Original subtitles

Tom ward (narrates): In new Mexico usa

an outpost built on deception and lies.

People came to make their fortune

but what they found was betrayal, violence and retribution.

An institution in Scotland that started a medical revolution.

These buildings represent a real turning point

in the history of medicine.

A factory in Germany

that gave the world a popular product.

Some people called it white gold because it was so valuable.

And in Iraq a lost city, the former home of two tyrants.

It's clearly the site of a famous ruler,

but it's not the person you really think it's gonna be.

Decaying relics, shadows of lost worlds.

Ruins haunted by the past,

their secrets waiting to be revealed.

Between Edinburgh and Glasgow in central Scotland,

an imposing ruin cast a long shadow.

This epic building rising out of the woodlands

which is totally roofless.

Very imposing, made of stone,

designed almost like a giant church with two clock or bell towers.

But they're totally dilapidated,

everything is just collapsed in to chaos inside.

There is so much feeling of disaster here,

that you can't help...

But think that this is a dangerous place.

There are clues here about a terrifying past.

So, you used to find old wheelchairs,

an electric shockbox, we've found straitjackets,

we've found probes as well.

Here in lanarkshire,

people viewed this place as frightening

as an object of suspicion and it was a threat.

Hartwood was like the place that everybody was scared of...

When we were younger.

Lorraine Duncan grew up in the shadow of this spooky place.

It was a place that we associated with the bogeyman, as we called it.

A place that you were threatened with to go to if you misbehaved

or if you were just naughty with your mum and dad.

People could get locked up here against their will

and be in that grim forbidding place for the rest of their lives.

This complex was hartwood hospital,

a psychiatric asylum

that served lanarkshire in Scotland for a century.

It's notorious, yeah.

There's quite a few asylums in lanarkshire

but this is one of the biggest.

In the 1950s

it was one of the largest mental institutions in Europe

with over 2,500 patients.

By this time it had developed a fearsome reputation,

forged since it's opening in the late 19th century.

When the building of this impressive place

began in 1890

it was designed to accommodate 420 patients.

The main building had this elegant look,

almost like a large cathedral with two beautiful clock towers.

Wherever you're driving from... You can actually see those towers.

So, it was a basically, "look at me, look how good I am."

Overlooking the new completed asylum

was the home of its first superintendent

dr Archibald Campbell Clarke,

an experimental physician who pushed boundaries.

Where we are just now is Campbell Clark's house

so this was the very first building to be built in the hartwood estate.

The work started in January 1890,

this was basically Campbell Clark's empire

so that he could actually look out to hartwood that side

and look out to all the surrounding grounds.

Campbell Clark bought ground breaking ideas

in mental health to hartwood.

These buildings represent a real turning point

in the history of medicine.

Way back in the victorian times it was very, very brutal, asylums.

They were called inmates,

so that tells you quite a lot

about the attitudes towards mental health and asylums.

Dr Campbell Clark's view

is that mental institutions ought to be a place

where people would not be restrained,

they wouldn't be in strait jackets.

Clark thought it was vitally important

for patients to live

something like a normal life.

The hospital staff members

were particularly keen for their patients

to share leisure time with one another.

You had the male warden, you had the female warden,

they would come in together in to one big main dining room

which is over there.

It would hold about 600 people with the big impressive windows,

I can always remember the big impressive windows

at the front

and then upstairs was what they called...

The recreational room

which would 1,200 people where they would have the cinemas

and the dancing and...

And just have a jolly time in the place.

Dr Campbell Clarke hoped these communal activities

would help the hospital achieve its ultimate goal.

His vision was to create this nurturing environment

and get them back out into their homes

and back in to their communities.

One of his more revolutionary ideas

was to get the patients to work on the site.

Male patients were put to work

as tailors, shoe makers, bakers, gardeners,

whereas the women were put to work in the kitchen

and generally doing the housework around the ward.

Today we call this occupational therapy

and working folding sheets

or in the kitchen or tending vegetables

might not sound that exciting

but for a patient who might otherwise be sitting in a room

staring at the walls,

this was something that was very healthy.

Eventually hartwood became less reliant on the outside world.

In time hartwood hospital was almost entirely self-sustaining.

The compound, it had gardens for growing food,

it had a small cemetery, various workshops.

It even had its own railway station,

a branch line from the caledonian railway,

Scotland's major 19th century train network.

So, this here is part of the railway line

and it was used to bring in the coal and supplies

and it would come in to the kitchen and sculleries

and that was about this area here,

it would bring in coal which is about 9 shillings

a tonne at the time but that's what powered hartwood

and created the generation and the heat and the hot water.

This was a tiny little boom town built around ideas of mental health.

As part of his radical reform in mental health,

Campbell Clark introduced an over haul

in the training of nurses.

The speciality of psychiatric nursing to this day

owes some of its origins to this institution

and to its visionary director.

So, where we are just now is the old nursing home.

It was ultimately to be used as a training hospital.

This is actually the first time I have been in since 1994.

The state of the place, and how much it's been ruined.

It's a shame, it's a loss.

A total loss.

Hartwood discharged more patients

than any other hospital in the country...

But some of the methods used are outlawed today.

When they started demolishing the buildings

things were just like abandoned everywhere

and we've found straitjackets,

we've found probes as well

that would have been used to electric shock people,

they would force feed them, they would starve them.

It's safe to say that people in the local community

don't believe that the conditions at hartwood

even under Campbell Clark

were as humane as they appeared on paper.

The standards of the care of the mentally ill

in that era were really quite dark.

Campbell Clark trialled experimental new procedures

and ended up turning hartwood in to something else entirely.

It is said that Campbell Clark was one of the early doctors

to perform lobotomies on his patients.

Viewed as a kind of miracle cure,

surgeons drill two holes in to the skull

then insert a sharp spiked instrument

in to the brain to cut off the frontal lobe.

It was the first man actually to bring lobotomies to Europe,

a lot was experimental

which they believed that they could actually rewire their brains

and they would basically make them in to a vegetable state.

And they didn't learn, they would do one

and then they would move on to another one

until they could actually find a cure which they never ever did.

What we do in mental health now,

you would never dream of doing anything like that.

But what we need to remember is in the late 1800s early 1900s,

that was normal.

That was seen as being groundbreaking.

In 1901 dr Campbell Clark died of influenza,

some say he was a pioneer in patient care.

Others that he exploited his position

to experiment on vulnerable people...

But after his death the horrors at hartwood escalated.

The problem is that dr Campbell Clark

dies a very young man

but people who come after him are not as dedicated

to rehabilitation and to occupational therapy.

Over time the hospital population grew dramatically

and the conditions deteriorated.

Hartwood was seen as a horror house

and most disturbing at all anyone could find themselves here.

1927, you could actually just drive up here

and dump your wife off at the gate.

Pay the 5 pounds and away you go.

The reasons that you were put into hartwood

is would turn your stomach nowadays.

You could be committed for getting pregnant,

'cause you couldn't hold down a job

or you could be sent to an institution

because your relatives didn't like you.

We've found people who were epileptic,

we've got kids who were poor in youth,

who were put into hartwood.

It's totally mind-blowing.

Being drunk, that was another one we found.

A 24-year-old woman who had been wandering the streets

and the police actually brought her here

and she lived her life in hartwood.

By the end of the 20th century,

reforms in legislation spelt the beginning of the end

for hartwood.

By the late 20th century

the standards of care for the mentally ill

had changed a lot.

Community care act was an effort to shut down the old asylums

and distribute patients in smaller facilities

or in their own communities with some kind of support system.

That was the end of the line for hartwood

and other large asylums of that type.

The hospital closed in 1998,

today dedicated locals like Lorraine

are determined to recognise the forgotten patients

and outcasts of hartwood.

So, we're in hartwood cemetery,

we have got 635 graves and we've got 1,255 people.

Sadly the hospital's medical and cemetery records

were destroyed or are missing,

leaving only numbers as a record of those who died.

So, now what we're trying to do is dig up all the numbers

and give everybody their name back.

And give them their dignity and the respect

that they should be due.

South of Baghdad in Iraq

on an endless desert plain lie the ruins of a lost city.

This harsh landscape,

broken only by the euphrates

was once home to the greatest city the world had yet seen.

A city that was not just central to the culture

and politics of the region

but significant in the entire history

of the civilised world.

When you first see this site from above

it looks like a labyrinth,

not just a hodge podge of different structures

but an actual maze.

This place is just massive

and it's surrounded by huge fortified walls.

But not everything in this ruin is ancient.

You can see the kind of classic sort of ruins

that you might expect from an old archaeological site

with walls sort of crumbling away.

But then you turn a corner

and there's a wall that looks like it was made a couple of days ago

so you've got this kind of juxtaposition of old and new.

Stories of this place have endured through time.

Even appearing in the pages of the Bible.

In its time

this was one of the largest cities on the planet.

Tales of its construction and the powerful ruler who built it,

still echo around the world to this day.

Allegedly this place was home

to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world

but it's never been found

prompting the question did it even exist?

This is the ancient city of Babylon,

the supposed home to a lost wonder.

The hanging gardens of Babylon

are described as this extraordinary feat

of engineering,

these layers of lush vegetation

fed through a complex system of waterways

that by some accounts kind of defy gravity

as they rise up out of the desert plain.

But the ancient gardens have disappeared.

The many Greek and Roman accounts of the hanging gardens

are all second hand

so archaeologists have searched in vain

for the exact location of the hanging gardens.

For two millennia people have only been able to guess

at the location of the gardens of Babylon.

But in 1902 one man believed he'd found it.

Babylon it was very important for me

because it's the centre of our civilisation.

Mohammed tahir is a scholar of ancient Babylon.

When we were children my father used to bring us to visit.

He insisted to learn us to love the heritage.

Our heritage.

The heritage here goes back more than 2,000 years,

part of that history is written on the walls.

Here we have original stone,

it is limestone in about 605 bc.

All these are original writing and here

this is the name of nebuchadnezzar ii.

Nebuchadnezzar ii was king of babylonia.

He claimed to be descended from fabled rulers...

But his reign saw him build a legend of his own.

Nebuchadnezzar ii

is known as the greatest king of the new babylonian empire,

he ruled over much of what is today the middle east from 604 to 562 bce.

Nebuchadnezzar had an interesting strategy

to ensure that his name would leave on in to posterity,

he had it carved in to many of the bricks.

His greatest legacies

are the surviving structures of the ancient city of Babylon,

the place where he built his capital.

He rebuilt Babylon trying to top the previous version.

Ancient sources say the city had between 300 and 400 temples.

And to defend his capital city, he built the ishtar gate.

Ishtar gate was one of nine gates in Babylon.

The army of Babylon,

they used to stand at the top of ishtar gate

for protection.

So, you can imagine you sort of...

You're allowed through the ishtar gate

and you're presented with this amazing processional way,

this... this... this artery that runs north, south,

through the whole of the city

and this would have been used for religious festivals

but also to parade the armies up and down

as they went off to fight their adversaries.

But the processional way is not like it once was.

Today the ishtar gate in Babylon is a fake.

This is not original, this is replica.

It is designed

by one of Iraqi committee in 1958.

Nebuchadnezzar's Babylon has stood for nearly 3,000 years

but its history was changed forever by the emergence of a new tyrant,

his name was Saddam hussain.

Part of his vision was to lead a pan arabist empire

that would stretch over pretty much the same territory

as nebuchadnezzar's had done centuries earlier.

He kind of models himself on these kings of the past

and what he does with Babylon instead of preserving it

or excavating it even further

he starts to actually build on it.

It's said that nebuchadnezzar decreed

that when his grandsons returned to the city of Babylon

they should rebuild it to its former glory.

So, Saddam, he considered himself in his mind

he was grandson of nebuchadnezzar and he followed this advice

and he decided to rebuild the palace again.

Saddam built his new monuments on top of ancient Babylon

but when he was deposed the city was abandoned

and its history destroyed.

In my view,

the structures that Saddam Hussein built on the site

should be removed,

yes, they're of historic relevance

but they are not of global historical significance

the way Babylon is for the entire world.

Areas of Babylon had been lost forever

but one relic might have been hidden in a place

where even Saddam couldn't get his hands on it.

In 1899,

famous archaeologist Robert koldewey

started a large-scale excavation of the site

using comparatively modern techniques.

During the excavations

it was in the north-east corner that they found

these chambers and a kind of well

and it was thought that this might be a place

where they drew up water to feed the gardens of Babylon.

Robert koldewey discovered a basement

with 14 rooms and stone arches.

They appeared to match the descriptions

of the hanging gardens in ancient texts.

But it turns out that this sort of theory

of the north-east corner being the gardens of Babylon

was probably not quite the case

'cause actually from the architecture

and the fact that this area was much lower

than the surrounding buildings

it meant that it was probably used as a kind of natural fridge

so the hot air of the desert rising,

this area would maintain a kind of low temperature

so you could keep wine in there,

in affect almost like the local wine store.

Robert koldewey left Babylon

without ever finding its hanging gardens.

Now, after Saddam's interventions they may never be found at all.

Currently a large-scale conservation project

hopes to train local technicians to help preserve the city

and ultimately get it qualified as a world heritage site.

My hope for the future,

I want to see Babylon as a centre for tourism in the world

because Babylon deserves that.

Deep within new Mexico's chihuahuan desert,

among the rattle snacks and tumbleweeds

sits a time capsule of america's past.

There's nothing around for miles on end,

just mountains and desert.

You're in these dry baron rolling hills

and then here's this little cluster

of very plain simple old buildings.

There's this dusty main street

that runs through the centre of the town,

you can imagine that

there were probably lots of people here before

but now everything is empty, everyone is gone.

Strewn with trinkets from a bygone era,

it feels like it's only a matter of time

before everything here is swallowed up by the desert.

There are broken windows and rotting timbers

and even rusty wagons.

The paint is peeled off the walls,

there's not much left in the way of furniture.

Signs of a violent past recall a time

when this part of america was beyond the reach of law.

A noose hangs eerily from one of the ceilings.

I'm not sure this is a town

I would have liked to have spent much time in.

This really was the wild west,

it was a lawless frontier

and one wrong step and you could be shot or hanged.

People came to make their fortune

but what they found was betrayal, violence and retribution.

Local resident Dave ochsenbine knows firsthand

the difficulties of living in such a harsh environment.

This is very hot dry climate out here

and the ground is very hard and rocky

so this would have been a pretty tough place to live.

People take it for granted

how easy we actually have it in day to day life.

It's a really harsh climate and environment

but if there was such a thriving town here

then there was something that made that worthwhile.

Anytime you see manmade structures in this kind of barren environment

you have to ask yourself, "what bought people here,

"why would they build something in this god forsaken place?"

This town first made its early name

by mining the regions rich silver deposits...

But by 1871

there were rumours that something far more valuable

had been discovered here.

Diamonds.

This was huge

so miners come flooding in and back come the bars,

and the brothels, and the people and the trouble makers,

this time thinking they're going to get rich on diamonds.

But diamonds were just the newest

of the underground discoveries in the region.

Another was made when this place was a waterstop

in the middle of the new Mexico desert.

This little spot had been used by native peoples

for many centuries,

there's a small water source here

which is always important in the desert.

So, this army mail station

was the first building on the property

because of that small spring, constructed by the army in 1856,

they could water their horses up

while delivering order between forts.

So, really in the beginning this was just a stopping point,

there was no real reason for people to actually live here,

that is until an incredible discovery was made.

In 1870,

prospectors discovered silver deposits in the area.

Almost overnight people started moving to this town

and wanting to open up mining claims

but to really develop the mines

they needed some serious investment money.

With global demand for silver on the rise,

one veteran of the California gold rush

stepped in to stake his claim.

The big money came from a guy named William rawlstone.

He was the head of the bank of California

and one of the most influential business people

in the west at that time.

With William rawlstone's financing the town grew pretty quickly,

you know, there's be 3,000 miners here

during the first boom

and there would have been 150 to 200 structures here

at that point.

But with so much money to be made

and so far away from civilised america,

maintaining the rule of law was not an easy business.

This was a very harsh rough town during its peak,

160 years ago you would have seen many saloons

along this street

and with miners going in and out of the different saloons,

they travelled in packs during that time for protection.

So, all the old movies you've seen of dangerous desert cowboy towns,

that's really what this was kind of like.

There was no law enforcement here,

you know, except for the one agreed

upon what rule that if you killed someone you had to Bury them.

Rawlstone was keen to protect his investments

and so he employed a group of hired guns from Texas.

In fact as they began to develop this town,

they named it rawlstone after the banker.

He had never been there

but the town carried his name regardless,

it was a little bit like somebody might name a town

Morgan Stanley today or something.

A bankers name was a stamp of quality

but a scandal was about to hit the town.

In 1871,

a rumour got out that diamonds were found

on one of rawlstone's properties at Lee's peak

which was not too far outside of the town of rawlstone.

Rawlstone was a big investor in the diamond fields

with Lee's peak out here.

And with so much at stake,

rawlstone was forced to recruit outlaws

to protect his interests.

The hired guns were to keep people away from the mines,

guys like curly bill broaches and Sandy king

would have been a couple of the cowboys

that rawlstone had patrolling the different hills here

and keeping people away from the mines.

There was a lot of tension between the miners and rawlstone's thugs.

There were many rumours of fighting

and at one point it almost came to all out war.

The discovery of diamonds

looks set to put this frontier town on the map.

Which it did but for the wrong reasons.

The great American geologist Clarence king

was asked to come in and look in to this claim

that there was a huge diamond discovery in the west.

It all turned out to be a scam.

In reality two prospectors planted diamonds

and other precious gems in a remote spot

in a bid to con rawlstone and other investors

to buying the land off them.

They'd actually bought South African rough diamonds in england

and bought them back over to america.

Rawlstone's company collapsed

and by late 1873 the town reverted

to pretty much a desolate stage coach stop.

Rawlstone died about two years later,

some people believe it was by suicide

but that's not actually where the story of this town stops.

In 1879,

English mining engineer William g boyle

acquired the dormant silver claims.

Boyle's investment breathed new life in to the area

and sparked a second boom period.

Boyle's first move was to get rid of the name rawlstone

and replace it with someone who was more widely revered,

William Shakespeare.

Boyle tried to erase the past with this new name

and clean up the town's tarnished reputation

but some old habits die hard.

Shakespeare had three saloons,

it had two blacksmiths, two hotels, a meat market,

a mercantile shop and a lawyer

but that doesn't mean the law had come to town.

This was a stage coach station

and this front room would have been the dining room

and you would have had passengers stopping here.

As you can see this not only served as a dining room

but also served as the hanging room as well,

the lack of tall trees in the area,

you needed a place to stretch someone's neck

and this became the room.

In 1881,

two wild west outlaws met their end here.

One of the men Sandy king was a hired gun

from the rawlstone era.

On one occasion Sandy king got in to an altercation

with the local store keeper

and king actually pulled out his gun

and ended up shooting the store keepers finger off

so king was promptly arrested.

At about the same time,

William tatenbomb a friend of king's

who was more commonly known as Russian bill

was also arrested for cattle wrestling.

Local militia here would get together

and they'd already decided they were gonna hang Russian bill

and they figured they may as well just hang Sandy at the same time,

that way they only had to dig the one hole.

On the afternoon of November 9, 1881,

Sandy king and Russian bill were hanged by the neck

until they were dead.

This will be a terrible place to be hung,

this wouldn't be a drop you and break your neck,

this would be a pull you, you know, pull you up and tie you off.

The local militia would just stand around

and wait until the two men quit kicking

then these guys all went back to their homes.

Not long after the execution of the two outlaws,

Shakespeare became a ghost town once again.

When the southern pacific railroad company

completely their line

they actually bypassed the town by 3 miles

and so once that happened,

everyone moved to lordsburg

which was the town that was closest to the tracks.

Today, preserving Shakespeare means a battle against the elements,

it's being fought by Dave and his family.

Well, it's very important to me because of the family connection

'cause they spent so many years here

trying to keep this town going and trying to keep this preserved

for people to come and enjoy.

Towns like this give us a lens through which to look at our history

and they give us an insight in to these little towns

that made up the wild west, the lawless west

from which our country grew out of.

In Germany is the birth place of an item found in every home.

Outside the place has the feeling maybe of a hospital

or a sanatorium

but inside you're confronted with the fragile remains

of something very different.

This building isn't water tight,

if it rains outside it's raining inside.

When you look at these machines

and all of the industrial investment in this place,

it's easy to imagine

hard working people coming here to earn their living,

everything here clicking and whirring along day after day.

Why did they stop?

This is a huge complex

and there's something new to explore around every corner,

there's machines, there's old files and documents.

But you also start to feel a bit uneasy,

why is it that every now and again...

Something crunches delicately underfoot.

When this place was built,

Germany was a world leader in a fine craft.

Tim Morris is dedicated to preserving its heritage.

In every corner are the fragile leftovers

of what was made here.

Fine crafted porcelain.

Shelves upon shelves of porcelain line the walls

and so you almost instinctively feel

like you need to watch your step and be careful

but this building has already been ravaged.

This is the arzberg factory,

it's one of many porcelain plants in Germany

but this place had a secret recipe.

Porcelain is said to date back about 2,000 years

and some of the earliest sites of production are in China.

It was used to make teacups and plates

but also decorative items like intricate statues.

Some people called it white gold because it was so valuable

and only the Chinese knew how to make porcelain.

The exact combination of materials to produce porcelain can vary

but there is one material that is necessary

and that is kaolin or China Clay.

But at the start of the 18th century,

China's secret was uncovered.

One German engineer discovers the right temperature

and just the right additives...

And suddenly anybody can make porcelain.

With the secret out, China's monopoly was over.

Now, white gold could be made on the European continent.

So, German porcelain coming from Bavaria

can be sold all over Europe as an alternative

to the porcelain coming from China.

With German porcelain in great demand,

in 1887 a factory was built in the town of arzberg.

It was under the management of a man named lehman.

Theodor lehmann is a German son

of a porcelain Potter who becomes...

A porcelain industrial baron.

He turns the business from a craft

into an industrial process.

At this time German products were dominating markets.

And so Great Britain actually passed the merchandise Mark act

which would required

that any product that was produced in Germany

had to have a stamp or a seal

that essentially said that it was made in Germany

and the hope was that this would deter people

from buying them

but it ends up becoming the sort of seal of approval

or a seal of quality.

But one man believed

that lehmann was selling a poor product.

Hermann gretsch comes up to lehmann and he says,

"that shape of pot is useless,

"your soup terrine is shaped

"so that you can never get the last bit of soup

"out of the bowl with a ladle",

and the answer is,

"well, could you do any better?"

And gretsch says, "well, I happen to be a pottery designer

"and I can do better."

Gretsch was hired to design a new product

with modern appeal and an ergonomic shape

he called form 1382.

And it is an entire set of tableware

that's designed to look harmonious together

and it becomes the classic

German middleclass tableware.

The fact that you could buy individual pieces

to make your own set kind of democratised porcelain,

it made something that every day people could buy

and it was no longer something just for the elite.

Form 1382 could be found in modest European homes

or on the grand tables of world leaders.

Gretsch is really German

so his designs become

the standard German pottery designs

and everyone in Germany maybe even Hitler

has got arzberg China right there on their dinner tables.

But all this devastation had an unexpected consequence

for the porcelain factory.

In the years after the war

ordinary people rushed to replace all the belongings

that had been destroyed in the course of the war.

And if not for that devastation and loss

the '50s and '60s

wouldn't have been such a booming time for business.

So, people literally stood on line to buy porcelain,

it wasn't a commodity of the elite any more,

it was something that every household needed.

Form 1382 transformed the fortunes of German porcelain...

But the golden age didn't last forever.

After the second world war,

Japanese manufacturers

start to take over global markets

and Japanese makers are able to compete globally

for exactly the same buyers

and German porcelain makers

who can't compete have to merge.

Today the arzberg factory remains frozen in time.

Not much remains from the proud days

of hermann gretsch

except shelf after shelf bending under the weight

of this porcelain.

It's still pristine after all this time

which is a real testament

to the durability of this amazing product.

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