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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:38,980 --> 00:00:43,720 In August 2008, 11 climbers died on K2 2 00:00:43,830 --> 00:00:50,790 They were the most tragic 48 hours in the history of climbing the mountain. 3 00:00:55,588 --> 00:00:58,531 I think people are interested in trying to know 4 00:00:58,532 --> 00:01:01,699 what actually happened to our minds. 5 00:01:01,700 --> 00:01:04,112 8,000 meter, you're in the death zone. 6 00:01:07,044 --> 00:01:08,834 There is a struggle. 7 00:01:08,835 --> 00:01:12,099 There is a fight in every breath, 8 00:01:12,100 --> 00:01:14,740 in every thought. 9 00:01:18,371 --> 00:01:19,650 Everything hurts. 10 00:01:19,651 --> 00:01:23,106 Every limb, every cell is screaming, 11 00:01:23,107 --> 00:01:26,179 "Oxygen, oxygen, oxygen." 12 00:01:28,034 --> 00:01:30,977 You don't feel the cold anymore. 13 00:01:30,978 --> 00:01:34,050 Time seems to stand still. 14 00:01:46,017 --> 00:01:47,713 There's so many reasons to turn around 15 00:01:47,714 --> 00:01:51,662 and only a couple of reasons to continue. 16 00:01:59,617 --> 00:02:00,992 In one hand, 17 00:02:00,993 --> 00:02:06,534 people question us climbing a mountain like K2. 18 00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:10,015 In the other hand, 19 00:02:10,016 --> 00:02:13,727 they're upset why people don't go up 20 00:02:13,728 --> 00:02:15,903 and rescue people 21 00:02:15,904 --> 00:02:20,863 in this dreadful environment. 22 00:02:20,864 --> 00:02:23,774 Where you likely will be killed 23 00:02:23,775 --> 00:02:25,948 by doing so. 24 00:02:27,743 --> 00:02:30,750 There will be things we never will know, 25 00:02:30,751 --> 00:02:33,405 but the question you should ask yourself. 26 00:02:33,406 --> 00:02:35,852 "What would you do?" 27 00:02:38,590 --> 00:02:46,670 What happened that summer remains a mystery even for the survivors. 28 00:02:47,070 --> 00:02:49,405 Mind you, K2 climbers, huh? 29 00:02:49,406 --> 00:02:50,717 This is unbelievable. 30 00:02:50,718 --> 00:02:52,477 There's Nanga. 31 00:02:52,478 --> 00:02:53,437 K2? 32 00:02:53,438 --> 00:02:54,397 Nanga. Nanga. 33 00:02:54,398 --> 00:02:55,357 Nanga Parbat. 34 00:02:55,358 --> 00:02:57,212 - Yeah. - Oh, my God. 35 00:02:57,213 --> 00:03:00,060 And then we'll show you K2, your destination, okay? 36 00:03:00,061 --> 00:03:01,938 We're on our way in. 37 00:03:14,044 --> 00:03:16,123 - Up there. - Yeah? 38 00:03:16,124 --> 00:03:17,159 Whoop! 39 00:03:41,201 --> 00:03:42,490 You're gonna have to run this bit 40 00:03:42,491 --> 00:03:43,450 'cause there's rockfall. 41 00:03:43,451 --> 00:03:44,410 Really? 42 00:03:44,411 --> 00:03:45,685 Yeah, they've been running it. 43 00:03:46,939 --> 00:03:48,025 Go. Go. Go. 44 00:03:48,026 --> 00:03:51,166 Shit. 45 00:04:26,936 --> 00:04:28,279 It's good to be back here, 46 00:04:28,280 --> 00:04:32,092 and it's nice to wake up to this sight this morning. 47 00:04:34,150 --> 00:04:41,169 This summer, 15 expeditions with over 70 mountaineers set out to climb the second highest peak on earth. 48 00:04:48,183 --> 00:04:51,702 It's my belief that everybody has the love of climbing. 49 00:04:51,703 --> 00:04:53,334 You know, the first thing a child Wants to do 50 00:04:53,335 --> 00:04:54,838 is climb something. 51 00:04:54,839 --> 00:04:56,822 The art of rock climbing is relearning 52 00:04:56,823 --> 00:05:00,100 what you knew intuitively as a child. 53 00:05:01,334 --> 00:05:03,253 You get such a big respect for this mountain 54 00:05:03,254 --> 00:05:05,301 and all the climbers who did it before you. 55 00:05:05,302 --> 00:05:09,333 If you want to have a nice story on the birthday parties, 56 00:05:09,334 --> 00:05:10,836 you know, you climb Everest, 57 00:05:10,837 --> 00:05:14,036 but K2 is really, I think, for the real mountaineers. 58 00:05:14,037 --> 00:05:15,796 - Hello! - Hello. 59 00:05:15,797 --> 00:05:16,756 How are you? 60 00:05:16,757 --> 00:05:17,861 Good. 61 00:05:25,109 --> 00:05:26,612 Pretty good view, I reckon. 62 00:05:26,613 --> 00:05:29,396 I think it's pretty hard to beat, actually. 63 00:05:29,397 --> 00:05:33,011 There is quite different between people from Himalaya 64 00:05:33,012 --> 00:05:35,251 and from Western world. 65 00:05:35,252 --> 00:05:37,779 It's quite different, because the Western people, 66 00:05:37,780 --> 00:05:40,147 they are more adventurer. 67 00:05:40,148 --> 00:05:42,771 They love more adventure. 68 00:05:42,772 --> 00:05:45,683 Our people also like adventure, 69 00:05:45,684 --> 00:05:48,211 but they love climbing. 70 00:05:48,212 --> 00:05:49,715 Where are we? 71 00:05:49,716 --> 00:05:52,018 Oh, we are now climbing K2. 72 00:05:52,019 --> 00:05:52,978 All right. 73 00:05:52,979 --> 00:05:54,770 Yes. 74 00:05:54,771 --> 00:05:56,370 The first man to climb K2 75 00:05:56,371 --> 00:06:00,401 was from my valley, Achille Compagnoni. 76 00:06:00,402 --> 00:06:05,408 So K2 is our mountain. 77 00:06:08,658 --> 00:06:10,417 Everything is raw. 78 00:06:10,418 --> 00:06:11,761 It's glaciers. 79 00:06:11,762 --> 00:06:14,353 It's black mountains. 80 00:06:14,354 --> 00:06:16,881 It fills you with respect. 81 00:06:16,882 --> 00:06:20,989 K2 is absolutely the king. 82 00:06:24,274 --> 00:06:28,816 The higher it gets, the more interesting it gets. 83 00:06:28,817 --> 00:06:33,616 So when it comes to climbing 8,000-meter peaks, 84 00:06:33,617 --> 00:06:34,959 you want to do it, 85 00:06:34,960 --> 00:06:38,287 but at the same time, you have this fear. 86 00:06:38,288 --> 00:06:39,728 This is serious. 87 00:06:39,729 --> 00:06:41,208 This is for real. 88 00:06:42,288 --> 00:06:45,997 If you make one step wrong, you're history. 89 00:06:53,264 --> 00:06:55,566 Finally here. Such a relief. 90 00:06:55,567 --> 00:06:57,519 Fantastic job. 91 00:06:57,520 --> 00:06:59,150 Good job. 92 00:06:59,151 --> 00:07:01,230 Let's get the tents up, the stoves going, 93 00:07:01,231 --> 00:07:02,990 and prepare for tonight. 94 00:07:02,991 --> 00:07:04,206 Good? 95 00:07:04,207 --> 00:07:05,447 Yes. 96 00:07:06,703 --> 00:07:08,942 For three months, we were on this expedition, 97 00:07:08,943 --> 00:07:12,941 so when we reached Camp Four, it was already a magic moment. 98 00:07:12,942 --> 00:07:16,082 The whole Earth is beside you. 99 00:07:17,294 --> 00:07:18,925 And then you look behind you. 100 00:07:18,926 --> 00:07:20,735 You see another mountain. 101 00:07:22,318 --> 00:07:24,457 And that's K2. It's a mountain on a mountain. 102 00:07:25,325 --> 00:07:27,085 Ger was coming. I was filming. 103 00:07:27,086 --> 00:07:29,772 I was asking Ger, "How are you feeling?" 104 00:07:29,773 --> 00:07:31,650 And, you know, he was almost crying. 105 00:07:32,557 --> 00:07:35,788 Ah, so happy to be here, 106 00:07:35,789 --> 00:07:38,412 I could almost cry. 107 00:07:38,413 --> 00:07:42,124 '06, we failed to get here. 108 00:07:42,125 --> 00:07:43,628 Here we are now, 109 00:07:43,629 --> 00:07:46,187 and it's wonderful. 110 00:07:46,188 --> 00:07:48,267 You could hear his voice, you know. 111 00:07:48,268 --> 00:07:50,379 "It's something what we already achieved," you know? 112 00:07:50,380 --> 00:07:51,692 "It's already something." 113 00:07:51,693 --> 00:07:53,195 That's what he said. 114 00:08:04,843 --> 00:08:06,443 We had a brilliant night. 115 00:08:06,444 --> 00:08:07,530 There were no clouds. 116 00:08:07,531 --> 00:08:09,067 There was nothing. 117 00:08:12,235 --> 00:08:13,942 And then we went to the summit. 118 00:08:22,200 --> 00:08:28,200 In the early hours of August 1, 25 climbers set out from Camp Four to the summit of K2. 119 00:08:30,442 --> 00:08:31,721 - Are you afraid? - No. 120 00:08:31,722 --> 00:08:32,681 - No? - I am. 121 00:08:32,682 --> 00:08:34,559 - No. - I'm scared to death. 122 00:08:38,762 --> 00:08:42,952 It felt, overall, like... like this was our day. 123 00:08:42,953 --> 00:08:47,080 So we moved up along the slopes above Four. 124 00:08:47,081 --> 00:08:49,160 Fred and I started out a little more slowly. 125 00:08:49,161 --> 00:08:53,439 Both of us felt really strong, very positive. 126 00:08:54,408 --> 00:08:55,688 There were perfect conditions. 127 00:08:55,689 --> 00:08:59,623 I mean, we're talking about a day in a million. 128 00:08:59,624 --> 00:09:03,559 There wasn't a day like this that I can remember, 129 00:09:03,560 --> 00:09:06,097 because it was warm. 130 00:09:08,264 --> 00:09:12,679 Starting to get light enough to see the route up ahead. 131 00:09:12,680 --> 00:09:14,023 And I'm looking up, 132 00:09:14,024 --> 00:09:16,455 seeing a tightly spaced group of climbers 133 00:09:16,456 --> 00:09:19,062 moving extremely slowly. 134 00:09:20,968 --> 00:09:22,208 They're not moving. 135 00:09:23,111 --> 00:09:24,920 What are they doing? 136 00:09:25,895 --> 00:09:30,401 We are way back in time. 137 00:09:32,775 --> 00:09:34,917 We are really late. 138 00:09:34,918 --> 00:09:37,509 I don't know what the fuck we're gonna do. 139 00:09:37,510 --> 00:09:39,333 Very disappointing. 140 00:09:39,334 --> 00:09:42,629 I was so devastated. 141 00:09:42,630 --> 00:09:45,797 You put in so much effort for months, 142 00:09:45,798 --> 00:09:49,797 and then you just realize that there is no way 143 00:09:49,798 --> 00:09:51,940 that we're gonna be able to summit 144 00:09:51,941 --> 00:09:54,888 and come back down in daylight. 145 00:09:56,517 --> 00:09:57,604 We just went down. 146 00:09:57,605 --> 00:09:59,380 It was simple as that. 147 00:10:05,157 --> 00:10:08,483 Everybody thinks that coming down is the easy bit. 148 00:10:08,484 --> 00:10:10,276 It makes sense, 149 00:10:10,277 --> 00:10:13,315 but don't believe it for one minute. 150 00:10:18,884 --> 00:10:22,147 I went up in '54 for my country, 151 00:10:22,148 --> 00:10:23,354 for Italy. 152 00:10:24,451 --> 00:10:27,618 At the time, it seems like suicide. 153 00:10:27,619 --> 00:10:31,650 No one knew what would happen to a human body or mind 154 00:10:31,651 --> 00:10:33,858 at that altitude. 155 00:10:35,619 --> 00:10:38,529 They tested us in a ridiculous manner 156 00:10:38,530 --> 00:10:40,289 for months. 157 00:10:40,290 --> 00:10:41,291 I didn't care. 158 00:10:43,042 --> 00:10:46,625 Of the 11 climbers chosen for the K2 expedition, 159 00:10:46,626 --> 00:10:50,631 I, Walter Bonatti, was the youngest. 160 00:10:53,218 --> 00:10:55,789 I should have died on K2. 161 00:10:57,314 --> 00:11:00,193 But the thing that was to affect me most profoundly 162 00:11:00,194 --> 00:11:02,140 was after the climb. 163 00:11:04,130 --> 00:11:06,269 It was the story. 164 00:11:20,224 --> 00:11:22,207 Many of the other climbers there had been on Everest 165 00:11:22,208 --> 00:11:25,631 or other... other 8,000-ers before K2. 166 00:11:25,632 --> 00:11:29,599 I hadn't been higher than 6,200. 167 00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:33,810 I just wanted to come along to see how high I could get. 168 00:11:35,200 --> 00:11:37,214 When we finally got to the bottleneck, 169 00:11:37,215 --> 00:11:40,059 there's actually a- a traffic jam. 170 00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:52,780 At an altitude of 8,200 meters is the Bottleneck - a narrow corridor under a massive ice overhang, called a Serac. 171 00:11:57,726 --> 00:12:00,509 The serac was the main danger. 172 00:12:00,510 --> 00:12:03,901 It's probably almost 100 meters high, 173 00:12:03,902 --> 00:12:06,396 slightly overhanging. 174 00:12:06,397 --> 00:12:08,070 And it could crack any time. 175 00:12:12,253 --> 00:12:16,988 This very, very delicate place 176 00:12:16,989 --> 00:12:18,492 is notorious. 177 00:12:18,493 --> 00:12:20,635 Ice can drop at any time. 178 00:12:20,636 --> 00:12:21,947 It's a Russian roulette. 179 00:12:21,948 --> 00:12:23,723 That's what it is. 180 00:12:25,084 --> 00:12:27,900 The main tactic to avoid the dangers of the serac 181 00:12:27,901 --> 00:12:29,468 is to be fast, 182 00:12:29,469 --> 00:12:32,667 to minimize the time when you're exposed to it. 183 00:12:32,668 --> 00:12:35,740 It was not with a good feeling, waiting there. 184 00:12:37,276 --> 00:12:41,050 We had a lot of respect for the serac, yeah. 185 00:12:41,051 --> 00:12:44,026 We knew that that was a... 186 00:12:44,027 --> 00:12:47,065 A little monster up there. 187 00:12:47,710 --> 00:12:54,610 The climbers use ice screws to attach fixed ropes along the Bottleneck and for a 300-meter traverse below the Serac. 188 00:12:54,619 --> 00:12:59,129 I put the ice screws in... 189 00:12:59,130 --> 00:13:01,017 You've got a lot of people coming behind 190 00:13:01,018 --> 00:13:04,857 with all the weight that's on the rope, 191 00:13:04,858 --> 00:13:07,705 that's pulling on the screws. 192 00:13:07,706 --> 00:13:09,879 Well, that was a worry. 193 00:13:11,482 --> 00:13:16,505 Above 8,000, you can only trust yourself. 194 00:13:16,506 --> 00:13:17,913 We wanted to traverse out to the right 195 00:13:17,914 --> 00:13:21,528 to have a rest outside of the fixed ropes. 196 00:13:21,529 --> 00:13:24,536 It's exhausting to be in a queue to wait. 197 00:13:24,537 --> 00:13:26,448 You can't climb in your own pace. 198 00:13:27,545 --> 00:13:29,751 Several others also wanted to wait there 199 00:13:29,752 --> 00:13:31,959 until people had passed. 200 00:13:35,608 --> 00:13:37,239 The bigger the chain, 201 00:13:37,240 --> 00:13:39,095 the bigger the chance 202 00:13:39,096 --> 00:13:41,431 that there is somebody in this chain 203 00:13:41,432 --> 00:13:44,345 who is, you know, making a mistake. 204 00:13:46,616 --> 00:13:50,359 Dren, he unclipped his rope and tried to pass me. 205 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:52,995 Aah! 206 00:14:12,342 --> 00:14:14,037 We were all shocked when he fell, 207 00:14:14,038 --> 00:14:16,757 but when he stopped, he stood up and waved. 208 00:14:16,758 --> 00:14:18,389 So we thought he was fine. 209 00:14:18,390 --> 00:14:19,861 He's standing up. 210 00:14:19,862 --> 00:14:20,885 He's okay. 211 00:14:20,886 --> 00:14:23,189 But then we saw him falling again 212 00:14:23,190 --> 00:14:27,366 and sliding further down. 213 00:14:28,277 --> 00:14:29,972 Yeah, right there at the edge. 214 00:14:29,973 --> 00:14:30,973 - Yeah. - Yeah. 215 00:14:32,053 --> 00:14:35,092 - What's happening? - What do you see? 216 00:14:35,093 --> 00:14:37,812 Yeah, Chhiring, this is Eric, Camp Four, over. 217 00:14:37,813 --> 00:14:40,468 I picked up my camera, and I zoomed in, 218 00:14:40,469 --> 00:14:42,710 trying to find him, locate him. 219 00:14:44,565 --> 00:14:47,923 How can someone fall at this perfect day? 220 00:14:47,924 --> 00:14:49,459 No wind. It's bright. 221 00:14:49,460 --> 00:14:51,123 It's great. 222 00:14:51,124 --> 00:14:53,171 How is it possible? 223 00:14:53,172 --> 00:14:55,315 Chhiring, I understood 224 00:14:55,316 --> 00:14:57,939 that you and Pemba are climbing. 225 00:14:57,940 --> 00:15:00,850 Are you in the lead, and has there been an accident? 226 00:15:00,851 --> 00:15:01,970 Over. 227 00:15:01,971 --> 00:15:04,274 Is he in the rock? 228 00:15:04,275 --> 00:15:06,706 He's here. 229 00:15:06,707 --> 00:15:07,986 There is the rock. 230 00:15:07,987 --> 00:15:08,946 - Yeah. - Down. 231 00:15:08,947 --> 00:15:10,002 - Yeah. - Down this. 232 00:15:10,003 --> 00:15:12,402 - Yeah. - Chhiring says he's moving. 233 00:15:12,403 --> 00:15:13,714 Wow. 234 00:15:13,715 --> 00:15:16,146 He's still alive. 235 00:15:16,147 --> 00:15:17,617 We have to do something. 236 00:15:17,618 --> 00:15:19,153 Is everybody coming down? 237 00:15:19,154 --> 00:15:21,681 Ask the question. 238 00:15:21,682 --> 00:15:23,345 Chhiring, do you know if... if everyone 239 00:15:23,346 --> 00:15:24,881 is coming down at this point? 240 00:15:24,882 --> 00:15:26,327 Over. 241 00:15:31,794 --> 00:15:34,288 Of course, we had a discussion. 242 00:15:34,289 --> 00:15:38,096 Should we turn around, you know, to try to help? 243 00:15:38,097 --> 00:15:39,952 We talked about it, and then we said, 244 00:15:39,953 --> 00:15:42,256 "Listen. The Serbian guys are going down." 245 00:15:42,257 --> 00:15:44,048 "We know the Americans are there, you know." 246 00:15:44,049 --> 00:15:46,757 "I think it doesn't make sense, you know, to go down." 247 00:15:50,033 --> 00:15:53,520 There is a not big conversation 248 00:15:53,521 --> 00:15:56,832 each other about the accident. 249 00:16:02,416 --> 00:16:04,239 After three, four minutes, 250 00:16:04,240 --> 00:16:06,242 they start climbing again. 251 00:16:14,254 --> 00:16:15,694 I was like, "I'm gonna save this guy." 252 00:16:15,695 --> 00:16:16,782 "I'm gonna save him." 253 00:16:16,783 --> 00:16:18,254 "There's no way he's gonna die," 254 00:16:18,255 --> 00:16:20,942 "not this day, no way." 255 00:16:20,943 --> 00:16:22,702 "It's not gonna happen." 256 00:16:22,703 --> 00:16:25,149 I just shoot up. 257 00:16:30,894 --> 00:16:33,902 He hit on the rock, lose control, 258 00:16:33,903 --> 00:16:36,205 keep falling for 200 more meters, 259 00:16:36,206 --> 00:16:37,197 and stopped. 260 00:16:37,198 --> 00:16:39,693 And then I started coming down. 261 00:16:39,694 --> 00:16:41,197 There were maybe two guys below me, 262 00:16:41,198 --> 00:16:45,869 so I came down pretty fast, maybe 'IO minutes. 263 00:16:45,870 --> 00:16:48,364 He was wrapped in rope 264 00:16:48,365 --> 00:16:51,372 and just giving no signs of life. 265 00:16:51,373 --> 00:16:56,716 Already very pale and gray, 266 00:16:56,717 --> 00:17:01,068 cuts on the head, black nose, broken, 267 00:17:01,069 --> 00:17:02,188 blood from mouth. 268 00:17:02,189 --> 00:17:03,725 - Finish. - Totally finished, almost. 269 00:17:16,043 --> 00:17:17,739 If I knew that Dren was dead, 270 00:17:17,740 --> 00:17:19,151 I would not have gone up. 271 00:17:24,268 --> 00:17:25,802 The Serbians, they want to take him 272 00:17:25,803 --> 00:17:27,242 down to base camp. 273 00:17:27,243 --> 00:17:29,450 I said that that's impossible. 274 00:17:29,451 --> 00:17:31,178 "What we can do is that we can" 275 00:17:31,179 --> 00:17:33,354 "at least bring him down to Camp Four" 276 00:17:33,355 --> 00:17:35,767 "and give him a proper burial there." 277 00:17:36,906 --> 00:17:39,305 Honestly, what's the point of lowering a body 278 00:17:39,306 --> 00:17:42,753 from 8,150 meters to 7,800? 279 00:17:46,153 --> 00:17:49,449 8,000 meter, you're in the death zone. 280 00:17:49,450 --> 00:17:51,657 Every step is a burden. 281 00:17:51,658 --> 00:17:55,464 But when you have a dead body, it's a hell of a load. 282 00:17:55,465 --> 00:17:57,865 Okay, we have to go down like this, guys. 283 00:17:57,866 --> 00:17:59,272 - Yeah, yeah, yeah. - Whoop. 284 00:17:59,273 --> 00:18:01,257 You have to stay not so close. 285 00:18:01,258 --> 00:18:02,280 Yes. 286 00:18:02,281 --> 00:18:04,680 If you do fall, you release, okay? 287 00:18:04,681 --> 00:18:07,879 It's-it's-it's- it's our lives too, okay? 288 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:09,288 - Yeah, yeah. - Remember. 289 00:18:09,289 --> 00:18:11,623 Jehan Baig, from Pakistan, 290 00:18:11,624 --> 00:18:14,537 suddenly started acting really weird. 291 00:18:17,096 --> 00:18:19,207 He's coming down on my right side, 292 00:18:19,208 --> 00:18:20,551 holding onto the rope, 293 00:18:20,552 --> 00:18:23,111 which goes around my lower legs, 294 00:18:23,112 --> 00:18:24,198 and we are crying out... 295 00:18:24,199 --> 00:18:25,831 Release the rope! 296 00:18:25,832 --> 00:18:27,243 Release the rope! 297 00:18:33,095 --> 00:18:36,838 He did not make one single move to stop his fall. 298 00:18:36,839 --> 00:18:38,566 Jesus Christ. 299 00:18:38,567 --> 00:18:40,486 Instead, he just let go, 300 00:18:40,487 --> 00:18:42,502 and he shoots off like a rocket 301 00:18:42,503 --> 00:18:44,230 straight out to the open air 302 00:18:44,231 --> 00:18:46,802 and just disappears. 303 00:18:54,982 --> 00:18:56,965 Oh, K2, 304 00:18:56,966 --> 00:18:59,972 it was full of surprises. 305 00:18:59,973 --> 00:19:03,716 The conquest in '54 was much more complicated 306 00:19:03,717 --> 00:19:06,852 than we could ever have imagined. 307 00:19:06,853 --> 00:19:09,956 But believe me, we came prepared. 308 00:19:09,957 --> 00:19:12,484 We were 11 climbers. 309 00:19:12,485 --> 00:19:17,251 With us, 13 Hunzas and a battalion of Balti, 310 00:19:17,252 --> 00:19:20,516 the humble, extraordinary local porters. 311 00:19:20,517 --> 00:19:22,819 After endless months of preparation, 312 00:19:22,820 --> 00:19:26,947 it began with a fantastic march to the foot of the peak 313 00:19:26,948 --> 00:19:29,622 through an exotic, timeless landscape. 314 00:19:39,683 --> 00:19:44,450 We laid siege to the mountain for two grueling months. 315 00:19:44,451 --> 00:19:46,082 We established base camp 316 00:19:46,083 --> 00:19:48,290 and then started building camps 317 00:19:48,291 --> 00:19:50,434 all the way up the mountain, 318 00:19:50,435 --> 00:19:54,241 acclimatizing our bodies to the altitude, 319 00:19:54,242 --> 00:19:56,450 the unknown, 320 00:19:56,451 --> 00:19:59,074 preparing ourselves for the summit attempt- 321 00:19:59,075 --> 00:20:01,783 anything to help us survive. 322 00:20:13,345 --> 00:20:17,152 In memory of Art Gilkey, Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kitar. 323 00:20:17,153 --> 00:20:20,384 1954. Unbelievable. 324 00:20:20,385 --> 00:20:22,400 '94. 325 00:20:22,401 --> 00:20:23,552 There are many people 326 00:20:23,553 --> 00:20:25,344 who just died on their way down from the summit. 327 00:20:25,345 --> 00:20:26,304 Yeah. 328 00:20:26,305 --> 00:20:28,928 Dying on... died on descent. 329 00:20:28,929 --> 00:20:31,679 Almost on everyone you can read it, 330 00:20:31,680 --> 00:20:32,639 "Died on descent." 331 00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:34,079 Yeah. 332 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,821 Here's the original cross. 333 00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:49,740 One of the climbers attempting to climb K2, dies. 334 00:20:55,711 --> 00:20:57,950 Everybody saying, all Western people, 335 00:20:57,951 --> 00:21:00,669 even our Sherpa community, 336 00:21:00,670 --> 00:21:03,293 they say to me, "Why are you going on K2?" 337 00:21:03,294 --> 00:21:06,301 "Because it is too dangerous" 338 00:21:06,302 --> 00:21:10,653 "and the accident rate is too high." 339 00:21:10,654 --> 00:21:12,361 "Why you are going there?" 340 00:21:25,629 --> 00:21:27,612 If you climb on K2, you have to trust each other. 341 00:21:27,613 --> 00:21:29,244 Fully for 200%. 342 00:21:29,245 --> 00:21:30,492 Gerard said, "Hey, listen." 343 00:21:30,493 --> 00:21:33,692 "It would be lovely if I can bring Pemba." 344 00:21:33,693 --> 00:21:35,708 And Pemba is a Sherpa, 345 00:21:35,709 --> 00:21:37,819 but a lot of people are thinking about a Sherpa 346 00:21:37,820 --> 00:21:40,187 that he's just an ordinary guy 347 00:21:40,188 --> 00:21:42,715 who is bringing up stuff up the mountain. 348 00:21:42,716 --> 00:21:46,139 But Pemba was a really... 349 00:21:46,140 --> 00:21:47,675 a different guy, you know? 350 00:21:47,676 --> 00:21:49,915 He was a professional climber like we were. 351 00:21:49,916 --> 00:21:51,546 You had a good trip, Pemba? 352 00:21:51,547 --> 00:21:53,051 Yeah, yeah. 353 00:21:53,052 --> 00:21:54,426 - Fantastic. - What's your question? 354 00:21:54,427 --> 00:21:56,346 Do we have boil-in-the-bag rice? 355 00:21:56,347 --> 00:21:57,818 Take care of it. 356 00:21:57,819 --> 00:21:59,226 You know, yeah, it's the one thing 357 00:21:59,227 --> 00:22:00,954 that I'm concerned about is that Pemba 358 00:22:00,955 --> 00:22:02,992 mightn't be too used to freeze-dried food. 359 00:22:04,219 --> 00:22:06,266 Oh, no, but we have the original rice too. 360 00:22:06,267 --> 00:22:07,513 - Yeah. - Yeah. 361 00:22:07,514 --> 00:22:08,890 Action. 362 00:22:08,891 --> 00:22:09,914 Hey. 363 00:22:09,915 --> 00:22:12,313 I found a good companion in Gerard. 364 00:22:12,314 --> 00:22:15,865 He was a climber who had the same ambitions as me. 365 00:22:15,866 --> 00:22:17,433 Then you are pushing the limits, 366 00:22:17,434 --> 00:22:19,385 you know, higher and, yeah, 367 00:22:19,386 --> 00:22:22,553 and then it ends up in the Himalaya. 368 00:22:22,554 --> 00:22:23,576 Whoa! 369 00:22:23,577 --> 00:22:24,921 - Hey. - Whoo! 370 00:22:24,922 --> 00:22:26,595 Hey! 371 00:22:29,082 --> 00:22:31,033 Ger was a very qualified climber, 372 00:22:31,034 --> 00:22:32,505 and next to that, 373 00:22:32,506 --> 00:22:34,296 he is a very social boy, 374 00:22:34,297 --> 00:22:38,336 more-more social then the average climber. 375 00:22:45,368 --> 00:22:48,120 The most important thing for all of these expeditions 376 00:22:48,121 --> 00:22:49,944 is to have a good time 377 00:22:49,945 --> 00:22:51,925 and have a good laugh with your friends. 378 00:22:54,840 --> 00:22:55,840 Thank you. 379 00:22:57,880 --> 00:23:00,119 There's two people I've met in my life 380 00:23:00,120 --> 00:23:01,495 who could walk in a room 381 00:23:01,496 --> 00:23:04,662 and fundamentally change the energy in a room, 382 00:23:04,663 --> 00:23:06,643 and Ger McDonnell was one of them. 383 00:23:09,303 --> 00:23:13,142 He did lots of things, and he did it 150%, 384 00:23:13,143 --> 00:23:14,884 anything he chose to do. 385 00:23:21,334 --> 00:23:24,277 I had my sights set on climbing Denali, 386 00:23:24,278 --> 00:23:26,485 and Denali is the tallest mountain 387 00:23:26,486 --> 00:23:28,021 in North America. 388 00:23:28,022 --> 00:23:32,971 I was curious how I would react to the altitude. 389 00:23:37,590 --> 00:23:39,934 Me and Mike up at top. 390 00:23:44,533 --> 00:23:45,978 Minus 20. 391 00:23:47,061 --> 00:23:48,276 Denali had 392 00:23:48,277 --> 00:23:53,351 that kind of certain mystic, magical power over Ger. 393 00:23:56,148 --> 00:23:58,675 That was the start of the- the big boys, 394 00:23:58,676 --> 00:23:59,711 the big climbs. 395 00:24:03,124 --> 00:24:06,419 2003, I was the expedition leader 396 00:24:06,420 --> 00:24:08,275 on Mount Everest. 397 00:24:08,276 --> 00:24:09,311 We had a small team. 398 00:24:10,291 --> 00:24:11,506 Ger, he had a huge passion, 399 00:24:11,507 --> 00:24:12,787 and he burst full of energy. 400 00:24:12,788 --> 00:24:14,003 Ireland! 401 00:24:14,004 --> 00:24:15,475 My Ireland. 402 00:24:15,476 --> 00:24:18,898 He knew how dangerous, actually, mountaineering was. 403 00:24:18,899 --> 00:24:20,722 He knew over 8,000 meters, 404 00:24:20,723 --> 00:24:22,738 it's not called "death zone" for nothing. 405 00:24:22,739 --> 00:24:25,554 Every blood cell in your body is being deprived of oxygen, 406 00:24:25,555 --> 00:24:27,730 which numbs your brain cells. 407 00:24:27,731 --> 00:24:30,578 Making logical decisions become harder. 408 00:24:30,579 --> 00:24:33,393 The longer that you're up at high altitude, 409 00:24:33,394 --> 00:24:35,697 the more prone you are to your whole body 410 00:24:35,698 --> 00:24:37,458 disintegrating from inside. 411 00:24:37,459 --> 00:24:38,577 It creates mucus. 412 00:24:38,578 --> 00:24:39,953 It creates fluids. 413 00:24:39,954 --> 00:24:43,024 It actually starts to swell the brain, the lungs, 414 00:24:43,025 --> 00:24:45,198 till, eventually, you won't survive. 415 00:24:47,346 --> 00:24:49,744 Within high-altitude mountaineering, 416 00:24:49,745 --> 00:24:51,760 there is an unwritten code. 417 00:24:51,761 --> 00:24:54,160 If it's a case that someone is dying, 418 00:24:54,161 --> 00:24:56,944 and you know you're gonna put your own life at risk, 419 00:24:56,945 --> 00:24:57,980 you should leave them. 420 00:25:00,048 --> 00:25:02,735 This 8,000-meter stuff was alien to me at this point, 421 00:25:02,736 --> 00:25:05,114 so I was just following direction, you know. 422 00:25:07,376 --> 00:25:09,584 Descending, Pat was in a bad way 423 00:25:09,585 --> 00:25:12,624 and seemed to be moving exceptionally slowly 424 00:25:12,625 --> 00:25:14,351 and stopping to rest. 425 00:25:14,352 --> 00:25:18,095 And when I saw the look on Pat's face... 426 00:25:21,775 --> 00:25:24,483 ah, shit. 427 00:25:25,679 --> 00:25:27,246 I was getting pulmonary edema, 428 00:25:27,247 --> 00:25:29,774 cerebral edema, thrombosis. 429 00:25:29,775 --> 00:25:33,018 I was being deprived of oxygen, and I started to die. 430 00:25:34,127 --> 00:25:37,006 There was... there was no energy there. 431 00:25:37,007 --> 00:25:41,581 And more than a lack of energy, there's... 432 00:25:41,582 --> 00:25:43,405 actually, I think there was an awareness 433 00:25:43,406 --> 00:25:44,910 of a lack of energy, 434 00:25:44,911 --> 00:25:47,117 and I think there was also a knowledge 435 00:25:47,118 --> 00:25:49,805 that he knew that himself that he was in trouble. 436 00:25:49,806 --> 00:25:53,037 Pemba Gyalje and, in particular, Ger 437 00:25:53,038 --> 00:25:56,076 were the people that were encouraging me down. 438 00:25:56,077 --> 00:25:58,189 Yay! 439 00:25:58,190 --> 00:26:01,132 If my team members hadn't helped on that day, 440 00:26:01,133 --> 00:26:03,501 I may very well myself 441 00:26:03,502 --> 00:26:07,500 be encrusted onto the rocks of Mount Everest for eternity, 442 00:26:07,501 --> 00:26:10,345 never to come back home to see my family. 443 00:26:14,861 --> 00:26:16,651 They say that the most important thing 444 00:26:16,652 --> 00:26:17,740 when you go climbing 445 00:26:17,741 --> 00:26:20,619 will be to select a good climbing partner 446 00:26:20,620 --> 00:26:22,699 or somebody that you're compatible with. 447 00:26:22,700 --> 00:26:26,170 I've been... I've been lucky, you know, really. 448 00:26:29,323 --> 00:26:31,627 There's Speedy Gonzales, 449 00:26:31,628 --> 00:26:34,302 Mr. Pemba Gyalje. 450 00:26:36,107 --> 00:26:40,714 Pemba was the one person Ger wanted to climb K2 with, 451 00:26:40,715 --> 00:26:43,850 and they talked about it for years and years. 452 00:26:43,851 --> 00:26:46,314 He loved mountaineering. He knew he could do it. 453 00:26:46,315 --> 00:26:48,425 He loved that mountain. 454 00:26:48,426 --> 00:26:50,770 Ger wanted to climb K2. 455 00:26:54,794 --> 00:26:55,794 Is he in the rock? 456 00:26:56,938 --> 00:26:58,569 Chhiring, do you know if everyone 457 00:26:58,570 --> 00:27:00,137 is coming down at this point? 458 00:27:00,138 --> 00:27:01,705 Over. 459 00:27:01,706 --> 00:27:04,617 When the accident happened, Gerard was also asking, 460 00:27:04,618 --> 00:27:07,497 "Do we have time enough to reach the summit, huh?" 461 00:27:07,498 --> 00:27:08,904 "Aren't we too late?" 462 00:27:08,905 --> 00:27:10,152 And Pemba said, "No, no." 463 00:27:10,153 --> 00:27:11,912 "We can just reach the summit." 464 00:27:11,913 --> 00:27:13,384 "There is time enough." 465 00:27:13,385 --> 00:27:14,472 And then we said, "Okay." 466 00:27:14,473 --> 00:27:17,000 "Then this is the decision, to move on." 467 00:27:17,001 --> 00:27:19,572 So we just moved on. 468 00:27:34,824 --> 00:27:37,382 We had a big Korean team ahead. 469 00:27:37,383 --> 00:27:39,079 Then you have your Norwegian guys, 470 00:27:39,080 --> 00:27:40,039 then us in the middle, 471 00:27:40,040 --> 00:27:42,567 with the Spanish guy in front. 472 00:27:42,568 --> 00:27:44,614 I carried on climbing. 473 00:27:44,615 --> 00:27:47,686 I didn't wait. 474 00:27:47,687 --> 00:27:52,102 I didn't see anyone else until I was going down. 475 00:27:58,279 --> 00:28:00,198 We were climbing, climbing, climbing, 476 00:28:00,199 --> 00:28:02,405 and then you see the first guys reaching the summit, 477 00:28:02,406 --> 00:28:03,365 and then you think, 478 00:28:03,366 --> 00:28:04,645 "Please let it be the end," 479 00:28:04,646 --> 00:28:07,461 you know, because you are really, completely, 480 00:28:07,462 --> 00:28:08,805 you know, exhausted. 481 00:28:12,966 --> 00:28:14,757 At the last moments, 482 00:28:14,758 --> 00:28:19,012 you really live it fully. 483 00:28:19,013 --> 00:28:21,092 I knew the summit was waiting for me. 484 00:28:21,093 --> 00:28:22,128 I had won it. 485 00:28:27,141 --> 00:28:29,553 Alberto was kind of a mythic figure. 486 00:28:30,501 --> 00:28:33,252 So I didn't see Alberto close up at all 487 00:28:33,253 --> 00:28:36,995 until I met him when he was on his way down. 488 00:28:36,996 --> 00:28:39,811 And then I asked him how far it was. 489 00:28:39,812 --> 00:28:43,316 And he said, "Yeah, a little less than an hour." 490 00:29:04,290 --> 00:29:06,690 One moment, you realize that it is in your reach. 491 00:29:06,691 --> 00:29:08,706 You're going to feel that you're going to make it. 492 00:29:08,707 --> 00:29:10,434 It's only a matter of time 493 00:29:10,435 --> 00:29:12,745 to keep on going to reach the summit. 494 00:29:35,489 --> 00:29:37,332 Yeah! 495 00:29:40,929 --> 00:29:44,536 Gerard, Gus, Pemba... 496 00:29:45,472 --> 00:29:46,943 Over. 497 00:29:46,944 --> 00:29:48,223 We're on the summit of K2! 498 00:29:48,224 --> 00:29:49,279 Whoo-hoo! 499 00:29:49,280 --> 00:29:51,935 Yo, yo, yo. 500 00:29:51,936 --> 00:29:57,119 The light was exceptional, brilliant, you know. 501 00:29:57,120 --> 00:30:00,095 We're at the end of the Earth, 502 00:30:00,096 --> 00:30:02,042 Heaven almost. 503 00:30:05,855 --> 00:30:07,774 You're thinking, you know, "This is it," you know? 504 00:30:07,775 --> 00:30:10,255 "It's over. We've done it." 505 00:30:21,406 --> 00:30:23,869 It is definitely a place of extremes, 506 00:30:23,870 --> 00:30:28,319 but with those extremes comes extreme beauty. 507 00:30:30,814 --> 00:30:33,181 In many ways, those very extremes, 508 00:30:33,182 --> 00:30:34,855 they're addictive. 509 00:30:42,493 --> 00:30:43,740 We were all very strong. 510 00:30:43,741 --> 00:30:45,852 We were normal talking. 511 00:30:45,853 --> 00:30:47,996 We didn't have problems with the altitude. 512 00:30:47,997 --> 00:30:49,787 We were feeling very good. 513 00:30:49,788 --> 00:30:52,155 We were having good moment on the summit, 514 00:30:52,156 --> 00:30:54,171 and now we are going down. 515 00:30:54,172 --> 00:30:55,355 Marco was coming up. 516 00:30:55,356 --> 00:30:57,019 He said, "Somebody has to take pictures of me." 517 00:30:57,020 --> 00:30:58,555 So I said, "Yeah, yeah, go up, up." 518 00:30:58,556 --> 00:31:00,092 "Quickly. Quickly." 519 00:31:04,156 --> 00:31:05,467 It was still clear. 520 00:31:05,468 --> 00:31:06,779 It wasn't dark yet. 521 00:31:06,780 --> 00:31:10,887 But the sun was going down. 522 00:31:14,203 --> 00:31:15,258 Then you realize, 523 00:31:15,259 --> 00:31:18,074 "Fuck, we have to go down," you know?" 524 00:31:18,075 --> 00:31:20,749 Now the surviving starts. 525 00:31:21,410 --> 00:31:30,010 18 climbers reached the summit of K2 that day. Only 11 of them survived the descent. 526 00:31:38,138 --> 00:31:40,025 President McAleese has said her thoughts 527 00:31:40,026 --> 00:31:42,457 are with the family of a County Limerick man 528 00:31:42,458 --> 00:31:43,736 who is among nine climbers 529 00:31:43,737 --> 00:31:45,337 missing and feared dead in the Himalayas. 530 00:31:45,338 --> 00:31:47,992 Icefall on the world's second highest peak 531 00:31:47,993 --> 00:31:51,160 that may have killed as many as a dozen climbers. 532 00:31:51,161 --> 00:31:52,600 With as many as a dozen of them were caught out 533 00:31:52,601 --> 00:31:54,135 in a collapse of an foe ledge 534 00:31:54,136 --> 00:31:55,351 just beneath the summit... 535 00:31:55,352 --> 00:31:57,623 Straddling the border of Pakistan and China, 536 00:31:57,624 --> 00:32:00,567 K2 is slightly smaller than Mount Everest, 537 00:32:00,568 --> 00:32:04,215 but its reputation has always been much larger. 538 00:32:04,216 --> 00:32:06,327 And another Pakistani, a French national, 539 00:32:06,328 --> 00:32:08,638 and an Austrian are missing. 540 00:32:10,232 --> 00:32:12,535 They summited on the Friday, Friday the 1st of August. 541 00:32:12,536 --> 00:32:15,191 I mean, come Saturday, 542 00:32:15,192 --> 00:32:17,263 just-the internet was rife with stories. 543 00:32:20,471 --> 00:32:21,815 You had the Fredrik Strang story 544 00:32:21,816 --> 00:32:23,991 about 'em pulling bodies off the mountain. 545 00:32:23,992 --> 00:32:27,414 One of the climbers, an American guy, Nick Rice, 546 00:32:27,415 --> 00:32:29,622 had his blog up on the Sunday, 547 00:32:29,623 --> 00:32:31,221 and he said that Ger 548 00:32:31,222 --> 00:32:33,397 refused to come down the mountain. 549 00:32:33,398 --> 00:32:36,085 I mean, he said, "Refused to come down the mountain." 550 00:32:36,086 --> 00:32:38,965 Anyone that knows Ger knew what Ger was about. 551 00:32:38,966 --> 00:32:42,357 Something wasn't right. 552 00:32:42,358 --> 00:32:45,620 Someone might throw some comment out on their blog 553 00:32:45,621 --> 00:32:47,477 about what they think might be happening 554 00:32:47,478 --> 00:32:50,101 or, you know, some rumor they heard 555 00:32:50,102 --> 00:32:51,765 and not realizing, like, 556 00:32:51,766 --> 00:32:56,820 "Hey, we are waiting for our loved ones." 557 00:32:56,821 --> 00:32:59,092 We're hanging on every single word 558 00:32:59,093 --> 00:33:01,204 and even how it's written 559 00:33:01,205 --> 00:33:05,119 to get some kind of clue of what was going on. 560 00:33:10,548 --> 00:33:13,267 Those guys are making big stories, 561 00:33:13,268 --> 00:33:15,443 even when the tragedy is still going on, 562 00:33:15,444 --> 00:33:16,723 actually, on the mountain. 563 00:33:16,724 --> 00:33:19,379 So coming down, you're a bit clumsy. 564 00:33:19,380 --> 00:33:21,203 It's... it's not a matter of... 565 00:33:21,204 --> 00:33:22,867 It's always the same. 566 00:33:22,868 --> 00:33:24,905 The real heroes, you don't hear. 567 00:33:28,244 --> 00:33:29,938 The stupid thing is, 568 00:33:29,939 --> 00:33:32,306 if we would have been successful, which we were, 569 00:33:32,307 --> 00:33:34,386 because we reached the summit, 570 00:33:34,387 --> 00:33:36,562 there was only such a small piece 571 00:33:36,563 --> 00:33:38,930 in the newspaper, you know? 572 00:33:38,931 --> 00:33:41,905 And now, because 11 climbers died, 573 00:33:41,906 --> 00:33:43,943 it went all over the world. 574 00:33:45,554 --> 00:33:50,003 Everybody wants to know how it was possible. 575 00:33:52,114 --> 00:33:53,841 What happened to us 576 00:33:53,842 --> 00:33:58,518 was just a matter of misfortune, you know? 577 00:34:00,497 --> 00:34:05,606 It was such a successful story till we went to the summit. 578 00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:09,580 MAY 2008 THREE MONTHS BEFORE THE ASCENSION 579 00:34:24,784 --> 00:34:27,471 We were the first expedition on the mountain. 580 00:34:27,472 --> 00:34:28,719 We had a beautiful time, 581 00:34:28,720 --> 00:34:31,151 because everything was really organized. 582 00:34:31,152 --> 00:34:32,111 We had good food. 583 00:34:32,112 --> 00:34:33,199 We had good cooks. 584 00:34:33,200 --> 00:34:36,113 Every detail was planned and organized. 585 00:34:40,304 --> 00:34:44,718 We are a very strong team compared to other expeditions. 586 00:34:44,719 --> 00:34:47,789 We were putting all of our fixed rope- 587 00:34:47,790 --> 00:34:51,054 everything we were doing by ourself. 588 00:34:51,055 --> 00:34:53,357 Bringing up those ropes to 8,000 meter, 589 00:34:53,358 --> 00:34:54,829 it's a hell of a job. 590 00:34:54,830 --> 00:34:57,326 The first four till five weeks, 591 00:34:57,327 --> 00:34:59,085 every day fixing the ropes 592 00:34:59,086 --> 00:35:01,965 100 meter by 100 meter by 100 meter, 593 00:35:01,966 --> 00:35:04,397 and then going back just by the rope, you know, 594 00:35:04,398 --> 00:35:06,378 going down to the base camp. 595 00:35:08,461 --> 00:35:11,148 Camp Two, base camp. Over. 596 00:35:11,149 --> 00:35:13,420 The snow conditions and the wind- 597 00:35:13,421 --> 00:35:16,748 Weather conditions- are also really bad for you. 598 00:35:16,749 --> 00:35:20,108 And maybe ifs a good idea 599 00:35:20,109 --> 00:35:23,051 to postpone the project one day. 600 00:35:23,052 --> 00:35:24,044 Over. 601 00:35:24,045 --> 00:35:26,891 No. Not possible. 602 00:35:26,892 --> 00:35:29,131 We have to be ready in July. 603 00:35:29,132 --> 00:35:31,915 We want to quit this expedition the end of July, 604 00:35:31,916 --> 00:35:35,295 because most of the accident happened in August. 605 00:35:36,908 --> 00:35:38,987 The humidity is getting bigger, you know? 606 00:35:38,988 --> 00:35:41,127 So more avalanche danger. 607 00:35:48,300 --> 00:35:49,482 But we said, "Okay." 608 00:35:49,483 --> 00:35:51,978 "We wants to go the end of July." 609 00:35:51,979 --> 00:35:54,653 That was the plan, and we were ahead of schedule. 610 00:35:57,962 --> 00:35:59,433 And in that period, 611 00:35:59,434 --> 00:36:02,921 all the other teams were arriving, 612 00:36:02,922 --> 00:36:04,266 the Koreans... 613 00:36:04,267 --> 00:36:05,769 - Good luck. - Very, very cold. 614 00:36:06,922 --> 00:36:08,010 The Americans... 615 00:36:08,011 --> 00:36:09,854 - It's the end of a hard day. - Yeah. 616 00:36:11,370 --> 00:36:13,417 The Serbian guys... 617 00:36:13,418 --> 00:36:15,465 - Peace. - Resting in peace? 618 00:36:15,466 --> 00:36:16,466 French guys... 619 00:36:18,025 --> 00:36:19,273 Perfect. 620 00:36:19,274 --> 00:36:21,545 And the Norwegian team. 621 00:36:21,546 --> 00:36:23,688 No, unfortunately not. 622 00:36:23,689 --> 00:36:27,144 There's a lot of different cultures up there, 623 00:36:27,145 --> 00:36:28,968 Sherpas from Nepal, 624 00:36:28,969 --> 00:36:31,944 high-altitude porters from Pakistan. 625 00:36:31,945 --> 00:36:34,448 There were different approaches to the climbing. 626 00:36:40,168 --> 00:36:41,543 The South Koreans 627 00:36:41,544 --> 00:36:46,391 are the main big, like, old-style, big expedition. 628 00:36:47,816 --> 00:36:52,199 Sherpas, oxygen, a lot of rope, and many camps. 629 00:36:52,200 --> 00:36:54,806 Yeah, beautiful day. 630 00:36:58,343 --> 00:36:59,430 The Norwegian expedition, 631 00:36:59,431 --> 00:37:03,590 we were only four friends on the trip 632 00:37:03,591 --> 00:37:04,763 trying to climb K2. 633 00:37:07,303 --> 00:37:08,710 Time to break out the whiskey, so... 634 00:37:08,711 --> 00:37:09,669 Yeah. 635 00:37:09,670 --> 00:37:12,934 Yeah, it's a good idea. 636 00:37:12,935 --> 00:37:13,936 I like whiskey. 637 00:37:14,886 --> 00:37:16,005 Gerard was visiting us a lot, 638 00:37:16,006 --> 00:37:18,565 and we visited them as well. 639 00:37:18,566 --> 00:37:22,053 And-and Ger and Rolf were friends. 640 00:37:22,054 --> 00:37:25,661 Both were the same kind of guys. 641 00:37:27,141 --> 00:37:29,893 When I met Rolf in 2003, 642 00:37:29,894 --> 00:37:34,741 I felt that I met a soul mate. 643 00:37:36,709 --> 00:37:41,715 In 2005, we went to K2 to try to get to know the mountain. 644 00:37:43,460 --> 00:37:46,243 We were there for 93 days. 645 00:37:46,244 --> 00:37:49,316 We only got to a little higher than Camp Three. 646 00:37:50,404 --> 00:37:52,644 So this time, I don't think we really thought 647 00:37:52,645 --> 00:37:55,091 that we were gonna get to the summit. 648 00:37:56,388 --> 00:37:58,851 Of course, you have to want that. 649 00:37:58,852 --> 00:38:01,458 Otherwise, you won't make it. 650 00:38:03,748 --> 00:38:09,096 But it's so much that has to be right for it to happen. 651 00:38:11,200 --> 00:38:14,400 JULY 13, 2008 THREE WEEKS BEFORE THE ASCENSION 652 00:38:17,570 --> 00:38:20,322 What went wrong was the weather. 653 00:38:20,323 --> 00:38:23,618 For three weeks, it was snowing, snowing, snowing. 654 00:38:23,619 --> 00:38:25,345 It was unbelievable. 655 00:38:25,346 --> 00:38:29,026 80% chance of snow today. 656 00:38:29,027 --> 00:38:32,768 Wind 8 kilometers at 8,000 meters. 657 00:38:32,769 --> 00:38:34,817 He was ready to come home. 658 00:38:34,818 --> 00:38:36,449 He said to me, 659 00:38:36,450 --> 00:38:38,369 "I can't wait to have a good meal" 660 00:38:38,370 --> 00:38:39,617 "and a glass of red wine." 661 00:38:39,618 --> 00:38:41,312 You know, he just... he was kind of ready. 662 00:38:41,313 --> 00:38:44,896 It was 60-something days by that point. 663 00:38:44,897 --> 00:38:47,639 But if you get a weather window, you take it. 664 00:38:57,856 --> 00:39:01,119 The end of July, the good weather came in, 665 00:39:01,120 --> 00:39:04,831 but then everybody wants to use this window. 666 00:39:04,832 --> 00:39:06,623 So we says, "Let's have a talk, you know," 667 00:39:06,624 --> 00:39:08,863 "and let's try to work together." 668 00:39:08,864 --> 00:39:10,783 300 rope for it to make. 669 00:39:10,784 --> 00:39:12,990 If you want to, more 50. 670 00:39:12,991 --> 00:39:16,438 400 rope, we are fixing. 671 00:39:18,015 --> 00:39:19,774 We take 400 meters. 672 00:39:19,775 --> 00:39:22,398 Then the Italians got 200 meters 673 00:39:22,399 --> 00:39:23,934 for the traverse. 674 00:39:23,935 --> 00:39:26,718 So 600 meters is plenty enough. 675 00:39:26,719 --> 00:39:28,797 Maybe we need more. 676 00:39:28,798 --> 00:39:30,013 We don't need more. 677 00:39:30,014 --> 00:39:32,029 600 meters is plenty enough, I think. 678 00:39:32,030 --> 00:39:33,565 No, 700 would be better. 679 00:39:33,566 --> 00:39:36,093 700? Okay, Kim says 700. 680 00:39:36,094 --> 00:39:37,789 We had a lot of meetings 681 00:39:37,790 --> 00:39:40,893 because if we are working together, let's be clear. 682 00:39:40,894 --> 00:39:42,461 We are with a lot of people. 683 00:39:42,462 --> 00:39:44,253 We share all the workloads. 684 00:39:44,254 --> 00:39:46,525 And, you know, 80% chance 685 00:39:46,526 --> 00:39:49,724 that we will get to the summit without any problem. 686 00:39:49,725 --> 00:39:52,508 First, leading, second, help them, 687 00:39:52,509 --> 00:39:54,716 third, making the bamboos. 688 00:39:54,717 --> 00:39:55,996 The ice? 689 00:39:55,997 --> 00:39:57,788 - Ice screw. - Ice crew? 690 00:39:57,789 --> 00:40:01,276 I always saw the base camp meetings 691 00:40:01,277 --> 00:40:04,571 as a vital key to success. 692 00:40:04,572 --> 00:40:07,803 It was our chance to get together 693 00:40:07,804 --> 00:40:09,979 and do this as one team. 694 00:40:09,980 --> 00:40:15,099 Not South Koreans, Americans, Serbians, Dutch- 695 00:40:15,100 --> 00:40:17,243 as one team. 696 00:40:17,244 --> 00:40:19,035 There is only one summit team... 697 00:40:19,036 --> 00:40:19,995 Yeah. 698 00:40:19,996 --> 00:40:21,914 From every group. 699 00:40:21,915 --> 00:40:22,970 The question is also, 700 00:40:22,971 --> 00:40:25,562 who is climbing in front, you know? 701 00:40:25,563 --> 00:40:26,650 We said, "Listen." 702 00:40:26,651 --> 00:40:30,042 "Every team gives his strongest climber," 703 00:40:30,043 --> 00:40:32,250 "and that's the trail-breaking party." 704 00:40:32,251 --> 00:40:36,314 Two good climbers and one, two porter... 705 00:40:36,315 --> 00:40:38,841 - Okay. - Who carry this fixed rope. 706 00:40:38,842 --> 00:40:39,897 Fixed rope. 707 00:40:39,898 --> 00:40:42,361 These teams start one or two hours 708 00:40:42,362 --> 00:40:45,690 before other member from Camp Four. 709 00:40:45,691 --> 00:40:47,033 - Okay. - Got it. 710 00:40:47,034 --> 00:40:48,857 We were thinking, if the strongest team, 711 00:40:48,858 --> 00:40:50,392 you know, go into this part 712 00:40:50,393 --> 00:40:52,633 and fixing the ropes through the bottleneck, 713 00:40:52,634 --> 00:40:55,161 we can just follow the ropes and go to the summit. 714 00:40:55,162 --> 00:40:57,528 So it's very- it's really safe plan. 715 00:40:57,529 --> 00:41:00,537 I don't know if you're going with the summit party... 716 00:41:00,538 --> 00:41:02,264 It was obvious for me and Rolf 717 00:41:02,265 --> 00:41:07,319 that this was not gonna be as smooth as it's planned. 718 00:41:07,320 --> 00:41:08,952 It seemed too easy for us. 719 00:41:08,953 --> 00:41:10,584 - There's nothing to do. - Yeah, yeah, okay. 720 00:41:10,585 --> 00:41:12,440 600 meters at the peaks. 721 00:41:12,441 --> 00:41:13,591 Yes. 722 00:41:13,592 --> 00:41:15,868 Our team's thereto, uh, more... 723 00:41:17,912 --> 00:41:20,119 If you start sharing responsibilities 724 00:41:20,120 --> 00:41:22,327 with other people, 725 00:41:22,328 --> 00:41:26,391 I think that in the end, as humans we relax. 726 00:41:26,392 --> 00:41:30,966 We don't really do what we should be doing. 727 00:41:30,967 --> 00:41:36,726 And K2 really demands knowing how to do things, 728 00:41:36,727 --> 00:41:40,698 giving the right answer, having an answer for everything. 729 00:41:45,718 --> 00:41:46,870 In a perfect world, 730 00:41:46,871 --> 00:41:50,773 everyone is responsible for everyone. 731 00:41:50,774 --> 00:41:54,005 Only the mountain attains perfection. 732 00:41:54,006 --> 00:41:56,981 That's why you come to climb it. 733 00:41:56,982 --> 00:42:00,437 They would never have tried K2 734 00:42:00,438 --> 00:42:04,501 without the knowledge and expertise of the locals. 735 00:42:04,502 --> 00:42:07,637 My unlikely partner was named Mahdi. 736 00:42:07,638 --> 00:42:11,284 He was the very best of the Hunzas. 737 00:42:11,285 --> 00:42:13,812 On the eve of the summit push, 738 00:42:13,813 --> 00:42:17,332 we were to take the last of the oxygen to the final camp 739 00:42:17,333 --> 00:42:19,475 and meet with the lead climbers, 740 00:42:19,476 --> 00:42:21,684 Lacedelli and Compagnoni. 741 00:42:21,685 --> 00:42:23,731 The names are legendary now, 742 00:42:23,732 --> 00:42:26,676 the two men who ultimately conquered K2 743 00:42:26,677 --> 00:42:29,157 for the first time in history. 744 00:42:31,700 --> 00:42:35,219 It could have been us with them, Mahdi and myself. 745 00:42:35,220 --> 00:42:37,875 We had agreed, if we were strong, 746 00:42:37,876 --> 00:42:39,986 we would go too, 747 00:42:39,987 --> 00:42:42,706 but we never found them. 748 00:42:42,707 --> 00:42:45,522 We climbed to the point of exhaustion 749 00:42:45,523 --> 00:42:47,730 to where they were supposed to be 750 00:42:47,731 --> 00:42:51,090 and began crying out for them. 751 00:42:51,091 --> 00:42:52,402 As the sun disappeared, 752 00:42:52,403 --> 00:42:55,506 the thin air began to eat away at us. 753 00:42:55,507 --> 00:42:57,713 As violent as a slap in the face, 754 00:42:57,714 --> 00:43:01,491 the first gust of snow hit us head-on. 755 00:43:01,940 --> 00:43:08,240 CAMP THREE 24 HOURS BEFORE THE SUMMIT ASSAULT 756 00:43:12,169 --> 00:43:13,840 We were just thinking, "it's just a matter" 757 00:43:13,841 --> 00:43:16,145 "of, you know, an hour, and then the wind will drop." 758 00:43:16,146 --> 00:43:17,232 But it didn't drop. 759 00:43:17,233 --> 00:43:18,736 It actually... it went... 760 00:43:18,737 --> 00:43:20,478 it became stronger and stronger. 761 00:43:24,977 --> 00:43:26,581 That was like... 762 00:43:27,505 --> 00:43:29,264 Wind was go like that, 763 00:43:29,265 --> 00:43:31,440 and my tent in the moment was go up 764 00:43:31,441 --> 00:43:33,512 and me with the tent. 765 00:43:41,130 --> 00:43:44,030 Hoselito Bite's tent was torn to pieces, equipment and supplies were lost in the storm. 766 00:43:45,000 --> 00:43:48,500 The only possible helpers were mountaineers from the neighboring Norit-Team. 767 00:43:51,439 --> 00:43:54,886 It's impossible to even look outside the tent. 768 00:43:55,919 --> 00:43:58,766 Quite critical situation. 769 00:43:58,767 --> 00:44:02,478 Oh, God. God. God. 770 00:44:02,479 --> 00:44:03,514 That's it. Come on. 771 00:44:04,814 --> 00:44:05,986 In you go. 772 00:44:09,710 --> 00:44:11,085 They put me on the sleeping bag. 773 00:44:11,086 --> 00:44:12,589 I started shaking. 774 00:44:12,590 --> 00:44:14,606 I was in bad situation. 775 00:44:14,607 --> 00:44:15,949 You're okay. 776 00:44:15,950 --> 00:44:17,740 All right, Wilco! 777 00:44:17,741 --> 00:44:19,149 Wilco, this is Ger here! 778 00:44:19,150 --> 00:44:21,187 We got a situation here. 779 00:44:23,917 --> 00:44:26,188 I heard Gerard talk with the Wilco 780 00:44:26,189 --> 00:44:27,980 by walkie-talkie. 781 00:44:27,981 --> 00:44:31,084 "Okay, Wilco, now we are going to bring him" 782 00:44:31,085 --> 00:44:35,052 "inside your tent because you have more space." 783 00:44:35,053 --> 00:44:36,623 This is no time for bullshitting now. 784 00:44:37,965 --> 00:44:39,756 The Serbian guy... I don't know... 785 00:44:39,757 --> 00:44:42,220 but if he would have knocked on my tent, 786 00:44:42,221 --> 00:44:43,404 I would have say, "Listen." 787 00:44:43,405 --> 00:44:45,035 "Go down immediately," 788 00:44:45,036 --> 00:44:47,211 "because I can't have you in my tent now" 789 00:44:47,212 --> 00:44:48,299 "because I have to rest" 790 00:44:48,300 --> 00:44:50,041 "because I have to go to the summit." 791 00:44:55,500 --> 00:44:58,071 We didn't sleep all night. 792 00:45:07,883 --> 00:45:11,082 Early in the morning, Ger was a little angry. 793 00:45:11,083 --> 00:45:13,354 I was not sure whether he was angry 794 00:45:13,355 --> 00:45:15,337 because of what happened with me 795 00:45:15,338 --> 00:45:20,649 or because of what happened between two of them. 796 00:45:20,650 --> 00:45:21,961 I was really pissed, 797 00:45:21,962 --> 00:45:23,977 so I had to make clear that this guy 798 00:45:23,978 --> 00:45:25,993 would not go with us. 799 00:45:25,994 --> 00:45:27,497 And I said, "Listen. There is just one." 800 00:45:27,498 --> 00:45:28,776 "You have to go back," 801 00:45:28,777 --> 00:45:30,760 "and I don't want to see you in that camp," you know? 802 00:45:30,761 --> 00:45:32,457 For me, I don't know. 803 00:45:32,458 --> 00:45:35,400 I... myself, I feel... I don't know 804 00:45:35,401 --> 00:45:37,832 how I will continue with my life 805 00:45:37,833 --> 00:45:42,120 till I know to- somebody needed my help. 806 00:45:42,121 --> 00:45:46,331 Not too much-little help, and I didn't want to give him. 807 00:45:54,633 --> 00:45:55,879 A lot of guys, 808 00:45:55,880 --> 00:45:57,543 they are thinking they can climb K2 809 00:45:57,544 --> 00:45:59,399 without oxygen, without ropes, 810 00:45:59,400 --> 00:46:00,935 without bringing the right stuff, 811 00:46:00,936 --> 00:46:02,695 bringing the right team. 812 00:46:02,696 --> 00:46:04,423 You can't climb an 8,000-meter peak alone. 813 00:46:04,424 --> 00:46:07,526 You-you didn't bring any rope. 814 00:46:07,527 --> 00:46:10,054 How do you want to climb this fucking mountain? 815 00:46:10,055 --> 00:46:11,463 Mm-hmm. 816 00:46:11,464 --> 00:46:15,238 - It's really irresponsible. - How did you do it 2006? 817 00:46:15,239 --> 00:46:18,502 Wilco is very direct and blunt. 818 00:46:18,503 --> 00:46:19,878 He'd lay his cards on the table. 819 00:46:19,879 --> 00:46:22,470 There's no doubt about what he was thinking, you know? 820 00:46:22,471 --> 00:46:25,111 So I think, you know, Ger kind of liked that about him. 821 00:46:28,806 --> 00:46:31,077 Both Ger and Wilco, 822 00:46:31,078 --> 00:46:33,558 they really had the summit in their eyes. 823 00:46:34,918 --> 00:46:36,488 You could see it. 824 00:46:37,730 --> 00:46:39,930 The two men had already attempted to climb K2. 825 00:46:40,214 --> 00:46:45,014 Only two years ago. 826 00:46:45,829 --> 00:46:49,828 The 29th of July 2006, I got a phone call from Ger. 827 00:46:49,829 --> 00:46:51,556 I can still hear him saying it to me. 828 00:46:51,557 --> 00:46:54,563 He says, "Jeez, JJ, this is so doable." 829 00:46:54,564 --> 00:46:55,939 And he said, "I can't believe it." 830 00:46:55,940 --> 00:46:57,783 He said, "It's so doable." 831 00:47:00,580 --> 00:47:03,140 They were hiking up from... 832 00:47:03,141 --> 00:47:04,451 I think it was advanced base camp, 833 00:47:04,452 --> 00:47:07,811 and they were gonna go up to Camp Two on the Abruzzi. 834 00:47:07,812 --> 00:47:10,786 Ger was going up, and what people say is, 835 00:47:10,787 --> 00:47:13,700 it was actually a rock avalanche. 836 00:47:14,756 --> 00:47:16,098 The phone rang. 837 00:47:16,099 --> 00:47:20,162 She said to me, "There's been an accident on K2." 838 00:47:20,163 --> 00:47:23,406 And I said, "How bad?" And she said, "Look..." 839 00:47:26,883 --> 00:47:30,330 "You'll probably bring-bringing him home in a body bag." 840 00:47:40,482 --> 00:47:42,945 It was just an act of God as such, 841 00:47:42,946 --> 00:47:44,801 like, I mean, a rockfall that caught him. 842 00:47:44,802 --> 00:47:46,785 And, I mean, the helmet he had on him at the time 843 00:47:46,786 --> 00:47:48,576 probably, possibly saved his life. 844 00:47:48,577 --> 00:47:50,689 But I knew-l always knew from that-from that night on, 845 00:47:50,690 --> 00:47:52,384 I knew that he was gonna try and do this again, 846 00:47:52,385 --> 00:47:53,420 like, you know. 847 00:48:03,521 --> 00:48:05,984 The bigger the dream, the bigger the risks, 848 00:48:05,985 --> 00:48:08,991 but, you know, the dream was there. 849 00:48:08,992 --> 00:48:11,040 From that moment, 850 00:48:11,041 --> 00:48:12,191 I knew we are coming back, you know, 851 00:48:12,192 --> 00:48:14,433 and Ger would go with me again. 852 00:48:17,472 --> 00:48:20,095 That's why, when we reach Camp Four, 853 00:48:20,096 --> 00:48:21,973 it was already a magic moment. 854 00:48:25,311 --> 00:48:28,638 Ah, so happy to be here. 855 00:48:28,639 --> 00:48:31,230 I could almost cry. 856 00:48:31,231 --> 00:48:34,622 When you love someone and they love doing something, 857 00:48:34,623 --> 00:48:36,254 you're happy for them. 858 00:48:36,255 --> 00:48:38,845 Of course, it's a dangerous mountain. 859 00:48:38,846 --> 00:48:40,317 Any mountain's a dangerous mountain. 860 00:48:40,318 --> 00:48:41,854 But he knew he could climb it, 861 00:48:41,855 --> 00:48:44,286 and he knew he could climb it safely. 862 00:48:44,287 --> 00:48:49,032 And I think he wanted to go back. 863 00:49:07,229 --> 00:49:09,980 There are always things you don't talk about 864 00:49:09,981 --> 00:49:11,739 and which you don't expect, 865 00:49:11,740 --> 00:49:14,108 and one thing was that in this meeting, 866 00:49:14,109 --> 00:49:16,539 the leader of the high-altitude porters 867 00:49:16,540 --> 00:49:18,715 who are making, breaking trail, 868 00:49:18,716 --> 00:49:21,083 I trust this guy completely. 869 00:49:21,084 --> 00:49:22,331 Doing this... 870 00:49:22,332 --> 00:49:23,804 But what happened... 871 00:49:23,805 --> 00:49:25,211 He went ill. 872 00:49:25,212 --> 00:49:26,619 So no leader anymore. 873 00:49:26,620 --> 00:49:29,563 High-altitude porters of the Sherpas, 874 00:49:29,564 --> 00:49:31,163 they're going to fix the rope, 875 00:49:31,164 --> 00:49:32,602 and the members from the Koreans, 876 00:49:32,603 --> 00:49:35,130 they're going to countercheck the rope, 877 00:49:35,131 --> 00:49:37,210 that it is affixed properly on the mountain. 878 00:49:37,211 --> 00:49:40,538 The new plan was that a Korean leader, 879 00:49:40,539 --> 00:49:42,042 you know, he was the climbing leader 880 00:49:42,043 --> 00:49:44,218 of the big Korean team- 881 00:49:44,219 --> 00:49:47,609 he would check everything in Camp Four, 882 00:49:47,610 --> 00:49:48,918 but he didn't. 883 00:49:50,000 --> 00:49:52,450 CAMP FOUR THE MORNING OF THE SUMMIT CLIMB 884 00:50:01,562 --> 00:50:02,649 We have a plan. 885 00:50:02,650 --> 00:50:06,393 12:00, the first party should move. 886 00:50:06,394 --> 00:50:09,752 But 11:00, Korean climbing leader 887 00:50:09,753 --> 00:50:11,064 is still inside the tents, 888 00:50:11,065 --> 00:50:13,817 keep smoking and smoking and... 889 00:50:13,818 --> 00:50:17,766 Then finally I said, "No, now we have to do it ourself." 890 00:50:21,560 --> 00:50:23,512 So this Sherpa, Pemba, 891 00:50:23,513 --> 00:50:29,143 his face, I remember very clearly that night. 892 00:50:29,144 --> 00:50:31,927 He was the kind of person 893 00:50:31,928 --> 00:50:37,655 that transmitted safety, security, 894 00:50:37,656 --> 00:50:39,831 wanting to know who I was, 895 00:50:39,832 --> 00:50:42,167 how I got there in the middle of the night. 896 00:50:42,168 --> 00:50:45,206 I told him, "I am climbing solo", 897 00:50:45,207 --> 00:50:49,519 "and I am hoping to go up with you." 898 00:50:50,920 --> 00:50:52,920 Alberto Zerain attempted the summit from Camp Three. 899 00:50:52,925 --> 00:50:55,675 Pemba and the first team arrive at Camp Four. 900 00:50:55,699 --> 00:51:00,099 They were 75 minutes behind schedule. 901 00:51:00,470 --> 00:51:01,910 The summit bid was delayed 902 00:51:01,911 --> 00:51:04,790 because people were wandering around like, 903 00:51:04,791 --> 00:51:06,741 "Hey, where's the gear?" 904 00:51:06,742 --> 00:51:07,701 "Where's the equipment?" 905 00:51:07,702 --> 00:51:08,981 "Where's the rope?" 906 00:51:08,982 --> 00:51:13,461 We are way back in time. 907 00:51:13,462 --> 00:51:15,093 We are really late. 908 00:51:15,094 --> 00:51:16,917 Very disappointing. 909 00:51:16,918 --> 00:51:18,229 The high-altitude porters, 910 00:51:18,230 --> 00:51:20,692 they're just starting to fixing the ropes, 911 00:51:20,693 --> 00:51:23,156 and Pemba was not that kind of leader 912 00:51:23,157 --> 00:51:24,340 who said, "Listen." 913 00:51:24,341 --> 00:51:26,548 "We are going to do it like this," you know? 914 00:51:26,549 --> 00:51:28,532 I was surprised 915 00:51:28,533 --> 00:51:30,452 that they were putting fixed ropes 916 00:51:30,453 --> 00:51:34,132 at areas which didn't need it. 917 00:51:34,133 --> 00:51:37,459 Just, like, 10 meters from the tents or something. 918 00:51:37,460 --> 00:51:40,202 There were ropes very, very early on. 919 00:51:42,037 --> 00:51:44,371 Suddenly, there's no more progression, 920 00:51:44,372 --> 00:51:47,731 and people are just standing there waiting. 921 00:51:47,732 --> 00:51:50,906 And they yelled back that they'd run out of rope. 922 00:51:55,124 --> 00:51:56,691 We were thinking, 923 00:51:56,692 --> 00:51:58,694 "In God's sake, how is this possible?" 924 00:51:59,891 --> 00:52:00,946 The only thing you can do 925 00:52:00,947 --> 00:52:02,962 is going back, cut the ropes, 926 00:52:02,963 --> 00:52:05,500 and bring it up, and that's what we did. 927 00:52:08,178 --> 00:52:10,834 We were delayed with two hours, 928 00:52:10,835 --> 00:52:12,754 and that's too long. 929 00:52:12,755 --> 00:52:16,561 You can't catch up two hours on a summit bid. 930 00:52:16,562 --> 00:52:19,473 Even though there were perfect conditions, 931 00:52:19,474 --> 00:52:23,012 in the death zone, you're just losing more energy. 932 00:52:29,233 --> 00:52:31,504 Those people, they are too optimistic 933 00:52:31,505 --> 00:52:32,880 for the summit, 934 00:52:32,881 --> 00:52:36,055 and that's why they keep climb. 935 00:52:42,001 --> 00:52:47,610 They forget so many things about safety. 936 00:52:48,656 --> 00:52:49,794 Aah! 937 00:53:00,240 --> 00:53:02,830 People think that we're mad. 938 00:53:02,831 --> 00:53:06,677 How can you continue if someone died? 939 00:53:07,728 --> 00:53:10,318 But if you drive a car, you see people crash. 940 00:53:10,319 --> 00:53:13,198 You see people die in traffic. 941 00:53:13,199 --> 00:53:16,269 You keep on driving, 'cause you- 942 00:53:16,270 --> 00:53:17,997 you think it's not gonna happen to you. 943 00:53:17,998 --> 00:53:19,661 I see. 944 00:53:19,662 --> 00:53:21,325 Is he in the rock? 945 00:53:21,326 --> 00:53:22,574 - He's here. - Yeah. 946 00:53:22,575 --> 00:53:23,534 - Yeah. - The rock. 947 00:53:23,535 --> 00:53:25,229 Yeah, right there at the edge. 948 00:53:25,230 --> 00:53:26,318 If everybody turned back 949 00:53:26,319 --> 00:53:29,549 after the Serbian people fell down, 950 00:53:29,550 --> 00:53:33,933 then I think there was only 1 casualties on the mountain 951 00:53:33,934 --> 00:53:35,914 instead of 11. 952 00:53:41,160 --> 00:53:43,160 A mountaineer aborted the climb. 953 00:53:43,184 --> 00:53:50,584 The Norwegian Rolf Bae made it through the Bottleneck and over the Traverse but stopped 200 meters before the summit. 954 00:53:50,925 --> 00:53:51,947 How are you? 955 00:53:51,948 --> 00:53:53,675 Good. 956 00:53:53,676 --> 00:53:55,531 But not a great day today. 957 00:53:55,532 --> 00:53:57,355 A hard day for me today. 958 00:53:57,356 --> 00:53:58,411 Yes. 959 00:53:58,412 --> 00:54:00,555 It was not a good day. 960 00:54:00,556 --> 00:54:03,403 He said, "You go." 961 00:54:03,404 --> 00:54:05,931 "You feel strong. You are strong." 962 00:54:05,932 --> 00:54:10,251 "You go to there... to the top with Lars." 963 00:54:10,252 --> 00:54:13,482 And I looked back many times, 964 00:54:13,483 --> 00:54:14,890 and every time I looked back 965 00:54:14,891 --> 00:54:18,155 and if he was looking at me at the same time, 966 00:54:18,156 --> 00:54:20,394 he was, like, thumbs up 967 00:54:20,395 --> 00:54:23,342 and like, "Keep on going." 968 00:54:28,842 --> 00:54:32,489 Rolf and me, we talk several times. 969 00:54:32,490 --> 00:54:35,049 Then Rolf say, "Now, Pemba, I want to go back" 970 00:54:35,050 --> 00:54:39,497 "because these guys are very stupid" 971 00:54:39,498 --> 00:54:41,641 "because nobody talking each other" 972 00:54:41,642 --> 00:54:42,953 "about the timing." 973 00:54:42,954 --> 00:54:46,766 "Really, I don't understand the people." 974 00:54:51,273 --> 00:54:52,680 - It's so hard to turn around, 975 00:54:52,681 --> 00:54:55,528 and it's so easy to just continue a little bit, 976 00:54:55,529 --> 00:54:57,440 just a half an hour to see. 977 00:55:01,160 --> 00:55:03,333 I could see Lars on the summit. 978 00:55:05,481 --> 00:55:09,987 He took Rolf's rabbit hat on and danced on the summit. 979 00:55:13,096 --> 00:55:16,270 We had just a few minutes- took pictures. 980 00:55:18,664 --> 00:55:21,574 Even in our most crazy dreams, 981 00:55:21,575 --> 00:55:24,454 we wouldn't have dreamt it to be that beautiful. 982 00:55:25,352 --> 00:55:29,382 With that shadow of K2 into China- 983 00:55:29,383 --> 00:55:32,166 absolutely beautiful. 984 00:55:32,167 --> 00:55:34,246 I enjoyed the view, 985 00:55:34,247 --> 00:55:36,581 but the only thing that was in our head 986 00:55:36,582 --> 00:55:39,461 was that we're not gonna stay here for very long. 987 00:55:39,462 --> 00:55:40,677 We're going back. 988 00:55:40,678 --> 00:55:45,285 We have to get back to the ropes before it gets dark. 989 00:55:45,286 --> 00:55:46,469 We're on the summit of K2! 990 00:55:46,470 --> 00:55:47,429 Whoo-hoo! 991 00:55:47,430 --> 00:55:48,431 Yo, yo, yo. 992 00:55:50,117 --> 00:55:52,229 Time passes by in a very strange fashion 993 00:55:52,230 --> 00:55:53,252 up there. 994 00:55:53,253 --> 00:55:56,101 What may feel like a couple of seconds 995 00:55:56,102 --> 00:55:58,724 could actually be a minute or vice versa. 996 00:55:58,725 --> 00:56:02,263 You know, it's very hard to tell. 997 00:56:09,285 --> 00:56:11,139 He phoned me, and I was lucky enough 998 00:56:11,140 --> 00:56:13,586 that the connection was made. 999 00:56:15,973 --> 00:56:17,347 He was elated. 1000 00:56:17,348 --> 00:56:19,459 He told me everybody was feeling good, 1001 00:56:19,460 --> 00:56:23,043 that there was no problem. 1002 00:56:23,044 --> 00:56:25,219 And then... 1003 00:56:25,220 --> 00:56:30,690 yeah, I was just hoping to hear from him, 1004 00:56:30,691 --> 00:56:33,797 you know, five or six hours' time. 1005 00:56:37,091 --> 00:56:40,546 When we ready to descend, and he's saying, 1006 00:56:40,547 --> 00:56:43,714 "Okay, now I don't want to take the flags" 1007 00:56:43,715 --> 00:56:47,202 "camera, sat phone," 1008 00:56:47,203 --> 00:56:49,666 "everything you have to carry." 1009 00:56:49,667 --> 00:56:51,169 And I took everything. 1010 00:57:10,082 --> 00:57:14,368 You know that almost all the accidents in climbing 1011 00:57:14,369 --> 00:57:16,832 happen on the way down, on the descent. 1012 00:57:16,833 --> 00:57:19,135 You get exhausted. You relax. 1013 00:57:19,136 --> 00:57:22,175 It gets dark. 1014 00:57:22,176 --> 00:57:25,646 So that's a factor that every climber know. 1015 00:57:28,608 --> 00:57:30,383 We caught up with Rolf further down. 1016 00:57:31,680 --> 00:57:36,095 He was so happy and congratulated us. 1017 00:57:36,096 --> 00:57:39,231 And we decided to descend together, of course, 1018 00:57:39,232 --> 00:57:44,254 down to the fixed ropes, slow, but efficient. 1019 00:57:44,255 --> 00:57:50,366 It gets dark just 15 minutes after we get to the fixed ropes, 1020 00:57:50,367 --> 00:57:53,211 so we put on our head torches. 1021 00:58:01,471 --> 00:58:04,317 When Rolf gets there, I ask him if he wants to go first, 1022 00:58:04,318 --> 00:58:05,853 or if he wants me to go first. 1023 00:58:05,854 --> 00:58:07,549 Do you want me to go first? 1024 00:58:07,550 --> 00:58:09,916 - He said, "Lars, I go first." - No, I go first. 1025 00:58:09,917 --> 00:58:12,659 - "You look after my wife." - You look after my wife. 1026 00:58:17,438 --> 00:58:18,397 Yeah. 1027 00:58:18,398 --> 00:58:19,934 That's the... 1028 00:58:22,557 --> 00:58:25,060 It's the last thing he said. 1029 00:58:38,204 --> 00:58:39,739 I don't know if I heard anything, 1030 00:58:39,740 --> 00:58:40,878 but I felt it. 1031 00:58:42,043 --> 00:58:43,647 The ground was shaking underneath me. 1032 00:58:52,956 --> 00:58:57,166 The last thing I saw was Rolf's head torch moving. 1033 00:59:00,282 --> 00:59:02,819 And then it was dark. 1034 00:59:21,977 --> 00:59:23,979 You must think I'm crazy saying this, but... 1035 00:59:24,889 --> 00:59:27,448 Suddenly, I could hear his voice. 1036 00:59:27,449 --> 00:59:30,424 And it was so strong. 1037 00:59:30,425 --> 00:59:34,648 It was, like, saying, 1038 00:59:34,649 --> 00:59:37,459 "You have to get down." 1039 00:59:42,320 --> 00:59:45,320 The falling ice not only killed Rolf, it also cut the fixed ropes. 1040 00:59:45,400 --> 00:59:51,000 The 15 climbers above were now without a main rope. 1041 00:59:57,751 --> 00:59:59,510 You're going down thinking, 1042 00:59:59,511 --> 01:00:02,102 "Follow the lines, and there is Camp Four." 1043 01:00:02,103 --> 01:00:04,087 And in a few days, we would have big party 1044 01:00:04,088 --> 01:00:06,500 with all the teams in the base camp. 1045 01:00:09,015 --> 01:00:11,190 The problem is, you are so exhausted, 1046 01:00:11,191 --> 01:00:13,526 and you are not that concentrated. 1047 01:00:13,527 --> 01:00:17,441 And everybody is going down in his own speed. 1048 01:00:20,759 --> 01:00:24,309 We reached the Korean Sherpas and Korean team. 1049 01:00:24,310 --> 01:00:25,269 Everybody, 1050 01:00:25,270 --> 01:00:27,272 they come together, regroup. 1051 01:00:31,350 --> 01:00:33,268 We have only one option. 1052 01:00:33,269 --> 01:00:36,564 We put all people together on one rope, 1053 01:00:36,565 --> 01:00:41,014 then try to bring down together. 1054 01:01:15,635 --> 01:01:17,906 We were looking up the mountain every hour, 1055 01:01:17,907 --> 01:01:22,130 and we were monitoring our radios all the time. 1056 01:01:22,131 --> 01:01:24,433 And we were getting more and more anxious 1057 01:01:24,434 --> 01:01:26,673 about their safety. 1058 01:01:26,674 --> 01:01:28,689 We see these headlamps and thinking, 1059 01:01:28,690 --> 01:01:30,353 "Oh, my God. Oh, my God." 1060 01:01:30,354 --> 01:01:31,601 "They're not moving very fast." 1061 01:01:31,602 --> 01:01:33,206 "What's going on?" 1062 01:01:34,674 --> 01:01:37,120 We started feeling... 1063 01:01:38,802 --> 01:01:41,146 Hopeless. 1064 01:01:48,785 --> 01:01:51,504 The Korean completely stopped. 1065 01:01:51,505 --> 01:01:53,712 It was impossible to bring them down 1066 01:01:53,713 --> 01:01:55,759 with the same rope 1067 01:01:55,760 --> 01:01:57,239 because they sit down. 1068 01:02:03,226 --> 01:02:04,783 The whole thing was a little bit stuck, 1069 01:02:04,784 --> 01:02:08,559 so it was not totally clear. 1070 01:02:08,560 --> 01:02:10,895 One moment, you are not walking all together anymore, 1071 01:02:10,896 --> 01:02:12,782 so you are a little bit separated, 1072 01:02:12,783 --> 01:02:15,247 a few meters between you. 1073 01:02:15,248 --> 01:02:18,058 Everybody is just descending. 1074 01:02:23,663 --> 01:02:27,822 We came at the point where the fixed rope should be, 1075 01:02:27,823 --> 01:02:28,893 but it wasn't there. 1076 01:02:31,951 --> 01:02:33,134 Marco was looking. 1077 01:02:33,135 --> 01:02:34,605 I was searching. 1078 01:02:34,606 --> 01:02:37,166 But we couldn't find it. 1079 01:02:37,167 --> 01:02:39,757 I was convinced that this was the right way, 1080 01:02:39,758 --> 01:02:42,261 but why wasn't the rope there? 1081 01:02:43,726 --> 01:02:45,645 The only thing you think is, 1082 01:02:45,646 --> 01:02:47,981 "We must be on the wrong side of the mountain, 1083 01:02:47,982 --> 01:02:50,826 or we must have lost the way." 1084 01:02:55,822 --> 01:03:01,196 My soul said, "Marco, stop yourself." 1085 01:03:01,197 --> 01:03:03,564 "Stop. Stop. Stop." 1086 01:03:03,565 --> 01:03:05,164 I called Ger. 1087 01:03:05,165 --> 01:03:08,300 I said, "Ger, let's stay here for the night." 1088 01:03:08,301 --> 01:03:09,771 We must stay still 1089 01:03:09,772 --> 01:03:13,549 because it would be easy for an avalanche to get us. 1090 01:03:20,331 --> 01:03:24,938 I expected by noon at the latest to hear from them. 1091 01:03:24,939 --> 01:03:26,346 And the phone rang when I was at lunch, 1092 01:03:26,347 --> 01:03:29,194 and I thought it was him, but it was another friend. 1093 01:03:29,195 --> 01:03:30,827 She was like, "Have you heard from Ger yet?" 1094 01:03:30,828 --> 01:03:33,354 And I said, "No. I'm really worried." 1095 01:03:33,355 --> 01:03:36,778 And then I went home from lunch, 1096 01:03:36,779 --> 01:03:38,794 got immediately on the internet, 1097 01:03:38,795 --> 01:03:42,743 and the first thing was "Trouble on K2." 1098 01:03:46,091 --> 01:03:47,593 First thing I thought of was, 1099 01:03:47,594 --> 01:03:50,857 "Okay, when does the sun rise on K2?" 1100 01:03:50,858 --> 01:03:53,129 "Because that's when they'll start moving again." 1101 01:03:53,130 --> 01:03:56,304 And, you know, "How many more hours do they have out there?" 1102 01:04:01,642 --> 01:04:04,616 We were stranded above the death zone. 1103 01:04:04,617 --> 01:04:06,249 Mahdi was out of his head. 1104 01:04:06,250 --> 01:04:09,704 I thought he was going to kill us both. 1105 01:04:09,705 --> 01:04:12,808 By instinct, I digged a hole into the slope 1106 01:04:12,809 --> 01:04:14,504 to get out of the storm. 1107 01:04:14,505 --> 01:04:16,615 I remember screaming at the top of my lungs, 1108 01:04:16,616 --> 01:04:19,688 "I don't want to die!" 1109 01:04:19,689 --> 01:04:23,943 And that's when I heard them above the howl of the wind. 1110 01:04:23,944 --> 01:04:27,655 I don't know whether it was Compagnoni or Lacedelli, 1111 01:04:27,656 --> 01:04:29,127 but I heard a voice. 1112 01:04:29,128 --> 01:04:31,878 "Do you want us to freeze for you?" 1113 01:04:31,879 --> 01:04:35,588 "Leave the oxygen and go straight down." 1114 01:04:39,815 --> 01:04:42,989 For me, the descent is not a really big problem. 1115 01:04:46,343 --> 01:04:48,166 I'm so much fixed in the descending 1116 01:04:48,167 --> 01:04:50,373 that I don't really know who is in front of me 1117 01:04:50,374 --> 01:04:51,910 or back of me. 1118 01:04:51,911 --> 01:04:54,694 So only thing is, I know that I see light 1119 01:04:54,695 --> 01:04:56,325 and I was coming close to the light. 1120 01:04:56,326 --> 01:05:00,325 Then I saw it was Hugues, the Frenchman. 1121 01:05:00,326 --> 01:05:02,405 Hey, Hugues. 1122 01:05:02,406 --> 01:05:04,249 Hey, Gas. 1123 01:05:05,990 --> 01:05:08,389 Y... you go past. 1124 01:05:08,390 --> 01:05:10,631 You're quicker than me. 1125 01:05:12,261 --> 01:05:15,396 I pass him, and I go on descending. 1126 01:05:15,397 --> 01:05:16,964 Take your time. 1127 01:05:16,965 --> 01:05:19,206 Go. Go. 1128 01:05:21,477 --> 01:05:23,957 And then I noticed something is not okay with the rope. 1129 01:05:26,600 --> 01:05:28,600 The icefall had severed the fixed ropes. 1130 01:05:28,624 --> 01:05:32,724 Cas began his descent to Camp Four with the help of crampons and an ice axe. 1131 01:06:13,026 --> 01:06:16,129 If you sleep, you die. 1132 01:06:16,130 --> 01:06:19,552 I think Wilco heard our voices, 1133 01:06:19,553 --> 01:06:24,627 so he came in our direction. 1134 01:06:41,120 --> 01:06:42,175 We were not in a panic. 1135 01:06:42,176 --> 01:06:44,095 We were- we were just sitting. 1136 01:06:44,096 --> 01:06:46,110 We were just, you know, yeah, 1137 01:06:46,111 --> 01:06:48,191 wondering why we couldn't find the rope. 1138 01:06:48,192 --> 01:06:50,718 But we were convinced that next morning, 1139 01:06:50,719 --> 01:06:52,703 with the first light, 1140 01:06:52,704 --> 01:06:55,014 we would find the rope again. 1141 01:07:29,565 --> 01:07:32,444 The Korean, they sit down. 1142 01:07:32,445 --> 01:07:34,812 I feel, it's very, very sad, 1143 01:07:34,813 --> 01:07:37,500 because I understand many people, 1144 01:07:37,501 --> 01:07:41,210 they cannot reach a high camp tonight. 1145 01:07:48,540 --> 01:07:53,040 Pemba and two Sherpas joined the group and descended to Camp Four. 1146 01:07:53,400 --> 01:07:57,600 8 climbers remain on the mountain for unknown reasons. 1147 01:08:02,523 --> 01:08:04,093 4:00. 1148 01:08:08,315 --> 01:08:09,274 There is nothing, 1149 01:08:09,275 --> 01:08:11,514 no ice anchor, no length, 1150 01:08:11,515 --> 01:08:15,226 no rock anchor, no fixed line, nothing. 1151 01:08:15,227 --> 01:08:17,626 Then I try to contact with the Korean Sherpa, 1152 01:08:17,627 --> 01:08:22,457 but I couldn't get them on radio 1153 01:08:22,458 --> 01:08:26,105 because nobody switched on the radio. 1154 01:08:26,106 --> 01:08:28,473 It was a big problem. 1155 01:08:28,474 --> 01:08:29,817 Hmm. 1156 01:08:29,818 --> 01:08:31,352 We could go. 1157 01:08:31,353 --> 01:08:32,408 We could go up and... 1158 01:08:32,409 --> 01:08:34,169 If we had people, we could do this. 1159 01:08:34,170 --> 01:08:37,464 It was still nice and clear. 1160 01:08:37,465 --> 01:08:40,793 We could see some of the climbers 1161 01:08:40,794 --> 01:08:42,273 on the top of the serac. 1162 01:09:13,368 --> 01:09:16,598 We were convinced that, with the first light, 1163 01:09:16,599 --> 01:09:18,670 we would find the rope again. 1164 01:09:39,542 --> 01:09:41,621 And Gerard was going to the right, you know, 1165 01:09:41,622 --> 01:09:43,125 to have a look over there. 1166 01:09:43,126 --> 01:09:44,885 I was going to the left to have a look over there. 1167 01:09:44,886 --> 01:09:47,093 Marco was looking somewhere. 1168 01:09:48,469 --> 01:09:50,484 We couldn't find it. 1169 01:09:50,485 --> 01:09:52,756 And then I start to realize 1170 01:09:52,757 --> 01:09:56,660 that I got problems with my view. 1171 01:09:56,661 --> 01:10:00,468 I was getting more in panic, you know, because I knew- 1172 01:10:00,469 --> 01:10:06,228 fuck, getting snow-blind at this altitude is finished. 1173 01:10:06,229 --> 01:10:07,603 No helicopter are coming. 1174 01:10:07,604 --> 01:10:10,323 The guys can't do something with a body of 80 kilos. 1175 01:10:10,324 --> 01:10:11,795 It's finished. - Guys! 1176 01:10:11,796 --> 01:10:12,915 So, I said, "Listen, guys." 1177 01:10:12,916 --> 01:10:14,483 "I have to go down. I have to go down." 1178 01:10:14,484 --> 01:10:15,667 I have to go down! 1179 01:10:15,668 --> 01:10:17,075 So I started just going down 1180 01:10:17,076 --> 01:10:19,920 without thinking anymore and just going down. 1181 01:10:25,491 --> 01:10:26,450 Just one question. 1182 01:10:26,451 --> 01:10:28,466 Here is base camp Serbian calling. 1183 01:10:28,467 --> 01:10:31,826 Do you know some information about Gerard, the Irish guide, 1184 01:10:31,827 --> 01:10:34,770 from Norit expedition? 1185 01:10:34,771 --> 01:10:35,953 What I was hearing is "Jimmy," 1186 01:10:35,954 --> 01:10:38,737 but "Jumik and Pasang in trouble." 1187 01:10:38,738 --> 01:10:40,113 They were the Korean Sherpas. 1188 01:10:40,114 --> 01:10:41,777 Yes. 1189 01:10:41,778 --> 01:10:45,809 And then Rolf and then "Prenmaldic"? 1190 01:10:45,810 --> 01:10:51,248 I didn't even understand that other people had died, really. 1191 01:10:51,249 --> 01:10:54,096 I was in shock. 1192 01:10:54,097 --> 01:10:58,273 I remember a phone call I had to my father-in-law. 1193 01:10:59,122 --> 01:11:01,456 I was so scared to make that phone call. 1194 01:11:01,457 --> 01:11:05,667 He was gonna be mad at me for not looking after his son. 1195 01:11:10,289 --> 01:11:14,499 But instead, he said... 1196 01:11:17,104 --> 01:11:18,511 "You have to get off the mountain." 1197 01:11:18,512 --> 01:11:20,116 "You have to come home." 1198 01:11:25,648 --> 01:11:27,491 Yeah. 1199 01:11:29,295 --> 01:11:31,214 I didn't want to lose my husband, 1200 01:11:31,215 --> 01:11:34,219 but I lost, uh... 1201 01:11:36,399 --> 01:11:38,003 Of course, my best friend... 1202 01:11:40,911 --> 01:11:44,846 And my future 1203 01:11:44,847 --> 01:11:48,989 like I was hoping it would be. 1204 01:12:11,277 --> 01:12:13,996 I was just climbing down, and then, suddenly, 1205 01:12:13,997 --> 01:12:16,341 those Koreans were hanging over there. 1206 01:12:17,741 --> 01:12:19,340 I was just thinking, 1207 01:12:19,341 --> 01:12:21,451 "What the hell are they doing here?" 1208 01:12:21,452 --> 01:12:24,023 I didn't understand anything about it. 1209 01:12:46,188 --> 01:12:48,042 Gloves. 1210 01:12:48,043 --> 01:12:50,474 I had some spare gloves, so I gave the gloves. 1211 01:12:50,475 --> 01:12:52,457 I didn't ask what happened. 1212 01:12:52,458 --> 01:12:54,441 Maybe they were hanging all night long, 1213 01:12:54,442 --> 01:12:56,361 but at that time, I was... 1214 01:12:56,362 --> 01:12:58,842 I was just, you know, shocked about it. 1215 01:13:00,939 --> 01:13:02,313 I said, "Listen." 1216 01:13:02,314 --> 01:13:03,466 "I have to go down" 1217 01:13:03,467 --> 01:13:05,257 "because I'm starting to get snow-blind." 1218 01:13:05,258 --> 01:13:06,377 And he said, "Yeah, yeah," 1219 01:13:06,378 --> 01:13:10,217 "but help is also on the way, so go ahead." 1220 01:13:10,218 --> 01:13:12,323 I'll send help. 1221 01:13:29,640 --> 01:13:32,296 They are all up there by themselves. 1222 01:13:32,297 --> 01:13:34,151 They're not moving anywhere. 1223 01:13:34,152 --> 01:13:38,862 They're just sitting still, just waiting to get help. 1224 01:13:41,576 --> 01:13:44,167 The South Korean expedition leader, Kim, 1225 01:13:44,168 --> 01:13:47,526 was arranging a rescue mission. 1226 01:13:47,527 --> 01:13:49,766 But I just said, "Hey, guys", 1227 01:13:49,767 --> 01:13:53,926 "they're not standing up, moving one meter," 1228 01:13:53,927 --> 01:13:56,870 "and you're telling me that I should go up there" 1229 01:13:56,871 --> 01:13:58,918 "when the ice is still falling down?" 1230 01:13:58,919 --> 01:14:00,742 There's no fixed lines. 1231 01:14:00,743 --> 01:14:02,246 There's no ropes. 1232 01:14:02,247 --> 01:14:05,446 I mean, that is just insane. 1233 01:14:05,447 --> 01:14:07,782 This is not a guided tour. 1234 01:14:07,783 --> 01:14:10,855 We cannot physically pluck people off this mountain. 1235 01:14:13,414 --> 01:14:14,981 Then American team, they said, 1236 01:14:14,982 --> 01:14:17,540 "Because we don't have enough manpower," 1237 01:14:17,541 --> 01:14:19,460 "we cannot go ourself, a rescue," 1238 01:14:19,461 --> 01:14:22,692 "because physically we are all so weak." 1239 01:14:22,693 --> 01:14:25,700 "Is still bottleneck, is very dangerous." 1240 01:14:25,701 --> 01:14:28,443 "Then, now we have to go down." 1241 01:14:34,533 --> 01:14:36,004 Copy that. Copy that. 1242 01:14:36,005 --> 01:14:37,985 Most of the people, they are moving from- 1243 01:14:38,885 --> 01:14:40,804 Down from Camp Four, 1244 01:14:40,805 --> 01:14:42,563 moving down. 1245 01:14:42,564 --> 01:14:44,227 Then, uh... 1246 01:14:44,228 --> 01:14:45,795 In our group, 1247 01:14:45,796 --> 01:14:50,108 Mr. Kim insisted that we go for a rescue. 1248 01:14:55,812 --> 01:14:58,595 We had no choice. 1249 01:14:58,596 --> 01:15:02,146 We had to follow their instructions. 1250 01:15:02,147 --> 01:15:07,106 They paid us, 1251 01:15:07,107 --> 01:15:13,683 and they acted like they owned our lives. 1252 01:15:14,680 --> 01:15:15,980 At 10am on August 2, Mr Kim sent two Sherpas, 1253 01:15:15,990 --> 01:15:20,690 to find and rescue the three missing members of the Korean team. 1254 01:15:34,466 --> 01:15:36,193 I was so thirsty, you know, 1255 01:15:36,194 --> 01:15:39,712 and I knew I'm getting crazy in a few hours, 1256 01:15:39,713 --> 01:15:42,016 because when you don't have water at that altitude 1257 01:15:42,017 --> 01:15:44,930 for such a long time, you won't survive it. 1258 01:16:13,183 --> 01:16:15,678 I looked up, and I saw that Marco and Gerard 1259 01:16:15,679 --> 01:16:18,174 were with those Korean guys. 1260 01:16:18,175 --> 01:16:19,984 Which way? 1261 01:16:23,038 --> 01:16:24,286 That's it. 1262 01:16:24,287 --> 01:16:27,037 It was the Korean climbing leader. 1263 01:16:27,038 --> 01:16:30,333 But everything was smashed up 1264 01:16:30,334 --> 01:16:37,277 with lots of blood everywhere. 1265 01:16:37,278 --> 01:16:43,516 I have worked for 15 years in mountain rescue, 1266 01:16:43,517 --> 01:16:48,057 and I have seen many things and many people. 1267 01:16:49,469 --> 01:16:53,110 I knew this was a bad situation. 1268 01:16:55,037 --> 01:16:56,635 Okay. Okay. 1269 01:16:56,636 --> 01:16:57,637 You're all right. 1270 01:17:10,460 --> 01:17:13,595 You have to save yourself on K2. 1271 01:17:13,596 --> 01:17:16,236 It's the only way. 1272 01:17:20,251 --> 01:17:23,066 I've never attempted to take the credit 1273 01:17:23,067 --> 01:17:28,313 from Lacedelli and Compagnoni of conquering K2, 1274 01:17:28,314 --> 01:17:29,554 nor would I. 1275 01:17:31,131 --> 01:17:35,978 Yet Mahdi and I were written out of the story. 1276 01:17:37,147 --> 01:17:39,673 Our sacrifice was completely omitted 1277 01:17:39,674 --> 01:17:42,265 in the official records. 1278 01:17:42,266 --> 01:17:46,617 Then it was lied about behind my back for decades. 1279 01:17:46,618 --> 01:17:50,296 They said we used the oxygen to save ourselves. 1280 01:17:50,297 --> 01:17:52,345 This is the oxygen, mind you, 1281 01:17:52,346 --> 01:17:56,351 that Lino and Achille used to reach the summit. 1282 01:17:57,529 --> 01:18:00,568 For 30 years, I have been attacked, 1283 01:18:00,569 --> 01:18:03,768 accused, provoked, and slandered 1284 01:18:03,769 --> 01:18:06,615 all because I volunteered my own life 1285 01:18:06,616 --> 01:18:09,995 in the service of my people and my country. 1286 01:18:11,097 --> 01:18:16,012 Without Mahdi and I, K2 would have remained a dream. 1287 01:18:20,663 --> 01:18:22,774 We worked together. 1288 01:18:22,775 --> 01:18:27,159 I found a walkie-talkie under the Sherpa. 1289 01:18:27,160 --> 01:18:28,950 I spoke with someone. 1290 01:18:28,951 --> 01:18:30,678 I don't know who it was who was listening. 1291 01:18:30,679 --> 01:18:31,702 I spoke. 1292 01:18:31,703 --> 01:18:35,414 I said, "I don't speak English." 1293 01:18:35,415 --> 01:18:37,781 "I speak Tarzan English." 1294 01:18:37,782 --> 01:18:41,206 I said, "I am Marco. I am at the serac." 1295 01:18:41,207 --> 01:18:42,262 "There is a problem." 1296 01:18:42,263 --> 01:18:46,485 "Somebody has to come up. I am tired." 1297 01:18:46,486 --> 01:18:49,557 But then Ger, he went back up a bit. 1298 01:18:49,558 --> 01:18:51,925 I didn't understand why. 1299 01:18:51,926 --> 01:18:55,412 I didn't know if he wanted to pull down the Koreans still. 1300 01:18:55,413 --> 01:19:01,159 I spoke on the radio, and then I started to descend. 1301 01:19:07,029 --> 01:19:12,069 All I could think about was leaving, surviving. 1302 01:19:12,948 --> 01:19:14,586 I had to survive. 1303 01:19:24,916 --> 01:19:26,483 Called a friend. 1304 01:19:26,484 --> 01:19:28,306 Just asked her if she'd come over 1305 01:19:28,307 --> 01:19:31,442 so I wouldn't have to be alone. 1306 01:19:31,443 --> 01:19:33,907 She came to the door, 1307 01:19:33,908 --> 01:19:35,794 and she grabbed me, and she said, 1308 01:19:35,795 --> 01:19:39,208 "We are gonna will him off that mountain." 1309 01:19:54,440 --> 01:20:01,040 Around midday on August 2, the two Sherpas sent by Mr. Kim found a climber still alive below the Bottleneck. 1310 01:20:01,714 --> 01:20:03,953 Okay, you must bring him down. 1311 01:20:03,954 --> 01:20:06,065 Mr. Kim says we must keep climbing higher 1312 01:20:06,066 --> 01:20:08,103 and find the Korean team. 1313 01:20:12,785 --> 01:20:15,088 He's alive, 1314 01:20:15,089 --> 01:20:17,840 but nobody's- want to come with me. 1315 01:20:17,841 --> 01:20:20,847 But everybody say, "No, it's still dangerous." 1316 01:20:20,848 --> 01:20:25,422 Then finally, I... I start climb again. 1317 01:20:36,207 --> 01:20:38,863 He wearing a green down suit. 1318 01:20:38,864 --> 01:20:41,435 I knew that is Marco. 1319 01:20:48,207 --> 01:20:51,918 If I don't have oxygen, I cannot bring him down 1320 01:20:51,919 --> 01:20:55,093 because I cannot carry him. 1321 01:21:03,342 --> 01:21:05,421 After ten minutes, 1322 01:21:05,422 --> 01:21:10,997 Marco is trying to move and trying to talk with me. 1323 01:21:16,120 --> 01:21:19,020 At around 2PM on August 2, Pemba received a second radio message from the rescue team above him. 1324 01:21:19,040 --> 01:21:23,640 The two Sherpas had reached the upper edge of the Bottleneck, immediately below the Serac. 1325 01:21:23,917 --> 01:21:26,348 Go ahead, Pasang. 1326 01:21:26,349 --> 01:21:31,404 I am here with the Korean team. 1327 01:21:31,405 --> 01:21:33,515 They said, "We see Korean Sherpas" 1328 01:21:33,516 --> 01:21:34,604 "and Korean team." 1329 01:21:34,605 --> 01:21:38,092 "Now we are trying to descend together." 1330 01:21:38,093 --> 01:21:41,131 Is there anyone else there? 1331 01:21:41,132 --> 01:21:43,755 There was one other climber, 1332 01:21:43,756 --> 01:21:47,627 but he was hit by ice and fell. 1333 01:21:47,628 --> 01:21:51,275 What was the color of his down suit? 1334 01:21:51,276 --> 01:21:53,347 Red and black. 1335 01:21:56,267 --> 01:22:01,148 When they said, then I think that could be Ger. 1336 01:22:29,193 --> 01:22:31,880 I don't know who is the person rolling down. 1337 01:22:31,881 --> 01:22:36,744 Then I reach there, and I saw two Korean body 1338 01:22:36,745 --> 01:22:42,600 is ten meters far from two other Sherpas' body. 1339 01:22:42,601 --> 01:22:48,142 I know the rucksack and boots and down suit. 1340 01:23:06,880 --> 01:23:08,880 The two Sherpas were cousins. 1341 01:23:09,200 --> 01:23:14,900 One of them was part of the Korean team that was hanging on the ropes all night. 1342 01:23:15,100 --> 01:23:17,100 The other was sent up to save him. 1343 01:23:32,700 --> 01:23:37,500 Marco was rescued after 36 hours in the death zone. 1344 01:23:38,660 --> 01:23:44,760 18 hours later, Wilco was found by Cas and Pemba. 1345 01:23:46,000 --> 01:23:49,600 He had spent 60 hours in the death zone. 1346 01:23:49,829 --> 01:23:51,364 Everybody wants to survive... 1347 01:23:51,365 --> 01:23:54,340 doesn't matter if you have a child or... or a wife at home. 1348 01:23:54,341 --> 01:23:56,995 Yeah, there was the last moment I saw Gerard 1349 01:23:56,996 --> 01:23:58,627 and these other Koreans, 1350 01:23:58,628 --> 01:24:00,733 but I don't know what happened with them. 1351 01:24:02,052 --> 01:24:05,315 Why are... me surviving? 1352 01:24:05,316 --> 01:24:08,899 Yeah, it's... it's just a matter of... of stupid... 1353 01:24:08,900 --> 01:24:11,042 yeah, be unlucky on the wrong time 1354 01:24:11,043 --> 01:24:12,818 and the wrong place. 1355 01:24:16,835 --> 01:24:18,850 Wilco, our expedition leader, 1356 01:24:18,851 --> 01:24:22,178 is back up with the helicopter because he's frozen his feet. 1357 01:24:22,179 --> 01:24:24,354 And there's a second helicopter for Marco. 1358 01:24:24,355 --> 01:24:26,978 He froze his hands really badly, 1359 01:24:26,979 --> 01:24:29,687 so he can't use his hands to get the ropes anymore. 1360 01:24:38,146 --> 01:24:39,841 Helicopter carries the last survivor 1361 01:24:39,842 --> 01:24:41,185 of a doomed mission to climb 1362 01:24:41,186 --> 01:24:43,936 one of world's most challenging mountains. 1363 01:24:43,937 --> 01:24:47,105 Italian Marco Confortola was rescued from K2 1364 01:24:47,106 --> 01:24:48,865 nearly five days after an avalanche 1365 01:24:48,866 --> 01:24:51,264 swept some climbers away and stranded others. 1366 01:24:51,265 --> 01:24:53,152 And badly frostbitten 1367 01:24:53,153 --> 01:24:55,584 from trying to help save others in the group. 1368 01:24:55,585 --> 01:24:58,368 Instinct, he says, makes you want to do that. 1369 01:24:58,369 --> 01:24:59,808 Confortola says the expedition 1370 01:24:59,809 --> 01:25:02,943 was plagued by inexperience and poor equipment. 1371 01:25:02,944 --> 01:25:05,951 He says some ropes and spikes easily broke. 1372 01:25:05,952 --> 01:25:08,956 Different people were saying different things. 1373 01:25:10,176 --> 01:25:12,063 There was a lot of confusion. 1374 01:25:12,064 --> 01:25:13,951 There was a lot of stories, 1375 01:25:13,952 --> 01:25:17,726 but the Marco story became the story. 1376 01:25:17,727 --> 01:25:20,031 We were all prepared, 1377 01:25:20,032 --> 01:25:21,982 all alpine climbers. 1378 01:25:21,983 --> 01:25:26,782 We were people who knew what we were doing, 1379 01:25:26,783 --> 01:25:29,662 but it was K2, the most difficult of mountains. 1380 01:25:30,975 --> 01:25:34,889 This guy had had a horrific experience up there. 1381 01:25:36,159 --> 01:25:39,800 He was in pretty bad shape, both mentally and physically. 1382 01:25:41,406 --> 01:25:43,486 I said, "Look, I need to..." 1383 01:25:43,487 --> 01:25:45,341 "Find out for sure, you know," 1384 01:25:45,342 --> 01:25:46,973 "what went down up here, like, you know?" 1385 01:25:46,974 --> 01:25:48,976 "I have to go to Pakistan." 1386 01:25:57,430 --> 01:25:59,292 It was really frightening, because we didn't know 1387 01:25:59,293 --> 01:26:00,252 what we were going in for. 1388 01:26:00,253 --> 01:26:03,772 And, I mean, I guess half of me 1389 01:26:03,773 --> 01:26:05,180 kind of still believed Ger was alive, 1390 01:26:05,181 --> 01:26:07,612 and the other half didn't believe it. 1391 01:26:07,613 --> 01:26:09,684 Following day, we got to meet Wilco and Cas. 1392 01:26:13,532 --> 01:26:16,507 I'm sorry. I'm just hoping he's alive. 1393 01:26:16,508 --> 01:26:19,011 But he's saying he saw Ger fall, and his story... 1394 01:26:20,444 --> 01:26:22,299 And in my heart, there's still hope. 1395 01:26:22,300 --> 01:26:24,507 - I know it's ridiculous. - Yes, I understand. 1396 01:26:24,508 --> 01:26:27,098 - So he's-he is dead? - Yes, for sure. 1397 01:26:27,099 --> 01:26:31,098 Absolutely, because that was what Marco told us directly. 1398 01:26:31,099 --> 01:26:32,283 Wilco and Cas, 1399 01:26:32,284 --> 01:26:33,914 they were obviously nervous 1400 01:26:33,915 --> 01:26:38,105 because our brother had died, you know, 1401 01:26:38,106 --> 01:26:39,546 and they were alive. 1402 01:26:39,547 --> 01:26:41,338 Why did we split up? 1403 01:26:41,339 --> 01:26:43,386 Why didn't we look to each other? 1404 01:26:43,387 --> 01:26:45,945 The only explanation is because we were too- 1405 01:26:45,946 --> 01:26:47,609 too long at high altitude. 1406 01:26:47,610 --> 01:26:50,265 Marco's account was, he was sitting there with Ger, 1407 01:26:50,266 --> 01:26:52,313 and then there were three people ahead of them. 1408 01:26:52,314 --> 01:26:54,585 And all of a sudden, those people disappeared. 1409 01:26:54,586 --> 01:26:56,185 And so they took such a fright, 1410 01:26:56,186 --> 01:26:57,849 they decided, "Let's just sit here 1411 01:26:57,850 --> 01:27:00,377 "and wait until daylight," right? 1412 01:27:00,378 --> 01:27:02,201 And then he says you came along, 1413 01:27:02,202 --> 01:27:03,449 but then... then... 1414 01:27:03,450 --> 01:27:05,048 No, no, no, that's not correct, 1415 01:27:05,049 --> 01:27:06,552 because we started together. 1416 01:27:06,553 --> 01:27:08,376 So you were all... you bivouacked all together? 1417 01:27:08,377 --> 01:27:09,752 - Yeah. - You never came along later? 1418 01:27:09,753 --> 01:27:10,840 No. 1419 01:27:10,841 --> 01:27:12,280 One thing that always took hold in my head 1420 01:27:12,281 --> 01:27:14,744 and still does to this day was... 1421 01:27:14,745 --> 01:27:16,024 how so many people on the mountain 1422 01:27:16,025 --> 01:27:18,423 could have different stories about the same event. 1423 01:27:18,424 --> 01:27:20,536 And then we come back in the night, 1424 01:27:20,537 --> 01:27:22,904 and then after- and then the next morning, 1425 01:27:22,905 --> 01:27:24,695 everything happens. 1426 01:27:24,696 --> 01:27:26,935 They had their information 1427 01:27:26,936 --> 01:27:30,007 about the little bit Wilco could remember 1428 01:27:30,008 --> 01:27:32,855 and the little bit Cas could remember 1429 01:27:32,856 --> 01:27:34,967 and what they heard Marco could remember. 1430 01:27:34,968 --> 01:27:36,951 And they drew a map for us, 1431 01:27:36,952 --> 01:27:38,327 you know, the terrain 1432 01:27:38,328 --> 01:27:40,951 where they thought things occurred. 1433 01:27:40,952 --> 01:27:43,479 Marco's a very emotional boy. 1434 01:27:43,480 --> 01:27:44,534 He's... 1435 01:27:44,535 --> 01:27:45,526 Yes, and he's totally... 1436 01:27:45,527 --> 01:27:49,304 He was... at the end of... he was so tired. 1437 01:27:51,383 --> 01:27:53,718 They didn't know any more. 1438 01:27:53,719 --> 01:27:59,157 Cas and Wilco had been airlifted off the mountain. 1439 01:27:59,158 --> 01:28:04,149 There was no debriefing with the remainder of the team, 1440 01:28:04,150 --> 01:28:06,187 and they actually didn't know. 1441 01:28:08,118 --> 01:28:13,077 He was just getting more and more confused. 1442 01:28:13,078 --> 01:28:14,133 We needed more. 1443 01:28:14,134 --> 01:28:15,253 You know what I mean? 1444 01:28:15,254 --> 01:28:17,556 It wasn't enough. 1445 01:28:17,557 --> 01:28:21,300 For some reason, we felt we needed to talk to Pemba. 1446 01:28:24,212 --> 01:28:26,772 Marco had left by the time we got there, 1447 01:28:26,773 --> 01:28:29,204 but Pemba and the rest of the Norit team 1448 01:28:29,205 --> 01:28:32,311 were hiking out, and that takes two days. 1449 01:28:33,268 --> 01:28:35,123 Also, mentally, psychologically, 1450 01:28:35,124 --> 01:28:38,291 Marco was almost mad. 1451 01:28:38,292 --> 01:28:39,283 - Yeah. - Yeah. 1452 01:28:39,284 --> 01:28:43,283 Because when I trying to give oxygen, 1453 01:28:43,284 --> 01:28:46,002 he's angry with me. 1454 01:28:46,003 --> 01:28:48,210 "Why you came here to pick up me?" 1455 01:28:48,211 --> 01:28:50,931 He is always talking negative, negative, 1456 01:28:50,932 --> 01:28:52,339 always crying. 1457 01:28:52,340 --> 01:28:54,482 And he's saying, 1458 01:28:54,483 --> 01:28:55,506 "You fucking guys," 1459 01:28:55,507 --> 01:28:58,354 "why you come here to pick up me?" 1460 01:28:58,355 --> 01:28:59,473 - Yeah. - Yeah. 1461 01:28:59,474 --> 01:29:00,689 - That is... - Not very understanding. 1462 01:29:00,690 --> 01:29:02,465 - We say a head case. - Yeah. 1463 01:29:04,274 --> 01:29:06,545 By the time Pemba got to Islamabad, 1464 01:29:06,546 --> 01:29:07,665 Marco was gone, 1465 01:29:07,666 --> 01:29:10,801 and all the major news people left too. 1466 01:29:10,802 --> 01:29:11,921 It never occurred to them 1467 01:29:11,922 --> 01:29:14,865 that maybe he'd have something to say. 1468 01:29:14,866 --> 01:29:17,008 What happened on K2, 1469 01:29:17,009 --> 01:29:18,545 the story of the rescue, 1470 01:29:18,546 --> 01:29:24,369 is that I tried for three or four hours 1471 01:29:24,370 --> 01:29:26,960 to give help to those boys. 1472 01:29:26,961 --> 01:29:30,992 It's something that just came 1473 01:29:30,993 --> 01:29:36,080 from my heart. 1474 01:29:36,081 --> 01:29:41,231 It was after that that I paid the consequences. 1475 01:29:41,232 --> 01:29:42,927 What Marco did on the mountain... 1476 01:29:42,928 --> 01:29:44,143 nobody can take that away from him. 1477 01:29:44,144 --> 01:29:45,455 He was a hero on the mountain. 1478 01:29:45,456 --> 01:29:46,703 I mean, the family always- to this day, 1479 01:29:46,704 --> 01:29:48,239 the family have said, "Marco did what he could do." 1480 01:29:48,240 --> 01:29:49,240 "He was a hero." 1481 01:29:51,952 --> 01:29:53,711 But the stories were changing from Marco 1482 01:29:53,712 --> 01:29:56,270 from what he originally came outwith. 1483 01:29:56,271 --> 01:29:57,967 He said that Ger was always ahead, 1484 01:29:57,968 --> 01:30:00,270 that Ger abandoned him. 1485 01:30:00,271 --> 01:30:03,377 Within a day or two, the stories were-were rife in the papers. 1486 01:30:09,327 --> 01:30:11,918 Marco was the last living witness 1487 01:30:11,919 --> 01:30:13,486 to have seen Ger. 1488 01:30:13,487 --> 01:30:15,885 So for to hear these stories that Ger was always ahead, 1489 01:30:15,886 --> 01:30:17,549 he was hallucinating, 1490 01:30:17,550 --> 01:30:20,301 his body was splattered all over the mountain- 1491 01:30:20,302 --> 01:30:21,781 this was heartbreaking for us, like. 1492 01:30:24,622 --> 01:30:26,285 He changed his story several times, 1493 01:30:26,286 --> 01:30:32,100 which certainly didn't help make things clear. 1494 01:30:33,869 --> 01:30:38,412 And... and, you know, his story had a lot of clout 1495 01:30:38,413 --> 01:30:41,068 because everyone else was gone, 1496 01:30:41,069 --> 01:30:43,212 everyone else had perished. 1497 01:30:43,213 --> 01:30:46,316 So you can say whatever you want. 1498 01:30:46,317 --> 01:30:51,851 There's no one there to contradict what you say, 1499 01:30:51,852 --> 01:30:52,887 except for Pemba. 1500 01:30:54,828 --> 01:30:57,131 See, all we have is a story to cling onto, 1501 01:30:57,132 --> 01:30:59,051 and-and now all the stories are different. 1502 01:30:59,052 --> 01:31:01,515 And it's very hard, do you know? 1503 01:31:01,516 --> 01:31:03,050 Every story's different, 1504 01:31:03,051 --> 01:31:04,043 and that's all we have. 1505 01:31:04,044 --> 01:31:05,546 We've no body. 1506 01:31:05,547 --> 01:31:06,858 But why we are asking... 1507 01:31:06,859 --> 01:31:09,706 because now I, what your story says 1508 01:31:09,707 --> 01:31:12,490 is that you were a little bit lower 1509 01:31:12,491 --> 01:31:14,282 than the body of Gerard, so... 1510 01:31:14,283 --> 01:31:17,738 Two fresh Sherpas forcing by Korean leader 1511 01:31:17,739 --> 01:31:19,785 reach Korean, 1512 01:31:19,786 --> 01:31:23,977 just top section of the couloir. 1513 01:31:23,978 --> 01:31:27,817 And then they are descending together. 1514 01:31:27,818 --> 01:31:29,481 I thought they were already dead, 1515 01:31:29,482 --> 01:31:30,569 the three who were hanging, 1516 01:31:30,570 --> 01:31:32,009 but probably they had been moving then. 1517 01:31:32,010 --> 01:31:36,841 Yeah, then same time, 1518 01:31:36,842 --> 01:31:39,305 three, four times, the serac fell down. 1519 01:31:39,306 --> 01:31:40,456 Multi times serac... 1520 01:31:40,457 --> 01:31:42,761 Pemba was the missing piece of the jigsaw. 1521 01:31:42,762 --> 01:31:44,969 He held the key to a lot of people's questions. 1522 01:31:46,697 --> 01:31:49,864 Ger had given his camera to Pemba at the summit, 1523 01:31:49,865 --> 01:31:52,936 so Pemba had (Bar's camera coming down and all. 1524 01:31:52,937 --> 01:31:55,611 And he continued to take pictures of what was happening. 1525 01:32:00,008 --> 01:32:01,415 It was obvious, then, why Ger refused 1526 01:32:01,416 --> 01:32:02,791 to come down the mountain. 1527 01:32:02,792 --> 01:32:03,964 There was people in trouble. 1528 01:32:05,736 --> 01:32:08,103 Ger was never going to, 1529 01:32:08,104 --> 01:32:09,384 never going to leave them after. 1530 01:32:12,136 --> 01:32:15,910 It would have destroyed him to just leave the Koreans. 1531 01:32:15,911 --> 01:32:17,255 It would have ate away, 1532 01:32:17,256 --> 01:32:23,400 and it would've haunted him day and night, I think. 1533 01:32:25,319 --> 01:32:28,006 At first, we weren't told that Ger had gone back up. 1534 01:32:28,007 --> 01:32:30,009 That came out a little bit later. 1535 01:32:35,366 --> 01:32:37,125 When we met, Pemba knew something 1536 01:32:37,126 --> 01:32:40,069 that we didn't know at that point- 1537 01:32:40,070 --> 01:32:42,629 that second radio call. 1538 01:32:42,630 --> 01:32:43,877 Go ahead, Pasang. 1539 01:32:43,878 --> 01:32:47,758 I am here with the Korean team. 1540 01:32:48,934 --> 01:32:51,813 They met the Koreans at the top of the bottleneck. 1541 01:32:55,237 --> 01:32:58,851 That means they traveled from where they were stuck, 1542 01:32:58,852 --> 01:33:01,162 all the way across the traverse. 1543 01:33:03,525 --> 01:33:04,836 Ger freed them. 1544 01:33:04,837 --> 01:33:06,976 There was no one else there to do it. 1545 01:33:10,500 --> 01:33:11,715 In our own team, 1546 01:33:11,716 --> 01:33:13,987 we would have done everything for each other. 1547 01:33:13,988 --> 01:33:15,299 But what did Gerard- 1548 01:33:15,300 --> 01:33:17,155 not only in his own team... he... he... 1549 01:33:17,156 --> 01:33:18,914 he fight for his life 1550 01:33:18,915 --> 01:33:21,418 and even for the life of the Koreans. 1551 01:33:25,187 --> 01:33:27,458 Had they made it down to Camp Four safely, 1552 01:33:27,459 --> 01:33:30,498 it would be one of the most amazing stories 1553 01:33:30,499 --> 01:33:33,826 in mountaineering history, you know? 1554 01:33:33,827 --> 01:33:36,514 But instead, because they got hit by ice, 1555 01:33:36,515 --> 01:33:37,505 it's a tragedy, 1556 01:33:37,506 --> 01:33:39,543 and then it becomes a controversy. 1557 01:33:48,130 --> 01:33:51,600 Ger was true to his nature to the very end. 1558 01:33:53,186 --> 01:33:54,790 That's who he- that's who he was. 1559 01:34:00,300 --> 01:34:10,500 Ger McDonnell was the first Irishman to reach the summit of K2. 1560 01:34:15,360 --> 01:34:17,856 If it takes 100 years, 1561 01:34:17,857 --> 01:34:19,839 the truth will have to be recognized 1562 01:34:19,840 --> 01:34:24,186 by those to Whom the verdict of history belongs. 1563 01:34:26,016 --> 01:34:28,447 Oftentimes, when somebody does lose a life, 1564 01:34:28,448 --> 01:34:32,286 what went down is held, you know, 1565 01:34:32,287 --> 01:34:33,983 up under the microscope. 1566 01:34:33,984 --> 01:34:35,774 And some people might say, "They should have done this, 1567 01:34:35,775 --> 01:34:38,366 and they shouldn't have done that." 1568 01:34:38,367 --> 01:34:40,126 Just because you survive the mountain 1569 01:34:40,127 --> 01:34:41,822 doesn't make you an expert, and it doesn't- 1570 01:34:41,823 --> 01:34:44,286 I don't think that it gives you any right to- 1571 01:34:44,287 --> 01:34:46,365 to say that somebody made a mistake, you know, 1572 01:34:46,366 --> 01:34:47,646 because you just- you know, 1573 01:34:47,647 --> 01:34:50,557 when you Weren't there, you don't know. 1574 01:34:50,558 --> 01:34:53,903 Only the mountain knows. 1575 01:35:03,100 --> 01:35:08,300 Marco's attempt to rescue the Sherpa climber was an honor for his family. 1576 01:35:09,500 --> 01:35:11,500 Despite losing all his toes due to frostbite, Marco continues to climb 1577 01:35:11,510 --> 01:35:15,010 with another survivor of the 2008 K2 expedition. 1578 01:35:17,500 --> 01:35:23,700 In January 2010, Cecilie Skog became the first woman to cross Antarctica on skis without auxiliary sails. 1579 01:35:26,000 --> 01:35:32,000 Wilco van Rooijen is the only mountaineer to have survived two nights under the stars on K2. 1580 01:35:34,120 --> 01:35:39,320 He lost all his toes due to frostbite. 1581 01:35:41,070 --> 01:35:43,070 The leader of the Korean team, Kim Jae-Soo, makes non-compliance with various agreements 1582 01:35:43,070 --> 01:35:48,270 above Camp Four responsible for the incidents. 1583 01:35:50,200 --> 01:35:53,200 He did not want to be interviewed for this film. 1584 01:35:55,300 --> 01:36:00,200 Pemba Gyalje Sherpa spent 90 hours in the death zone. 70 of them rescuing the missing climbers. 1585 01:36:02,500 --> 01:36:06,000 Six months later he was named Adventurer of the Year by National Geographic. 1586 01:36:08,050 --> 01:36:11,150 In 1994, 40 years after the ascent of K2, the Italian Alpine Club recognized Walter Bonatti's achievements as essential to Italy's success. 1587 01:36:11,200 --> 01:36:13,200 He died in September 2011. 1588 01:36:16,000 --> 01:36:24,700 Hoselito Bite made a memorial plaque for Ger McDonnell and placed it at the Gilkey Memorial. 117538

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