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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,566 --> 00:00:18,566 Subtitles by explosiveskull 2 00:01:23,207 --> 00:01:27,612 Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold. 3 00:01:31,481 --> 00:01:34,416 Here is what I don't understand. 4 00:01:34,418 --> 00:01:38,623 One little mistake, one little slip, and you fall and die. 5 00:01:39,790 --> 00:01:43,425 Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well... 6 00:01:43,427 --> 00:01:46,064 - Yeah. - Yeah. 7 00:01:46,897 --> 00:01:50,601 And I feel like anybody could conceivably die on any given day. 8 00:01:51,603 --> 00:01:56,207 Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present. 9 00:01:58,541 --> 00:02:02,314 Does it feel different to be up there without a rope? 10 00:02:02,981 --> 00:02:05,413 When you're climbing without a rope, it's obviously like 11 00:02:05,415 --> 00:02:08,117 much higher consequence, much, much higher level of focus. 12 00:02:08,119 --> 00:02:11,356 You know, it's a whole different experience. 13 00:02:12,523 --> 00:02:15,356 So it's not like I'm just pushing and pushing and pushing 14 00:02:15,358 --> 00:02:17,259 until something terrible happens. 15 00:02:17,261 --> 00:02:20,165 I don't look at it, like, with that perspective. 16 00:02:21,131 --> 00:02:24,332 But maybe that's why it's dangerous for me. 17 00:02:24,334 --> 00:02:28,472 Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff. 18 00:02:45,221 --> 00:02:47,424 Okay. 19 00:02:58,401 --> 00:03:00,802 I like to differentiate between risk and consequence. 20 00:03:00,804 --> 00:03:03,838 You know, when I'm doing these hard free solos I like to think that the risk, 21 00:03:03,840 --> 00:03:05,606 you know, the chance of me falling off is 22 00:03:05,608 --> 00:03:07,843 quite low even though the consequence is extremely high. 23 00:03:07,845 --> 00:03:10,379 And that's kind of like one of the appeals of free soloing, you know, 24 00:03:10,381 --> 00:03:14,085 to take something that seems difficult and dangerous and make it feel safe. 25 00:03:14,285 --> 00:03:18,353 So, do you think that, uh, being a rock climber has been a positive or negative 26 00:03:18,355 --> 00:03:20,154 for your dating life? 27 00:03:20,156 --> 00:03:21,522 My dating life? 28 00:03:21,524 --> 00:03:22,658 Yeah. 29 00:03:22,660 --> 00:03:25,527 I think, uh, I think overall it's been a negative. 30 00:03:25,529 --> 00:03:28,532 Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car. 31 00:03:35,138 --> 00:03:38,275 Let's talk through some of the climbing adventures you've had. 32 00:03:38,608 --> 00:03:41,343 The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress. 33 00:03:41,345 --> 00:03:44,445 When I did it, it was like, "Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking, 34 00:03:44,447 --> 00:03:46,481 kind of extreme. 35 00:03:46,483 --> 00:03:49,787 But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure. 36 00:03:50,020 --> 00:03:53,321 Well, that wasn't where you stopped, because that next challenge then 37 00:03:53,323 --> 00:03:55,526 was free soloing Half Dome. 38 00:03:56,293 --> 00:03:59,895 Half Dome was a huge step for me because it was twice as big as anything 39 00:03:59,897 --> 00:04:02,132 I'd ever soloed. 40 00:04:03,032 --> 00:04:06,568 Free soloing is so dangerous that less than 1% of people 41 00:04:06,570 --> 00:04:08,572 who climb attempt it. 42 00:04:09,139 --> 00:04:13,611 Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs, but none were tougher than this one. 43 00:04:16,247 --> 00:04:19,487 I got quite scared in some places, and then you start to panic a little bit. 44 00:04:19,784 --> 00:04:22,820 And then you have to, like, reel it all back in. 45 00:04:25,156 --> 00:04:28,226 What is next in free solo climbing? 46 00:04:28,459 --> 00:04:30,692 Well, I don't know, I mean, I've thought about El Cap, like, 47 00:04:30,694 --> 00:04:32,693 for years and every year I look at it and I'm like, 48 00:04:32,695 --> 00:04:34,296 "That's really scary." 49 00:04:34,298 --> 00:04:37,498 Um, well, I've never even wanted to really, or I've always wanted to but then 50 00:04:37,500 --> 00:04:40,304 I've always been like, "That's too scary." 51 00:04:43,940 --> 00:04:47,779 I'm aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth. 52 00:04:48,613 --> 00:04:52,313 I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid and my dad would always have a little 53 00:04:52,315 --> 00:04:55,183 cooler in the back of the car, and have our cookies in the cold milk, 54 00:04:55,185 --> 00:04:58,520 and we'd sit on these slabs above Tunnel View, which is, like, 55 00:04:58,522 --> 00:05:01,358 the most epic view of Yosemite. 56 00:05:01,591 --> 00:05:05,729 As soon as you see El Cap it's like, "Oh, there it is, pretty exciting." 57 00:05:08,632 --> 00:05:12,904 El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth. 58 00:05:55,512 --> 00:05:58,246 Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van. 59 00:05:58,248 --> 00:06:00,715 I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now because I've lived 60 00:06:00,717 --> 00:06:03,284 in it for nine years. 61 00:06:03,286 --> 00:06:06,621 My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan. 62 00:06:06,623 --> 00:06:09,924 My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school. 63 00:06:09,926 --> 00:06:12,426 There was some life insurance. 64 00:06:12,428 --> 00:06:15,363 I had just enough to dirt bag. 65 00:06:15,365 --> 00:06:19,034 Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents 66 00:06:19,036 --> 00:06:21,973 on dinner every night. 67 00:06:22,173 --> 00:06:25,306 Living in a van is great but, you know, at a certain point it'd be nice to have a 68 00:06:25,308 --> 00:06:28,845 bathroom and have, like, a shower at least. 69 00:06:35,652 --> 00:06:37,385 So you have a girlfriend now, I heard. 70 00:06:37,387 --> 00:06:39,654 - Hmm, trending towards one. - Trending towards? 71 00:06:39,656 --> 00:06:44,428 Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive about, like, you know, you have to do you. 72 00:06:44,995 --> 00:06:46,428 Yeah we'll, we'll see. 73 00:06:46,430 --> 00:06:50,032 But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life, 74 00:06:50,034 --> 00:06:52,567 you know, in terms of, like, big climbing, 75 00:06:52,569 --> 00:06:56,003 lifetime achievement deals, where you're just like, well, 76 00:06:56,005 --> 00:06:59,808 like I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady. 77 00:06:59,810 --> 00:07:02,012 At least, you know, so far. 78 00:07:04,682 --> 00:07:07,015 How many times have you climbed El Cap? 79 00:07:07,017 --> 00:07:08,517 Probably like 40 something maybe. 80 00:07:08,519 --> 00:07:13,654 - You ever free solo? -No and nobody has. - Why haven't you done it yet? 81 00:07:13,656 --> 00:07:16,995 Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know, think about it, it's freaking scary. 82 00:07:17,928 --> 00:07:22,029 I don't know, so I mean I've thought about this since 2009, like, each year since 2009, 83 00:07:22,031 --> 00:07:24,599 I've been like, "This is the year," and each year I climb it and I'm like, 84 00:07:24,601 --> 00:07:27,368 "This isn't the year, like, this is fucked," you know. 85 00:07:27,370 --> 00:07:29,871 So I'm like, "Uh." But the thing is I'll never be content, 86 00:07:29,873 --> 00:07:31,438 unless I at least put in the effort. 87 00:07:31,440 --> 00:07:34,075 Because, like, if I do all the work and I'm still like, "This is messed up," 88 00:07:34,077 --> 00:07:37,678 then maybe it's just not for me, maybe its future generation, you know. 89 00:07:37,680 --> 00:07:40,817 Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for. 90 00:07:51,027 --> 00:07:54,831 When I thought about El Cap years ago, there were question marks all over the walls. 91 00:07:55,632 --> 00:07:57,965 It's like I don't know about this pitch, I don't know about that pitch, 92 00:07:57,967 --> 00:08:00,601 like I don't know about this particular slab, there are all these things that 93 00:08:00,603 --> 00:08:03,805 seem pretty crazy to me. 94 00:08:03,807 --> 00:08:09,745 If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap, then I need a good map of what that will 95 00:08:09,747 --> 00:08:14,849 take, you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are, where they are, 96 00:08:14,851 --> 00:08:17,755 what they will entail. 97 00:08:18,255 --> 00:08:21,659 If I'm going to do it, Free Rider seems like the best route. 98 00:08:26,829 --> 00:08:28,063 Oh, hi. 99 00:08:28,065 --> 00:08:29,931 What's up, dude? 100 00:08:29,933 --> 00:08:31,899 Oh, hey. 101 00:08:31,901 --> 00:08:34,839 Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it straight onto my harness. 102 00:08:35,406 --> 00:08:37,039 So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I? 103 00:08:37,041 --> 00:08:41,175 I feel like we should do what we did before which would be you lead the, yeah, 104 00:08:41,177 --> 00:08:43,477 you lead the Freeblast. 105 00:08:43,479 --> 00:08:45,579 So, basically I'll just try to take it, like, as far as I can. 106 00:08:45,581 --> 00:08:47,584 Yeah. 107 00:08:52,156 --> 00:08:54,956 So Tommy just got here and they're going up Freerider. 108 00:08:54,958 --> 00:08:56,357 Okay. 109 00:08:56,359 --> 00:08:59,593 I'm just gonna try to shoot this pitch and the traverse pitch and then 110 00:08:59,595 --> 00:09:01,698 I'm gonna jug out like a maniac. 111 00:09:02,065 --> 00:09:03,063 Okay. 112 00:09:03,065 --> 00:09:04,899 Do we have enough line up there to do all this? 113 00:09:04,901 --> 00:09:07,137 - Yeah. - Okay. 114 00:09:15,978 --> 00:09:18,513 The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell 115 00:09:18,515 --> 00:09:21,419 is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it. 116 00:09:21,651 --> 00:09:24,186 To see what feels scary and what doesn't. 117 00:09:24,188 --> 00:09:26,221 Oh, God. 118 00:09:26,223 --> 00:09:29,824 Look at those fixed ropes the first climb. 119 00:09:32,528 --> 00:09:35,797 Tommy's been a hero of mine since I was a kid. 120 00:09:35,799 --> 00:09:38,098 I didn't technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid, 121 00:09:38,100 --> 00:09:41,140 but it was like the same deal, you know, where I was like, "Tommy's the man." 122 00:09:43,940 --> 00:09:47,478 Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap. 123 00:09:48,177 --> 00:09:51,612 Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall. 124 00:09:51,614 --> 00:09:54,915 And most of the routes that he's put up on El Cap haven't been repeated because they're, 125 00:09:54,917 --> 00:09:57,587 they're basically too hard. 126 00:09:58,522 --> 00:10:01,622 And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall which was his 127 00:10:01,624 --> 00:10:03,757 multi-year project. 128 00:10:03,759 --> 00:10:06,930 I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world. 129 00:10:17,140 --> 00:10:19,677 I've been obsessed with El Cap for years. 130 00:10:21,711 --> 00:10:25,682 El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge. 131 00:10:27,517 --> 00:10:30,651 It's 3,200 feet of sheer granite. 132 00:10:30,653 --> 00:10:32,821 Looking at it, it doesn't seem right, it doesn't seem like you 133 00:10:32,823 --> 00:10:36,227 should be able to climb it. 134 00:10:37,294 --> 00:10:39,895 I understand why Alex is obsessed. 135 00:10:39,897 --> 00:10:43,033 El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers. 136 00:10:43,267 --> 00:10:48,303 I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days 137 00:10:48,305 --> 00:10:51,575 over 16 months because they couldn't do it continuously. 138 00:10:56,613 --> 00:11:00,050 They had to drill bolts into the granite and pull themselves up. 139 00:11:00,251 --> 00:11:04,622 And then ever since then, it's been the center of the rock climbing universe. 140 00:11:09,593 --> 00:11:13,097 I've spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope. 141 00:11:14,297 --> 00:11:16,933 There's no margin for error. 142 00:11:17,133 --> 00:11:23,240 Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement, that if you don't get that 143 00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:26,975 gold medal you're gonna die. 144 00:11:26,977 --> 00:11:30,278 That's pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like. 145 00:11:30,280 --> 00:11:33,818 You have to do it perfectly. 146 00:11:37,353 --> 00:11:41,055 Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios, 147 00:11:41,057 --> 00:11:44,160 so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position, 148 00:11:45,228 --> 00:11:48,730 and more than anything just thinking about what it would feel like to, 149 00:11:48,732 --> 00:11:51,903 to be in that position without a rope. 150 00:11:53,003 --> 00:11:55,736 There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope. 151 00:11:55,738 --> 00:11:57,072 Oh, God. 152 00:11:57,074 --> 00:11:59,274 But then the idea of taking the rope away, you're just like, 153 00:11:59,276 --> 00:12:01,875 "I don't know if I'd wanna trust that little foothold. Oh, my God, 154 00:12:01,877 --> 00:12:06,047 my feet hurt so bad and I'm so pumped and my hand hurts. 155 00:12:06,049 --> 00:12:07,716 I just feel pooped. 156 00:12:07,718 --> 00:12:10,320 We're kind of getting worked. 157 00:12:11,254 --> 00:12:14,255 When you've been thinking about something for years, that's a long time to be, 158 00:12:14,257 --> 00:12:18,195 like, sort of considering an idea without, like, really talking to anybody about it. 159 00:12:18,627 --> 00:12:21,866 Especially someone like Tommy. 160 00:12:22,432 --> 00:12:25,199 When I was climbing, like, up the endurance corner and across the traverse, 161 00:12:25,201 --> 00:12:28,636 I was just looking down thinking about, I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary." 162 00:12:28,638 --> 00:12:29,771 I don't know. 163 00:12:29,773 --> 00:12:31,372 That part is just so exposed and it's pretty. 164 00:12:31,374 --> 00:12:33,408 See, that part again is like, at least you have holds though, you know. 165 00:12:33,410 --> 00:12:34,742 Yeah. 166 00:12:34,744 --> 00:12:37,946 The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it's like, 167 00:12:37,948 --> 00:12:40,381 your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know. 168 00:12:40,383 --> 00:12:43,318 Soloing is like such a weird personal activity. 169 00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:45,252 You never talk about soloing projects. 170 00:12:45,254 --> 00:12:48,923 I mean, I've done all my soloing without telling anybody, 171 00:12:48,925 --> 00:12:53,028 because I don't want any extra pressure. 172 00:12:53,030 --> 00:12:56,297 The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I get interview questions about it all the 173 00:12:56,299 --> 00:12:58,033 time, like, "Oh, would you like to do that?" 174 00:12:58,035 --> 00:12:59,134 And I've always been like, 175 00:12:59,136 --> 00:13:01,236 "No, well maybe, we'll see. You know, who knows?" 176 00:13:01,238 --> 00:13:04,275 But like in the back of your mind you're like, "Yes, for sure." 177 00:13:13,182 --> 00:13:16,183 I used to be like a super picky eater. 178 00:13:16,185 --> 00:13:21,626 When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had 179 00:13:22,225 --> 00:13:25,193 to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like, systematically introduced 180 00:13:25,195 --> 00:13:29,367 myself to vegetables, like one at a time, which worked pretty well, 181 00:13:30,733 --> 00:13:32,936 now I pretty much eat anything. 182 00:13:37,907 --> 00:13:41,076 I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um, 183 00:13:41,078 --> 00:13:43,178 mostly for environmental reasons. 184 00:13:43,180 --> 00:13:46,751 Then once I stopped I also kind of got into the ethics of it a little bit more. 185 00:13:51,287 --> 00:13:54,121 We'll just see how this comes out. 186 00:13:54,123 --> 00:13:56,725 Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who probably think that this is, like, terrible. 187 00:13:56,727 --> 00:14:00,231 I'm eating, like, canned chili and eggs. 188 00:14:02,998 --> 00:14:05,332 Growing up, I mean, I didn't like eating weird foods, 189 00:14:05,334 --> 00:14:09,069 I didn't like bugs, you know, I was just like a total tweeker. 190 00:14:09,071 --> 00:14:11,941 I guess I was quite a shy child. 191 00:14:12,843 --> 00:14:14,943 Bit of a dark soul, I think. 192 00:14:14,945 --> 00:14:17,681 Maybe melancholic is the word. 193 00:14:18,015 --> 00:14:22,817 I remember really liking to play with my Legos and play computer games and, 194 00:14:22,819 --> 00:14:25,819 uh, and then obviously once I started rock climbing I was going to the 195 00:14:25,821 --> 00:14:27,755 climbing gym all the time. 196 00:14:27,757 --> 00:14:31,326 But I didn't really have a whole lot of hobbies or interests. 197 00:14:31,328 --> 00:14:33,995 I definitely wasn't cool, you know. 198 00:14:33,997 --> 00:14:36,765 I grew up in Sacramento and the high school I went to, I was, uh, 199 00:14:36,767 --> 00:14:39,867 in an international baccalaureate program, so we were all sort of 200 00:14:39,869 --> 00:14:42,069 the intellectual kids. 201 00:14:42,071 --> 00:14:45,372 So, in a way it was fine to be sort of a dorky loner cause, you know, 202 00:14:45,374 --> 00:14:48,311 the whole program was focused around that. 203 00:14:49,112 --> 00:14:52,313 There was definitely a time when I started climbing outside more and I was just 204 00:14:52,315 --> 00:14:54,414 starting to road trip and go to campgrounds, 205 00:14:54,416 --> 00:14:57,018 but I was too afraid to talk to strangers. 206 00:14:57,020 --> 00:15:00,154 So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or just a lot of climbing by myself just 207 00:15:00,156 --> 00:15:03,493 because I didn't know anybody and I didn't wanna talk to anybody. 208 00:15:04,895 --> 00:15:07,364 It's freaking good, I've outdone myself. 209 00:15:10,934 --> 00:15:13,738 Spicy chili really adds something. 210 00:15:20,176 --> 00:15:23,044 As a kid I just love climbing trees and climbing buildings and, like, 211 00:15:23,046 --> 00:15:24,846 playing on things. 212 00:15:24,848 --> 00:15:27,627 And when I was going to school here I was also climbing on all the roofs and stuff here. 213 00:15:27,651 --> 00:15:29,818 Uh, and, uh, yeah. 214 00:15:29,820 --> 00:15:32,153 It's actually kind of intimidating talking to groups of kids. 215 00:15:32,155 --> 00:15:35,088 Like, when I was in high school I was mortified of standing in 216 00:15:35,090 --> 00:15:36,557 front of the class. 217 00:15:36,559 --> 00:15:38,458 But, like, you kind of get through it and, like, eventually you feel 218 00:15:38,460 --> 00:15:39,894 more and more comfortable. 219 00:15:39,896 --> 00:15:41,162 I don't know. 220 00:15:41,164 --> 00:15:42,963 - There's a question. - Um, yeah. 221 00:15:42,965 --> 00:15:45,199 How do you feel about being famous, just for, like, 222 00:15:45,201 --> 00:15:46,802 turning your hobby into your career? 223 00:15:46,804 --> 00:15:49,938 I mean, I think it's the best thing in life to be able to take the one thing 224 00:15:49,940 --> 00:15:53,073 you love most and have it, like, work out that you can make a living that way. 225 00:15:53,075 --> 00:15:55,309 You know, so it's nice that I now get paid to do that, yeah. 226 00:15:55,311 --> 00:15:57,514 How much money do you have? 227 00:16:00,050 --> 00:16:03,286 I've got, I've got, I've got probably like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know. 228 00:16:03,987 --> 00:16:06,087 Um, but no, like, a, a fair amount. 229 00:16:06,089 --> 00:16:11,292 Um, like, like, you know, say, like, a moderately successful dentist 230 00:16:11,294 --> 00:16:13,464 or something, probably. 231 00:16:13,729 --> 00:16:15,362 Mr. K? 232 00:16:15,364 --> 00:16:18,098 Alex, could you talk about your foundation a bit and what you're doing? 233 00:16:18,100 --> 00:16:21,504 Yeah, so, I started a non-profit, um, I guess maybe four years ago. 234 00:16:21,872 --> 00:16:25,192 Let's watch this piece of video so you're gonna get a little taste of that. 235 00:16:26,877 --> 00:16:30,410 Climbing has allowed me to travel all over the world, which has really opened my 236 00:16:30,412 --> 00:16:32,582 eyes to how the rest of the world lives. 237 00:16:33,282 --> 00:16:36,049 I mean, I see all these people, I mean they're like a billion people on Earth 238 00:16:36,051 --> 00:16:37,418 without access to power. 239 00:16:37,420 --> 00:16:39,553 And so I started my foundation sort of as an attempt to, like, 240 00:16:39,555 --> 00:16:41,155 balance the cosmic scales. 241 00:16:41,157 --> 00:16:45,058 So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a third of my income every year through the 242 00:16:45,060 --> 00:16:47,061 foundation to, like, environmental non-profits. 243 00:16:47,063 --> 00:16:49,230 I mean, so, like off-grid solar projects, things like that, like, 244 00:16:49,232 --> 00:16:52,502 things that lift people out of poverty, but also help the Earth. 245 00:17:07,517 --> 00:17:09,249 Ah, you get out. 246 00:17:09,251 --> 00:17:11,855 - Oh, hi. - Hi. 247 00:17:15,557 --> 00:17:18,094 I met Sanni, book touring in Seattle. 248 00:17:18,661 --> 00:17:22,132 And then we just have been hanging out ever since. 249 00:17:22,332 --> 00:17:25,300 I think, I think this is our very first date in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing, 250 00:17:25,302 --> 00:17:27,401 like, a very easy multi-pitch together. 251 00:17:27,403 --> 00:17:30,438 Um, you know I just took her up this big tall route because then, 252 00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:32,674 I kind of knew it would blow her mind. 253 00:17:32,676 --> 00:17:33,675 Is she a climber? 254 00:17:33,677 --> 00:17:36,945 Um, Sanni's like a little bit of a climber. 255 00:17:36,947 --> 00:17:41,252 She, she's just starting but I'd hardly characterize her as a climber. 256 00:17:42,553 --> 00:17:45,719 You see straight in front of us, there's like an depression that looks like a heart. 257 00:17:45,721 --> 00:17:46,655 Yeah. 258 00:17:46,657 --> 00:17:49,157 To the left of that, that's Freerider. 259 00:17:49,159 --> 00:17:51,692 This is like the whole valley, like, we're driving in this highway. 260 00:17:51,694 --> 00:17:52,995 Uh-hmm. 261 00:17:52,997 --> 00:17:54,129 And then this is, like, the valley loop from here to here, 262 00:17:54,131 --> 00:17:56,464 the main rocks are all, like, between here and here. 263 00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:59,603 Okay, oh, maybe I should read this. 264 00:18:00,437 --> 00:18:02,573 No. 265 00:18:02,805 --> 00:18:06,209 Alex was giving a talk in Seattle, in December last year. 266 00:18:06,442 --> 00:18:09,343 I didn't know anything about him and I showed up. 267 00:18:09,345 --> 00:18:11,446 Wait, you're wearing the same shirt in half these photos. 268 00:18:11,448 --> 00:18:12,612 I know. 269 00:18:12,614 --> 00:18:14,114 Oh, Alex. 270 00:18:14,116 --> 00:18:16,383 Well, because I don't have anybody to help me with my wardrobe. 271 00:18:16,385 --> 00:18:20,623 Oh and then, when I got my book signed, I gave him my number. 272 00:18:24,160 --> 00:18:27,430 Which was sort of a joke with a friend but then evolved. 273 00:18:28,265 --> 00:18:33,167 I just thought he was really cute but also brutally honest, 274 00:18:33,169 --> 00:18:35,335 but I'm really drawn to that. 275 00:18:35,337 --> 00:18:37,705 Whoa, look how precariously balanced it is. 276 00:18:37,707 --> 00:18:40,207 But he's also just a funny guy, he's weird. 277 00:18:40,209 --> 00:18:43,279 You know, a weird dude, and I find it interesting. 278 00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:45,646 Oh, we tree pose on the tree? 279 00:18:45,648 --> 00:18:46,846 It's not wobbling. 280 00:18:46,848 --> 00:18:49,417 It's totally wobbling, what are you talking about. 281 00:18:49,419 --> 00:18:51,552 Just for you. 282 00:18:51,554 --> 00:18:54,557 - I'm waiting. ALEX: Oh. - Okay. 283 00:18:59,228 --> 00:19:00,695 When you start getting eaten by mosquitoes, 284 00:19:00,697 --> 00:19:02,397 feel free to just start climbing. 285 00:19:02,399 --> 00:19:04,465 Just keep the Grigri on. 286 00:19:04,467 --> 00:19:06,234 I'll wait. 287 00:19:06,236 --> 00:19:08,738 Okay, whatever you're comfy with. 288 00:19:11,274 --> 00:19:13,373 Having the girlfriend in the van is awesome. 289 00:19:13,375 --> 00:19:17,245 I mean, she's cute and small and, like, livens the place up a bit, 290 00:19:17,247 --> 00:19:19,580 doesn't take up too much room. 291 00:19:19,582 --> 00:19:23,187 I mean, it's, pretty much makes life better in every way. 292 00:19:25,321 --> 00:19:28,225 Alex, you got me tight? 293 00:19:30,427 --> 00:19:33,230 This is nerve-racking. 294 00:19:40,836 --> 00:19:46,541 When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him come down the final section and the rope 295 00:19:46,543 --> 00:19:48,409 went right through the Grigri, right through my hands, 296 00:19:48,411 --> 00:19:51,446 and right through the Grigri and he dropped to the ground. 297 00:19:51,448 --> 00:19:53,784 It was my fault that I didn't watch the end of the rope. 298 00:19:54,718 --> 00:19:58,287 It was just like, "Oh, my gosh, what have I done?" 299 00:19:59,889 --> 00:20:02,723 The x-ray didn't show much, but then they took the CAT scan and then they 300 00:20:02,725 --> 00:20:04,659 said it was, like, two compression fractures and. 301 00:20:04,661 --> 00:20:06,794 But they only focused on they didn't focus on the lower. 302 00:20:06,796 --> 00:20:10,734 Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her. 303 00:20:10,933 --> 00:20:15,102 I was like, "Oh, this is bad for my climbing." But she said, 304 00:20:15,104 --> 00:20:17,505 "Is that really gonna make your life any better?" 305 00:20:17,507 --> 00:20:20,108 I was like, "No, probably not." 306 00:20:20,110 --> 00:20:23,647 This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable. 307 00:20:24,080 --> 00:20:25,479 I said, you know, 308 00:20:25,481 --> 00:20:28,582 "I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all. 309 00:20:28,584 --> 00:20:32,523 I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb." 310 00:20:33,422 --> 00:20:35,590 Exhale. 311 00:20:35,592 --> 00:20:38,626 As it turns out, compression fracture isn't too serious. 312 00:20:38,628 --> 00:20:41,496 They said that I could climb and just be careful about pain management and 313 00:20:41,498 --> 00:20:44,468 all that stuff. 314 00:20:44,668 --> 00:20:47,502 But it's just a little bit rattling. 315 00:20:47,504 --> 00:20:50,537 Because I definitely know some people who have fallen super far and survived or, 316 00:20:50,539 --> 00:20:53,207 like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay. 317 00:20:53,209 --> 00:20:56,878 And now I'm like, "I don't know, like, I don't think I'd be okay." 318 00:20:56,880 --> 00:21:00,547 And so I imagine falling free soloing or something from 50 meters up, I mean, 319 00:21:00,549 --> 00:21:03,319 I realize that my body would just explode on impact. 320 00:21:20,436 --> 00:21:23,603 In 2012, I was here for the first time and it was right before I went to 321 00:21:23,605 --> 00:21:27,443 Yosemite for the season, and that was like my best Yosemite season ever. 322 00:21:39,322 --> 00:21:40,854 What was that, Alex? 323 00:21:40,856 --> 00:21:42,857 I said you just passed halfway and, uh, the rope's actually looking 324 00:21:42,859 --> 00:21:45,662 pretty good now. 325 00:21:46,696 --> 00:21:49,630 Yeah, pretty nice rock. 326 00:21:49,632 --> 00:21:53,137 I think the climbing here in Morocco, it's good training for El Cap. 327 00:21:54,872 --> 00:21:58,438 It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get him good at moving through the mountains, 328 00:21:58,440 --> 00:22:01,377 it's gonna make him feel fit. 329 00:22:07,283 --> 00:22:11,655 Flowing through the mountains in the ways that you do with Alex is addicting. 330 00:22:15,325 --> 00:22:19,729 His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible, 331 00:22:23,932 --> 00:22:29,573 which is emotionally appealing, but for me I don't think it's the smartest thing. 332 00:22:33,242 --> 00:22:34,742 Ah! 333 00:22:34,744 --> 00:22:38,382 Climbing with Alex is, it's like a vice in a way. 334 00:22:39,449 --> 00:22:42,617 It's like smoking cigarettes with beer or something. 335 00:22:42,619 --> 00:22:45,785 It's like, I don't really wanna do it but I just, like, let myself do it sometimes 336 00:22:45,787 --> 00:22:46,987 because it's kinda nice. 337 00:22:46,989 --> 00:22:50,493 - Yeah, buddy! - Yo! 338 00:22:56,431 --> 00:22:59,399 Can you read me your journal entry for today? 339 00:22:59,401 --> 00:23:02,905 It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux, two pumped, need more fitness." 340 00:23:05,708 --> 00:23:09,610 Do you ever put things like "Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life"? 341 00:23:09,612 --> 00:23:11,845 No, not in the climbing journal. 342 00:23:11,847 --> 00:23:15,416 - Miss my dog. - No. 343 00:23:15,418 --> 00:23:17,450 - And my mom. - I don't know, none? 344 00:23:17,452 --> 00:23:19,956 - No, no. - No. -All right. 345 00:23:32,401 --> 00:23:36,670 Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at 346 00:23:36,672 --> 00:23:38,605 the bottom of the gully going into the base. 347 00:23:38,607 --> 00:23:40,041 Okay. 348 00:23:40,043 --> 00:23:42,575 And then we'll be shooting on the wall. 349 00:23:42,577 --> 00:23:45,679 So, once we pass you guys, you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically? 350 00:23:45,681 --> 00:23:46,814 Yeah. 351 00:23:46,816 --> 00:23:49,550 Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years. 352 00:23:49,552 --> 00:23:51,552 We've climbed all over the world. 353 00:23:51,554 --> 00:23:53,621 We are doing the triple link up too, right? 354 00:23:53,623 --> 00:23:55,689 I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we're gonna be 355 00:23:55,691 --> 00:23:57,995 as Cheyne says, "Yoked." 356 00:24:01,764 --> 00:24:04,799 The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers. 357 00:24:04,801 --> 00:24:07,504 The best possible crew for this kind of thing. 358 00:24:07,804 --> 00:24:09,736 And so in a way, I'm like, "This is kinda awesome." You know, 359 00:24:09,738 --> 00:24:13,276 it's kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends. 360 00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:20,715 Mikey, we should put someone right here because if you lean out you can see the 361 00:24:20,717 --> 00:24:22,582 entire freaking route. 362 00:24:22,584 --> 00:24:25,018 Then let's just put the 100 meter there and the 400 footer here. 363 00:24:25,020 --> 00:24:26,922 Doubled up. 364 00:24:27,323 --> 00:24:32,595 I've known Alex since he pretty much started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009. 365 00:24:33,395 --> 00:24:38,032 I've filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing. 366 00:24:38,034 --> 00:24:41,502 And then we've also spent a couple of winters together down in South America. 367 00:24:41,504 --> 00:24:44,071 So, uh, we, the time's added up. 368 00:24:44,073 --> 00:24:46,506 Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now. 369 00:24:46,508 --> 00:24:50,678 So, I'm scared because I don't wanna see anything happen to Alex. 370 00:24:50,680 --> 00:24:53,447 I mean, it's one of the reasons that I almost said no to this job, and, I mean, 371 00:24:53,449 --> 00:24:55,749 I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like, 372 00:24:55,751 --> 00:24:58,421 "Do we really wanna be part of this?" 373 00:24:59,756 --> 00:25:02,622 I've always been conflicted about shooting a film about free soloing 374 00:25:02,624 --> 00:25:05,926 just because it's so dangerous. 375 00:25:05,928 --> 00:25:11,131 It's hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex, soloing something that's extremely 376 00:25:11,133 --> 00:25:15,572 dangerous and you're making a film about it, which might put undue pressure on him 377 00:25:16,072 --> 00:25:19,943 to do something, and him falling through the frame to his death. 378 00:25:24,680 --> 00:25:30,884 And we have to work through that and understand that what we're doing is something that 379 00:25:30,886 --> 00:25:33,089 we can live with even in a worst-case scenario. 380 00:25:40,430 --> 00:25:43,531 It's a funny thing, people who know a little bit about climbing, they're like, 381 00:25:43,533 --> 00:25:46,633 "Oh, he says he has it, he's, he's totally safe." 382 00:25:46,635 --> 00:25:51,107 And then people who really know exactly what he's doing are freaked out. 383 00:25:51,475 --> 00:25:54,475 My dad was always like, "I don't want you to go ice climbing. 384 00:25:54,477 --> 00:25:57,514 I don't want you to free solo," you know. 385 00:25:57,947 --> 00:25:59,412 Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like. 386 00:25:59,414 --> 00:26:02,716 When he was my age, he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had 387 00:26:02,718 --> 00:26:04,150 died in the mountains. 388 00:26:04,152 --> 00:26:06,754 And now I'm at that point where I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends 389 00:26:06,756 --> 00:26:08,488 that have died in the mountains. 390 00:26:08,490 --> 00:26:10,024 That many? 391 00:26:10,026 --> 00:26:11,624 Yeah, I counted them a while ago. 392 00:26:11,626 --> 00:26:13,192 I mean, like not friends but people in our community. 393 00:26:13,194 --> 00:26:16,596 Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally, like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently. 394 00:26:16,598 --> 00:26:18,899 People that I have met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah. 395 00:26:18,901 --> 00:26:21,735 I haven't had anybody die who I was, like, really, really, close to yet. 396 00:26:21,737 --> 00:26:25,409 Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm. I don't know. 397 00:26:25,941 --> 00:26:30,777 I think everybody who has made free soloing a big part of their life, 398 00:26:30,779 --> 00:26:32,815 is dead now. 399 00:26:33,615 --> 00:26:37,019 John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing, 400 00:26:37,386 --> 00:26:41,721 he fell to his death this past week at the age of 52 from a cliff. 401 00:26:41,723 --> 00:26:43,791 And we're sorry to have to report on the death of 402 00:26:43,793 --> 00:26:46,126 U.S. Climber Sean Leary. 403 00:26:46,128 --> 00:26:49,263 Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago. 404 00:26:49,265 --> 00:26:51,966 Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley. 405 00:26:51,968 --> 00:26:54,504 His body was found Saturday morning. 406 00:26:54,836 --> 00:26:58,138 Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes. 407 00:26:58,140 --> 00:27:00,140 Most people that are pushing the limits, 408 00:27:00,142 --> 00:27:04,613 they have this mentality of "Screw it, whatever happens, happens." 409 00:27:27,569 --> 00:27:31,173 I think all the soloing he's done has trained his mind. 410 00:27:31,407 --> 00:27:35,779 He doesn't get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do. 411 00:27:36,546 --> 00:27:39,313 And not knowing about the science of that is that's probably a product 412 00:27:39,315 --> 00:27:43,219 of your past more than it is just a genetic thing. 413 00:27:46,087 --> 00:27:49,023 There's been a lot of speculation about, like, how I deal with fear and, 414 00:27:49,025 --> 00:27:51,190 like, how I'm able to free solo. 415 00:27:51,192 --> 00:27:54,027 People are just like, "Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker. 416 00:27:54,029 --> 00:27:56,732 There must be something defective." 417 00:27:59,936 --> 00:28:01,302 So when a writer contacted me about doing an 418 00:28:01,304 --> 00:28:05,738 MRI, I thought it's kind of cool just to go and get an MRI and, like, 419 00:28:05,740 --> 00:28:07,240 see what's actually going on. 420 00:28:07,242 --> 00:28:10,679 You know, scan your brain and then see if it's all there structurally. 421 00:28:13,716 --> 00:28:15,315 We're gonna start the task now. 422 00:28:15,317 --> 00:28:19,152 Remember to press the button every time you see a new picture come up, okay? 423 00:28:19,154 --> 00:28:21,023 Okay. 424 00:28:23,625 --> 00:28:26,826 We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some kind of freak creature or something. 425 00:28:26,828 --> 00:28:29,196 I've had several ex-girlfriends said that I have personality 426 00:28:29,198 --> 00:28:31,130 disorders or things like that. 427 00:28:31,132 --> 00:28:32,932 That there's something wrong with me. 428 00:28:32,934 --> 00:28:35,034 Emotionally stable? 429 00:28:35,036 --> 00:28:36,336 Agree. 430 00:28:36,338 --> 00:28:38,839 Ingenious, a deep thinker? 431 00:28:38,841 --> 00:28:40,674 Disagree. 432 00:28:40,676 --> 00:28:42,075 Tends to find fault with others? 433 00:28:42,077 --> 00:28:43,877 Agree somewhat. 434 00:28:43,879 --> 00:28:46,647 Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me? 435 00:28:46,649 --> 00:28:48,815 I have trouble controlling my impulses? 436 00:28:48,817 --> 00:28:51,884 Is depressed? 437 00:28:51,886 --> 00:28:55,090 Hmm. 438 00:28:55,658 --> 00:28:57,690 Is my, is my brain intact? 439 00:28:57,692 --> 00:29:00,226 Your brain's intact and it's, it's quite interesting. 440 00:29:00,228 --> 00:29:04,130 Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen, 441 00:29:04,132 --> 00:29:06,670 that's the amygdala. 442 00:29:08,103 --> 00:29:13,306 So an interesting thing, do you have no activation in your amygdala? 443 00:29:13,308 --> 00:29:16,211 There's just not much going on in my brain, it seems. 444 00:29:17,112 --> 00:29:20,714 Um, do you think my amygdala actually just doesn't work or something? 445 00:29:20,716 --> 00:29:25,589 Your amygdala works, it's just that it needs a much higher level of stimulation. 446 00:29:27,023 --> 00:29:31,425 Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us are 447 00:29:31,427 --> 00:29:33,427 not really doing it for you. 448 00:29:33,429 --> 00:29:35,862 Maybe my amygdala's just tired, you know, 449 00:29:35,864 --> 00:29:38,969 from too many years of being all gripped. 450 00:30:07,328 --> 00:30:11,367 I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's such a mental component to free soloing. 451 00:30:12,535 --> 00:30:17,036 The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess. 452 00:30:17,038 --> 00:30:19,439 Because you're not, you're not controlling your fear, you're sort of just trying 453 00:30:19,441 --> 00:30:22,277 to step outside of it. 454 00:30:24,846 --> 00:30:27,850 Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex! 455 00:30:28,183 --> 00:30:31,351 And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear, I mean, 456 00:30:31,353 --> 00:30:33,954 I look at it in a different way. 457 00:30:33,956 --> 00:30:38,257 I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves over and over again. 458 00:30:38,259 --> 00:30:41,397 I work through the fear, until it's just not scary anymore. 459 00:30:43,865 --> 00:30:45,364 Oh, no, no, no, no. 460 00:30:45,366 --> 00:30:48,704 Oh, so slippery. 461 00:30:48,970 --> 00:30:53,276 But, um, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies. 462 00:30:54,309 --> 00:31:00,115 You're standing on tiny edges, small variations in the texture of the rock. 463 00:31:00,982 --> 00:31:04,784 If you slip, your hands can't hold you. 464 00:31:04,786 --> 00:31:08,956 It's just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling, and 465 00:31:08,958 --> 00:31:12,696 when you step up, there's only one. 466 00:31:13,094 --> 00:31:15,464 Oh. 467 00:31:23,404 --> 00:31:29,812 It's like, it looks so much better today than yesterday, but we'll see. 468 00:31:32,847 --> 00:31:36,149 I probably fell about 30 feet. 469 00:31:36,151 --> 00:31:40,454 We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's belaying me, and then I just fell off, 470 00:31:40,456 --> 00:31:41,621 I don't know. 471 00:31:41,623 --> 00:31:44,323 I just, I don't even know how, I just, like, fell off. 472 00:31:44,325 --> 00:31:46,092 Show me how much you can go up and down on your own. 473 00:31:46,094 --> 00:31:49,095 It's, it's like, you know. 474 00:31:49,097 --> 00:31:51,364 I think this looks to me just like your straightforward ankle sprain. 475 00:31:51,366 --> 00:31:52,733 Okay. 476 00:31:52,735 --> 00:31:55,034 So, you know, we say ankle sprain, but more or less an ankle sprain 477 00:31:55,036 --> 00:31:56,169 is torn ligaments. 478 00:31:56,171 --> 00:31:57,572 - Yeah. - That's what it is. 479 00:31:57,574 --> 00:31:58,939 ...So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff? 480 00:31:58,941 --> 00:32:02,242 I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh, still just hike. 481 00:32:02,244 --> 00:32:04,277 Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get yourself through the first few days. 482 00:32:04,279 --> 00:32:05,513 Yeah. 483 00:32:05,515 --> 00:32:06,846 Um, but after that and it's just strengthening and rehab. 484 00:32:06,848 --> 00:32:09,816 Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity? 485 00:32:09,818 --> 00:32:14,257 Um, you could probably do too much too soon. 486 00:32:21,529 --> 00:32:24,031 Wait, you don't need to keep that right. 487 00:32:24,033 --> 00:32:26,600 I can worry as much as I want internally, 488 00:32:26,602 --> 00:32:30,603 but if he doesn't do this stuff he'd regret it. 489 00:32:30,605 --> 00:32:35,409 If Alex and I got married and had kids, I would feel a lot more willing to say 490 00:32:35,411 --> 00:32:40,179 what I thought about what was acceptable risk or not. 491 00:32:40,181 --> 00:32:42,451 He should have put his shoe on. 492 00:32:45,321 --> 00:32:48,291 - Stubborn. - Stubborn. 493 00:32:55,430 --> 00:32:59,198 I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now, I thought you're fine. 494 00:32:59,200 --> 00:33:00,501 Oh, I am, but what. 495 00:33:00,503 --> 00:33:02,936 Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on. 496 00:33:02,938 --> 00:33:04,504 Don't you want some watermelon? 497 00:33:04,506 --> 00:33:07,640 Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you. 498 00:33:07,642 --> 00:33:10,009 Uh-huh, I know, I'm pretty stoked about that. 499 00:33:10,011 --> 00:33:12,912 All right, um, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this, you're like, 500 00:33:12,914 --> 00:33:14,448 "Why did you do it that way?" 501 00:33:14,450 --> 00:33:16,082 I just want watermelon. 502 00:33:16,084 --> 00:33:18,051 I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent because 503 00:33:18,053 --> 00:33:19,486 you're just like, "Whatever." 504 00:33:19,488 --> 00:33:21,021 I haven't been injured in, like, seven years and then it's like I'm 505 00:33:21,023 --> 00:33:23,924 hanging out with this girl that doesn't climb and I suddenly start getting 506 00:33:23,926 --> 00:33:25,359 injured all the time. 507 00:33:25,361 --> 00:33:27,930 It's like you just cut down a tree. 508 00:33:36,505 --> 00:33:41,341 When they say "active recovery," no, that doesn't mean you're walking 509 00:33:41,343 --> 00:33:44,247 all over the place. 510 00:33:44,447 --> 00:33:48,383 I would be happy if he didn't free solo. 511 00:33:49,384 --> 00:33:53,954 I've always appreciated that he never told me beforehand that he was gonna 512 00:33:53,956 --> 00:33:55,922 free solo or anything. 513 00:33:55,924 --> 00:33:58,992 I could come down on him and say, "You shouldn't be doing that," 514 00:33:58,994 --> 00:34:02,028 and alienate him, and, uh, it would've alienated 515 00:34:02,030 --> 00:34:04,630 him because that's his, uh, whole life. 516 00:34:04,632 --> 00:34:08,134 I think when he's free soloing, that's when he feels the most alive, 517 00:34:08,136 --> 00:34:10,370 the most everything, the most. 518 00:34:10,372 --> 00:34:11,904 Feels the most. 519 00:34:11,906 --> 00:34:16,275 And how can you even think about taking that away from somebody, you know? 520 00:34:16,277 --> 00:34:18,348 I wouldn't. 521 00:34:28,424 --> 00:34:31,257 I've been able to stand on one foot while I put my harness and my shoes and 522 00:34:31,259 --> 00:34:34,497 stuff on, and getting' this like kind of, a minor victory. 523 00:34:36,732 --> 00:34:40,333 Um, I haven't put on my climbing shoe basically since I did it. 524 00:34:40,335 --> 00:34:43,372 So swollen. So tender. 525 00:34:47,408 --> 00:34:52,011 Unfortunately, crack climbing is all ankle-dependent. 526 00:34:52,013 --> 00:34:57,850 And Freerider is 3,000 feet of crack climbing. 527 00:34:57,852 --> 00:35:00,420 All my friends that have sprained their ankles in serious ways have 528 00:35:00,422 --> 00:35:05,561 all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at least six months until it's normal." 529 00:35:06,261 --> 00:35:08,395 If I can't get this done in the next month 530 00:35:08,397 --> 00:35:12,235 then the weather will change and I'll have to wait until next year. 531 00:35:23,611 --> 00:35:27,047 You know, a couple years ago, I remember him telling me that he had never 532 00:35:27,049 --> 00:35:31,350 fallen unexpectedly in his life, and now I've seen it happen twice 533 00:35:31,352 --> 00:35:33,620 in the past, like, month. 534 00:35:33,622 --> 00:35:36,658 But when you hear stuff like that, you start to wonder a little bit. 535 00:35:37,926 --> 00:35:41,560 I had this dream the night before he called me that he had, like, 536 00:35:41,562 --> 00:35:44,563 wandered into our house and asked us, and, like, started crying, 537 00:35:44,565 --> 00:35:46,766 which really freaked me out 'cause Alex doesn't cry. 538 00:35:46,768 --> 00:35:50,504 And then he had told me that he fell free soloing and started, like, 539 00:35:50,506 --> 00:35:54,074 revealing all of his injuries, like he pulled up his sleeve on his arm, 540 00:35:54,076 --> 00:35:57,576 and in my dream a bone just, like, fell out of his arm and it was all messed up. 541 00:35:57,578 --> 00:36:02,415 And that, and it was this really, like, kind of vivid, but super freaky dream. 542 00:36:02,417 --> 00:36:06,355 And, uh, and then the next day he called me and told me he hurt himself. 543 00:36:07,321 --> 00:36:09,156 Hi, hi, Ingrid. 544 00:36:09,158 --> 00:36:11,324 Sometimes, one at a time. 545 00:36:11,326 --> 00:36:12,826 Hi, hello, how's it going? 546 00:36:12,828 --> 00:36:15,828 - Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz! - So we got Fitz. 547 00:36:15,830 --> 00:36:18,198 - Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz! - Are you gonna carve a pumpkin? 548 00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:20,100 Nice, that's good. 549 00:36:20,102 --> 00:36:21,667 That seems off. 550 00:36:23,404 --> 00:36:24,705 Eww. 551 00:36:24,707 --> 00:36:27,174 Alex said, "I want nothing to do with the pumpkin carving, 552 00:36:27,176 --> 00:36:28,775 and I won't carve anything and I hate holidays." 553 00:36:28,777 --> 00:36:30,544 I like having fun when I have fun. 554 00:36:30,546 --> 00:36:34,082 I don't like being told that it's time to have fun. 555 00:36:34,283 --> 00:36:37,353 Yeah, I think we need to a little more. 556 00:36:37,685 --> 00:36:38,784 Whoa, she's squirming. 557 00:36:38,786 --> 00:36:40,853 I don't know. Do you have a good grip on there? 558 00:36:40,855 --> 00:36:43,723 You put that in my eye again, I'm gonna drop you. 559 00:36:43,725 --> 00:36:46,192 Why does it not want to see us? 560 00:36:46,194 --> 00:36:47,294 Just kidding, I won't. 561 00:36:47,296 --> 00:36:48,795 He keeps. 562 00:36:48,797 --> 00:36:50,230 You gotta lift him up more, you need to. 563 00:36:50,232 --> 00:36:51,765 Bye, Tom. 564 00:36:51,767 --> 00:36:53,433 Oh man, you should have a lot of fear right now. 565 00:36:53,435 --> 00:36:55,301 Okay, 'cause' I feel a lot of anxiety. 566 00:36:55,303 --> 00:36:58,404 No one in any part of my family has hugged during all my formative years. 567 00:36:58,406 --> 00:37:01,775 I had to teach myself how to hug when I was, like, 23 or something. 568 00:37:01,777 --> 00:37:03,576 'Cause I was like, "Everyone seems to hug, 569 00:37:03,578 --> 00:37:05,178 that seems like something I should get into," 570 00:37:05,180 --> 00:37:07,413 and then I started, like, practicing. 571 00:37:07,415 --> 00:37:08,815 Now I'm quite a good hugger. 572 00:37:08,817 --> 00:37:10,350 Yes. 573 00:37:10,352 --> 00:37:11,750 You see that the pumpkin is a van? 574 00:37:11,752 --> 00:37:13,487 - I did see it. - That's a precious van. 575 00:37:13,489 --> 00:37:14,687 Is it a cat? 576 00:37:14,689 --> 00:37:16,455 - I did the cat. -That's good. - Look at that. 577 00:37:16,457 --> 00:37:18,125 Um, I did it all by my. 578 00:37:18,127 --> 00:37:19,493 Honestly, it does look good like this. 579 00:37:19,495 --> 00:37:21,294 It looked terrible. 580 00:37:21,296 --> 00:37:22,895 I think, yeah. 581 00:37:22,897 --> 00:37:26,232 Part of the thing with the L word, you know, is saying love and stuff, 582 00:37:26,234 --> 00:37:29,569 is that, like, in my entire life no one in any part of my family has ever used, 583 00:37:29,571 --> 00:37:31,674 you know, that word. 584 00:37:35,777 --> 00:37:38,444 My Mom has only spoken French to my sister and I our whole lives. 585 00:37:38,446 --> 00:37:41,181 She's a French teacher, so she says, "Je t'aime" or whatever, 586 00:37:41,183 --> 00:37:45,221 and then my dad didn't talk about anything. 587 00:37:45,520 --> 00:37:48,855 Nobody had an emotional bond with Charlie. 588 00:37:48,857 --> 00:37:52,495 Charlie was probably what we call nowadays Asperger's. 589 00:37:55,263 --> 00:37:57,897 Charlie's obsession, what everyone called monomania. 590 00:37:57,899 --> 00:37:59,699 He loved to travel. 591 00:37:59,701 --> 00:38:02,105 He lived to travel like Alex lives to climb. 592 00:38:02,971 --> 00:38:05,841 When he wasn't traveling, things were not good. 593 00:38:06,741 --> 00:38:09,708 Alex would do something and we'd call him stupid names, 594 00:38:09,710 --> 00:38:13,649 "Hey, bozo, don't do it like that," just demeaning things. 595 00:38:14,149 --> 00:38:18,217 If you learn that about your self-worth when you're this big, 596 00:38:18,219 --> 00:38:21,357 I don't think that goes away. 597 00:38:22,024 --> 00:38:25,594 I have no recollection of that. 598 00:38:25,962 --> 00:38:28,261 I don't think my dad put down anybody. 599 00:38:28,263 --> 00:38:32,602 I think my dad is like a teddy bear, but dad was pretty morose. 600 00:38:34,969 --> 00:38:37,571 And then the thing is once they got divorced, then they both were, like, 601 00:38:37,573 --> 00:38:40,743 so much happier and it all seemed great, but he died the next summer. 602 00:38:41,944 --> 00:38:46,879 It's really kind of too bad that he doesn't get to see how it all played out, 603 00:38:46,881 --> 00:38:51,153 'cause he put so much effort into nurturing my climbing. 604 00:38:53,689 --> 00:38:55,089 But who knows? 605 00:38:55,091 --> 00:38:58,924 Maybe mom thought that he was, like, holding us back or, like, you know, 606 00:38:58,926 --> 00:39:02,228 not pushing us to achieve our full potential or, like, whatever, 607 00:39:02,230 --> 00:39:04,366 you know what I mean? 608 00:39:04,667 --> 00:39:07,734 My Mom's favorite sayings are, "Presque ne compte pas," 609 00:39:07,736 --> 00:39:11,641 "Almost doesn't count," or, uh, "Good enough isn't." 610 00:39:12,007 --> 00:39:14,643 No matter how well I ever do at anything, it's not that good. 611 00:39:20,582 --> 00:39:23,786 The bottomless pit of self-loathing. 612 00:39:25,754 --> 00:39:30,560 I mean, that's definitely the motivation for some soloing. 613 00:39:40,368 --> 00:39:42,437 Here we are. 614 00:39:43,238 --> 00:39:45,337 So I still never, like, quietly, 615 00:39:45,339 --> 00:39:47,440 quite understand what happened when you fell, you, 616 00:39:47,442 --> 00:39:48,975 like, do you even know? 617 00:39:48,977 --> 00:39:50,509 It should be just kinda, like. 618 00:39:50,511 --> 00:39:52,578 Uh, I don't know why I fell off, but I mean I know that my skin was, 619 00:39:52,580 --> 00:39:53,813 like, hard and dry. 620 00:39:53,815 --> 00:39:55,015 It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy. 621 00:39:55,017 --> 00:39:58,788 Weird he doesn't even say he knows what happened. 622 00:39:59,020 --> 00:40:02,455 He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling," which kind of surprised me because I feel 623 00:40:02,457 --> 00:40:04,958 like he's always so aware. 624 00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:07,863 Or like maybe he's not always totally aware. 625 00:40:08,730 --> 00:40:13,400 You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos and I think as, like, 626 00:40:13,402 --> 00:40:16,772 a friend or a family member of him, you kinda have to have that same thing. 627 00:40:21,810 --> 00:40:26,015 Like after that happened, for whatever reason, it kinda like waked me up more than normal. 628 00:40:26,982 --> 00:40:29,315 You know, normally I'm just like, "Oh, he's got it. 629 00:40:29,317 --> 00:40:31,317 He's such, he's such a beast, you know, he's gonna be fine." 630 00:40:31,319 --> 00:40:37,290 But I just, like, 631 00:40:37,292 --> 00:40:41,596 am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know? 632 00:40:45,500 --> 00:40:49,703 Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to 633 00:40:49,705 --> 00:40:53,409 challenging yourself and doing something well. 634 00:40:54,143 --> 00:40:57,710 That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death. 635 00:40:57,712 --> 00:41:00,815 You can't make a mistake. 636 00:41:01,283 --> 00:41:06,585 If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. 637 00:41:06,587 --> 00:41:11,526 And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment. 638 00:41:15,430 --> 00:41:18,665 My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident, 639 00:41:18,667 --> 00:41:22,569 they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know, 640 00:41:22,571 --> 00:41:23,904 like they'll be fine. 641 00:41:23,906 --> 00:41:25,404 I mean, and I've had this problem with girls a lot, you know. 642 00:41:25,406 --> 00:41:28,708 They're like, "Oh, I really care about you," I'm like, "No you don't." 643 00:41:28,710 --> 00:41:30,342 Like if I perish, like, it doesn't matter, 644 00:41:30,344 --> 00:41:33,879 like you'll find somebody else, like, that's not, that's not that big a deal. 645 00:41:33,881 --> 00:41:36,584 I don't know. 646 00:41:36,984 --> 00:41:39,921 Maybe that's a little too callous. 647 00:41:45,160 --> 00:41:49,665 My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit. 648 00:41:53,667 --> 00:41:56,604 Rope! 649 00:42:01,810 --> 00:42:04,476 Pretty epic rappel. 650 00:42:04,478 --> 00:42:07,350 Uh, we're just commuting down the wall, kinda. 651 00:42:07,817 --> 00:42:10,119 We're just having a good old time. 652 00:42:11,252 --> 00:42:14,654 If you look at soloing El Cap objectively, there are probably six pitches that 653 00:42:14,656 --> 00:42:17,457 worry me the most. 654 00:42:17,459 --> 00:42:19,993 Just off the ground, there's some insecure climbing. 655 00:42:19,995 --> 00:42:22,629 And then Freeblast, Pitch 6, being the one I fell off of, 656 00:42:22,631 --> 00:42:25,531 which is obviously a total botch. 657 00:42:25,533 --> 00:42:28,902 Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. 658 00:42:28,904 --> 00:42:31,904 And then the Monster Offwidth, 659 00:42:31,906 --> 00:42:34,709 which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. 660 00:42:38,814 --> 00:42:41,948 When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being 661 00:42:41,950 --> 00:42:44,719 crushed in the mountain. 662 00:42:45,419 --> 00:42:49,054 Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, 663 00:42:49,056 --> 00:42:52,458 somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin 664 00:42:52,460 --> 00:42:56,866 off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, 665 00:42:57,232 --> 00:43:00,803 and if you lose the position you die. 666 00:43:04,538 --> 00:43:08,607 The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of 667 00:43:08,609 --> 00:43:10,645 virtually any big solo I've done. 668 00:43:15,683 --> 00:43:18,685 Your feet aren't on any specific holds. 669 00:43:18,687 --> 00:43:20,853 What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you 670 00:43:20,855 --> 00:43:23,926 pull with your hands. 671 00:43:24,593 --> 00:43:27,794 The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. 672 00:43:27,796 --> 00:43:31,200 The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. 673 00:43:31,732 --> 00:43:36,037 And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued. 674 00:43:39,207 --> 00:43:43,112 But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part. 675 00:43:44,145 --> 00:43:49,651 To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. 676 00:43:50,152 --> 00:43:54,156 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope. 677 00:43:59,828 --> 00:44:02,931 The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass, 678 00:44:03,332 --> 00:44:07,236 which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. 679 00:44:07,935 --> 00:44:12,038 Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, 680 00:44:12,040 --> 00:44:15,007 and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so 681 00:44:15,009 --> 00:44:17,911 that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. 682 00:44:17,913 --> 00:44:21,080 And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like, 683 00:44:21,082 --> 00:44:24,185 that's just a crazy thing to think about. 684 00:44:26,187 --> 00:44:29,491 The alternative is the Boulder Problem. 685 00:44:30,658 --> 00:44:33,578 But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult. 686 00:44:36,730 --> 00:44:39,632 It's a very intricate sequence. 687 00:44:39,634 --> 00:44:43,706 You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, 688 00:44:44,239 --> 00:44:47,643 and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. 689 00:44:48,076 --> 00:44:51,881 Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish, 690 00:44:54,181 --> 00:44:57,616 and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. 691 00:44:57,618 --> 00:44:59,752 That's the worst hold on the entire route. 692 00:44:59,754 --> 00:45:02,658 So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. 693 00:45:03,125 --> 00:45:07,630 Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet, 694 00:45:08,797 --> 00:45:11,934 left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. 695 00:45:14,768 --> 00:45:17,605 Switch your thumbs. 696 00:45:19,873 --> 00:45:23,141 And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that 697 00:45:23,143 --> 00:45:26,114 feels kind of grainy. 698 00:45:27,315 --> 00:45:31,986 From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall. 699 00:45:35,022 --> 00:45:38,690 In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to 700 00:45:38,692 --> 00:45:42,031 a good edge so there's actually something to catch. 701 00:45:48,136 --> 00:45:51,239 But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous, 702 00:45:51,439 --> 00:45:54,776 if you miss it, that's that. 703 00:45:56,245 --> 00:46:00,716 But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall, 704 00:46:00,948 --> 00:46:04,185 which also feels outrageous for soloing. 705 00:46:19,968 --> 00:46:23,236 Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching 706 00:46:23,238 --> 00:46:24,870 that shit and just being that, put the foot. 707 00:46:24,872 --> 00:46:27,005 Well, as I said, when you actually put your foot out there, I was like, 708 00:46:27,007 --> 00:46:28,040 "Well, that doesn't look that bad." 709 00:46:28,042 --> 00:46:32,780 Yeah, it's not like crazy, but we'll see. 710 00:46:38,687 --> 00:46:40,319 Did you take Ibuprofen this morning? 711 00:46:40,321 --> 00:46:42,989 Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm going to right now also. 712 00:46:42,991 --> 00:46:45,024 - For your ankle? - Uh-hmm. 713 00:46:45,026 --> 00:46:51,366 Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing, because he's already a 714 00:46:52,232 --> 00:46:55,701 big part of my life. 715 00:46:55,703 --> 00:47:00,408 I tell Alex I love him all the time, and he shows me that he loves me all the time. 716 00:47:02,243 --> 00:47:04,109 And really just dive in. 717 00:47:04,111 --> 00:47:05,344 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 718 00:47:05,346 --> 00:47:07,446 But I also tell him that I also need words of affection. 719 00:47:07,448 --> 00:47:10,251 - Yeah. - We work on that. 720 00:47:11,719 --> 00:47:16,125 In terms of learning how to communicate emotion, Alex has a long way to go. 721 00:47:16,692 --> 00:47:22,295 And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you how I feel, and I just need you to say it 722 00:47:22,297 --> 00:47:25,000 totally makes sense that you feel that way." 723 00:47:25,734 --> 00:47:28,971 He was like, "Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way." 724 00:47:30,305 --> 00:47:33,105 I was like, "I don't really think that you do, 725 00:47:33,107 --> 00:47:36,010 but I'm glad that you're trying." 726 00:47:37,779 --> 00:47:40,112 Alex, we have excellent team skills. 727 00:47:40,114 --> 00:47:42,380 Well, I thought, I feel like we're not quite killin' it, but we're, 728 00:47:42,382 --> 00:47:43,850 I think we're doin' well. 729 00:47:43,852 --> 00:47:46,252 Really? I think we're doing great. 730 00:47:46,254 --> 00:47:49,825 I'm very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well. 731 00:47:50,457 --> 00:47:53,461 And I'm, I think I'm just impressed by their relationship, 732 00:47:55,964 --> 00:48:00,002 but to free solo at that level, you really have to have the mental armor. 733 00:48:01,069 --> 00:48:04,440 Having that romantic relationship around is detrimental to that armor. 734 00:48:05,373 --> 00:48:08,908 You have to focus and inherently a close romantic relationship 735 00:48:08,910 --> 00:48:10,275 removes that armor. 736 00:48:10,277 --> 00:48:13,748 You kinda can't have both at the same time. 737 00:48:39,841 --> 00:48:42,107 There's always something that has to give you the confidence to 738 00:48:42,109 --> 00:48:44,277 go out and free solo a route. 739 00:48:44,279 --> 00:48:48,150 So sometimes, that confidence just comes from feeling super, super fit. 740 00:48:48,350 --> 00:48:51,819 Sometimes, that confidence comes through preparation and rehearsal. 741 00:48:52,486 --> 00:48:55,256 But I mean there's always something that makes you feel ready. 742 00:49:02,897 --> 00:49:05,063 There's something to be said for, like, soloing a bunch of pitches to, like, 743 00:49:05,065 --> 00:49:08,437 get into that right space. 744 00:49:10,839 --> 00:49:12,908 It's a little stressful. 745 00:49:13,241 --> 00:49:16,842 It's just, it's unreal. 746 00:49:16,844 --> 00:49:18,478 Yeah. 747 00:49:18,480 --> 00:49:21,880 And as much as I trust Alex and I know that he's really methodical, uh, 748 00:49:21,882 --> 00:49:25,053 if you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. 749 00:49:28,489 --> 00:49:30,089 But then there's just some things that you're, like, well, 750 00:49:30,091 --> 00:49:33,625 you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool. 751 00:49:33,627 --> 00:49:36,430 And El Cap is that cool. 752 00:49:39,334 --> 00:49:42,805 There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things, 753 00:49:43,205 --> 00:49:46,975 but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap, 754 00:49:47,408 --> 00:49:50,946 if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap. 755 00:49:51,779 --> 00:49:55,950 It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves, without a rope, 756 00:49:56,317 --> 00:49:58,484 where it's pretty much all the other big cliffs around here. 757 00:49:58,486 --> 00:50:01,190 I can kinda get it. 758 00:50:01,756 --> 00:50:04,022 How many times have you soloed both those routes now? 759 00:50:04,024 --> 00:50:08,159 Well, Astroman, three or four times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally, 760 00:50:08,161 --> 00:50:10,263 like, fifty, sixty. 761 00:50:10,265 --> 00:50:12,500 Wait, you've soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times? 762 00:50:13,134 --> 00:50:15,134 It was like part of the circuit and I would, 763 00:50:15,136 --> 00:50:17,270 I would go there and I would do it at least twice. 764 00:50:17,272 --> 00:50:19,540 Like I was just glommed on. 765 00:50:19,806 --> 00:50:21,040 Uh-huh. 766 00:50:21,042 --> 00:50:22,408 Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how. 767 00:50:22,410 --> 00:50:24,676 Yeah, because you're so tight. You know, I love that about soloing. 768 00:50:24,678 --> 00:50:26,578 My footwork gets really good. 769 00:50:26,580 --> 00:50:28,147 Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah. 770 00:50:28,149 --> 00:50:30,449 But it's not for anybody else, this is just for me. 771 00:50:30,451 --> 00:50:32,183 Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you're. 772 00:50:32,185 --> 00:50:33,920 And after Astroman, people were like, 773 00:50:33,922 --> 00:50:35,487 "Ah, we wanna film you, film you up there," 774 00:50:35,489 --> 00:50:38,426 and I'm like, "Not interested, not even slightly." 775 00:50:38,627 --> 00:50:42,295 For me, it was so incredibly important to be doing it for the right reasons. 776 00:50:42,297 --> 00:50:45,330 I mean, I think I'm still doing everything for the right reasons, 777 00:50:45,332 --> 00:50:48,567 and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel like from the outside observer, you know, 778 00:50:48,569 --> 00:50:51,937 they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a movie crew," like clearly that's the 779 00:50:51,939 --> 00:50:53,573 wrong reasons, you know. 780 00:50:53,575 --> 00:50:59,181 The worst thing about having a film crew is if it changes your mindset. 781 00:51:09,290 --> 00:51:12,227 I think Alex is almost ready to do it. 782 00:51:12,460 --> 00:51:15,497 He just wants to take a few more practice laps. 783 00:51:16,531 --> 00:51:22,036 And we're just trying to figure out all of our camera positions. 784 00:51:27,274 --> 00:51:31,946 I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile. 785 00:51:32,480 --> 00:51:36,681 We wanna film it well, but it's about not getting in his way and making sure 786 00:51:36,683 --> 00:51:39,654 he has the experience he wants. 787 00:51:44,459 --> 00:51:47,292 The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something 788 00:51:47,294 --> 00:51:49,194 that would kill him. 789 00:51:49,196 --> 00:51:50,462 Is it gonna be the drone? 790 00:51:50,464 --> 00:51:51,531 Is it gonna be one of the ropes? 791 00:51:51,533 --> 00:51:55,203 Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock? 792 00:51:58,705 --> 00:52:01,373 The idea of falling off is, you know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that, 793 00:52:01,375 --> 00:52:05,544 but it's like kind of okay if it's just by myself. 794 00:52:05,546 --> 00:52:08,480 But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right in front of my friends, 'cause that's like, 795 00:52:08,482 --> 00:52:11,719 that's kind of messed up. 796 00:52:12,120 --> 00:52:15,424 Where are you comfortable with us being essentially? 797 00:52:16,091 --> 00:52:19,025 Well, do you have like. 798 00:52:19,027 --> 00:52:20,359 The traverse into it? 799 00:52:20,361 --> 00:52:21,993 - Uh-hmm. - Yeah. 800 00:52:21,995 --> 00:52:25,196 And then a, just a camera above, sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially. 801 00:52:25,198 --> 00:52:27,699 - Yeah. -It's distracting. - Yeah, it's distracting. 802 00:52:27,701 --> 00:52:30,703 Well, it's not just distracting, but it's also like, you know, 803 00:52:30,705 --> 00:52:34,276 nobody wants to see that, I don't know. 804 00:52:36,210 --> 00:52:40,279 Like, yeah, I don't, yeah, it's better not to. 805 00:52:40,281 --> 00:52:42,484 Some things you're like, meh. 806 00:52:43,116 --> 00:52:47,022 Yeah, okay. 807 00:52:49,156 --> 00:52:52,091 So should I rally into the valley and try to like round out plans? 808 00:52:52,093 --> 00:52:54,261 Yeah, yeah. 809 00:52:58,098 --> 00:53:00,766 Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge. 810 00:53:00,768 --> 00:53:05,504 The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably. 811 00:53:05,506 --> 00:53:06,739 - 8:05? - Okay. 812 00:53:06,741 --> 00:53:08,841 You don't want it to be sunny when you get to the crux, 813 00:53:08,843 --> 00:53:12,111 and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem, 814 00:53:12,113 --> 00:53:14,446 and it's fall so in order to beat the sun, 815 00:53:14,448 --> 00:53:16,781 you basically have to start in the dark. 816 00:53:16,783 --> 00:53:21,390 I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically. 817 00:53:29,263 --> 00:53:30,462 I don't know. 818 00:53:30,464 --> 00:53:33,035 I'm starting to get kind of psyched. 819 00:53:35,469 --> 00:53:38,304 The moment of just letting go to it is in some ways the most peaceful because 820 00:53:38,306 --> 00:53:39,871 then it's like you just do your thing. 821 00:53:39,873 --> 00:53:43,044 There's no more stress, there's no more anxiety, there's no fear, whatever, 822 00:53:43,544 --> 00:53:45,777 you just go up and do it. 823 00:53:45,779 --> 00:53:49,084 I put on my tight shoes today, it's like very exciting. 824 00:53:49,984 --> 00:53:53,319 It would be, like, it would be like a samurai pulling out his favorite sword, 825 00:53:53,321 --> 00:53:54,719 you know like, 826 00:53:54,721 --> 00:53:56,654 "Oh, my gosh," you know, and now I'm like, 827 00:53:56,656 --> 00:53:59,257 "Oh, time for the, the finely crafted blade." 828 00:53:59,259 --> 00:54:02,363 So stoked. I like sinking into it. 829 00:54:02,964 --> 00:54:08,400 It's, it goes with the Jedi thing, the samurai with the, and then I just 830 00:54:08,402 --> 00:54:10,069 started taking Ibuprofen. 831 00:54:10,071 --> 00:54:13,271 I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like, I think my foot's gonna be pretty good. 832 00:54:13,473 --> 00:54:16,678 Yeah, what does Sanni say when you talk to her about it? 833 00:54:16,977 --> 00:54:18,544 Um, I mean I haven't talked to her that much. 834 00:54:18,546 --> 00:54:20,179 She's been, like, asking a lot of questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?" 835 00:54:20,181 --> 00:54:24,783 And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see." 836 00:54:24,785 --> 00:54:28,355 You know, the fewer people know anything, the better really. 837 00:54:30,524 --> 00:54:33,826 I had a dream and you were limping and you were like, had caught, 838 00:54:33,828 --> 00:54:38,297 had like made the exact same fall and fallen on your ankle in the exact same way. 839 00:54:38,299 --> 00:54:39,864 That's really nice, San San. 840 00:54:39,866 --> 00:54:41,333 It was like tragic. 841 00:54:41,335 --> 00:54:42,567 I love hearing stories about that. 842 00:54:42,569 --> 00:54:45,538 - I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh. - I hope that didn't happen." 843 00:54:45,540 --> 00:54:47,940 That's, that's really nice. 844 00:54:47,942 --> 00:54:49,808 Um, what is your, is your daypack? 845 00:54:49,810 --> 00:54:51,576 They're bringing it up there for you and Peter? 846 00:54:51,578 --> 00:54:53,545 Um, no. 847 00:54:53,547 --> 00:54:56,181 For me tomorrow, probably. 848 00:54:56,183 --> 00:54:58,917 For on the mountain? 849 00:54:58,919 --> 00:55:00,920 Um, for the summit, yeah. 850 00:55:00,922 --> 00:55:03,489 Hmm, you and Peter are gonna try and do the whole thing? 851 00:55:03,491 --> 00:55:06,357 Uh, no, Peter won't be here for a couple of days probably. 852 00:55:06,359 --> 00:55:08,560 Oh, who are you climbing with tomorrow? 853 00:55:08,562 --> 00:55:11,529 Um, yeah, we'll just see. 854 00:55:11,531 --> 00:55:13,567 Oh, okay, okay. 855 00:55:16,703 --> 00:55:20,239 Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who 856 00:55:20,241 --> 00:55:21,739 you're climbing with? 857 00:55:21,741 --> 00:55:24,375 Um, well, I'm not like not telling you, but yeah. 858 00:55:24,377 --> 00:55:25,643 Whoa, Alex. 859 00:55:25,645 --> 00:55:27,879 - Whoa. - Whoa. -Whoa. 860 00:55:27,881 --> 00:55:29,248 How do you feel? 861 00:55:29,250 --> 00:55:32,484 I'm, you know, I mean, excited. 862 00:55:32,486 --> 00:55:35,554 That's really exciting. Is it that feeling when you're like... 863 00:55:35,556 --> 00:55:37,855 So exciting I'm gonna go right back to my book. 864 00:55:37,857 --> 00:55:40,361 Where you're like, no, I'm not reading it. 865 00:55:41,629 --> 00:55:42,928 When did you decide? 866 00:55:42,930 --> 00:55:44,429 When did you decide to do it tomorrow? 867 00:55:44,431 --> 00:55:47,602 No, just, you know, uh, yesterday or the day before or something. 868 00:55:48,169 --> 00:55:51,339 Hmm, I'm processing. 869 00:56:16,864 --> 00:56:19,897 I wanna, like I wanna have this more, like, holistic approach that you have where 870 00:56:19,899 --> 00:56:21,132 you're like "Well, we're all gonna die, 871 00:56:21,134 --> 00:56:23,636 like might as well do what we wanna do while we're here and 872 00:56:23,638 --> 00:56:27,942 it's okay when people die," but I feel like I want you to meet me halfway 873 00:56:29,576 --> 00:56:34,248 and when you solo to take me into the equation 874 00:56:35,415 --> 00:56:36,681 and then I think you said... 875 00:56:36,683 --> 00:56:39,486 Is there a question? -Some, there's going to be. -Okay. 876 00:56:39,886 --> 00:56:42,788 Um, would putting me into the equation actually ever change anything? 877 00:56:42,790 --> 00:56:45,826 Would you actually make decisions differently? 878 00:56:46,194 --> 00:56:50,966 If I had some kind of obligation to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah, 879 00:56:51,265 --> 00:56:53,332 obviously I'd have to give up soloing and, um. 880 00:56:53,334 --> 00:56:56,935 Was me asking you, do you see that as an obligation now? 881 00:56:56,937 --> 00:56:58,636 ...Uh, no, no. 882 00:56:58,638 --> 00:57:00,306 Oh. 883 00:57:00,308 --> 00:57:05,911 No, but I appreciate your concerns and I, you know, I respect that, but, but I, 884 00:57:05,913 --> 00:57:08,047 in no way, feel obligated, no. 885 00:57:08,049 --> 00:57:09,480 To maximize lifetime? 886 00:57:09,482 --> 00:57:12,553 No, no, I don't know. 887 00:57:14,122 --> 00:57:18,759 Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer," I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't. 888 00:57:19,893 --> 00:57:21,694 You know, I'm already doing my best. 889 00:57:21,696 --> 00:57:23,862 So I could just, like, not do certain things, but then you have, like, 890 00:57:23,864 --> 00:57:26,598 weird simmering resentment because it's things that you love most in life 891 00:57:26,600 --> 00:57:28,567 have now been squashed. 892 00:57:28,569 --> 00:57:31,506 You know what I mean? 893 00:57:45,886 --> 00:57:49,721 - What time is it? -3:30. - Oh. 894 00:57:49,723 --> 00:57:52,623 I just woke up one minute before my alarm. 895 00:57:52,625 --> 00:57:55,330 Yeah, you woke up before or after? 896 00:57:56,529 --> 00:57:59,633 One minute before. 897 00:58:16,082 --> 00:58:19,653 It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection. 898 00:58:22,390 --> 00:58:25,750 And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform. 899 00:58:29,562 --> 00:58:32,563 It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time 900 00:58:32,565 --> 00:58:35,002 in human history. 901 00:58:49,417 --> 00:58:52,721 Let's hope it's a low gravity day. 902 00:58:54,922 --> 00:58:57,556 Bye, Huck, see you at the ground. 903 00:58:57,558 --> 00:59:00,728 - Meet you in the ground. - See you, buddy. 904 00:59:27,687 --> 00:59:30,991 This sucks. I don't wanna be here. 905 00:59:36,464 --> 00:59:39,433 I'm over it. 906 00:59:39,966 --> 00:59:41,098 What happened? 907 00:59:41,100 --> 00:59:43,569 I cheated on the slab down there. 908 00:59:43,571 --> 00:59:45,069 Might as well radio it. 909 00:59:45,071 --> 00:59:47,841 Do you wanna talk to him? 910 00:59:49,076 --> 00:59:51,743 I don't even know what to say, it's, like, kind of embarrassing. 911 00:59:51,745 --> 00:59:53,946 Uh, hey, whoever's on the radio, this is Alex. 912 00:59:53,948 --> 00:59:56,750 Um, I think I'm bailing. 913 00:59:58,718 --> 01:00:00,518 Wait, could you repeat? 914 01:00:00,520 --> 01:00:02,788 I think he's bailing from heart. 915 01:00:02,790 --> 01:00:05,826 Bailing from heart, that's correct. 916 01:00:09,129 --> 01:00:11,866 It's kind of disturbing. 917 01:00:16,102 --> 01:00:19,004 Yeah, I wonder what it was. 918 01:00:19,006 --> 01:00:21,839 I don't know if I can try with everybody watching. 919 01:00:21,841 --> 01:00:23,674 It's too scary. 920 01:00:23,676 --> 01:00:26,613 Just can't, like, try for real. 921 01:00:40,794 --> 01:00:43,929 - Oh, my gosh. -Good morning. - What are you doing? 922 01:00:43,931 --> 01:00:45,230 Oh, I bailed. 923 01:00:45,232 --> 01:00:46,797 You bailed, oh? 924 01:00:46,799 --> 01:00:48,000 Yeah, it's chilly outside. 925 01:00:48,002 --> 01:00:49,667 It's chilly, okay. 926 01:00:49,669 --> 01:00:51,772 Okay. 927 01:00:52,540 --> 01:00:53,605 What's going on? 928 01:00:53,607 --> 01:00:58,213 Well, not much. 929 01:00:58,413 --> 01:00:59,612 What's up? 930 01:00:59,614 --> 01:01:01,712 Oh, I just, I went up to Free Blast and I was, like, nah, 931 01:01:01,714 --> 01:01:03,248 I'm not gonna' do it. But... 932 01:01:03,250 --> 01:01:04,716 Good for you. 933 01:01:04,718 --> 01:01:06,083 Yeah, well, it's just a little weird, you know? 934 01:01:06,085 --> 01:01:07,819 - Yup. - Yeah. -No. 935 01:01:07,821 --> 01:01:11,823 Right, I mean there's just too many random, random folks about and stuff, whatever. 936 01:01:11,825 --> 01:01:13,158 Uh-hmm, yeah. 937 01:01:13,160 --> 01:01:15,928 But, like, basically I did the first half of the first slab. 938 01:01:15,930 --> 01:01:17,263 Uh-hmm. 939 01:01:17,265 --> 01:01:19,665 And then, uh, and then I just was like, "Oh, I don't know." 940 01:01:19,667 --> 01:01:20,866 And my feet. 941 01:01:20,868 --> 01:01:22,301 Right, you made the perfect decision. 942 01:01:22,303 --> 01:01:23,868 I don't know though, I'm just like. 943 01:01:23,870 --> 01:01:25,069 Yeah. 944 01:01:25,071 --> 01:01:27,138 But now it all has to drag on longer, I'm like. 945 01:01:27,140 --> 01:01:30,007 You, yeah, I mean, you never have to go for it. 946 01:01:30,009 --> 01:01:30,942 You can just. 947 01:01:30,944 --> 01:01:32,911 Well, I just need it to end, you know. 948 01:01:32,913 --> 01:01:34,346 Yeah, yeah, all the... 949 01:01:34,348 --> 01:01:36,248 Yeah, you know what I'm talking about. 950 01:01:36,250 --> 01:01:38,753 The circus surrounding you. 951 01:01:42,622 --> 01:01:45,926 I just can't imagine, I wonder if he got nervous. 952 01:01:47,294 --> 01:01:49,928 Is that possible? 953 01:01:49,930 --> 01:01:51,832 Oh, man. 954 01:01:52,165 --> 01:01:55,067 There's a lot of things that I don't totally understand about him. 955 01:01:55,069 --> 01:01:56,301 You know? 956 01:01:56,303 --> 01:01:57,669 Yeah, I know. 957 01:01:57,671 --> 01:02:01,975 I mean in some ways it'd be kind of reassuring that Spock has nerves. 958 01:02:13,219 --> 01:02:15,821 It was the first time I've ever gone up on something like real and 959 01:02:15,823 --> 01:02:17,623 then not done it. 960 01:02:17,625 --> 01:02:22,830 But it's also the first time I've ever gone up on something real with people all watching. 961 01:02:23,096 --> 01:02:26,701 By myself, I maybe would have just, like, persevered, I don't know, 962 01:02:27,268 --> 01:02:30,902 maybe I just suck, but, 963 01:02:30,904 --> 01:02:34,275 you know, at least I've like, at least I've tried. 964 01:02:57,131 --> 01:02:59,067 Thanks for meeting us again. 965 01:03:02,770 --> 01:03:06,672 It's funny, it always has a certain smell in here, and I wonder if it's 966 01:03:06,674 --> 01:03:08,105 the paint or the. 967 01:03:08,107 --> 01:03:10,611 Yeah, it's the fresh paint. 968 01:03:10,978 --> 01:03:13,948 Dining room with probably also bookshelves. 969 01:03:15,181 --> 01:03:16,781 Wait, so what am, what am I signing? 970 01:03:16,783 --> 01:03:19,051 "Buyers of unit approves the home inspection." 971 01:03:19,053 --> 01:03:24,188 Yeah, Alex told me I get one furniture question a day. 972 01:03:24,190 --> 01:03:26,158 I've always thought that I ought to buy a house, 973 01:03:26,160 --> 01:03:29,761 just haven't quite had the energy to make it all happen myself. 974 01:03:29,763 --> 01:03:32,330 I think Sanni will be stoked to have a place to live and there's so much 975 01:03:32,332 --> 01:03:34,835 climbing all around Vegas. 976 01:03:35,303 --> 01:03:40,642 Big sectional here and chair or like sofa and two chairs. 977 01:03:43,377 --> 01:03:46,080 Potential, like, bar area. 978 01:03:47,747 --> 01:03:49,380 I would just sleep straight on the carpet. 979 01:03:49,382 --> 01:03:51,652 It'd be like. 980 01:03:58,892 --> 01:04:02,993 Alex was a huge jerk watching me struggle with the tape measure, 981 01:04:02,995 --> 01:04:06,031 being an asshole standing by commenting on how stupid I look, 982 01:04:06,033 --> 01:04:10,335 but not actually offering to help or be productive or kind in any way. 983 01:04:10,337 --> 01:04:13,170 And so now it's all gone to shit. 984 01:04:13,172 --> 01:04:16,276 Yeah, you're asking about our domestic bliss, it's nonexistent. 985 01:04:17,111 --> 01:04:19,944 You're so angry, but it's cracking, it's cracking. 986 01:04:19,946 --> 01:04:21,145 It's not cracking. 987 01:04:21,147 --> 01:04:22,413 Yeah, it is, it's cracking. 988 01:04:22,415 --> 01:04:24,015 No, it's not, I'm still angry. 989 01:04:24,017 --> 01:04:25,317 I can tell you're cracking. 990 01:04:25,319 --> 01:04:26,851 I'm not cracking. 991 01:04:26,853 --> 01:04:28,420 But you're not that angry, you're cracking. 992 01:04:28,422 --> 01:04:30,087 I'm not cracking. 993 01:04:30,089 --> 01:04:32,156 This is firm resolve of hatred. 994 01:04:32,158 --> 01:04:34,361 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 995 01:04:35,763 --> 01:04:38,966 Oh, boy. 996 01:04:40,167 --> 01:04:42,900 That one seems very big and very wide. 997 01:04:42,902 --> 01:04:44,439 Oh. 998 01:04:46,172 --> 01:04:48,810 Whoa, that seems really deep. 999 01:04:50,343 --> 01:04:52,042 We should just ask somebody. 1000 01:04:52,044 --> 01:04:53,344 Hmm, I know. 1001 01:04:53,346 --> 01:04:54,779 Let's keep looking for the smaller ones. 1002 01:04:54,781 --> 01:04:56,114 Oh, this is the $400, that's. 1003 01:04:56,116 --> 01:04:57,382 That's it! 1004 01:04:57,384 --> 01:04:58,549 That's it, that's our jam. 1005 01:04:58,551 --> 01:05:00,051 This is actually, like, kind of perfect. 1006 01:05:00,053 --> 01:05:02,957 This is like so adequate. 1007 01:05:05,158 --> 01:05:06,525 We have a fridge! 1008 01:05:06,527 --> 01:05:09,464 - Hmm. - Yay! -That success. 1009 01:05:09,997 --> 01:05:11,529 Is it possible? 1010 01:05:11,531 --> 01:05:17,071 We had like a sort of a rough patch since Yosemite, where, I don't know, 1011 01:05:17,837 --> 01:05:21,808 Alex isn't super good about putting a name to how he's feeling. 1012 01:05:22,042 --> 01:05:24,842 So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but I don't really know why and I'm not gonna 1013 01:05:24,844 --> 01:05:27,314 take the time to figure it out." 1014 01:05:27,848 --> 01:05:30,882 I'm patient, but I also have self-respect. 1015 01:05:30,884 --> 01:05:34,956 And then, you know, the second that I start being mad, he's just like "foom." 1016 01:05:38,357 --> 01:05:39,924 How do you make coffee? 1017 01:05:39,926 --> 01:05:42,426 You need like a filter. 1018 01:05:42,428 --> 01:05:46,130 Definitely my relationship with Sanni is, like, the most healthy and stable 1019 01:05:46,132 --> 01:05:48,301 relationship I've ever had. 1020 01:05:48,634 --> 01:05:51,037 Oh, look at that, the only thing in the cupboard. 1021 01:05:51,638 --> 01:05:53,437 Certainly more communicative. 1022 01:05:53,439 --> 01:05:55,940 Even Sanni over the year and a half we've been dating is like, 1023 01:05:55,942 --> 01:05:57,975 "Wow, you've really blossomed." 1024 01:05:57,977 --> 01:05:59,645 Well, that's not really promising. 1025 01:05:59,647 --> 01:06:02,480 And you think you put the coffee in there and then you push the water through it? 1026 01:06:02,482 --> 01:06:03,848 I don't how to, um. 1027 01:06:03,850 --> 01:06:06,250 Hello, oh, my gosh, wow! 1028 01:06:06,252 --> 01:06:07,919 Oh, like, how's, why? 1029 01:06:07,921 --> 01:06:09,353 Is this what it is to be, um, a homeowner? 1030 01:06:09,355 --> 01:06:11,556 You get breakfast and coffee made for you every day? 1031 01:06:11,558 --> 01:06:14,192 I don't, I don't understand the, do you put the coffee in here and 1032 01:06:14,194 --> 01:06:15,259 then put the water to it? 1033 01:06:15,261 --> 01:06:16,493 It's really complicated. 1034 01:06:16,495 --> 01:06:19,200 But she sees things in a different way. 1035 01:06:19,399 --> 01:06:22,869 For Sanni the point of life is like happiness. 1036 01:06:23,069 --> 01:06:27,007 To be with people that make you feel fulfilled and to have a good time. 1037 01:06:27,308 --> 01:06:30,344 For me it's all about performance. 1038 01:06:30,777 --> 01:06:34,849 The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. 1039 01:06:35,049 --> 01:06:38,486 Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. 1040 01:06:40,587 --> 01:06:44,525 You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy. 1041 01:06:45,959 --> 01:06:50,397 You never wanna feel like you're getting in the way of someone's goal. 1042 01:06:51,265 --> 01:06:56,069 And it's really hard for me to grasp why he wants this. 1043 01:06:57,904 --> 01:07:02,576 But it's his dream and he obviously still really wants it. 1044 01:07:06,379 --> 01:07:09,547 It's about being a warrior. 1045 01:07:09,549 --> 01:07:12,549 It doesn't matter about the cause necessarily. 1046 01:07:12,551 --> 01:07:16,056 This is your path and you will pursue it with excellence. 1047 01:07:18,091 --> 01:07:21,027 You face your fear because your goal demands it. 1048 01:07:22,361 --> 01:07:26,200 That is the goddamn warrior spirit. 1049 01:07:26,832 --> 01:07:30,437 I think that the free soloing mentality is pretty close to warrior culture, 1050 01:07:31,404 --> 01:07:35,942 where you give something 100% focus because your life depends on it. 1051 01:08:06,239 --> 01:08:10,741 The move I gave up on in the fall was a right foot on this little edge right here, 1052 01:08:10,743 --> 01:08:15,015 and I basically just have to like stand on the right foot and just trust it. 1053 01:08:15,216 --> 01:08:18,283 And I was like, "I don't really wanna have my whole life depend on like standing 1054 01:08:18,285 --> 01:08:21,255 on this one right foot." 1055 01:08:22,522 --> 01:08:25,359 But maybe I can find another way. 1056 01:08:31,564 --> 01:08:35,169 I think this is like kind of the business of the whole deal, 1057 01:08:36,202 --> 01:08:39,503 which is interesting because if you're climbing with a rope it's not at all, 1058 01:08:39,505 --> 01:08:42,642 but without a rope it is. 1059 01:09:11,604 --> 01:09:17,243 That's my variation, I just don't know. 1060 01:09:25,786 --> 01:09:30,524 I think that he's only comfortable climbing in front of the camera or in front of 1061 01:09:30,790 --> 01:09:34,495 any other people when he's really confident and secure. 1062 01:09:35,095 --> 01:09:38,499 And that's been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right? 1063 01:09:38,732 --> 01:09:39,931 - Yeah. - From the beginning. 1064 01:09:39,933 --> 01:09:42,667 Our being there is always going to change things. 1065 01:09:42,669 --> 01:09:46,404 What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year. 1066 01:09:46,406 --> 01:09:50,211 He didn't feel the pressure to have to do it because we were there. 1067 01:09:51,377 --> 01:09:54,715 And I really, like that to me said a lot. 1068 01:09:55,614 --> 01:09:57,718 It meant a lot. 1069 01:10:15,102 --> 01:10:18,703 Is that what you'd want, us not to film it? 1070 01:10:18,705 --> 01:10:21,239 Hmm, no. 1071 01:10:21,241 --> 01:10:24,409 I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care 1072 01:10:24,411 --> 01:10:26,110 about it being filmed. 1073 01:10:26,112 --> 01:10:27,579 You know? 1074 01:10:27,581 --> 01:10:30,181 You could put your foot down at any time, and, and, you know. 1075 01:10:30,183 --> 01:10:31,682 Yeah, I mean, I'm aware of it. 1076 01:10:31,684 --> 01:10:33,450 Like, if I want to, I just won't tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it 1077 01:10:33,452 --> 01:10:34,651 on my own terms. 1078 01:10:34,653 --> 01:10:35,919 Yeah, exactly. 1079 01:10:35,921 --> 01:10:38,289 Like whatever, like I mean that's obviously on the table. 1080 01:10:38,291 --> 01:10:40,458 But obviously that would hose everybody, you know? 1081 01:10:40,460 --> 01:10:41,558 Yeah. 1082 01:10:41,560 --> 01:10:42,893 If you woke up tomorrow and you were like, 1083 01:10:42,895 --> 01:10:44,161 "You know what, screw all of this, 1084 01:10:44,163 --> 01:10:46,530 I just don't care enough, like I don't feel good enough." 1085 01:10:46,532 --> 01:10:48,033 You know, but that's like, yeah, 1086 01:10:48,035 --> 01:10:50,235 I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away. 1087 01:10:50,237 --> 01:10:55,176 But it's like, you know, I mean, you know, I don't want to. 1088 01:11:07,653 --> 01:11:11,356 Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation, 1089 01:11:11,358 --> 01:11:14,195 a higher level of confidence basically. 1090 01:11:14,394 --> 01:11:17,728 I need to like dial it in so much that, you know, it doesn't matter if there's 1091 01:11:17,730 --> 01:11:20,431 like a stadium of people watching me because it's so easy for me that I'm just like, 1092 01:11:20,433 --> 01:11:22,703 "Check this out." And just do it. 1093 01:11:24,136 --> 01:11:27,640 Pitch one, stay left towards the top, splitter, it feels more secure. 1094 01:11:28,675 --> 01:11:31,642 Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet, 1095 01:11:31,644 --> 01:11:33,277 right hand to the last under cling. 1096 01:11:33,279 --> 01:11:34,945 Eight, easy romp. Go fast. 1097 01:11:34,947 --> 01:11:38,283 Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks. 1098 01:11:38,285 --> 01:11:42,186 Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner, key left-hand pinch thing, 1099 01:11:42,188 --> 01:11:45,757 right foot back step on the lower edge, left foot faced against the wall, stand up. 1100 01:11:45,759 --> 01:11:49,663 Left hand to the huge ear jug thing, switch the feet, match the big jug, 1101 01:11:50,095 --> 01:11:53,597 left foot jams into the crack, then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the 1102 01:11:53,599 --> 01:11:57,235 jug, left hand goes into this flared slot thing, which you can either fist jam or hand 1103 01:11:57,237 --> 01:11:59,536 jam, either way, it's like a flare jam in the slot. 1104 01:11:59,538 --> 01:12:03,473 Sag down onto it, right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull. 1105 01:12:03,475 --> 01:12:06,610 Right foot sinks low to a flat edge, left foot steps through to an edge, 1106 01:12:06,612 --> 01:12:10,347 right foot back steps really high so you can sag your weight around the corner 1107 01:12:10,349 --> 01:12:11,915 without having to swing. 1108 01:12:11,917 --> 01:12:14,785 Left foot out to the big horn, right hand through to a little finger pocket, 1109 01:12:14,787 --> 01:12:17,955 you go left foot out to an edge around the corner, you can actually push all the way 1110 01:12:17,957 --> 01:12:20,357 into the corner, then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat, 1111 01:12:20,359 --> 01:12:22,060 like a small crimp. 1112 01:12:22,062 --> 01:12:24,561 Left hand to the other under cling, switch your feet on the rail and then just reach 1113 01:12:24,563 --> 01:12:26,866 through the jugs, and then it's done. 1114 01:12:27,099 --> 01:12:31,436 The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet, "trust" underline, 1115 01:12:31,438 --> 01:12:33,704 double exclamation point, period. 1116 01:12:33,706 --> 01:12:36,576 Autopilot. Period. 1117 01:12:56,528 --> 01:12:59,563 I mean, you know, it's not surprising that Ueli died. 1118 01:12:59,565 --> 01:13:03,267 Considering he's always doing crazy dangerous things, but I kind of thought 1119 01:13:03,269 --> 01:13:05,939 he was gonna survive. 1120 01:13:08,041 --> 01:13:13,444 Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs that you just kind of squeak out once. 1121 01:13:13,446 --> 01:13:16,850 You know I've always tried not to. 1122 01:13:17,050 --> 01:13:19,917 But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like, 1123 01:13:19,919 --> 01:13:22,552 "Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes that I just need to go squeak 1124 01:13:22,554 --> 01:13:25,692 out once and just like make sure it's my day." 1125 01:13:26,292 --> 01:13:29,729 You know, obviously it wasn't his day. 1126 01:13:38,904 --> 01:13:42,440 After Ueli died, it's interesting with Alex, how he justifies all that 1127 01:13:42,442 --> 01:13:44,745 stuff away so quickly. 1128 01:13:45,345 --> 01:13:47,578 He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he's like 1129 01:13:47,580 --> 01:13:50,017 "Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen." 1130 01:13:53,952 --> 01:13:56,521 I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this. 1131 01:13:56,523 --> 01:13:58,489 And I was like, "What if you die? 1132 01:13:58,491 --> 01:14:02,026 Like what if you die just like Ueli died?" 1133 01:14:02,028 --> 01:14:05,963 Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship and they 1134 01:14:05,965 --> 01:14:08,633 would climb together. 1135 01:14:08,635 --> 01:14:13,003 Alex said at one point, "Well, what did she expect?" 1136 01:14:13,005 --> 01:14:16,743 And I got, I was like, "What do you mean what did she expect?" 1137 01:14:17,577 --> 01:14:23,483 I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex! And I don't expect that." 1138 01:14:23,983 --> 01:14:27,418 Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of 1139 01:14:27,420 --> 01:14:32,557 the most likely to die, but I know he's gonna do it. 1140 01:14:32,559 --> 01:14:36,330 So I'd like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can. 1141 01:14:38,564 --> 01:14:39,799 Oh, shit. 1142 01:14:40,132 --> 01:14:44,134 If he went to solo it and fell and died, and I hadn't helped him prepare 1143 01:14:44,136 --> 01:14:45,703 that would be harder for me. 1144 01:14:45,705 --> 01:14:48,740 Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of the people that's gonna be able to do 1145 01:14:48,742 --> 01:14:51,612 that the best with him and so, I should. 1146 01:14:59,486 --> 01:15:03,523 He said he's feeling tinges of, of like game time. 1147 01:15:05,157 --> 01:15:07,861 I think there's a chance he goes tomorrow. 1148 01:15:11,898 --> 01:15:15,967 They are remote cameras, because we wanna stay out of Alex's 1149 01:15:15,969 --> 01:15:17,938 line of sight when he's doing it. 1150 01:15:20,806 --> 01:15:23,607 Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong. 1151 01:15:23,609 --> 01:15:26,346 Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call? 1152 01:15:27,746 --> 01:15:30,013 The easiest thing would just be 911. 1153 01:15:30,015 --> 01:15:33,786 And that we will get kicked into gear and tell them what you know. 1154 01:15:34,187 --> 01:15:35,520 A climber. 1155 01:15:35,522 --> 01:15:37,454 Yeah. 1156 01:15:37,456 --> 01:15:40,526 All right, no mistakes tomorrow. 1157 01:15:51,004 --> 01:15:55,071 I'm worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know, 1158 01:15:55,073 --> 01:15:58,978 like Alex's existence will be over. 1159 01:16:00,746 --> 01:16:04,714 I was like, "Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and 1160 01:16:04,716 --> 01:16:08,455 I have to realize that that is a real possibility." 1161 01:16:12,892 --> 01:16:14,862 Oh, God. 1162 01:16:24,571 --> 01:16:28,004 Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye? 1163 01:16:28,006 --> 01:16:30,775 - Oh, is it time? -Yeah. - Oh. 1164 01:16:30,777 --> 01:16:33,714 But you don't have to stand up, but you have to sit up. 1165 01:16:34,081 --> 01:16:37,718 Oh, you could've just left me. 1166 01:16:39,117 --> 01:16:42,789 No, no, I'm never gonna go. 1167 01:16:43,755 --> 01:16:46,022 Okay, drive safe. 1168 01:16:46,024 --> 01:16:49,662 Ciao, see you later! 1169 01:17:05,778 --> 01:17:08,012 I mean, I didn't ask her to leave. 1170 01:17:08,014 --> 01:17:09,713 I mean, I would never ask her to leave. 1171 01:17:09,715 --> 01:17:14,685 But, you know, I think she kind of understands that, that it's probably easier for 1172 01:17:14,687 --> 01:17:17,858 me if she's gone. 1173 01:17:19,826 --> 01:17:22,560 I don't, I, the whole like saying goodbye thing I'm like 1174 01:17:22,562 --> 01:17:25,629 "I'll probably see her in like five days or something." 1175 01:17:25,631 --> 01:17:28,134 It's not like goodbye, it's just goodbye for a few days. 1176 01:17:33,840 --> 01:17:37,275 You know, I mean there's just that like weird thought of like, 1177 01:17:37,277 --> 01:17:41,081 don't freaking let that be our last hug or whatever. 1178 01:17:45,785 --> 01:17:49,755 You know, like I shouldn't be having that thought... 1179 01:17:53,859 --> 01:17:57,497 of like "What if something happens? 1180 01:17:57,764 --> 01:18:01,034 Like what if I don't see him again?" 1181 01:18:02,568 --> 01:18:05,636 You know, like, "Why do you wanna do this? 1182 01:18:05,638 --> 01:18:09,142 Like it's a totally crazy goal." 1183 01:19:43,336 --> 01:19:45,136 Hey, Jimmy, do you copy? 1184 01:19:45,138 --> 01:19:47,274 This is Jimmy. 1185 01:19:49,242 --> 01:19:51,712 He just started climbing. 1186 01:20:29,381 --> 01:20:32,249 It is so slippery right there. 1187 01:20:32,251 --> 01:20:34,121 This is where he bailed. 1188 01:21:32,411 --> 01:21:36,246 Mikey, do you copy? This is Jimmy. 1189 01:21:36,248 --> 01:21:38,449 Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey. 1190 01:21:38,451 --> 01:21:41,855 Can you let me know when he's through the slab pitch? 1191 01:21:42,988 --> 01:21:45,222 He's through the slab pitch. 1192 01:21:45,224 --> 01:21:47,357 He's through it? 1193 01:21:47,359 --> 01:21:49,996 Yup, he's almost at half dollar. 1194 01:21:50,528 --> 01:21:52,933 He's moving fast. 1195 01:21:54,067 --> 01:21:58,270 Yes, Jimmy, he is of course ahead of schedule. 1196 01:22:00,872 --> 01:22:02,908 So how far is he from Mammoth? 1197 01:22:04,010 --> 01:22:06,050 Doing the half dollar right now. 1198 01:22:23,261 --> 01:22:26,198 6:21 he's down climbing to Heart Ledge there's a party, 1199 01:22:27,233 --> 01:22:29,536 in a Porter Ledge still. 1200 01:22:32,337 --> 01:22:35,108 They're awake and there's, they're aware. 1201 01:22:35,707 --> 01:22:38,444 They're like "Here comes Honnold." Oh, my God. 1202 01:22:39,478 --> 01:22:42,515 A Dude in a bunny suit. 1203 01:22:46,385 --> 01:22:48,252 The person is getting up now. 1204 01:22:48,254 --> 01:22:50,253 Uh yeah, no there's a tail. 1205 01:22:50,255 --> 01:22:56,395 This person has a tail and it's either a chicken head or a bunny. 1206 01:22:56,929 --> 01:22:59,132 Oh, it's a unicorn. 1207 01:22:59,331 --> 01:23:01,468 Come on. Who does that? 1208 01:23:02,635 --> 01:23:05,238 I've never seen that on El Cap. 1209 01:23:06,037 --> 01:23:09,373 Wow, and Alex is gone. 1210 01:23:09,375 --> 01:23:12,212 Okay, so he's entering the Hollow Flake at 6:49. 1211 01:23:12,578 --> 01:23:16,215 He just did the Hollow Flake down climb and is in the Hollow Flake now. 1212 01:23:21,354 --> 01:23:25,388 And then the thing about Free Rider is that from the base of Hollow Flake 1213 01:23:25,390 --> 01:23:29,129 it's one crack system all the way to the top which is like what, 2,000 feet? 1214 01:23:31,663 --> 01:23:35,468 That's the most magnificent crack on planet earth. 1215 01:23:43,341 --> 01:23:44,741 Doug, this is Jimmy. 1216 01:23:44,743 --> 01:23:48,148 Do you know if they've radioed if he's gotten to the Monster yet? 1217 01:23:50,049 --> 01:23:51,885 Yeah, he's there now. 1218 01:24:24,684 --> 01:24:28,355 He's almost through it. 1219 01:24:41,733 --> 01:24:44,601 There, he's coming up now actually. 1220 01:24:44,603 --> 01:24:47,603 Now we see him like at the same height as the spire. 1221 01:24:47,605 --> 01:24:50,676 But you guys are all in position ready to go? 1222 01:24:51,544 --> 01:24:55,948 Yeah, Sam and I are at the bottom of the head wall. 1223 01:24:56,448 --> 01:25:00,920 My guess is he's 15 minutes from the Boulder Problem or so. 1224 01:26:35,147 --> 01:26:39,118 He just did the karate kick. 1225 01:26:40,819 --> 01:26:42,621 He's got it. 1226 01:26:47,326 --> 01:26:49,194 Oh, yeah. 1227 01:26:50,763 --> 01:26:52,596 That is way too gnarly. 1228 01:26:52,598 --> 01:26:55,402 - Oh, my God. - He did it. Jesus. 1229 01:26:57,836 --> 01:27:00,239 He just sent the boulder problem. 1230 01:27:01,273 --> 01:27:04,277 He must be so stoked. 1231 01:27:04,809 --> 01:27:07,729 I mean to have the slabs and the boulder problem behind him is monumental. 1232 01:27:12,585 --> 01:27:16,422 - Here's the Enduro huh? - Yup, this is the Enduro. 1233 01:27:52,791 --> 01:27:56,529 I can't believe you guys are actually gonna watch. 1234 01:27:56,895 --> 01:28:00,532 Oh, I don't wanna, I don't, I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no. 1235 01:28:23,589 --> 01:28:26,359 Oh, my God. 1236 01:28:34,233 --> 01:28:36,333 Yeah, that's kind of exposed right there. 1237 01:28:36,335 --> 01:28:39,572 Oh, my God, it's so exposed. 1238 01:28:39,871 --> 01:28:42,573 That arĂȘte move as he stepped around has gotta be, 1239 01:28:42,575 --> 01:28:43,941 I mean that's one of the most exposed moves 1240 01:28:43,943 --> 01:28:47,710 like anywhere on El Cap. 1241 01:28:47,712 --> 01:28:50,215 If you just step out, it all drops away. 1242 01:29:43,434 --> 01:29:45,537 Yeah, buddy. 1243 01:29:46,205 --> 01:29:49,438 Alex is having the best day of his life. 1244 01:29:49,440 --> 01:29:52,278 I don't know. Not me. 1245 01:29:52,478 --> 01:29:56,950 I'm done, yeah, no, this is it, I don't, we don't need to do this again. 1246 01:30:01,586 --> 01:30:02,754 Yeah, no. 1247 01:32:06,778 --> 01:32:09,081 It's over now. 1248 01:32:13,452 --> 01:32:18,056 Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo! 1249 01:32:19,657 --> 01:32:21,124 Oh, God. 1250 01:32:21,126 --> 01:32:23,730 Oh, God, wow. 1251 01:32:24,897 --> 01:32:28,768 Oh, my God, I can't believe what I just witnessed. 1252 01:33:07,171 --> 01:33:10,874 Oh, God. 1253 01:33:10,876 --> 01:33:13,112 Good to see you again, yay. 1254 01:33:13,912 --> 01:33:16,749 Wow! 1255 01:33:19,084 --> 01:33:21,720 So delighted. 1256 01:33:22,254 --> 01:33:25,425 That felt so good, it's freaking raged. 1257 01:33:26,291 --> 01:33:29,594 Like a gigantic weight off of my shoulders too. 1258 01:33:30,229 --> 01:33:32,899 I have to admit, I mean. 1259 01:33:33,565 --> 01:33:38,504 So delighted, what a journey. 1260 01:33:39,371 --> 01:33:44,710 Yeah, I just can't even believe after eight years of dreaming, 1261 01:33:46,912 --> 01:33:49,913 oh San-san's calling me. 1262 01:33:49,915 --> 01:33:51,681 Hello? 1263 01:33:54,752 --> 01:33:56,386 Yeah, so delighted. 1264 01:33:56,388 --> 01:33:59,222 Oh my, you're so delighted, that's putting it lightly. 1265 01:33:59,224 --> 01:34:02,258 I've like never smiled so much. Don't say anything too. 1266 01:34:02,260 --> 01:34:04,694 I wanna see it. What's that? 1267 01:34:04,696 --> 01:34:07,097 Like, I told you I wanted to see that smile. 1268 01:34:07,099 --> 01:34:08,865 Yeah, I know. 1269 01:34:08,867 --> 01:34:12,134 I've like never cried so hard and I didn't even see it coming. 1270 01:34:12,136 --> 01:34:15,774 Showing that you talk now, I was just like "Blah." 1271 01:34:16,175 --> 01:34:17,973 Yeah, no, I'm, I'm sort of at, 1272 01:34:17,975 --> 01:34:20,880 at risk of crying here too, I'm like, I feel quite emotional. 1273 01:34:21,447 --> 01:34:24,817 Yeah, no, don't cry San-san it will make me cry. 1274 01:34:26,050 --> 01:34:28,553 But Claire says cry it. 1275 01:34:28,819 --> 01:34:31,053 I think the movie would be better if I burst into tears, but I, 1276 01:34:31,055 --> 01:34:32,621 I don't really want to. 1277 01:34:32,623 --> 01:34:34,723 But, well I do want to kind of, but. 1278 01:34:34,725 --> 01:34:37,293 I'm so happy. 1279 01:34:37,295 --> 01:34:38,727 Oh, God. 1280 01:34:38,729 --> 01:34:40,829 I'm so happy. 1281 01:34:40,831 --> 01:34:42,665 Yeah. 1282 01:34:42,667 --> 01:34:45,604 I'm so happy. 1283 01:34:46,737 --> 01:34:47,971 Well, okay. 1284 01:34:47,973 --> 01:34:51,074 I'll see you, I'll see you in like six hours or something. 1285 01:34:51,076 --> 01:34:53,310 And I'll see you soon, yeah. 1286 01:34:53,312 --> 01:34:55,078 Yeah, okay, I love you. 1287 01:34:55,080 --> 01:34:56,980 Thank you so much, I appreciate you. 1288 01:34:56,982 --> 01:34:58,080 I love you too. 1289 01:34:58,082 --> 01:34:59,649 You're, you're the best. 1290 01:34:59,651 --> 01:35:01,250 And I appreciate you and I'm really proud of you. 1291 01:35:01,252 --> 01:35:02,822 Yay. 1292 01:35:04,255 --> 01:35:05,588 I don't know. 1293 01:35:05,590 --> 01:35:07,089 I don't, I don't think the mountain looked that scary this morning. 1294 01:35:07,091 --> 01:35:10,226 It's funny because it does look the same and hiking up looked the same, 1295 01:35:10,228 --> 01:35:12,361 everything just felt pretty much the same, except I just didn't have 1296 01:35:12,363 --> 01:35:14,798 much of a backpack. 1297 01:35:14,800 --> 01:35:16,999 I did, I forgot my rope and rack. 1298 01:35:17,001 --> 01:35:18,602 I felt so good. 1299 01:35:18,604 --> 01:35:21,103 I mean that's why I'm so happy that the experience was like what I hoped for. 1300 01:35:21,105 --> 01:35:23,673 I didn't compromise on any of the things that were super important to me. 1301 01:35:23,675 --> 01:35:26,045 Huh, yeah, that felt good. 1302 01:35:26,812 --> 01:35:28,611 All right. 1303 01:35:28,613 --> 01:35:31,049 So what's next, what are you gonna do Alex? 1304 01:35:31,250 --> 01:35:32,816 Mmm, I'm probably gonna hang board. 1305 01:35:32,818 --> 01:35:34,287 You're gonna hang board? 1306 01:35:34,953 --> 01:35:38,056 A normal person would probably take the afternoon off. 1307 01:35:49,635 --> 01:35:51,668 Thanks again for coming out and climbing with me. 1308 01:35:51,670 --> 01:35:53,003 I'm really proud of you. 1309 01:35:53,005 --> 01:35:55,207 Good work not plummeting to your death. 1310 01:35:56,007 --> 01:35:57,777 Really glad it's over. 1311 01:35:59,077 --> 01:36:02,882 Oh, my gosh, you're here, oh, my God! 1312 01:36:04,983 --> 01:36:08,988 Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy for you, you did it and you're done. 1313 01:36:10,956 --> 01:36:13,022 You know some of the people that have come before you, 1314 01:36:13,024 --> 01:36:15,691 they, they didn't quit while they were ahead. 1315 01:36:15,693 --> 01:36:17,093 Maybe it's good. 1316 01:36:17,095 --> 01:36:19,699 Maybe I don't need to keep charging ahead. 1317 01:36:20,198 --> 01:36:23,199 Right now there's some kid that just read about El Cap being soloed and he's like. 1318 01:36:23,201 --> 01:36:24,700 "What's bigger?" 1319 01:36:24,702 --> 01:36:26,235 Like "What's cooler?" 1320 01:36:26,237 --> 01:36:29,039 And I mean somebody's gonna think of something and it's gonna be cooler. 1321 01:36:29,041 --> 01:36:33,212 But I don't know if that will be me. Maybe, I don't know. 1322 01:36:38,707 --> 01:36:43,707 Subtitles by explosiveskull 114693

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