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[playing tango]

[Anne-Sophie] I’m a chef.
I mean, I don’t really attach
an importance to the fact uh...

woman or male chef.
We are all chefs.

That’s really the problem
to enhance women chefs. That
means we categorize them.

[Angela] Yeah, I remember
growing up and going back
and crying and my mom goes:

“Why are you going back?”
I said: “I just need
to do a year, Mom.

Once I’ve done a year,
then that’s it. That opens
every door to me.

I’ve proved myself.”
And, you know, and I did.

[Amanda] I always say that I
wasn’t really ever harassed
because I was a woman,

I was just harassed ‘cause I was
a human and chefs are like,
equal opportunity assholes.

They’ll harass anybody they
see who’s weaker than them.

[Ivy] There’s no time if you’re
slammed on a Friday night to say

“I’m sorry I called you
a fucking whore.
Shut the fuck up.

Take the dick out of your ass
and get this shit done.”

[Suzanne] When I walk in,
I’m gonna respect you,

but I’m gonna command
the respect back.

And once we kinda are on the
same page, then we’re good.

[playing tango]

[seagulls cawing]

[jazz music]

[Victoria]
Pick up squash, please?
It’s gonna be for Table 21.

- Angel? Can you help me
with the uh... tempura?
- [Angel] Yeah.

[Victoria]
Uh... And guys? Pass me
the two terrines right now,

so I can put them on a plate,
OK? So they can temper.

Women have been cooking forever.
Women have been
the one that cooked

for the chef or the man
that became a chef.

Usually it’s like, “Oh, my mom
used to cook this for me.”

And I was like,
"OK so women have been
cooking all this time,

but you can’t make it to
the professional side?"

That is the irony of this,
you know what I mean?

It’s not like you always recall
your dad cooking for you.

- Burger medium is three.
- Burger medium, three.

- Bar 4 is summer squash, no uni.
- Bar 4 is summer squash, no uni.

I’m not sure whether
things have improved for women
that much in the kitchen.

The fight and the struggle
and the complaints are still
the same.

We are a little bit more like
the chervil on the salad.

We are some kind of garnish
because it looks good.

You know? Like people need to
see that you’re promoting women.

OK, Victor. You’re going
tartare, yes?

I’m from Chile.
Santiago, Chile.

My mom raised me
to believe I could do
whatever I wanted to do.

Probably that was her mistake.

- Uh... Matteo, have you
touched base with table 11?
- Not yet.

Because his order fired
the wrong food and also
they were waiting, OK?

- I spoke with him.
- So can someone
tell me what’s going on?

Uh... He wants his cod.

- Great. He’s a pescatarian,
but we ordered duck. OK.
- [cook] Yeah.

- He did not order duck.
- Huh?

-He didn’t order the duck.
-That’s what I’m saying.
Dan ordered a duck.

- Yes.
- Anyways, seat 1,
seat 2 is bok choy.

Seat 1, seat 2 is squash.
Seat 3, seat 4 carpaccio.

- Go all the way on 23.
- [cook] 23.

Vito, you have the...
the face of death. This is
a restaurant. Shit happens, OK?

Chumley’s was first
opened in 1922.

You know, Hemingway and all
these famous writers would come
here and basically hang out.

[Victoria] Ordering duck.
Order fire carpaccio, tartare.

My dream is to have
my own restaurant

and express myself with
more freedom than I have here.

Like a blank canvas
for me to paint.

It’s how do I express
myself on a plate.

[Amanda] I’m behind you.

Can I get the three
carrots on 305, please?

Dirt Candy is an all-vegetable
restaurant in Manhattan
on the Lower East Side.

[waiter] Alright, guys. OK, so
this is the Brussels sprout
tacos. Be careful...

[Amanda] What we do here is
we celebrate vegetables.

There’s restaurants that are
vegetable forward, but
they still serve a little meat,

but we are the only ones who
have taken huge leap of faith
and said:

“Just come to the restaurant
for the vegetables.”

With the fennels on the
bottom layer, we have
the carta di musica,

which is really just
fancy Italian for cracker.

Then we have some caramelized
yogurt, caramelized fennel,

ginger cream, cherry purée,
dehydrated...

I think you have too much butter
and not enough salt.

- Not enough salt,
too much butter?
- In this.

This is fine. A little bit
more salt would be fine.

Only because you’re compensating
for the vegetables.

Overcooked.
Too salty.

You could have tried
to be better on camera.

-Uhm... Wait, OK.
My question was...
-Just say “Yes, Chef.”

- Yes, Chef.
- Yes.

I’m proud to be a woman chef.

There’s a huge number of
women chefs cooking

and we just don’t
talk about them.

And yet somehow people still
think they’re actually

aren’t a lot of
female chefs or women chefs

because they’re not really
the ones written about.

And they’re not
the important ones.

And so that’s the uphill battle.

If you don’t keep
talking about us,

then we’re not
gonna have a place.

We’re gonna keep
getting pushed aside.

You can start with this.
Big table. Just put it
down in the middle.

My big issue with the industry
is in the media.

There’s sort of been
this refusal to celebrate
female chefs.

You see this
over and over again on the...

the big awards and the best
new chefs list,
best new restaurants.

They tend to be male chefs.

It’s always like,
one woman and nine men
on a cover.

The reason women don’t have
those kinds of restaurants
is because

they tend to open more
mom-and-pop restaurants

because they’re only able
to get a little bit of money.

Without that financial backing,
it’s really hard to get
on those covers.

It’s hard to win those awards

and so this cycle just
goes and goes and goes

and women keep getting left out
of this conversation.

[Anita] That’s really
the old boys’ club.

If you’re not white,
if you’re not straight, if...

you know, you don’t
really fit into a uhm...

a gender norm,
of course you’re angry.

And the media really
likes to celebrate
young, tough dudes

with a lot of like, tattoos.

What’s cool is,
“Hey, look at the giant tattoo

I got to cover
the giant scar I had.”

[Charlotte] Why do I think all
the guys get the attention?

'Cause they probably want it
more than we do.

“Look at me, look at me,
look at me.
The big swingin' dick scenario.

Like I’m large and in charge
and I’m fuckin’ fabulous
and I’m killing the game.”

I remember when
Kitchen Confidentialcame out.

I did read it in the first year
of college and I found it
very exciting

because it sounded like a...
a... a ride. Like a wild ride.

You know, everyone’s partying,
they’re living in these crazy
houses together

in the middle of L.A. or
New York and making it happen

and all the strife and struggle.
But the strife and struggle
sounded super sexy.

They’re badasses. They’re party
animals. They’re sleeping
with everybody.

They’re doing tons of drugs and
they’re getting away with it.

It adds a touch of melodrama
to our industry that
we eat like crazy.

[classical string music]

[Anita] There’s a saying
that men cook for glory
and women for love.

And if we do, it’s because of
how we were raised and of that
social construct.

But as a chef, you really wanna
be judged on your work,
you know?

Your gender really has
nothing to do with it.

Order in VIP a pierogi
and a tartare.

I’ve been running this
restaurant 17 years.

I mean, on some level it was
a compulsion. I felt compelled
to do this.

We’ve been bombarded
by images of

what it means to be female
and what it means to be male.

You know, growing up
in the Midwest was
difficult for me.

I consider myself
gender non-conforming.

I didn’t like wearing dresses.
You know, I was a tomboy.

I came from a very
food-obsessed family,

and, you know, on some level
it was sort of the best part
of my childhood.

So it’s interesting that I’ve...
I’ve turned that into a life.

I got three foie's
in the window.

[Amanda] Anita Lo is one of
the most amazing chefs
in this country.

You know, Annisa was this really
well-respected restaurant
in the city.

It had at one point
Michelin stars.

It had three stars
from the New York Times

and she defined a certain
place for female chefs
in this industry.

[Victoria] The first time that I
heard about Anita Lo at Annisa
was through my ex-father-in-law.

He was always trying to get
me to come to New York

because it’s like, “You see?
A woman can run a kitchen.

A woman can have a restaurant.
You should come to New York.”

And I was like, “OK, it sounds
amazing, but she is like,

the one.”You know? It’s like
one woman that is running
a restaurant.

I think it would have been
really helpful, you know,
to have a role model.

You know, I’d never worked
for a female chef.

Uhm... There weren’t
a lot of them out there,

especially in fine dining,
which was what I wanted to do.

There weren’t, you know,
people of color or gay people.

So, I felt a deep responsibility
to be a mentor.

You know, I think that’s
probably important for
some young women

to see that it’s possible, yeah.

[Suzanne] And Em, as soon as you
can, can you pick up for
Booth 1, please?

Alright, Justin. We got a soca,
a burger and a lamb.

[cook] Fritter, squash.

One burger going to 15.
Other burger going to table 13.

- Let’s get that mac
up right now.
- Yes.

- Let’s get that rice right now
inside of that pan.
- Yes, Chef. Got it.

I’m not gonna tell you
how to run your kitchen.

I’m not gonna tell you about
what kitchens are better
than other kitchens,

but I’m gonna tell you
how I run my kitchen.

Working in the industry for
10 years before opening
this restaurant, I realized that

there were lots of voids in
the kitchens that I worked in.

And that was
not seeing enough women.

Order up, Chef. Mac.

- Yup. Going to table... Booth 1.
- Order up.

I thought, “Wow. Wouldn’t it be
awesome if we could create

a space that they can come
and gain some skill sets.

We can run the kitchen,
dominate the kitchen in
a very male-dominated industry.

- May I have that
cornbread, please?
- Yup. Cutting it right now.

[Suzanne] Hands, please?
One soca going to table 14.

I’ve been operating
this restaurant for
about three years.

Myself and my husband, Johnnie.

Myles is here quite regularly.
He knows the staff.

When we opened the restaurant,
friends would come and

take him on a stroll in the
neighborhood if he was crying.

Customers would take him
if I was on the line.

He was on my back, strapped
to my back when I was cooking.

- What colors today?
- We’re a small restaurant,
like any mom and pop.

'Cause that’s really at the
end of the day what we are.

[Johnnie]
That’s the one? Yeah.

[Suzanne] It’s a very
personal space.

Can you pick up this mac &
cheese going to booth 1, please?
Thank you.

Yeah, being a woman of color,
I’m not gonna be,

you know, that stereotype
that you expect me to be.

The first thing my father
said is: “No daughter of mine

is gonna go and work for some
white person in their kitchen
and cook their food.

I don’t want that for you.
I didn’t do that.

I don’t want you to be
working as someone’s slave.”

You look at the images and the
history of the mammy characters.

The nannies that, you know,
are always kept in the back
that prepare the food,

take care of the children and
the roles of black women and
what we’ve been known for.

You know, I’m part American.
I’m... I’m part Canadian.

I’m dual citizen.
So it’s a part of my history

and it’s also a part of
the history of what I know
of diners

and the sit-in movement
in the Deep South.

You know, when I think about
what my life would’ve been like
if I was,

you know, living in, say,
the South in the United States

in the 1950s opening up
a restaurant as a black woman
with a white husband?

This shit would not happen.

I often get asked to do
pastries and I’m like...

Well, sometimes I get asked
to do pastries or desserts
for events and I say:

“Do I look like a pastry chef?
I’m the fish girl."

I’ve been a chef for
approximately 12 years.

And it’s been about a year and a
half, two years, since I haven’t

been in a traditional
restaurant environment.

When someone says:
“You’re a woman chef",
I don’t really hear that.

I just hear ‘chef’.
Chef is a chef is a chef.

I left the industry to find
a way to make my own company.

I wanted to fund it myself,
build it myself and make it
happen on my own.

I was more emotionally
burnt out, I think,
than... than physically.

I was tired of being the
money maker for somebody else.

Everybody’s just trying to make
a buck. No one really cares
as much as they used to.

Fuck you.
I’m out.

So basically,
I’m a non-traditional chef.

I’ve always wanted
to own my own restaurant,

but I don’t have
half a million dollars.

Where am I even gonna
think about getting that?

In the meantime, what do I do?

[jazzy music]

[Angela] I never thought
that cooking would explode
the way it has.

Chefs are on TV. Chefs have
become these superstars.

People suddenly look at cooking
and restaurants as sexy.

You know, 30, 40 years ago,
everyone used to think

you only wanted to be a chef
because you were thick.

- Shut the fuck up.
- [cook] Yes, Chef.

- One spaghetti of lobster.
- Yes, Chef.

- One scallops.
- Yes, Chef.

Now, would you like me
to fuckin’

- email that to your Blackberry?
- No, Chef.

- Move your ass.
- Yes, Chef.

[Angela] New order. One rabbit
du jour, one crab du jour.

- Follow one cod, one rump du
jour, ça marche.
- [cooks] Oui.

[kitchen noises]

[Angela] No oil on top of this.
Service, please.
Let’s go. Table 16.

[Oscar] One veg, two coming?

[Angela] I’ve been a chef
probably for the last 30 years.

My main mentor was
Gordon Ramsay.

You know, I started with him
uhm... probably when I was
about 23, 24,

and then worked for Gordon
for about 17 years
in various restaurants.

Right. How long, guys?

- 10 seconds on the
rabbit pappardelle.
- Yeah.

When I started working
they had... all had a bet.

They all said you know, give...
she’ll do two days, two weeks,
two months, whatever.

'Cause there hadn’t been a woman
who had worked there for
a full year anyway

and they just didn’t think
anyone would last.

I mean, it was nuts and you
know, I constantly... I used to
look at my week and think,

God, I haven’t had a bollocking,
I haven’t been shouted at
and I’d then sort of get to

Thursday and then suddenly
it would happen and I’d be like,
“Oh my God. Here we go.”

And my aim was to always to try
and get to Saturday without
a bollocking.

And eventually you did,
‘cause you got better.

[Angela] Ça marche. One eel,
one egg truffle, to follow two
egg truffle.

How long for the ham?

[Angela] I used to just
think Gordon was mad

when he used to
kick off and stuff.

I just don’t see the point.

There’s times where I’ve got
so angry and, you know,

and I can feel my face getting
red and my neck and stuff

and then I’m like “Oh, my God.”
And then you’re so stressed
for the next hour.

It’s not worth it.

Service. Oh, you’re there.

Where’s the other one?
We need two.

Let’s go, please.
You’re going to

table 14, yeah?

[Angela] My first Michelin star
was at The Connaught Hotel.

We opened at The Connaught after
there had been a hundred years
of male chefs.

You know, and there was uproar.
People were so...

There were some people that
hated the fact I’d gone
in there.

I mean, I had this amazing
receptionist at the time, Lydia,

and uhm... this guy kept coming
and every time he came
he moaned and complained.

And he was an old regular
that came for years

and he rang up and he said:
“Is she still there?”,
talking about me.

Lydia goes: “Yeah, yeah.
Angela’s still the chef.”

“Oh, well I’ll have a table” and
then what I loved about Lydia,
she goes:

“Why do you want a table?
You don’t like it here.

You like The Connaught, but you
don’t like the fact we’re here.

You don’t like Angela, so why
do you want to come and
upset yourself?"

You know, and I thought,
“Brilliant!”

Where we’re sitting
now is Murano.

So, Gordon and I opened
Murano in 2008

and then uhm... 2011 I bought
Gordon out of our partnership
and now I’m my own boss.

Right. Service, please.

[Angela] But the amount of
people that will go,

“God, it’s calm. Isn’t it?" And,

“Why aren’t you shouting
and swearing?”

As if that’s what they expect
and I go, “We don’t do that.”

And you know... And people will
go: “Oh, go on, shout at them”,

you know, and it's like,
“What do you want?”

Right. Let’s get plates out,
Martina. How long on that
guinea fowl cod?

[Angela] That doesn’t mean to
say that I’m not direct in my
approach when things go wrong.

Why is the food going cold?
Why is the food not hot
at the table?

Why did they wait?
You know, come on.

But I don’t need to swear
and shout at them

to get those answers.

Let’s go. Table 5. Lovely.

[rhythmic music]

[Ivy] A kitchen is not exactly
the most hospitable place
for a woman

or for anybody who has
any kind of thoughts
about equal rights

or you know, fair treatment.

It’s not a place for
the faint of heart.

Hello there. Welcome to
86'd Mondays. I’m your host,
Ivy Knight, and

tonight is the first
ever preserved fish battle.

[Ivy] I’ve been hosting events
for eight years
at the Drake Hotel.

- So take a station over
there. That’s fine.
- [man] OK.

I was a cook for 10 years.

At the 5 year mark,
I realized I didn’t have
the proper temperament

to be a head chef
and I wanted to write.

So I spent the next 5 years
in kitchens sort of working
towards getting out of them.

The thing that I rallied against
was how much we were
exploited as cooks

and how much work was expected
of us for so little pay.

Yeah, I’ll bring out
two spoons. The spaghetti
that was taking me a long time.

[Amanda]
It is a tough place to work, and
I think because you’re cooking,

you’re playing with fire,
things go wrong a lot and fast.

Please. Please. One tower.
Just figure out something.

Any kind of pockys.
Anything. I don’t care.

I just need the tower.
No, just give me anything.

Five minutes on 15.

[Charlotte] It’s a very
high-stress environment.
Hot temperatures.

Like, you know, you’re standing
in front of a 400, 500 degree
oven for hours

in the middle of summer
with no air conditioning.

You’re frustrated, exhausted.

And the environment is so
volatile that the worst of
people can come out.

[Victoria] What do you need?
Let’s not do this.
-Nothing.

-What is it that you need?
What does he need?
-Nothing.

Since you screwed up already,
I really don’t wanna

know anything else, OK?
Thank you.

My usual schedule is like 6 days
a week, 12 to 14 hours a day.

I think pressure
sometimes can get to you.

And if you have an unbalanced
life, you’re gonna be
an unbalanced human being.

That is obvious that we’re not
the most balanced bunch,
you know what I mean?

After that bok choy,
give me a tartare lonely, OK?

[Ivy] If you can’t keep up,
get the fuck out.

There’s no time for thoughtful
chats about beet rude.

Fuck off.
Just get it done.

So unfortunately,
these can’t go out.
It’s too late.

I’m sorry, but they have to
come together. You guys
have to count.

It’s one mini vegan,
two regulars,
all at the same time.

I can’t send out to one half of
the table some food and not
the other half.

You know, people say the oil,
the knives, I mean... You know,
people exaggerate that.

They think everyone’s walking
around with a knife
and just ready to stab.

I mean, you know,
I... You know, it’s hard but
Christ alive, we’re not...

you know, it’s not like that.
I mean, at least not in any
kitchen I’ve worked in.

- Hi, Ivy!
- Hi. So we’re gonna start
in like, four minutes.

I’m ready to rock and roll.

OK, here’s how it’s gonna go.

The culture is similar to

frat boy culture
or hazing culture.

The newest cooks are the ones
who are picked on,

and as you fight your way up
through the ranks,

then eventually when you’re
in power you just repeat
the same cycle of abuse.

They break you down
to build you back up.

Or they continue to break you
down to keep you down,
so you know your position.

- One bread pudding.
- Bread pudding.

- Livers are ready, yeah?
- Got it. Yeah.

I didn’t come from that.
I chose not to put myself
in that circumstance

and so why would I do
that in my own kitchen?

- Still hot?
- Yup.

- Just came out.
- Yeah. Alright.

I don’t think...
I could be wrong,

but I don’t think that in
the corporate world 9 to 5,

that it’s typical for a guy
to throw a woman over...

over a table and to pretend to,
like, simulate fucking her
from behind,

but that happens all the time.
Or it happened to me
all the time.

I wasn’t crying and calling up
a rape counselor because

it was part of the culture.

I basically turned into
a little shithead guy.

I just wanted to be accepted
and part of the team.

[Anita]
I did feel like I had
to be one of the boys.

But on some level I also grew up
feeling like I wasn’t
one of the girls, so...

You know, I certainly...
You know, I was never
the femmy girl.

So, I was already such
an otherthat I’m so used
to not being...

part of... any situation that...

you know, by the time I got to
the kitchen, I was just an...
it was just old hat.

[Charlotte] “Have you ever been
assaulted? Have you ever been
sexually harassed?”

I’m like “Yeah, of course. It’s
sort of a part of the language
of the kitchen.”

When I had my first chef
position, I was like

“I’m gonna hire only 18 year old
boys. They’re gonna do all
the heavy lifting.

I’m gonna make them like, put
that down, pick it up, put it...

You know, I was...
That was my mentality
when I first... I was 23.

[Charlotte] Oil and vinegar
shrimp and smoked shrimp
with kimchi. Enjoy.

[Charlotte] I’m just gonna hire
hot guys to do
all my work for me.

And I’m just gonna be
like this, you know.

I’m gonna have a...
a harem of young men.

I developed a bit of
a language where I was
verbally harassing people.

Very flirty, very open
and very like, physical,
touching people like...

So I realized that that dialogue
and that language of in...

Like, what I trained
and what I saw,
as soon as I had the power

to be in charge and to lead,
I used that same language.

But I didn’t even think about it
as being a negative thing.

And then I realized that
I’m also a part of the problem.

Enjoy. Crackers.
You’re in, you're golden.

Yeah, I was assaulted
by my sous-chef.

And I should be clear
it wasn’t sexual assault.

He just hated me as a person.
I don’t think it mattered
that I was a woman.

I think it was a Saturday night
service. It was midnight.
We were finally closing.

It had been a brutal service
and he told me to
take apart my stove

and start scrubbing it down,

and I said: “No.
There’s no way I’m doing that.

That’s just you... That’s just
something you’ve made up
as a punishment

and there’s no way.
I don’t get paid
to do this shit.”

So I was talking back to him.
And he started tell... saying:
“Yes, you are. Yes, you will.”

And I... I screamed at him
and I said: “Go fuck yourself.”
And I walked away

and he came running after
me and he threw me down.

And he had a clipboard and he...

The clipboard was jammed
under my neck like this
and I couldn’t breathe.

And all I could see was
his face and the giant vein

on his forehead just pulsing
and his red face screaming.

And I was kicking out ‘cause
I was against the counter

and I was kicking out
and I finally connected with
his knee, I think.

I connected with some part of
his leg and he let me go
and I ran out the door.

And I told the owner the next
day. I sat down with her.

I was still, like, shocked
that this had happened

and I started crying
and she said: “Suck it up.

Get... What’s wrong with you?
You should have done
what he told you to do.”

I was in the wrong
and I didn’t respect him and
he could do whatever he liked.

[Amanda] If we don’t talk about
these things, it’s never
gonna get better.

It’s hard to talk about it.
It’s not always fun being the
first person to talk about it.

Uh... But you have to.

How do other people learn
if you don’t talk about it?

[rhythmic music]

You know, assault is wrong.
Sexual assault is wrong.
Abuse is wrong.

I’ve had many conversations.
I was actually asked to speak

about a chef that uhm...
was accused with assault uh...
not long ago,

and I said, like: “Listen,
I can’t speak to this because

this person that I know
has never assaulted me.

This person has always
supported me as a mentor,
as a colleague.”

So, it’s very complicated.

We have heard a lot of
these stories about this
kind of behavior in kitchens.

The only way that’s gonna change
is if chefs change it.

The chef who was in that kitchen
has to dictate the culture
of that kitchen.

[guitar music]

- Hi. Hi.
- Hello to mama?

- Hi.
- Hello, mom.

- Hi. Come. Let’s go inside.
- OK.

[Suzanne] Do you wanna see
Kid Chocolate? Have you seen
the work that Daddy did?

So Myles, come, come. Let me
show you. Let me show you.
Let me show you Mommy’s kitchen.

See? So here’s the sink.

So this... So we’ll be doing
dishes here and then we’ll have
the food that comes up here.

Here’s a working refrigerator.

This is gonna be a steam table.

- This is Mommy’s
shiny new kitchen.
- Yeah.

Isn’t it nice? It’s a lot
smaller. It’s quite different
than the other one, yeah?

So there have been some changes.

[Suzanne] We had to close our
doors to Saturday Dinette
unexpectedly.

We’ve had some real problems
with our landlords and we had
to break our lease early.

Come on let’s go.

[Suzanne] Saturday Dinette was
going to be a support

while we were building out,
but now with that financial
support gone,

our thought has to shift a bit.

We have to really re-think
how are we going

to fund the opening
of a new project?

I love you. Keep going.
Alright, I’ll call you later.

Kid Chocolate really is
Johnnie’s baby and he’s

been doing all the renovations
through this whole process.

It’s uh... Yeah, it’s been
a journey, but that’s
the Dinette

and this is Kid Chocolate.

Such a shame.

There’s so many good
things about that space.

You know, it was 3 years of...
of my life.

And that may not seem like a lot
of time, but it was definitely
such an important time.

My son was almost born
in that... you know,
in that restaurant.

I’ll always have
a connection to the space.

[Suzanne] That was my
everything. That was my baby.

- Hi. How are you?
- Good, thanks.

- Thank you.
- Thank you.

- Have a good day.
- You, too.

- [man] What’s up, Chef?
- [Anita] Hey, how are you?

- Good. How are you?
- [Anita] Good.

[Anita] There’s just so many
moving parts in a restaurant.

One month some... you know,
50 thousand dollar piece
of equipment could go down,

and... you know,
do you have that or not?

You know, we don’t really get
into this to be business people

or even to make money
on some level,

but, uh... if you don’t,
you can’t... you can’t cook.

But it’s always stressful.

You know, even when
you’re doing well,
it can be stressful.

So I’ve announced that uhm...
we’re going to be closing at
the end of May.

You know, we’ve got
four weeks left.

You know, I’ve been doing this
for almost 30 years.

I’d like to see
what else I can do.

[Amanda] Anita was so important
in this city and we wanna
make sure that uh...

female chefs aren’t
a dying breed.

We have to keep pushing it
for more and more recognition

uh... so that other female chefs
who are coming up behind us

realize that there is a place
for them in this industry.

We tend to write women chefs
out of the history of chefdom.

The most famous uh... woman chef
who was uh... written out of

uh... history is
Eugénie Brazier,

who was one of the uh...
grand mèresof uh... Lyon.

That was the 1930s.
1933 or so.

Eugénie Brazier had gone
to Paris and she had

three restaurants
and she ended up with like,
six Michelin stars.

Hugely celebrated.

And then time goes on,
time goes on, da-da-da.

This is... That was
a number of years ago,

Alain Ducasse gets
his sixth Michelin star,

and everyone writes about him
being the first person
in history

who has ever gotten
six Michelin stars.

But she was actually
the first. And...

So, that’s what I mean
when women are
written out of history.

We’ve forgotten that part of it.

[calm piano music]

[Anne-Sophie] When I started
working, I didn’t really care
about all the women.

I just wanted men
recognize me as a chef.

But now, uh... I feel
that we have to be more...

Uhm... all together the women
in the kitchen to be more
solidaire.

I have seven
uh... Michelin stars.

I have three Michelin stars
here in Valence.

In France, I’m the only
woman to have three stars

and in the world uh...
there is only six women
to have three stars or more.

It’s 25 years I am
in the kitchen,

but I was not a chef
from the beginning.

I uh... decided to return home

uh... after my studies
because I wanted to learn
how to cook.

When I decided to return,

I could not imagine it would
be so hard, so difficult

because I, I could not imagine
my father passed away a few
months after I came back.

The 30s or the 40s uh...
with my grandfather,

it didn’t make a difference
between a woman or a man
in the kitchen.

After, during my father’s
period, it was different.

I was uh... how to say
at the beginning, very uhm...

uh... respectful for history
and uh... I was afraid to do
something wrong.

Then I gained more
self-confidence. It was
little by little. Step by step.

I have the palette, so it was
something, a reference for me
what was important.

Something I was
sure of was that.

[Anne-Sophie]
But technically, uh...
I had to learn so many things.

No.

- [Laura] How many lamb on there?
- [waiter] I’ve got one lamb.

- [Laura] Rump? Du jour?
- Not du jour. No. À la carte.

Ça marche, uh... six covers.
Table 14. Two squash,
one risotto à la carte, one eel,

two rabbit à la carte, one
radishes. To follow, two beef,

- one brill, one lamb à la carte,
one monkey.
- [cooks] Yeah, yeah.

[Angela] Historically, a kitchen
brigade, which is basically

the kitchen team that follow
those French traditions.

Oscar is the head chef, so,
his overall responsibility
for everything.

Um... Sous chefs you
have Martina and Emily.

[Emily] Can you make sure
there’s nice and salted, the
water and it’s boiling, yeah?

[Angela] And then you have guys
underneath that are all
the chefs de partie.

They’re the ones that then
run the sections.

The meat and fish,
pastry, garnish and larder.

They should be able
to do it all.

I think it’s changed a lot now.

I’ve never said to anyone,
“Call me Chef.”

I’m more than happy... I mean,
Oscar calls me Angela.
Laura calls me Angela.

- [Angela] Service.
- [Martina] Service, please.

[Angela] Let’s go.

[Angela] I certainly don’t worry
about it. I’m happy
being called Angela,

because if we want things
to change and we want people
to be treated equally,

I think that’s partly to do with
how you run it and how you work
in a kitchen.

Lemon.
Let’s go. Wait.

[Ivy]
The brigade system is based
on the military and that is

obvious if you looked
at it from a distance,

they look very similar, the
military and the kitchen world.

-[Oscar] Repeated sauces
Parparadelle and risotto
à la carte.

[all] Oui.

[Victoria]
Even though I may not
like the military,

I don’t know if it’s whether
because I come from Chile
or not, but...

it’s so structured,
but it makes so much sense.

Careful with the salt. Add a bit
of lemon. Yeah. That’s a little
heavy on the seasoning.

[Victoria] I would say it’s
about how you command, right?

So there is a chief of command,

that will be your
Chef de cuisine.

There is hierarchy.

Uhm... You listen
to one person

and that person says yes and no
and that’s what it is.

There’s no room for
“Oh, let’s just talk about it.”

- [Amanda] Where’s Jason? Jason.
- [Jason] Yes.

- Do you have
your zucchini batter set up?
- Yes.

It’s done? I’d like you
to take out the stove
and have it set up.

Heard.

I think actually that brigade,
hierarchal system is great.

I think it gives structure.
I think it’s terrific.

You know exactly who
your boss is.

You know what
the chain of command is.

No. Too many. You’re only...
You’re ever only allowed

to carry three things
at the very, very most.

The staff that I’m getting
is much, much younger.

I have like 19 year-olds
and 20 year-olds and

this is college for them and
structure isn’t a bad thing.

[Amanda] Jem, don’t leave your
towel on your counter. I will
remind you of that.

[Amanda] But I also tell
everybody, it’s just a job.
I’m gonna yell at you.

It’s gonna feel really tough
and in five minutes it’s done.

[Anita] For me as a young
person, when I went into that
militaristic brigade system,

it was a good time in my life
to have that kind of structure.
And I was happy for it.

That being said, I don’t think
I was that welcomed as...
as a female.

The first course is yellowfin
tuna crudo with avocado s’rug...
s’rug,

crispy chickpeas and
aleppo pepper. We’ve got
aleppo pepper downstairs.

So just have that
on your station.

[Anita] It was very difficult
learning how to uhm...

be a manager. It was one of
the most painful things.

You know, we’re supposed to
nurture and uh... we’re not
supposed to lead.

[Anita] OK, I would put them
in... What I would do is
put them in, uh...

- the... the four ounce molds.
- [cook] OK.

[Anita] Not too much.
It should be about the mushroom.
It’s not about the pastry.

Male chefs they want
to be there, you know.

“We are the chef. We do
everything. We shout, we...”

I don’t want to work like this.

When I did that I was not
concentrating on
the real things.

For me the real thing
is the taste.

[ANNE-SOPHIE] To be precise,
I’m very precise and I want

people to be precise and
they need to be precise.

Don’t grate your finger, Omri.
We love your fingers.

And remember, give me
the cookies and cream with rum.

- Not the one that
doesn’t have rum.
- [Omri] The rum. Yes.

- Omri?
- Yeah.

- Are you OK?
- Yeah.

I would appreciate the tone to
be a little bit different.

Yes, rum, OK, yes, OK? Cool.

- Yes, Chef.
- Wonderful.

I’m not gonna be disrespectful,
but I’m gonna be very direct.

No, you don’t wanna
flatten it out, Omri, man.

Man, it’s like let it flow
naturally, you know?
You don’t wanna...

[Victoria] I see a lot of... you
know, like a double standard.

If I am tough and
serious and direct,

I’m gonna be more criticized
instead of if I was a man.

If I were a man, no one
would say anything, but because

I’m a woman they’re like:
“Oh, she’s so difficult.”

You're supposed to be nicer.
You're supposed to be softer.
You're supposed to be sweeter.

[Victoria] Omri, Next time,
don’t ever... You need
way more color.

- Yeah.
- No, on this side.

There’s not enough color.
I’ve said that to you before.

Make sure you get good color.
You need the garlic oil,

- so pay more attention
to it, okay?
- Yes.

It’s something so simple as
a waffle and it’s kind of

funny and ridiculous
that at least

- you need to make sure
that the cooking is right.
- Yes, Chef.

Because if not, it’s
also funny, stupid and

- poorly executed, OK?
- OK.

[Angela] In London, there’s
four restaurants that
I’m associated with.

Murano’s the, if you like,
the figure head.

Then we have two café Muranos.
And then we have
Merchants Tavern.

It’s East End so it’s a bit
more quirky, but brilliant food.

[Angela] Why is it with
the mayonnaise and lemon?

- Is that what they’ve
put on the menu?
- [cook] Yeah.

Does it actually say "Haggis
croquettes with lemon and mayo"?

- Yeah.
- I’m gonna kill him.

You know, everyone presumed...
you know, the Midas touch,

but actually it’s not as
easy as everyone thinks.

[indistinct] in that,
and it’s not cooked, Joe.

[Angela] With more competition,
fewer staff, higher rents
and raises,

lots of things that are
contriving to make it
harder and harder daily.

- Guys, you need to have here,
We’re missing the sauces...
- [cook] Yes.

- For the side plates.
- [cook] Yes, Chef.

We’re missing the under plates.
I’ve said these are too small.

It’s like repeating
myself every day. No.

People do have this
misconception about when
they go to a restaurant,

I think they just think they’re
just paying for the actual food
on their plate,

and maybe the tip
to their server.

But really,
the price of the meal,

it’s like you’re renting
that table for the night.

They see a busy restaurant
and they think you’re making
a lot of money.

We do. We take in a ton
of money at Dirt Candy.
Probably close to like,

somewhere between $180,000
and $200,000 a month.

It also costs me about
$180,000, $200,000 a month
to run the restaurant.

You wanna take the wine
and you wanna smell it.

Show him how to uh... swirl
the wine so he opens it up.

Smell it a little bit. Now,
it’s... it’s gonna... Release
it. Try not to do it too much.

Alright, now. Yeah,
but get close. Put your nose in.
Don’t be afraid. Get close.

[Amanda] We made a couple
of really big changes.

We’re trying to up our game
and we’re now stepping
into fine dining.

[Michael] So, like I was saying
in those training, like,

you guys bring a certain element
of your personality

that is something that you
should continue to focus on.

[Amanda] We’ve had a front
of house consultant,
Michael Cherry,

the general manager at Annisa
come in and work with us.

Our servers have gone through
weeks and weeks of training

and we’ve sort of all been like,
re-learning all the recipes and
how to make them more precise

so that we really are
consistent and how to
slow down a little bit

so that we’re
doing a better job.

Alright. So now I’m waiting
for one, two, three
more towers.

We are not going down tonight.
We are not going down.

We are at 92
and we are not going down.

- No, leave all that.
- Oh, shit. Tower.

Tower goes to 301.
Adam, you will follow.

Not 301. Yes, 301.
Oh well, they went.

[Amanda] We have
a lot of growing pains.

Just sort of figuring out how
this whole new system works.

While we do sort of wanna
get new customers in,

we also wanna make sure that
we don’t offend everybody

who we used to have, and it is
this delicate balance.

[Travis] Thank you, folks.
Really appreciate your patience.
Sorry about that, guys.

So this is your salad course.
Uh... So we have these in tiers.

Bottom tier would be your
vegetables. Your middle is your
lettuce. With every lettuce...

With every salad you have
lettuce and then on top are
our croutons or breadsticks,

so uh... I’ll go one by one.
So, on the bottom you have some
hon shimeji mushrooms

and a mushroom milk, aguachile,
cucumbers and some melon.

Uh... I wanna see white truffle,
let’s push white truffle
and let’s push fish today.

Angela needs the whole truffle
for tonight’s dinner.

[Oscar] Um... So make sure,
please that everything is
nice and clean, OK?

[Angela] You can’t rest
on your laurels.

It’s not about
white tablecloths.

It’s not about glassware
and fancy pictures.

It’s about the consistency
of that food on the table.

But you know, sometimes
everyone’s now trying to be
so different from it

you know, you’ll go somewhere
and you know,

you’ll be lucky if you get
a glass, never mind a napkin.

And I’m going bloody...
I’d quite like a tablecloth and
I’d like not to be sitting next

to the table like this so I can
actually hear what I think.

And maybe I’m old,
but you know...

That’s not to say there’s not
a place for everything else,

but I think there still is
a place for

fine dining for want of
a better word, shall we say.

[Anne-Sophie] My father,
he, he trained me to taste.

Every time we share a lunch or
a dinner he was making some
remarks on what he was eating.

[gentle piano music]

[Anne-Sophie]
This is a lot of flavors.

So each member of the team
really has to really understand

where I want to go. It’s not
so easy. It’s more complex
to transmit.

Alright!
I just smashed it to get all
that butter and brown sugar

just like, I don't know,
so good. How are you guys
enjoying the tasting so far?

- [man] Oh, it’s awesome.
- Awesome. Have you
been here before?

- We have, but not
for the tasting menu.
- It’s really great.

- Yeah.
- Alright. Now we’re ready.

[Amanda] The funny thing
with a restaurant is...

it’s actually not always
about the food. It’s about
the whole show.

- [cook] And then we have our
lemonized cream.
- [man] Awesome.

[Amanda] I feel like going out
to eat should be like a party.

This is my party and you’ve come
to my house and I throw a party
every night

and hopefully you like it and
hopefully you have a good time.

I loved having dinner at
the table with my family.
I have a big family.

So for me though the memories
of food have less to do with
the actual food

and more to do with
all the circumstances
surrounding it,

which is a big part
of this restaurant.

I hope we’ve managed
to give you a really good time.

Yeah, your tasting hasn’t
even gotten good yet.

- You’re actually
at the bad part.
- The bad part?

- It gets really good.
- Time will tell.

This journalist goes,
“Do you think you could
write me 400 words, Angela?”

And I went “No!” I said...

[Angela] I like the camaraderie
in a kitchen. I like the banter.

Not to say everyone’s a saint.
You know, we all take the mickey

out of each other and we have
a laugh about things.

- Thank you.
- No, no. Not at all.

- Absolutely superb.
- Good. Yeah. No, no, no.

[Angela] And I like seeing
customers having a great time,

and you’ve been part of that.

When you know that someone’s had
a wonderful time
in your restaurant.

They’ve enjoyed the service.
They’ve enjoyed the food and
they’re very happy about it.

That’s a very good feeling.

- See you later.
- Bye bye.

[humming]

OK. How are we looking?

[Charlotte]
As a chef that has worked for
other employers for many years,

I wanted to have my own
opportunity to showcase what I
wanted to do and how I’d do it.

And I was like, well I’m gonna
throw a dinner party and
see if people wanna come.

So people are calling these
pop-ups, underground.
They’re top secret.

They’re exclusive or whatever.
I keep going back to that word

because they’re not
totally on the grid.

And that makes them have
actually a bit more panache.

- Hi. It’s a pleasure to
meet you. Valerie.
- Pleasure to meet you.

[Charlotte] So tonight for
example, the majority of the
guests that are coming,

I have no idea who they are.
Like they’re just signing up.

- Hello, I’m Tammy.
- I’m Robin.

It’s like, Dear, so-and-so,

I’m having this lovely dinner,
I’d love for you to be a guest.

Here’s a... like a website
link to this email to make
a reservation. Come if you can.

Any allergies across the board?
No? Excellent.

The bathroom’s there. There’s a
more intimate bathroom upstairs
if you need to make out or

take your shirt off or something
like that, but in the meantime,

that’s probably
gonna do for now.

[Charlotte] I think people
probably wanna have like an
interactive experience.

They just... They don’t wanna
just pay for dinner.
It’s like...

the evolution of
a dinner and a show

is now the dinner
and the show is together.

- Yes, thank you.
- [Valerie] Bon appétit...

Guys, dig into it!
Don’t be shy. Don’t be shy.

Cheers. Happy uh... holidays.
Uh... Pre-holidays. Ey! Ey! Ey!

[waiter] There is another table
that would really love to meet
you if possible.

OK. Yeah. Yeah.

- They’ve been here
a number of times.
- Okay. Oh, there they are.

We’d actually been trying
to plan. We were like,

“Annisa’s closing. We have
to go. We have to go."

- Are you, are you guys
in the business?
- We’re all at The Pig.

-We’re all... Yeah.
-Oh, you’re all at The Pig.
Oh, yay.

- I never met somebody like you.
- I’m not going anywhere.

-I know you’re not.
You can come visit me anytime.
-You can always call me.

- [Anita] Get back. Yay.
- [man] Thank you very much.

[Anita] Thank you. Oh.

Oh. Oh, you don’t have to do
that. Yeah. Thank you.

That’s a little heartbreaking.

[Anita] Oh, well, thanks
for coming in.
- Thank you very much.

[Anita] Yeah.

- Hi. We just wanted
to meet you.
- Nice to meet you.

- It’s been a dream to
come to this restaurant.
- Awesome. Awesome.

- How’s everything so far?
- Oh, it’s phenomenal.

[Anita] Yeah, it’s been kind of
sad to see all these customers
come by and...

But just every day, like
it’s just... “We’re so sad
to see you go.”

I wrote on Facebook that
the best chef in America
is closing tonight.

- Oh, thank you.
- For me you are.

Oh, thank you.

How is it going?

Let’s do this. Selfie.

I was never comfortable for me
to actually have to be that
public persona of Chef Anita Lo.

And it...
it’s kind of a relief.

You know, yes, there’s
a lot of people that do this
their entire lives and

you know, die doing it and I
just... I... That’s not me.

It’s time for the younger
generation to step up.

Alright, so for patties
tonight we’re doing beef,

spiced apple parsnip
is our veggie.

Uhm... We’ve got the ube pie. We
have the three individual

and then we also have a slice of
this once we get to that point.

- [waitress] OK.
- [Suzanne] Uh...

[waitress] We could do
red wine with this maybe?

- [Suzanne] Yeah, that
would be great.
- Just red.

[Suzanne] Yeah, red wine
with that. Um...

Let’s really, really, really...
Let’s push the sides.

The sautéed greens,
the tostones, the patties,

those add-ons just to get
our tickets up a bit.

[Suzanne]
So Saturday Dinette has closed.

Kid Chocolate’s not ready to go.

I was offered an opportunity
to come and work

as co-executive chef
at the Gladstone Hotel.

-No, I only have one...
only one thing.
-Bigger? More?

Yeah, more.

[Suzanne] You know, I think I
was known for what I was doing
for Saturday Dinette.

Now people can know me for doing
something quite different at,

you know, a very
well-established hotel.

So right now, as a family,
my income from
the Gladstone is the

only income that
we have coming in.

So that’s a bit of
a strain on us.

Thank you, guys.
Have a good night.

I’ll see you.
Bye, guys.

[Anita] I’m not quite sure
this is my favorite dish, but
this is certainly the dish that

I’m going to be known for,
which are the foie gras
soup dumplings.

I opened with that.
We still have it on the menu.

My father was from Shanghai,
which is where the xiaolongbao,
the soup dumpling, comes from.

I put some foie gras in it
and uh... put some seared
foie gras on top

and for the soup part, I used
one of my mother’s recipes
based on a red cooked meat,

which is something
she would make us for dinner
every once in a while.

- Alright. Done.
- Yeah! Woo!

Alright. You served me
well for 17 years.

[Anita] Food is certainly
emotional, like, because
we’ve had those ties

to mom and nourishment
and it’s identity.

You know, there’s so many things
that you know, could be your,

you know, Proustian Madeleine,
you know.

[Victoria] I find the meaning
of a lot of things when I cook.
Everything makes sense.

I make this sauce,
I love the color and I smell
and it took me to somewhere.

So I get transported to not
necessarily something
that I ate,

but it’s something
that brings me home.

And I’m in love with what I do.

So, it is my constant lover.

I haven’t given up.
It’s the only person-thing
that I haven’t really,

you know, “Oh it’s too much.
I’m done.” It’s what moves me.

Thank you, everybody.
Thank you for sticking out
to the end.

It means a lot to me.
Good luck with everything.

- Thanks, Chef.
- I will always be here
should you need anything.

And now sing.

[all laughing and singing]

♪ As we go on ♪

♪ we remember ♪

♪ all the times
we shared together ♪

♪ As our lives change ♪

[all laughing]

Cheers. Thank you.

Yeah, having more women in...
in kitchens is definitely
changing something,

but I think we can’t solve this
problem from just our side.

Just having more women in
kitchens isn’t gonna do it.

You know, when you talk
about solving something it...

there’s usually like a system,
you know, uh...

that uhm... that is complex,
that needs to be addressed.

Yeah, I would love to be able
to change that... that culture.

I’m doing my best.

[Suzanne] Let’s use these
to go into a mango crème,
but I want thicker.

[Suzanne] Kitchens are not
diverse enough.

My whole goal, my whole dream is
to offer training, and right now
the focus is women.

I know that I can
only ask myself,

what have I done today in order
to make this come about?

This is personal for me.

I’m sorry.

It’s... It’s kind of like
the job that needs to be done,

but we believe in you.
You can do it.

It’s just sharpening
your knife skills.
That’s what it’s all about.

All you think about is
brunoise, brunoise, brunoise.

[Amanda] If there’s a woman at
the top, she’s probably had to
go through a lot to get there.

And if they’re of my generation
or around my generation, my
feeling is that they, uhm...

probably are nicer and they’re
trying to run a better kitchen

‘cause they’ve known
what happened in the past.

At the same time, I have heard
stories of female chefs
in the city

who aren’t that nice and who
aren’t that easy to work with,
so... you know.

What I want and hope for
isn’t necessarily true.

We will ruin our industry
if we don’t fix this problem.
We have to make it less macho.

We have to start celebrating
uhm... good kitchens.

Happy places to work
that are really supportive
of their workers.

A restaurant is a way to show
to people that we love them.

[music playing]