51,478 When combined, they produce enough energy 642 00:36:51,545 --> 00:36:54,481 to power 113,000 households. 643 00:36:57,985 --> 00:37:00,588 In recent years, Australia has experienced 644 00:37:00,621 --> 00:37:04,224 a surge in large-scale renewable energy projects. 645 00:37:04,258 --> 00:37:07,727 And nearly 20% of the country's power is generated by solar. 646 00:37:09,663 --> 00:37:12,232 On top of this, Australia has 647 00:37:12,266 --> 00:37:14,034 the highest take-up of residential 648 00:37:14,067 --> 00:37:16,537 rooftop solar in the world. 649 00:37:16,570 --> 00:37:18,405 Panels are now installed 650 00:37:18,472 --> 00:37:21,541 on around one in three Australian homes. 651 00:37:25,011 --> 00:37:27,481 Concern for the environment wasn't always a priority 652 00:37:27,514 --> 00:37:29,650 in this part of the world. 653 00:37:29,683 --> 00:37:31,885 The state is home to large colonies 654 00:37:31,918 --> 00:37:34,221 of Australian sea lions. 655 00:37:34,288 --> 00:37:37,257 But they've been hunted to near extinction, 656 00:37:37,324 --> 00:37:39,994 Now, conservationists are trying to save 657 00:37:40,027 --> 00:37:41,728 this incredible creature. 658 00:37:44,898 --> 00:37:48,135 [distant bird cawing] 659 00:37:49,202 --> 00:37:52,440 More than four-fifths of the state of South Australia 660 00:37:52,473 --> 00:37:56,176 is less than 1,000 feet above sea level. 661 00:37:56,209 --> 00:37:58,479 But in the Flinders Ranges, 662 00:37:58,512 --> 00:38:00,547 the land suddenly rises up 663 00:38:00,614 --> 00:38:02,949 into the state's largest mountain range. 664 00:38:04,785 --> 00:38:06,753 Beyond the Ranges, 665 00:38:06,787 --> 00:38:08,922 the climate becomes Mediterranean, 666 00:38:08,955 --> 00:38:11,425 with hot summers, cool winters, 667 00:38:11,458 --> 00:38:13,093 and reliable rainfall 668 00:38:13,126 --> 00:38:15,028 ♪ ♪ 669 00:38:17,765 --> 00:38:21,167 Ideal conditions for growing grapevines. 670 00:38:28,108 --> 00:38:30,477 [birds tweeting] 671 00:38:30,544 --> 00:38:32,947 While most Australian winemaking regions 672 00:38:32,980 --> 00:38:35,449 were heavily influenced by the British, 673 00:38:35,482 --> 00:38:37,585 the Barossa Valley was also developed 674 00:38:37,618 --> 00:38:39,553 by German Lutherans 675 00:38:39,586 --> 00:38:42,656 who came to the region around the mid-19th century 676 00:38:42,723 --> 00:38:45,659 to escape religious persecution. 677 00:38:45,726 --> 00:38:47,261 They mainly grew Riesling, 678 00:38:47,294 --> 00:38:49,497 a white grape grown on vines 679 00:38:49,563 --> 00:38:52,399 brought from the Rheingau wine region. 680 00:38:52,432 --> 00:38:55,101 But today, the Barossa Valley is 681 00:38:55,135 --> 00:39:00,074 most famous for its bold, full-bodied Shiraz wines, 682 00:39:00,107 --> 00:39:03,643 grown on some of the oldest wine-producing vines 683 00:39:03,677 --> 00:39:04,978 in the world. 684 00:39:08,982 --> 00:39:13,020 ♪ ♪ 685 00:39:13,053 --> 00:39:15,890 Around 175 miles away, 686 00:39:15,956 --> 00:39:18,792 on South Australia's coast, 687 00:39:18,825 --> 00:39:21,661 is the town of Port Lincoln. 688 00:39:21,695 --> 00:39:24,698 It faces out into a huge natural harbor, 689 00:39:24,731 --> 00:39:26,667 making it a safe haven for the largest 690 00:39:26,700 --> 00:39:30,003 commercial fishing fleet in the southern hemisphere. 691 00:39:30,871 --> 00:39:33,674 Species such as lobsters, kingfish, 692 00:39:33,707 --> 00:39:36,676 oysters, and abalone are all caught from here. 693 00:39:38,679 --> 00:39:40,247 But the fish, which transformed 694 00:39:40,280 --> 00:39:41,849 a sleepy village into the base 695 00:39:41,882 --> 00:39:43,984 for a multi-million dollar industry, 696 00:39:44,018 --> 00:39:47,354 is the southern bluefin tuna. 697 00:39:47,421 --> 00:39:49,690 In the early 1960s, 698 00:39:49,757 --> 00:39:52,626 80,000 tons of southern bluefin tuna 699 00:39:52,659 --> 00:39:55,696 were caught in these waters each year. 700 00:39:55,729 --> 00:39:57,831 But by the mid-1980s, 701 00:39:57,864 --> 00:40:00,534 the global catch was in decline. 702 00:40:00,601 --> 00:40:02,869 Strict weight quotas were introduced, 703 00:40:02,936 --> 00:40:04,704 hitting Port Lincoln hard. 704 00:40:05,772 --> 00:40:08,609 Then, in the early 1990s, 705 00:40:08,642 --> 00:40:10,778 an innovative solution was found. 706 00:40:10,811 --> 00:40:13,079 It's called "ranching." 707 00:40:16,183 --> 00:40:19,653 In this method, wild tuna is caught in nets 708 00:40:19,687 --> 00:40:21,689 until the weight quota is reached. 709 00:40:22,556 --> 00:40:25,159 The fish are then held in sea pontoons like these 710 00:40:25,192 --> 00:40:27,161 closer to shore, where they are fed 711 00:40:27,194 --> 00:40:30,464 a diet of bait fish and squid to fatten them up. 712 00:40:31,265 --> 00:40:34,034 As their weight increases, so does the profit. 713 00:40:41,609 --> 00:40:43,176 After harvesting, 714 00:40:43,210 --> 00:40:45,145 the majority of Port Lincoln's tuna 715 00:40:45,178 --> 00:40:47,815 are sent to Japan within 48 hours, 716 00:40:47,848 --> 00:40:49,549 where they fetch top dollar 717 00:40:49,616 --> 00:40:51,551 in the country's busy fish markets. 718 00:40:53,720 --> 00:40:55,489 Ranching is a solution 719 00:40:55,522 --> 00:40:58,025 that rescued the Port Lincoln tuna industry 720 00:40:58,059 --> 00:40:59,793 and has become the accepted method 721 00:40:59,827 --> 00:41:01,962 of bluefin tuna farming across the world. 722 00:41:09,236 --> 00:41:12,406 ♪ ♪ 723 00:41:12,439 --> 00:41:15,042 The bay off the coast of Southern Australia 724 00:41:15,075 --> 00:41:17,911 is called the Great Australian Bight. 725 00:41:17,944 --> 00:41:20,847 It's home to a remote and rugged coastline, 726 00:41:20,880 --> 00:41:24,385 where the Bunda Cliffs rise straight out of the ocean, 727 00:41:24,418 --> 00:41:26,620 some nearly 400 feet high. 728 00:41:27,921 --> 00:41:29,523 The coast was first surveyed 729 00:41:29,556 --> 00:41:31,591 back in 1802 730 00:41:31,658 --> 00:41:33,727 by the British explorer and cartographer 731 00:41:33,761 --> 00:41:35,695 Matthew Flinders. 732 00:41:35,729 --> 00:41:37,631 In the process, 733 00:41:37,698 --> 00:41:39,100 he came across the island 734 00:41:39,133 --> 00:41:41,101 of Karta Pintingga. 735 00:41:41,135 --> 00:41:43,403 He renamed it Kangaroo Island 736 00:41:43,470 --> 00:41:45,672 after coming across this Australian marsupial 737 00:41:45,706 --> 00:41:47,741 in large numbers. 738 00:41:47,808 --> 00:41:50,210 Flinders' visit also led to the discovery 739 00:41:50,244 --> 00:41:53,447 by explorers of another animal, 740 00:41:53,514 --> 00:41:57,517 one which at the time was highly prized. 741 00:41:57,551 --> 00:41:58,818 The sea lion. 742 00:42:00,454 --> 00:42:03,357 During the 18th and 19th centuries, 743 00:42:03,423 --> 00:42:07,627 sea lions were hunted for meat, leather, and oil. 744 00:42:07,661 --> 00:42:09,763 And soon after Flinders left, 745 00:42:09,797 --> 00:42:13,467 sealers set up camp on Kangaroo Island. 746 00:42:13,500 --> 00:42:16,937 Here, and across the southern coast of Australia, 747 00:42:16,970 --> 00:42:19,639 sea lions were hunted to near-extinction. 748 00:42:22,309 --> 00:42:26,680 Today, conservationists are fighting back. 749 00:42:26,746 --> 00:42:30,951 South Australia is home to 85% of Australian sea lions, 750 00:42:30,984 --> 00:42:34,187 and one of the largest colonies is at Seal Bay. 751 00:42:35,889 --> 00:42:38,125 Each young pup is microchipped, 752 00:42:38,159 --> 00:42:40,928 and once a month, the animals are scanned 753 00:42:40,961 --> 00:42:42,362 using a reader at the end of a pole. 754 00:42:48,669 --> 00:42:51,605 The information is invaluable. 755 00:42:51,638 --> 00:42:54,675 Not only to help track the colony's population, 756 00:42:54,742 --> 00:42:56,777 but to help understand the relationships 757 00:42:56,810 --> 00:42:58,178 between the animals. 758 00:43:02,883 --> 00:43:06,186 [sea lion grunting] 759 00:43:06,219 --> 00:43:07,854 Although the killing of sea lions 760 00:43:07,887 --> 00:43:11,725 has been prohibited in South Australia since 1972, 761 00:43:11,792 --> 00:43:14,894 they're still on the endangered species list. 762 00:43:15,895 --> 00:43:18,799 But it's hoped that conservation efforts like this 763 00:43:18,832 --> 00:43:21,034 will be a powerful tool in protecting 764 00:43:21,067 --> 00:43:24,404 this remarkable animal for future generations. 765 00:43:31,178 --> 00:43:33,381 From modern innovations... 766 00:43:33,447 --> 00:43:35,081 to ancient traditions... 767 00:43:36,816 --> 00:43:40,654 this little visited part of the continent has it all. 768 00:43:40,687 --> 00:43:42,155 It's a place where it's possible 769 00:43:42,188 --> 00:43:44,858 to experience ancient cultures 770 00:43:44,891 --> 00:43:46,993 and to discover a sacred site 771 00:43:47,027 --> 00:43:50,063 which has captured the heart of a nation. 772 00:43:50,130 --> 00:43:52,866 The land here is harsh and unforgiving. 773 00:43:52,900 --> 00:43:55,168 But for those with the will to succeed, 774 00:43:55,202 --> 00:43:58,338 it's a place where the rewards are rich. 775 00:43:58,371 --> 00:44:00,407 When discovered from above, 776 00:44:00,474 --> 00:44:04,678 Australia's extreme center never ceases to amaze. 777 00:44:09,483 --> 00:44:13,353 ♪ ♪ 58534

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