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00:00:06,700 --> 00:00:10,700
Vitajte v Alp�ch.
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00:00:11,050 --> 00:00:13,500
Tento film V�m prin�a Holcim,
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svetov� l�der v oblasti stavebn�ch materi�lov.
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00:00:19,010 --> 00:00:21,180
M�me korene tu vo �vaj�iarsku,
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00:00:21,390 --> 00:00:25,650
kde �udia pracovali
s v�zvami pr�rody po cel� st�ro�ia.
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00:00:27,440 --> 00:00:29,270
Staviame pre bud�cnos�,
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00:00:29,480 --> 00:00:32,030
tak aby si aj bud�ce gener�cie
mohli u��va� �ivot
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00:00:32,240 --> 00:00:35,530
v n�dhernom prostred�,
ako s� Alpy.
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00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:49,170
Pon�kame v�m
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00:00:49,380 --> 00:00:54,050
tento skuto�n� �ivotn� pr�beh
sily, v�konu a v�ne.
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00:01:40,470 --> 00:01:44,310
Po mnoho storo��
boli Alpy neprekonate�n�,
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00:01:44,520 --> 00:01:48,600
pr�li� vysok�, pr�li� drsn�
a pr�li� strm�, aby sa dali prejs�.
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00:01:49,980 --> 00:01:52,480
�asom �udia svojou
vynaliezavos�ou a odvahou
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00:01:52,690 --> 00:01:55,780
prekonali t�to ve�k� pr�rodn� prek�ku.
14
00:01:58,780 --> 00:02:02,030
Horolezcov st�le pri�ahuj�
tieto rozoklan� vrcholky.
15
00:02:02,240 --> 00:02:06,500
�iaden v�ak nie je zradnej��,
ako severn� stena hory Eiger.
16
00:02:14,050 --> 00:02:15,960
Eiger v�razne pozna�il
17
00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:20,010
�ivot autora a horolezca,
Johna Harlina.
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00:02:20,220 --> 00:02:23,430
Spolu s man�elkou Adele
a dc�rou Sienou
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00:02:23,640 --> 00:02:28,640
sa John Harlin vracia do krajiny
v ktorej vyrastal, �vaj�iarska.
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00:02:38,400 --> 00:02:43,990
U� ako chlapec som mal r�d tieto �h�adn�
pol��ka, vyh�ben� do svahu ro�n�kmi.
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00:02:46,370 --> 00:02:48,040
Veci sa za posledn�ch
40 rokov zmenili,
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00:02:48,250 --> 00:02:52,330
ale �cta k pr�rode
tu st�le pretrv�va.
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00:02:53,250 --> 00:02:54,750
Hlavn�m cie�om mojej cesty
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00:02:55,050 --> 00:02:59,470
je odovzda� duch re�pektu
dc�re Siene.
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00:03:00,130 --> 00:03:01,300
Kde je �vaj�iarsko?
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00:03:01,510 --> 00:03:05,060
�vaj�iarsko je t�to oblas� tu.
Le�� rovno v srdci �lp.
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00:03:05,260 --> 00:03:07,180
Priamo v centre Eur�py.
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Ak� dlh� s� Alpy?
29
00:03:16,360 --> 00:03:18,240
No, maj� asi 1200 km,
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00:03:18,440 --> 00:03:23,240
tiahnu sa vo ve�kom obl�ku
z juhu Franc�zska a� do Slovinska.
31
00:03:25,200 --> 00:03:27,740
Eur�pa le�� medzi Afrikou a �ziou.
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00:03:28,040 --> 00:03:31,210
Ale kontinenty
nevyzerali v�dy takto.
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00:03:33,000 --> 00:03:37,460
Cestou sp� v �ase, neust�le
sa pohybuj�ce dosky zemsk�ho povrchu
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00:03:37,670 --> 00:03:40,220
tla�ili Africk� kontinent
postupne na sever,
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00:03:40,420 --> 00:03:43,090
a� narazil na Eur�pu.
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00:03:47,140 --> 00:03:48,390
Zemsk� k�ra sa prelomila
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00:03:48,600 --> 00:03:52,350
a vytla�ila dno oce�nu
do v��ky takmer 5 kilometrov,
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00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:56,560
pri�om sa hrub� vrstvy horniny
poskladali ako harmonika.
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00:04:03,240 --> 00:04:05,280
M�m Alpy ve�mi r�d.
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00:04:05,530 --> 00:04:11,250
Je to balzam na du�u i na srdce
by� v tomto prostred�.
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00:05:48,680 --> 00:06:00,150
HOROLEZECK� SEN �IVOTA
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Alpy s� jedine�n�.
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00:06:09,780 --> 00:06:14,740
�ije tu takmer 20 mili�nov �ud�
v tesnej harm�nii s pr�rodou.
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00:06:18,540 --> 00:06:24,480
Nach�dzaj� sa tu dediny, drobn� dedinky
na t�ch najnepravdepodobnej��ch miestach.
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00:06:24,630 --> 00:06:27,170
Je ��asn� u� len tu by�,
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nieto e�te �i� v dedinke
niekde vysoko na �bo��.
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00:06:32,350 --> 00:06:34,930
Dod�va mi to hrejiv� pocit
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00:06:35,140 --> 00:06:38,640
by� v kult�re,
skuto�nej horskej kult�re.
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00:06:40,440 --> 00:06:43,980
Ako redaktor magaz�nu
American Alpine Journal,
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00:06:44,190 --> 00:06:47,240
r�d p�em i leziem.
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00:06:47,440 --> 00:06:52,400
Doteraz som liezol na �tyroch kontinentoch
a absolvoval ve�a nov�ch tr�s.
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00:06:54,530 --> 00:07:00,330
Ke� som mal 9 rokov, �ili sme vo �vaj�iarskej
dedine Leysin nad �enevsk�m jazerom.
53
00:07:01,540 --> 00:07:05,550
Spolo�ne s otcom sme radi
ly�ovali a robili turistiku.
54
00:07:06,300 --> 00:07:08,210
Mal v�niv� vz�ah k hor�m
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00:07:08,420 --> 00:07:11,260
a definit�vne ho preniesol na m�a.
56
00:07:13,390 --> 00:07:16,510
Na �as str�ven� spolu s n�m
m�m ve�mi pekn� spomienky
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00:07:16,720 --> 00:07:19,020
Bol moj�m hrdinom.
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00:07:20,730 --> 00:07:22,720
Ke� som v�ak mal 9 rokov,
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00:07:22,730 --> 00:07:27,030
otcova posadnutos� Eigerom
nav�dy zmenila na�e �ivoty.
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00:07:27,570 --> 00:07:30,400
Eiger je najnebezpe�nej�ou
horou Eur�py
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00:07:30,610 --> 00:07:35,240
a otec sa rozhodol pre v�stup
naj�a��ou cestou, ak� kedy kto vysk��al.
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00:07:35,450 --> 00:07:37,490
M�j �ivot u� nikdy nebol ako predt�m.
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00:07:37,700 --> 00:07:42,040
Severn� stena Eigeru
si doteraz vy�iadala 27 obet�.
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00:07:43,460 --> 00:07:46,130
Zosnul�mu americk�mu horolezcovi
Johnovi Harlinovi
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00:07:46,340 --> 00:07:48,510
usporiadali sl�vnostn� pohreb
v dedine Leysin.
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00:07:48,710 --> 00:07:52,340
Teraz sm�ti jeho man�elka,
matka a dve deti.
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00:07:53,180 --> 00:07:56,260
Mal som 9 rokov, ke� sa to stalo.
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00:07:58,680 --> 00:08:00,430
Jasne sa na to pam�t�m.
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00:08:00,640 --> 00:08:05,560
Mama pri�la s pla�om do izby a povedala n�m.
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00:08:05,770 --> 00:08:09,980
St�le tomu nem��em uveri�.
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00:08:21,330 --> 00:08:25,460
Je to u� 40 rokov, �o otec zomrel.
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00:08:25,710 --> 00:08:30,130
Odvtedy c�tim, �e m�m s Eigerom
nevybaven� ��ty.
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00:08:31,380 --> 00:08:35,390
Teraz pri�iel �as prekona� strach
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00:08:35,590 --> 00:08:38,510
a vzda� otcovi �es�.
75
00:08:40,180 --> 00:08:41,930
Predt�m, ne� opust� �vaj�iarsko,
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00:08:42,140 --> 00:08:45,900
John d�fa, �e sa mu kone�ne podar�
zdola� severn� stenu Eigeru
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00:08:46,100 --> 00:08:49,110
a vyslobodi� sa tak z jeho tie�a.
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00:08:49,730 --> 00:08:52,440
S��bil som Adele, �e sa nebudem
pok��a� vyliez� na Eiger
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00:08:52,650 --> 00:08:57,280
bez podpory t�ch najlep��ch horolezcov,
Roberta a Daniely Jasperov�ch.
80
00:08:57,490 --> 00:09:02,450
Robert u� zdolal severn�
stenu Eigeru ve�akr�t.
81
00:09:03,660 --> 00:09:08,210
Jeho man�elka Daniela je
tie� vynikaj�ci horolezec.
82
00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:15,300
John sa ma p�tal, kde by sme mohli urobi�
nejak� spolo�n� tr�ningov� v�stup.
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00:09:15,510 --> 00:09:18,550
Povedala som mu,
a �o takto hne� tu za chrbtom?
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00:09:20,010 --> 00:09:25,390
Jasperovci a ja sa potrebujeme
vz�jomne zohra� ako t�m.
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00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:30,320
Nielen mne, ale aj im
ve�mi z�le�� na bezpe�nosti.
86
00:10:02,680 --> 00:10:05,560
Ke� spolo�ne polezieme na Eiger
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00:10:05,770 --> 00:10:10,770
mus�me ma� 100% istotu, �e sa m��eme
navz�jom na seba spo�ahn��.
88
00:10:32,710 --> 00:10:36,300
V lete je v�stup na Eiger pr�li� riskantn�.
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00:10:37,170 --> 00:10:38,930
K�m pr�de chladnej�ie po�asie,
90
00:10:39,130 --> 00:10:43,680
chcem Siene uk�za� viacero vec�,
ktor� m�m na �vaj�iarsku r�d.
91
00:10:51,480 --> 00:10:55,650
Horsk� priesmyky kedysi b�vali
po v��inu roka nepriechodn�.
92
00:10:56,690 --> 00:10:59,780
Alpy sp�sobili,
�e taliansky regi�n vo �vaj�iarsku
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00:11:00,070 --> 00:11:03,530
sa vyv�jal oddelene
od franc�zskej a nemeckej �asti.
94
00:11:05,660 --> 00:11:09,210
Sme v juhov�chodnom c�pe �vaj�iarska,
v regi�ne Ticino,
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00:11:09,410 --> 00:11:11,540
kde �udia hovoria po taliansky.
96
00:11:16,130 --> 00:11:20,760
Priehradn� m�r vodnej n�dr�e Verzasca
v Ticine je 200 metrov vysok�.
97
00:11:21,050 --> 00:11:24,430
Ak by ste polo�ili 9
tak�chto m�rov na seba,
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00:11:24,640 --> 00:11:28,180
dosiahli by v��ku
severnej steny Eigeru.
99
00:11:30,310 --> 00:11:31,730
U� ke� som si ho brala,
vedela som,
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00:11:32,020 --> 00:11:37,400
�e sa neboj� �i� �ivot
na hrane. Proste je tak�.
101
00:11:40,030 --> 00:11:43,530
Tak fajn. A nezabudni si to u�i�,
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00:11:43,740 --> 00:11:47,410
preto�e je to mo�no naposledy,
�o m� t� �ancu.
103
00:12:36,250 --> 00:12:41,340
Obrovsk� pr�val �ud� do �lp
priniesol nov� ot�zky.
104
00:12:41,670 --> 00:12:46,140
Ako ob�va� tieto hory sp�sobom,
ktor� ochr�ni ich bud�cnos�?
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00:12:46,340 --> 00:12:49,220
Toto je najzn�mej�� prechod cez Alpy ...
106
00:12:49,430 --> 00:12:54,270
Stretol som sa s profesorom Brunom Messerlim
pre jeho �iv� poh�ad na Alpy.
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00:12:59,190 --> 00:13:00,320
Bruno Messerli �tuduje
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00:13:00,530 --> 00:13:04,490
ako sa navz�jom
s t�mito horami ovplyv�ujeme.
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00:13:04,740 --> 00:13:06,740
Pre spojenie s okolit�m svetom
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00:13:07,030 --> 00:13:11,040
sa cez mas�vne hory vybudovali tunely,
�dolia sa premostili
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00:13:11,240 --> 00:13:13,660
a do mohutn�ch �bo��
sa vysekali cesty.
112
00:13:15,420 --> 00:13:17,290
�vaj�iarsko sa zd� na mape mal�
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00:13:17,500 --> 00:13:20,750
ale hory mu dod�vaj�
ve�k� vertik�lny rozmer.
114
00:13:21,050 --> 00:13:23,970
Dob�vanie �lp za�alo
pred nieko�k�mi tis�cmi rokov.
115
00:13:24,170 --> 00:13:29,050
�udia, ktor� sem pri�li, sa museli
tejto fantastickej krajine prisp�sobi�.
116
00:13:29,260 --> 00:13:31,670
Tak�e t� ist� ro�n�ci obr�bali
pol��ka dolu v �dol�
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00:13:31,680 --> 00:13:32,890
i hore na �bo�iach?
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00:13:33,060 --> 00:13:35,100
�no. Nebolo to �ahk�,
ale pozrite,
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00:13:35,310 --> 00:13:41,900
tu vid�te doln� �as� �dolia.
Mohli ora�, mali ja�me�,
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00:13:42,110 --> 00:13:43,740
mali kravy, dobytok.
121
00:13:44,030 --> 00:13:47,910
Potom nasleduj� strm� svahy.
Nad nimi mus� by� les.
122
00:13:48,110 --> 00:13:52,910
Potom s� op� pastviny.
A potom za��na kamenist� �as�.
123
00:13:53,120 --> 00:13:55,160
Nad �ou je z�na snehu a �adu.
124
00:13:55,370 --> 00:14:00,330
Je skvel� ma� vo vertik�lnej �trukt�re
v�etky tieto r�zne p�sma.
125
00:14:17,100 --> 00:14:20,270
A ak� r�zne druhy horn�n
m��eme v Alp�ch n�js�?
126
00:14:20,480 --> 00:14:23,480
Je tu v�penec, ktor� je sedimentom.
127
00:14:23,690 --> 00:14:27,570
Taktie� je tu nieko�ko druhov
kry�talick�ch horn�n, vr�tane �uly.
128
00:14:27,780 --> 00:14:30,320
A ako s� Alpy vysok�?
129
00:14:30,530 --> 00:14:34,580
No, dosahuj� 4500 metrov, niekedy i viac.
130
00:14:39,330 --> 00:14:42,710
Tektonick� pohyby
st�le tla�ia Alpy vy��ie,
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00:14:43,040 --> 00:14:47,170
ale z�rove� ich in� sily b�raj�.
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00:14:48,510 --> 00:14:53,430
Pri tom, ako skaly zam�zaj�
a rozm�zaj�, praskaj�.
133
00:14:53,640 --> 00:14:57,140
Zemsk� pr�a�livos� a er�zia
sa postaraj� o zvy�ok.
134
00:15:13,320 --> 00:15:16,910
Mnoh� zo sk�l, ktor� sa uvo�nia
z vrcholkov, s� odvezen�
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00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:20,580
do �dolia
ve�k�mi alpsk�mi �adovcami.
136
00:15:25,460 --> 00:15:29,380
Dnes, ako sa Zem otep�uje,
�adovce sa topia r�chlej�ie,
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00:15:29,590 --> 00:15:32,640
ako sa st�haj� dop��a�.
138
00:15:34,140 --> 00:15:38,180
T�mto tempom sa do konca
tohto storo�ia zmen�ia
139
00:15:38,390 --> 00:15:42,190
aj tie najv��ie alpsk� �adovce
na mal� fragmenty.
140
00:15:43,310 --> 00:15:44,480
Pri ceste domov
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00:15:44,690 --> 00:15:47,900
mi profesor Messerli
uk�zal Aletschgletscher,
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00:15:48,110 --> 00:15:50,740
ktor� od roku 1850
ust�pil viac ne� 3 km.
143
00:15:51,030 --> 00:15:53,240
Je to najdlh�� �adovec v Alp�ch
144
00:15:53,450 --> 00:15:57,540
a to nielen vo �vaj�iarsku. Je dlh��
ako v�etky �adovce v okol� Mount Everestu.
145
00:15:57,740 --> 00:16:00,330
- To v�ne?
- M� 23 kilometrov.
146
00:16:00,540 --> 00:16:03,370
Ak sa sem �adovec zosunul
pred 150 rokmi
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00:16:03,580 --> 00:16:07,000
a teraz je tu hore,
top� sa r�chlej�ie, ne� predt�m?
148
00:16:07,210 --> 00:16:10,010
�no, ob�vame sa o�ho.
149
00:16:21,310 --> 00:16:24,690
�adovce v�dy prech�dzali cyklami.
150
00:16:24,980 --> 00:16:29,400
Zaka�d�m, ke� sa �adovce pohli,
pom�hali pretvori� Alpy.
151
00:16:34,780 --> 00:16:39,990
Doba �adov� zanechala
stopu po cel�ch Alp�ch.
152
00:16:40,410 --> 00:16:44,080
Hoci sa �adovce vrcholu
tohto hrebe�a nikdy nedotkli,
153
00:16:44,290 --> 00:16:48,500
vyformovali jeho z�klad z bo�n�ch str�n.
154
00:16:48,710 --> 00:16:51,210
P�soben�m gravit�cie a er�zie
155
00:16:51,420 --> 00:16:56,640
sa z neho ulomilo mno�stvo sk�l
a� zostal iba tak�to ostr� hrebe�.
156
00:17:00,180 --> 00:17:02,980
�adovce m��u strhn��
z�klad hory,
157
00:17:03,180 --> 00:17:06,770
��m vznikne tak�to �picat� vrchol,
takzvan� "roh" (nemecky "horn").
158
00:17:07,060 --> 00:17:10,400
Najzn�mej��m pr�kladom
je Matterhorn.
159
00:17:15,450 --> 00:17:19,580
Pred mili�nom rokov to bola �irok� hora.
160
00:17:20,620 --> 00:17:25,080
Ale po�as doby �adovej, zaka�d�m,
ke� sa �adovce pos�vali,
161
00:17:25,290 --> 00:17:29,040
obrusovali horu zo v�etk�ch str�n
162
00:17:29,250 --> 00:17:33,010
a postupne oslabovali jej z�klad�u.
163
00:17:35,010 --> 00:17:38,430
Po ka�dom ustupuj�com �adovci
zost�vali svahy strm�ie
164
00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:44,310
a mohutn� kusy nespevnen�ch sk�l
sa r�cali dole vlastnou v�hou.
165
00:17:46,480 --> 00:17:50,190
V priebehu doby �adovej
sa cyklus opakoval,
166
00:17:50,400 --> 00:17:55,610
a to �o napokon zostalo,
bola ostr�, t��iaci sa skaln� roh.
167
00:18:11,340 --> 00:18:16,090
S nadmorskou v��kou 4478 metrov
sa t�to dramatick� ikona
168
00:18:16,300 --> 00:18:20,260
t��i na hranici medzi
Talianskom a �vaj�iarskom.
169
00:18:20,470 --> 00:18:24,060
Otec mi ve�akr�t s�uboval,
�e spolu p�jdeme na Matterhorn.
170
00:18:24,270 --> 00:18:26,350
Nedostali sme �ancu.
171
00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:28,190
Ale ja som na� vyliezol dvakr�t.
172
00:18:28,390 --> 00:18:30,060
Tak�e odtia�to Whymper vyr�al?
173
00:18:30,270 --> 00:18:36,440
Edwardovi Whymperovi sa v roku 1865 podaril
1. �spe�n� v�stup na Matterhorn z dediny Zermatt.
174
00:18:36,650 --> 00:18:39,990
... z druhej strany i�li hore Taliani
a tak musel s nimi z�vodi�.
175
00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:45,040
Tak�e tu za��nal svoju �spe�n� v�pravu.
176
00:18:50,290 --> 00:18:55,090
Matterhorn bol dovtedy poslednou
nezdolanou alpskou �tvortis�covkou.
177
00:19:11,480 --> 00:19:14,440
Prv� pokusy boli uskuto�nen�
z talianskej strany,
178
00:19:14,650 --> 00:19:16,780
preto�e z dia�ky
sa zdala by� schodnej�ia.
179
00:19:17,070 --> 00:19:25,280
V skuto�nosti je v�ak v�stup ove�a �ah��
a technicky menej n�ro�n� zo �vaj�iarskej strany.
180
00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:36,710
Whymper a jeho t�m boli prv�,
kto st�li na jeho vrchole.
181
00:19:46,180 --> 00:19:49,100
Ale po�as zostupu sa im roztrhlo lano.
182
00:19:49,310 --> 00:19:53,190
Pre�il iba Whymper
a dvaja jeho spolo�n�ci.
183
00:19:56,190 --> 00:19:59,240
Ka�d� zimu pod Matterhorn
prich�dzaj� tis�ce �ud�
184
00:19:59,440 --> 00:20:02,410
z jedn�ho d�vodu - pre sneh.
185
00:20:05,530 --> 00:20:09,500
�tudujem sneh v snahe
pochopi� z�kladn� procesy
186
00:20:09,700 --> 00:20:12,960
ved�ce k vzniku ve�k�ch lav�n.
187
00:20:13,170 --> 00:20:14,710
Moja kamar�tka
Chris Pielmeierov�
188
00:20:15,040 --> 00:20:18,420
je pracovn��ka �vaj�iarskeho
in�tit�tu pre v�skum lav�n.
189
00:20:24,220 --> 00:20:26,470
Nielen ly�iari s� v ohrozen�.
190
00:20:26,680 --> 00:20:32,020
Po�as jednej z posledn�ch z�m lav�ny
v Alp�ch zabili 42 �ud� priamo v dedin�ch.
191
00:20:41,190 --> 00:20:45,280
Presmerovan�m toku vetra
tieto mal� a inova�n� �trukt�ry
192
00:20:45,490 --> 00:20:48,080
br�nia z�vejom pr�li� sa nahromadi�.
193
00:20:49,370 --> 00:20:53,210
Ak sa u� raz ve�k� lav�na spust�,
nie je mo�n� ju zastavi�.
194
00:20:53,410 --> 00:20:57,420
Prvorad� je prevencia
pred jej spusten�m.
195
00:21:06,720 --> 00:21:10,140
Snehov� pokr�vka sa sklad� z mnoh�ch
vrstiev, ktor� dr�ia pohromade mili�ny
196
00:21:10,350 --> 00:21:13,310
drobn�ch v�zieb
medzi snehov�mi kry�t�lmi.
197
00:21:14,060 --> 00:21:16,350
Meran�m hustoty ka�dej vrstvy
198
00:21:16,560 --> 00:21:20,020
m��e Chris testova� stabilitu
snehovej pokr�vky.
199
00:21:20,230 --> 00:21:23,030
Kry�t�ly sa neust�le menia, tak�e
200
00:21:23,240 --> 00:21:29,370
vrstva, ktor� bola stabiln� sa �asom m��e sta�
ve�mi slab�, a slab� vrstva sa m��e sta� silnou.
201
00:21:29,580 --> 00:21:34,080
Tieto slab� spoje m��u nesk�r zlyha�
a spusti� lav�nu.
202
00:21:36,370 --> 00:21:39,340
Sp���ame lav�ny, aby sme z�skali inform�cie.
203
00:21:39,590 --> 00:21:43,010
V dr�he lav�ny m�me umiestnen� geof�ny.
204
00:21:43,210 --> 00:21:46,470
Meriame tlakov� silu, r�chlos�.
205
00:21:46,680 --> 00:21:50,300
Len tak zist�me, ak� m� silu,
206
00:21:50,510 --> 00:21:53,140
ke� ju m��eme zmera�.
207
00:22:33,640 --> 00:22:38,560
V roku 1966 sa tento osamel�
star� hotel na �p�t� Eigeru
208
00:22:38,770 --> 00:22:43,110
stal z�klad�ou pre otcov
fin�lny pokus o v�stup na vrchol.
209
00:22:44,110 --> 00:22:48,700
Jeden novin�r st�l tu na terase
a pozoroval ich cez �alekoh�ad.
210
00:22:48,900 --> 00:22:51,200
Videl otcov smrte�n� p�d.
211
00:22:53,660 --> 00:22:55,540
Teraz bude tento hotel
na��m domovom
212
00:22:55,740 --> 00:22:59,420
na t��de� alebo na mesiac -
- ko�ko bude potrebn�.
213
00:23:02,500 --> 00:23:05,630
Na Eigeri panuje najhor�ie
po�asie v Alp�ch.
214
00:23:12,010 --> 00:23:16,140
Severn� stena Eigeru je strm�,
vy�e 1600 metrov vysok� kolmica.
215
00:23:16,350 --> 00:23:20,480
Je to jedna z najvy���ch a najviac
zradn�ch skaln�ch stien v Eur�pe.
216
00:23:31,700 --> 00:23:35,530
Je obrovsk� a pln� �lomkov
rozpad�vaj�ceho sa v�penca,
217
00:23:35,530 --> 00:23:37,700
hotov� strelnica padaj�cich kame�ov.
218
00:23:37,750 --> 00:23:40,250
Aj zdanlivo mal� kamienok
v�s m��e zabi�.
219
00:23:42,710 --> 00:23:46,630
Ke� nasne��, zo steny v�s
m��e strhn�� lav�na.
220
00:23:48,420 --> 00:23:50,720
Napriek tomu m�me v pl�ne
liez�, ke� bude zima
221
00:23:51,010 --> 00:23:53,260
preto�e vtedy pad� menej sk�l.
222
00:23:53,470 --> 00:23:57,510
�ad a sneh uzamkn�
uvo�nen� skaly na mieste.
223
00:24:05,190 --> 00:24:10,610
Eiger je vysok� 3970 metrov.
224
00:24:11,490 --> 00:24:16,450
Otec bol v�bec prv� Ameri�an,
ktor� zdolal severn� stenu Eigeru.
225
00:24:19,290 --> 00:24:22,410
O �tyri roky nesk�r sa odhodlal
vyst�pi� na Eiger znova,
226
00:24:22,620 --> 00:24:27,110
tentokr�t po �plne novej trase,
ved�cej kolmo po stene.
227
00:24:51,280 --> 00:24:53,070
Ke� sa prihnala �al�ia sne�n� b�rka
228
00:24:53,280 --> 00:24:57,530
otec a jeho dvaja spolulezci
uviazli v polovici v�stupu
229
00:24:57,740 --> 00:25:00,410
na mieste nazvanom bivak smrti.
230
00:25:01,540 --> 00:25:05,420
Ich lan� trpeli opotrebovan�m.
231
00:25:05,750 --> 00:25:09,170
Takmer cel� dva t��dne
str�vili v sne�nej jaskyni.
232
00:25:17,010 --> 00:25:19,140
Ke� sa v�chrica kone�ne ut�ila,
233
00:25:19,350 --> 00:25:23,060
rozhodli sa podnikn��
fin�lny �tok na vrchol.
234
00:25:23,270 --> 00:25:30,770
Otec �plhal hore po lane. V�imli si
a vedeli, �e ich lan� s� rozstrapkan�,
235
00:25:31,070 --> 00:25:34,240
ale jeho kolega bol presved�en�,
�e lano vydr��.
236
00:26:03,180 --> 00:26:05,730
Otcovi spolulezci v�stup dokon�ili.
237
00:26:06,020 --> 00:26:09,610
Trasu na jeho po�es�
pomenovali Harlinovou cestou.
238
00:26:12,270 --> 00:26:15,740
Ja m�m v �mysle vr�ti� sa
z ka�d�ho v�stupu �iv�.
239
00:26:16,030 --> 00:26:18,410
Neexistuje vrchol,
ani v�stup,
240
00:26:18,610 --> 00:26:21,030
za ktor� by mi st�lo obetova� �ivot.
241
00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:25,620
John je z toho ve�mi nap�t�.
242
00:26:26,330 --> 00:26:28,500
Je to nebezpe�n� stena.
243
00:26:29,170 --> 00:26:31,340
Stoj� to za to riziko?
244
00:26:32,710 --> 00:26:38,260
Ve�mi mu z�le��,
aby jeho dc�ra vyrastala spolu s n�m.
245
00:26:44,060 --> 00:26:47,600
K���om k bezpe�nosti pri lezen�
je by� metodick�.
246
00:26:54,070 --> 00:26:57,740
C�tim, �e je tu nie�o,
�o John mus� urobi�.
247
00:26:58,700 --> 00:27:02,370
Ver�m, �e je to pre�ho nato�ko d�le�it�,
aby mu st�lo zato riskova�, �o m�.
248
00:27:02,570 --> 00:27:03,700
On dobre vie, �o m�,
249
00:27:03,990 --> 00:27:07,750
a do nie�oho tak�ho by sa nepustil,
keby nec�til, �e mus�.
250
00:27:10,420 --> 00:27:14,040
Bude musie� tvrdo bojova�
a vypudi� z hlavy v�etky zl� my�lienky,
251
00:27:14,040 --> 00:27:17,210
ktor� sa mu nepochybne
bud� vkr�da� do mysle.
252
00:27:18,510 --> 00:27:22,170
A tie� mysl�m, �e ke� dosiahne bod
kde sa jeho...
253
00:27:22,180 --> 00:27:23,600
kde sa jeho otec zr�til,
254
00:27:23,600 --> 00:27:27,520
tak to bude pre�ho ve�mi
emot�vny moment.
255
00:27:30,690 --> 00:27:31,730
Bu� opatrn�.
256
00:27:32,020 --> 00:27:34,110
Neboj. Budem.
257
00:27:34,310 --> 00:27:36,980
V�etko bude v pohode.
Po�kali sme si na ide�lne podmienky.
258
00:27:37,190 --> 00:27:38,740
Bude to fajn. Viem to. M�m �a rada.
259
00:27:39,030 --> 00:27:43,240
Ja teba tie�. Pa. Ahoj Siena.
260
00:27:56,000 --> 00:28:00,760
Na za�iatku st�pania som bol ako v tranze.
261
00:28:01,050 --> 00:28:06,930
Vst�pil som do sveta snov,
ktor� som to�k� roky sn�val,
262
00:28:07,140 --> 00:28:10,060
a zrazu to za��vam na vlastnej ko�i.
263
00:28:15,650 --> 00:28:18,780
�akal som 40 rokov,
k�m kone�ne vkro��m na Eiger,
264
00:28:19,070 --> 00:28:24,990
no po najbli��ie 3 dni
mus�m svoje em�cie dr�a� na uzde
265
00:28:25,200 --> 00:28:28,200
a prist�pi� k tomu
ako ku ka�d�mu in�mu v�stupu.
266
00:28:30,200 --> 00:28:33,750
Robert bol prv�m �lovekom,
ktor� mi povedal, �e Eiger
267
00:28:33,750 --> 00:28:35,750
je jeho ob��ben� hora,
268
00:28:35,750 --> 00:28:39,210
miesto, ktor� je s��as�ou
jeho srdca a du�e.
269
00:28:39,420 --> 00:28:44,510
Jedin� �al�� �lovek o ktorom viem,
�e mal podobn� pocity, bol m�j otec.
270
00:29:11,080 --> 00:29:13,580
Vid� tam napravo
t� kolm� stenu?
271
00:29:14,410 --> 00:29:17,460
Otec m� na sebe �lt� vetrovku.
272
00:29:17,670 --> 00:29:19,000
Nevid�m ho.
273
00:29:19,210 --> 00:29:21,300
Tak si to sk�s viac pribl�i�.
274
00:29:26,180 --> 00:29:30,680
Eiger je najvy��ia skaln� stena
v Alp�ch, viac ne� 1600 metrov vysok�.
275
00:29:30,970 --> 00:29:35,310
Ke� stoj�te pod �ou, zd� sa v�m,
�e kon�� v nebesiach.
276
00:29:40,070 --> 00:29:42,110
Je to 3-d�ov� v�stup.
277
00:29:42,730 --> 00:29:46,450
A chrb�t ma u� naozaj bol�.
278
00:29:49,070 --> 00:29:51,240
Ke� som sa dostal do bivaku
a otvoril som batoh,
279
00:29:51,450 --> 00:29:53,750
na�iel som list od mojich diev�at.
280
00:29:54,710 --> 00:29:57,250
P�e sa v �om: "Mil� John, u��vaj si to.
281
00:29:57,460 --> 00:29:59,000
A nezab�daj na n�s.
282
00:29:59,210 --> 00:30:02,710
Vedz, �e sme po cel� �as s tebou.
M�m �a rada, Adele."
283
00:30:03,010 --> 00:30:04,170
Ja teba tie�, Adele. Aj Sienu.
284
00:30:04,380 --> 00:30:09,050
Siena nap�sala: "��bim �a ve�mi, ocko."
285
00:30:10,180 --> 00:30:13,520
Tak dobr� noc
a zajtra �spe�n� v�stup...
286
00:30:13,640 --> 00:30:16,060
Pri v�stupe severnou stenou na Eiger
287
00:30:16,270 --> 00:30:19,270
po�ujete zdola kravsk� zvonce
a mno�stvo in�ch zvukov,
288
00:30:19,480 --> 00:30:23,780
no z�rove� sa c�tite by�
ve�mi �aleko.
289
00:30:25,440 --> 00:30:27,450
Cel� noc mus�m le�a� na jednom boku,
290
00:30:27,650 --> 00:30:31,580
budem v�ak priviazan�,
tak�e sa neob�vam, �e spadnem.
291
00:30:46,050 --> 00:30:48,720
Vyrazi� pred �svitom je stra�ideln�.
292
00:30:49,340 --> 00:30:54,390
Robert to vzal �ikmo z�ava,
ja som tie� zost�pil z lavice
293
00:30:54,600 --> 00:31:00,100
a ke� chcela zliez� dole Daniela,
s krat��mi nohami sa jej zle h�adala opora.
294
00:31:00,200 --> 00:31:02,520
Navy�e nebola optim�lne zaisten�.
295
00:31:08,650 --> 00:31:10,910
Zasekla som sa
pod bivakovacou lavicou.
296
00:31:11,110 --> 00:31:14,030
Vedela som, �e keby som sko�ila
a minula oporu,
297
00:31:14,240 --> 00:31:19,040
letela by som dolu 24 metrov,
k�m by ma lano zastavilo.
298
00:31:30,510 --> 00:31:34,050
Na��astie sa jej v podarilo
zliez� dole v poriadku.
299
00:31:34,350 --> 00:31:37,470
Ale bol to zlovestn� �tart
do nov�ho d�a.
300
00:31:53,320 --> 00:31:54,410
Pri v�stupe na Eiger
301
00:31:54,620 --> 00:31:57,950
sa jednoducho nevyhnete my�lienkam
na �ud�, ktor� na tejto stene zahynuli.
302
00:31:58,160 --> 00:32:02,500
Najm�, ke� m��ate zn�me miesta,
na ktor�ch sa odohrali ve�k� trag�die.
303
00:32:02,710 --> 00:32:05,210
Vtedy na to proste nejde nemyslie�.
304
00:32:06,090 --> 00:32:09,050
Dod�va to tejto stene ve�k� zvl�tnos�.
305
00:32:09,260 --> 00:32:10,670
Je to ve�mi �iv�.
306
00:32:31,440 --> 00:32:35,320
Desiv� vec na Eigeri je,
�e skaly sa �asto uvo��uj�
307
00:32:35,530 --> 00:32:40,200
a ak v�s vtedy ochrana nezadr��,
308
00:32:40,410 --> 00:32:43,080
m��ete pada� pekne dlho.
309
00:32:44,330 --> 00:32:50,510
Aj nebezpe�n� v�stup mo�no urobi� bezpe�nej��m,
ak k nemu pristupujete rozumne.
310
00:32:53,180 --> 00:32:55,300
Mus�me zabezpe�i� lan� o �tes
311
00:32:55,510 --> 00:32:59,140
tak�e ako leziem hore,
h�ad�m vhodn� trhliny pre kotvy
312
00:32:59,350 --> 00:33:01,980
na miestach,
kde je skala dostato�ne pevn�.
313
00:33:03,350 --> 00:33:05,480
Ale skala je pokryt� �adom
314
00:33:05,690 --> 00:33:09,610
tak�e aj s cep�nmi je �a�k�
z�ska� spo�ahliv� oporu.
315
00:33:21,750 --> 00:33:24,670
Sledovala som Johna po�as
v�etk�ch problematick�ch �sekov,
316
00:33:24,870 --> 00:33:27,800
aj vo chv�li, ke� sa to stalo,
som sa pr�ve pozerala cez �alekoh�ad
317
00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:32,130
a v okamihu, ke� sa zo�mykol,
sa mi samozrejme zastavilo srdce.
318
00:34:01,450 --> 00:34:04,660
Po�asie sa na Eigeri men� ve�mi r�chlo.
319
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:07,370
Naozaj �ialen� po�asie.
320
00:34:08,000 --> 00:34:10,000
Dole v �dol� kr�sne svieti slnko,
321
00:34:10,210 --> 00:34:13,000
a vy tam hore m�te sne�n� b�rku.
322
00:34:25,600 --> 00:34:29,190
U� som si to�kokr�t spomenul na otca
323
00:34:29,390 --> 00:34:31,520
a na to, �e i�iel hore touto trasou.
324
00:34:31,730 --> 00:34:36,030
No nem��em sa t�m pr�li� zaobera�,
k�m leziem.
325
00:34:36,240 --> 00:34:37,900
Uvid�me v�ak, �o prinesie noc.
326
00:34:38,110 --> 00:34:40,410
T� bude poriadne dlh�.
327
00:34:55,380 --> 00:34:58,300
Otec bivakoval na podobnej lavici,
ako je t�to,
328
00:34:58,510 --> 00:35:01,260
ke� nap�sal svoje posledn� slov�:
329
00:35:02,600 --> 00:35:04,890
"D�fame, �e v najbli���ch d�och
dosiahneme vrchol.
330
00:35:05,100 --> 00:35:07,520
Budeme v�ak opatrn�,
tak sa o n�s nebojte.
331
00:35:07,730 --> 00:35:11,400
M�m v�s v�etk�ch r�d. Otec."
332
00:35:23,280 --> 00:35:26,490
Ke� sme m��ali miesto,
kde sa otcovi pretrhlo lano,
333
00:35:26,700 --> 00:35:29,040
obzrel som sa sp�.
334
00:35:29,250 --> 00:35:33,460
Sna�il som sa dosta� cez toto miesto 40 rokov.
335
00:35:34,210 --> 00:35:37,510
Zhodil som svoj m�j sm�tok a strach z hory,
336
00:35:37,710 --> 00:35:40,010
a i�iel �alej.
337
00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:26,720
Tu hore, tak vysoko na stene,
338
00:36:27,010 --> 00:36:30,100
sme za bodom,
odkia� sa e�te dalo vr�ti�.
339
00:36:31,310 --> 00:36:32,890
Je to desiv�,
340
00:36:33,100 --> 00:36:37,400
preto�e viete, �e u� nem��ete �s� sp� dole...
Len hore.
341
00:38:09,320 --> 00:38:12,540
To, �o ma �a�ilo �tyridsa� rokov je pre�.
342
00:38:12,740 --> 00:38:17,170
Ale bol som emocion�lne vy�erpan�
a Daniela taktie�.
343
00:38:49,660 --> 00:38:54,450
Tento v�stup
mi pomohol vylie�i� star� rany.
344
00:38:55,250 --> 00:38:59,710
Ale miesto toho, aby som sa zameral
na prepojenie s otcom, ako som o�ak�val
345
00:39:00,000 --> 00:39:03,460
som sa c�til ove�a bli��ie k mojej �ene a dc�rke,
346
00:39:03,670 --> 00:39:07,090
ktor� st�li pri mne
ke� som urobil to, �o som urobi� musel.
347
00:39:07,300 --> 00:39:09,340
Uvid�me sa �oskoro, dobre?
348
00:39:09,680 --> 00:39:11,470
Dobre, te��m sa na teba.
349
00:39:15,060 --> 00:39:20,310
V �ase, ke� sme vyst�pili na vrchol,
sa moja boles� chrbta �oraz zhor�ovala.
350
00:39:22,650 --> 00:39:26,400
Robert ma presved�il,
aby som sa nechala z hory zviez�.
351
00:39:27,150 --> 00:39:30,280
Nebolo to pre m�a �ahk� rozhodnutie.
352
00:39:32,490 --> 00:39:35,200
Chcela som pokra�ova� do konca,
353
00:39:35,410 --> 00:39:37,700
ale vedela som, �e m� pravdu.
354
00:40:10,280 --> 00:40:13,320
Ke� som prist�la dolu na l�ke
a uvidela moje deti,
355
00:40:13,530 --> 00:40:16,030
c�tila som sa skvele.
356
00:40:16,240 --> 00:40:19,250
Bolo fajn ma� ich zase pri sebe.
357
00:40:28,590 --> 00:40:32,010
Cesta nadol b�va �asto ove�a
nebezpe�nej�ia ako cesta nahor,
358
00:40:32,220 --> 00:40:37,350
preto�e ste vy�erpan�
a mus�te d�va� pozor na ka�d� krok.
359
00:40:54,200 --> 00:40:57,620
Adrenal�nov� bonb�nik na z�ver.
360
00:41:05,170 --> 00:41:06,330
Blaho�el�me!
361
00:41:06,540 --> 00:41:08,170
Super, d�ky.
362
00:41:25,690 --> 00:41:30,940
Emocion�lny boj, ktor�m som
na Eigeri pre�iel, st�l za to,
363
00:41:31,150 --> 00:41:35,300
preto�e mi umo�nil odovzda� Siene
364
00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:40,280
l�sku k hor�m,
ktor� som poci�oval u� ako chlapec.
365
00:41:43,080 --> 00:41:45,210
Ale m�m e�te jednu povinnos�,
366
00:41:45,420 --> 00:41:48,290
v meste�ku Leysin,
kde som vyrastal.
367
00:41:50,550 --> 00:41:53,720
Otec bol pochovan� tu, v snehovej b�rke.
368
00:41:54,590 --> 00:42:01,010
Ke� som sem pri�iel predt�m,
mal som v�dy ve�mi smutn� pocity.
369
00:42:01,220 --> 00:42:06,440
Ale tentokr�t som sa c�til inak.
C�til som sa akoby som bol osloboden�.
370
00:42:06,640 --> 00:42:11,900
Rovnako, ako ke� som absolvoval v�stup,
vzdal t�m otcovi poctu a i�iel �alej.
371
00:42:12,100 --> 00:42:15,650
Bolo to pre m�a ve�mi pr�jemn� zistenie.
372
00:42:19,530 --> 00:42:22,540
Tieto hory v�dy pri�ahovali siln�ch �ud�.
373
00:42:22,740 --> 00:42:24,660
A v�dy bud�.
374
00:42:26,290 --> 00:42:28,250
Alpy n�s prijali,
375
00:42:28,460 --> 00:42:33,960
rovnako ako priv�tali prv�ch osadn�kov, ktor�
uzreli tieto hory pred mnoh�mi storo�iami
376
00:42:34,170 --> 00:42:38,010
a v duchu si povedali: "My sem patr�me."
377
00:43:30,650 --> 00:43:40,110
Preklad: Quinkent
� 2011
34527
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