1
00:00:11,433 --> 00:00:12,559
(BREATHING HEAVILY)

2
00:00:12,642 --> 00:00:14,102
(CLAN KING)

3
00:00:14,978 --> 00:00:17,022
(DIGGING)

4
00:00:18,899 --> 00:00:20,775
(WIND HOWLING)

5
00:00:25,447 --> 00:00:26,865
(GRUNTING)

6
00:00:26,948 --> 00:00:29,075
(CRACKLING)

7
00:00:46,092 --> 00:00:48,178
We climb because it's fun

8
00:00:48,261 --> 00:00:49,888
and mainly it was fun.

9
00:00:49,971 --> 00:00:51,514
That's all we ever did.

10
00:00:51,598 --> 00:00:53,141
We were fairly anarchic

11
00:00:53,225 --> 00:00:55,393
and fairly irresponsible

12
00:00:55,477 --> 00:00:57,896
and we didn't give a damn
about anyone or anything else.

13
00:00:57,979 --> 00:01:02,192
We just wanted to climb
the world and it was brilliant fun.

14
00:01:02,275 --> 00:01:03,443
And...

15
00:01:04,361 --> 00:01:06,696
Every now and then
it went wildly wrong.

16
00:01:06,780 --> 00:01:08,573
And then it wasn't.

17
00:01:40,397 --> 00:01:43,692
JOE: <i>When I went to Peru,</i>
<i>I was 25, Simon was 21.</i>

18
00:01:45,485 --> 00:01:48,530
<i>But we had done
a lot of climbing in the Alps.</i>

19
00:01:59,499 --> 00:02:02,502
SIMON: <i>To climb mountains</i>
<i>that have not been climbed before</i>

20
00:02:02,585 --> 00:02:03,962
<i>or a new route to the mountain</i>

21
00:02:04,045 --> 00:02:07,590
<i>which was what my climbing life
had been moving towards.</i>

22
00:02:18,435 --> 00:02:20,645
JOE: <i>A friend of ours who'd done</i>
<i>an amazing amount of climbing,</i>

23
00:02:20,729 --> 00:02:24,399
<i>in South America, had seen this face
in the mid '7.0s.</i>

24
00:02:26,901 --> 00:02:30,155
<i>I think he said
it would be a challenging day out.</i>

25
00:02:38,580 --> 00:02:41,708
SIMON: <i>It was the last big mountain face</i>
<i>in this range of mountains</i>

26
00:02:41,791 --> 00:02:43,835
<i>that haven't been climbed.</i>

27
00:02:46,296 --> 00:02:49,090
<i>There's a great unknown there.</i>

28
00:02:49,174 --> 00:02:52,469
<i>What's so compelling
is stepping into that unknown.</i>

29
00:03:28,088 --> 00:03:32,092
SIMON: It was an isolated spot,
two days walk from a road

30
00:03:32,175 --> 00:03:34,427
and the mountains all around
seemed very big

31
00:03:34,511 --> 00:03:37,597
compared to the mountains
I'd seen in the Alps.

32
00:03:46,523 --> 00:03:49,943
<i>We eventually reached a spot
on the approach to Siula Grande.</i>

33
00:03:50,026 --> 00:03:53,446
<i>You couldn't take
the donkeys further than this point.</i>

34
00:03:55,615 --> 00:03:59,994
<i>I guess it would be four or five miles
from the bottom of the mountains.</i>

35
00:04:06,543 --> 00:04:09,921
<i>We knew Siula Grande was
at the back but we didn't see it.</i>

36
00:04:16,302 --> 00:04:19,305
<i>We'd met this lad
called Richard Hawking, in Lima.</i>

37
00:04:19,389 --> 00:04:20,807
<i>He'd been travelling on his own,</i>

38
00:04:20,890 --> 00:04:24,394
<i>and I think we said,
"Why don't you join us on our trip?"</i>

39
00:04:24,477 --> 00:04:27,522
<i>I think he said he didn't know
anything about mountaineering.</i>

40
00:04:28,523 --> 00:04:31,484
I didn't really know
what part of Peru I was in

41
00:04:31,568 --> 00:04:34,362
or quite what
I was letting myself in for.

42
00:04:35,321 --> 00:04:37,782
<i>We wanted Richard because
when we were on the mountain,</i>

43
00:04:37,866 --> 00:04:41,035
<i>if he was at base camp,
he could look after our kit.</i>

44
00:04:41,119 --> 00:04:43,663
I got to know Simon quite well.

45
00:04:43,746 --> 00:04:47,250
I don't know whether it was
because of his personality

46
00:04:47,333 --> 00:04:51,045
or whether it was because
he was more forgiving towards me,

47
00:04:51,129 --> 00:04:53,089
being a non-climber

48
00:04:53,173 --> 00:04:54,716
in that environment.

49
00:04:54,799 --> 00:04:58,970
But I found it very hard
to get to know Joe.

50
00:05:00,597 --> 00:05:04,851
JOE: <i>I was much more ambitious</i>
<i>about doing it than Simon was.</i>

51
00:05:08,188 --> 00:05:10,648
<i>Siula Grande meant a lot.</i>

52
00:05:10,732 --> 00:05:13,902
<i>We knew a number of expeditions
had failed on it.</i>

53
00:05:16,154 --> 00:05:18,364
<i>If no one had tried
it wouldn't be the same.</i>

54
00:05:18,448 --> 00:05:20,533
<i>It was the fact that
people had tried and failed.</i>

55
00:05:20,617 --> 00:05:22,535
<i>So we knew it was hard.</i>

56
00:05:23,995 --> 00:05:28,333
And my feeling was,
"Well, we'll just do it,

57
00:05:28,416 --> 00:05:30,418
"we're better than them."

58
00:05:37,550 --> 00:05:39,344
SIMON: <i>Since the 197.0's</i>

59
00:05:39,427 --> 00:05:42,305
<i>people had been trying to climb
mountains in the greater ranges</i>

60
00:05:42,388 --> 00:05:44,599
<i>in what's called alpine style.</i>

61
00:05:46,684 --> 00:05:50,021
<i>And essentially alpine style means,
you pack your rucksack</i>

62
00:05:50,104 --> 00:05:53,525
<i>full of all your clothing,
food and climbing equipment</i>

63
00:05:53,608 --> 00:05:55,026
and you start off from a base camp

64
00:05:55,109 --> 00:05:58,238
and try and climb the mountain
in a single push.

65
00:05:59,197 --> 00:06:01,991
<i>You don't fix a line of ropes
up it beforehand,</i>

66
00:06:02,075 --> 00:06:03,743
<i>you don't have a set of camps</i>

67
00:06:03,826 --> 00:06:07,121
<i>that you stock
and come up and back down from.</i>

68
00:06:07,205 --> 00:06:08,206
<i>That's the purest style,</i>

69
00:06:08,289 --> 00:06:12,126
<i>and that's the style that Joe
and I had climbed Siula Grande.</i>

70
00:06:15,713 --> 00:06:17,298
JOE: <i>It's a very committing</i>
<i>way of climbing</i>

71
00:06:17,382 --> 00:06:20,218
<i>because you have no line of retreat.</i>

72
00:06:22,804 --> 00:06:25,848
<i>If something goes wrong
it can be very serious.</i>

73
00:06:27,350 --> 00:06:29,310
<i>There's no rescue in this,
no helicopter rescue,</i>

74
00:06:29,394 --> 00:06:32,230
<i>and there's no other people.</i>

75
00:06:32,313 --> 00:06:34,566
There's no margin for error.

76
00:06:34,649 --> 00:06:37,235
If you get badly hurt,
you'll probably die.

77
00:06:44,200 --> 00:06:46,244
(WIND HOWLING)

78
00:06:46,327 --> 00:06:50,039
<i>I hadn't seen it, from this angle
and it looked steep.</i>

79
00:06:50,123 --> 00:06:51,874
I sort of thought...

80
00:06:52,875 --> 00:06:57,672
You know, "Christ, it's big."

81
00:06:58,339 --> 00:07:01,342
<i>Looks harder than I thought,
than I expected.</i>

82
00:07:01,426 --> 00:07:03,177
<i>But I was excited.</i>

83
00:07:21,613 --> 00:07:23,906
JOE: <i>At the start, doing it,</i>
<i>it was brilliant.</i>

84
00:07:23,990 --> 00:07:25,992
<i>This is what we live for.</i>

85
00:07:41,174 --> 00:07:43,343
(EXCLAIMING)

86
00:07:54,395 --> 00:07:56,481
<i>I love the actual movement of climbing.</i>

87
00:07:56,564 --> 00:07:59,108
<i>It's when you're climbing well,
it just feels brilliant.</i>

88
00:07:59,192 --> 00:08:02,904
<i>It's like a combination
between ballet and gymnastics.</i>

89
00:08:02,987 --> 00:08:06,491
<i>It's that mixture of power and grace.</i>

90
00:08:12,080 --> 00:08:16,334
SIMON: <i>For me mountains are the most</i>
<i>beautiful places in the world.</i>

91
00:08:16,417 --> 00:08:20,213
When I go into these places,
I feel an amazing sense of space

92
00:08:20,296 --> 00:08:24,175
and an amazing sense of freedom
when I get away

93
00:08:24,258 --> 00:08:27,512
from all of the clutter
that we have in our world.

94
00:08:59,961 --> 00:09:01,504
JOE: <i>I think we surprised ourselves</i>
<i>at the speed</i>

95
00:09:01,587 --> 00:09:04,340
<i>we got up the ice field,
it was about 1,000 foot,</i>

96
00:09:04,424 --> 00:09:08,219
<i>and got up to a point where the ice
is running through rock bands</i>

97
00:09:08,302 --> 00:09:10,555
<i>and you got vertical cascades.</i>

98
00:09:14,517 --> 00:09:17,770
<i>And we started intricately climbing
through these.</i>

99
00:09:17,854 --> 00:09:19,313
(SNIFFING)

100
00:09:31,784 --> 00:09:34,120
<i>The fact that
you are tied to your partner,</i>

101
00:09:34,203 --> 00:09:37,081
<i>means that you put
an immense amount of trust</i>

102
00:09:37,165 --> 00:09:40,626
<i>in someone else's skill and ability.</i>

103
00:09:40,710 --> 00:09:45,423
But at some point, I was thinking,
"God sakes, I'm gonna dead fall here".

104
00:09:45,506 --> 00:09:48,176
<i>"God's sake, don't fall here.</i> "

105
00:09:53,264 --> 00:09:54,974
<i>The rope can be something</i>

106
00:09:55,057 --> 00:09:56,976
<i>that rather than save your life,
could kill you.</i>

107
00:09:57,059 --> 00:09:59,562
<i>If your mate falls off
and all his gear rips out,</i>

108
00:09:59,645 --> 00:10:01,773
<i>you're dead. You're gonna go with him.</i>

109
00:10:04,692 --> 00:10:06,486
If you're gonna do that
sort of climbing, at some point

110
00:10:06,569 --> 00:10:11,032
you're gonna have to
rely wholly on your partner.

111
00:10:20,500 --> 00:10:22,960
JOE: <i>We were very pleased</i>
<i>at the end of that first day,</i>

112
00:10:23,044 --> 00:10:25,797
<i>we had done a lot of climbing,
good climbing.</i>

113
00:10:25,880 --> 00:10:29,675
We were very confident
at that point that we should make it.

114
00:10:34,847 --> 00:10:38,392
JOE: <i>At that altitude,</i>
<i>you dehydrate enormously.</i>

115
00:10:38,476 --> 00:10:41,521
<i>You have to drink a lot of fluid,
four or five litres a day,</i>

116
00:10:41,604 --> 00:10:44,315
<i>and the only way to get it
is by melting snow.</i>

117
00:10:44,398 --> 00:10:45,733
(SIZZLING)

118
00:10:47,360 --> 00:10:49,237
SIMON: <i>Everything is so time consuming.</i>

119
00:10:49,320 --> 00:10:52,949
<i>To make a single brew
at that altitude takes a long time.</i>

120
00:10:53,032 --> 00:10:56,410
<i>You're perhaps looking at an hour.</i>

121
00:10:57,411 --> 00:11:01,040
<i>So perhaps we didn't brew up
as much as we should have done.</i>

122
00:11:01,123 --> 00:11:04,919
<i>But we didn't have an awful lot
of spare gas with us either.</i>

123
00:11:15,680 --> 00:11:19,141
<i>There's not a lot of risk
in our lives normally now.</i>

124
00:11:23,688 --> 00:11:26,482
<i>And to put an element of risk
back into it</i>

125
00:11:26,566 --> 00:11:29,068
<i>takes us out of the humdrum.</i>

126
00:11:30,695 --> 00:11:33,531
<i>In that sense
it makes you feel more alive.</i>

127
00:11:40,913 --> 00:11:45,459
JOE: <i>I've never been that high before</i>
<i>and it's very strenuous.</i>

128
00:11:51,382 --> 00:11:53,801
<i>Not only is it difficult and unstable,</i>

129
00:11:53,885 --> 00:11:57,805
<i>but your heart is going like nobody's
business because of the altitude.</i>

130
00:11:59,599 --> 00:12:02,018
(WIND BLOWING FEROCIOUSLY)

131
00:12:48,606 --> 00:12:51,233
JOE: <i>It had now got very cold indeed.</i>

132
00:12:53,152 --> 00:12:55,947
<i>We were up 20,000, 20,500 feet.</i>

133
00:12:56,030 --> 00:12:58,282
<i>It was windy and it started snowing</i>

134
00:12:58,366 --> 00:13:02,078
<i>and the whole face was pouring
with powder-snow avalanches.</i>

135
00:13:17,551 --> 00:13:20,137
SIMON: <i>The snow would</i>
<i>actually stick on your clothing.</i>

136
00:13:20,221 --> 00:13:24,225
<i>It would then freeze on you like
you're wearing a suit of armour.</i>

137
00:13:34,193 --> 00:13:38,114
JOE: <i>The last section on</i>
<i>the face was a few hundred feet</i>

138
00:13:38,197 --> 00:13:40,574
<i>of the most nightmarish climbing.</i>

139
00:13:41,575 --> 00:13:43,911
<i>Completely unstable powder snow,</i>

140
00:13:44,870 --> 00:13:46,831
<i>no anchors at any point.</i>

141
00:13:48,082 --> 00:13:50,459
SIMON: <i>It was physically</i>
<i>very, very tiring</i>

142
00:13:50,543 --> 00:13:52,586
<i>full body climbing really.</i>

143
00:14:02,388 --> 00:14:06,684
JOE: <i>It took us the best part of</i>
<i>five or six hours to climb 200 feet.</i>

144
00:14:15,651 --> 00:14:19,155
SIMON: <i>We carried on</i>
<i>way after it had got dark.</i>

145
00:14:19,238 --> 00:14:20,865
JOE: <i>I was getting extremely cold</i>

146
00:14:20,948 --> 00:14:24,952
<i>because I was just sitting still
while Simon was trying to climb.</i>

147
00:14:25,619 --> 00:14:28,205
<i>I was getting near hypothermic.</i>

148
00:14:28,289 --> 00:14:30,875
<i>You just knew that if you just
carried on regardless</i>

149
00:14:30,958 --> 00:14:33,544
<i>it was gonna go tits up.</i>

150
00:14:33,627 --> 00:14:35,463
<i>So we dug a snow cave.</i>

151
00:14:53,731 --> 00:14:56,025
JOE: <i>In the morning, in good weather,</i>

152
00:14:56,108 --> 00:14:59,153
<i>we actually saw
what we'd been trying to climb.</i>

153
00:15:08,162 --> 00:15:09,789
<i>It was this Andean nightmare</i>

154
00:15:09,872 --> 00:15:15,211
<i>of flutings of the finest powder
gorged out by snow falling down.</i>

155
00:15:16,003 --> 00:15:19,507
<i>Meringues and mushrooms
and cornices all over the place.</i>

156
00:15:22,593 --> 00:15:25,679
<i>We'd heard about these strange
powder snow conditions</i>

157
00:15:25,763 --> 00:15:26,931
<i>you get in the Andes</i>

158
00:15:27,014 --> 00:15:29,350
<i>and we'd never seen them before.</i>

159
00:15:29,683 --> 00:15:31,102
<i>I don't know the physics of it.</i>

160
00:15:31,185 --> 00:15:34,688
<i>Explains why powder snow
can stay on such steep slopes.</i>

161
00:15:34,772 --> 00:15:39,026
<i>In the Alps it would just slide off
if the slope is above 40 degrees.</i>

162
00:15:44,156 --> 00:15:46,492
<i>It is some of the most precarious,</i>

163
00:15:46,575 --> 00:15:49,912
<i>unnerving and dangerous climbing
I've ever done.</i>

164
00:15:58,212 --> 00:16:01,340
<i>We were actually scared
that we would get to an impasse</i>

165
00:16:01,423 --> 00:16:04,135
<i>where we couldn't climb any further up</i>

166
00:16:04,218 --> 00:16:08,139
<i>because we knew we wouldn't
be able to get back down.</i>

167
00:16:08,222 --> 00:16:11,100
<i>We were climbing ourselves into a trap.</i>

168
00:16:11,183 --> 00:16:12,768
(GRUNTS)

169
00:16:12,852 --> 00:16:17,857
<i>And we could see this 4,500-foot
drop that was waiting for us.</i>

170
00:16:17,940 --> 00:16:20,568
(BREATHING HEAVILY)

171
00:16:27,074 --> 00:16:30,953
<i>So it was a great relief
that by 2:00 in the afternoon</i>

172
00:16:31,036 --> 00:16:34,248
<i>we got onto the north ridge
and off the west face.</i>

173
00:16:34,331 --> 00:16:35,332
<i>And we vowed</i>

174
00:16:35,416 --> 00:16:38,836
<i>that we didn't want to
go near Andean flutings again.</i>

175
00:16:41,255 --> 00:16:44,675
(HEAVY BREATHING)

176
00:16:47,678 --> 00:16:49,180
SIMON: <i>We were pretty tired</i>

177
00:16:49,263 --> 00:16:51,765
<i>by the time we got up onto the ridge.</i>

178
00:16:53,309 --> 00:16:55,477
JOE: <i>I was knackered,</i>

179
00:16:55,561 --> 00:16:58,063
<i>and I remember thinking, "Sod
the summit, we've done the face,</i>

180
00:16:58,147 --> 00:17:01,108
"I can't be bothered
to go all the way up there."

181
00:17:01,192 --> 00:17:05,196
And then we thought, " Hang on,

182
00:17:05,279 --> 00:17:08,449
"we have come all this way,
we might as well stand on the top."

183
00:17:15,247 --> 00:17:16,457
(GRUNTS)

184
00:17:18,876 --> 00:17:21,462
(BOTH BREATHING HEAVILY)

185
00:17:23,297 --> 00:17:26,258
(COUGHING)

186
00:17:36,644 --> 00:17:37,728
JOE: Long way down, isn't it?

187
00:17:37,811 --> 00:17:38,812
SIMON: Yeah.

188
00:17:38,896 --> 00:17:41,106
(BOTH LAUGHING)

189
00:18:26,860 --> 00:18:28,779
JOE: <i>I don't particularly like summits</i>

190
00:18:28,862 --> 00:18:32,283
<i>because 80% of accidents
happen on descent.</i>

191
00:18:38,247 --> 00:18:39,999
SIMON: <i>We'd decided</i>
<i>before we climbed the face</i>

192
00:18:40,082 --> 00:18:42,918
<i>that we were going to
come down the north ridge</i>

193
00:18:43,002 --> 00:18:47,214
<i>down to a col between the Siula Grande
and another mountain called Yerupaja</i>

194
00:18:48,340 --> 00:18:52,469
<i>then we'd be able to abseil down
a smaller section of the face.</i>

195
00:18:58,350 --> 00:19:02,187
JOE: <i>Already the clouds were coming in</i>
<i>from East, big clouds.</i>

196
00:19:11,238 --> 00:19:15,242
SIMON: <i>We expected this ridge</i>
<i>to be quite an easy way to descend.</i>

197
00:19:15,326 --> 00:19:18,078
<i>We were hoping we'd be able to walk.</i>

198
00:19:18,162 --> 00:19:20,748
<i>It turned out to be very difficult.</i>

199
00:19:22,291 --> 00:19:24,251
JOE: <i>It was horrendous.</i>

200
00:19:24,335 --> 00:19:27,504
<i>Vertical on the west side,
with the cornices overhanging,</i>

201
00:19:27,588 --> 00:19:30,299
<i>and on the east side, steep flutings</i>

202
00:19:30,382 --> 00:19:32,801
<i>running down 3,000 feet below us.</i>

203
00:19:36,472 --> 00:19:37,556
SIMON: <i>It was a shock, really,</i>

204
00:19:37,639 --> 00:19:42,102
and it was quite dangerous and
it all got a bit out of control.

205
00:19:47,816 --> 00:19:50,527
(WIND HOWLING)

206
00:19:53,739 --> 00:19:57,826
JOE: <i>Within about half an hour</i>
<i>to an hour of leaving the summit</i>

207
00:19:57,910 --> 00:19:59,078
<i>we were lost.</i>

208
00:19:59,161 --> 00:20:01,997
<i>We were in a whiteout,
we couldn't see anything.</i>

209
00:20:12,341 --> 00:20:14,051
Then we got a little break in the cloud

210
00:20:14,134 --> 00:20:17,805
and I saw the ridge so I started
climbing back up to it.

211
00:20:28,941 --> 00:20:30,818
<i>I didn't know,
because of the side I was on,</i>

212
00:20:30,901 --> 00:20:33,320
<i>but it was actually an enormous cornice,</i>

213
00:20:33,404 --> 00:20:36,031
an overhang of snow and ice,

214
00:20:36,115 --> 00:20:38,742
and I was walking over the top of it.

215
00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:53,799
(SCREAMING)

216
00:21:00,681 --> 00:21:03,100
I was left hanging, looking down,

217
00:21:03,183 --> 00:21:06,478
as all this snow and ice
then fell away from me

218
00:21:06,562 --> 00:21:08,981
<i>down the west side of Siula Grande.</i>

219
00:21:12,526 --> 00:21:13,777
I got back up on the ridge

220
00:21:13,861 --> 00:21:15,946
and I shouted down to Joe
that I'd found the ridge.

221
00:21:16,029 --> 00:21:18,574
I said, "I've found the ridge, Joe."

222
00:21:22,119 --> 00:21:24,997
JOE: <i>We'd hoped to have</i>
<i>got down that day</i>

223
00:21:25,080 --> 00:21:28,417
<i>but by the time it got dark
we were still very high,</i>

224
00:21:28,500 --> 00:21:30,294
<i>still at 20,000 feet.</i>

225
00:21:31,420 --> 00:21:34,423
<i>And that night, as we made a brew,</i>

226
00:21:34,506 --> 00:21:36,175
<i>the gas ran out.</i>

227
00:21:55,527 --> 00:21:57,237
SIMON: <i>It was pretty obvious</i>
<i>the following morning</i>

228
00:21:57,321 --> 00:22:00,199
<i>that we'd descended
the worst part of the ridge.</i>

229
00:22:00,282 --> 00:22:01,450
<i>I was pretty confident</i>

230
00:22:01,533 --> 00:22:04,786
<i>that we'd get back down
to the base camp that day.</i>

231
00:22:05,954 --> 00:22:08,790
<i>I thought at that stage
it was pretty much in the bag,</i>

232
00:22:08,874 --> 00:22:10,459
<i>the whole climb.</i>

233
00:22:12,336 --> 00:22:14,338
JOE: <i>I was ahead of Simon</i>

234
00:22:15,881 --> 00:22:18,550
<i>and suddenly there was
this vertical wall</i>

235
00:22:18,634 --> 00:22:20,302
<i>bisecting the ridge.</i>

236
00:22:21,261 --> 00:22:22,930
<i>I had to get down
on my hands and knees,</i>

237
00:22:23,013 --> 00:22:27,976
<i>hammer my axes into the ice and
lower myself off the ice cliff</i>

238
00:22:33,106 --> 00:22:34,274
<i>When you hammer the axe in</i>

239
00:22:34,358 --> 00:22:37,528
<i>you listen to the sound it makes
and you look at it.</i>

240
00:22:39,655 --> 00:22:42,449
I was hanging by both axes,
I took the hammer out

241
00:22:42,533 --> 00:22:45,536
and I wanted to place it
in the vertical wall.

242
00:22:45,619 --> 00:22:47,829
I swung and the pick went in,

243
00:22:47,913 --> 00:22:49,581
and it just made a...

244
00:22:50,624 --> 00:22:52,626
Just a strange sound.

245
00:22:54,461 --> 00:22:56,463
I thought, "Well, I'll take it out,

246
00:22:56,547 --> 00:22:57,589
"make a good placement."

247
00:22:57,673 --> 00:22:59,383
I just wanted to put bomber.

248
00:22:59,466 --> 00:23:02,052
Dead solid axe placements in

249
00:23:02,135 --> 00:23:04,012
all the way down.

250
00:23:04,096 --> 00:23:07,015
And I was about to swing
at the ice again...

251
00:23:13,647 --> 00:23:15,607
(MOANING)

252
00:23:19,111 --> 00:23:20,571
(WHIMPERS)

253
00:23:21,947 --> 00:23:24,783
(SCREAMS IN PAIN)

254
00:23:25,284 --> 00:23:28,537
JOE: <i>This pain just came</i>
<i>flooding down my thigh</i>

255
00:23:28,620 --> 00:23:31,748
<i>and my knee was
very, very, very painful.</i>

256
00:23:33,458 --> 00:23:36,253
oh! oh, fuck, fuck, fuck!

257
00:23:37,254 --> 00:23:40,841
The impact drove my lower leg

258
00:23:41,800 --> 00:23:43,260
straight through my knee joint.

259
00:23:43,343 --> 00:23:45,304
(WHIMPERING)

260
00:23:45,387 --> 00:23:48,724
As the bone went into my femur,

261
00:23:48,807 --> 00:23:53,979
it split the tibial plateau
straight off and carried on up.

262
00:23:56,857 --> 00:23:59,359
(MOANING)

263
00:24:02,279 --> 00:24:05,907
<i>It was quite wild, the pain.
I couldn't cope with it at first.</i>

264
00:24:11,121 --> 00:24:12,789
<i>I just breathed a lot</i>
<i>and it started to</i> go.

265
00:24:12,873 --> 00:24:14,958
<i>I can remember
looking across to the west</i>

266
00:24:15,042 --> 00:24:17,794
<i>and seeing that we were level
with the summit.</i>

267
00:24:17,878 --> 00:24:20,881
I had a height gauge of where we were.

268
00:24:20,964 --> 00:24:24,134
And I just thought,
"I can't have broken my leg,

269
00:24:24,217 --> 00:24:26,595
"if I've broken my leg, I'm dead."

270
00:24:36,605 --> 00:24:39,900
(PANTING)

271
00:24:47,282 --> 00:24:49,826
<i>Then the rope went slack.</i>

272
00:24:49,910 --> 00:24:53,246
<i>I knew that meant that Simon
was coming towards me.</i>

273
00:25:07,761 --> 00:25:10,931
JOE: <i>I couldn't feel</i>
<i>any bone under anything.</i>

274
00:25:11,014 --> 00:25:13,600
<i>I brought my hand up
and there was no blood on it,</i>

275
00:25:13,684 --> 00:25:15,310
<i>and the pain had gone down
a little bit,</i>

276
00:25:15,394 --> 00:25:18,689
<i>and I thought maybe
I was being a bit wet</i>

277
00:25:18,772 --> 00:25:21,733
<i>and I'd just torn a ligament
or something.</i>

278
00:25:23,735 --> 00:25:25,821
(WHIMPERING)

279
00:25:25,904 --> 00:25:27,781
<i>I tried to stand on it.</i>

280
00:25:29,616 --> 00:25:30,909
(SCREAMS)

281
00:25:30,992 --> 00:25:34,121
<i>I felt all the bone go,
all grating and everything,</i>

282
00:25:34,204 --> 00:25:36,623
<i>and I knew that it was broken then.</i>

283
00:25:46,258 --> 00:25:48,927
SIMON: The look that he gave
to me sticks in my mind,

284
00:25:49,010 --> 00:25:52,723
this look of shock
and desperation and terror, really,

285
00:25:52,806 --> 00:25:55,642
lots of things in this single look.

286
00:25:58,478 --> 00:26:00,564
He said, "Are you okay?"

287
00:26:00,647 --> 00:26:03,942
And I think it did occur to me
to say, "Yeah, I'm fine,"

288
00:26:04,025 --> 00:26:05,527
and I thought, "That's stupid."

289
00:26:05,610 --> 00:26:08,905
I think I said,
" No, I've broken my leg."

290
00:26:08,989 --> 00:26:10,323
(EXCLAIMS)

291
00:26:11,408 --> 00:26:13,618
Immediately, I... Just doom, really.

292
00:26:13,702 --> 00:26:17,539
I thought, "oh, God, we're stuffed.

293
00:26:18,039 --> 00:26:19,124
<i>"We're gonna be doing well</i>

294
00:26:19,207 --> 00:26:21,835
<i>"if either of us get out of this now.</i> "

295
00:26:25,505 --> 00:26:28,925
It did come into my mind,
"If he slips off the mountain

296
00:26:29,009 --> 00:26:33,263
"then I can just clear off
and get myself down

297
00:26:33,346 --> 00:26:36,433
"and I won't have to
have all the hassle

298
00:26:36,516 --> 00:26:38,894
"of trying to deal with him

299
00:26:38,977 --> 00:26:41,354
"and with the situation we're in."

300
00:26:45,025 --> 00:26:47,986
He gave me painkillers which were
effectively headache tablets.

301
00:26:48,069 --> 00:26:52,407
<i>And he didn't really
talk about anything.</i>

302
00:26:53,700 --> 00:26:57,370
It was almost as if he knew...
He knew what this meant.

303
00:26:57,454 --> 00:26:58,914
He knew that...

304
00:27:00,665 --> 00:27:03,376
And I knew, that he was
going to have to leave me.

305
00:27:04,211 --> 00:27:06,963
<i>He could've said something like,</i>
<i>"I'm gonna get some help,</i> "

306
00:27:07,047 --> 00:27:09,299
and I'd have gone, " Right, yeah"

307
00:27:11,218 --> 00:27:13,345
because I knew there wasn't any help.

308
00:27:13,428 --> 00:27:16,139
<i>It would've been an easy way
for him to say it.</i>

309
00:27:16,973 --> 00:27:20,936
<i>I didn't think we seriously thought
whether there was any choice.</i>

310
00:27:30,862 --> 00:27:32,656
RICHARD: <i>I couldn't put my finger on it,</i>

311
00:27:32,739 --> 00:27:35,450
<i>why I thought something had happened.</i>

312
00:27:36,618 --> 00:27:41,665
And I started to think, "Is one
of them dead, or both of them?"

313
00:27:42,415 --> 00:27:44,167
Even if one of them's dead,

314
00:27:44,251 --> 00:27:45,836
not, "Which one do I want to be dead,"

315
00:27:45,919 --> 00:27:49,089
but, "If one comes back,
who do I want it to be?"

316
00:27:51,258 --> 00:27:53,510
It's kind of quite cold to say it

317
00:27:53,593 --> 00:27:56,304
but I guess I would rather
it had been Simon.

318
00:28:00,600 --> 00:28:03,103
I thought, "oh, he's not leaving."

319
00:28:08,608 --> 00:28:10,026
SIMON: I'd calmed down a bit

320
00:28:10,110 --> 00:28:13,029
and managed to focus myself again

321
00:28:13,113 --> 00:28:15,699
to think about
how we were going to get...

322
00:28:15,782 --> 00:28:18,577
How I was going to get him
down the mountain.

323
00:28:20,495 --> 00:28:23,790
<i>We discussed between us</i>
<i>what we were gonna have to</i> do.

324
00:28:24,416 --> 00:28:27,377
JOE: <i>We thought, "We've got two</i>
<i>ropes that are 150 feet long</i>

325
00:28:27,460 --> 00:28:29,880
<i>"and if we tie them together</i>
<i>we've got a 300-foot rope.</i> "

326
00:28:32,173 --> 00:28:34,718
<i>So I tied to one end
and Simon tied to the other.</i>

327
00:28:34,801 --> 00:28:37,470
<i>In theory, he could
lower me down 300 feet.</i>

328
00:28:42,058 --> 00:28:44,561
SIMON: <i>Couldn't really get</i>
<i>anchors to lower him from,</i>

329
00:28:44,644 --> 00:28:48,106
<i>but it didn't matter,
I cut a bucket in the snow</i>

330
00:28:48,189 --> 00:28:50,108
<i>and sat in that and braced myself</i>

331
00:28:50,191 --> 00:28:53,945
JOE: <i>And I sort of lay down</i>
<i>between his legs.</i>

332
00:28:54,029 --> 00:28:55,280
okay, let's go.

333
00:28:55,363 --> 00:28:57,991
JOE: <i>And Simon started lowering me.</i>

334
00:29:01,745 --> 00:29:03,413
(GROANING)

335
00:29:03,496 --> 00:29:07,292
SIMON: <i>I'd lower him</i>
<i>one rope length, 150 feet,</i>

336
00:29:07,375 --> 00:29:10,003
<i>and then the knot would come up
between the two ropes.</i>

337
00:29:10,086 --> 00:29:13,298
<i>Now the knots would not
go through the belay plates.</i>

338
00:29:13,381 --> 00:29:14,925
JOE: <i>So he would stop me,</i>

339
00:29:15,008 --> 00:29:17,802
<i>I would stand on my left leg,
my good leg,</i>

340
00:29:17,886 --> 00:29:19,930
<i>so that I could
get the weight off the rope.</i>

341
00:29:20,013 --> 00:29:23,141
It gave him enough slack
to unclip the rope,

342
00:29:23,224 --> 00:29:25,769
thread the rope back through
the lowering device

343
00:29:25,852 --> 00:29:28,146
with a knot on the other side,

344
00:29:28,229 --> 00:29:32,067
clip it back to himself and
lower me the remaining 150 feet.

345
00:29:39,699 --> 00:29:42,202
SIMON: <i>He'd make himself</i>
<i>reasonably secure</i>

346
00:29:42,285 --> 00:29:44,287
<i>and I'd down climb to join him,</i>

347
00:29:44,371 --> 00:29:46,873
<i>and we'd repeat the process again.</i>

348
00:29:48,959 --> 00:29:50,752
(SCREAMING)

349
00:29:50,835 --> 00:29:52,712
JOE: Simon was trying to lower me fast

350
00:29:52,796 --> 00:29:56,299
and it meant that my foot kept
jabbing in and bending the knee.

351
00:29:56,383 --> 00:29:58,593
(SCREAMING)

352
00:29:58,677 --> 00:30:01,137
<i>Excruciatingly painful.</i>

353
00:30:01,221 --> 00:30:02,973
I can remember feeling angry with him

354
00:30:03,056 --> 00:30:06,017
because he was hurting me.
I was thinking, "Do it slower."

355
00:30:06,101 --> 00:30:08,645
I also knew that
he had to do it this fast,

356
00:30:08,728 --> 00:30:11,231
he hadn't got a choice.

357
00:30:12,107 --> 00:30:13,233
And he was very grim-faced.

358
00:30:13,316 --> 00:30:16,194
I remember looking at him, you know,

359
00:30:17,696 --> 00:30:20,198
wondering if he was pissed off
with the whole thing.

360
00:30:20,281 --> 00:30:22,409
(SCREAMING)

361
00:30:22,492 --> 00:30:26,287
SIMON: I couldn't take
too much notice, unfortunately,

362
00:30:26,371 --> 00:30:27,414
of these cries of pain

363
00:30:27,497 --> 00:30:31,126
because we'd got to go down.

364
00:30:36,256 --> 00:30:38,633
JOE: <i>We would dig these holes</i>
<i>for him to sit in,</i>

365
00:30:38,717 --> 00:30:39,884
<i>in the powder snow,</i>

366
00:30:39,968 --> 00:30:41,219
<i>and they would last</i>

367
00:30:41,302 --> 00:30:43,847
<i>about the length of time
it took to lower me.</i>

368
00:30:43,930 --> 00:30:46,725
They were crumbling around him,

369
00:30:46,808 --> 00:30:50,687
and he was lowering me on an
8.8 millimetre rope, that thick,

370
00:30:50,770 --> 00:30:53,481
with hands that were frozen.

371
00:30:53,565 --> 00:30:55,233
<i>What he did was extraordinary.</i>

372
00:30:55,316 --> 00:30:56,401
<i>I've never heard of</i>

373
00:30:56,484 --> 00:30:59,863
<i>any single-handed
mountain rescue like that.</i>

374
00:31:09,372 --> 00:31:11,416
(WIND HOWLING)

375
00:31:14,002 --> 00:31:15,795
<i>We're now lowering in a full storm.</i>

376
00:31:15,879 --> 00:31:17,630
<i>I don't know
what the wind chill factor was,</i>

377
00:31:17,714 --> 00:31:21,051
<i>but it would be like minus 80
or something like that.</i>

378
00:31:21,134 --> 00:31:23,511
<i>I had lost a pint and a half
of blood into my leg,</i>

379
00:31:23,595 --> 00:31:26,056
<i>I was in shock and severely dehydrated.</i>

380
00:31:27,474 --> 00:31:29,893
<i>It was a point where
we should've dug a snow cave</i>

381
00:31:29,976 --> 00:31:31,311
<i>and taken shelter,</i>

382
00:31:31,394 --> 00:31:33,813
<i>got in our sleeping bags
and made a hot brew</i>

383
00:31:33,897 --> 00:31:35,231
<i>and rehydrated.</i>

384
00:31:36,649 --> 00:31:38,777
We couldn't 'cause we'd run out of gas.

385
00:31:38,860 --> 00:31:41,029
<i>And we just lost control at this point</i>

386
00:31:41,112 --> 00:31:43,073
<i>because we couldn't dig a snow cave</i>

387
00:31:43,156 --> 00:31:46,367
<i>and risk getting trapped
by a storm that didn't break.</i>

388
00:32:43,591 --> 00:32:45,677
It was all starting to look up
in many ways at that point

389
00:32:45,760 --> 00:32:48,012
because we were virtually down.

390
00:32:54,435 --> 00:32:56,604
<i>And I started this lower thinking,</i>

391
00:32:56,688 --> 00:33:00,275
<i>"After this we'll have one more</i>
<i>and we'll be on the glacier.</i> "

392
00:33:02,569 --> 00:33:05,405
Suddenly it all got hard
under my elbows, like icy,

393
00:33:05,488 --> 00:33:06,948
and it got steeper,

394
00:33:07,031 --> 00:33:09,450
it suddenly gets steeper.

395
00:33:09,534 --> 00:33:11,578
And I just was full of alarm.

396
00:33:11,661 --> 00:33:13,997
(SCREAMING)

397
00:33:14,747 --> 00:33:16,291
Simon, slow down!

398
00:33:16,374 --> 00:33:19,586
JOE: <i>I was screaming at Simon</i>
<i>to stop as loud as I could</i>

399
00:33:19,669 --> 00:33:21,921
<i>and he just couldn't hear me.</i>

400
00:33:23,131 --> 00:33:27,343
(SCREAMING)

401
00:33:29,053 --> 00:33:31,222
(GRUNTS)

402
00:33:33,975 --> 00:33:36,853
SIMON: <i>I did notice that</i>
<i>more weight came onto the rope</i>

403
00:33:37,896 --> 00:33:39,981
<i>but didn't really think a lot about this</i>

404
00:33:40,064 --> 00:33:44,402
<i>and I just thought, "Well,</i>
<i>he's going over some steeper ground.</i> "

405
00:33:44,485 --> 00:33:46,029
JOE: I'd looked down

406
00:33:46,112 --> 00:33:50,533
and I'd glimpsed that there was
a big drop underneath me.

407
00:33:50,617 --> 00:33:53,786
I was horrified
to discover what I'd gone over.

408
00:33:55,413 --> 00:33:57,790
<i>I could clearly see a large crevasse</i>

409
00:33:57,874 --> 00:34:01,669
<i>directly under the cliff
about 80 feet below me.</i>

410
00:34:04,964 --> 00:34:05,965
I was trying to get my axes

411
00:34:06,049 --> 00:34:09,219
to see if I could reach this wall.

412
00:34:09,302 --> 00:34:12,180
<i>I think it was almost as
I started to try and do that</i>

413
00:34:12,263 --> 00:34:15,099
<i>I started being lowered again.</i>

414
00:34:15,183 --> 00:34:16,726
<i>And I was thinking,</i>
<i>"Christ, don't do it,</i> "

415
00:34:16,809 --> 00:34:19,938
'cause I knew that
there wasn't enough rope

416
00:34:20,021 --> 00:34:21,564
to get me to the bottom.

417
00:34:21,648 --> 00:34:23,233
If I couldn't get
my weight off the rope

418
00:34:23,316 --> 00:34:25,068
he couldn't disconnect the rope

419
00:34:25,151 --> 00:34:28,780
and I knew all this and I was
screaming again not to lower me.

420
00:34:28,863 --> 00:34:32,575
I carried on lowering him
until I reached the knot

421
00:34:32,659 --> 00:34:33,993
then tugged at the rope,

422
00:34:34,077 --> 00:34:37,205
my signal to him
to take the weight off the rope.

423
00:34:40,041 --> 00:34:41,834
<i>And nothing happened.</i>

424
00:34:43,211 --> 00:34:45,797
<i>And nothing continued to happen.</i>

425
00:35:13,866 --> 00:35:15,952
JOE: <i>I knew</i>
<i>that the only way out of this</i>

426
00:35:16,035 --> 00:35:18,579
<i>is if I could climb up the rope.</i>

427
00:35:33,219 --> 00:35:35,972
I had two Prusik loops,

428
00:35:36,055 --> 00:35:38,349
thin cords of rope,

429
00:35:39,267 --> 00:35:42,478
and if you use a special
twisting knot on the rope

430
00:35:42,562 --> 00:35:44,522
you can slide it up the rope,
pull on it

431
00:35:44,605 --> 00:35:46,316
and the knot grips the rope.

432
00:35:46,399 --> 00:35:48,276
Clip a snap link to it and a swing to it

433
00:35:48,359 --> 00:35:49,485
and you can stand up.

434
00:35:49,569 --> 00:35:53,531
If you've got another one tied
above it, you slide that one up,

435
00:35:53,614 --> 00:35:56,159
stand in this loop that's now higher...

436
00:36:06,586 --> 00:36:08,713
<i>I was trying to hold myself upright</i>

437
00:36:08,796 --> 00:36:10,548
<i>to keep the rope in place</i>

438
00:36:10,631 --> 00:36:12,925
<i>and then trying to
put this knot through itself</i>

439
00:36:13,009 --> 00:36:15,553
And this fiddly bloody rope,

440
00:36:15,636 --> 00:36:17,764
it's hard to describe
how I couldn't do it

441
00:36:17,847 --> 00:36:20,350
because I just couldn't
feel my fingers at all.

442
00:36:20,433 --> 00:36:23,978
I'd be looking at it and trying
to push it in using my teeth

443
00:36:24,062 --> 00:36:26,647
and getting it round
and getting it round.

444
00:36:32,528 --> 00:36:34,864
SIMON: <i>My hands were cold, my feet...</i>

445
00:36:34,947 --> 00:36:36,866
<i>I was very, very cold.</i>

446
00:36:36,949 --> 00:36:40,453
<i>And, of course,
you sat there, you don't warm up.</i>

447
00:36:40,536 --> 00:36:44,374
<i>It was a desperate position
made worse by the fact I'd no idea</i>

448
00:36:44,457 --> 00:36:47,460
<i>what Joe was doing
or what position he was in.</i>

449
00:36:48,961 --> 00:36:53,257
<i>I just couldn't figure out
why it was taking him so long</i>

450
00:36:53,341 --> 00:36:55,009
<i>to get his weight off the rope,</i>

451
00:36:55,093 --> 00:36:57,720
<i>there was no sensible
explanation for it.</i>

452
00:36:57,804 --> 00:36:58,888
Joe!

453
00:37:04,310 --> 00:37:06,896
JOE: <i>I got one on</i>
<i>and I clipped it to my chest</i>

454
00:37:06,979 --> 00:37:09,065
<i>because that would keep me upright.</i>

455
00:37:09,148 --> 00:37:10,274
<i>I tried to put the other one on</i>

456
00:37:10,358 --> 00:37:12,902
<i>and I was having
real trouble with my hands.</i>

457
00:37:21,994 --> 00:37:25,373
<i>And I dropped the bloody thing
and I watched it fall.</i>

458
00:37:27,250 --> 00:37:29,752
I knew that I was stuffed then.

459
00:37:32,296 --> 00:37:34,882
<i>I just thought,</i>
<i>"Well, I can't climb the rope.</i> "

460
00:37:34,966 --> 00:37:37,760
<i>This idea that you can climb
a rope hand over hand, you can't,</i>

461
00:37:37,844 --> 00:37:40,430
<i>especially if your hands are
frozen, you just can't do it.</i>

462
00:37:50,189 --> 00:37:52,316
<i>There's nothing I can</i> do.

463
00:37:52,400 --> 00:37:54,527
<i>I felt completely helpless.</i>

464
00:37:54,944 --> 00:37:56,779
<i>And really angry.</i>

465
00:38:08,374 --> 00:38:09,917
SIMON: <i>There was nothing I could</i> do.

466
00:38:10,001 --> 00:38:12,336
<i>I couldn't get the weight off the rope,</i>

467
00:38:12,420 --> 00:38:13,963
<i>I was just there.</i>

468
00:38:14,046 --> 00:38:16,924
<i>This went on
for maybe an hour and a half</i>

469
00:38:17,008 --> 00:38:20,344
<i>during which time my position
became more and more desperate.</i>

470
00:38:20,428 --> 00:38:22,763
<i>I was struggling to maintain this seat.</i>

471
00:38:22,847 --> 00:38:27,310
<i>This sugary seat
that I was sat in, in the snow</i>

472
00:38:27,393 --> 00:38:30,104
<i>was gradually sliding away
from under me.</i>

473
00:38:33,566 --> 00:38:37,028
So my position was just getting...

474
00:38:37,111 --> 00:38:39,238
It was getting desperate, really.

475
00:38:39,322 --> 00:38:40,573
Joe!

476
00:38:45,620 --> 00:38:48,581
JOE: <i>I think, psychologically,</i>
<i>I was beaten.</i>

477
00:38:50,041 --> 00:38:51,876
<i>There was nothing I could do</i>

478
00:38:51,959 --> 00:38:54,754
<i>so I just hung on the rope
and waited to die.</i>

479
00:38:57,215 --> 00:39:00,510
<i>I think I would've died
pretty soon, actually.</i>

480
00:39:00,593 --> 00:39:02,762
<i>The wind chill was very low.</i>

481
00:39:08,100 --> 00:39:10,269
(CRACKLING)

482
00:39:15,441 --> 00:39:18,069
SIMON: <i>I was literally</i>
<i>going down the mountain</i>

483
00:39:18,152 --> 00:39:20,238
<i>in little jerky stages</i>

484
00:39:20,321 --> 00:39:25,493
<i>as this soft, sugary snow
collapsed away underneath me.</i>

485
00:39:26,494 --> 00:39:28,037
JOE: <i>I was expecting him to come off,</i>

486
00:39:28,120 --> 00:39:30,540
<i>and I couldn't do anything about it.</i>

487
00:39:30,623 --> 00:39:33,417
<i>He was gonna fall about 300 feet.</i>

488
00:39:33,501 --> 00:39:37,046
<i>You know, 150 feet away from me,
he was gonna fall double that.</i>

489
00:39:37,129 --> 00:39:38,756
<i>He was gonna die.</i>

490
00:39:41,133 --> 00:39:42,593
<i>He really didn't know</i>

491
00:39:42,677 --> 00:39:44,887
<i>whether I was 10 foot off the
ground, one foot off the ground,</i>

492
00:39:44,971 --> 00:39:46,430
<i>he just didn't know.</i>

493
00:39:46,514 --> 00:39:49,850
<i>But he knew pretty certainly
that he was gonna die.</i>

494
00:39:54,480 --> 00:39:55,982
SIMON: <i>Then I remembered</i>

495
00:39:56,065 --> 00:39:59,652
<i>that I'd got a penknife,
and it was in my rucksack.</i>

496
00:40:01,362 --> 00:40:05,157
I took the decision
pretty quickly, really.

497
00:40:05,950 --> 00:40:08,160
<i>To me, it just seemed
the right thing to do</i>

498
00:40:08,244 --> 00:40:10,329
<i>under the circumstances.</i>

499
00:40:14,834 --> 00:40:17,128
Because there was no way
that I could've...

500
00:40:17,211 --> 00:40:19,338
I couldn't maintain where I was.

501
00:40:19,422 --> 00:40:23,676
Sooner or later, I was going
to be pulled from the mountain.

502
00:40:26,053 --> 00:40:27,471
<i>I took the rucksack off</i>

503
00:40:27,555 --> 00:40:29,473
<i>and managed to unzip
the top pocket with one hand</i>

504
00:40:29,557 --> 00:40:31,517
<i>and get the penknife out.</i>

505
00:40:49,702 --> 00:40:50,703
(EXCLAIMS)

506
00:41:01,464 --> 00:41:03,549
(GASPING)

507
00:41:08,846 --> 00:41:10,723
(WIND HOWLING)

508
00:41:28,199 --> 00:41:30,159
SIMON: <i>It was an awful night.</i>

509
00:41:30,242 --> 00:41:33,996
<i>My mind was plagued with the thoughts
of what had happened to Joe.</i>

510
00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:36,749
<i>It took a long time to warm myself up.</i>

511
00:41:36,832 --> 00:41:41,337
<i>Really, I didn't properly,
I guess. I had a very cold night.</i>

512
00:41:46,759 --> 00:41:50,971
<i>The overriding memory was
feeling desperately thirsty.</i>

513
00:41:51,055 --> 00:41:52,306
To the point where I felt

514
00:41:52,390 --> 00:41:56,143
I could smell the water
in the snow around me.

515
00:41:56,227 --> 00:41:57,937
<i>I felt that very strongly.</i>

516
00:41:58,604 --> 00:42:00,731
<i>It was quite a strange thing.</i>

517
00:42:29,176 --> 00:42:31,762
(GASPS)

518
00:42:54,785 --> 00:42:57,329
JOE: <i>I didn't know</i>
<i>what had happened.</i>

519
00:42:57,413 --> 00:43:00,082
<i>What I'd landed on wasn't flat,
it was sloped on each side</i>

520
00:43:00,166 --> 00:43:02,626
<i>and I was sliding in the dark.</i>

521
00:43:08,340 --> 00:43:12,678
<i>I think I must have fallen
about 150 feet in total.</i>

522
00:43:12,928 --> 00:43:15,347
<i>I was pretty surprised to be alive.</i>

523
00:43:31,030 --> 00:43:33,783
<i>The head torch beam
just went down and down</i>

524
00:43:33,866 --> 00:43:36,535
<i>and the darkness just ate it,
it was just gone.</i>

525
00:43:38,746 --> 00:43:42,249
<i>I felt very unnerved,
very, very vulnerable.</i>

526
00:43:42,333 --> 00:43:46,378
<i>If I'd landed two or three feet
further to the right,</i>

527
00:43:46,462 --> 00:43:49,673
<i>I would’ve just gone down
this huge hole.</i>

528
00:43:50,508 --> 00:43:51,926
(GRUNTS)

529
00:43:52,676 --> 00:43:56,055
<i>I got this ice screw in pretty quickly.</i>

530
00:44:04,396 --> 00:44:07,983
And then looked around, thinking,

531
00:44:08,067 --> 00:44:12,947
"Jesus, it's gonna be nearly
impossible to get out of."

532
00:44:13,030 --> 00:44:14,573
(PANTING)

533
00:44:20,871 --> 00:44:23,290
<i>My rope was going
all the way up 80 feet</i>

534
00:44:23,374 --> 00:44:25,251
<i>up to this small entry hole.</i>

535
00:44:25,334 --> 00:44:28,587
<i>And I thought,</i>
<i>"Simon's on the end of that.</i> "

536
00:44:31,423 --> 00:44:33,843
<i>But I... I just felt sure he was dead.</i>

537
00:44:33,926 --> 00:44:35,261
And it didn't mean anything, really.

538
00:44:35,344 --> 00:44:37,471
I just thought,
"If I pull on this rope,

539
00:44:37,555 --> 00:44:39,181
"it'll come tight on his body."

540
00:44:39,265 --> 00:44:41,767
'Cause he would've flown off the cliff

541
00:44:41,851 --> 00:44:44,103
onto the down side of the crevasse

542
00:44:44,186 --> 00:44:46,939
and then, lying dead there
like a counterweight,

543
00:44:47,022 --> 00:44:50,943
the rope would've come back up
and then dropped into the crevasse.

544
00:44:51,026 --> 00:44:53,612
So I thought, "If I pull on this rope,
it'll come tight on his body."

545
00:45:10,129 --> 00:45:13,883
<i>And it just kept coming
and kept coming and kept coming.</i>

546
00:45:28,731 --> 00:45:32,318
<i>As soon as I saw it,
I knew it had been cut.</i>

547
00:45:40,993 --> 00:45:43,621
<i>I thought, "You're gonna die in here.</i> "

548
00:45:46,540 --> 00:45:52,129
<i>I had a pleased feeling
that it meant Simon was alive.</i>

549
00:45:54,465 --> 00:45:57,009
Simon!

550
00:45:59,386 --> 00:46:00,638
Simon!

551
00:46:00,721 --> 00:46:03,015
(WIND HOWLING)

552
00:46:09,021 --> 00:46:12,441
<i>Looking at where I was,
it was an awful prospect.</i>

553
00:46:13,359 --> 00:46:15,986
You know, you don't die of a broken leg.

554
00:46:16,070 --> 00:46:17,863
(GASPING)

555
00:46:27,289 --> 00:46:31,377
<i>I think I did turn my head
torch off to save the batteries.</i>

556
00:46:45,808 --> 00:46:48,727
<i>It was dark, and it began to get to me.</i>

557
00:46:58,862 --> 00:47:01,407
<i>There is something about crevasses.</i>

558
00:47:02,366 --> 00:47:04,994
<i>They have a dread feel,</i>

559
00:47:05,077 --> 00:47:07,079
<i>not a place for the living.</i>

560
00:47:14,378 --> 00:47:20,759
<i>I could hear the ice cracking
and wind noises in the ice.</i>

561
00:47:22,720 --> 00:47:24,847
<i>I turned the light on again</i>

562
00:47:24,930 --> 00:47:27,516
<i>'cause I didn't like it in the dark.</i>

563
00:47:28,350 --> 00:47:32,104
(BREATHING HEAVILY)

564
00:47:40,571 --> 00:47:43,323
I felt very, very alone.

565
00:47:45,617 --> 00:47:48,328
And I was very scared.

566
00:47:48,412 --> 00:47:50,372
(CRACKING)

567
00:47:50,456 --> 00:47:54,543
I was also...
I was 2 <i>5,</i> you know.

568
00:47:54,626 --> 00:47:56,086
I was fit.

569
00:47:56,628 --> 00:47:59,131
I was super ambitious. And...

570
00:47:59,923 --> 00:48:03,343
And this was the first trip we'd been
on, and I wanted to climb the world.

571
00:48:03,427 --> 00:48:05,429
And it just didn't seem...

572
00:48:05,888 --> 00:48:08,348
This hadn't been part of our game plan.

573
00:48:14,354 --> 00:48:16,315
<i>It must have been quite late.</i>

574
00:48:16,398 --> 00:48:21,320
<i>I think that I pretty much was
thinking I wasn't gonna get out.</i>

575
00:48:24,156 --> 00:48:25,407
(SCOFFS)

576
00:48:25,491 --> 00:48:28,118
Stupid. Stupid.

577
00:48:30,829 --> 00:48:32,498
Stupid.

578
00:48:33,082 --> 00:48:35,125
Stupid!

579
00:48:37,169 --> 00:48:39,004
Stupid!

580
00:48:41,006 --> 00:48:42,382
Stupid!

581
00:48:42,966 --> 00:48:44,843
Stupid!

582
00:48:46,345 --> 00:48:47,554
Stupid!

583
00:48:48,555 --> 00:48:49,848
(SOBS)

584
00:48:56,021 --> 00:48:57,856
Fuck!

585
00:48:58,148 --> 00:49:00,234
Fuck!

586
00:49:04,530 --> 00:49:05,948
Fuck!

587
00:49:06,031 --> 00:49:09,493
JOE: <i>As a climber</i>
<i>you should always be in control.</i>

588
00:49:09,576 --> 00:49:10,911
<i>You have to be in control.</i>

589
00:49:10,994 --> 00:49:14,623
<i>So doing that could be seen as
a mark of failure. You've lost it.</i>

590
00:49:14,706 --> 00:49:17,459
Fuck! Fuck! You cunt!

591
00:49:17,543 --> 00:49:21,004
You fucking, fucking...
You fucking cunt!

592
00:49:21,630 --> 00:49:23,257
You cunt!

593
00:49:23,799 --> 00:49:25,092
Cunt!

594
00:49:26,135 --> 00:49:28,428
(SOBS)

595
00:49:38,355 --> 00:49:41,358
<i>It was just childish.
I just cried and cried.</i>

596
00:49:41,441 --> 00:49:43,318
I thought...

597
00:49:44,403 --> 00:49:46,321
I thought I was...

598
00:49:46,905 --> 00:49:48,699
That I'd be tougher than that.

599
00:50:20,105 --> 00:50:23,567
<i>It was getting lighter,
so it was 5:00 or 6:00.</i>

600
00:50:25,152 --> 00:50:27,529
<i>And I started screaming
Simon's name again.</i>

601
00:50:27,613 --> 00:50:29,698
Simon!

602
00:50:34,494 --> 00:50:36,663
I got myself up,

603
00:50:36,747 --> 00:50:40,500
got dressed inside the snow hole
and packed everything away.

604
00:50:44,504 --> 00:50:46,798
<i>There was just a horrible
feeling of dread.</i>

605
00:50:46,882 --> 00:50:48,759
By this stage I strongly felt

606
00:50:48,842 --> 00:50:51,470
that Joe had been
killed the previous day

607
00:50:51,553 --> 00:50:53,597
and that now I was going to die

608
00:50:53,680 --> 00:50:58,310
as some sort of, form of,
you know, retribution.

609
00:51:00,812 --> 00:51:04,900
But rather than just sit here
feeling sorry for myself,

610
00:51:04,983 --> 00:51:09,321
I'll get on with it
and I'll die on the way down.

611
00:51:13,158 --> 00:51:15,327
<i>Very quickly
the ground dropped away steeply</i>

612
00:51:15,410 --> 00:51:19,164
<i>so I skirted around
this area of steeper ground.</i>

613
00:51:26,672 --> 00:51:29,675
As I abseiled down, I could
see this overhanging ice cliff,

614
00:51:30,509 --> 00:51:32,427
which is what I had lowered him over

615
00:51:32,511 --> 00:51:35,180
so I knew that he'd have
been hanging in space,

616
00:51:35,264 --> 00:51:38,141
which is the reason he couldn't
get his weight off the rope.

617
00:51:41,436 --> 00:51:42,771
As I went down lower,

618
00:51:42,854 --> 00:51:45,732
I could see to my horror,
at the base of this ice cliff

619
00:51:45,816 --> 00:51:48,193
was an absolutely enormous crevasse.

620
00:51:50,153 --> 00:51:51,905
<i>About 30 feet wide</i>

621
00:51:51,989 --> 00:51:55,534
<i>and just bottomless
from where I was looking at it.</i>

622
00:52:01,581 --> 00:52:03,500
JOE: Simon!

623
00:52:04,710 --> 00:52:06,712
JOE: <i>He would've been</i>
<i>up at first light, I thought.</i>

624
00:52:06,795 --> 00:52:10,173
'Cause I was desperately thirsty,
and he would've been,

625
00:52:10,257 --> 00:52:13,385
and he would've wanted to
get down and get water.

626
00:52:14,344 --> 00:52:16,346
And he would've wanted to find me.

627
00:52:17,139 --> 00:52:20,684
Now, I did stop and pause
and I shouted into the crevasse.

628
00:52:20,767 --> 00:52:23,437
I yelled and yelled
and yelled, "Joe! Joe!"

629
00:52:25,063 --> 00:52:28,775
And I suppose again,
with the benefit of hindsight,

630
00:52:28,859 --> 00:52:30,944
after I'd got off the rope,

631
00:52:31,028 --> 00:52:34,239
I should've gone
and looked into the crevasse

632
00:52:34,323 --> 00:52:36,325
to see where he was.

633
00:52:36,408 --> 00:52:39,411
But to be quite honest,

634
00:52:39,494 --> 00:52:43,248
the thought didn't occur to me
at that time.

635
00:52:43,582 --> 00:52:46,043
<i>I was just convinced he was dead.</i>

636
00:52:51,089 --> 00:52:52,758
Simon!

637
00:52:54,217 --> 00:52:57,846
JOE: <i>Absolutely convinced by 10:00,</i>
<i>totally convinced,</i>

638
00:52:57,929 --> 00:52:59,890
<i>that I was on my own,</i>

639
00:53:00,223 --> 00:53:03,602
<i>that no one was coming to get me.</i>

640
00:53:08,940 --> 00:53:11,777
<i>I was brought up
as a devout Catholic.</i>

641
00:53:12,402 --> 00:53:15,197
<i>I had long since
stopped believing in God.</i>

642
00:53:15,280 --> 00:53:19,034
I always wondered,
if things really hit the fan,

643
00:53:19,117 --> 00:53:23,872
whether I would, under pressure,
turn round and say a few Hail Marys

644
00:53:23,955 --> 00:53:26,416
and say, "Get me out of here."

645
00:53:27,459 --> 00:53:29,586
<i>It never once occurred to me.</i>

646
00:53:31,129 --> 00:53:33,382
<i>It meant that I really don't believe.</i>

647
00:53:33,715 --> 00:53:36,218
<i>And I really do think
that when you die, you die.</i>

648
00:53:36,301 --> 00:53:38,303
<i>That's it. There's no afterlife.</i>

649
00:53:38,387 --> 00:53:39,638
<i>There's nothing.</i>

650
00:53:45,644 --> 00:53:48,230
<i>And I was thinking,
"Could I climb out of here?"</i>

651
00:54:28,728 --> 00:54:30,272
(CRIES OUT IN PAIN)

652
00:54:34,276 --> 00:54:36,194
(SCREAMS)

653
00:54:36,278 --> 00:54:37,863
<i>80 foot of overhanging ice?</i>

654
00:54:37,946 --> 00:54:40,031
<i>No way.
I couldn't do it with a good leg.</i>

655
00:54:44,161 --> 00:54:46,496
RICHARD: <i>I knew</i>
<i>that they were both dead.</i>

656
00:54:46,580 --> 00:54:50,834
But I couldn't just
clear off and leave the camp.

657
00:54:50,917 --> 00:54:53,795
For one thing,
I didn't know anything about them

658
00:54:53,879 --> 00:54:56,339
except for their first names,
Joe and Simon.

659
00:54:56,882 --> 00:55:00,385
I didn't know their family names.
I really knew nothing about them.

660
00:55:00,844 --> 00:55:04,556
<i>And I had this bizarre idea that
if they'd fallen off the mountain,</i>

661
00:55:04,973 --> 00:55:07,767
<i>they would have just landed
at the bottom of it.</i>

662
00:55:08,518 --> 00:55:11,396
<i>And I thought perhaps that
from the bottom of the glacier,</i>

663
00:55:11,563 --> 00:55:13,398
<i>I'd be able to see them.</i>

664
00:55:14,065 --> 00:55:18,570
<i>And set off with the aim
of going as far as I could.</i>

665
00:55:21,031 --> 00:55:23,825
SIMON: <i>I started to go down</i>
<i>the glacier on my own.</i>

666
00:55:24,284 --> 00:55:27,746
<i>And at this stage, I was still certain
that I was going to die myself</i>

667
00:55:29,623 --> 00:55:33,001
<i>Crossing a glacier is very,
very dangerous on your own,</i>

668
00:55:33,418 --> 00:55:37,255
<i>because there are crevasses in the ice,
and the snow covers them.</i>

669
00:55:38,965 --> 00:55:42,260
<i>Fortunately, I managed to find
a faint outline of our tracks,</i>

670
00:55:42,344 --> 00:55:44,095
<i>from when we walked in.</i>

671
00:55:45,597 --> 00:55:49,643
As it was only
when I got off the glacier

672
00:55:49,768 --> 00:55:54,189
I realised that I was gonna
get down and I was gonna get out of it,

673
00:55:54,272 --> 00:55:56,233
I was gonna live.

674
00:56:08,828 --> 00:56:13,792
JOE: <i>I can't really describe</i>
<i>how scary the night had been.</i>

675
00:56:18,421 --> 00:56:21,967
<i>I thought,</i>
<i>"It'll be like that for days.</i> "

676
00:56:25,136 --> 00:56:28,223
You've got to make decisions,
keep making decisions,

677
00:56:28,306 --> 00:56:31,309
even if they're wrong decisions,
you know.

678
00:56:33,103 --> 00:56:35,564
If you don't make decisions,
you're stuffed.

679
00:56:54,374 --> 00:56:56,334
JOE: <i>Short of dying</i>
<i>on the ledge,</i>

680
00:56:56,418 --> 00:57:01,464
<i>my only chance was to lower
myself deeper into the crevasse.</i>

681
00:57:03,883 --> 00:57:06,595
<i>I didn't know
what I would find down there.</i>

682
00:57:06,678 --> 00:57:11,224
<i>I was just hoping
there might be some way out</i>

683
00:57:11,308 --> 00:57:13,977
<i>in the labyrinth of ice and snow.</i>

684
00:57:16,688 --> 00:57:19,608
<i>I really struggled
to make that decision.</i>

685
00:57:19,691 --> 00:57:21,693
<i>I was so scared of going deeper.</i>

686
00:57:23,069 --> 00:57:25,071
(PANTING)

687
00:57:32,537 --> 00:57:34,873
The other option was just to sit there,

688
00:57:34,956 --> 00:57:37,292
blindly hoping
that somehow it might get better

689
00:57:37,375 --> 00:57:39,711
and I just knew
it wasn't going to get better.

690
00:57:51,473 --> 00:57:54,059
(PANTING)

691
00:58:08,740 --> 00:58:11,159
<i>I didn't want to look down.</i>

692
00:58:11,910 --> 00:58:16,247
<i>I was horrified at the thought
it was just empty down there.</i>

693
00:58:30,804 --> 00:58:32,806
(GRUNTS)

694
00:58:33,932 --> 00:58:36,601
<i>I didn't put a knot
in the end of the rope.</i>

695
00:58:36,935 --> 00:58:38,520
<i>If there was nothing down there,</i>

696
00:58:38,603 --> 00:58:40,522
<i>I wouldn't be able to hold the rope</i>

697
00:58:40,605 --> 00:58:43,566
<i>and then I would fall,
it would be quick.</i>

698
00:58:43,900 --> 00:58:44,901
Fuck!

699
00:59:05,797 --> 00:59:08,258
<i>I thought, "Jesus, this is big.</i> "

700
00:59:15,140 --> 00:59:17,475
(PANTING)

701
00:59:20,186 --> 00:59:25,191
By this stage, I was
completely physically done in,

702
00:59:25,275 --> 00:59:28,611
staggering back down these moraines,
still desperately thirsty.

703
00:59:30,864 --> 00:59:33,408
There were all these thoughts
swirling around in my mind,

704
00:59:33,491 --> 00:59:37,954
guilt, worry, thinking about how
on earth I'm gonna explain this

705
00:59:38,037 --> 00:59:41,833
to Joe's parents, my friends,
to Richard.

706
00:59:44,919 --> 00:59:46,504
<i>The thought did cross my mind</i>

707
00:59:46,588 --> 00:59:48,757
<i>that maybe I could think up
a decent story</i>

708
00:59:48,840 --> 00:59:50,884
<i>that would make me look better.</i>

709
00:59:53,219 --> 00:59:56,181
<i>And I did think about that
for quite a while.</i>

710
01:00:04,022 --> 01:00:06,608
RICHARD: The only image
that sticks in my mind

711
01:00:06,691 --> 01:00:08,526
from all the time in Peru

712
01:00:09,194 --> 01:00:12,071
is seeing this figure.

713
01:00:12,530 --> 01:00:17,494
<i>And it was fairly close
before I could see who it was.</i>

714
01:00:20,663 --> 01:00:23,208
But he looked absolutely horrendous.

715
01:00:24,292 --> 01:00:26,252
<i>You wouldn't recognise him.</i>

716
01:00:30,340 --> 01:00:33,551
<i>And I said, "Where’s Joe?"</i>

717
01:00:34,135 --> 01:00:36,304
<i>And he just said, "Joe's dead.</i> "

718
01:00:37,013 --> 01:00:39,098
I told him the whole story.

719
01:00:39,182 --> 01:00:40,850
As we walked back to the camp

720
01:00:40,934 --> 01:00:45,313
I told him the whole story
of what had happened.

721
01:00:45,396 --> 01:00:50,693
He wasn't
in the slightest bit judgemental

722
01:00:50,777 --> 01:00:53,988
about me or what I'd done.

723
01:00:54,072 --> 01:00:56,241
<i>He took it very well.</i>

724
01:01:08,711 --> 01:01:10,380
(ICE SHATTERING)

725
01:01:12,632 --> 01:01:17,011
JOE: <i>I must have</i>
<i>lowered myself about 80 feet</i>

726
01:01:17,512 --> 01:01:21,099
<i>from where the ice screw was
at the bridge.</i>

727
01:01:25,103 --> 01:01:27,230
<i>I was now in the base</i> of..

728
01:01:27,313 --> 01:01:29,691
<i>Seemed to be in the base of a crevasse</i>

729
01:01:29,774 --> 01:01:31,568
<i>that was shaped like a big hourglass.</i>

730
01:01:31,651 --> 01:01:34,112
<i>To the ceiling was about 160 feet.</i>

731
01:01:35,113 --> 01:01:38,783
<i>I think it's as big as
St. Paul's dome in scale.</i>

732
01:01:41,995 --> 01:01:43,329
<i>I remember looking down</i>

733
01:01:43,413 --> 01:01:46,040
<i>and there was solid snow,</i>

734
01:01:46,124 --> 01:01:49,627
<i>and I thought, "This is</i>
<i>the bottom of the crevasse.</i> "

735
01:01:55,466 --> 01:02:00,471
<i>About 50 feet away from me
there was a slope leading up.</i>

736
01:02:01,055 --> 01:02:02,390
And right at the top,

737
01:02:02,473 --> 01:02:04,851
there was this sun
coming through this hole.

738
01:02:04,934 --> 01:02:06,561
And...

739
01:02:06,644 --> 01:02:10,690
It was shining, there was this
big beam of sunlight coming in.

740
01:02:14,360 --> 01:02:16,946
<i>This was the way out
I'd been looking for.</i>

741
01:02:20,742 --> 01:02:23,745
I remember thinking,
"Whoa, I can climb that slope,

742
01:02:23,828 --> 01:02:25,955
"I bloody well will climb that slope.

743
01:02:27,123 --> 01:02:28,875
<i>"I'll crawl across this flat floor,</i> "

744
01:02:28,958 --> 01:02:31,753
<i>and I started crawling across
on my stomach.</i>

745
01:02:31,836 --> 01:02:33,880
(GRUNTING)

746
01:02:39,552 --> 01:02:41,429
(RUMBLING)

747
01:02:42,972 --> 01:02:46,225
<i>Then I heard things
breaking away underneath me.</i>

748
01:02:48,603 --> 01:02:51,856
<i>I realised that
this wasn't a solid floor.</i>

749
01:02:51,940 --> 01:02:54,400
<i>It seemed to be hollow underneath.</i>

750
01:02:56,694 --> 01:02:58,655
<i>I was absolutely horrified.</i>

751
01:03:02,533 --> 01:03:05,244
<i>It was suddenly as if
I was on an eggshell.</i>

752
01:03:08,289 --> 01:03:12,794
<i>If I break through I'll never be
able to get across to this slope</i>

753
01:03:12,877 --> 01:03:14,295
<i>and that was my way out.</i>

754
01:03:33,106 --> 01:03:36,776
<i>I thought, "Right, I'm on it,</i>
<i>this is solid now.</i> "

755
01:03:42,532 --> 01:03:45,118
<i>I started to get my axes in and hop up.</i>

756
01:03:49,414 --> 01:03:50,415
(GRUNTS)

757
01:03:50,498 --> 01:03:52,166
<i>It was extremely painful.</i>

758
01:03:52,250 --> 01:03:55,378
As your legs hopped up,
they both came down together.

759
01:03:58,423 --> 01:04:00,008
<i>I'd try and get into a body position</i>

760
01:04:00,091 --> 01:04:02,260
<i>so my left foot went in first.</i>

761
01:04:03,469 --> 01:04:06,180
<i>But I inevitably
went onto my broken leg.</i>

762
01:04:06,264 --> 01:04:07,932
(SCREAMS)

763
01:04:08,975 --> 01:04:12,353
<i>I'd feel the displacement go,
the bone move.</i>

764
01:04:12,437 --> 01:04:14,564
<i>At every hop I'd nearly faint.</i>

765
01:04:16,190 --> 01:04:18,943
<i>It was just excruciatingly painful.</i>

766
01:05:14,248 --> 01:05:17,293
JOE: <i>And it was</i>
<i>a bright sunny day.</i>

767
01:05:18,169 --> 01:05:20,797
<i>Wow. The whole world
had just come back.</i>

768
01:05:24,675 --> 01:05:28,179
<i>I was lying on the snow, just laughing.</i>

769
01:05:28,262 --> 01:05:30,431
(LAUGHS)

770
01:05:37,522 --> 01:05:40,483
<i>That was the relief
of getting out of that place.</i>

771
01:05:45,363 --> 01:05:47,740
(LAUGHING)

772
01:05:50,868 --> 01:05:52,245
(SIGHS)

773
01:06:16,185 --> 01:06:17,979
<i>And I then looked at the glacier</i>

774
01:06:18,062 --> 01:06:21,065
<i>and I thought, "Well,
you haven't even started, mate,</i>

775
01:06:21,149 --> 01:06:22,817
<i>"it's miles, it's miles, "</i>

776
01:06:22,900 --> 01:06:25,236
<i>and on really bad ground.</i>

777
01:06:45,089 --> 01:06:47,550
<i>And I think I was contemplating
just sitting there,</i>

778
01:06:47,633 --> 01:06:49,677
<i>because I was coming at this</i>

779
01:06:49,760 --> 01:06:53,556
<i>having done the most
serious climb of my life.</i>

780
01:06:53,639 --> 01:06:55,975
If you come down safe
from a climb like that

781
01:06:56,058 --> 01:06:59,812
you'd be exhausted for days,
you'd just eat and drink and sleep.

782
01:07:01,439 --> 01:07:02,940
I'd just come out of that,

783
01:07:03,608 --> 01:07:06,360
I'd badly broken a leg,

784
01:07:06,444 --> 01:07:08,529
I was in great pain,
I was highly dehydrated,

785
01:07:08,613 --> 01:07:09,780
I had no food,

786
01:07:09,864 --> 01:07:12,366
and I was looking at trying to do that.

787
01:07:12,450 --> 01:07:15,453
There's just no way
you're physically gonna do that.

788
01:07:16,829 --> 01:07:18,206
<i>Then it occurred to me</i>

789
01:07:18,289 --> 01:07:22,168
<i>that maybe I should
set definite targets.</i>

790
01:07:24,128 --> 01:07:26,756
<i>I started to look at things and think,</i>

791
01:07:26,839 --> 01:07:30,051
<i>"Right, if I can get to that crevasse
over there in 20 minutes,</i>

792
01:07:30,134 --> 01:07:31,969
<i>"that's what I'm gonna</i> do. "

793
01:07:33,638 --> 01:07:38,100
<i>If I got there in 18 minutes,
I was hysterically happy about it</i>

794
01:07:38,184 --> 01:07:40,603
<i>and if I got there in 22 or 24 minutes,</i>

795
01:07:40,686 --> 01:07:42,647
<i>I was upset
almost to the point of tears.</i>

796
01:07:42,730 --> 01:07:44,440
<i>And it became obsessive.</i>

797
01:07:48,653 --> 01:07:50,363
<i>I don't know why I did it.</i>

798
01:07:50,446 --> 01:07:52,406
<i>I think I knew the big picture</i>

799
01:07:52,490 --> 01:07:54,909
<i>of what was happening to me
and what I had to do</i>

800
01:07:54,992 --> 01:07:57,203
<i>was so big I couldn't deal with it.</i>

801
01:08:41,455 --> 01:08:44,583
<i>I stayed on Simon's tracks,
and they were weaving around,</i>

802
01:08:44,667 --> 01:08:47,420
<i>over humps and past
obvious crevasses and stuff</i>

803
01:08:47,503 --> 01:08:51,090
<i>I thought, "Unless I come to
a hole with his body at the bottom,</i>

804
01:08:51,173 --> 01:08:52,883
<i>"these tracks will lead me</i>

805
01:08:52,967 --> 01:08:55,720
<i>"through the minefield of crevasses.</i> "

806
01:09:04,812 --> 01:09:07,273
<i>You've got these huge
mountains around you,</i>

807
01:09:07,356 --> 01:09:09,400
<i>you know, big mountain walls,</i>

808
01:09:10,318 --> 01:09:13,404
<i>and they do make you feel
small and vulnerable</i>

809
01:09:13,487 --> 01:09:17,491
<i>and you wonder whether there's
some sort of malign presence</i>

810
01:09:17,575 --> 01:09:19,660
<i>that's out to get you.</i>

811
01:09:31,422 --> 01:09:34,508
<i>It was like somebody
was just teasing an ant</i>

812
01:09:34,592 --> 01:09:36,677
<i>and putting something
in its way all the time</i>

813
01:09:36,761 --> 01:09:38,763
<i>and was eventually gonna stand on it.</i>

814
01:09:41,140 --> 01:09:43,476
(WIND WHISTLING)

815
01:10:41,200 --> 01:10:44,203
<i>I could see that
Simon's tracks were filling in.</i>

816
01:10:44,995 --> 01:10:48,040
<i>They were my lifeline off the glacier.</i>

817
01:10:48,499 --> 01:10:49,583
(GROANS)

818
01:10:49,667 --> 01:10:52,086
<i>And I started to get very desperate.</i>

819
01:11:08,769 --> 01:11:10,604
<i>I carried on crawling in the dark,</i>

820
01:11:10,688 --> 01:11:13,774
<i>which is a stupid thing to do unroped
on a glacier, but I was frightened</i>

821
01:11:13,858 --> 01:11:16,819
<i>and I was just trying
to see Simon's tracks.</i>

822
01:11:39,884 --> 01:11:43,053
<i>In the morning,
it was a bright sunny day.</i>

823
01:11:43,137 --> 01:11:45,097
<i>All the tracks had gone.</i>

824
01:11:53,731 --> 01:11:56,358
<i>And I started quite early.</i>

825
01:11:56,442 --> 01:11:58,319
And every now and then
I had to stand up on one leg

826
01:11:58,402 --> 01:12:00,488
and look around to try and see the way

827
01:12:00,571 --> 01:12:04,575
and then sit down again
and shuffle along.

828
01:12:16,504 --> 01:12:18,214
(GRUNTING)

829
01:12:34,355 --> 01:12:37,858
<i>There was one very horrendously
crevassed bit right near the edge</i>

830
01:12:37,942 --> 01:12:41,111
<i>and I ended up
in a maze of them.</i>

831
01:13:07,972 --> 01:13:11,308
I suddenly came to a point
where I could see ice running down

832
01:13:11,392 --> 01:13:13,394
and then I could see rocks.

833
01:13:17,815 --> 01:13:20,150
(SCREAMS)

834
01:13:24,738 --> 01:13:29,535
RICHARD: <i>It was probably me</i>
<i>that brought up the subject of leaving,</i>

835
01:13:29,618 --> 01:13:31,787
<i>partly 'cause I was
worried about Simon.</i>

836
01:13:31,870 --> 01:13:34,957
<i>I just felt it was best
to get as far away as possible</i>

837
01:13:35,040 --> 01:13:37,001
<i>from where it had happened.</i>

838
01:13:39,753 --> 01:13:42,339
SIMON: <i>I didn't want</i>
<i>to leave immediately,</i>

839
01:13:42,423 --> 01:13:48,095
<i>I felt I needed a day or two
just to collect my thoughts</i>

840
01:13:48,178 --> 01:13:50,764
<i>and to regain some strength, really.</i>

841
01:13:57,605 --> 01:14:01,400
I spent a long time washing myself.

842
01:14:05,863 --> 01:14:08,907
<i>That felt sort of quite good,
to wash my hair</i>

843
01:14:08,991 --> 01:14:12,870
<i>and to wash my face,</i>
<i>to have a shave, to sort</i> of..

844
01:14:13,579 --> 01:14:15,664
Get the...

845
01:14:16,874 --> 01:14:21,045
Get the remnants of the mountain
out of my system, really.

846
01:14:54,078 --> 01:14:55,996
JOE: <i>I was desperately thirsty,</i>

847
01:14:56,080 --> 01:14:57,956
<i>because it doesn't matter
how much snow you eat,</i>

848
01:14:58,040 --> 01:14:59,792
<i>you can't get enough
water into your system.</i>

849
01:15:02,002 --> 01:15:05,089
And I saw the rocks, I knew
how big these boulders would be

850
01:15:05,172 --> 01:15:06,423
and how far it was,

851
01:15:06,590 --> 01:15:10,594
and that was the first time I really
thought about whether I could...

852
01:15:10,678 --> 01:15:12,471
Could get the distance.

853
01:15:18,268 --> 01:15:19,937
<i>I got rid of all my gear.</i>

854
01:15:35,953 --> 01:15:38,372
<i>I knew that I couldn't
crawl over these rocks,</i>

855
01:15:38,455 --> 01:15:39,957
<i>they were just</i> too <i>big and jumbled</i>

856
01:15:40,040 --> 01:15:42,793
<i>and the only way to do it
was to try and hop.</i>

857
01:15:45,087 --> 01:15:47,297
<i>So I knew I was gonna fall a lot.</i>

858
01:15:47,381 --> 01:15:48,382
(GRUNTS)

859
01:16:00,436 --> 01:16:01,437
(GRUNTS)

860
01:16:09,611 --> 01:16:11,155
(GROANS)

861
01:16:23,542 --> 01:16:24,710
(SCREAMS)

862
01:16:41,226 --> 01:16:42,227
(WHIMPERS)

863
01:16:42,811 --> 01:16:43,812
(SHOUTS)

864
01:16:45,063 --> 01:16:47,065
<i>I'd fall on virtually every hop,</i>

865
01:16:47,149 --> 01:16:49,735
<i>and it's like having
your leg broken every time.</i>

866
01:16:49,818 --> 01:16:53,363
<i>I remember looking back
at where I'd come from</i>

867
01:16:53,447 --> 01:16:56,283
<i>and it was 25 yards,
and it had taken ages,</i>

868
01:16:56,366 --> 01:16:58,535
<i>and the pain just to get that 25yards.</i>

869
01:17:01,747 --> 01:17:03,874
(SCREAMS)

870
01:17:11,590 --> 01:17:14,384
<i>I can be insanely stubborn,</i>

871
01:17:14,968 --> 01:17:18,847
<i>and I do like to have things my way,</i>

872
01:17:18,931 --> 01:17:23,644
<i>and things were seriously not
going my way over these days.</i>

873
01:17:29,817 --> 01:17:31,401
<i>I'd look at a rock and I'd go,</i>

874
01:17:31,485 --> 01:17:34,530
<i>"Right. Get there in 20 minutes."</i>

875
01:17:35,155 --> 01:17:39,117
once I decided I was going to
get that distance in 20 minutes,

876
01:17:39,201 --> 01:17:40,911
I bloody well was gonna do it.

877
01:17:41,703 --> 01:17:43,413
(GRUNTS)

878
01:17:44,540 --> 01:17:45,707
And it would help me,

879
01:17:45,791 --> 01:17:48,752
because I'd get halfway through
the distance and I'd be in such pain,

880
01:17:49,086 --> 01:17:52,631
I just couldn't bear the thought
of getting up and falling on it again.

881
01:17:53,090 --> 01:17:55,175
But I'd look
at the target and I'd think,

882
01:17:55,259 --> 01:17:56,844
"I've gotta get there."

883
01:18:07,396 --> 01:18:09,690
<i>And I'd think, "I'll just</i>
<i>lie here a bit longer here.</i> "

884
01:18:09,773 --> 01:18:12,943
<i>"No, you've gotta get there!</i>
<i>You've only got ten minutes left.</i> "

885
01:18:16,446 --> 01:18:20,868
It seemed like there was
a very cold, pragmatic part of me

886
01:18:20,951 --> 01:18:23,579
that was saying,
"You have to do this, this and this

887
01:18:23,662 --> 01:18:25,747
"if you're gonna get there."

888
01:18:41,805 --> 01:18:44,433
<i>"Come on, keep moving, keep moving.</i> "

889
01:18:51,815 --> 01:18:53,859
<i>"Right, get up and do it again.</i> "

890
01:19:00,824 --> 01:19:02,576
It was quite insistent

891
01:19:03,744 --> 01:19:05,454
and quite clear.

892
01:19:05,579 --> 01:19:09,416
<i>It was almost like a voice,
or a separate part of me,</i>

893
01:19:09,499 --> 01:19:11,668
<i>telling me to do something.</i>

894
01:19:14,463 --> 01:19:16,590
Very uncaring,

895
01:19:17,090 --> 01:19:18,926
no sympathy, no...

896
01:19:19,009 --> 01:19:22,095
No acknowledgement of the fact
that I might be tired

897
01:19:22,179 --> 01:19:26,350
or hurt or anything like that.
It was very, very odd.

898
01:19:35,025 --> 01:19:35,984
(GRUNTS)

899
01:19:36,068 --> 01:19:41,239
<i>So part of me kept saying,</i>
<i>"Keep moving, stop resting.</i> "

900
01:19:41,323 --> 01:19:43,784
And the other part of me,
my mind anyway,

901
01:19:43,867 --> 01:19:47,454
just was, like, looking around
and absorbing things.

902
01:19:47,537 --> 01:19:51,333
And as the hours went and certainly
as the day started to go,

903
01:19:51,416 --> 01:19:53,585
it became weirder and weirder.

904
01:20:42,843 --> 01:20:46,471
<i>I was very, very, very thirsty,
very dehydrated.</i>

905
01:20:50,767 --> 01:20:54,104
The agonising thing is,
all these boulders, these moraines,

906
01:20:54,187 --> 01:20:56,314
are on top of the glacier

907
01:20:56,398 --> 01:20:59,693
and you could hear water
running all the time.

908
01:20:59,776 --> 01:21:02,279
(WATER DRIPPING)

909
01:21:08,618 --> 01:21:10,579
<i>I'd fall over and I'd hear water</i>

910
01:21:10,662 --> 01:21:13,040
<i>and I'd start digging around
searching for it.</i>

911
01:21:13,749 --> 01:21:15,751
(WATER TRICKLING)

912
01:21:36,897 --> 01:21:39,274
<i>Couldn't find it, couldn't get it.</i>

913
01:21:39,357 --> 01:21:42,736
<i>And it was driving me mad,
to be able to hear water.</i>

914
01:21:44,112 --> 01:21:45,697
(MOANS)

915
01:21:47,115 --> 01:21:49,034
(WATER FLOWING)

916
01:22:08,095 --> 01:22:12,557
RICHARD: <i>I was worried</i>
<i>about Simon, about his health,</i>

917
01:22:12,641 --> 01:22:16,144
because his fingertips were
still quite bad from frostbite.

918
01:22:16,228 --> 01:22:19,815
<i>And I just felt it wasn't
a place to be lingering in.</i>

919
01:22:21,191 --> 01:22:24,611
<i>We just started getting ready
to leave in the morning.</i>

920
01:22:32,244 --> 01:22:34,788
JOE: <i>I did eventually</i>
<i>collapse amid the rocks</i>

921
01:22:34,871 --> 01:22:36,623
<i>and I didn't sleep very well.</i>

922
01:22:36,706 --> 01:22:39,584
<i>My leg was very painful, it was agony.</i>

923
01:22:40,836 --> 01:22:43,380
<i>It was the first night,
I think, it hadn't stormed.</i>

924
01:22:43,463 --> 01:22:45,882
<i>It didn't snow on me and didn't rain</i>

925
01:22:46,633 --> 01:22:49,261
<i>and I could see the stars.
I can remember lying on my back</i>

926
01:22:49,344 --> 01:22:52,806
<i>for what seemed endless periods of time,</i>

927
01:22:52,889 --> 01:22:54,349
<i>staring at the stars.</i>

928
01:22:57,227 --> 01:22:59,437
<i>At one point I had this weird sensation</i>

929
01:22:59,521 --> 01:23:03,483
<i>that I'd lain there conscious
for centuries, for lifetimes,</i>

930
01:23:03,567 --> 01:23:05,402
<i>becoming part of the rocks</i>

931
01:23:05,485 --> 01:23:08,572
<i>and part of where I was
never gonna move from.</i>

932
01:23:30,802 --> 01:23:33,513
<i>The sun came up
and it started to warm me.</i>

933
01:23:33,847 --> 01:23:37,184
And I thought it would be
so nice to just lie there,

934
01:23:37,267 --> 01:23:39,519
don't move and then it won't hurt,

935
01:23:39,603 --> 01:23:43,648
and Christ, I got so,
so close to doing that.

936
01:23:50,697 --> 01:23:53,283
<i>I genuinely believed that
I wouldn't make the distance</i>

937
01:23:53,366 --> 01:23:55,785
<i>and I also believed
that I was going to die.</i>

938
01:23:55,869 --> 01:23:59,122
<i>And I sort of acknowledged it
in a very matter-of-fact way.</i>

939
01:24:03,335 --> 01:24:05,545
<i>And it seemed very irrational
to keep on crawling</i>

940
01:24:05,629 --> 01:24:08,632
<i>if you didn't think
it was gonna be of any good.</i>

941
01:24:08,965 --> 01:24:09,966
(GROANS)

942
01:24:11,384 --> 01:24:13,553
<i>I think that it was that loneliness,</i>

943
01:24:13,637 --> 01:24:16,097
<i>that sense of being abandoned.</i>

944
01:24:16,181 --> 01:24:18,141
<i>It was there all the time.</i>

945
01:24:22,354 --> 01:24:25,565
<i>I didn't crawl because
I thought I would survive,</i>

946
01:24:25,649 --> 01:24:29,069
I think I... I wanted to...

947
01:24:29,152 --> 01:24:31,821
To be with somebody when I died.

948
01:24:58,556 --> 01:25:00,684
SIMON: It was probably
just a symbolic act

949
01:25:00,767 --> 01:25:02,936
to say goodbye to him, really,

950
01:25:03,019 --> 01:25:07,232
in my own mind,
you know, by doing that.

951
01:25:40,140 --> 01:25:42,976
(SLURPING)

952
01:26:02,829 --> 01:26:04,539
(COUGHING)

953
01:26:13,506 --> 01:26:16,259
<i>I drank litres and litres of it.</i>

954
01:26:17,594 --> 01:26:19,512
(COUGHING)

955
01:26:20,388 --> 01:26:23,016
<i>It was just like putting fuel in,</i>

956
01:26:23,099 --> 01:26:26,603
<i>I could feel myself
immediately getting stronger.</i>

957
01:26:35,612 --> 01:26:37,655
(GASPS)

958
01:26:39,324 --> 01:26:40,325
(GROANS)

959
01:27:14,692 --> 01:27:16,361
(GAGS)

960
01:27:16,694 --> 01:27:18,196
(SPITS)

961
01:27:19,280 --> 01:27:21,491
(GRUNTS)

962
01:27:34,504 --> 01:27:35,922
<i>I kept wetting myself</i>

963
01:27:36,005 --> 01:27:40,427
<i>and I can remember quite liking
the sensation, the warmth of it.</i>

964
01:27:46,516 --> 01:27:51,646
<i>It was just a slow, steady reduction.</i>

965
01:27:52,021 --> 01:27:55,525
<i>Not just physically,
physically it was very obvious,</i>

966
01:27:55,608 --> 01:27:57,986
<i>but you, everything, yourself</i>

967
01:27:58,069 --> 01:28:01,614
I felt left with nothing, really.

968
01:28:01,698 --> 01:28:03,324
I didn't care anymore.

969
01:28:05,326 --> 01:28:07,454
You didn't have any dignity,

970
01:28:07,537 --> 01:28:11,332
you didn't care whether you were
brave or weak or anything,

971
01:28:11,416 --> 01:28:15,462
you just became almost nothing,
it was strange.

972
01:28:25,388 --> 01:28:28,516
<i>I was still doing
these test 20-minute things,</i>

973
01:28:28,600 --> 01:28:30,768
<i>get here, get there.</i>

974
01:28:31,394 --> 01:28:33,563
<i>And then I saw these footprints.</i>

975
01:28:36,566 --> 01:28:39,861
<i>And I got convinced
that it was Simon and Richard.</i>

976
01:28:40,236 --> 01:28:43,364
<i>They were up above me</i>
<i>and they were just following</i> on.

977
01:28:43,448 --> 01:28:46,451
<i>And I carried on crawling down,</i>

978
01:28:47,160 --> 01:28:51,247
<i>utterly convinced that they were
wandering along behind me.</i>

979
01:28:52,832 --> 01:28:54,584
<i>And I can remember thinking,</i>

980
01:28:54,667 --> 01:28:57,504
<i>"That's really stupid,</i>
<i>they would come and help you.</i> "

981
01:28:58,421 --> 01:29:01,299
<i>And I think I persuaded myself
that they were just following on</i>

982
01:29:01,382 --> 01:29:03,301
<i>because they didn't want to embarrass me</i>

983
01:29:03,384 --> 01:29:05,553
<i>because I’d peed myself
and I was crying.</i>

984
01:29:08,264 --> 01:29:11,142
<i>I don't know how long it lasted,
maybe about an hour.</i>

985
01:29:13,978 --> 01:29:15,188
<i>I totally believed it,</i>

986
01:29:15,271 --> 01:29:18,191
<i>and then suddenly
it was like popping a bubble.</i>

987
01:29:21,611 --> 01:29:23,947
<i>And I realised that they weren't there</i>

988
01:29:24,614 --> 01:29:26,658
<i>and I felt utterly shattered.</i>

989
01:29:39,629 --> 01:29:43,132
JOE: <i>It was about 4:00</i>
<i>when I reached the lake.</i>

990
01:29:45,718 --> 01:29:48,304
<i>I knew that at the far end of it</i>

991
01:29:48,388 --> 01:29:51,224
<i>there was a moraine dam,
and from the top of that moraine dam,</i>

992
01:29:51,975 --> 01:29:54,394
<i>I would be able to look down
into the valley</i>

993
01:29:54,477 --> 01:29:55,770
<i>where the base camp was.</i>

994
01:29:55,853 --> 01:29:58,439
<i>In fact, I would be able
to see the tents.</i>

995
01:29:59,607 --> 01:30:02,986
<i>It was the first time I thought,
"I'm gonna make it.</i>

996
01:30:03,111 --> 01:30:07,198
<i>"I can make the distance,
I can actually make the distance."</i>

997
01:30:08,575 --> 01:30:10,368
Almost as soon as I thought it,

998
01:30:10,451 --> 01:30:12,745
the next thought
that popped into my head was,

999
01:30:12,829 --> 01:30:15,290
"Well, will there be anyone there?"

1000
01:30:16,833 --> 01:30:21,129
I thought, "Christ, this is
the fourth day since I saw Simon."

1001
01:30:22,380 --> 01:30:23,756
<i>And...</i>

1002
01:30:23,840 --> 01:30:25,341
<i>As I worked it out,</i>

1003
01:30:25,425 --> 01:30:28,928
<i>I thought, "Why on earth
would they be there?"</i>

1004
01:30:31,389 --> 01:30:32,974
<i>I knew it got dark at 6:00,</i>

1005
01:30:33,057 --> 01:30:35,018
<i>and I thought, "I've got to get there,</i> "

1006
01:30:35,101 --> 01:30:38,187
<i>and I was trying to do it
as fast as possible.</i>

1007
01:30:44,444 --> 01:30:49,282
<i>The rest of that afternoon
I was plagued by this dreadful feeling</i>

1008
01:30:49,365 --> 01:30:51,034
<i>that they would've gone.</i>

1009
01:30:54,537 --> 01:30:58,708
<i>I hadn't paid attention to what
was happening with the weather.</i>

1010
01:30:58,791 --> 01:31:02,295
<i>Between leaving at 4:00 and getting
to the top of the moraine at about 6:00,</i>

1011
01:31:02,378 --> 01:31:05,048
<i>the weather had changed.</i>

1012
01:31:05,381 --> 01:31:09,260
<i>So when I looked down into
the valley, it was just full of clouds.</i>

1013
01:31:11,054 --> 01:31:13,056
JOE: Simon!

1014
01:31:14,349 --> 01:31:16,142
<i>I listened intently,</i>

1015
01:31:16,225 --> 01:31:20,146
<i>hoping to hear a whistle or
an answer, a cry back or something.</i>

1016
01:31:20,688 --> 01:31:22,398
<i>I didn't hear anything at all.</i>

1017
01:31:27,153 --> 01:31:30,198
(WEEPING QUIETLY)

1018
01:31:30,823 --> 01:31:33,868
<i>I spent a long time sat there</i>

1019
01:31:33,951 --> 01:31:35,286
<i>crying, really, not sure what to do,</i>

1020
01:31:35,370 --> 01:31:38,289
<i>and I thought about
getting in my sleeping bag.</i>

1021
01:31:40,208 --> 01:31:43,628
<i>For some reason it just seemed
a bit of a pathetic way to end things,</i>

1022
01:31:43,711 --> 01:31:45,380
<i>just in a sleeping bag.</i>

1023
01:31:47,840 --> 01:31:50,176
<i>I thought, "Well, might as well
just keep going.</i>

1024
01:31:50,259 --> 01:31:53,304
<i>"You'll end it down there somewhere.</i> "

1025
01:31:54,055 --> 01:31:57,433
(MUTTERS INDISTINCTLY)

1026
01:31:57,558 --> 01:31:59,477
(LAUGHS)

1027
01:32:03,481 --> 01:32:06,359
JOE: <i>I don't know entirely what happened</i>

1028
01:32:06,442 --> 01:32:08,277
<i>for the rest of that night.</i>

1029
01:32:10,113 --> 01:32:11,155
Yes.

1030
01:32:11,364 --> 01:32:16,119
<i>I stopped looking at the watch,
and everything just started to go apart.</i>

1031
01:32:31,050 --> 01:32:33,636
(INDISTINCT WHISPERING)

1032
01:32:35,888 --> 01:32:38,933
<i>And I think I just got lost</i>

1033
01:32:39,016 --> 01:32:42,186
<i>and I didn't know
what I was doing any more.</i>

1034
01:32:45,106 --> 01:32:48,943
I don't remember thinking of anyone or

1035
01:32:49,819 --> 01:32:53,698
anybody I loved or anything like that.

1036
01:32:53,906 --> 01:32:55,366
(GROANS)

1037
01:32:56,909 --> 01:33:00,413
<i>I did have one time when I'd got
a song going through my head</i>

1038
01:33:00,496 --> 01:33:03,416
<i>and it was by a band called Boney M.</i>

1039
01:33:04,000 --> 01:33:06,961
<i>I don't really like Boney M's music.</i>

1040
01:33:08,129 --> 01:33:10,423
<i>♪ Brown girl in the ring</i>

1041
01:33:13,342 --> 01:33:15,052
<i>♪</i> In the ring...

1042
01:33:15,136 --> 01:33:17,263
<i>♪ She looks like a sugar in a plum</i>

1043
01:33:17,346 --> 01:33:18,723
<i>♪ Plum plum</i>

1044
01:33:18,806 --> 01:33:21,100
<i>♪ Show me your motion</i>

1045
01:33:21,726 --> 01:33:23,478
What is that?

1046
01:33:23,561 --> 01:33:25,563
(LAUGHS)

1047
01:33:28,608 --> 01:33:30,443
<i>♪ Show me your motion</i>

1048
01:33:32,153 --> 01:33:35,490
<i>♪ She looks like a sugar in a plum</i>

1049
01:33:35,865 --> 01:33:38,451
<i>♪ Brown girl in the ring</i>

1050
01:33:39,952 --> 01:33:43,122
<i>♪ There's a brown girl in the ring</i>

1051
01:33:45,541 --> 01:33:47,543
<i>♪ Brown girl in the ring</i>

1052
01:33:49,545 --> 01:33:52,965
<i>♪ She looks like a sugar in a plum</i>

1053
01:33:53,049 --> 01:33:54,300
<i>♪ Plum plum</i>

1054
01:33:54,884 --> 01:33:56,969
<i>♪ Show me your motion</i>

1055
01:33:59,889 --> 01:34:03,017
<i>♪ Come on, show me your motion</i>

1056
01:34:05,394 --> 01:34:07,688
<i>♪ Show me your motion</i>

1057
01:34:07,772 --> 01:34:11,859
And it just went on
and on and on for hours.

1058
01:34:11,943 --> 01:34:13,694
<i>♪ She looks like a sugar in a plum</i>

1059
01:34:13,778 --> 01:34:15,822
<i>I found it very upsetting</i>

1060
01:34:15,905 --> 01:34:17,615
<i>because I wanted to try
and get it out of my head</i>

1061
01:34:17,698 --> 01:34:19,867
<i>and I wanted to think of other things.</i>

1062
01:34:19,951 --> 01:34:21,577
<i>♪ There's a brown girl in the ring</i>

1063
01:34:21,661 --> 01:34:24,205
(DISTORTED SONG CONTINUES)

1064
01:34:27,875 --> 01:34:29,836
I can remember thinking,

1065
01:34:30,962 --> 01:34:33,172
" Bloody hell,
I'm going to die to Boney M."

1066
01:34:33,256 --> 01:34:34,882
(GRUNTS)

1067
01:34:34,966 --> 01:34:36,926
<i>♪ Show me your motion</i>

1068
01:34:38,928 --> 01:34:42,014
<i>♪ Come on, show me your motion ♪</i>

1069
01:34:47,979 --> 01:34:49,355
<i>I remember sometimes,</i>

1070
01:34:49,438 --> 01:34:52,400
<i>not waking up,
I think I was awake all the time,</i>

1071
01:34:52,483 --> 01:34:55,111
<i>but coming</i> to. <i>It was like waking up,</i>

1072
01:34:55,194 --> 01:34:58,573
<i>and finding myself sitting there.</i>

1073
01:34:58,823 --> 01:35:00,867
<i>I didn't know where I was.</i>

1074
01:35:02,243 --> 01:35:05,746
<i>It was pitch black and snowing
and I'd think I was back on the glacier</i>

1075
01:35:05,830 --> 01:35:09,166
<i>or in a pub car park
and I'd been beaten up again.</i>

1076
01:35:09,250 --> 01:35:11,294
<i>Then I’d just drift off again.</i>

1077
01:35:17,174 --> 01:35:19,051
(GRUNTS)

1078
01:35:24,807 --> 01:35:26,976
<i>I remember smelling something.</i>

1079
01:35:27,852 --> 01:35:28,978
(COUGHS)

1080
01:35:29,145 --> 01:35:32,106
<i>It was a really strong smell.</i>

1081
01:35:32,189 --> 01:35:36,527
<i>It acted like a smelling salt,
sort of cut through all this delirium.</i>

1082
01:35:40,031 --> 01:35:42,742
<i>And I couldn't understand what it meant.</i>

1083
01:35:42,825 --> 01:35:45,745
<i>It took me ages to try
and work out what it meant.</i>

1084
01:35:46,412 --> 01:35:48,664
<i>I thought it was me.</i>

1085
01:35:49,832 --> 01:35:52,084
Very slowly I worked it out.

1086
01:35:52,168 --> 01:35:57,256
I thought, "I've crawled through
the latrine area of our campsite."

1087
01:35:58,758 --> 01:36:02,178
<i>I realised then
that I was close to the tents.</i>

1088
01:36:08,851 --> 01:36:11,354
Simon!

1089
01:36:13,189 --> 01:36:16,150
<i>As I was shouting it,
I thought, "This is it.</i>

1090
01:36:16,233 --> 01:36:20,237
<i>"This is as far as this game goes.</i> "

1091
01:36:22,657 --> 01:36:25,368
<i>"I'm not capable of going any further.</i> "

1092
01:36:29,872 --> 01:36:31,582
Simon!

1093
01:36:31,666 --> 01:36:34,585
<i>I made the mistake of
having a little bit of hope</i>

1094
01:36:34,669 --> 01:36:36,462
<i>that they'd still be there.</i>

1095
01:36:37,505 --> 01:36:41,133
<i>When I shouted and they weren't there,</i>

1096
01:36:41,217 --> 01:36:43,052
<i>I sort of knew I was dead then.</i>

1097
01:36:43,219 --> 01:36:45,054
(SOBBING)

1098
01:36:58,234 --> 01:37:01,570
That moment when
no one answered the call...

1099
01:37:01,988 --> 01:37:03,322
Simon.

1100
01:37:09,870 --> 01:37:11,622
It was...

1101
01:37:12,748 --> 01:37:15,835
It was... I lost something.

1102
01:37:20,297 --> 01:37:22,550
<i>I lost me.</i>

1103
01:37:27,013 --> 01:37:29,432
I woke up, not knowing why,

1104
01:37:30,391 --> 01:37:33,728
and was aware of
this strange atmosphere.

1105
01:37:33,811 --> 01:37:37,314
I could hear the wind howling
outside the tent

1106
01:37:37,398 --> 01:37:41,819
and started hearing something.

1107
01:37:44,447 --> 01:37:46,615
<i>It did slowly dawn on me</i>

1108
01:37:46,699 --> 01:37:49,368
<i>that, really, the only thing it could be</i>

1109
01:37:49,452 --> 01:37:52,246
<i>would be Joe outside, shouting.</i>

1110
01:37:53,205 --> 01:37:55,875
<i>But that was completely impossible</i>

1111
01:37:55,958 --> 01:37:57,710
<i>because he was dead</i>

1112
01:37:57,793 --> 01:38:00,588
<i>and he'd died three or four days ago.</i>

1113
01:38:02,131 --> 01:38:04,258
And then heard it again,

1114
01:38:04,341 --> 01:38:06,469
much sharper.

1115
01:38:06,969 --> 01:38:11,140
<i>And it really sounded like</i>
<i>somebody shouting, "Simon</i> ".

1116
01:38:15,978 --> 01:38:17,855
I kind of got in a panic

1117
01:38:17,938 --> 01:38:21,233
that first it couldn't be
Joe because Joe's dead,

1118
01:38:22,234 --> 01:38:25,780
and then, if he is out there,

1119
01:38:25,863 --> 01:38:30,034
it's gonna be this horrible thing,
it can't be a human being

1120
01:38:30,117 --> 01:38:34,580
because no human being
can possibly go through that

1121
01:38:34,663 --> 01:38:36,415
and be outside the tent.

1122
01:38:41,420 --> 01:38:45,841
I was just laying there,
really not knowing what to do.

1123
01:38:46,383 --> 01:38:48,803
And then Simon woke up.

1124
01:38:48,886 --> 01:38:53,682
"Simon," you know, it was quite
clearly a shout of my name.

1125
01:38:53,766 --> 01:38:57,019
<i>I knew it was Joe, actually.
I knew immediately.</i>

1126
01:38:59,355 --> 01:39:06,028
JOE: <i>I was looking around and</i>
<i>then I saw this thing, floating.</i>

1127
01:39:07,905 --> 01:39:10,491
of course, Simon exploded into action.

1128
01:39:14,370 --> 01:39:16,539
JOE: <i>Suddenly, I heard voices.</i>

1129
01:39:17,331 --> 01:39:19,041
SIMON: Joe?

1130
01:39:19,208 --> 01:39:20,543
Is that you?

1131
01:39:20,626 --> 01:39:22,837
RICHARD: <i>I was holding back,</i>

1132
01:39:22,920 --> 01:39:26,966
<i>because I didn't really feel
it was a human being out there.</i>

1133
01:39:31,220 --> 01:39:32,721
JOE: Simon.

1134
01:39:41,730 --> 01:39:45,317
We went back up the stream bed
from where these cries had come,

1135
01:39:45,401 --> 01:39:49,655
about maybe 200-300 yards
outside the camp

1136
01:39:49,738 --> 01:39:50,906
and there was Joe.

1137
01:39:54,702 --> 01:39:56,704
- Simon.
-oh, fuck. oh, fuck.

1138
01:39:57,121 --> 01:40:01,417
I couldn't completely believe it
until I actually saw him.

1139
01:40:01,500 --> 01:40:04,378
But then it was still a little
difficult to believe that

1140
01:40:04,461 --> 01:40:08,090
because of the eerie night
and the fact of the state he was in.

1141
01:40:08,215 --> 01:40:09,175
Simon.

1142
01:40:09,258 --> 01:40:11,302
SIMON: <i>Absolutely awful state.</i>

1143
01:40:11,385 --> 01:40:15,139
<i>It was almost like
he was a ghostlike figure.</i>

1144
01:40:15,222 --> 01:40:19,185
It was like I had to pinch myself almost

1145
01:40:19,268 --> 01:40:21,770
to believe this was true,

1146
01:40:21,854 --> 01:40:24,231
that this was really happening.

1147
01:40:24,690 --> 01:40:26,525
- Help me.
-oh, fuck, Joe.

1148
01:40:26,609 --> 01:40:30,696
Shh. You okay? Shh, shh. oh, fuck.

1149
01:40:30,779 --> 01:40:32,948
Simon was...

1150
01:40:33,908 --> 01:40:36,035
He was swearing a lot.

1151
01:40:36,118 --> 01:40:37,453
Swearing a lot.

1152
01:40:37,620 --> 01:40:39,288
Fucking hell.

1153
01:40:39,496 --> 01:40:41,373
Richard! Lift him!

1154
01:40:41,457 --> 01:40:44,376
Richard, hold him,
you stupid bastard! Lift him!

1155
01:40:44,460 --> 01:40:46,253
Okay, Joe. Shh.

1156
01:40:46,337 --> 01:40:50,007
JOE: <i>I remember Simon</i>
<i>grabbing my shoulders</i>

1157
01:40:50,758 --> 01:40:52,635
<i>and holding me.</i>

1158
01:40:52,718 --> 01:40:54,678
SIMON: Lift his legs.

1159
01:40:55,054 --> 01:40:56,513
JOE: <i>I remember that.</i>

1160
01:40:57,806 --> 01:40:59,391
<i>That feeling of being held.</i>

1161
01:40:59,475 --> 01:41:03,979
okay, okay. Shh, I got you.
Shush, you're safe.

1162
01:41:25,167 --> 01:41:27,086
He thanked me

1163
01:41:28,337 --> 01:41:32,132
for trying to get him down the mountain,

1164
01:41:32,216 --> 01:41:35,010
for all that I'd done up to the point

1165
01:41:36,845 --> 01:41:41,433
where I'd cut the rope,
you know, and he said...

1166
01:41:41,517 --> 01:41:44,770
And he said to me,
"I'd have done the same."

1167
01:41:47,189 --> 01:41:50,651
<i>Those were the first words
he uttered to me.</i>

1168
01:41:58,867 --> 01:42:01,203
(QUIET SOBBING)

1169
01:42:01,787 --> 01:42:04,331
RICHARD: <i>And I remember,</i>
<i>before we'd done anything to him,</i>

1170
01:42:04,415 --> 01:42:08,043
<i>before we'd even closed the door,
he said, "Where are my trousers?"</i>

1171
01:42:08,544 --> 01:42:11,630
We had to explain
that we'd burnt his trousers,

1172
01:42:11,714 --> 01:42:14,675
which made him quite angry.

1173
01:42:14,758 --> 01:42:18,929
I think that kind of brought me
back into life to some extent,

1174
01:42:19,013 --> 01:42:22,016
realising it was
the same old Joe back again.


