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1
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I've been travelling through East
Africa, visiting countries with a bad
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00:00:12,280 --> 00:00:14,680
reputation, to see if we should give
them another go.
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00:00:15,180 --> 00:00:20,360
So far, I've seen the delights of Uganda
and Rwanda.
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00:00:21,260 --> 00:00:26,040
Now, after an exploding volcano and a
civil war wrecked my original plans,
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00:00:26,040 --> 00:00:28,180
moved on to Madagascar.
6
00:00:28,680 --> 00:00:31,700
Would I find an island full of talking
lions and dancing lemurs?
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00:00:32,159 --> 00:00:37,140
Find out on this thrilling episode of
The Misadventures of Romesh Ranganathan.
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In a language they couldn't even begin
to understand, I'd bid farewell to the
9
00:00:48,880 --> 00:00:49,880
gorillas of Rwanda.
10
00:00:50,380 --> 00:00:54,940
Boarding a plane to Madagascar, a former
French colony that constitutes the
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00:00:54,940 --> 00:00:56,600
fourth largest island on Earth.
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00:00:59,720 --> 00:01:03,040
We are in Madagascar. I'm very, very
excited.
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00:01:03,960 --> 00:01:07,160
I've watched the film, thought the first
two were great, I thought the third one
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00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:08,860
was slightly lacking, if I'm being
honest with you.
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A group of animals leave New York Zoo
and they end up in Madagascar.
16
00:01:13,760 --> 00:01:17,460
And Madagascar literally symbolises the
middle of nowhere. So I wasn't expecting
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this. It would have been a very
different film if you saw the group of
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wandering through this town.
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List five things about Madagascar that
you know.
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00:01:27,520 --> 00:01:28,640
Madagascar 1, 2 and 3.
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An island.
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And Liberated Sardine.
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I'm just looking forward to finding out
what this place is about.
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00:01:41,460 --> 00:01:43,300
My guide for the week would be Bic.
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a diving instructor from the south of
the island.
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Vic.
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00:01:48,030 --> 00:01:48,848
Hey, mate.
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How you doing, brother?
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Nice to meet you, finally.
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How are you? Nice to meet you, too. I'm
good, I'm good, I'm good. Yeah, welcome
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to Madagascar. I can't believe I'm here.
I know nothing about Madagascar. That's
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the reason I've come.
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Yeah, okay. To find out all about it.
Our life here is, we say, Mura Mura.
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Mura mura. Mura mura. It means
everything is like slowly, slowly.
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00:02:08,820 --> 00:02:09,880
Okay? Okay.
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Now you're talking my language.
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Are you hungry?
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Yeah, always hungry.
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Okay, so we get the taxi.
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Let's get this one.
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We go to another.
42
00:02:21,220 --> 00:02:22,079
Okay.
43
00:02:22,080 --> 00:02:23,080
Hello.
44
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Very cozy.
45
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Our taxi is a bit, you know.
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Big told me we would be spending time
seeing the cultural and natural delights
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the country has to offer.
48
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Venturing up and down the west coast of
the island, experiencing Madagascar's
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00:03:05,780 --> 00:03:08,840
unique vistas, flora, and fauna.
50
00:03:09,340 --> 00:03:12,980
But we would start with a lunchtime trip
to the biggest market on the island,
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located in the chaotic capital,
Antanananananananaviro.
52
00:03:22,040 --> 00:03:23,820
Yeah, so we're gonna get some puke.
53
00:03:27,040 --> 00:03:28,740
They don't fill it straight into the
car.
54
00:03:29,540 --> 00:03:32,760
Well, the taxi are filling on the
jerrycan.
55
00:03:33,160 --> 00:03:36,500
So taxi drivers are driving around with
a can full of fuel at all times?
56
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All the time. So as soon as they have a
client, they get the money, hide the
57
00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:43,040
fuel, and then they all off they go. See
now?
58
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Like most of them full.
59
00:03:46,300 --> 00:03:49,040
We've got two full cans of fuel in the
car.
60
00:03:49,440 --> 00:03:50,560
It's going to be a spare one.
61
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And he's filling it here?
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Yeah. So he just puts a straw in the can
and then that's it?
63
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That's it, yeah. I can't believe it.
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I hope our driver's a non -smoker.
65
00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:10,420
Vic told me that the capital, known
locally by the much more manageable
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00:04:10,580 --> 00:04:15,040
is home to over three million
inhabitants, a unique melting pot of
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colonial, Indian and African influences.
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He took me along to the local market to
sample the delicious local cuisine.
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00:04:23,400 --> 00:04:24,980
Okay. This is the final soup.
70
00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:30,260
It's a really good soup. Okay. But
fortunately, you are vegan, so... So, is
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a delicacy, then?
72
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What do you mean?
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I think, like, it's a speciality dish.
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Yes. This one is very special, yeah.
This is amazing. Everybody has stopped
75
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a bowl. Yeah. So, what is this soup?
What is that meat?
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Basically, the soup, it's made of, like,
you know, the... You know, the dish.
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And it's very famous, and only here you
can... That's... You're going to find
78
00:04:52,440 --> 00:04:53,580
that. Is it dick soup?
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00:04:54,520 --> 00:04:56,200
Yeah, the dick of the zebu.
80
00:04:56,600 --> 00:04:57,479
What's a zebu?
81
00:04:57,480 --> 00:05:01,160
Zebu is a cow, like a type of cow. Oh,
like a cow, okay.
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00:05:01,740 --> 00:05:02,740
Is it dick soup?
83
00:05:02,940 --> 00:05:03,779
It is.
84
00:05:03,780 --> 00:05:07,580
So they chop like a piece of it like
that. That's a slice of penis.
85
00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:10,520
It is. How big is a zebu's dick?
86
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It's about like a meter and a half long.
87
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You know, it's a big animal.
88
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You know, it's like 500 kilograms of
animal.
89
00:05:18,360 --> 00:05:20,440
So that's slightly smaller than an
average dude. Yeah.
90
00:05:21,660 --> 00:05:23,180
What's the reason for eating dick?
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00:05:23,520 --> 00:05:26,680
Well, basically the zebu dicks give you
strength.
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Yeah.
93
00:05:29,180 --> 00:05:30,180
Okay.
94
00:05:32,060 --> 00:05:33,060
Very good.
95
00:05:33,160 --> 00:05:35,080
Is it only zebu dick in this soup?
96
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And I mix it up with some vegetable.
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This is dick and two veg? Yes.
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And how does the dick taste?
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It tastes like a very soft meat, you
know? This is a weird question, but does
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taste dicky? Are you aware of the dick?
I think... I wear off the dick.
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00:05:52,660 --> 00:05:54,960
How often do you have this?
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Because I'm going to be honest with you,
part of me thinks that you've tried
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00:06:00,100 --> 00:06:03,560
this to try it, but it's not a regular
thing for you. Do you have this all the
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00:06:03,560 --> 00:06:05,500
time? No, I don't think so.
105
00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:07,160
But nice?
106
00:06:07,720 --> 00:06:08,720
Yeah.
107
00:06:12,980 --> 00:06:17,360
I think you're not used to eating dick
either, are you?
108
00:06:25,380 --> 00:06:26,480
Okay, are we good?
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Very good.
110
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We can't have any more. Don't make him
have any more.
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With Bix suitably stuffed, we ease back
into the taxi for a drive up to the
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rover. The old palace once home to the
island's notorious Mad Queen.
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Look at this view.
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Yeah, it's really high up.
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That's the lake.
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So this is the wall for the Mad Queen
Palace.
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Queen Ranavaluna I ruled the kingdom of
Madagascar from this palace from 1828 to
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1861, a time during which she earned a
reputation for unsurpassed cruelty.
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Having succeeded her husband Radama, she
marked her coronation by bathing in a
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vat of bull's blood and quickly set
about trying to eliminate all foreign
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influence on the island.
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Her 33 -year reign saw her slaughter
Christians in their thousands and
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repel European colonial advances, with
enemies infamously taken to this spot
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high above the city and thrown from the
cliff to their death.
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She's quite tough, eh?
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She was trying to get rid of all of the
outside influences, colonialism, etc.
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Exactly. And if you didn't agree, then
you go over the top here?
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00:07:52,720 --> 00:07:59,720
Yeah, over the top here, or burn with
the hot oil or hot water. She killed
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like, 2 .5 million people.
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The most murderous woman in history.
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Anyone, like, not following her, she
just cut the head and killed it.
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Quite for long.
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You didn't bring me up here for any
other reason. You're not going to throw
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off, eh?
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00:08:17,270 --> 00:08:18,270
Of course not.
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That's her, but not me.
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You see how beautiful the place is.
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36 years after Rana Valluna's death, the
French finally established a colony
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here and ruled until an independent
republic was established in the late
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A legacy that can still be felt today
throughout the country.
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My first thoughts of Hanna are that it's
sort of got that kind of Catholic kind
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of energy that you sort of both expect
and slightly enjoy, I guess. It's like
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every crossing of the road is a brush
with death.
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You're much closer to other people than
you feel comfortable with.
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Stuff like that. I like it. It's good.
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The taxi, to be in such a tiny car with
an open can of petrol in it, it's
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incredible. I can't believe we got
signed off for us to do. What you do is,
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get the can, there's a hole in the top,
you pop it in like a straw and the car
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drinks from it like it's a milkshake.
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I don't understand how it's safe.
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But you know what? It was an experience
and I am high as a kite.
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Big plan was for us to travel through
the island's western region, venturing
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towards the coast to catch up with the
Vezu fisherman tribe.
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As I would find out, Madagascar is vast
and largely impenetrable. I was told the
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journey would take a gruelling two days
by car on notoriously bad roads, just to
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travel roughly the distance from London
to Manchester.
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00:10:02,510 --> 00:10:04,630
So we, um, yeah.
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Okay, so we're going to singing.
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Where are you going to see the spiky
stone? Where are you going to see all of
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the lemurs and stuff? So it's more on
the west side. So around like where I am
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from, by the sea.
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You prefer it there?
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Oh, yeah, because there is my
environment.
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There is, you know, my home, actually.
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Do you feel the most comfortable in the
water?
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My tribe are visual.
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We live and depending on the sea for
entire our life.
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I've been living in Italy, in Bologna.
Bologna is like in the central, no sea
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and stuff.
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I don't feel that I belong in there. Not
at all. No.
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So I decided to go back home. I felt
that my ancestors are calling me,
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you know, because we are from the sea.
Yeah. I belong to the sea.
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There I am.
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It's amazing.
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Sort of how I feel about County Mall in
Crawley.
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Look at that, man.
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Look at this.
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This is the singing.
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That's the singing?
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Yeah, look by your window.
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Look at that.
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Oh, wow.
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It's amazing, isn't it?
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I can tell you're excited, aren't you?
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Oh, man, I love it.
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I'm going back home, baby.
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I'm going home.
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This is a proper dirt landing strip.
189
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Yeah.
190
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Now I feel like we're on an adventure.
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It is an adventure.
192
00:12:11,790 --> 00:12:12,990
Welcome to Stingy, brother.
193
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Thanks, class.
194
00:12:17,350 --> 00:12:18,350
Oh, man.
195
00:12:19,230 --> 00:12:23,170
Woohoo! Thank you so much. So stunning!
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Bix said that the west of the country is
arguably Madagascar's wildest... and
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most fascinating region.
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00:12:42,030 --> 00:12:46,690
Despite its proximity to the mainland,
humans only settled here around 2 ,000
199
00:12:46,690 --> 00:12:47,609
years ago.
200
00:12:47,610 --> 00:12:52,870
Madagascar grew in isolation, an African
Galapagos, where 95 % of the species
201
00:12:52,870 --> 00:12:53,970
are endemic.
202
00:12:54,890 --> 00:12:58,310
We'd be spending the afternoon climbing
through one of its most spectacular
203
00:12:58,310 --> 00:13:03,310
landscapes, the Grand Thingy, an area of
bizarre needle -like rocks formed
204
00:13:03,310 --> 00:13:04,530
millions of years ago.
205
00:13:04,930 --> 00:13:07,390
So they hike well past from here.
206
00:13:07,590 --> 00:13:08,890
How difficult is it?
207
00:13:09,390 --> 00:13:13,170
But like, I don't know, 45 -year -old
Asian man with poor coordination, only
208
00:13:13,170 --> 00:13:14,049
functioning eye.
209
00:13:14,050 --> 00:13:16,870
Not really difficult, but we need our
attention.
210
00:13:17,410 --> 00:13:18,410
Okay.
211
00:13:18,990 --> 00:13:19,990
All right, buddy?
212
00:13:20,130 --> 00:13:21,930
Me? Yeah. I'm all good.
213
00:13:22,430 --> 00:13:23,430
Good.
214
00:13:24,850 --> 00:13:26,290
It's a lot of up and down, isn't there?
215
00:13:27,530 --> 00:13:30,070
I already absolutely smashed my step
camera when we started.
216
00:13:30,690 --> 00:13:31,690
Beautiful bird.
217
00:13:34,530 --> 00:13:36,850
Do you want to know what thingies mean?
218
00:13:37,550 --> 00:13:42,370
So basically thing is mean like you were
walking on your tiptoe. Yeah, I think
219
00:13:42,370 --> 00:13:44,230
walking on tiptoes is fucking impossible
to me.
220
00:13:45,150 --> 00:13:46,150
Yeah,
221
00:13:46,530 --> 00:13:48,430
we have to clip on. Clip on?
222
00:13:48,950 --> 00:13:51,410
Yeah. Yes, baby. I was looking forward
to the clip on bit.
223
00:13:52,230 --> 00:13:53,049
Yeah, man.
224
00:13:53,050 --> 00:13:54,050
Watch out your head.
225
00:13:54,130 --> 00:13:57,150
Be careful, be careful, be careful.
226
00:13:58,450 --> 00:14:01,910
I'm sleeping here now. Oh, thanks.
You're so big. You're so lovely, man.
227
00:14:02,870 --> 00:14:03,870
Thanks, bro.
228
00:14:04,670 --> 00:14:05,790
Don't feel dizzy.
229
00:14:06,920 --> 00:14:08,020
Better be a hell of a fucking view.
230
00:14:12,600 --> 00:14:13,600
How's it going?
231
00:14:14,100 --> 00:14:16,600
Every time you think you've done the
worst of it, there's another more shit
232
00:14:16,600 --> 00:14:17,419
scary thing.
233
00:14:17,420 --> 00:14:19,620
The great thing is, they're both
naturals.
234
00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:23,860
So, I suspect this is going to end with
them carrying my body back down.
235
00:14:27,340 --> 00:14:30,880
I appreciate that some viewers will be
interested in how the thingy was formed,
236
00:14:31,020 --> 00:14:32,620
while others couldn't give a shit.
237
00:14:32,900 --> 00:14:35,960
For the latter group, I invite you now
to mute this section.
238
00:14:36,350 --> 00:14:40,690
and enjoy the wondrous sight of an
overweight man slowly wiping himself
239
00:14:40,690 --> 00:14:41,369
rock face.
240
00:14:41,370 --> 00:14:45,550
For the curious of you still with us,
the thingy was formed some 200 million
241
00:14:45,550 --> 00:14:49,930
years ago when layers of calcite
accumulated at the bottom of a Jurassic
242
00:14:49,990 --> 00:14:51,710
forming a thick limestone bed.
243
00:14:52,370 --> 00:14:56,850
Later tectonic movement pushed the
limestone up, while the sea level fell,
244
00:14:57,010 --> 00:15:01,750
leaving the rocks exposed to the
elements, while groundwater carved large
245
00:15:01,750 --> 00:15:02,750
below the surface.
246
00:15:03,310 --> 00:15:08,010
Eventually... Underground cave feelings
gave way, forming these razor -sharp
247
00:15:08,010 --> 00:15:09,009
rock towers.
248
00:15:09,010 --> 00:15:12,570
I've realised I've got no real way of
inviting the people back who muted that
249
00:15:12,570 --> 00:15:15,630
section, but they're all ignorant
pricks, so, you know, who cares?
250
00:15:17,930 --> 00:15:18,930
Oh, shit!
251
00:15:19,270 --> 00:15:20,270
Sorry.
252
00:15:23,790 --> 00:15:24,790
OK,
253
00:15:25,750 --> 00:15:26,309
you're good.
254
00:15:26,310 --> 00:15:28,070
Oh, Vic, you did me before you, man.
255
00:15:30,030 --> 00:15:31,710
We saw you were safe.
256
00:15:34,440 --> 00:15:36,060
Don't look down, look up.
257
00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:39,660
Don't look down, look up. Let the
strength save you.
258
00:16:27,080 --> 00:16:28,140
I feel like Indiana Jones.
259
00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:31,000
Indian Jones.
260
00:16:32,140 --> 00:16:33,140
Okay, just hold it there.
261
00:16:33,740 --> 00:16:36,160
Great, let's get you back over the other
side.
262
00:16:38,400 --> 00:16:40,520
I'm going to follow that on a box mark
and go, fuck yourself, mate.
263
00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:47,280
We scrambled down the thingy as quickly
as we could, needing to get back to our
264
00:16:47,280 --> 00:16:48,440
hotel before darkness.
265
00:16:49,420 --> 00:16:53,660
And I'm genuinely not exaggerating here,
in order to avoid the bandits on the
266
00:16:53,660 --> 00:16:55,720
road home, who might attack the vehicle.
267
00:16:56,570 --> 00:17:00,130
But despite the unseen dangers, I was
starting to love the country.
268
00:17:01,170 --> 00:17:07,109
Um, Bic is a different person in the
countryside than he is in the city, OK?
269
00:17:07,430 --> 00:17:11,609
When we were on the plane going over the
singies, he started going, yeah, baby,
270
00:17:11,930 --> 00:17:13,970
welcome, singy time.
271
00:17:14,170 --> 00:17:18,930
Like, his energy has changed. He whipped
up those rocks.
272
00:17:19,800 --> 00:17:20,819
He's a different dude.
273
00:17:21,040 --> 00:17:25,020
He's very, very enthusiastic about
everything, seemingly irrelevant of
274
00:17:25,020 --> 00:17:28,040
it deserves it or not. And on paper, I
should hate him, but I've got to be
275
00:17:28,040 --> 00:17:29,380
honest with you, I find it quite
endearing.
276
00:17:30,280 --> 00:17:32,800
We are the perfect odd couple, actually.
277
00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:37,140
I think we'd do well in a little sitcom
about us having to live together and
278
00:17:37,140 --> 00:17:38,240
just deal with each other's foibles.
279
00:17:40,720 --> 00:17:41,720
I'm trying to think of the backstory.
280
00:17:42,460 --> 00:17:43,920
Bic arrives from Madagascar.
281
00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:45,520
He's looking for somewhere to stay.
282
00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:47,940
I take pity on him, I take him in.
283
00:17:48,440 --> 00:17:49,500
I've got a wife and kids.
284
00:17:49,900 --> 00:17:51,480
Bic's living in the spare room.
285
00:17:51,740 --> 00:17:54,880
I find him really annoying, but my wife
and children find him absolutely
286
00:17:54,880 --> 00:17:57,780
adorable. He's like a second parent, a
third parent to my kids.
287
00:17:58,160 --> 00:18:01,100
And we get into all sorts of scrapes,
and hilarity ensues.
288
00:18:01,380 --> 00:18:03,740
Bic and Rom on BBC One.
289
00:18:11,340 --> 00:18:15,780
The next day, we prepared to travel the
short hop down to Belo Serebehina.
290
00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:23,100
The 41 -mile journey along the RN8
National Road would take a mere seven
291
00:18:23,580 --> 00:18:28,920
Along roads apparently so treacherous
that we require a specialist driver, KD.
292
00:18:29,680 --> 00:18:31,880
Driving onto this ferry would make me
shit my clothes.
293
00:18:33,060 --> 00:18:35,020
It's a very, very basic one.
294
00:18:36,260 --> 00:18:40,720
This one is a piece of cake compared to
the second ferry. Compared to the second
295
00:18:40,720 --> 00:18:41,720
one, really?
296
00:18:58,830 --> 00:18:59,830
Oh man.
297
00:19:02,930 --> 00:19:03,930
Great work, man.
298
00:19:04,490 --> 00:19:05,490
Great work.
299
00:19:06,030 --> 00:19:07,710
Really proud of you. Good job.
300
00:19:08,150 --> 00:19:09,690
I've never done anything like this, man.
301
00:19:10,090 --> 00:19:12,870
I mean, I've been on a ferry before, but
I've never been on a ferry like that
302
00:19:12,870 --> 00:19:13,870
before.
303
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:27,480
Oh, whoa.
304
00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:30,200
You can drive through this? Yeah.
305
00:19:30,420 --> 00:19:31,660
The National Road.
306
00:19:32,860 --> 00:19:33,860
Wow.
307
00:19:34,340 --> 00:19:35,400
This is incredible.
308
00:19:38,020 --> 00:19:39,340
Amazing, isn't it?
309
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:43,480
I cannot believe it.
310
00:19:44,440 --> 00:19:45,840
We're driving through a lake.
311
00:19:46,080 --> 00:19:47,080
Yeah.
312
00:19:48,400 --> 00:19:51,180
I can't believe this drive. I cannot
believe it.
313
00:19:53,100 --> 00:19:57,020
Vic told me that outside the capital,
the country is incredibly sparse and
314
00:19:57,020 --> 00:19:58,020
extremely poor.
315
00:19:58,040 --> 00:20:02,600
80 % of people here live below the
poverty line, a basic existence that has
316
00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:04,440
scarcely changed in thousands of years.
317
00:20:04,780 --> 00:20:06,960
Not helped, of course, by these roads.
318
00:20:07,320 --> 00:20:10,340
Can you explain to me what the road
situation is? What's the deal?
319
00:20:10,760 --> 00:20:15,440
The road, they should be maintained by
the government, but they are not.
320
00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:21,860
And they are taking one ariari per litre
for the road tax, yeah.
321
00:20:32,980 --> 00:20:37,080
Madagascar's corruption problem is well
documented and doesn't just extend to
322
00:20:37,080 --> 00:20:37,659
the road.
323
00:20:37,660 --> 00:20:41,700
The battle to control the supply of its
famous vanilla, the country's biggest
324
00:20:41,700 --> 00:20:46,740
export, had led to a vanilla war and
mass deforestation. Just one example of
325
00:20:46,740 --> 00:20:49,960
what should have been a boon to the
country resulting in yet more chaos.
326
00:20:51,280 --> 00:20:52,820
So where is the money going then?
327
00:20:53,040 --> 00:20:55,760
If I knew it, I would already take it.
328
00:20:58,120 --> 00:21:02,560
We don't know where that money is going.
Is that a problem all over the country?
329
00:21:03,180 --> 00:21:04,240
Everywhere. Right.
330
00:21:18,700 --> 00:21:20,840
This is a national road actually.
331
00:21:21,260 --> 00:21:22,460
This is a national road.
332
00:21:23,480 --> 00:21:27,180
You have to really want to visit
somebody to go on this road.
333
00:21:27,380 --> 00:21:28,380
Yeah.
334
00:21:38,400 --> 00:21:43,120
Our journey finally bottomed out at the
town of Belothirabahina, which had the
335
00:21:43,120 --> 00:21:46,760
feel of a gold rush town, without any
gold and without anyone in a particular
336
00:21:46,760 --> 00:21:47,760
rush.
337
00:21:51,340 --> 00:21:53,040
Travelling on these roads? Yeah.
338
00:21:53,260 --> 00:21:55,060
I feel like I've got like a core
workout.
339
00:21:55,780 --> 00:21:58,820
My spine is basically approaching sort
of powder state.
340
00:21:59,900 --> 00:22:03,620
Well, hopefully we can have like a good
treat on this restaurant.
341
00:22:03,920 --> 00:22:05,080
Yeah, I'm looking forward to it.
342
00:22:05,280 --> 00:22:07,080
Welcome to Majiboo.
343
00:22:07,840 --> 00:22:09,040
Wow. Yeah.
344
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:11,380
Very nice, isn't it?
345
00:22:12,520 --> 00:22:13,520
Ooh.
346
00:22:15,880 --> 00:22:16,880
Thank you.
347
00:22:30,040 --> 00:22:32,180
Thank you very much. It's lovely.
348
00:22:38,720 --> 00:22:39,720
It's good.
349
00:22:39,900 --> 00:22:40,859
How's the zebu?
350
00:22:40,860 --> 00:22:42,580
It's more than your mouth, man.
351
00:22:42,820 --> 00:22:44,420
Are you enjoying it? I love it.
352
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:47,200
I did not expect to be eating a meal
like this.
353
00:22:48,120 --> 00:22:49,240
It's a little tucked away.
354
00:22:49,580 --> 00:22:52,120
You wouldn't expect to find a restaurant
serving this type of food here, would
355
00:22:52,120 --> 00:22:53,120
you? I know what you mean, yeah.
356
00:22:53,360 --> 00:22:54,940
This is a unique restaurant.
357
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,980
I can't even imagine how this has
happened, but I'm glad it did.
358
00:22:58,820 --> 00:23:03,160
According to Bic, and I've got no reason
to disbelieve him, Mad Zebu was created
359
00:23:03,160 --> 00:23:06,480
to service those tourists who managed to
brave the roads long enough to get
360
00:23:06,480 --> 00:23:09,540
here. A fine dining experience in the
middle of nowhere.
361
00:23:10,680 --> 00:23:15,500
Madagascar still has only just over 300
,000 visitors a year, around a third of
362
00:23:15,500 --> 00:23:17,060
the tourists that say Uganda receives.
363
00:23:17,630 --> 00:23:21,030
The majority of those going to plush
international resorts in the north.
364
00:23:21,610 --> 00:23:25,690
I was faintly furious that this option
had been withheld from me until now, but
365
00:23:25,690 --> 00:23:27,810
the food was amazing, so I let it go.
366
00:23:28,170 --> 00:23:29,470
Thank you very much. Really good.
367
00:23:30,250 --> 00:23:31,630
Thank you so much. Thank you.
368
00:23:32,530 --> 00:23:33,890
Should we have kept the fork and knife?
369
00:23:35,730 --> 00:23:36,130
How
370
00:23:36,130 --> 00:23:44,310
come
371
00:23:44,310 --> 00:23:46,670
you decided to put such a...
372
00:23:47,440 --> 00:23:51,220
a fancy restaurant in this location i
373
00:23:51,220 --> 00:24:05,140
mean
374
00:24:05,140 --> 00:24:11,820
it's amazing to find this restaurant
here it's like a little hidden
375
00:24:11,820 --> 00:24:15,260
treasure do you find like people travel
from all around to come and eat here
376
00:24:34,399 --> 00:24:35,920
Thank you so much for having us.
377
00:24:38,420 --> 00:24:43,900
How's the flavour? Very nice, yeah.
378
00:24:44,330 --> 00:24:47,770
So the taste of the coconut is heavy or
is it... Not heavy, very light.
379
00:24:47,970 --> 00:24:49,110
It dances on the palate.
380
00:24:50,310 --> 00:24:51,310
Nice one.
381
00:24:53,010 --> 00:24:54,730
Are restaurants a big thing here?
382
00:24:55,190 --> 00:24:56,710
No, it's a new thing.
383
00:24:57,350 --> 00:24:58,770
It's not our culture.
384
00:24:59,090 --> 00:25:03,250
So rather just the family cook it and
then we enjoy it together.
385
00:25:03,470 --> 00:25:04,630
Okay, that's nice.
386
00:25:05,130 --> 00:25:07,130
Did you ask for the napkin flower?
387
00:25:07,470 --> 00:25:08,470
No.
388
00:25:08,810 --> 00:25:10,790
I know, it's a bit romantic.
389
00:25:11,250 --> 00:25:12,049
It's very romantic.
390
00:25:12,050 --> 00:25:13,990
I feel like...
391
00:25:14,320 --> 00:25:16,540
Either you're going to split up with me
or you're going to propose.
392
00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:18,360
I love you so much, Rom.
393
00:25:18,580 --> 00:25:19,580
Oh, I love you too, mate.
394
00:25:23,080 --> 00:25:30,080
We left Mads Ivo and
395
00:25:30,080 --> 00:25:31,080
boarded a ferry.
396
00:25:34,040 --> 00:25:37,880
By this point, we'd been on the road so
long I'd given up caring about things
397
00:25:37,880 --> 00:25:42,520
like itineraries, scheduled stop -offs
at must -see sites and basic comforts.
398
00:25:44,430 --> 00:25:46,030
How long on the road this morning?
399
00:25:47,310 --> 00:25:50,930
We're on the road for like four hours.
We're on the road actually for nearly
400
00:25:50,930 --> 00:25:53,310
six. Oh, okay. We're on the road for six
hours.
401
00:25:54,150 --> 00:25:55,650
Okay, listen.
402
00:25:55,970 --> 00:25:58,190
You ask the question. If you know the
answer, why are you fucking asking me?
403
00:26:01,610 --> 00:26:03,150
We're on the road for about...
404
00:26:09,000 --> 00:26:13,000
I feel a little bit battered, to be
honest with you. But in terms of
405
00:26:13,240 --> 00:26:16,380
this feels like an adventure.
406
00:26:16,640 --> 00:26:17,700
It's a proper adventure.
407
00:26:17,900 --> 00:26:22,520
For example, you may be wondering why
this ferry is moving the speed that it
408
00:26:22,560 --> 00:26:26,180
It's because there's a snake in one of
the engines. It sounds like a terrible
409
00:26:26,180 --> 00:26:27,660
sequence of a Samuel L. Jackson film.
410
00:26:28,780 --> 00:26:30,740
A snake in one engine of the ferry.
411
00:26:31,780 --> 00:26:32,880
It's a much lower budget.
412
00:26:34,980 --> 00:26:36,120
But I think it's got legs.
413
00:26:36,460 --> 00:26:37,740
It hasn't, actually. It's a snake.
414
00:26:41,570 --> 00:26:47,270
So, yeah, we're running on a single
engine because the snake's in the
415
00:26:48,150 --> 00:26:51,010
I'm tired of this snake in this goddamn
single engine at this ferry.
416
00:26:54,410 --> 00:26:58,790
I guess the word about the snake in the
engine is carried across to the banks.
417
00:27:02,050 --> 00:27:03,430
He wants to dance off.
418
00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:11,800
I think he liked it.
419
00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:48,140
We carried on down what we were still
optimistically calling the road.
420
00:27:48,900 --> 00:27:52,540
The idea from here was to see some more
of the country's unique endemic
421
00:27:52,540 --> 00:27:57,580
wildlife, taking in the iconic baobab
trees, before spending some time with
422
00:27:57,580 --> 00:28:00,820
Bic's own tribe of seafaring Malagasy,
the Vezu.
423
00:28:01,669 --> 00:28:05,430
Next up, though, it was at last time for
an audience with the island's famous
424
00:28:05,430 --> 00:28:06,790
lemurs. Welcome.
425
00:28:07,530 --> 00:28:09,070
Rom. Nova.
426
00:28:09,450 --> 00:28:11,190
Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you, too.
427
00:28:11,650 --> 00:28:16,970
Before we go, I go to see the lemurs.
Just five minutes, you stay here.
428
00:28:17,190 --> 00:28:18,190
What are you going to do?
429
00:28:18,550 --> 00:28:21,670
I can tell you, it is a secret for me. A
secret?
430
00:28:21,950 --> 00:28:22,950
Yeah.
431
00:28:23,950 --> 00:28:25,030
What do you think he's doing?
432
00:28:25,470 --> 00:28:26,470
I don't know. No idea.
433
00:28:32,240 --> 00:28:37,280
We were met by a man called Nobo, who is
the lemur whisperer.
434
00:28:37,620 --> 00:28:40,840
And he said, wait here, I'm going to go
get them together.
435
00:28:41,320 --> 00:28:44,520
And then just ran around the woods a
lot.
436
00:28:45,220 --> 00:28:48,300
And after about five minutes, he said,
OK, they're here.
437
00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:51,080
Oh, my God.
438
00:28:51,800 --> 00:28:55,500
Like, he said that he couldn't tell us
his secret technique, but I think his
439
00:28:55,500 --> 00:28:59,120
secret technique was to go in there and
go, could all the lemurs gather round
440
00:28:59,120 --> 00:29:00,079
over there, please?
441
00:29:00,080 --> 00:29:01,080
Oh, man.
442
00:29:01,800 --> 00:29:04,200
It honestly felt like we were in some
sort of Lima court case.
443
00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:05,440
This is amazing.
444
00:29:05,580 --> 00:29:06,580
It is!
445
00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:08,740
I did not anticipate being this close to
them.
446
00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:13,280
Oh, man.
447
00:29:15,580 --> 00:29:17,340
I love the way they move.
448
00:29:17,820 --> 00:29:19,860
I thought it was going to be more of a
challenge than that.
449
00:29:20,260 --> 00:29:21,580
They were, like, super tame.
450
00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:28,660
It wouldn't surprise me if, like, they
were trained or something. They were
451
00:29:28,660 --> 00:29:29,660
so...
452
00:29:30,240 --> 00:29:31,280
Calm around us.
453
00:29:35,580 --> 00:29:37,180
How come their tails are so long?
454
00:29:37,860 --> 00:29:42,660
The tail is the balance for jumping.
Yeah, feels like an obvious question in
455
00:29:42,660 --> 00:29:43,660
hindsight.
456
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:46,100
Do they have any predators?
457
00:29:46,680 --> 00:29:47,680
Yeah, fusa.
458
00:29:47,700 --> 00:29:48,700
Fusa? Yeah.
459
00:29:49,320 --> 00:29:50,680
Do you have any fusas around here?
460
00:29:50,920 --> 00:29:53,300
The fusas are around in the forest.
Really? Yeah.
461
00:29:53,620 --> 00:29:55,800
Do people ever come and take them or
anything like that?
462
00:29:56,080 --> 00:29:56,879
To eat.
463
00:29:56,880 --> 00:29:57,880
To eat? Yeah.
464
00:29:58,380 --> 00:29:59,580
People eat them. Do you?
465
00:29:59,900 --> 00:30:01,080
But that's illegal, right?
466
00:30:01,320 --> 00:30:02,320
Yeah.
467
00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:03,840
Are they protected?
468
00:30:04,220 --> 00:30:06,360
Yeah. They're protected, but people
still eat them? Yeah.
469
00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:13,040
The thing is, when he said, some people
eat them, in my head, I just straight
470
00:30:13,040 --> 00:30:16,280
away imagined somebody removing a cloche
and it's just lying there with one of
471
00:30:16,280 --> 00:30:17,280
those berries in its mouth.
472
00:30:19,240 --> 00:30:20,420
That's all I could think about.
473
00:30:22,940 --> 00:30:24,720
Have you watched the film Madagascar?
474
00:30:25,000 --> 00:30:26,180
No. In...
475
00:30:26,810 --> 00:30:31,430
the film madagascar the lemurs are a big
part of that film and then they all
476
00:30:31,430 --> 00:30:35,410
dance to this song and everybody well
everybody over the world has gone crazy
477
00:30:35,410 --> 00:30:41,750
for that it's a big film not no he never
heard it i was amazed that somebody
478
00:30:41,750 --> 00:30:45,690
from madagascar who looks after lemurs
hasn't seen the film madagascar that
479
00:30:45,690 --> 00:30:49,050
heavily features lemurs have you seen
the film madagascar no do you know that
480
00:30:49,050 --> 00:30:54,010
lemurs feature heavily no he's got no
idea imagine that just want to get a
481
00:30:54,010 --> 00:30:55,010
through this lemur
482
00:31:02,760 --> 00:31:06,020
It looks like I've just photoshopped my
head in the corner of a lemur.
483
00:31:06,920 --> 00:31:08,300
I love lemurs.
484
00:31:08,680 --> 00:31:10,100
I'm not ashamed to say that.
485
00:31:13,620 --> 00:31:14,660
I'm like Dr. Dolittle.
486
00:31:15,540 --> 00:31:18,240
I just think there's something about
them, the way they move. They're
487
00:31:18,600 --> 00:31:20,660
I mean, they're up there with my
favourite animals, I think.
488
00:31:21,380 --> 00:31:22,380
They're so cute.
489
00:31:22,760 --> 00:31:23,760
King Julian.
490
00:31:25,160 --> 00:31:27,260
Walk over there and back here like a
lemur does.
491
00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:29,560
Oh yeah, I'm literally a dancing monkey,
am I?
492
00:31:57,390 --> 00:32:01,390
We reluctantly bade farewell to the
lovely lemurs and headed off into the
493
00:32:01,390 --> 00:32:03,450
seemingly endless Madagascan abyss.
494
00:32:20,950 --> 00:32:25,390
Bit tell me that locals in these rural
areas are incredibly superstitious.
495
00:32:25,850 --> 00:32:30,590
A belief system built on a strict
observance of taboos, known locally as
496
00:32:31,370 --> 00:32:33,250
You know you're telling me about these
taboos.
497
00:32:33,790 --> 00:32:36,290
Do you have a lot of them in Malagasy
culture?
498
00:32:37,290 --> 00:32:39,470
It's everywhere in Madagascar.
499
00:32:39,670 --> 00:32:41,470
Really? Is it called taboo?
500
00:32:41,730 --> 00:32:42,730
Yeah, Fadi.
501
00:32:42,910 --> 00:32:45,150
That's what you call it. Yeah, Fadi.
502
00:32:45,370 --> 00:32:46,770
Where does it originate from?
503
00:32:46,990 --> 00:32:49,790
Our ancestors, since the beginning.
504
00:32:50,130 --> 00:32:51,130
Yeah. Yeah.
505
00:32:51,710 --> 00:32:53,730
So what are the examples of Fadi then?
506
00:32:53,970 --> 00:32:55,410
Like some sacred...
507
00:32:55,740 --> 00:32:56,740
Place. Yeah.
508
00:32:57,020 --> 00:33:02,060
You cannot point a finger. You have to
do this. Or you put your finger like
509
00:33:02,060 --> 00:33:03,600
this. That way.
510
00:33:04,180 --> 00:33:05,079
Go ahead.
511
00:33:05,080 --> 00:33:06,100
That way you can do.
512
00:33:06,680 --> 00:33:08,780
We also have like bad party.
513
00:33:09,500 --> 00:33:12,380
Like on the southeast, for example.
514
00:33:12,620 --> 00:33:13,620
Yeah. There's a tribe.
515
00:33:14,140 --> 00:33:15,900
It's funny to have twins.
516
00:33:16,600 --> 00:33:17,860
It's funny to have twins.
517
00:33:18,160 --> 00:33:19,119
Yeah.
518
00:33:19,120 --> 00:33:20,580
So if you get twins.
519
00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:26,540
You have to bring the babies in front of
the ranch where you keep the Cebu. You
520
00:33:26,540 --> 00:33:28,300
open the door, you let out the Cebu.
521
00:33:28,660 --> 00:33:32,020
Then the Cebu will step on the one who
should not leave.
522
00:33:32,380 --> 00:33:36,020
If both die, it means that both should
not leave.
523
00:33:36,540 --> 00:33:37,700
That's what they do there.
524
00:33:38,780 --> 00:33:40,180
What? Yeah.
525
00:33:40,560 --> 00:33:42,080
Does that still happen today?
526
00:33:42,320 --> 00:33:48,020
Yeah, it's still happening, but now
there's an NGO who is trying to fight
527
00:33:48,020 --> 00:33:49,020
against that.
528
00:33:50,120 --> 00:33:56,120
So they are like trying to get the
second children that the parents do not
529
00:33:56,360 --> 00:33:57,360
Yeah.
530
00:33:59,940 --> 00:34:04,100
Although there are attempts to eradicate
some aspects of Sadi, others remain
531
00:34:04,100 --> 00:34:05,100
strong.
532
00:34:06,580 --> 00:34:10,860
Bic explained that according to local
police, the souls of the dead are housed
533
00:34:10,860 --> 00:34:12,320
within sacred baobab trees.
534
00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:17,139
Traditionally, holy people are able to
speak with these ancestors, and Bic
535
00:34:17,139 --> 00:34:18,320
offered to take me to a ceremony.
536
00:34:18,780 --> 00:34:20,980
where the village shaman would attempt
to make contact.
537
00:34:21,620 --> 00:34:22,639
What's the bag for?
538
00:34:48,520 --> 00:34:50,000
What exactly is going to happen now?
539
00:34:50,300 --> 00:34:54,580
What is happening now is that they are
going to ask for attendance for the
540
00:34:54,580 --> 00:34:58,040
spirit. He will become something else.
541
00:34:58,260 --> 00:35:00,160
Like someone else speak.
542
00:35:00,480 --> 00:35:02,740
So is he going to take the spirit in him
now?
543
00:35:02,960 --> 00:35:03,960
In his body.
544
00:35:04,060 --> 00:35:05,940
So we don't know what spirit is going to
arrive?
545
00:35:06,300 --> 00:35:09,420
We don't know. We have to wait who is
coming. But they will tell who is here.
546
00:35:36,939 --> 00:35:39,380
What is the knife for?
547
00:35:39,980 --> 00:35:43,040
This knife is protecting him.
548
00:35:43,920 --> 00:35:48,320
Because sometimes some other ancestors
are evil to come.
549
00:35:48,560 --> 00:35:51,680
Oh, I see. So in case a bad ancestor
comes.
550
00:35:51,940 --> 00:35:55,300
I said to Bic, what's the knife for? And
he said it's just to protect him from
551
00:35:55,300 --> 00:35:56,138
an evil spirit.
552
00:35:56,140 --> 00:35:58,520
But as far as I can tell, the spirit is
inside you. So what do you do?
553
00:36:00,860 --> 00:36:04,100
I think I'm going to dance. Maybe they
will come.
554
00:36:04,340 --> 00:36:05,660
You're going to dance? I'm going to
dance.
555
00:36:06,000 --> 00:36:10,980
Bic, for some reason, decided that the
spirit might come out more easily if he
556
00:36:10,980 --> 00:36:11,980
got up and started dancing.
557
00:36:14,350 --> 00:36:16,610
I don't know why he thought it was going
to work.
558
00:36:19,310 --> 00:36:21,230
It sort of worked a little bit by the
tree.
559
00:36:25,390 --> 00:36:32,330
What I didn't expect to see or hear was
the
560
00:36:32,330 --> 00:36:33,790
sound of a Bluetooth speaker connecting.
561
00:36:35,330 --> 00:36:38,330
So they're going to play some music?
They're going to play some music.
562
00:36:41,130 --> 00:36:42,910
Are they trying to find the right song
now?
563
00:36:44,430 --> 00:36:50,430
It turns out the clapping didn't work,
and so we had to find... Well, they went
564
00:36:50,430 --> 00:36:54,630
through a load of different Malagasy
tunes to try and see what song would
565
00:36:54,630 --> 00:36:55,630
out the spirit.
566
00:37:00,590 --> 00:37:03,370
How do they know which one to choose?
567
00:37:07,230 --> 00:37:11,190
It's quite a difficult job, that,
because you don't know which spirit's
568
00:37:12,080 --> 00:37:14,300
And even if you did know which spirit
was coming, you don't know what music
569
00:37:14,300 --> 00:37:20,600
like. So they were kind of skipping
through trying to find the type of music
570
00:37:20,600 --> 00:37:22,020
that the spirit might enjoy.
571
00:37:23,240 --> 00:37:26,480
Meanwhile, the shaman who was going to
be chanting the spirit just sort of
572
00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:27,480
sparked up a cigarette.
573
00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:31,580
It sounded like the Bluetooth
disconnected.
574
00:37:32,360 --> 00:37:33,360
Disconnected too.
575
00:37:43,310 --> 00:37:46,610
What can you do? Sometimes spirits turn
up, sometimes they don't. Thank you so
576
00:37:46,610 --> 00:37:52,930
much. I think the fact that a spirit
didn't enter that shaman gives it more
577
00:37:52,930 --> 00:37:58,830
credibility. Because to my mind, think
about any kind of medium in the UK. If
578
00:37:58,830 --> 00:38:02,610
you tell them the BBC are coming to do a
documentary, bells and whistles.
579
00:38:02,850 --> 00:38:03,848
Do you know what I mean?
580
00:38:03,850 --> 00:38:04,850
Really,
581
00:38:05,350 --> 00:38:06,390
if this was fake...
582
00:38:06,850 --> 00:38:09,990
He'd be suddenly making all these
noises, dancing, and we'd be like, oh,
583
00:38:10,050 --> 00:38:12,790
this is like the maddest spirit we've
ever seen in our lives. We've never had
584
00:38:12,790 --> 00:38:15,630
spirit like this one. Get your camera on
this. And then we'd leave just feeling
585
00:38:15,630 --> 00:38:16,630
like we really got a show.
586
00:38:16,930 --> 00:38:19,430
But, turns out, the spirit didn't feel
like it.
587
00:38:20,250 --> 00:38:21,530
Just wasn't going to happen today.
588
00:38:21,990 --> 00:38:22,990
Thank you.
589
00:38:24,730 --> 00:38:25,730
It's not his fault.
590
00:38:26,230 --> 00:38:28,050
He was sat there. Everyone was gathered
round.
591
00:38:28,310 --> 00:38:29,310
He had a crowd.
592
00:38:30,030 --> 00:38:32,990
The spirit didn't turn up. Everyone
fired out. He's on his own. That's show
593
00:38:32,990 --> 00:38:33,990
business.
594
00:38:37,290 --> 00:38:42,090
The ancestors were not coming, so
instead we headed off to a nearby beauty
595
00:38:42,270 --> 00:38:44,450
Madagascar's most iconic vista.
596
00:38:59,570 --> 00:39:02,190
Oh wow, it's beautiful, eh?
597
00:39:03,600 --> 00:39:06,660
Is this created or did this just happen?
It's happened.
598
00:39:06,860 --> 00:39:08,420
It's already... This just happened like
this?
599
00:39:08,660 --> 00:39:11,560
No one planted those. They were already
there.
600
00:39:12,020 --> 00:39:13,020
Oh, really? Yeah.
601
00:39:14,260 --> 00:39:18,460
The Avenue of the Bay of Buds is a group
of endemic trees, many of which are
602
00:39:18,460 --> 00:39:20,680
well over 2 ,500 years old.
603
00:39:38,060 --> 00:39:42,120
Although they now tower over the
surrounding scrub, the trees would have
604
00:39:42,120 --> 00:39:43,380
stood amid a thick forest.
605
00:39:44,100 --> 00:39:48,060
Gradually, as humans cleared the area
for agriculture, the trees became
606
00:39:48,060 --> 00:39:52,240
isolated, the last remnants of an
ancient, eradicated landscape.
607
00:39:53,420 --> 00:39:56,960
So how old do you reckon these are? This
is definitely like a thousand years.
608
00:39:57,280 --> 00:39:57,999
This one?
609
00:39:58,000 --> 00:39:59,520
Yes. How do you know?
610
00:39:59,850 --> 00:40:01,930
Because they grow like very slow.
611
00:40:02,390 --> 00:40:03,590
What is this one here?
612
00:40:04,210 --> 00:40:05,770
That's a tiny one. That's a baby.
613
00:40:05,990 --> 00:40:08,970
All right, let me have a guess. I reckon
that one, two years.
614
00:40:09,450 --> 00:40:10,450
No.
615
00:40:10,650 --> 00:40:14,110
What? This is not two years. I would say
50.
616
00:40:15,030 --> 00:40:16,030
50 years?
617
00:40:16,150 --> 00:40:17,150
Yeah. This one?
618
00:40:17,570 --> 00:40:21,210
I'm not sure. This one here. It takes 50
years. That's older than me.
619
00:40:22,310 --> 00:40:25,770
Okay, let me guess. This one, 150 years.
620
00:40:26,190 --> 00:40:29,590
This one is like getting a much...
That's what I think.
621
00:40:30,290 --> 00:40:32,110
No, I'm agreeing with you. I know.
622
00:40:32,430 --> 00:40:33,610
Yeah, so how old do you think?
623
00:40:34,350 --> 00:40:35,350
150?
624
00:40:36,290 --> 00:40:37,850
Yeah, I'll say that.
625
00:40:38,350 --> 00:40:39,350
Yeah.
626
00:40:40,310 --> 00:40:41,930
They grow so slow.
627
00:40:42,790 --> 00:40:44,810
This is going to be my new show,
Bayababager.
628
00:40:45,670 --> 00:40:48,010
When you look like this, it looks
incredible.
629
00:40:48,350 --> 00:40:51,430
I just can't get used to how mad these
trees look.
630
00:40:52,990 --> 00:40:56,290
Now they're looking dead, but they are
not. They are alive.
631
00:40:57,230 --> 00:40:58,990
You love these trees, don't you?
632
00:40:59,290 --> 00:41:00,290
I love them.
633
00:41:02,070 --> 00:41:03,070
It's good, man.
634
00:41:03,890 --> 00:41:04,890
Are you 100?
635
00:41:05,870 --> 00:41:06,870
Yeah.
636
00:41:07,710 --> 00:41:09,210
You got it, bro.
637
00:41:09,430 --> 00:41:10,430
You got it.
638
00:41:37,420 --> 00:41:41,440
Although the Madagascar beliefs remain
rooted in the past, BIC told me that its
639
00:41:41,440 --> 00:41:43,540
people are facing unprecedented
challenges.
640
00:41:44,400 --> 00:41:49,840
In 2021, the southern agricultural
region of Madagascar was devastated by
641
00:41:49,840 --> 00:41:51,360
worst drought in 40 years.
642
00:41:52,240 --> 00:41:56,300
Crops failed and more than a million
people were forced into food hardship.
643
00:41:58,040 --> 00:42:01,860
The effects of what has been called the
world's first climate -induced famine
644
00:42:01,860 --> 00:42:03,560
are still being felt today.
645
00:42:06,640 --> 00:42:10,280
We pulled over in what would have been
until recently a thriving, dense forest.
646
00:42:10,600 --> 00:42:13,460
Now a scorched, barren patch of
scrubland.
647
00:42:15,800 --> 00:42:19,440
How bad was the famine? Were there
people that lost their lives as a
648
00:42:19,860 --> 00:42:23,140
Yeah, it's quite bad when it happened.
649
00:42:23,880 --> 00:42:27,060
So was the country in basically a state
of emergency at that stage?
650
00:42:27,300 --> 00:42:31,100
Yes. More than half of the people
immigrated.
651
00:42:31,500 --> 00:42:32,439
From where?
652
00:42:32,440 --> 00:42:34,660
From south to go to the north.
653
00:42:35,070 --> 00:42:37,890
Right. Because on the north side, it's
more green.
654
00:42:38,250 --> 00:42:41,570
Do they believe that what they're
experiencing is a result of climate
655
00:42:41,570 --> 00:42:42,810
a result of what's happened to the
environment?
656
00:42:43,490 --> 00:42:48,010
Yeah, the people believe in that because
it's really obvious there's not much
657
00:42:48,010 --> 00:42:49,010
rain. Yeah.
658
00:42:49,130 --> 00:42:54,610
Yeah, and in the olden days, like when I
was a kid, we still have lots of rain,
659
00:42:54,910 --> 00:42:59,890
right? And then during the rain season,
like where I am from, we can plant
660
00:42:59,890 --> 00:43:03,970
during the rain season. And the dry
season, we can go for fishing.
661
00:43:04,860 --> 00:43:11,040
So that means all year round we can eat
or we can have food.
662
00:43:11,760 --> 00:43:14,460
Everybody moves to these different areas
during the famine.
663
00:43:14,700 --> 00:43:17,100
Yeah. What happens to those areas?
664
00:43:17,600 --> 00:43:20,520
The Chinese buy, you know, the peanuts.
665
00:43:20,760 --> 00:43:26,260
Yeah. Really valuable things to grow in
the peanuts. You have to clear the area.
666
00:43:26,820 --> 00:43:30,300
The Baobab is a very old tree.
667
00:43:30,970 --> 00:43:35,590
The bulb has been sacrificed. You have
to cut it to clear those forests.
668
00:43:35,890 --> 00:43:37,350
And then the people can plant.
669
00:43:37,610 --> 00:43:41,970
It's only a couple of years, one to two
to three years, you can grow on that
670
00:43:41,970 --> 00:43:43,290
land you've been clearing.
671
00:43:43,750 --> 00:43:47,710
So that means we have to clear more to
plant more.
672
00:43:48,610 --> 00:43:51,810
So it's not a situation where you just
clear some land and then that's where
673
00:43:51,810 --> 00:43:52,810
grow peanuts forever?
674
00:43:52,990 --> 00:43:53,990
No.
675
00:43:54,050 --> 00:43:55,050
Not forever.
676
00:43:55,250 --> 00:43:58,970
Did people begin to move back south or
did they stay where they are?
677
00:43:59,370 --> 00:44:03,110
They don't come back. They don't come
back? There's no point to go back and
678
00:44:03,110 --> 00:44:06,350
stuff. If they come back and what they
do, there's no rain.
679
00:44:06,810 --> 00:44:08,090
So it's been a permanent change?
680
00:44:08,310 --> 00:44:09,890
It's not returned to normal?
681
00:44:10,210 --> 00:44:11,830
It's getting worse, actually.
682
00:44:12,250 --> 00:44:15,790
As a proud Malagasy, what do you feel
about the future of the country?
683
00:44:16,410 --> 00:44:18,070
I mean, how worried are you?
684
00:44:19,310 --> 00:44:20,310
Really worried.
685
00:44:20,950 --> 00:44:25,450
Those things I've seen now, maybe my
grandchildren won't see it no more.
686
00:44:25,930 --> 00:44:30,110
We're talking about, you know, the
Baobab has been a captain. And, you
687
00:44:30,110 --> 00:44:33,970
day my grandchildren may be seen only
one or two species remain.
688
00:44:34,250 --> 00:44:35,790
Or the lemur is gone.
689
00:44:36,110 --> 00:44:39,290
Because we have the pressure for the
nature.
690
00:44:39,830 --> 00:44:43,230
We're relying on the nature to survive,
to live.
691
00:44:59,850 --> 00:45:04,310
My epic odyssey across Africa was almost
at an end. I'd been on the road for
692
00:45:04,310 --> 00:45:05,288
three weeks.
693
00:45:05,290 --> 00:45:10,110
Three weeks living alongside a film crew
had begun to feel like family. Although
694
00:45:10,110 --> 00:45:12,950
the sort of family who are really
annoying and you just want to get away
695
00:45:13,330 --> 00:45:14,730
Exactly like my real family.
696
00:45:16,390 --> 00:45:20,790
We arrived at the remote fishing village
of Belosur Mare to spend some time on
697
00:45:20,790 --> 00:45:21,790
the ocean.
698
00:45:21,830 --> 00:45:26,410
Beaches really are Madagascar's
drawcard. There are 3 ,000 miles of
699
00:45:26,410 --> 00:45:27,550
perfect beaches here.
700
00:45:27,930 --> 00:45:30,870
And Bik wanted to take me to see how his
own people live off them.
701
00:45:32,470 --> 00:45:34,030
Nice to be back in the sea.
702
00:45:34,450 --> 00:45:36,530
It gives me, like, energy.
703
00:45:39,250 --> 00:45:43,150
This is some of the reef fish that you
get here.
704
00:45:43,710 --> 00:45:44,710
Sardines.
705
00:45:45,110 --> 00:45:49,050
All of the people here are migrating
from my place down south.
706
00:45:49,510 --> 00:45:52,190
So basically, they just make a house
like this.
707
00:45:52,590 --> 00:45:55,150
So all of these people have moved here,
have they? Yeah.
708
00:45:55,870 --> 00:45:57,600
Because... It's easy to fish here?
709
00:45:58,180 --> 00:45:59,180
Yes.
710
00:45:59,560 --> 00:46:03,560
So straight away, do you feel like
mentally you're calmer when you're by
711
00:46:03,560 --> 00:46:04,519
water, yeah?
712
00:46:04,520 --> 00:46:09,860
That's how I am. If there's something
that stresses me, as soon as my head is
713
00:46:09,860 --> 00:46:14,520
under water, I'm so calm. And when I
come up, I forget those things. I seem
714
00:46:14,520 --> 00:46:15,840
fresh again here, is that?
715
00:46:16,160 --> 00:46:19,340
Really? Yeah. When my wife is stressed,
she likes to dunk my head under water.
716
00:46:19,920 --> 00:46:20,920
It calms her down.
717
00:46:21,580 --> 00:46:26,400
Where I am from, it's a village called
Lambuara. And then we have this special
718
00:46:26,400 --> 00:46:33,380
bay called Bay of the Assassins. And
when I was born, my parents took the
719
00:46:33,380 --> 00:46:34,238
belly button.
720
00:46:34,240 --> 00:46:36,580
The cord? Yes, take that.
721
00:46:36,860 --> 00:46:42,720
And then we put inside the belly button
here. And then we have to take where we
722
00:46:42,720 --> 00:46:43,359
are from.
723
00:46:43,360 --> 00:46:46,060
And then my belly button is thrown
there.
724
00:46:47,470 --> 00:46:52,130
My brother's belly button is throwing
there. My mom's belly button is throwing
725
00:46:52,130 --> 00:46:54,070
there. Where are my aclanis?
726
00:46:54,810 --> 00:46:57,650
So they're just loads and loads of belly
buttons out in the water in the sea?
727
00:46:57,850 --> 00:47:03,130
Yes. This is how we learn to sail a
pirogue. Oh, with the little toy ones,
728
00:47:03,170 --> 00:47:04,170
Yeah, we make it.
729
00:47:04,530 --> 00:47:05,870
They don't know how to make a
PlayStation.
730
00:47:07,650 --> 00:47:08,650
Oh, man.
731
00:47:09,490 --> 00:47:13,590
Vic wanted to take me out on the sea in
a pirogue for the afternoon to show me
732
00:47:13,590 --> 00:47:15,990
how the Veslu tribe have sailed here for
hundreds of years.
733
00:47:16,700 --> 00:47:20,960
migrating up and down the coast, often
living on the water for months at a
734
00:47:45,100 --> 00:47:46,760
Little bit this side. Okay.
735
00:47:49,260 --> 00:47:50,260
Following this?
736
00:47:50,540 --> 00:47:51,700
It's incredibly complicated.
737
00:47:52,260 --> 00:47:53,820
Yeah, I'm following, I'm following. It's
very complicated.
738
00:47:54,340 --> 00:47:58,200
My biggest fear currently is if he says,
no, you set up that pirogue over there.
739
00:48:01,840 --> 00:48:02,880
Woo -hoo!
740
00:48:05,140 --> 00:48:06,140
How are you?
741
00:48:08,360 --> 00:48:10,420
Woo -hoo!
742
00:48:13,080 --> 00:48:15,200
You love this pic, don't you? Oh, yeah.
743
00:48:16,040 --> 00:48:17,220
I love it.
744
00:48:21,420 --> 00:48:21,880
How
745
00:48:21,880 --> 00:48:33,760
do
746
00:48:33,760 --> 00:48:34,459
you feel?
747
00:48:34,460 --> 00:48:35,359
It's great.
748
00:48:35,360 --> 00:48:36,360
Love it.
749
00:48:36,580 --> 00:48:39,460
So these perogues. Yes.
750
00:48:40,220 --> 00:48:44,040
Is it just generation after generation
passed down how to make these, right?
751
00:48:44,240 --> 00:48:45,680
Yeah. This is a culture.
752
00:48:46,080 --> 00:48:49,820
Yeah, because it looks so like,
obviously it's homemade.
753
00:48:50,200 --> 00:48:53,620
Yeah. Then the idea that you're going to
do a homemade boat seems so crazy, but
754
00:48:53,620 --> 00:48:55,400
it's like, it works beautifully.
755
00:48:55,860 --> 00:48:56,860
I know.
756
00:48:58,220 --> 00:49:00,340
So far, I mean, we haven't got back to
shore yet.
757
00:49:00,580 --> 00:49:01,620
You want to go a little bit faster?
758
00:49:01,940 --> 00:49:03,380
Yeah, go for it. All right.
759
00:49:11,220 --> 00:49:12,220
How's that?
760
00:49:15,600 --> 00:49:16,700
That's so good, man.
761
00:49:17,380 --> 00:49:20,240
Do you know what's fun, Vic? It's seeing
how much you love it, man.
762
00:49:21,640 --> 00:49:22,640
Thank you, man.
763
00:49:23,180 --> 00:49:24,180
How about yourself?
764
00:49:24,480 --> 00:49:25,780
Oh, it's good. It's so good.
765
00:49:28,960 --> 00:49:32,500
So what age were you when you started
being in boats like this?
766
00:49:32,900 --> 00:49:35,780
I grew up with my grandfather every
holiday.
767
00:49:38,530 --> 00:49:39,530
Well,
768
00:49:51,050 --> 00:49:54,790
you hold each other's head?
769
00:49:55,050 --> 00:49:58,390
Yeah. So how long do you think you can
hold your breath underwater for?
770
00:50:00,190 --> 00:50:02,490
Two to three minutes?
771
00:50:03,870 --> 00:50:04,870
Yeah. There you go.
772
00:50:05,050 --> 00:50:06,070
I can do that.
773
00:50:07,049 --> 00:50:08,050
Well, I've got to then prove it.
774
00:50:11,730 --> 00:50:13,330
So, what's going on so far then?
775
00:50:13,670 --> 00:50:18,470
Well, Bic's kind of in his element when
it comes to this kind of thing. And he's
776
00:50:18,470 --> 00:50:21,830
been showing me how to sail the Faroe.
At one point he said to me, do you want
777
00:50:21,830 --> 00:50:22,589
to help?
778
00:50:22,590 --> 00:50:25,330
And I said, yeah. And I thought, okay,
cool. He's trusting me. So, can you move
779
00:50:25,330 --> 00:50:27,350
up the other end? Because there's too
much weight down this side.
780
00:50:28,550 --> 00:50:30,570
So, basically, what I've done is I've
been ballast.
781
00:50:31,430 --> 00:50:32,430
One minute?
782
00:50:32,710 --> 00:50:33,669
That was one minute?
783
00:50:33,670 --> 00:50:34,670
Yep.
784
00:50:35,090 --> 00:50:36,090
So, like...
785
00:50:36,140 --> 00:50:37,160
Yeah, it's been fun.
786
00:50:37,840 --> 00:50:39,160
It's been like a good time.
787
00:50:39,680 --> 00:50:43,840
At what point do we go down and like
check that he's okay?
788
00:50:44,840 --> 00:50:49,340
I think he's been such a great guide and
like showing me around the country and
789
00:50:49,340 --> 00:50:50,740
everything. Oh, he's up.
790
00:50:51,440 --> 00:50:52,440
Yes.
791
00:50:54,280 --> 00:50:56,000
That is big, isn't it? Yes.
792
00:50:57,740 --> 00:50:58,740
How long was that?
793
00:51:00,280 --> 00:51:01,280
One minute.
794
00:51:02,430 --> 00:51:04,270
58. One minute 58.
795
00:51:04,510 --> 00:51:06,650
Two minutes. We'll round it up.
Congratulations, brother.
796
00:51:07,310 --> 00:51:08,310
Great stuff.
797
00:51:08,610 --> 00:51:09,610
You want to try?
798
00:51:09,990 --> 00:51:12,210
No. I want to see how you do it.
799
00:51:13,330 --> 00:51:15,970
All right. I'm just going to do one
minute 59 and come back up.
800
00:51:17,210 --> 00:51:18,710
We've got to get back to shore.
801
00:51:24,670 --> 00:51:26,690
How long have you been down there?
802
00:51:27,310 --> 00:51:30,110
Me? How long have you been down? Oh,
fuck it up.
803
00:51:35,890 --> 00:51:38,830
I panicked and I hit my head on the
bottom of the boat!
804
00:51:40,310 --> 00:51:42,110
Are you okay?
805
00:51:43,550 --> 00:51:44,550
I'm fine, I'm fine.
806
00:51:49,350 --> 00:51:55,350
That was horrible.
807
00:51:56,590 --> 00:52:01,570
I started shitting myself as soon as I
went under the water. That is horrific.
808
00:52:02,440 --> 00:52:04,340
And then I thought, I'm never going to
get back up again.
809
00:52:04,800 --> 00:52:06,500
And then I hit my head just under there.
810
00:52:07,060 --> 00:52:08,060
How long did I do?
811
00:52:09,040 --> 00:52:10,040
Ten seconds.
812
00:52:11,700 --> 00:52:12,700
Good, then.
813
00:52:14,040 --> 00:52:15,040
Good, then.
814
00:52:16,700 --> 00:52:20,140
Although many of the people that were
staying in Bello Sommel were nomadic
815
00:52:20,340 --> 00:52:22,240
there is a permanent community here.
816
00:52:22,740 --> 00:52:26,220
Families of boat builders who still
construct schooner ships in the way the
817
00:52:26,220 --> 00:52:28,940
French taught their ancestors 200 years
before.
818
00:52:29,280 --> 00:52:33,210
As luck would have it, They were
launching a vessel that afternoon and
819
00:52:33,210 --> 00:52:37,250
Bic and me along to help. I'd say as
luck would have it, we'd actually beg
820
00:52:37,250 --> 00:52:39,590
to hold off until the afternoon so we
could film it for our finale.
821
00:52:39,990 --> 00:52:41,330
But everything else is real.
822
00:52:41,950 --> 00:52:43,130
What is this? We're going thinner?
823
00:52:43,410 --> 00:52:48,250
This is like launching the boat in the
water. So it's a big ceremony for the
824
00:52:48,250 --> 00:52:51,270
vessel. So every time they build a boat,
there's a party?
825
00:52:51,590 --> 00:52:52,590
Yes.
826
00:52:55,450 --> 00:52:58,430
They're going to launch the boat. I
mean, we have to help too.
827
00:52:58,880 --> 00:52:59,519
We have to?
828
00:52:59,520 --> 00:53:00,600
We have been invited.
829
00:53:01,120 --> 00:53:02,540
Okay. So what do we do? Do we push?
830
00:53:02,760 --> 00:53:04,500
We push or pull.
831
00:53:04,780 --> 00:53:09,980
And then it's long rope over there.
Okay. Whatever you prefer. No, you tell
832
00:53:10,100 --> 00:53:15,500
I think we prefer to be on the front.
Okay. So we can pull it and it's more
833
00:53:15,500 --> 00:53:19,080
space. Okay. Let's go a little bit
further so not close to the boat.
834
00:53:19,300 --> 00:53:20,620
Because it's your first time.
835
00:53:20,980 --> 00:53:24,740
Oh, yeah. Because some people fell down
and they get an injury from it. Are you
836
00:53:24,740 --> 00:53:26,380
serious? Yeah, I'm really serious.
837
00:53:28,900 --> 00:53:31,740
Right here. Okay, this is go. Oh my god.
838
00:53:33,820 --> 00:53:34,820
Stop, stop.
839
00:53:34,880 --> 00:53:35,880
Stop, stop.
840
00:53:37,040 --> 00:53:38,040
Now we stop.
841
00:53:42,140 --> 00:53:47,640
So Rob, what's going on? Well, we pulled
it and we pulled it the wrong way. We
842
00:53:47,640 --> 00:53:48,618
got straight in it.
843
00:53:48,620 --> 00:53:50,120
I say we, I'm doing very little.
844
00:53:50,920 --> 00:53:52,080
Now we go back this way.
845
00:53:53,880 --> 00:53:54,880
It's gone out of control.
846
00:53:55,540 --> 00:53:56,540
It's out of control.
847
00:54:11,310 --> 00:54:12,390
We're done, we're done, we're done.
848
00:54:16,410 --> 00:54:19,770
I'm officially announcing my retirement
from the boat pulling industry.
849
00:54:20,350 --> 00:54:24,250
What happened then? Because one second
you're like just pulling, it's like
850
00:54:24,250 --> 00:54:27,310
really hard. Everybody goes pull and
then it just starts moving so quick.
851
00:54:28,750 --> 00:54:32,590
I'm just going to get crushed between
these two boats. So that was fun, I
852
00:54:32,590 --> 00:54:34,890
survived. I really hope they get it
launched.
853
00:54:35,250 --> 00:54:38,390
But I'm declaring my involvement over.
So all good.
854
00:54:46,970 --> 00:54:49,350
The entire week, Bic has been absolutely
incredible.
855
00:54:49,730 --> 00:54:55,030
He is such a staunch advocate of
Madagascar as a place and of the people.
856
00:54:56,470 --> 00:55:00,930
Today, to be honest with you, I've
really seen what Bic is about. You know,
857
00:55:00,930 --> 00:55:03,270
tribe are all about the water.
858
00:55:04,070 --> 00:55:07,930
But he is properly of the sea. I mean,
it genuinely feels like you're knocking
859
00:55:07,930 --> 00:55:08,930
about with Aquaman.
860
00:55:09,030 --> 00:55:10,030
It honestly does.
861
00:55:11,060 --> 00:55:16,300
Coming to Madagascar has been a proper
misadventure in every sense of the word.
862
00:55:16,360 --> 00:55:19,780
It's a country that I didn't know
anything about, I had no preconceptions
863
00:55:19,860 --> 00:55:24,060
apart from the animated films, two of
which weren't set in Madagascar at all.
864
00:55:24,460 --> 00:55:26,360
But it has been a proper adventure.
865
00:55:26,620 --> 00:55:32,740
I mean, you really do feel like you are
in a country that is just its own kind
866
00:55:32,740 --> 00:55:37,200
of ecosystem in every single way. It's
got natural wildlife that only exists on
867
00:55:37,200 --> 00:55:38,540
this island. It's got cultural...
868
00:55:39,799 --> 00:55:43,020
that only exist on this island. It's an
amazing place.
869
00:55:43,760 --> 00:55:47,500
If you're looking for something that
really feels like you are going on an
870
00:55:47,500 --> 00:55:49,060
adventure, Madagascar has got it.
871
00:55:50,140 --> 00:55:54,980
When we finished the Rwanda trip, I said
that that was kind of like entry -level
872
00:55:54,980 --> 00:55:59,520
Africa. If you were nervous about or
unsure about going to a place like that,
873
00:55:59,640 --> 00:56:01,400
Rwanda was the place to go.
874
00:56:02,520 --> 00:56:06,060
Madagascar is the place to come when
you've really got a taste for it.
875
00:56:06,440 --> 00:56:08,580
The more kind of hardened traveller, I
think.
876
00:56:08,970 --> 00:56:10,270
It's like Rwanda's the gateway.
877
00:56:11,970 --> 00:56:15,210
Madagascar's like when you say, I fancy
something a bit stronger.
878
00:56:16,050 --> 00:56:19,110
The roads are difficult. You'll see a
lot of poverty. People are struggling
879
00:56:19,110 --> 00:56:20,110
here.
880
00:56:20,290 --> 00:56:21,730
You'll be asked for money a lot.
881
00:56:24,190 --> 00:56:29,070
But I think it's as remarkable as Rwanda
and Uganda for completely different
882
00:56:29,070 --> 00:56:30,990
reasons. It's an incredible place.
883
00:56:32,910 --> 00:56:36,570
We've been on the road doing three
countries in succession.
884
00:56:38,359 --> 00:56:41,780
And to be honest with you, it felt like
a once -in -a -lifetime trip.
885
00:56:42,020 --> 00:56:44,660
I feel like being out here for the
amount of time that we have done has
886
00:56:44,660 --> 00:56:45,660
feel properly immersive.
887
00:56:46,220 --> 00:56:49,460
Every single day has been an amazing
experience.
888
00:56:49,800 --> 00:56:55,540
I've seen elephants, seen lions, gone
whitewater rafting, hung out with
889
00:56:55,540 --> 00:57:02,320
gorillas, saw some incredible
waterfalls, been on rock formations
890
00:57:02,320 --> 00:57:04,120
that don't exist anywhere else in the
world.
891
00:57:04,580 --> 00:57:06,360
I mean, it has genuinely been.
892
00:57:07,359 --> 00:57:11,680
day after day, a series of unbelievable
experiences, and I feel very lucky to
893
00:57:11,680 --> 00:57:12,680
have taken part in it.
894
00:57:13,160 --> 00:57:17,000
You know, some people get the travel bug
when they go travelling in a gap year.
895
00:57:17,180 --> 00:57:20,720
Some people go to a country they weren't
expecting to go to just for a roll of
896
00:57:20,720 --> 00:57:25,220
the dice, and they get the travel bug
that way. I got the travel bug by doing
897
00:57:25,220 --> 00:57:26,580
series of travel shows on the BBC.
898
00:57:27,240 --> 00:57:29,820
And, you know, we all have our roots,
and this has been mine.
899
00:57:30,800 --> 00:57:32,080
So where are you going next year?
900
00:57:35,540 --> 00:57:36,540
Disney World.
901
00:57:38,350 --> 00:57:39,490
Oh, I've got kids, haven't I?
902
00:57:44,150 --> 00:57:47,850
You can watch all of his misadventures
on BBC iPlayer.
903
00:57:48,070 --> 00:57:51,950
While telling the story of America's so
-called miracle painkiller, Michael
904
00:57:51,950 --> 00:57:54,850
Keaton stars in Dope Sick, press red for
iPlayer.
905
00:57:55,230 --> 00:57:57,990
Next year, I know what you're thinking.
What's going to happen in the final
906
00:57:57,990 --> 00:58:01,930
episode of Inside Number Nine? Well, I
would tell you, but I've signed this.
907
00:58:07,390 --> 00:58:08,390
Bye now.
70797
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