Original subtitles

This is Tibet in the 1930s

A beautiful isolated land,

high up in the mountains of the Himalayas,

surrounded by the empires of Britain and China

and yet still almost completely untouched by the outside world

Tibet is now most famous for its leader, the Dalai Lama,

who was forced into exile nearly 50 years ago

This treasure trove of rare colour films,

shot by British Chinese and Tibetan people who lived through these times,

have been preserved by the British Film Institute

These films allow us a glimpse into a world which has almost entirely disappeared

To a time before the Dalai Lama and his people lost their country

Oh, Father! I think it's my father.

It's now impossible to tell the story of Tibet in Tibet

because since the Chinese invasion of 1950,

it's become a criminal offence to even discuss Tibetan independence

in territory controlled by China.

So, to tell the tale of The Lost world of Tibet, I’ve had to come to another country.

I’ve come to India.

The Dalai Lama escaped here in 1959

and along with the Tibetan government in exile is based here in Mcleodganj

To understand how Tibet was lost and why the Dalai Lama must live in exile,

we have to look back to a time when Tibet was a free nation.

This is Lhasa the capital of Tibet in the early 1940s

This film is of the main shopping street known as the Barkhor

Despite being shot in the 20th century it looks medieval

Hardly surprising given Tibet's location

It was almost impossible to reach so it remained frozen in time

Namgyal Takler lived in Tibet in the 1940s

We had the huge mountains surrounding Tibet.

And then we were inside this mountain, isolated.

And we had the big Russia, China, Britain around us,

and it was the policy to be kept...

this country to be kept as a buffer state.

A zone where the big powers will not meet.

And we lived in the 20th century

but maybe we lived like we were in the 16th century.

Tibetan society was both feudal and deeply religious

Buddhism had a profound effect in shaping its culture and traditions

Ruled by a dual system of aristocratic families and Buddhist monks

the government's main function was to maintain the religious state

Tibet's feudal structure meant that most of the population lived in poverty

Any attempts to modernise or invite foreign influence

were resisted by the conservative and profoundly religious outlook

Life in Lhasa was dominated by a huge number of religious festival

which involved most of the city's population

68 days of the year were taken up with festival

Since the Chinese occupation of Tibet all of these festivals have been banned

Even though life for exiled Tibetans has changed enormously

since the Chinese invasion

Tibetan society is still deeply religious and Buddhism is central to its culture

Tibetan prayer flags still hang in holy places

Each time the wind blows the prayers that are written on them are released into the universe

Their colours are symbolic They represent water fire earth and air

Buddhism arrived in Tibet in the 7th century AD,

about a thousand years after it started in Northern India.

Focusing on spiritual development,

all Buddhists believe that the road to enlightenment

lies through the practice and development of morality, meditation and wisdom.

At the time these films were made

monks made up 20% of the male Tibetan population

Every Tibetan family rich or poor

sent their youngest son to a monastery as a spiritual and religious duty

Because monks had a high social status

poor families gave up their boys

in the certain knowledge they would be looked after financially for life

These boys would just have arrived at the monastery

Even though in theory they could give up being a monk if they wanted

they'd expect to stay there for the rest of their lives

The present Dalai Lama who is the 14th was found while he was still a small child

In a tradition that dates back to the 17th century

the Dalai Lama or Ocean of Wisdom is both the spiritual and secular leader of Tibet

All Buddhists believe in rebirth and reincarnation,

but for Tibetan Buddhists, the man they call His Holiness the Dalai Lama,

is very special indeed.

Some see him as a man -god.

All believe he is the reincarnation of all 13 previous Dalai Lamas,

and he’s the Bodhisattva of compassion,

an enlightened being who's chosen rebirth as a human being

so he can be on this world to help others.

When the 13th Dalai Lama died,

his reincarnation a three year old boy called Tenzin Gyatso was found

some 600 miles from the capital in Amdo

a province in the far northeast

While the western world was at war,

the family made the long journey to the capital Lhasa

The 14th Dalai Lama arrived in October 1940

By now he was five years old

He was accompanied by his father and mother and two elder brothers

Lobsang Samten and Gyalo Thondup

Oh, Father! I think it's my father.

Father, yes.

And my mother.

This is my elder brother.

Whom I bully.

My mother - very, very gentle.

Almost I never saw her demonstrate a temper.

I never saw. Very gentle.

Always smiling.

Somebody very rich. A very rich woman.

A villager, uneducated.

At the beginning, illiterate.

Later, with her own effort, see can read some books.

Now, here, yes. My father with the moustache.

He was very much interested in keeping his moustache very...

in a very organised way.

Not like that.

So he used...

Of course, our family from time to time, were eating meat with bone.

So, every time, from the bone, there is something.

What do you call it? Marrow?

He used to put this on his moustache

and do it like that.

Although the young Dalai Lama was revered as a godking

he would not take up his position as head of state until he reached 18

Years of monastic study lay ahead of him

Buddhism involves training, transforming the mind

so as to have a full understanding of the true nature of existence

to gain happiness, and, ultimately, to achieve spiritual enlightenment.

Buddhists believe it's only possible to escape suffering,

to find true happiness, by giving up all worldly desires.

And by accepting the transitory nature of life.

All things change, come to an end.

Don't try and hang on to things.

Also, one has to understand that all one’s actions, one’s karma, have consequences,

for good or for ill.

If you do good things, then you get merit and hurtle towards your own enlightenment.

But more to the point, do good things and the world benefits.

You put positive energy out into the world.

The events of Buddha's life and teachings

were celebrated through ceremonies and ritual that dominated life in Tibet

The Monlam Chenmo or Great Prayer Festival

is a series of events which commemorates the day

when Buddha preached the dhamma or sacred text for the first time

The festival starts when the monks take over the running of Lhasa from the government

The proctors of the Drepung Monastery arrive carrying heavy silver maces

to demand that power is handed over to them by the Kashag or parliament

Their attendants ceremonially throw down the whips of the city magistrates

and bow to the proctors to formalise the handover

The proctors are accompanied by the dobdobs or monastic police

huge monks who carry long sticks and whips

Wearing padded robes their job is to intimidate and control

the crowd of 20000 monks who flood the city for the festival

For the next month the proctors are able to impose fines on the general public

For having a dirty house

for using bells on a horse or mule

for women not wearing a headdress

for the wearing of foreign shoes

or any disorderly behaviour

Gifts of money and food were handed out

While the event was mostly funded by the government

there were contributions from the British and Chinese trade missions based in Lhasa

At this time the Chinese were happy to support religious events

The Tibetan government was dominated by a group of aristocratic families

There were about 200 families who made up the civil service

and each of them had to provide a son to serve as an official

Within the aristocracy there were 30 higher status families

who had the most senior positions

Namgyal is from one of these families the Tsarongs

Oh, that's our house.

the house I was born in.

the Tsarong house.

And that's my Aunt Kookula.

And that's my mother. they’re really modelling away.

It seems quite strange that they are modelling,

because we’d never even heard of this in Tibet

nor did anybody do that.

It seems quite strange.

I'm sure Aunty Kookula must have arranged this.

And I don't know who took the picture but it's very beautiful. Very beautiful.

I think they had a British governess,

and so see must have taught my mother how to walk,

because I can't imagine my mother showing her clothes.

they’re wearing the Lhasa ceremonial costumes.

Kookula's considered very beautiful, and she’s really beautiful in here, I must say.

And you notice here... This is also in our garden.

We had one of the best gardens, also, in Lhasa,

because my grandfather himself, he worked in the garden.

Also he made all the family members come and work.

We, each child, had our tree.

We had to water the tree, fertilise it,

and we were only allowed to take the fruits of that tree and no fruits from the other trees,

so we had strawberries, we had gooseberries, we had pears, everything.

In this picture you see my aunts together with my grandfather.

they had the same father - Tsarong,

but they had three different mothers.

they were three sisters from the original Tsarong family.

This sort of family structure was not unusual in Tibet

Men could marry a number of women

and even women could marry a number of men

the reason is to keep the family wealth together.

Married out, the brothers had several wives.

There are bound to be troubles,

and then they might say, 'OK, we want to separate the land.'

So they usually had brothers marry one daughter,

or the daughters marrying several brothers, and so on.

It was very common.

Divorce did exist, and usually what happened was

before... during marriage there is a contract made,

and then usually most of the divorces,

the wife would be well looked after when she leaves the home.

If there’s a son, the son stays with the father, the daughter stays with the mother.

So there’s no custody of the children, fighting about it.

the daughter goes to the mother, the son to the father.

they could also remarry.

We had no problems about divorces or widows remarrying.

In fact, if they were younger, they were encouraged to marry.

Tibet's feudal structure meant that most of the population lived in poverty

Ordinary families were reliant on the landowners for a living

They were effectively owned by them

and each family had specific jobs they were born into

Phuntsog Tsering's family were tailors for one of the aristocratic families in Lhasa

TRANSLATOR: I come from a tailoring family.

My father and mother were both tailors and they trained me.

Now these are the costumes for the aristocratic ladies.

In terms of design and patterns,

these outfits are the type worn by the aristocrats,

but they’re really quite similar to those that the more ordinary woman would wear.

There was summer and winter wear,

and these outfits are for the winter.

these are definitely winter wear.

You can tell by the Length of the sleeves.

When it comes to making these costumes, we did everything by hand.

In those days, we didn't have sewing machines in Tibet.

But for a tailor like me, it would take about two days.

That's right. I could complete something like that in about two days.

these are the costumes of the Kashag, and they are relatively easy to sew.

All of the aristocrats' costumes were made of brocade.

But the type of brocade, in terms of colour, shine, pattern and quality,

would again depend on their rank.

If we were making something for a government civil servant,

the design and pattern would depend completely on their rank and status.

Shewo Lobsang Darje was a junibr rank civil servant in the early 1950s

the higher ranked officials had a huge number of costumes they had to wear,

while the lower ranks had far fewer.

One of the original ancient costumes that was traditionally worn on official occasions

is called the Gyalu costume.

And I have worn that costume myself.

I was one of the lowest ranks, like the 6th or 7th grade,

and we all wore the Gyalu.

It was the same colour for everyone.

But for day-to-day wear, I wore the native Nambu outfit,

which was made of black or brown woollen cloth.

A unique feature of the costume was the yellow hat called a bog to,

which was worn by every grade of civil servant.

As for the Length of our hair, everybody just let it grow.

Some had it down to their waists, some a bit shorter.

You let it grow to its natural Length, and you'd never get it cut.

I used to have hair down to here in those days.

It was very long and very thick.

the topknot, or pah chok, were very fiddly to do.

they would take ages, but once you got used to it, you could do it yourself.

If you were in a hurry, you would need help,

especially with the braiding,

so you would teach your wife how to do it and see would help you.

Later, you could call in a professional hairdresser who specialised in braiding,

and they were very skilled and therefore quicker.

Most men and women had long hair.

Of course the monks didn't, because they had to have their heads shaved.

Everybody else grew their hair long.

This massive civil and monastic bureaucracy within Lhasa

was about to be led spiritually if not politically by the five-year-old Dalai Lama

Before his official enthronement he stayed at the Summer Palace

the Norbulingka

At first his family were also allowed to stay there too

before he began his new life

Of course, at that time, my mother and father, and my elder brother

remained or stayed with me.

Then Mother and Father, I think every day cam to see me.

And also I used to visit their home.

I enjoy my native village’s food.

While pilgrims came from all over Tibet

foreign dignitaries also paid homage to the godking

The British political officer in nearby Sikkim brought a movie camera with him

and managed to get this first ever moving picture of the Dalai Lama

Sir Basil Goul seen here with a white prayer scarf around his neck

also brought an expensive foreign toy car for the little boy

But already his status set him apart from other children

and only his older brother Lobsang was allowed to test drive it

This is my brother. Elder brother.

So the people felt, if I handle it, it may be too risky,

so my elder brother - 'let him play.'

Sometimes I feel a little jealousy.

Somebody’s in the car. I wonder if that is my husband.

It's him.

Namgyal married the Dalai Lama's older brother Lobsang in 1962

There’s Lobsang on the horse now. I see him.

Lobsang's so serious. I can't believe he looks so serious.

He’s not a serious person, but in there he looks so serious.

Now, that is a very rich picture, yes,

of Lobsang's father.

With his mother going in front of him.

the wonderful thing about my mother-in -law, which I really admire,

is see loved wearing her own simple jewellery and dresses.

See was a wonderful person, very simple.

From a small village,

but she was always so kind to everybody.

If a beggar cam to the home and asked for something,

she’d ask the cook to please feed the person,

whoever it was.

And see was really kind to everybody.

Wonderful person.

The date for the 14th Dalai Lama's enthronement ceremony at the Potala Palace

was reached according to complex astrological calculations

The distance between the Norbulingka Palace and the Potala is only a few miles

The Dalai Lama would be accompanied on this short journey

by the whole of his monastic and civil retinue

The 13storey Potala was originally built in the 7th century

It 's a quarter of a mile long with over a 1000 rooms

It was the winter residence of the Dalai Lama

a centre for religious worship and training

as well as housing Tibet's government and huge civil service

Tenzin Gyatso was enthroned as the 14th Dalai Lama on the 22nd February 1940

A life of austerity and strict scholarly pursuit began for the five year old

and his brother Lobsang

I think, for him, being a normal child and then suddenly becoming a monk

and then coming up to Lhasa with His Holiness,

and leaving the parents and suddenly going into this huge Potala Palace and living there

amidst the older monks who can be quite strict,

and he used to often tell me it wasn't that pleasant there.

DALAI LAMA: the elder brother stayed with me.

We always played.

And sometimes I bullied him,

although he’s older than me.

He used to talk about His Holiness being quite naughty and mischievous.

And that when he was naughty, his tutors used to frighten Lobsang.

And then His Holiness used to get into a lot of very rich games, running around,

and then feeding the birds outside on the roofs.

That was the greatest fun.

Here were these two little boys with the older attendants

and huge dark rooms

and it was very frightening for them.

Coming from a village where you had a lot of running around, freedom,

and then suddenly you’re up there,

it must have been quite intimidating for him.

DALAI LAMA: So, then, I think once a month, my mother cam.

So when my mother cam, I'd feel very happy.

Then my mother would depart, and I'd feel a little...

...a little uncomfortable, a little sad.

While the young boy studied

a monk regent took the role of Tibet's temporal leader

until the Dalai Lama reached the age of majority

Regent Retting seen here with his enormous bodyguard Uttugba

oversaw much of this power vacuum

But his regime was seen as corrupt

He was displaced and then imprisoned after an attempted coup

He died in jail

The Dalai Lama had to wait to take full political power

but as the country's spiritual leader he acted as a figurehead

One of the five-year-old 's official duties was attending cabinet meetings

His strict routine only varied for the important festival

The festival of the Votive Offering took place in the eastern courtyard of the Potala Palace

It was a deeply significant solemn occasion

in which all of the sins and bad events from the previous year were purged

clearing the way for the next

The Yellow Hatted monks of the Dalai Lama's own Namgyal monastery

join the government and civil official as they prostrate themselves in front of His Holiness

Watching from the top floor is the Dalai Lama

The main event of the Votive Offering is the cham a Tantric dance

Accompanied by drummers and trumpets dancers emerge into the courtyard

They have spent many hours in meditation

envisaging themselves as the deity they are about to perform

Usur Nawang Tashi was one of these dancers and later taught cham dancing

TRANSLATOR: Now here are the Cham dancers making their entrance.

I have performed this dance myself.

This is performed on the last day of the Tibetan calendar year.

As the new year’s approaching, it's performed as an auspicious ritual

to make sure that during the following year there is enough rain when we need it,

that no misfortunes happen, that we are protected from any negative forces,

and that there is peace in the world.

That's why we perform the cham dance.

This one with the horns in the middle is the principal character of the cham dance,

the Damchen Chohgyal.

Ringed around him are 22 black hat dancers and 16 masked dancers.

Teaching the stag dance is very difficult, especially as they start as young boys.

I found it very hard myself.

Although he look like an adult, he’s actually a boy.

He would probably be about 12, 13 or maybe even 14.

I remember being very anxious and scared during the performance

in case we made a mistake

because if you got anything wrong, discipline was very strict.

Even if you made a tiny mistake, you'd be punished.

Only young boys are agile enough to perform this.

Your cham teachers train you.

Because the training involves a lot of kneeling,

you'd get lots of cuts and bruises on your knees and you'd get beatings too.

Only through such strict training, can you achieve perfection.

When we began our training, and were learning how to do the black hat dance,

the repetitive arm and leg movements made you very stiff.

So stiff that it would be really uncomfortable to sit cross-legged for the prayer sessions.

the costumes were very heavy and difficult to wear,

but if you didn't wear them, you'd look too puny.

You wouldn't look the part, so there was padding to beef you up.

You'd get very stuffy inside the masks.

the performance would last three hours

and the whole affair would be at least three hours.

At the end of the ceremony a cathartic fire purification rite is performed

to ensure that the last traces of evil are dispelled

Now you can see they’re heating up oil in a cauldron.

Later they'll add rum or alcohol.

In this ritual, you fill a human skull with alcohol

and then you pour it into the boiling oil.

(Prayer bells and chanting)

Tibetan Buddhism differs from other types because at its roots

are the traditions of the earlier Bon religion

Therefore, there’s a belief in gods and celestial beings,

but also there are various traditions that involve all Tibetan society in their practice of Buddhism.

the Tibetans believe that their prayers can be given added power

by being conducted by means of a prayer wheel.

Here’s a prayer wheel.

Walking round the wheel

means that my prayers have the power of all the written prayers inside this wheel.

Incredible.

Also, there are flags, which have a similar theme to prayers through repetition.

And the mantras...

are used to really gain merit

and to help one on one’s path to enlightenment.

(Chanting)

Prayer wheel can contain up to a mile of written prayers

They are symbolically 'recited' with every turn

Pilgrims earn merit and concentrate their minds on the mantras they are reciting

as the wheel turns

The circular five mile walk which surrounded Lhasa was known as the Lingkhor

On the festival days pilgrims would start walking early in the morning

Artemisia scrub rhododendron and juniper twigs were burnt

and the air would be filled with incense

A new Lingkhor has been created at Mcleodganj.

It surrounds the Dalai Lama's own residence up there.

This replaces the sacred path lost at Lhasa.

Pilgrims now walk it.

This is a particularly busy day. It's a festival day.

these days they just walk,

but in the past pilgrims would prostrate themselves along the route

and that was done rather like this.

One simply stops, says a prayer...

...and then one measures one’s Length on the ground

right the way down to the bottom and up again.

And so one goes.

Right around the path.

I put my feet where my head was and down I go again.

Difficult process, but it was to show respect and compassion for all thinking beings,

to remove negative forces

and to gain merit, to help one on one’s path to enlightenment.

Jampa Choedon was a young nun living in Lhasa at the time

This is the Lingkhor, the long circuit just behind Chakpori Hill.

This shot is taken of the section just below Chakpori Hill.

There used to be people carving mantras on stones, making clay statues,

and many places where you could make incense offerings.

There would be many people walking the Lingkhor.

Down here there would be people doing the half-sideways prostrations

as well as the forward prostrations.

I didn't manage to do any sideways prostrations

but I managed to do one circuit doing the forward prostrations.

Here they are making the descent.

Sometimes when you were prostrating here, you would nearly fall down.

I did a Lingkhor circuit.

I took six days and a morning.

In the midday sun, you couldn't do the prostrations, so you would have a rest.

Friends would bring you a meal so you would have a lunch break.

People would normally get up early and start at dawn.

Jampa Tsultrim and Tenzin Choenyi Tara also did the Lingkhor circuit

When they used to do the old Lingkhor circuit, it used to take about two hours.

But during Buddhist festivals, people weren't satisfied with merely walking it,

they would prostrate themselves all the way round.

So as we were talking about this yesterday,

it turns out that we both happen to have done the full body-Length prostrations

and made the full circuit.

It would vary how long it would take to do the full body-Length prostrations,

depending on the individual.

the fast ones would do it in three to four days,

others might do it in short stages

so it would take about seven to eight days to do the full circuit.

Wherever you ended the day, you'd leave a mark

and then you'd resume from there the next day.

He said yesterday he did it in four days.

the reason for doing the prostrations is to accumulate merit

and to cleanse yourself of your negativities.

It's an entirely spiritual activity.

Now here are some pilgrims who have come from villages far away.

they have come for the Monlam festival.

You can see that they are carrying their provisions in packs on their back.

There were people coming from all different directions.

Some would beg, some would offer prayers

and some would give alms to the beggars.

One was free to do what one wished.

You would give soup, tea or money to earn merit.

There’s somebody ladling out some tsampa for the beggars.

On the day to celebrate the Buddha's enlightenment

the Lingkhor is especially crowded

Many people are begging for alms

The giving of money food or tea was very much part of the pilgrims’ practice

and it still is today

These days in Mcleodganj the beggars are Indians

and the pilgrims giving money are Tibetan refugees

On festival days the Cabinet and senior civil official also walked the Lingkhor

But they would get very hot in their heavy ceremonial costumes

and so would stop off at the British Mission for a cup of tea

Historically the British and Chinese were officially represented in Tibet

British pressure to allow trading

had led to the establishment of a new British Trade Mission in 1937

and in the mid 1940s a Chinese representative arrived in Lhasa

Relations with the British were cordial while they were more tense with the Chinese

Dr Tsunglien Shen seen here being welcomed by Jigme Terring

the Tibetan finance minister

was a representative of the Chinese Nationalist government

At home China was in the midst of a bloody civil war

between the Nationalists and the Communists

Life in Lhasa continued according to ancient custom and practice

The Dalai Lama lived in the Potala during the winter and the Norbulingka during the summer

Twice a year the civil and religious hierarchy accompanied him

on his move from palace to palace

Identified by the peacock feathered umbrella

which accompanied his sedan chair or palanquin

the whole population of Lhasa watched silently for a glimpse of His Holiness

At the front of the procession, there would be the lower rank officials,

and they would get higher and higher the nearer they got to His Holiness’s palanquin.

the front column are the monk civil servants, in order of importance,

up to the cabinet ministers who ride alongside His Holiness.

Behind the palanquin are his two personal tutors and then his immediate family members.

the lay civil officials bring up the rear at the end of the procession,

according to one’s rank and position.

It was the same protocol as when you would have an official audience with His Holiness.

As a junior civil servant, my turn would come somewhere at the very end.

I went to see the Dalai Lama many times.

We would stand on both sides of the route.

Because he travelled in a palanquin,

you'd only be able to get occasional glances of him.

We used to also stand in line with the crowd

and view... and get a blessing from His Holiness while he was in the palanquin

because everything was so silent,

incense burning and people very quiet and trying hard to get a glimpse of him.

And at the end, they would have the army band coming, which was more fun.

A lot of excitement then.

Oh, that young monk.

I think, out of curiosity, looking.

In any cash, from my childhood, from that age

I always smiled with people, with public.

So people also say they love my smile.

So, whenever I looked like that, the people expressed some kind of...

What do you say?

Expression of joy.

I think around ten years old, around ten,

when I look at this, I feel that people consider the reincarnation of high lama.

Actually, that young boy, I think, only know how to play.

So there is big contrast.

These days there isn't quite the same spectacle when the Dalai Lama travel

Although lots of devotees turn out to see him

his bodyguards are now armed with walkie talkies

and he travel in a modest though bulletproof car

Tibetan Buddhists have retained much of their culture and religious practice

since going into exile

But life in Tibet before the Chinese occupation was significantly different in many ways

The Tibetan year is marked by many religious festival

Here at the Dalai Lama's own Namgyal monastery,

thousands of people gather to celebrate New Year.

This takes place in lath February, early March,

but, sadly, far fewer festivals are celebrated now than there were in Tibet.

The King's New Year festival celebrates the Dalai Lama's position

as the ruler of both church and state

The high official wear robes whose design dates back to the 7th century

Along with ancient ornaments of amber and coral

which had been traded along the silk route

and had originally come from the Mediterranean

The turquoise charm boxes around their necks

and the golden bar encased in turquoise which reaches their waist

is so heavy it must be carried

The ordinary people of Lhasa gather at the foot of the Potala to watch the sky dancing

A spectacle in which a man scales a rope up to a tall wooden mast

stands precariously on a small platform and then spins himself around

The performer is traditionally a man from one of the small villages in the region of Tsang

It 's done in retribution for their resistance to the rule of the 5th Dalai Lama

There's a saying in Tsang that mothers don't die from illnesses

but from worry that their sons might be taken for the sky dance

The casting out of the votive offering

was one of the biggest and most elaborate of the celebrations

This ceremonial military manoeuvre was known as the coiling snake

With civil official acting as marshal

500 infantry in chain mail move in a zigzag formation

while another formation circles it

Seemingly chaotic it was highly organised

and the troops rehearsed for months to perfect it

Hundreds of monks arrive carrying green drums and cymbal

Next the torma are brought out

Tall sculptures which have a grinning skull on top and represent all evil spirits

Wearing an ornate head dress the Nechung oracle

a monk who is chosen for his psychic powers appears in a state of possession

The oracle 's helmet and costume are so heavy

that the medium can hardly walk in them when he is not in a trancelike state

He races around chaotically chasing the tormas into a clearing

accompanied by hundreds of monks and most of the population of Lhasa

When the oracle arrives he shoots a burning arrow into bonfires

which contain the evil spirits and they're set ablaze

Many of the religious festival had an additional civil or governmental element

At the review at Trapchi the Tibetan cavalry assemble in front of the Cabinet

and government official

The cavalry wears chain mail steel breast plates

and helmets with peacock feathers on them

The standard bearers wear special helmets which have 'Allah ' inscribed on them in gold

thought to date back to 8th century contact with Arabs

They carry tall lances wrapped in painted banners

said to have been given by the army of Genghis Khan 's grandson

The Cabinet wears ornate robes

their fur trimmed hats have silk crowns with ornaments on top of coral turquoise and gold

A government official followed by four junibr official makes his report to the Cabinet

announcing the number of men and horses

Shewo Dargye had to attend the review every year

these official functions tended to be rather long, drawn out affairs.

However, each one of us had our own responsibilities to perform.

As you can see here in the film,

when we junior accountants had to present the inspection report at the review at Trapchi.

We had to give the full list of horsemen and their equipment.

So I'd feel very tens from early in the morning as I had to present the report aloud,

in front of a huge gathering of people.

I would worry that I would make mistakes and embarrass myself, so I felt scared.

I'd be so terrified that time would just fly past.

But when I had no responsibilities,

the ceremony would get tedious and seemed to go on forever.

So we young ones would quietly sneak out the back for a cigarette and a chat.

Another military event the 'gallop round the fort' was slightly more exciting to attend

these are the special Monlam festival cavalry.

Two Yaso generals command them.

Together they are being prepared to lead the presentation.

There were three targets.

the riders had to ride past, fire a gun,

shoot an arrow and spear each one.

If they managed to hit each of the targets, they would be presented with a victory scarf.

The targets are hung perilously close to the spectators' heads

There is frighteningly little crowd control and serious accidents result

Finally the competitors line up to receive their prayer scarves

The event ends when they perform a special Mongolian salute

Other pursuits were more gentle

The people of Lhasa rich and poor alike

took advantage of the summer festival to enjoy their environment

During the month of celebrations to honour the Buddha's enlightenment

the government ministers and official are rowed around a lake to make offerings

After they'd had their turn the ordinary pilgrims were allowed a go

It 's hard to believe that war was raging in the rest of the world

as the people of Lhasa set off for their annual picnic season

South of Lhasa there were many parks.

During the first two weeks in May, it was picnic season.

the quality of the tent depended on how rich you were.

Poor people would just rig up a sheet or a small tent.

But everyone went.

People might picnic for one day or for longer,

but on the 15th, everybody would go to their local place of worship

and then come to the picnic.

(Traditional singing)

The Nationalist Kuomintang government in China maintained its mission in Lhasa

and even joined in with the Tibetan festival

However at home the Communists were growing in power and a civil war was raging

You see the flag there? It's the flag of the Chinese Kuomintang.

In those days, the Chinese in Tibet were mainly the official representatives of the Kuomintang.

the present Chinese hadn't arrived yet.

Here you can see some people performing the incense burning ceremony.

And here are some monks playing the long horns and oboes.

This is a group of Nangma musicians.

they had their own musical association.

I know one of them, the man wearing dark glasses, he’s called Namgyal.

He was a very well known musician in Lhasa.

He was a brilliant harmonica player,

he also played the Tibetan Lute and other instruments.

He was blind and that's why he wore dark glasses.

Everyone knew him by his nickname, Namgyal No Eyes.

(Traditional singing)

Another important summer event and one of the Dalai Lama's favourites

was the annual opera festival held at the Norbulingka Palace

DALAI LAMA: During the summer at Norbulingka,

I think around July or August,

was the summer festival.

the folk dance,

and also every day the military performance.

So, like any other child, I loved the military performance.

they were well organised. they were quite smart, like that.

Opera, Tibetan unique opera.

So, during that period, I have no lessons.

Free holiday.

Then my mother often cam, because, during that period,

my family stay in residence in Norbulingka.

they stay there a few days.

So, I'm very happy.

Then, after five days, the festival finish.

the next day my lessons started.

At the same time, on the fifth day evening,

my mother departs.

So I feel very...

Very sad.

That's the child experience. Like that.

For the commoners in Lhasa

participation in some festival events was not really a matter of choice

For the wrestling and weight lifting

the contestants were all from the Dalai Lama's personal bodyguard regiment

though it 's hard to believe given their size and stature

The wrestling was a particularly unpopular duty as they had to wear loincloths

It was deemed to be shameful appearing semi-naked in public

and especially in front of your superiors

For most shyness meant they were covered up quickly

but some seemed to rather enjoy it

At the same time as the horse race is being conducted around the city

there is also a foot race

A motley group of men run in brightly coloured outfits somewhat un enthusiastically

The race is compulsory and is performed as a duty to their landlords

For the Tibetan aristocrats

there were lots of social events to attend at the British Mission or Dekyi Lingka

In true colonial style tea was served

and even darts were played

Summer was a period where everybody had a party to celebrate the summer

and to be outdoors.

This person playing the dart is my grandmother's youngest...

...one of the younger sisters playing darts, yes.

Now this looks like a party at the British legation or the British Mission.

the Dhkyi Lingka.

It's a beautiful garden,

and the servant at the back is wearing the special costumes

which servants in the Sikkim royal family used to wear.

So, I think very much they wore this costume at the formal parties.

And this looks very much like the senior Mrs Lalu.

See was a very special lady.

See was actually a nun.

And see fell in love with a member of the 13th Dalai Lama's family.

And, anyhow, see was very kind, and see did everything on such a grand scale.

And see used to visit once a year

at our home.

The British Mission closed when India gained independence in 1947

Tibet still had no status as an independent nation and was not recognised internationally

The civil war between the Communists and the Nationalists in China continued

The Tibetan government realised that if the Communists won

they would not tolerate their religion

However they didn't want to be seen to be taking sides

so they politely asked the Nationalist Chinese to leave Tibet

They were sent off with the utmost courtesy with parties and free transport to the Indian border

The small Tibetan army was reorganised

New regiments were formed and they were reequipped

In 1949 the Chinese civil war ended

and the People 's Republic of China was established

under Mao Tsetung's chairmanship

One of their first objectives

was to bring Tibet back into what they called the 'motherland'

On the 6th October 1950,

40,000 Chinese soldiers of the People’s Liberation Army invaded Tibet.

the small Tibetan army was quickly overwhelmed and forced to surrender.

the issue of the invasion was raised with the United Nations

but nothing was done.

Indeed, the international community did shamefully little to help Tibet in its plight.

So, the Tibetans had nothing to do but to negotiate with the Chinese.

To do this they needed a sole ruler.

So the Dalai Lama, still with two years of training ahead of him,

was rapidly given the power to rule in Tibet.

Incredible this, a 16 year-old boy was suddenly made the temporal and spiritual ruler of Tibet.

The teenager acted quickly and sent delegations to Britain and America

But it was the height of the Col War and they refused to help

The Chinese however were happy to talk

Fearful that Chinese troops would invade Lhasa

the Dalai Lama instructed Tibetan official in Beijing to begin negotiations

The 17point agreement

in which Tibet was defined as being part of the Chinese Motherland

was signed in Beijing without the Dalai Lama's consent

The 'reunification ' as the Chinese called it

was completed when the invading forces reached Lhasa in October 1951

and Tibet was conquered

Samdhong Rinpoche was in Lhasa at the time

At that time, there were quite a sizable number of Chinese military persons

arrived in Tibet.

And they set up loudspeaker radio in Lhasa town.

So there was a lot of wires going over the houses

and there’s a big loudspeaker,

so it was not a radio but just propaganda through all the town

covered by the loudspeakers.

After the Chinese arrived in 1951,

everyone felt that they had lost their way, they didn't know what to do.

There was a real feeling of tension and uneasiness in Lhasa.

the Chinese were becoming more and more oppressive by the day.

His Holiness was in a very difficult position, in the face of the military power of the Chinese.

Rather than resist Chinese rule

the Dalai Lama attempts to make the 17point agreement work

As it was meant to allow the Tibetan government

to continue running its own country

for the next three years he set about introducing social and land reforms

Attempting to 'propel Tibet into the 20th century'

However he still had ancient and highly demanding spiritual duties to perform

The Kalachakra ceremony or 'Wheel of Time'

is one of the most complex systems of theory and practice in Tibetan Buddhism

The 17yearol Dalai Lama was initiated into this Tantric tradition

in front of hundreds of official and monks at the Norbulingka Palace

I think this is the first time of Kalachakra initiation at Norbulingka.

I think, 16, 17.

I already took the responsibility of temporal power.

Oh, bless me, here comes His Holiness, the Dalai Lama.

Here he is receiving the Mandala offering for a long life.

He’s looking so young. He’s not wearing glasses yet.

He must be 16 or 17.

Here is the Lord Abbot, the elder brother of His Holiness, Lobsang Samten.

It must be inside the Norbulingka.

This is during the Kalachakra teachings.

It looks like the people are throwing scarves forward

to request the teachings after the Mandala ceremony.

You'd say prayers, then everyone would throw scarves forward.

It was what everyone did in Tibet,

but these days, His Holiness discourages it.

In 1954 the Dalai Lama received an invitation from the Chinese to go to Beijing

Most Tibetans were against the idea fearing for his safety

The Dalai Lama however was determined to go

seeing it as an opportunity to be able to talk to Chairman Mao in person

Then I felt, not only me, but some officials

some high officials...

now two opinions.

One opinion: Now this is the right time.

Should go to Beijing

and meet high officials, high leaders.

And some were very much reluctant, very much against.

I think out of fear.

My own opinion is now better go there.

Eventually it was decided he could go provided he returned within one year.

His Holiness himself promised the people he would return within the year.

I heard that when he was about to cross the Tsangpo River,

people had come from Lhasa in their finest clothes.

In Tibet, it is a custom for women to dress up for special journeys for good luck.

they all crowded along the river bank, looking very anxious.

Some were even about to throw themselves into the river in sorrow and desperation.

This is actually departing Lhasa to China,

I think, this one.

You know, I like missions,

all these modern things.

So I love to visit China.

But at the same time, not just like tourists,

also have some responsibility.

So not very certain.

So all kinds of mixed feelings.

Some hope, some doubts,

some fears, some...

Indecisive. Like that.

And also some excitement.

The Dalai Lama attended the first National Chinese People 's congress

which included ten seats for the Tibetan delegation

He was impressed by Mao

and felt a great affinity with many of the egalitarian principles of communism

However at their last meeting Mao wasted no time in giving his true opinion of Tibet

and its future under Chinese rule

As the Dalai Lama left Mao turned to him and said 'Religion is poison '

The Dalai Lama returned home

News reached him that the Chinese authorities in Eastern Tibet were confiscating lands

belonging to monasteries and redistributing them amongst themselves

The situation deteriorated

Fighting broke out between the Chinese army and Tibetan freedom fighters

and refugees began pouring into Lhasa

In the midst of this tense atmosphere the Dalai Lama still had to take his final monastic exams

The main focus of which were public debates

Debate is the rigorous discussion of Buddha's teachings

Everything is challenged

Debate is an ancient tradition within Buddhism which is still practised today

Although the monks and now nuns

are somewhat more vigorous in their style than they were in the 1950s

(Animated conversation)

These monks are arguing over their personal interpretation of Buddhist texts

The skill is in arguing and using logic and your own analysis to back up your points

They are punctuated with claps of the hand

The respondent must then reply

the culmination of the Dalai Lama's 18 years of study

was an examination for a doctorate in Buddhist philosophy.

This started with debates at three of the largest monasteries in Tibet.

Drepung Monastery had 10000 resident monks

8000 of them were squeezed into the square to see the Dalai Lama

as he arrived with his retinue to take his first exam

The monastery owned local estates

and had some 20000 tied peasants who worked the land and paid them taxes

The revenue paid for the prayer sessions and festival which dominated monastic life

Feeding the monks for big events like the examinations

was a huge if somewhat rushed process

The young monks run down from the cookhouse

carrying huge tubs of tsampa for their brethren who are sitting in the square

Tsampa is roasted barley flower mixed with yak butter tea or water to make dough

To celebrate His Holiness's presence

the monks are also given prayer scarves tea and money

I am somewhere here.

Somewhere amongst the second row or third row, I should be.

And this is a common sight.

these are the government officials.

Now His Holiness is offering the debate to the two abbots.

During his early life, he had to go to China,

and he had to go to India.

He had so many things to attend to, he did not have time to study.

Now, this abbot - top scholar. Mongolian.

And also he...

He asked a question very rapidly.

(Mimics speed)

So, I was a bit more nervous.

So, I have little...

...opportunity to think how to trick him.

One top scholar very rapidly used to put question after question.

There’s no time!

How to pretend, or how to defend like that.

So, now, this is my turn at the debate.

Of course we have received a lot of teaching from His Holiness

and we know he’s a very great scholar.

But he was not joined in the monastic debate.

We thought he may not be very sharp in the debate.

But, for the first time, we saw, when he was examined by the abbots,

he was brilliant,

and absolutely sharp.

Equal with those who were debating in the monastery for a lifetime,

and the abbots find it quite difficult to debate with him.

The next exam was at Sera Monastery

The whole of the Dalai Lama's government travelled with him

allowing him to consult with them about the growing tension in Lhasa

At the same time he had to prepare for the next series of debates

But the abbots each had their own individual style of arguing

In Sera Monastery...

You see, when you debate with the opponent,

good scholar.

Then their answer is something logical,

or is something... valid and meaningful.

In Sera Monastery, one abbot was not that much of a scholar,

not that top.

So, you see, from my side, the preparation...

If answer come this way: Yes, this is the way to argue.

If this way, answers come this kind of answer, then, yes, already prepared.

And his answer was an unexpected answer!

So, then my tutor noticed that,

and he very kindly stopped. Now finish.

That was a tremendous relief.

The last of the preliminary exams was some distance from Lhasa

at Ganden Monastery

Ironically the examinations at Ganden

proved to be a brief period of respite for the Dalai Lama

Thousands more refugees had fled the fighting in the East and arrived in Lhasa

A huge number were now camped around the outskirts of the city

Tensions with the occupying Chinese, who'd been in Tibet for about nine years,

were high.

There were food shortages in Lhasa and rumours about massacres in eastern Tibet

and also rumours about the destruction of sacred sites.

Meanwhile, the Dalai Lama still had his final exam to take.

The Dalai Lama returned to Lhasa and continued to prepare for his final exam

Amidst increasingly disturbing reports of Chinese atrocities

he attempted to concentrate on his studies

He took solace in Buddha's teachings

that one's enemy is one's greatest teacher

and to have compassion for all sentient beings

The final exam was arranged to take place

at the same time as the Monlam New Year Festival

There were 30000 monks in the city and pilgrims were arriving from all over Tibet

The Jokhang temple was full to bursting

The cabinet civil official and all the senior abbots and monks were present

At that time, things were very tens.

On the one hand, a very solemn and grand ceremony was taking place.

On the other hand, we were in a very dangerous and tens situation.

TENZIN CHOENYI TARA: There were a lot of rumours about danger to his security.

And the threat perception was very high.

And, therefore, it was very tight security arrangements than used to be there,

and that was a bit annoying.

And that was not...

That was not in consonance with the monastic atmosphere.

So, a lot of soldiers with guns,

and very attentive, with walkie-talkies.

This is not familiar with the people.

So that was tens,

and also the joyful - these are going together.

Gun emplacements were built.

There were Chinese carrying rifles, patrolling the rooftops opposite.

Everyone, the government officials, the clergy, the people

were there for the religious function on the 13th.

But they saw clearly the Chinese soldiers walking around on the rooftops.

I was involved in organising the event.

In this emergency situation, there was nothing we could do.

We asked some of the monk officials to disguise themselves as ordinary people

and mingle with the public and to act like spies.

On the one hand, the ordinary people and the aristocrats were all dressed up in their finest.

On the other, right next door, the Chinese were making elaborate military preparations,

with soldiers carrying rifles as if they might attack at any moment.

It was unbelievable that these two extraordinary situations could be happening at the same time.

the position between the Chinese and the Tibetans was becoming irreconcilable.

It was an incredible situation that was unfolding.

If you had told an outsider, they wouldn't believe you.

But that's how it was.

DALAI LAMA: One aspect -

the whole atmosphere is so tens.

Many people actually felt whether this big gathering can take place or not,

because there was so much tension.

But then everything go very smoothly.

So everybody was very happy.

My final examination was successful.

I think very successful.

And also, I myself, from the corner of my mind,

another thing is, now no more lessons.

The Dalai Lama returned to the Norbulingka with his full retinue

But this time he was accompanied by armed guards

Little did he know that this 1000yearol ceremonial procession through Lhasa

would be his last

The Chinese Governor-General of Tibet invited the Dalai Lama to see a dance troupe

at the Chinese military headquarters

In the name of dispensing with formality

the Chinese requested that he attend with unarmed bodyguards

Worried that a refusal would worsen the fragile situation the Dalai Lama accepted

but the news soon spread

the Tibetan people cam pouring into the Norbulingka

and their spokesman forced their way into our official meetings.

So His Holiness didn't go.

This meant that any communication between the Chinese and the Tibetans

had completely broken down.

As this had happened, everybody felt it wasn't safe for His Holiness to stay.

You could never tell what the Chinese might do.

So everyone wanted him to leave as soon as possible.

Although that was what everyone was thinking and what everybody wanted,

no-one dared say it out loud.

We were all terrified.

The Dalai Lama received news that the Chinese were planning to attack the crowd

surrounding the Norbulingka and bomb the building

Convinced that if he left the people would be saved he decided he had to leave

Of course, topmost in my mind is fear,

sadness.

And almost the feeling of... desperate.

And also leaving some of my close friends.

Sweepers, or some monks, who look after the temples,

or the libraries at Norbulingka.

And including my dog.

At the human level - very sad.

One factor.

Then also...

several thousand Tibetan supposed a different Norbulingka.

So that was an additional worry.

If something happened, then thousands of people will die.

Then also my own life is in danger.

One person 's future, but the future of Tibet is also related.

So, therefore, anxiety,

fear, a little doubt, hesitation,

and sadness - all mixed.

Very much mixed.

That night the Dalai Lama escaped from the Norbulingka

disguised as a Tibetan soldier

I had an indescribable feeling.

On the one hand, I was exultant that His Holiness was able to leave.

On the other hand, I was very sad when I saw him.

Unlike the usual protocol and fanfare,

he left wearing an ordinary brown uniform,

carrying a rifle, like a soldier.

DALAI LAMA: the next day, we reached southern Tibet.

Then in fear of my life no longer.

Then we have no hesitation to criticise our Chinese brothers and sisters.

While in Lhasa, although sometimes we criticised,

but from one corner of our mind:

Be carful! Be carful! Be carful!

All that kind of situation.

As soon as we reached southern Tibet,

free from Chinese forces,

we get some... some extraordinary feeling.

Now free.

Freedom!

Two weeks later after an arduous journey through the Himalayas

the Dalai Lama reached safety in Northern India

That morning around dawn, they began shelling the Norbulingka.

At around nine or ten, I went to Chakpori Hill

to the defensive position I'd been assigned to monitor.

When I looked towards the Potala, I saw there was a huge fire in the eastern wing.

Near the accounts section, a huge fire.

the cannon bombardment started from the bottom of the hills upwards.

That was followed by the rat-tat-tat of the machine-gun fire. It was relentless.

In any cash, eventually, even the Tsuglagkhang was taken over and completely looted.

Everything except for the Jowo statue and the Song Tsan Chapel.

It was left like an empty shell.

Everything else was destroyed.

It was taken over by the Chinese soldiers and turned into... what's the word in Chinese?

A tro tay.

We weren't allowed in because it was turned into a military barracks

and heavily guarded.

Then around four or five in the evening,

when I looked across at the Rammakan Ferry crossing,

I saw large numbers of Tibetan horsemen, foot soldiers and ordinary people.

Many of them were from the Tibetan Volunteer Force.

Then the relentless bombardment began.

In the dust and smoke, I saw people and horses falling.

the intense bombardment went on for about an hour or two.

That day, over a thousand of our people were killed.

I saw it all with my very own eyes.

The Tibetan Resistance

made up of freedom fighters and monks who had taken up arms for the first time in their lives

were no match for the Chinese army

They surrendered after three days

The Tibetan government was abolished

and the Chinese systematically began to destroy Tibetan society

and its Buddhist culture and traditions

Monasteries were looted and scriptures burnt

Nuns and monks were forced to denounce their faith

They were also made to discard their robes and grow their hair

They were even forced to marry each other

Class resentment amongst the peasants over Tibet's feudal system was ruthlessly exploited

The government official and aristocrats had their long hair shaved off

were imprisoned or forced to do menial jobs

They were subjected to public interrogation sessions many resulting in death

The Indian government granted the Dalai Lama political asylum

and 80000 refugees escaped from Tibet to join him

He has lived here in Dharamsala known as 'Little Lhasa' ever since

The Dalai Lama appealed to the United Nations

calling on China to respect the human rights of Tibetans

and their desire for self determination

Despite three resolutions adopted by the UN General A assembly

the fact that thousands of monasteries were destroyed

and hundreds of thousands of Tibetans were imprisoned in labour camps

the international community refused to intervene

It's tragic that Tibetans have lost their homeland,

and with no tangible international intervention.

But, coming here, looking round, one can see that despite everything

Tibetans retain their sense of national identity, their culture and their pride.

Looking at these pictures that you have here in front of me,

it's entirely a different world.

And, to me, it's very sad.

My grandfather wanted Tibet...

I get very emotional to talk about Tibet, you know.

My grandfather wanted Tibet to be with the outside world,

and to join the United Nations, and to educate the Tibetans outside

and to be more with the modern world.

But his visions and his wishes,

and also the 13th Dalai Lama and the 14th Dalai Lama,

had a wish that we must have contact with the international world.

But, unfortunately, from our own side, we were so blind,

and we knew nothing of the outside world.

We were just so engrossed in our little pond.

You know? So...

We knew nothing, what was happening to the world, what could happen,

and so we lost our country.

the Dalai Lama advocates a middle way,

which means he wants Tibetans to move back to Tibet

even if they become a minority within China,

but a minority with a degree of self-rule.

He remains determined that the dialogue between the Chinese and the Tibetans

remains peaceful and positive.

Middle way approach is the best.

So the present Chinese government's policy regarding different minorities,

particularly regarding Tibet,

is not healthy, or not good, for the long-run.

So new opinions, as is better awareness, now coming.

So, therefore, basically, I'm hopeful.

Thank you.

Phuntsog Tsering escaped to India in 1959

He is now the Dalai Lama's personal tailor

Shewo Lobsang Dargye spent 15 years in a Chinese prison in Lhasa

He escaped to India in 1985

and became the Chief Justice Commissioner for the Tibetan Government in Exile

Usur Nawang Tashi escaped to India in 1959

He retired as a cham teacher in 1990

The Venerable Jampa Tsultrim served 20 years in a Chinese prison in Lhasa

He escaped in 1980 and works for the Dalai Lama's private office

The Venerable Tenzin Choenyi Tara escaped from Tibet in 1959

and worked for the Dalai Lama's private office until he retired in 2003

Jampa Choedon was forced to give up being a nun and marry a monk

She escaped to India in 1984

Professor Samdhong Rinpoche escaped to India in 1959

He is now the Prime Minister of the Tibetan Government in Exile

Namgyal Taklea left Tibet in 1956

She has lived in Switzerland America and now India

working for the Tibetan Government in Exile