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Lastly, we come to setting the ISO on
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our camera.
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I normally set my ISO last, after I
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decide on the aperture and the shutter speed
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I want to have.
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It basically gives me that fine-tuning option
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to expose more accurately, or to make it
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possible for me to shoot at closed apertures
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while I'm in the dark.
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It also works well when I want to
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pull out more of the ambience, but I
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don't want to set my shutter speed too
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slow.
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Just keep in mind that with ISO, like
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the aperture, you will affect both the exposure
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of the ambience and the part of the
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frame lit with flash, or your subject.
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So if you tune it up, you might
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need to go back and fine-tune the
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strength of the flash again, so that your
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subject is not blown out or too dark.
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As with the rest, I keep my ISO
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very simple and often I have it set
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by default at 400, so that I can,
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just by pulling it up or down by
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a stop or two, fine-tune my overall
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exposure of the photograph.
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This works well, as at 400 I have
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enough space to move up, and also I
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have enough space to move down.
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So if I'm in low-light situation, I
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can crank it up quickly to even 1600,
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or in direct sunlight I can pull it
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down to my lowest ISO setting.
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Just keep in mind that, as a rule
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of thumb, if you push the ISO higher,
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you will probably need to decrease the power
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of your flash, and vice versa, if you
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pull your ISO lower, you might need to
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increase the power of your flash to keep
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the right exposure on your subject.
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And that's it, really.
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I mean, ISO is really that little quick
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fix at the end of our setup, and
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it's the same with this lesson.
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It's quick and easy.
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In the next lesson, I will be talking
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about why I chose the lens I chose
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for flash photography, and maybe I will help
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you decide which lens to choose for your
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kind of work.
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See you in the next lesson.
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