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Here we go, this is the last lesson
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of this first theoretical part of the course.
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I would say the course is only going
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to get better and more fun after this
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lesson, and I know this theoretical talk can
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sometimes suck the souls out of people, but
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as I said in the very beginning, my
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goal with this course is to get you
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100% ready to confidently implement every technique
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I'll be sharing in later lessons.
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And we can do that only by closing
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all the knowledge gaps, and that is not
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easy work.
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So, bravo for pushing through, great things are
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ahead.
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In this last theoretical lesson I would like
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to touch on the topic of light modifiers
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for the flash and I would like to
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talk about the bounce flash technique.
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Although light modifiers can be incredible tools that
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can transform the look of our photographs completely,
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in our own wedding work we don't normally
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use any softboxes, umbrellas or any other studio
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diffusers really.
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We have two reasons for this, first one
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is that it becomes very frustrating to carry
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all this bulky gear around the wedding, and
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secondly, in my opinion, showing up with these
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softboxes, umbrellas and light stands, it just draws
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too much attention.
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Sharon and I like to appear minimal and
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effortless at every wedding, with the smallest gear
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kit possible, so that the focus stays on
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the couple and the design of the wedding,
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rather than on us and on our gear.
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That's why the only light modifiers you might
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see us using at a wedding are these
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two, the dome diffuser and the wide angle
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adapter for the flash.
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Both of these diffusers help spread the light
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from the flash a bit wider and more
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evenly on the subject.
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The difference they make is very subtle, but
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it's the details that make a good photograph
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become great.
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Dome diffuser evens out the light from the
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flash and mainly helps to avoid those hot
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spots on foreheads of our subjects, and it's
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also supposed to spread the light a bit
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wider, but it's not really the best tool
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if you want to achieve a wider spread.
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If you want a wide spread of light,
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let's say for a big group photo, then
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this little guy can help you do that.
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It basically adds a few more degrees to
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your widest zoom setting on the flash.
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Do you remember the zoom setting on the
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flash?
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Yeah, so it makes, let's say, 28 millimeter
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zoom become more like 24.
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Again, it's a subtle difference, but it's not
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insignificant.
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Just note that both of these diffusers, like
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any other diffuser, will take away a bit
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of the power output of your flash.
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So if you need a full power from
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your flash in, let's say, direct sunlight, make
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sure to take these off.
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Some other modifiers that I always bring with
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me are a couple of CT gels, but
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honestly, I don't really remember when was the
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last time I actually used them.
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CT gels can change the warmth of the
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light we get out of our flash from
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the original 5600 kelvins to, let's say, 3200
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kelvins, and this can be very useful if
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you want to match the light from the
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flash with ambient light.
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For example, flashlight is made to match the
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5600 kelvin daylight, and candle light is warmer
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than that, around 3200 kelvins.
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So if we want to make our white
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balance match the candles, the light from our
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flash will then appear cool blue.
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So by simply putting one of those on
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our flash, we will make our flashlight also
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warmer, and it will match the desired white
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balance of the candles.
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And this color matching can especially be useful
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when we use the bounce flash technique.
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So let's talk about the bounce flash technique.
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If you're looking to achieve a soft light
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look with the flash, and you're like us,
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and you don't want to carry a ton
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of gear around the wedding day, you can
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do it by simply bouncing the light from
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the flash off the wall or the ceiling.
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This is a very common technique, but I
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still see so many photographers doing it in
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a way that just doesn't look very good.
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Well, actually, that doesn't make people in photographs
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look their best.
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I personally don't use this technique that often,
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but it does come in handy sometimes, so
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I wanted to do a little exercise that
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might be useful if you decide to try
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it out.
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Before anything else, when bouncing the flash, make
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sure that the wall or the ceiling you're
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bouncing it off is white, or at least
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close to white.
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Otherwise, our whole photograph could get a color
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cast from the color of the wall.
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Next, I never bounce the flash directly off
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the ceiling, because this will create a very
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unappealing top down light.
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I don't really think anyone likes having these
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huge raccoon shadows around their eyes topped with
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a little hot spot on their forehead, and
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that's exactly what happens when we make the
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light come directly from above of our subjects.
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We point the flash directly to the ceiling.
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So instead, try bouncing the flash off a
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side wall, so that the light comes in
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sideways, making it look way more natural and
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visually appealing, and if the only ceiling, there's
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only ceiling that is white and no walls
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are in color, well then try maybe bouncing
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the flash at a 45 degree angle and
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pointing behind the camera.
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This way, the light will come from behind
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us and from the front of our subjects,
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rather than directly from above them.
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This will illuminate them with the light that
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looks at least a bit better than if
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it was the top down ceiling light.
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When I'm bouncing the flash, I normally set
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it on manual setting, as I want it
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to stay more or less consistent in power,
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and I don't want any surprises from the
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TTL.
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Also, I would just put the flash sometimes
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in one place, where it would give me
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a nice spread of light, and then I
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would move around the room with my camera.
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As with any other flash technique, I would
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first expose for the ambient light, and then
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I would add just enough of the flash
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in order to make the whole scene look
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natural and not too obviously lit with the
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flash.
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Another setting that is also super useful when
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bouncing the flash, is the flash's zoom setting.
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It can help you direct the light to
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bounce it exactly in a way you want
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it.
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So, if you zoom it more, for example,
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you will limit the spread of the light
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to a smaller portion of the wall, or
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part of the wall, and if you set
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it wide, it will spread around the entire
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room, giving you this super soft, even light
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throughout the picture.
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The bounce flash technique is quite easy, and
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it's a quick way to mimic natural, or
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better said, available light with flash.
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And also, it can make a quick fix
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to many mixed white balance situations.
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So, if you bounce the flash off a
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white wall, just like I showed you in
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the previous example, but set its strength higher,
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in order to overpower the rest of the
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lights in the room, it will give you
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a more or less natural looking light, and
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it will even out the entire white balance
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in the room, because it will be stronger
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than the rest of these lights that make
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this mixed white balance.
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There are a million different ways to play
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with bounce flash, but the main thing I
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would like to point out, is that when
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I use this technique, I do it in
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order to make my photos look like they
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were lit with natural light, and this leads
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me to the part that I promised to
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cover in the previous lesson, about those lens
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choice exceptions, and the instances I would rather
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use an open aperture and 50mm lens with
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flash, instead of closed aperture and 28mm lens
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that I normally use.
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Well, this is it.
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If I bounce the flash in order to
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mimic natural or available light, then I would
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also treat it as natural light with my
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lens and aperture choice.
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So, that's when I would choose longer focal
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lengths and an open aperture, so that these
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photos look and match many others that I
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would take throughout the day with natural light.
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I hope now it all makes sense.
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With this, I would wrap the talk about
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the bounce flash, so that we don't get
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too far from the main topic of the
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course, and that is how to achieve that
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beautiful, glamorous, fashion-forward look that Sharon and
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I create for our clients using flash.
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And that, my friends, comes in the next
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lesson.
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Are you excited?
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See you there!
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