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Tom ward (narrates): A confounding facility in new Mexico
caught up in a race to save lives.
It's this weird mix of 19th century bridge building
and 21st century 'buck Rogers' kind of thing.
The search for the location of a highly classified spy mission
in Gibraltar.
There have been rumours
that secret caves had been deliberately covered up
and hidden away.
An Estonian base with an explosive story.
This is a mystical island shrouded in Soviet secrets.
And a site in Italy where life was forever on the edge.
There's always been an air of danger around this town.
Decaying relics...
Ruins of lost worlds...
Sites haunted by the past...
Their secrets waiting to be revealed.
Their secrets waiting to be revealed.
At the gateway to the mediterranean on the southern tip of Europe
is a much coveted rock.
It's a piece of land sticking out of Spain,
but it's not owned by Spain.
All around are signs that it has long been fought over.
If you make it to the top of the rock,
you'll find two enormous guns pointing out to the mediterranean.
This place was important enough
to defend with some serious fire power.
But below ground, the real secrets of this rocky outcrop
have been abandoned and hidden for more than half a century.
Have been abandoned and hidden for more than half a century.
Gibraltar had been a place of strange rumours,
that there were these many secret tunnels.
It is grim.
The air is thick with bugs.
If you're fortunate enough to have a torch with you,
you just might be able to see
glimpses of rusting machinery inside.
This is a dark, nasty place to be.
The top secret operation planned for this grisly dungeon
would require sacrifice and service way beyond the call of duty.
Gibraltar aka the rock
is a British overseas territory.
Maintaining control of this strategic peninsula
has been a centuries' long struggle.
Well, to say Gibraltar was well armed
well, to say Gibraltar was well armed
is a bit of an understatement, Gibraltar was extremely well armed.
Local historian Pete Jackson
was once a gunner in britain's royal artillery.
He was stationed on Gibraltar.
What we're gonna walk to now is a 9.2 inch gun,
this capable of firing a shell 3 miles into Africa.
The rock overlooks the 8 mile wide straits of Gibraltar
and sits opposite Morocco.
Gibraltar is a very key piece of real
estate and essentially whoever controls Gibraltar
controls the mediterranean.
It's been a vital British military base since 1704.
They turned the place into a fortress.
With thousands of soldiers, guns,
with thousands of soldiers, guns,
canon, cavalry, and Navy backup.
When you see the size of the shell this thing fires,
you won't want to be on the receiving end of it,
this is going to put the ship down.
One of these things through the side,
the ship is not going to survive that.
But with the constant threat of attack,
the British needed more than brute force
to maintain their grip on Gibraltar.
And the secret to their success lies hidden in the rock itself.
The towering limestone monolith
hides a labyrinth of spectacular caves and natural tunnels...
And there's also evidence of human activity below ground.
You see the original drill marks as it's all being made in the 1700s.
The tunnels that we're in now date from 1782.
This is when we started to dig in to defend against attack.
This is when we started to dig in to defend against attack.
Back then, British defenders needed the tunnels
to survive Spanish assault during the great siege of Gibraltar.
And centuries later,
when Adolph Hitler came to power in 1933,
the value of Gibraltar was not lost on him.
Hitler had hoped to convince Spain to join the war on his side
and of course if he could offer Franco Gibraltar,
that would be a massive incentive.
The British knew of Hitler's ambitions
and that the age old tunnel system
would be crucial in defending the rock.
British commanders in Gibraltar began to develop
an extensive set of underground tunnels
utilising those that had existed before...
And developing a whole extensive network.
What we're in here is called the great north road
and what it is is more or less a main supply route
within the tunnels
and this was big enough before all the pipes
were fitted to drive a 4 tonne truck through.
The great north road is literally given its name
after the great north road in britain
and you'll see as we move along it,
you enter from maida vale in the south,
turning to the north you get to peterborough,
we then get to doncaster and then on to durham.
The reason for this was to allow young conscript miners
arriving from the UK
the ability to quickly orientate their selves to the system
that they were in.
The royal engineers carved out around 20 miles
of new tunnels
to provide bomb proof accommodation
for britain's Gibraltar defence force
which had doubled in size.
So, they tripled the length of these tunnels,
so, they tripled the length of these tunnels,
this new space had room for weapons, ammunition,
housing about 16,000 soldiers,
they had hospitals, communications,
all within this mountain.
Even so, at the start of the second world war,
Hitler's forces looked set to capture Gibraltar.
So, the British devised
an extraordinary intelligence operation
that would spring in to action when the German's invaded.
It was so highly classified
that little is known about it even today.
For decades, there has been rumours
that the rock of Gibraltar had these secret caves and rooms
that were deliberately covered up and hidden away.
More than half a century after the war ended,
the long lost bunker had still not been found.
But the hunt continued.
But the hunt continued.
For many years, historian Phil Smith
has been exploring Gibraltar's tunnels.
In 1997, a group from the local caving club
sat down just outside here
and felt wind coming through from behind a corrugated iron sheet.
When they removed it, they found cast concrete
and as they moved further up they found a small
entrance that leads to this room here.
Until the discovery of these rooms,
the top secret British intelligence operation
had been little more than conjecture.
The first time I was bought in to this room,
I was absolutely amazed,
I just couldn't believe here hidden away inside of the rock
would be a room like this.
What's unusual about this room
is there aren't any windows anywhere.
There's a door on that side,
there's a door on this side
there's a door on this side
but all the rest of it is just solid wall and ceiling,
so a very strange place.
This clandestine complex was the base of operation tracer,
an audacious British mission
to be activated when Hitler conquered Gibraltar.
Operation tracer was the brainchild
of head of naval intelligence admiral sir John Godfrey.
If Gibraltar fell the British would need information
on what the enemy were doing
so the plan was to seal six naval personnel in this chamber
with enough supplies to last them
so they could observe and report back on enemy movements in the area.
The discovery of these underground spy base
finally proved the existence of operation tracer.
The six volunteers would be entombed within these rooms
for the duration of the war.
For the duration of the war.
With this 6 inch crack as their only window.
There was a 10,000 gallon water tank...
Food supplies for up to seven years...
And the all important communications room.
From here they would spy on Germany military operations
and radio their findings to London every night.
The floor was covered in cork tiles to dampen sound.
They couldn't afford to make a lot of the noise,
so we got the cork tiles on the floor
and the door would have been sealed up
and they've got a wall on the outside
leading to the tunnels,
so all those things would help to keep the area quiet.
And a hand cranked generator was installed to power the radios.
In the '90s, the cavers found this strange contraption here,
you can see the blades on it like a propeller,
but there's also a handle here,
but there's also a handle here,
so it looks like it was hand operated.
It could provide electricity
and being operated by hand
it would give the men a bit of workout,
a bit of upper body training to keep them fit and healthy.
So, now we know why there's two toilets here.
Six men potentially sealed in this area for up to seven years,
if you just had one toilet
and it broke that would be a very serious problem for the men.
So, this along with other things in operation tracer
was always a belt and braces
with something to support the primary object.
In a remarkable act of bravery,
these men would be walled into this underground complex
for the duration of the war.
We're not talking about a couple of days or weeks
or even months.
Years of hiding out in utter darkness,
you'd really have to be a person
that was truly committed to the cause
and one who had high levels of mental toughness.
And one who had high levels of mental toughness.
Operation tracer was brilliantly conceived
if the people involved were carefully selected and trained
I think it would guarantee success.
The concept came
from head of naval intelligence rear admiral John Godfrey,
it's a brilliant plan
and if it all seems slightly James Bond,
then what you should bear in mind
is that one of John Godfrey's assistants was a young naval officer
called Ian Fleming
who later went on to write the James Bond novels.
In the end, Hitler did not attack Gibraltar
and operation tracer was never activated.
And when the war was over,
the undisclosed complex was surreptitiously sealed up.
Today, the British still control Gibraltar,
today, the British still control Gibraltar,
but for how much longer?
Gibraltar is one of those places left behind
as not quite ruins of empire but something like that.
But now that britain is retracted
and no longer thinks of itself as an empire,
what place does Gibraltar hold?
The badlands of new Mexico are as remote as it gets.
Yet someone has built here.
Inside this open desert
is a construction that looks like
it's from the 19th century 'wild wild west'.
There's a sort of bridge to nowhere
that runs off of the ground level, on to this platform.
When you get closer,
this place gets actually more complicated.
This place gets actually more complicated.
It's constructed almost entirely out of wood.
But at the same time,
you've got all this clearly modern technology around it.
A bird insignia could be a clue to what went on here.
And despite appearances this creaking structure
is part of a wider landscape that has had global impact.
The deserts of new Mexico
has a very high pedigree for world changing science.
It was here that the first nuclear bomb was tested.
So, what was this ramshackle wooden construction built for?
The origins of this site
relate to an unprecedented event back in 1962.
The launch of telstar 1.
The launch of telstar 1.
The world's first communications satellite.
Telstar was a real watershed moment of the 20th century.
It was a satellite
that was able to broadcast television signal
from space for the first time ever.
But seven months after telstar launched,
it shut down
and it wasn't immediately obvious as to what went wrong.
Today scientists like lieutenant colonel Jeff heggemeier
of the us air national guard
only know what happened thanks to this crumbling structure
out in the new Mexico desert.
Once a highly restricted military facility.
So, telstar 1 went offline
because we were doing nuclear testing in the pacific.
Once that bomb went off,
it created the first ever electromagnetic pulse.
An electromagnetic pulse, or emp,
is a burst of electromagnetic radiation.
A nuclear explosion causes an emp
because it excites electrons in the ionosphere
which then cause an electromagnetic pulse.
Nuclear electromagnetic pulses cause
damaging current and voltage surges...
Which interfere with electronics in susceptible devices.
From mobile phones to aircraft
to satellites like telstar 1.
An electromagnetic pulse attack today
would decimate the technology we now depend on.
Emp was a real national security threat back in the 1960s.
But today an emp spike would still be devastating.
Emp was such a threat to the American air force
because our aircraft relied on these electronic systems.
It just wipes out the technology,
it wipes out the ability to respond to an attack.
So, america needed a way to make its aircraft emp proof
and therein was the engineering challenge.
The wooden relic at this site
is what they used to subject us military aircraft
to the electromagnetic pulse
created during a nuclear attack.
It's all that remains of a classified testing facility
codenamed atlas one.
So, simulating an emp for an airplane in flight
is not practical, nor is it really safe
because if you affected the electronics,
because if you affected the electronics,
you could potentially cause the airplane to have issues
while in flight.
The structure was made out of wood
because if it was metal,
it would affect the electromagnetic pulse we were trying to simulate
and so the solution was to build the world's largest wooden structure
in the middle of the desert.
The design they came up with was inspired
by those old railroad trestles,
hence the name of the structure was trestle.
But the structure couldn't be too high
or they wouldn't be able to get the
100 tonne $300 million aircraft onto it.
The hole in the ground idea was to take a natural hole
and dig it out a little bit more
such that we could put the trestle inside of it.
The idea was to roll the plane off of a cliff
on to a platform,
on to a platform,
so finding the hole in the ground was the easy part.
The difficult part was being able to design this platform
with all of the specific specifications.
That was the job of scientists like bill prather.
My role with atlas one
was as a member of the engineering design team.
Bill knew that the damaging electromagnetic pulses
created by a nuclear blast
would wipe out the electronics in American military aircraft.
But how were they able to simulate such an explosion
on this rickety looking structure.
It's hard to tell from a distance,
but if you look closely,
you'll see these cables that look like powerlines
that are running on either side of the platform,
those are incredibly important
to how atlas one actually worked.
The wedge building on this side
was used for the instrumentation
that recorded the currents measured off
of the aircraft and on either side
are high voltage generators
that generate the emp.
8 million volts on each side
and it drives the pulses on to these wire plates,
one on this side and one on the far side over here,
generating the emp across this way where the aircraft is parked.
We had to do that
because we couldn't use nuclear weapons,
so, we simulated it with high voltage equipment.
Basically, this plane was just inundated
and just bombarded with emp and then after that,
they would turn off the machine, get in,
they would turn off the machine, get in,
put the key in the ignition, and see if the plane still turned on.
This was cutting-edge technology at the time as well
and they couldn't really tell
if it was going to work
until they ran their first test.
The emp pulse from an enemy nuclear attack
would put millions of lives in danger,
so, they put their trust in scientists and engineers.
We knew the structure was good and we knew the concept
would generate the emp.
When they were ready for their first test,
they rolled the aircraft on to the platform
and then they turned on generators which then fired 16 million volts.
As the structure was blasted with the massive current,
to bill's relief, it worked.
It was the first of many atlas one experiments
which showed the us air force how to shield electronics from emps.
Which showed the us air force how to shield electronics from emps.
We then added protection to the plane to stop
that electrical energy from getting through into the plane.
Atlas one really helped the military make leaps forward
in terms of emp resistant circuitry.
By making certain that aircraft could still fly,
even after being hit with emps, we were able to make sure
that mutually assured destruction stayed in place.
And that's an important piece in keeping the cold war cold.
In 1991, with the cold war at an end,
the atlas simulator was finally abandoned.
But the efforts of bill prather
and the atlas one engineers certainly did not go to waste.
And the atlas one engineers certainly did not go to waste.
The thing about emps is they haven't gone away.
Our cell phones, our electrical grids,
all these things would just be completely wiped out.
In the aspromonte mountains of southern Italy,
the shell of a town looms above an inaccessible land.
The town follows the contours of the hillside,
winding down all the way to the river at the very end.
There are multiple levels of houses stacked
on top of each other in places as many as five stories,
all overlooking this deathly drop.
Its desolate streets are paved with the husks of homes
and businesses.
There were stacks of gas cannisters, the
there were stacks of gas cannisters, the
remains of an empty bakery, and even a solitary woman's shoe.
Floors have given away and fallen through,
this place is teetering on the edge of total collapse.
A river bed full of curiously large boulders and scars
on the surrounding hillsides could give an insight
into what left this place deserted.
You wonder if whatever happened here
was completely natural or if there is something else
that could have happened to make everyone leave.
When this village died,
a unique and ancient culture died with it.
The ghost town of roghudi vecchio sits in a precarious position.
The name roghudi derives from words meaning full of crevasses
the name roghudi derives from words meaning full of crevasses
or just harsh and looking around here
you can really understand that.
But that's not the most interesting thing about its name.
Its name is actually Greek, but we're in Italy.
Roghudi is so cut off from the world
that many don't use Italian here but a dialect of ancient Greek.
Former resident Bruno stelitano is one of the few
who can still speak this rare language.
(Speaks foreign language)
The people of roghudi claim origins
that trace back thousands of years
that trace back thousands of years
to the ancient Greeks.
In the 8th century bc,
the Greeks established colonies along the nearby coastlines
of the black and mediterranean seas.
Many ancient Greeks moved
to the coast of Italy
where they founded trading ports.
But over the centuries,
invasions by coastal raiders forced these Greek speaking people
to retreat into the mountains to fortress villages like roghudi.
Not only did this keep them safe
but it preserved their culture from outside influences
for many years to come.
Isolated in this harsh landscape, for centuries,
they clung to the traditions of their Greek ancestors,
some of them eerily foreshadowed the future.
Not far from the village, there's this strange rock
that has confused geologists for years.
That has confused geologists for years.
No-one can quite tell if it's naturally made or man-made.
Supposedly an ancient dragon lived under this rock
with a hoard of treasures taken from bandits and thieves.
The residents of roghudi even sent their priest to feed
the dragon to keep it from destroying their town.
When the priest died, there was no-one to feed the dragon,
it's said that it was so angry that it Rose up
and created landslides for the rest of the town.
The rugged terrain that had once kept them safe would in the end
be their downfall.
This region was prone to earthquakes
and there are two earthquakes that occurred,
one in 1905 and another one in 1908.
The earthquakes rocked the whole of southern Italy.
(Speaks foreign language)
And the river valleys that cut through this region contain evidence
of an altogether different threat.
The reason why the riverbeds that surround the town are so wide
is because when the winter rains and the spring fall comes,
it creates these raging torrents.
As all of this water rushes through the landscape,
it scours the riverbed and everything in its path.
As the water courses down, it causes mudslides
that send boulders powering down towards the riverbeds,
putting the mountaintop villages in serious danger.
In the 1950s, a series of flash floods threatened
in the 1950s, a series of flash floods threatened
to wash roghudi away.
The villagers clung on,
but two decades later,
they weren't so lucky.
In 1971, there was an unprecedented storm.
The saturated ground caused
the slopes beneath the village to move.
(Speaks foreign language)
There was a real fear that the entire town
could have come crashing down hundreds of feet at any moment.
On 16 February 1971,
the town's mayor ordered an evacuation.
The entire population of 1,600 people
were forced to pick up everything they owned and leave.
Were forced to pick up everything they owned and leave.
It seemed the freak rainfall was not the only thing to blame
for the destruction.
Although the floods definitely weakened
the town's foundations, there might be more to this story.
In the 1940s and 1950s, the inhabitants decided
that they wanted to install running water
and a sewer in the town.
Some locals believe
that this may have had unintended consequence.
(Speaks foreign language)
When the floods hit in 1971,
it's possible that the new drainage system
had already weakened the ground below the town.
There's a cruel irony in that trying
to bring modern conveniences to their town,
to bring modern conveniences to their town,
they may have signed its death warrant.
Some residents attempted to return over the years
but most stayed away.
And roghudi was left to rot.
Although the people here lost homes and livelihoods,
there was another casualty of the floods.
It was not only the town
that was decimated by these disasters.
They also severely diminished
the ancient greco Italian culture of the region.
Once widely used across the region,
today calabrian Greek is spoken only by a remaining few.
(Speaks foreign language)
Off the coast of Estonia sits a small island with a big secret.
If you look at the island from above,
you can't see much apart from a thick covering
of evergreen forest.
This forest cover is hiding a narrow Gauge railway.
If you follow along this railroad track,
it will lead you to these pretty imposing structures.
The threatening installations are clearly military.
All along the shoreline of this island
are concrete emplacements and they've got no windows.
When you come up to these buildings,
you see all these things scattered about.
And the rusting remains of heavy ordnance
and the rusting remains of heavy ordnance
may explain the absence of life here.
Something dangerous must have been going on here,
this place was once heavily guarded.
So, what was it hiding?
Estonia's naissaar island sits in the Gulf of Finland,
a strategically important stretch of sea.
(Speaks foreign language)
Olar gofman's family has a strong link to this place.
Olar gofman's family has a strong link to this place.
(Speaks foreign language)
He was following in the footsteps of his grandfather Johannes
who had come to naissaar
when it was still controlled by Russia.
(Speaks foreign language)
The island had been inhabited by fishermen and seal hunters
for hundreds of years.
But because of its strategic position,
but because of its strategic position,
it began to attract the attention of major militaries.
You've got Finland to the north,
you've got Russia to the east,
Estonia to the south,
and Sweden to the west.
In the early decades of the 20th century,
tsarist Russia was on the defensive.
(Explosion)
The original defences were built in 1914
when Estonia was part of the Russian empire.
They'd just suffered a humiliating defeat against Japan,
so the empire led by tsar Nicholas ii decided
to build a series of coastal fortifications
to protect st Petersburg.
(Speaks foreign language)
And there are more tsarist constructions hidden
and there are more tsarist constructions hidden
in the woods.
(Speaks foreign language)
Following the Russian revolution in 1917,
naissaar continued under Russian control,
this time under the communists.
And soon olar's grandfather Johannes was one of the only residents left.
(Speaks foreign language)
For the Soviets, the island's dense forest
was extremely appealing.
Around 85% of the island is covered in forest
making it perfect for covert missions.
The Soviets see the location of the island
as an important one, from that place,
they're going to be able to dominate and control the baltic sea.
They spent a lot of time and a lot of energy building
a whole industrial complex there on the island,
under the cover of the forest.
This is the naissaar sea mines factory.
(Speaks foreign language)
It was the largest naval mine factory
in the whole of the baltic,
it had workshops, storage facilities,
barracks, a network of subterranean bunkers,
and even a power station.
These mines were incredibly dangerous,
when one of them exploded in the water,
the shock from it could be felt over a mile away.
Moving such dangerous weapons around the island was no easy task.
(Speaks foreign language)
They could be moved safely, silently,
without having to build up stores
of vehicles and vehicle fuel.
All the sites on the island were connected by rail.
After assembly, these deadly weapons would be transported again
to the harbour and out into the far reaches
of the Soviet union.
Naissaar was fortified yet further
when the cold war intensified and secrecy heightened.
In the 1960s, the Soviets moved beyond mines
and they actually built a missile base.
(Speaks foreign language)
At the end of the cold war, thousands of sea mines
were abandoned here.
They dismantle and disarm
something like 13,000 of these mines.
When you walk across the island today,
you see hundreds, thousands of empty shells
you see hundreds, thousands of empty shells
of these formerly active mines.
But one mystery remains unsolved.
(Speaks foreign language)
Today, naissaar welcomes back visitors of all kinds.
In 1995, naissaar island becomes
a nature reserve, so tourists and hikers can go
and walk on this once forbidden and very dangerous island.
(Speaks foreign language)
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