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Hi, I�m Rick Steves,
back with more of the best of Europe.

This time we�re in the South of France
mixing Roman ruins,

fine wine, a little Van Gogh

and even a French bullfight.

Get ready for�not a year�

but an exhilarating half hour in Provence.

Deep in the South of France Provence offers
a rich palette of travel experiences:

scenic, historic and cultural.

It�s the ideal region to immerse yourself
in the good life of France�

and you may just come up a Francophile.

We�ll marvel at an ancient aqueduct,

savor C�tes du Rh�ne wine
in its birthplace,

experience the quintessential Proven�al market,

play a little boules,
follow in the footsteps of van Gogh

and dodge bulls in a 2000-year-old arena.

France is nearly as big as Texas.

The region of Provence stretches
from the Mediterranean coast

up the Rh�ne River Valley.

We�ll cross the Pont du Gard,

sip our way through
the C�tes du Rh�ne wine region

and explore the cities of N�mes,

Arles, Avignon
and Aix-en-Provence.

While its cities are packed with important sights,

Proven�al life feels rooted in its countryside,

small towns and vibrant markets.

Its famous fields of lavender
and sunflowers inspire painters.

Its howling mistral wind can,
as they say, blow the ears off donkeys.

And its coveted C�tes du Rh�ne wines showcase
this region�s confident mastery

of good living.

And around here,
good living is never far from nature.

Where else can you canoe
through such charming scenery

and then under a nearly
2000-year-old aqueduct?

This region�s evocative Roman ruins
make history part of the picnic.

The Pont du Gard reminds us
that throughout the ancient world,

aqueducts were stone flags heralding
the greatness of Rome.

And they still proclaim the wonders of that age.

This perfectly preserved Roman bridge supported
a canal or aqueduct on the very top.

It was a critical link,

helping keep a steady river of water
flowing cross-country to N�mes

one of the Roman Empires largest cities.

Remarkably, the water dropped
only one inch for every 350 feet.

Let's go inside.

This is what Roman aqueducts were all about.

This is part of a 30-mile long channel;
A man made river flowed through this for 400 years.

You can see the original stones,

a thin layer of mortar which waterproofed
the channel and, after centuries of use,

a thick mineral build up.

The Pont du Gard�s main arch is
the largest the Romans ever built

80 feet across.

The bridge itself has no mortar,
just ingeniously stacked stones.

Taking full advantage
of the round arch the Romans invented,

it�s made strong by gravity.

The Pont du Gard museum shows that

a steady supply of water was
an essential part of the Roman �art of living�

You�ll see some very old plumbing,

walk through a rock quarry

and learn how they moved
those huge blocks into place

and constructed those massive arches.

All this work was designed to bring water
into the still grand Roman town of N�mes.

The water finally gushed out here

into this modest-looking distribution tank

from where it served the thirsty city�s needs.

Imagine the jubilation on that day

A.D. 50, when, suddenly,
this system was operational.

This is the very end of the aqueduct

and water would tumble out
of this hole and fill this pool.

The system was designed to prioritize, according
to how much water was available.

If the water level was high, these holes
would send water to homes of the wealthy,

decorative fountains and public baths,

but if the water level was low,

these holes would still send water
to the essential neighborhood wells.

Today, the town�s many Roman ruins
testify to N�mes� former importance.

The Maison Carr�e
rivals Rome�s Pantheon

as the most complete building surviving
from the Roman Empire.

The temple survived in part because it�s been
in constant use for the last thousand years.

The lettering across the front is long gone,

but the remaining �nail holes� presented
archeologists with a fun challenge:

match the pattern of nail holes
to the letter it once held.

And they solved the puzzle. They determined that
the temple was built to honor Caius and Lucius,

the grandsons of Emperor Augustus.

And from this information,
they dated the temple to the year 4 A.D.

N�mes' Arena, which is still in use,
is considered the best preserved from ancient Rome.

It�s another fine example of
Roman engineering... and Roman propaganda.

In the spirit of �give the masses bread and circuses�
admission was free.

The emperor�s agenda: to create
a populace that was thoroughly Roman

enjoying the same activities and
the same entertainment, all thinking as one

The arena still hosts colorful pageantry.

And macho men still face dangerous beasts�

Bulls.

A bullfight a la Proven�ale is more sporting
than bloody Spanish bullfights.

A tiny ribbon, laced between the horns,
sits on the bull�s forehead.

The daredevil fighters, gripping special hooks,
try to snare a ribbon.

The loudspeaker announces the reward
various local businesses offer

to the man who gets the ribbon.
It�s both advertising

�Pierres� patisserie� offers 100 euros,
and encouragement for the fighters.

If the bull pulls a good stunt,

the band congratulates him with
a tune from the opera Carmen.

Unlike more bloody bullfights, in Provence the bull,
who, locals stress, �dies of old age�

always prances proudly out of the arena.

Many travelers visit N�mes only
for its famous Roman sights

and are pleasantly surprised
by the rest of the town.

Inviting pedestrian streets and caf�-filled
squares give it a relaxing charm.

A foundation of N�mes� affluence was denim,
a fabric that seems as American as apple pie.

But the word denim actually means
�from N�mes�� de N�mes.

In the early 1700s,
N�mes had a thriving textile industry.

And it needed a reliable source of water to
power its mills and help dye its famous fabric.

To support its denim producers, the city built
an extensive system of industrial canals

which was ornamented with
a lavish Versailles-type park.

This happened just 50 years after the construction
of the king�s palace at Versailles

and, to the French, this peoples' place
has a special significance.

These were the first grand gardens designed,
not for royalty, but for the public.

N�mes is an hour�s drive from
the sunny C�tes du Rh�ne region.

Here you�ll follow one of
France's favorite wine roads,

weaving through a rustic landscape carpeted with vines
and peppered with warm stone villages.

The lovingly tended vines
of the C�tes du Rh�ne

grown on the c�tes, or hillsides,
of the Rh�ne River Valley

make wines that are delightful on your palate
yet easy on your pocketbook.

Traveling in May we see the selection of just the best
spring shoots on these gnarly old vines.

This region was first planted with grapes
by the Greeks, around 600 B.C.

Romans built upon what the Greeks started,
realizing even back then that here in Provence

the stony soil, mild winters and long,
hot summers were ideal for producing great wine.

Most villages have winemaking co-ops, offering
a handy one-stop place to taste the various wines.

My friend and fellow tour guide
Sabine Leteinturier is joining us

to be sure I get the fine points
of Proven�al culture just right.

Wait until you get to taste these wines.
This is the Caveau de Gigondas.

It�s a cooperative.

Within the C�tes du Rh�ne, villages like
Gigondas, have family-run wineries.

Visitors are presented with a list and from that
they can sample from an enticing selection.

The tiny sampling bottles are filled
directly from the barrel.

Because you�re buying direct from the grower,
prices are excellent.

Vintners are happy to work with you,
if they can figure out what you want.

Knowing what you like, drier, full-bodied,
more fruity, less tannic and so on, is helpful.

And knowing the term in French
is even more helpful.

If I�m shopping for wine, I�m often thinking,
like most Americans of the grape.

I�m thinking like a Merlot or Sarah
or something like this�

For French wine you really do not have
an indication of the grape,

but what you will have on the label
is where the wine is coming from.

Which will give you the snapshot of the terrior.

What is the terrior?

Terrior describes the physical condition,
the climatic condition of where the vineyard is.

So, you have a reference to the soil,
the slope, how much sun it gets.

So if you know the terroir,
you know the personality of the wine.

Absolutely!

So, you come into a place like this
and you have about 50 different selections,

how do you know which wine you want?

Well the first thing you have to decide is
what�s for dinner ?

Are you going to have grilled meat,
game, a strong meat with a sauce?

And then we select the wine.

So you go to a friends house and they�re
serving some game with a spicy sauce

and they come up with an off the wall wine�
you�re aware of that?

Yes, absolutely.

They conceived it, like creating the instrumentation
for a different musical composition.

That�s right, you really get that subtlety.

Ah, I was thinking oboes and
you were thinking French Horns.

The French eat long and well
especially here in the south.

Relaxed tree-shaded lunches, long dinners and
lazy afternoons at outdoor caf�s are the norm.

The French have a legislated
35-hour workweek...

and, it seems,
a self-imposed 30-hour eat-week.

Provence has been called
France�s �garden market�

Salads are popular. Proven�al cuisine loves
garlic, olive oil and herbs.

Order anything a la Proven�ale
and you�ll be well rewarded.

Laid back lunches often come with a chilled ros�,
the blush wines are considered refreshing.

They can be very good and are respected
here, along with whites and reds.

Aix-en-Provence is
the historic capital of the region.

For a tourist, Aix is delightfully free
of must-see museums or ancient ruins.

It�s simply a wealthy town, its people known
for living well and looking good.

Aix�s university gives the city a youthful energy.

Centuries ago, the King made Aix
the district�s administrative center.

Noble French families moved in,
kicking off the city�s beautiful age or belle �poque.

They lined the streets with private mansions
giving Aix its classy appearance.

Aix thrived thanks to its aristocratic population.

But when the Revolution came, and the bust
of the king up in the city hall was replaced

by a statue of Marianne�
the Lady of the Republic

suddenly it became dangerous
to be an aristocrat.

Aix�s wealthy fled the city and
it slumbered through most of the 1800s.

But today, once again it�s resumed
its trendy ways.

The main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, is designed
for the rich and famous to strut their fancy stuff.

It survives much as it was:
narrow for traffic and very wide for pedestrians

who would promenade under
their elegant mansions.

Cours Mirabeau remains the place
for tendance, that�s trendiness.

The French are world-class people watchers.
Enjoy the show.

In Aix�s old town, inviting pedestrian streets
hum with activity.

Towns are particularly lively on market days.

Good guidebooks list market days and travelers who
plan well enjoy the most vivid experience.

Aix�s farmer�s market is
a classic Proven�al scene

rustic farmers selling fresh produce under
the shade of graceful plane trees.

Freshness is everything in Proven�al cooking.

Here�s your garlic,
essential to Proven�al cuisine.

You can�t cook without it.

And you have your herbs of Provence,
you have your dried sage,

thyme, rosemary.
We�re all set for cooking.

Bonjour. This is goat cheese.
In Provence we have goat cheese not cows cheese.

And it�s not so strong.

It's very good� it�s delicious.
It goes from mild to stronger in taste with age.

Au revoir.

And just beyond any market you�re likely
to find the local gang playing boules.

Boules is the horseshoes of southern France.

It's played in every village on gravelly courts
kept just for this purpose.

Every French boy grows up playing boules.

It�s entertaining to watch,
especially if you understand the rules.

Boules is played with heavy metal balls
(or boules) and a tiny target ball.

Whoever gets their boule closest
to the target ball scores.

There are two on a team, one lobs the ball
as close to the target as he can.

The other tries to knock away
the opponent�s boules.

Once all the balls have been launched
and the attempted blasting is over,

measurements are made.

Whoever ends up with the ball closest
to the target receives one point.

The first to reach thirteen wins.

Between rounds, players are happy
to let curious travelers give it a try.

The nearby city of Avignon is famous for
its papal palace and broken bridge.

Contemporary Avignon prospers
behind its mighty medieval walls.

With its large student population
and fashionable shops,

Avignon is an intriguing blend
of youthful spirit and sophistication.

Its foreboding papal palace
dominates the old town.

During most of the 14th century
the Catholic Church was run from here in Avignon.

In 1309, the French-born pope Clement V
moved the papacy from Rome to Avignon.

All Europe recognized Clement
as the legitimate pope.

During that period Avignon grew
from a quiet village to a powerful city.

The Church basically bought up the town
and made it Europe�s largest construction zone.

It built its wall, mansions for cardinals,
residences for the entire Vatican bureaucracy,

vast public squares and
the Popes� towering palace.

After about 70 years, a later pope
moved the papacy back to Rome.

But Avignon installed it�s own rival pope and
for about 40 years there were two disputed popes

one in Rome and one in Avigon.

Finally in 1417 a Church-wide council
affirmed the Roman pope,

Avignon dropped its claim and what
was called �the Great Schism� was over.

This bridge is the �pont d�Avignon�

made famous by the 15th century folk song
known to all French school kids.

Avignon�s famous bridge was vital
for trade in the Middle Ages.

While only a few arches survive,
the bridge was huge:

extending all the way to the lonely Tower of Philip the Fair,
which marked the beginning of France.

Like N�mes, industrial Avignon
was thoroughly water-powered.

Its river was split into canals
to drive waterwheels

which powered the town 19th century factories
and textile mills.

This �street of the dyers� is charming.

its limestone car barriers are carved whimsically
by amateur sculptors.

Avignon retains its
quaint industrial age souvenirs.

But its sleek new train station,
which welcomes France�s Bullet train,

is a good example of how France
is embracing modern technology

and investing in public transportation.

The 180 mph TGV trains now put the south
of France less than three hours from Paris.

And the freeways are doing
their best to keep up the pace.

In France, like almost anywhere in Europe,
the fastest way from A to B is the autoroute,or freeway.

French autoroutes come with tolls.

But if you�re in a hurry, they easily
save enough time to justify the expense.

But slow roads come with more memories.

To be all alone with
your own personal Roman ruin,

take a quick detour
to the Aqueduct of Barbegal.

These are the scant remains of
an ancient Roman power station�

channeling a river to turn their mills.

The Romans ingeniously harnessed
maximum power from the water flow.

They built a series of terraced pools
allowing the water to cascade down,

powering eight separate grinding mills.

Romans grew wheat on these vast fields and
brought the grain here to the mega watermill.

Cutting through this bluff, the water from
this aqueduct provided power

to produce enough flour each day
to feed 12,000 hungry Romans.

The mill served the nearby
Roman town of Arles�

and that�s where we�re heading.

By helping Julius Caesar defeat Marseille,

the people of Arles earned the imperial nod
and their city was made an important river port.

With its strategic over the Rh�ne River,

Arles was a key stop on the Roman road
from Italy to Spain.

After being a trading center for centuries,

Arles became a sleepy place
of little importance in the 1700s.

Allied bombers destroyed
much of the city in World War II.

But today, Arles thrives again.

This compact city is alive with Roman ruins,
an eclectic assortment of museums

and welcoming pedestrian zones.

It�s my favorite home base from which
to explore France�s Provence region.

Twice a week, Arles� ring road erupts
into an open-air market of flowers,

ready-for-ratatouille baskets of produce
and everything but car traffic.

Join in, try the olives�
sniff that lavender of Provence.

The beauty of this market
is its international flavor,

reflecting how Provence remains
a crossroads of Mediterranean cultures�

Paella from Spain, fragrant mint leaves for tea,
spices from North Africa.

The market feels a little like a bazaar
thanks to the many Algerians and Moroccans

who call Arles home.

Throughout France but especially
here in the south,

Muslim North Africans, from France�s former colonies,
have come to pick olives,

harvest fruit and so on.

While they are integrating, France is dealing
with the friction any country has

when immigrant laborers do its lowliest jobs.

The Forum Square is named for
the Roman forum that once stood here.

This square was the political and
religious center of Roman Arles.

Still lively, it�s just the place for a pastis.

This is the traditional aperitif here in Provence.

It�s a mix or blend of anise
and another herbs and you cut it

dilute it according to taste.
They serve it with a carafe of water

it�s almost a tradition before a meal to get together
with good friends and enjoy a pastis.

The most dramatic remnant
of Roman Arles is its arena.

Imagine the roar of the fans packing
this place nearly 2,000 years ago

as gladiators battled wild animals.

The floor was covered with sand
to absorb the blood.

The word �arena� actually means sand.

While the grand city of Rome could afford exotic
beasts like tigers and lions from far away places,

smaller towns like Arles made do with
snarly local beasts�wild boar, bears and so on.

Like in N�mes, the arena in Arles is still used
for concerts, bullfights and other spectacles.

In tumultuous medieval times,
locals bricked up the arches

turning the stadium into a fortified town.

with over a hundred humble homes
crammed within its circular defenses.

Three of its medieval towers survive.

We�re staying at H�tel Calendal.

The friendly staff speaks English,
not unusual in Provence.

Its rooms are quiet and comfy,
and many come with views.

Guests enjoy Internet access,
an enticing breakfast buffet

and the shady, Proven�al chic courtyard.

The Calendal provides just the mix
of comfort and economy I look for

when researching my guidebooks.

Nearby, the Arlatan Museum was founded to give
locals an appreciation of their cultural roots.

And around here that starts
with ancient Rome

the building itself seems to embrace
an evocative old temple.

Visitors enjoy an intimate look
at Proven�al folk culture

including traditional dress from
the 18th and 19th centuries.

Freestanding wedding armoires
were given to brides by parents

and filled with the essentials
to begin a new life.

Carved wooden cages, called Panetiere,
hung from the walls,

keeping bread away from hungry critters.

Proven�al traditions are remembered:

Here a wealthy woman just had a baby

and is visited by friends bringing gifts
representing physical and moral qualities

hoping the baby will be full as an egg,
wise as salt and straight as a match.

Perhaps Arles most famous resident
was a Dutchman, Vincent van Gogh.

He was 35 when he moved here, in 1888

and it was here that he discovered the light
that inspired in him an explosion of creativity.

Van Gogh, coming from the gray skies
and flatlands of Holland and Paris

was inspired by everything Proven�al.

He claimed, �the whole future of art
is to be found here, in the South of France�

Here in Arles, nearly everywhere you turn,

you see scenes that could have inspired Van Gogh.

While here he worked in a flurry,

producing more paintings than at any
other period of his too-brief career

nearly 200 canvases in just over a year.

You can still visit the places that
inspired him like this hospital courtyard.

While all Van Gogh left in Arles
was a chunk of his ear

you won�t find any paintings,
his legacy continues at the Fondation Van Gogh.

It features a stimulating collection
of works by contemporary artists

paying homage to Van Gogh through their
thought-provoking interpretations of Vincents� work.

Whether you�re in search of the magic light
like Van Gogh, perhaps the best Roman ruins anywhere;

a bloodless bullfight,
lessons in boules,

or just the right wine�
Provence has it all.

Vive la Provence. I hope you�ve enjoyed our look
at this small, but endearing slice of France.

I�m Rick Steves.

Until next time,
keep on traveling.

Au revoir.