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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,866 --> 00:00:18,866 Subtitles by explosiveskull 2 00:01:23,507 --> 00:01:27,912 Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold. 3 00:01:31,781 --> 00:01:34,716 Here is what I don't understand. 4 00:01:34,718 --> 00:01:38,923 One little mistake, one little slip, and you fall and die. 5 00:01:40,090 --> 00:01:43,725 Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well... 6 00:01:43,727 --> 00:01:46,364 - Yeah. - Yeah. 7 00:01:47,197 --> 00:01:50,901 And I feel like anybody could conceivably die on any given day. 8 00:01:51,903 --> 00:01:56,507 Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present. 9 00:01:58,841 --> 00:02:02,614 Does it feel different to be up there without a rope? 10 00:02:03,281 --> 00:02:05,713 When you're climbing without a rope, it's obviously like 11 00:02:05,715 --> 00:02:08,417 much higher consequence, much, much higher level of focus. 12 00:02:08,419 --> 00:02:11,656 You know, it's a whole different experience. 13 00:02:12,823 --> 00:02:15,656 So it's not like I'm just pushing and pushing and pushing 14 00:02:15,658 --> 00:02:17,559 until something terrible happens. 15 00:02:17,561 --> 00:02:20,465 I don't look at it, like, with that perspective. 16 00:02:21,431 --> 00:02:24,632 But maybe that's why it's dangerous for me. 17 00:02:24,634 --> 00:02:28,772 Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff. 18 00:02:45,521 --> 00:02:47,724 Okay. 19 00:02:58,701 --> 00:03:01,102 I like to differentiate between risk and consequence. 20 00:03:01,104 --> 00:03:04,138 You know, when I'm doing these hard free solos I like to think that the risk, 21 00:03:04,140 --> 00:03:05,906 you know, the chance of me falling off is 22 00:03:05,908 --> 00:03:08,143 quite low even though the consequence is extremely high. 23 00:03:08,145 --> 00:03:10,679 And that's kind of like one of the appeals of free soloing, you know, 24 00:03:10,681 --> 00:03:14,385 to take something that seems difficult and dangerous and make it feel safe. 25 00:03:14,585 --> 00:03:18,653 So, do you think that, uh, being a rock climber has been a positive or negative 26 00:03:18,655 --> 00:03:20,454 for your dating life? 27 00:03:20,456 --> 00:03:21,822 My dating life? 28 00:03:21,824 --> 00:03:22,958 Yeah. 29 00:03:22,960 --> 00:03:25,827 I think, uh, I think overall it's been a negative. 30 00:03:25,829 --> 00:03:28,832 Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car. 31 00:03:35,438 --> 00:03:38,575 Let's talk through some of the climbing adventures you've had. 32 00:03:38,908 --> 00:03:41,643 The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress. 33 00:03:41,645 --> 00:03:44,745 When I did it, it was like, "Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking, 34 00:03:44,747 --> 00:03:46,781 kind of extreme. 35 00:03:46,783 --> 00:03:50,087 But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure. 36 00:03:50,320 --> 00:03:53,621 Well, that wasn't where you stopped, because that next challenge then 37 00:03:53,623 --> 00:03:55,826 was free soloing Half Dome. 38 00:03:56,593 --> 00:04:00,195 Half Dome was a huge step for me because it was twice as big as anything 39 00:04:00,197 --> 00:04:02,432 I'd ever soloed. 40 00:04:03,332 --> 00:04:06,868 Free soloing is so dangerous that less than 1% of people 41 00:04:06,870 --> 00:04:08,872 who climb attempt it. 42 00:04:09,439 --> 00:04:13,911 Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs, but none were tougher than this one. 43 00:04:16,547 --> 00:04:19,751 I got quite scared in some places, and then you start to panic a little bit. 44 00:04:20,084 --> 00:04:23,120 And then you have to, like, reel it all back in. 45 00:04:25,456 --> 00:04:28,526 What is next in free solo climbing? 46 00:04:28,759 --> 00:04:30,992 Well, I don't know, I mean, I've thought about El Cap, like, 47 00:04:30,994 --> 00:04:32,993 for years and every year I look at it and I'm like, 48 00:04:32,995 --> 00:04:34,596 "That's really scary." 49 00:04:34,598 --> 00:04:37,798 Um, well, I've never even wanted to really, or I've always wanted to but then 50 00:04:37,800 --> 00:04:40,604 I've always been like, "That's too scary." 51 00:04:44,240 --> 00:04:48,079 I'm aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth. 52 00:04:48,913 --> 00:04:52,613 I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid and my dad would always have a little 53 00:04:52,615 --> 00:04:55,483 cooler in the back of the car, and have our cookies in the cold milk, 54 00:04:55,485 --> 00:04:58,820 and we'd sit on these slabs above Tunnel View, which is, like, 55 00:04:58,822 --> 00:05:01,658 the most epic view of Yosemite. 56 00:05:01,891 --> 00:05:06,029 As soon as you see El Cap it's like, "Oh, there it is, pretty exciting." 57 00:05:08,932 --> 00:05:13,204 El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth. 58 00:05:55,812 --> 00:05:58,546 Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van. 59 00:05:58,548 --> 00:06:01,015 I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now because I've lived 60 00:06:01,017 --> 00:06:03,584 in it for nine years. 61 00:06:03,586 --> 00:06:06,921 My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan. 62 00:06:06,923 --> 00:06:10,224 My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school. 63 00:06:10,226 --> 00:06:12,726 There was some life insurance. 64 00:06:12,728 --> 00:06:15,663 I had just enough to dirt bag. 65 00:06:15,665 --> 00:06:19,334 Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents 66 00:06:19,336 --> 00:06:22,273 on dinner every night. 67 00:06:22,473 --> 00:06:25,606 Living in a van is great but, you know, at a certain point it'd be nice to have a 68 00:06:25,608 --> 00:06:29,145 bathroom and have, like, a shower at least. 69 00:06:35,952 --> 00:06:37,685 So you have a girlfriend now, I heard. 70 00:06:37,687 --> 00:06:39,954 - Hmm, trending towards one. - Trending towards? 71 00:06:39,956 --> 00:06:44,728 Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive about, like, you know, you have to do you. 72 00:06:45,295 --> 00:06:46,728 Yeah we'll, we'll see. 73 00:06:46,730 --> 00:06:50,332 But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life, 74 00:06:50,334 --> 00:06:52,867 you know, in terms of, like, big climbing, 75 00:06:52,869 --> 00:06:56,303 lifetime achievement deals, where you're just like, well, 76 00:06:56,305 --> 00:07:00,108 like I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady. 77 00:07:00,110 --> 00:07:02,312 At least, you know, so far. 78 00:07:04,982 --> 00:07:07,315 How many times have you climbed El Cap? 79 00:07:07,317 --> 00:07:08,817 Probably like 40 something maybe. 80 00:07:08,819 --> 00:07:13,954 - You ever free solo? -No and nobody has. - Why haven't you done it yet? 81 00:07:13,956 --> 00:07:17,295 Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know, think about it, it's freaking scary. 82 00:07:18,228 --> 00:07:22,329 I don't know, so I mean I've thought about this since 2009, like, each year since 2009, 83 00:07:22,331 --> 00:07:24,899 I've been like, "This is the year," and each year I climb it and I'm like, 84 00:07:24,901 --> 00:07:27,668 "This isn't the year, like, this is fucked," you know. 85 00:07:27,670 --> 00:07:30,171 So I'm like, "Uh." But the thing is I'll never be content, 86 00:07:30,173 --> 00:07:31,738 unless I at least put in the effort. 87 00:07:31,740 --> 00:07:34,375 Because, like, if I do all the work and I'm still like, "This is messed up," 88 00:07:34,377 --> 00:07:37,978 then maybe it's just not for me, maybe its future generation, you know. 89 00:07:37,980 --> 00:07:41,117 Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for. 90 00:07:51,327 --> 00:07:55,131 When I thought about El Cap years ago, there were question marks all over the walls. 91 00:07:55,932 --> 00:07:58,265 It's like I don't know about this pitch, I don't know about that pitch, 92 00:07:58,267 --> 00:08:00,901 like I don't know about this particular slab, there are all these things that 93 00:08:00,903 --> 00:08:04,105 seem pretty crazy to me. 94 00:08:04,107 --> 00:08:10,045 If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap, then I need a good map of what that will 95 00:08:10,047 --> 00:08:15,149 take, you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are, where they are, 96 00:08:15,151 --> 00:08:18,055 what they will entail. 97 00:08:18,555 --> 00:08:21,959 If I'm going to do it, Free Rider seems like the best route. 98 00:08:27,129 --> 00:08:28,363 Oh, hi. 99 00:08:28,365 --> 00:08:30,231 What's up, dude? 100 00:08:30,233 --> 00:08:32,199 Oh, hey. 101 00:08:32,201 --> 00:08:35,139 Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it straight onto my harness. 102 00:08:35,706 --> 00:08:37,339 So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I? 103 00:08:37,341 --> 00:08:41,475 I feel like we should do what we did before which would be you lead the, yeah, 104 00:08:41,477 --> 00:08:43,777 you lead the Freeblast. 105 00:08:43,779 --> 00:08:45,879 So, basically I'll just try to take it, like, as far as I can. 106 00:08:45,881 --> 00:08:47,884 Yeah. 107 00:08:52,456 --> 00:08:55,256 So Tommy just got here and they're going up Freerider. 108 00:08:55,258 --> 00:08:56,657 Okay. 109 00:08:56,659 --> 00:08:59,893 I'm just gonna try to shoot this pitch and the traverse pitch and then 110 00:08:59,895 --> 00:09:01,998 I'm gonna jug out like a maniac. 111 00:09:02,365 --> 00:09:03,363 Okay. 112 00:09:03,365 --> 00:09:05,199 Do we have enough line up there to do all this? 113 00:09:05,201 --> 00:09:07,437 - Yeah. - Okay. 114 00:09:16,278 --> 00:09:18,813 The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell 115 00:09:18,815 --> 00:09:21,719 is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it. 116 00:09:21,951 --> 00:09:24,486 To see what feels scary and what doesn't. 117 00:09:24,488 --> 00:09:26,521 Oh, God. 118 00:09:26,523 --> 00:09:30,124 Look at those fixed ropes the first climb. 119 00:09:32,828 --> 00:09:36,097 Tommy's been a hero of mine since I was a kid. 120 00:09:36,099 --> 00:09:38,398 I didn't technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid, 121 00:09:38,400 --> 00:09:41,304 but it was like the same deal, you know, where I was like, "Tommy's the man." 122 00:09:44,240 --> 00:09:47,778 Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap. 123 00:09:48,477 --> 00:09:51,912 Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall. 124 00:09:51,914 --> 00:09:55,215 And most of the routes that he's put up on El Cap haven't been repeated because they're, 125 00:09:55,217 --> 00:09:57,887 they're basically too hard. 126 00:09:58,822 --> 00:10:01,922 And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall which was his 127 00:10:01,924 --> 00:10:04,057 multi-year project. 128 00:10:04,059 --> 00:10:07,230 I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world. 129 00:10:17,440 --> 00:10:19,977 I've been obsessed with El Cap for years. 130 00:10:22,011 --> 00:10:25,982 El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge. 131 00:10:27,817 --> 00:10:30,951 It's 3,200 feet of sheer granite. 132 00:10:30,953 --> 00:10:33,121 Looking at it, it doesn't seem right, it doesn't seem like you 133 00:10:33,123 --> 00:10:36,527 should be able to climb it. 134 00:10:37,594 --> 00:10:40,195 I understand why Alex is obsessed. 135 00:10:40,197 --> 00:10:43,333 El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers. 136 00:10:43,567 --> 00:10:48,603 I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days 137 00:10:48,605 --> 00:10:51,875 over 16 months because they couldn't do it continuously. 138 00:10:56,913 --> 00:11:00,350 They had to drill bolts into the granite and pull themselves up. 139 00:11:00,551 --> 00:11:04,922 And then ever since then, it's been the center of the rock climbing universe. 140 00:11:09,893 --> 00:11:13,397 I've spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope. 141 00:11:14,597 --> 00:11:17,233 There's no margin for error. 142 00:11:17,433 --> 00:11:23,540 Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement, that if you don't get that 143 00:11:25,140 --> 00:11:27,275 gold medal you're gonna die. 144 00:11:27,277 --> 00:11:30,578 That's pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like. 145 00:11:30,580 --> 00:11:34,118 You have to do it perfectly. 146 00:11:37,653 --> 00:11:41,355 Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios, 147 00:11:41,357 --> 00:11:44,460 so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position, 148 00:11:45,528 --> 00:11:49,030 and more than anything just thinking about what it would feel like to, 149 00:11:49,032 --> 00:11:52,203 to be in that position without a rope. 150 00:11:53,303 --> 00:11:56,036 There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope. 151 00:11:56,038 --> 00:11:57,372 Oh, God. 152 00:11:57,374 --> 00:11:59,574 But then the idea of taking the rope away, you're just like, 153 00:11:59,576 --> 00:12:02,175 "I don't know if I'd wanna trust that little foothold. Oh, my God, 154 00:12:02,177 --> 00:12:06,347 my feet hurt so bad and I'm so pumped and my hand hurts. 155 00:12:06,349 --> 00:12:08,016 I just feel pooped. 156 00:12:08,018 --> 00:12:10,620 We're kind of getting worked. 157 00:12:11,554 --> 00:12:14,555 When you've been thinking about something for years, that's a long time to be, 158 00:12:14,557 --> 00:12:18,495 like, sort of considering an idea without, like, really talking to anybody about it. 159 00:12:18,927 --> 00:12:22,166 Especially someone like Tommy. 160 00:12:22,732 --> 00:12:25,499 When I was climbing, like, up the endurance corner and across the traverse, 161 00:12:25,501 --> 00:12:28,936 I was just looking down thinking about, I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary." 162 00:12:28,938 --> 00:12:30,071 I don't know. 163 00:12:30,073 --> 00:12:31,672 That part is just so exposed and it's pretty. 164 00:12:31,674 --> 00:12:33,708 See, that part again is like, at least you have holds though, you know. 165 00:12:33,710 --> 00:12:35,042 Yeah. 166 00:12:35,044 --> 00:12:38,246 The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it's like, 167 00:12:38,248 --> 00:12:40,681 your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know. 168 00:12:40,683 --> 00:12:43,618 Soloing is like such a weird personal activity. 169 00:12:43,620 --> 00:12:45,552 You never talk about soloing projects. 170 00:12:45,554 --> 00:12:49,223 I mean, I've done all my soloing without telling anybody, 171 00:12:49,225 --> 00:12:53,328 because I don't want any extra pressure. 172 00:12:53,330 --> 00:12:56,597 The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I get interview questions about it all the 173 00:12:56,599 --> 00:12:58,333 time, like, "Oh, would you like to do that?" 174 00:12:58,335 --> 00:12:59,434 And I've always been like, 175 00:12:59,436 --> 00:13:01,536 "No, well maybe, we'll see. You know, who knows?" 176 00:13:01,538 --> 00:13:04,575 But like in the back of your mind you're like, "Yes, for sure." 177 00:13:13,482 --> 00:13:16,483 I used to be like a super picky eater. 178 00:13:16,485 --> 00:13:21,926 When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had 179 00:13:22,525 --> 00:13:25,493 to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like, systematically introduced 180 00:13:25,495 --> 00:13:29,667 myself to vegetables, like one at a time, which worked pretty well, 181 00:13:31,033 --> 00:13:33,236 now I pretty much eat anything. 182 00:13:38,207 --> 00:13:41,376 I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um, 183 00:13:41,378 --> 00:13:43,478 mostly for environmental reasons. 184 00:13:43,480 --> 00:13:47,051 Then once I stopped I also kind of got into the ethics of it a little bit more. 185 00:13:51,587 --> 00:13:54,421 We'll just see how this comes out. 186 00:13:54,423 --> 00:13:57,025 Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who probably think that this is, like, terrible. 187 00:13:57,027 --> 00:14:00,531 I'm eating, like, canned chili and eggs. 188 00:14:03,298 --> 00:14:05,632 Growing up, I mean, I didn't like eating weird foods, 189 00:14:05,634 --> 00:14:09,369 I didn't like bugs, you know, I was just like a total tweeker. 190 00:14:09,371 --> 00:14:12,241 I guess I was quite a shy child. 191 00:14:13,143 --> 00:14:15,243 Bit of a dark soul, I think. 192 00:14:15,245 --> 00:14:17,981 Maybe melancholic is the word. 193 00:14:18,315 --> 00:14:23,117 I remember really liking to play with my Legos and play computer games and, 194 00:14:23,119 --> 00:14:26,119 uh, and then obviously once I started rock climbing I was going to the 195 00:14:26,121 --> 00:14:28,055 climbing gym all the time. 196 00:14:28,057 --> 00:14:31,626 But I didn't really have a whole lot of hobbies or interests. 197 00:14:31,628 --> 00:14:34,295 I definitely wasn't cool, you know. 198 00:14:34,297 --> 00:14:37,065 I grew up in Sacramento and the high school I went to, I was, uh, 199 00:14:37,067 --> 00:14:40,167 in an international baccalaureate program, so we were all sort of 200 00:14:40,169 --> 00:14:42,369 the intellectual kids. 201 00:14:42,371 --> 00:14:45,672 So, in a way it was fine to be sort of a dorky loner cause, you know, 202 00:14:45,674 --> 00:14:48,611 the whole program was focused around that. 203 00:14:49,412 --> 00:14:52,613 There was definitely a time when I started climbing outside more and I was just 204 00:14:52,615 --> 00:14:54,714 starting to road trip and go to campgrounds, 205 00:14:54,716 --> 00:14:57,318 but I was too afraid to talk to strangers. 206 00:14:57,320 --> 00:15:00,454 So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or just a lot of climbing by myself just 207 00:15:00,456 --> 00:15:03,793 because I didn't know anybody and I didn't wanna talk to anybody. 208 00:15:05,195 --> 00:15:07,664 It's freaking good, I've outdone myself. 209 00:15:11,234 --> 00:15:14,038 Spicy chili really adds something. 210 00:15:20,476 --> 00:15:23,344 As a kid I just love climbing trees and climbing buildings and, like, 211 00:15:23,346 --> 00:15:25,146 playing on things. 212 00:15:25,148 --> 00:15:27,718 And when I was going to school here I was also climbing on all the roofs and stuff here. 213 00:15:27,951 --> 00:15:30,118 Uh, and, uh, yeah. 214 00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:32,453 It's actually kind of intimidating talking to groups of kids. 215 00:15:32,455 --> 00:15:35,388 Like, when I was in high school I was mortified of standing in 216 00:15:35,390 --> 00:15:36,857 front of the class. 217 00:15:36,859 --> 00:15:38,758 But, like, you kind of get through it and, like, eventually you feel 218 00:15:38,760 --> 00:15:40,194 more and more comfortable. 219 00:15:40,196 --> 00:15:41,462 I don't know. 220 00:15:41,464 --> 00:15:43,263 - There's a question. - Um, yeah. 221 00:15:43,265 --> 00:15:45,499 How do you feel about being famous, just for, like, 222 00:15:45,501 --> 00:15:47,102 turning your hobby into your career? 223 00:15:47,104 --> 00:15:50,238 I mean, I think it's the best thing in life to be able to take the one thing 224 00:15:50,240 --> 00:15:53,373 you love most and have it, like, work out that you can make a living that way. 225 00:15:53,375 --> 00:15:55,609 You know, so it's nice that I now get paid to do that, yeah. 226 00:15:55,611 --> 00:15:57,814 How much money do you have? 227 00:16:00,350 --> 00:16:03,586 I've got, I've got, I've got probably like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know. 228 00:16:04,287 --> 00:16:06,387 Um, but no, like, a, a fair amount. 229 00:16:06,389 --> 00:16:11,592 Um, like, like, you know, say, like, a moderately successful dentist 230 00:16:11,594 --> 00:16:13,764 or something, probably. 231 00:16:14,029 --> 00:16:15,662 Mr. K? 232 00:16:15,664 --> 00:16:18,398 Alex, could you talk about your foundation a bit and what you're doing? 233 00:16:18,400 --> 00:16:21,804 Yeah, so, I started a non-profit, um, I guess maybe four years ago. 234 00:16:22,172 --> 00:16:25,408 Let's watch this piece of video so you're gonna get a little taste of that. 235 00:16:27,177 --> 00:16:30,710 Climbing has allowed me to travel all over the world, which has really opened my 236 00:16:30,712 --> 00:16:32,882 eyes to how the rest of the world lives. 237 00:16:33,582 --> 00:16:36,349 I mean, I see all these people, I mean they're like a billion people on Earth 238 00:16:36,351 --> 00:16:37,718 without access to power. 239 00:16:37,720 --> 00:16:39,853 And so I started my foundation sort of as an attempt to, like, 240 00:16:39,855 --> 00:16:41,455 balance the cosmic scales. 241 00:16:41,457 --> 00:16:45,358 So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a third of my income every year through the 242 00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:47,361 foundation to, like, environmental non-profits. 243 00:16:47,363 --> 00:16:49,530 I mean, so, like off-grid solar projects, things like that, like, 244 00:16:49,532 --> 00:16:52,802 things that lift people out of poverty, but also help the Earth. 245 00:17:07,817 --> 00:17:09,549 Ah, you get out. 246 00:17:09,551 --> 00:17:12,155 - Oh, hi. - Hi. 247 00:17:15,857 --> 00:17:18,394 I met Sanni, book touring in Seattle. 248 00:17:18,961 --> 00:17:22,432 And then we just have been hanging out ever since. 249 00:17:22,632 --> 00:17:25,600 I think, I think this is our very first date in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing, 250 00:17:25,602 --> 00:17:27,701 like, a very easy multi-pitch together. 251 00:17:27,703 --> 00:17:30,738 Um, you know I just took her up this big tall route because then, 252 00:17:30,740 --> 00:17:32,974 I kind of knew it would blow her mind. 253 00:17:32,976 --> 00:17:33,975 Is she a climber? 254 00:17:33,977 --> 00:17:37,245 Um, Sanni's like a little bit of a climber. 255 00:17:37,247 --> 00:17:41,552 She, she's just starting but I'd hardly characterize her as a climber. 256 00:17:42,853 --> 00:17:46,019 You see straight in front of us, there's like an depression that looks like a heart. 257 00:17:46,021 --> 00:17:46,955 Yeah. 258 00:17:46,957 --> 00:17:49,457 To the left of that, that's Freerider. 259 00:17:49,459 --> 00:17:51,992 This is like the whole valley, like, we're driving in this highway. 260 00:17:51,994 --> 00:17:53,295 Uh-hmm. 261 00:17:53,297 --> 00:17:54,429 And then this is, like, the valley loop from here to here, 262 00:17:54,431 --> 00:17:56,764 the main rocks are all, like, between here and here. 263 00:17:56,766 --> 00:17:59,903 Okay, oh, maybe I should read this. 264 00:18:00,737 --> 00:18:02,873 No. 265 00:18:03,105 --> 00:18:06,509 Alex was giving a talk in Seattle, in December last year. 266 00:18:06,742 --> 00:18:09,643 I didn't know anything about him and I showed up. 267 00:18:09,645 --> 00:18:11,746 Wait, you're wearing the same shirt in half these photos. 268 00:18:11,748 --> 00:18:12,912 I know. 269 00:18:12,914 --> 00:18:14,414 Oh, Alex. 270 00:18:14,416 --> 00:18:16,683 Well, because I don't have anybody to help me with my wardrobe. 271 00:18:16,685 --> 00:18:20,923 Oh and then, when I got my book signed, I gave him my number. 272 00:18:24,460 --> 00:18:27,730 Which was sort of a joke with a friend but then evolved. 273 00:18:28,565 --> 00:18:33,467 I just thought he was really cute but also brutally honest, 274 00:18:33,469 --> 00:18:35,635 but I'm really drawn to that. 275 00:18:35,637 --> 00:18:38,005 Whoa, look how precariously balanced it is. 276 00:18:38,007 --> 00:18:40,507 But he's also just a funny guy, he's weird. 277 00:18:40,509 --> 00:18:43,579 You know, a weird dude, and I find it interesting. 278 00:18:44,180 --> 00:18:45,946 Oh, we tree pose on the tree? 279 00:18:45,948 --> 00:18:47,146 It's not wobbling. 280 00:18:47,148 --> 00:18:49,717 It's totally wobbling, what are you talking about. 281 00:18:49,719 --> 00:18:51,852 Just for you. 282 00:18:51,854 --> 00:18:54,857 - I'm waiting. ALEX: Oh. - Okay. 283 00:18:59,528 --> 00:19:00,995 When you start getting eaten by mosquitoes, 284 00:19:00,997 --> 00:19:02,697 feel free to just start climbing. 285 00:19:02,699 --> 00:19:04,765 Just keep the Grigri on. 286 00:19:04,767 --> 00:19:06,534 I'll wait. 287 00:19:06,536 --> 00:19:09,038 Okay, whatever you're comfy with. 288 00:19:11,574 --> 00:19:13,673 Having the girlfriend in the van is awesome. 289 00:19:13,675 --> 00:19:17,545 I mean, she's cute and small and, like, livens the place up a bit, 290 00:19:17,547 --> 00:19:19,880 doesn't take up too much room. 291 00:19:19,882 --> 00:19:23,487 I mean, it's, pretty much makes life better in every way. 292 00:19:25,621 --> 00:19:28,525 Alex, you got me tight? 293 00:19:30,727 --> 00:19:33,530 This is nerve-racking. 294 00:19:41,136 --> 00:19:46,841 When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him come down the final section and the rope 295 00:19:46,843 --> 00:19:48,709 went right through the Grigri, right through my hands, 296 00:19:48,711 --> 00:19:51,746 and right through the Grigri and he dropped to the ground. 297 00:19:51,748 --> 00:19:54,084 It was my fault that I didn't watch the end of the rope. 298 00:19:55,018 --> 00:19:58,587 It was just like, "Oh, my gosh, what have I done?" 299 00:20:00,189 --> 00:20:03,023 The x-ray didn't show much, but then they took the CAT scan and then they 300 00:20:03,025 --> 00:20:04,959 said it was, like, two compression fractures and. 301 00:20:04,961 --> 00:20:07,094 But they only focused on they didn't focus on the lower. 302 00:20:07,096 --> 00:20:11,034 Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her. 303 00:20:11,233 --> 00:20:15,402 I was like, "Oh, this is bad for my climbing." But she said, 304 00:20:15,404 --> 00:20:17,805 "Is that really gonna make your life any better?" 305 00:20:17,807 --> 00:20:20,408 I was like, "No, probably not." 306 00:20:20,410 --> 00:20:23,947 This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable. 307 00:20:24,380 --> 00:20:25,779 I said, you know, 308 00:20:25,781 --> 00:20:28,882 "I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all. 309 00:20:28,884 --> 00:20:32,823 I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb." 310 00:20:33,722 --> 00:20:35,890 Exhale. 311 00:20:35,892 --> 00:20:38,926 As it turns out, compression fracture isn't too serious. 312 00:20:38,928 --> 00:20:41,796 They said that I could climb and just be careful about pain management and 313 00:20:41,798 --> 00:20:44,768 all that stuff. 314 00:20:44,968 --> 00:20:47,802 But it's just a little bit rattling. 315 00:20:47,804 --> 00:20:50,837 Because I definitely know some people who have fallen super far and survived or, 316 00:20:50,839 --> 00:20:53,507 like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay. 317 00:20:53,509 --> 00:20:57,178 And now I'm like, "I don't know, like, I don't think I'd be okay." 318 00:20:57,180 --> 00:21:00,847 And so I imagine falling free soloing or something from 50 meters up, I mean, 319 00:21:00,849 --> 00:21:03,619 I realize that my body would just explode on impact. 320 00:21:20,736 --> 00:21:23,903 In 2012, I was here for the first time and it was right before I went to 321 00:21:23,905 --> 00:21:27,743 Yosemite for the season, and that was like my best Yosemite season ever. 322 00:21:39,622 --> 00:21:41,154 What was that, Alex? 323 00:21:41,156 --> 00:21:43,157 I said you just passed halfway and, uh, the rope's actually looking 324 00:21:43,159 --> 00:21:45,962 pretty good now. 325 00:21:46,996 --> 00:21:49,930 Yeah, pretty nice rock. 326 00:21:49,932 --> 00:21:53,437 I think the climbing here in Morocco, it's good training for El Cap. 327 00:21:55,172 --> 00:21:58,738 It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get him good at moving through the mountains, 328 00:21:58,740 --> 00:22:01,677 it's gonna make him feel fit. 329 00:22:07,583 --> 00:22:11,955 Flowing through the mountains in the ways that you do with Alex is addicting. 330 00:22:15,625 --> 00:22:20,029 His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible, 331 00:22:24,232 --> 00:22:29,873 which is emotionally appealing, but for me I don't think it's the smartest thing. 332 00:22:33,542 --> 00:22:35,042 Ah! 333 00:22:35,044 --> 00:22:38,682 Climbing with Alex is, it's like a vice in a way. 334 00:22:39,749 --> 00:22:42,917 It's like smoking cigarettes with beer or something. 335 00:22:42,919 --> 00:22:46,085 It's like, I don't really wanna do it but I just, like, let myself do it sometimes 336 00:22:46,087 --> 00:22:47,287 because it's kinda nice. 337 00:22:47,289 --> 00:22:50,793 - Yeah, buddy! - Yo! 338 00:22:56,731 --> 00:22:59,699 Can you read me your journal entry for today? 339 00:22:59,701 --> 00:23:03,205 It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux, two pumped, need more fitness." 340 00:23:06,008 --> 00:23:09,910 Do you ever put things like "Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life"? 341 00:23:09,912 --> 00:23:12,145 No, not in the climbing journal. 342 00:23:12,147 --> 00:23:15,716 - Miss my dog. - No. 343 00:23:15,718 --> 00:23:17,750 - And my mom. - I don't know, none? 344 00:23:17,752 --> 00:23:20,256 - No, no. - No. -All right. 345 00:23:32,701 --> 00:23:36,970 Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at 346 00:23:36,972 --> 00:23:38,905 the bottom of the gully going into the base. 347 00:23:38,907 --> 00:23:40,341 Okay. 348 00:23:40,343 --> 00:23:42,875 And then we'll be shooting on the wall. 349 00:23:42,877 --> 00:23:45,979 So, once we pass you guys, you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically? 350 00:23:45,981 --> 00:23:47,114 Yeah. 351 00:23:47,116 --> 00:23:49,850 Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years. 352 00:23:49,852 --> 00:23:51,852 We've climbed all over the world. 353 00:23:51,854 --> 00:23:53,921 We are doing the triple link up too, right? 354 00:23:53,923 --> 00:23:55,989 I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we're gonna be 355 00:23:55,991 --> 00:23:58,295 as Cheyne says, "Yoked." 356 00:24:02,064 --> 00:24:05,099 The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers. 357 00:24:05,101 --> 00:24:07,804 The best possible crew for this kind of thing. 358 00:24:08,104 --> 00:24:10,036 And so in a way, I'm like, "This is kinda awesome." You know, 359 00:24:10,038 --> 00:24:13,576 it's kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends. 360 00:24:17,380 --> 00:24:21,015 Mikey, we should put someone right here because if you lean out you can see the 361 00:24:21,017 --> 00:24:22,882 entire freaking route. 362 00:24:22,884 --> 00:24:25,318 Then let's just put the 100 meter there and the 400 footer here. 363 00:24:25,320 --> 00:24:27,222 Doubled up. 364 00:24:27,623 --> 00:24:32,895 I've known Alex since he pretty much started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009. 365 00:24:33,695 --> 00:24:38,332 I've filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing. 366 00:24:38,334 --> 00:24:41,802 And then we've also spent a couple of winters together down in South America. 367 00:24:41,804 --> 00:24:44,371 So, uh, we, the time's added up. 368 00:24:44,373 --> 00:24:46,806 Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now. 369 00:24:46,808 --> 00:24:50,978 So, I'm scared because I don't wanna see anything happen to Alex. 370 00:24:50,980 --> 00:24:53,747 I mean, it's one of the reasons that I almost said no to this job, and, I mean, 371 00:24:53,749 --> 00:24:56,049 I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like, 372 00:24:56,051 --> 00:24:58,721 "Do we really wanna be part of this?" 373 00:25:00,056 --> 00:25:02,922 I've always been conflicted about shooting a film about free soloing 374 00:25:02,924 --> 00:25:06,226 just because it's so dangerous. 375 00:25:06,228 --> 00:25:11,431 It's hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex, soloing something that's extremely 376 00:25:11,433 --> 00:25:15,872 dangerous and you're making a film about it, which might put undue pressure on him 377 00:25:16,372 --> 00:25:20,243 to do something, and him falling through the frame to his death. 378 00:25:24,980 --> 00:25:31,184 And we have to work through that and understand that what we're doing is something that 379 00:25:31,186 --> 00:25:33,389 we can live with even in a worst-case scenario. 380 00:25:40,730 --> 00:25:43,831 It's a funny thing, people who know a little bit about climbing, they're like, 381 00:25:43,833 --> 00:25:46,933 "Oh, he says he has it, he's, he's totally safe." 382 00:25:46,935 --> 00:25:51,407 And then people who really know exactly what he's doing are freaked out. 383 00:25:51,775 --> 00:25:54,775 My dad was always like, "I don't want you to go ice climbing. 384 00:25:54,777 --> 00:25:57,814 I don't want you to free solo," you know. 385 00:25:58,247 --> 00:25:59,712 Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like. 386 00:25:59,714 --> 00:26:03,016 When he was my age, he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had 387 00:26:03,018 --> 00:26:04,450 died in the mountains. 388 00:26:04,452 --> 00:26:07,054 And now I'm at that point where I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends 389 00:26:07,056 --> 00:26:08,788 that have died in the mountains. 390 00:26:08,790 --> 00:26:10,324 That many? 391 00:26:10,326 --> 00:26:11,924 Yeah, I counted them a while ago. 392 00:26:11,926 --> 00:26:13,492 I mean, like not friends but people in our community. 393 00:26:13,494 --> 00:26:16,896 Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally, like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently. 394 00:26:16,898 --> 00:26:19,199 People that I have met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah. 395 00:26:19,201 --> 00:26:22,035 I haven't had anybody die who I was, like, really, really, close to yet. 396 00:26:22,037 --> 00:26:25,709 Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm. I don't know. 397 00:26:26,241 --> 00:26:31,077 I think everybody who has made free soloing a big part of their life, 398 00:26:31,079 --> 00:26:33,115 is dead now. 399 00:26:33,915 --> 00:26:37,319 John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing, 400 00:26:37,686 --> 00:26:42,021 he fell to his death this past week at the age of 52 from a cliff. 401 00:26:42,023 --> 00:26:44,091 And we're sorry to have to report on the death of 402 00:26:44,093 --> 00:26:46,426 U.S. Climber Sean Leary. 403 00:26:46,428 --> 00:26:49,563 Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago. 404 00:26:49,565 --> 00:26:52,266 Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley. 405 00:26:52,268 --> 00:26:54,804 His body was found Saturday morning. 406 00:26:55,136 --> 00:26:58,438 Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes. 407 00:26:58,440 --> 00:27:00,440 Most people that are pushing the limits, 408 00:27:00,442 --> 00:27:04,913 they have this mentality of "Screw it, whatever happens, happens." 409 00:27:27,869 --> 00:27:31,473 I think all the soloing he's done has trained his mind. 410 00:27:31,707 --> 00:27:36,079 He doesn't get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do. 411 00:27:36,846 --> 00:27:39,613 And not knowing about the science of that is that's probably a product 412 00:27:39,615 --> 00:27:43,519 of your past more than it is just a genetic thing. 413 00:27:46,387 --> 00:27:49,323 There's been a lot of speculation about, like, how I deal with fear and, 414 00:27:49,325 --> 00:27:51,490 like, how I'm able to free solo. 415 00:27:51,492 --> 00:27:54,327 People are just like, "Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker. 416 00:27:54,329 --> 00:27:57,032 There must be something defective." 417 00:28:00,236 --> 00:28:01,602 So when a writer contacted me about doing an 418 00:28:01,604 --> 00:28:06,038 MRI, I thought it's kind of cool just to go and get an MRI and, like, 419 00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:07,540 see what's actually going on. 420 00:28:07,542 --> 00:28:10,979 You know, scan your brain and then see if it's all there structurally. 421 00:28:14,016 --> 00:28:15,615 We're gonna start the task now. 422 00:28:15,617 --> 00:28:19,452 Remember to press the button every time you see a new picture come up, okay? 423 00:28:19,454 --> 00:28:21,323 Okay. 424 00:28:23,925 --> 00:28:27,126 We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some kind of freak creature or something. 425 00:28:27,128 --> 00:28:29,496 I've had several ex-girlfriends said that I have personality 426 00:28:29,498 --> 00:28:31,430 disorders or things like that. 427 00:28:31,432 --> 00:28:33,232 That there's something wrong with me. 428 00:28:33,234 --> 00:28:35,334 Emotionally stable? 429 00:28:35,336 --> 00:28:36,636 Agree. 430 00:28:36,638 --> 00:28:39,139 Ingenious, a deep thinker? 431 00:28:39,141 --> 00:28:40,974 Disagree. 432 00:28:40,976 --> 00:28:42,375 Tends to find fault with others? 433 00:28:42,377 --> 00:28:44,177 Agree somewhat. 434 00:28:44,179 --> 00:28:46,947 Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me? 435 00:28:46,949 --> 00:28:49,115 I have trouble controlling my impulses? 436 00:28:49,117 --> 00:28:52,184 Is depressed? 437 00:28:52,186 --> 00:28:55,390 Hmm. 438 00:28:55,958 --> 00:28:57,990 Is my, is my brain intact? 439 00:28:57,992 --> 00:29:00,526 Your brain's intact and it's, it's quite interesting. 440 00:29:00,528 --> 00:29:04,430 Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen, 441 00:29:04,432 --> 00:29:06,970 that's the amygdala. 442 00:29:08,403 --> 00:29:13,606 So an interesting thing, do you have no activation in your amygdala? 443 00:29:13,608 --> 00:29:16,511 There's just not much going on in my brain, it seems. 444 00:29:17,412 --> 00:29:21,014 Um, do you think my amygdala actually just doesn't work or something? 445 00:29:21,016 --> 00:29:25,889 Your amygdala works, it's just that it needs a much higher level of stimulation. 446 00:29:27,323 --> 00:29:31,725 Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us are 447 00:29:31,727 --> 00:29:33,727 not really doing it for you. 448 00:29:33,729 --> 00:29:36,162 Maybe my amygdala's just tired, you know, 449 00:29:36,164 --> 00:29:39,269 from too many years of being all gripped. 450 00:30:07,628 --> 00:30:11,667 I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's such a mental component to free soloing. 451 00:30:12,835 --> 00:30:17,336 The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess. 452 00:30:17,338 --> 00:30:19,739 Because you're not, you're not controlling your fear, you're sort of just trying 453 00:30:19,741 --> 00:30:22,577 to step outside of it. 454 00:30:25,146 --> 00:30:28,150 Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex! 455 00:30:28,483 --> 00:30:31,651 And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear, I mean, 456 00:30:31,653 --> 00:30:34,254 I look at it in a different way. 457 00:30:34,256 --> 00:30:38,557 I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves over and over again. 458 00:30:38,559 --> 00:30:41,697 I work through the fear, until it's just not scary anymore. 459 00:30:44,165 --> 00:30:45,664 Oh, no, no, no, no. 460 00:30:45,666 --> 00:30:49,004 Oh, so slippery. 461 00:30:49,270 --> 00:30:53,576 But, um, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies. 462 00:30:54,609 --> 00:31:00,415 You're standing on tiny edges, small variations in the texture of the rock. 463 00:31:01,282 --> 00:31:05,084 If you slip, your hands can't hold you. 464 00:31:05,086 --> 00:31:09,256 It's just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling, and 465 00:31:09,258 --> 00:31:12,996 when you step up, there's only one. 466 00:31:13,394 --> 00:31:15,764 Oh. 467 00:31:23,704 --> 00:31:30,112 It's like, it looks so much better today than yesterday, but we'll see. 468 00:31:33,147 --> 00:31:36,449 I probably fell about 30 feet. 469 00:31:36,451 --> 00:31:40,754 We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's belaying me, and then I just fell off, 470 00:31:40,756 --> 00:31:41,921 I don't know. 471 00:31:41,923 --> 00:31:44,623 I just, I don't even know how, I just, like, fell off. 472 00:31:44,625 --> 00:31:46,392 Show me how much you can go up and down on your own. 473 00:31:46,394 --> 00:31:49,395 It's, it's like, you know. 474 00:31:49,397 --> 00:31:51,664 I think this looks to me just like your straightforward ankle sprain. 475 00:31:51,666 --> 00:31:53,033 Okay. 476 00:31:53,035 --> 00:31:55,334 So, you know, we say ankle sprain, but more or less an ankle sprain 477 00:31:55,336 --> 00:31:56,469 is torn ligaments. 478 00:31:56,471 --> 00:31:57,872 - Yeah. - That's what it is. 479 00:31:57,874 --> 00:31:59,239 ...So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff? 480 00:31:59,241 --> 00:32:02,542 I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh, still just hike. 481 00:32:02,544 --> 00:32:04,577 Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get yourself through the first few days. 482 00:32:04,579 --> 00:32:05,813 Yeah. 483 00:32:05,815 --> 00:32:07,146 Um, but after that and it's just strengthening and rehab. 484 00:32:07,148 --> 00:32:10,116 Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity? 485 00:32:10,118 --> 00:32:14,557 Um, you could probably do too much too soon. 486 00:32:21,829 --> 00:32:24,331 Wait, you don't need to keep that right. 487 00:32:24,333 --> 00:32:26,900 I can worry as much as I want internally, 488 00:32:26,902 --> 00:32:30,903 but if he doesn't do this stuff he'd regret it. 489 00:32:30,905 --> 00:32:35,709 If Alex and I got married and had kids, I would feel a lot more willing to say 490 00:32:35,711 --> 00:32:40,479 what I thought about what was acceptable risk or not. 491 00:32:40,481 --> 00:32:42,751 He should have put his shoe on. 492 00:32:45,621 --> 00:32:48,591 - Stubborn. - Stubborn. 493 00:32:55,730 --> 00:32:59,498 I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now, I thought you're fine. 494 00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:00,801 Oh, I am, but what. 495 00:33:00,803 --> 00:33:03,236 Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on. 496 00:33:03,238 --> 00:33:04,804 Don't you want some watermelon? 497 00:33:04,806 --> 00:33:07,940 Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you. 498 00:33:07,942 --> 00:33:10,309 Uh-huh, I know, I'm pretty stoked about that. 499 00:33:10,311 --> 00:33:13,212 All right, um, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this, you're like, 500 00:33:13,214 --> 00:33:14,748 "Why did you do it that way?" 501 00:33:14,750 --> 00:33:16,382 I just want watermelon. 502 00:33:16,384 --> 00:33:18,351 I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent because 503 00:33:18,353 --> 00:33:19,786 you're just like, "Whatever." 504 00:33:19,788 --> 00:33:21,321 I haven't been injured in, like, seven years and then it's like I'm 505 00:33:21,323 --> 00:33:24,224 hanging out with this girl that doesn't climb and I suddenly start getting 506 00:33:24,226 --> 00:33:25,659 injured all the time. 507 00:33:25,661 --> 00:33:28,230 It's like you just cut down a tree. 508 00:33:36,805 --> 00:33:41,641 When they say "active recovery," no, that doesn't mean you're walking 509 00:33:41,643 --> 00:33:44,547 all over the place. 510 00:33:44,747 --> 00:33:48,683 I would be happy if he didn't free solo. 511 00:33:49,684 --> 00:33:54,254 I've always appreciated that he never told me beforehand that he was gonna 512 00:33:54,256 --> 00:33:56,222 free solo or anything. 513 00:33:56,224 --> 00:33:59,292 I could come down on him and say, "You shouldn't be doing that," 514 00:33:59,294 --> 00:34:02,328 and alienate him, and, uh, it would've alienated 515 00:34:02,330 --> 00:34:04,930 him because that's his, uh, whole life. 516 00:34:04,932 --> 00:34:08,434 I think when he's free soloing, that's when he feels the most alive, 517 00:34:08,436 --> 00:34:10,670 the most everything, the most. 518 00:34:10,672 --> 00:34:12,204 Feels the most. 519 00:34:12,206 --> 00:34:16,575 And how can you even think about taking that away from somebody, you know? 520 00:34:16,577 --> 00:34:18,648 I wouldn't. 521 00:34:28,724 --> 00:34:31,557 I've been able to stand on one foot while I put my harness and my shoes and 522 00:34:31,559 --> 00:34:34,797 stuff on, and getting' this like kind of, a minor victory. 523 00:34:37,032 --> 00:34:40,633 Um, I haven't put on my climbing shoe basically since I did it. 524 00:34:40,635 --> 00:34:43,672 So swollen. So tender. 525 00:34:47,708 --> 00:34:52,311 Unfortunately, crack climbing is all ankle-dependent. 526 00:34:52,313 --> 00:34:58,150 And Freerider is 3,000 feet of crack climbing. 527 00:34:58,152 --> 00:35:00,720 All my friends that have sprained their ankles in serious ways have 528 00:35:00,722 --> 00:35:05,861 all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at least six months until it's normal." 529 00:35:06,561 --> 00:35:08,695 If I can't get this done in the next month 530 00:35:08,697 --> 00:35:12,535 then the weather will change and I'll have to wait until next year. 531 00:35:23,911 --> 00:35:27,347 You know, a couple years ago, I remember him telling me that he had never 532 00:35:27,349 --> 00:35:31,650 fallen unexpectedly in his life, and now I've seen it happen twice 533 00:35:31,652 --> 00:35:33,920 in the past, like, month. 534 00:35:33,922 --> 00:35:36,958 But when you hear stuff like that, you start to wonder a little bit. 535 00:35:38,226 --> 00:35:41,860 I had this dream the night before he called me that he had, like, 536 00:35:41,862 --> 00:35:44,863 wandered into our house and asked us, and, like, started crying, 537 00:35:44,865 --> 00:35:47,066 which really freaked me out 'cause Alex doesn't cry. 538 00:35:47,068 --> 00:35:50,804 And then he had told me that he fell free soloing and started, like, 539 00:35:50,806 --> 00:35:54,374 revealing all of his injuries, like he pulled up his sleeve on his arm, 540 00:35:54,376 --> 00:35:57,876 and in my dream a bone just, like, fell out of his arm and it was all messed up. 541 00:35:57,878 --> 00:36:02,715 And that, and it was this really, like, kind of vivid, but super freaky dream. 542 00:36:02,717 --> 00:36:06,655 And, uh, and then the next day he called me and told me he hurt himself. 543 00:36:07,621 --> 00:36:09,456 Hi, hi, Ingrid. 544 00:36:09,458 --> 00:36:11,624 Sometimes, one at a time. 545 00:36:11,626 --> 00:36:13,126 Hi, hello, how's it going? 546 00:36:13,128 --> 00:36:16,128 - Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz! - So we got Fitz. 547 00:36:16,130 --> 00:36:18,498 - Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz! - Are you gonna carve a pumpkin? 548 00:36:18,500 --> 00:36:20,400 Nice, that's good. 549 00:36:20,402 --> 00:36:21,967 That seems off. 550 00:36:23,704 --> 00:36:25,005 Eww. 551 00:36:25,007 --> 00:36:27,474 Alex said, "I want nothing to do with the pumpkin carving, 552 00:36:27,476 --> 00:36:29,075 and I won't carve anything and I hate holidays." 553 00:36:29,077 --> 00:36:30,844 I like having fun when I have fun. 554 00:36:30,846 --> 00:36:34,382 I don't like being told that it's time to have fun. 555 00:36:34,583 --> 00:36:37,653 Yeah, I think we need to a little more. 556 00:36:37,985 --> 00:36:39,084 Whoa, she's squirming. 557 00:36:39,086 --> 00:36:41,153 I don't know. Do you have a good grip on there? 558 00:36:41,155 --> 00:36:44,023 You put that in my eye again, I'm gonna drop you. 559 00:36:44,025 --> 00:36:46,492 Why does it not want to see us? 560 00:36:46,494 --> 00:36:47,594 Just kidding, I won't. 561 00:36:47,596 --> 00:36:49,095 He keeps. 562 00:36:49,097 --> 00:36:50,530 You gotta lift him up more, you need to. 563 00:36:50,532 --> 00:36:52,065 Bye, Tom. 564 00:36:52,067 --> 00:36:53,733 Oh man, you should have a lot of fear right now. 565 00:36:53,735 --> 00:36:55,601 Okay, 'cause' I feel a lot of anxiety. 566 00:36:55,603 --> 00:36:58,704 No one in any part of my family has hugged during all my formative years. 567 00:36:58,706 --> 00:37:02,075 I had to teach myself how to hug when I was, like, 23 or something. 568 00:37:02,077 --> 00:37:03,876 'Cause I was like, "Everyone seems to hug, 569 00:37:03,878 --> 00:37:05,478 that seems like something I should get into," 570 00:37:05,480 --> 00:37:07,713 and then I started, like, practicing. 571 00:37:07,715 --> 00:37:09,115 Now I'm quite a good hugger. 572 00:37:09,117 --> 00:37:10,650 Yes. 573 00:37:10,652 --> 00:37:12,050 You see that the pumpkin is a van? 574 00:37:12,052 --> 00:37:13,787 - I did see it. - That's a precious van. 575 00:37:13,789 --> 00:37:14,987 Is it a cat? 576 00:37:14,989 --> 00:37:16,755 - I did the cat. -That's good. - Look at that. 577 00:37:16,757 --> 00:37:18,425 Um, I did it all by my. 578 00:37:18,427 --> 00:37:19,793 Honestly, it does look good like this. 579 00:37:19,795 --> 00:37:21,594 It looked terrible. 580 00:37:21,596 --> 00:37:23,195 I think, yeah. 581 00:37:23,197 --> 00:37:26,532 Part of the thing with the L word, you know, is saying love and stuff, 582 00:37:26,534 --> 00:37:29,869 is that, like, in my entire life no one in any part of my family has ever used, 583 00:37:29,871 --> 00:37:31,974 you know, that word. 584 00:37:36,077 --> 00:37:38,744 My Mom has only spoken French to my sister and I our whole lives. 585 00:37:38,746 --> 00:37:41,481 She's a French teacher, so she says, "Je t'aime" or whatever, 586 00:37:41,483 --> 00:37:45,521 and then my dad didn't talk about anything. 587 00:37:45,820 --> 00:37:49,155 Nobody had an emotional bond with Charlie. 588 00:37:49,157 --> 00:37:52,795 Charlie was probably what we call nowadays Asperger's. 589 00:37:55,563 --> 00:37:58,197 Charlie's obsession, what everyone called monomania. 590 00:37:58,199 --> 00:37:59,999 He loved to travel. 591 00:38:00,001 --> 00:38:02,405 He lived to travel like Alex lives to climb. 592 00:38:03,271 --> 00:38:06,141 When he wasn't traveling, things were not good. 593 00:38:07,041 --> 00:38:10,008 Alex would do something and we'd call him stupid names, 594 00:38:10,010 --> 00:38:13,949 "Hey, bozo, don't do it like that," just demeaning things. 595 00:38:14,449 --> 00:38:18,517 If you learn that about your self-worth when you're this big, 596 00:38:18,519 --> 00:38:21,657 I don't think that goes away. 597 00:38:22,324 --> 00:38:25,894 I have no recollection of that. 598 00:38:26,262 --> 00:38:28,561 I don't think my dad put down anybody. 599 00:38:28,563 --> 00:38:32,902 I think my dad is like a teddy bear, but dad was pretty morose. 600 00:38:35,269 --> 00:38:37,871 And then the thing is once they got divorced, then they both were, like, 601 00:38:37,873 --> 00:38:41,043 so much happier and it all seemed great, but he died the next summer. 602 00:38:42,244 --> 00:38:47,179 It's really kind of too bad that he doesn't get to see how it all played out, 603 00:38:47,181 --> 00:38:51,453 'cause he put so much effort into nurturing my climbing. 604 00:38:53,989 --> 00:38:55,389 But who knows? 605 00:38:55,391 --> 00:38:59,224 Maybe mom thought that he was, like, holding us back or, like, you know, 606 00:38:59,226 --> 00:39:02,528 not pushing us to achieve our full potential or, like, whatever, 607 00:39:02,530 --> 00:39:04,666 you know what I mean? 608 00:39:04,967 --> 00:39:08,034 My Mom's favorite sayings are, "Presque ne compte pas," 609 00:39:08,036 --> 00:39:11,941 "Almost doesn't count," or, uh, "Good enough isn't." 610 00:39:12,307 --> 00:39:14,943 No matter how well I ever do at anything, it's not that good. 611 00:39:20,882 --> 00:39:24,086 The bottomless pit of self-loathing. 612 00:39:26,054 --> 00:39:30,860 I mean, that's definitely the motivation for some soloing. 613 00:39:40,668 --> 00:39:42,737 Here we are. 614 00:39:43,538 --> 00:39:45,637 So I still never, like, quietly, 615 00:39:45,639 --> 00:39:47,740 quite understand what happened when you fell, you, 616 00:39:47,742 --> 00:39:49,275 like, do you even know? 617 00:39:49,277 --> 00:39:50,809 It should be just kinda, like. 618 00:39:50,811 --> 00:39:52,878 Uh, I don't know why I fell off, but I mean I know that my skin was, 619 00:39:52,880 --> 00:39:54,113 like, hard and dry. 620 00:39:54,115 --> 00:39:55,315 It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy. 621 00:39:55,317 --> 00:39:59,088 Weird he doesn't even say he knows what happened. 622 00:39:59,320 --> 00:40:02,755 He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling," which kind of surprised me because I feel 623 00:40:02,757 --> 00:40:05,258 like he's always so aware. 624 00:40:05,260 --> 00:40:08,163 Or like maybe he's not always totally aware. 625 00:40:09,030 --> 00:40:13,700 You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos and I think as, like, 626 00:40:13,702 --> 00:40:17,072 a friend or a family member of him, you kinda have to have that same thing. 627 00:40:22,110 --> 00:40:26,315 Like after that happened, for whatever reason, it kinda like waked me up more than normal. 628 00:40:27,282 --> 00:40:29,615 You know, normally I'm just like, "Oh, he's got it. 629 00:40:29,617 --> 00:40:31,617 He's such, he's such a beast, you know, he's gonna be fine." 630 00:40:31,619 --> 00:40:37,590 But I just, like, 631 00:40:37,592 --> 00:40:41,896 am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know? 632 00:40:45,800 --> 00:40:50,003 Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to 633 00:40:50,005 --> 00:40:53,709 challenging yourself and doing something well. 634 00:40:54,443 --> 00:40:58,010 That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death. 635 00:40:58,012 --> 00:41:01,115 You can't make a mistake. 636 00:41:01,583 --> 00:41:06,885 If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. 637 00:41:06,887 --> 00:41:11,826 And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment. 638 00:41:15,730 --> 00:41:18,965 My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident, 639 00:41:18,967 --> 00:41:22,869 they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know, 640 00:41:22,871 --> 00:41:24,204 like they'll be fine. 641 00:41:24,206 --> 00:41:25,704 I mean, and I've had this problem with girls a lot, you know. 642 00:41:25,706 --> 00:41:29,008 They're like, "Oh, I really care about you," I'm like, "No you don't." 643 00:41:29,010 --> 00:41:30,642 Like if I perish, like, it doesn't matter, 644 00:41:30,644 --> 00:41:34,179 like you'll find somebody else, like, that's not, that's not that big a deal. 645 00:41:34,181 --> 00:41:36,884 I don't know. 646 00:41:37,284 --> 00:41:40,221 Maybe that's a little too callous. 647 00:41:45,460 --> 00:41:49,965 My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit. 648 00:41:53,967 --> 00:41:56,904 Rope! 649 00:42:02,110 --> 00:42:04,776 Pretty epic rappel. 650 00:42:04,778 --> 00:42:07,650 Uh, we're just commuting down the wall, kinda. 651 00:42:08,117 --> 00:42:10,419 We're just having a good old time. 652 00:42:11,552 --> 00:42:14,954 If you look at soloing El Cap objectively, there are probably six pitches that 653 00:42:14,956 --> 00:42:17,757 worry me the most. 654 00:42:17,759 --> 00:42:20,293 Just off the ground, there's some insecure climbing. 655 00:42:20,295 --> 00:42:22,929 And then Freeblast, Pitch 6, being the one I fell off of, 656 00:42:22,931 --> 00:42:25,831 which is obviously a total botch. 657 00:42:25,833 --> 00:42:29,202 Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. 658 00:42:29,204 --> 00:42:32,204 And then the Monster Offwidth, 659 00:42:32,206 --> 00:42:35,009 which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. 660 00:42:39,114 --> 00:42:42,248 When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being 661 00:42:42,250 --> 00:42:45,019 crushed in the mountain. 662 00:42:45,719 --> 00:42:49,354 Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, 663 00:42:49,356 --> 00:42:52,758 somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin 664 00:42:52,760 --> 00:42:57,166 off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, 665 00:42:57,532 --> 00:43:01,103 and if you lose the position you die. 666 00:43:04,838 --> 00:43:08,907 The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of 667 00:43:08,909 --> 00:43:10,945 virtually any big solo I've done. 668 00:43:15,983 --> 00:43:18,985 Your feet aren't on any specific holds. 669 00:43:18,987 --> 00:43:21,153 What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you 670 00:43:21,155 --> 00:43:24,226 pull with your hands. 671 00:43:24,893 --> 00:43:28,094 The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. 672 00:43:28,096 --> 00:43:31,500 The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. 673 00:43:32,032 --> 00:43:36,337 And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued. 674 00:43:39,507 --> 00:43:43,412 But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part. 675 00:43:44,445 --> 00:43:49,951 To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. 676 00:43:50,452 --> 00:43:54,456 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope. 677 00:44:00,128 --> 00:44:03,231 The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass, 678 00:44:03,632 --> 00:44:07,536 which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. 679 00:44:08,235 --> 00:44:12,338 Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, 680 00:44:12,340 --> 00:44:15,307 and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so 681 00:44:15,309 --> 00:44:18,211 that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. 682 00:44:18,213 --> 00:44:21,380 And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like, 683 00:44:21,382 --> 00:44:24,485 that's just a crazy thing to think about. 684 00:44:26,487 --> 00:44:29,791 The alternative is the Boulder Problem. 685 00:44:30,958 --> 00:44:33,528 But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult. 686 00:44:37,030 --> 00:44:39,932 It's a very intricate sequence. 687 00:44:39,934 --> 00:44:44,006 You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, 688 00:44:44,539 --> 00:44:47,943 and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. 689 00:44:48,376 --> 00:44:52,181 Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish, 690 00:44:54,481 --> 00:44:57,916 and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. 691 00:44:57,918 --> 00:45:00,052 That's the worst hold on the entire route. 692 00:45:00,054 --> 00:45:02,958 So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. 693 00:45:03,425 --> 00:45:07,930 Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet, 694 00:45:09,097 --> 00:45:12,234 left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. 695 00:45:15,068 --> 00:45:17,905 Switch your thumbs. 696 00:45:20,173 --> 00:45:23,441 And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that 697 00:45:23,443 --> 00:45:26,414 feels kind of grainy. 698 00:45:27,615 --> 00:45:32,286 From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall. 699 00:45:35,322 --> 00:45:38,990 In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to 700 00:45:38,992 --> 00:45:42,331 a good edge so there's actually something to catch. 701 00:45:48,436 --> 00:45:51,539 But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous, 702 00:45:51,739 --> 00:45:55,076 if you miss it, that's that. 703 00:45:56,545 --> 00:46:01,016 But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall, 704 00:46:01,248 --> 00:46:04,485 which also feels outrageous for soloing. 705 00:46:20,268 --> 00:46:23,536 Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching 706 00:46:23,538 --> 00:46:25,170 that shit and just being that, put the foot. 707 00:46:25,172 --> 00:46:27,305 Well, as I said, when you actually put your foot out there, I was like, 708 00:46:27,307 --> 00:46:28,340 "Well, that doesn't look that bad." 709 00:46:28,342 --> 00:46:33,080 Yeah, it's not like crazy, but we'll see. 710 00:46:38,987 --> 00:46:40,619 Did you take Ibuprofen this morning? 711 00:46:40,621 --> 00:46:43,289 Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm going to right now also. 712 00:46:43,291 --> 00:46:45,324 - For your ankle? - Uh-hmm. 713 00:46:45,326 --> 00:46:51,666 Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing, because he's already a 714 00:46:52,532 --> 00:46:56,001 big part of my life. 715 00:46:56,003 --> 00:47:00,708 I tell Alex I love him all the time, and he shows me that he loves me all the time. 716 00:47:02,543 --> 00:47:04,409 And really just dive in. 717 00:47:04,411 --> 00:47:05,644 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 718 00:47:05,646 --> 00:47:07,746 But I also tell him that I also need words of affection. 719 00:47:07,748 --> 00:47:10,551 - Yeah. - We work on that. 720 00:47:12,019 --> 00:47:16,425 In terms of learning how to communicate emotion, Alex has a long way to go. 721 00:47:16,992 --> 00:47:22,595 And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you how I feel, and I just need you to say it 722 00:47:22,597 --> 00:47:25,300 totally makes sense that you feel that way." 723 00:47:26,034 --> 00:47:29,271 He was like, "Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way." 724 00:47:30,605 --> 00:47:33,405 I was like, "I don't really think that you do, 725 00:47:33,407 --> 00:47:36,310 but I'm glad that you're trying." 726 00:47:38,079 --> 00:47:40,412 Alex, we have excellent team skills. 727 00:47:40,414 --> 00:47:42,680 Well, I thought, I feel like we're not quite killin' it, but we're, 728 00:47:42,682 --> 00:47:44,150 I think we're doin' well. 729 00:47:44,152 --> 00:47:46,552 Really? I think we're doing great. 730 00:47:46,554 --> 00:47:50,125 I'm very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well. 731 00:47:50,757 --> 00:47:53,761 And I'm, I think I'm just impressed by their relationship, 732 00:47:56,264 --> 00:48:00,302 but to free solo at that level, you really have to have the mental armor. 733 00:48:01,369 --> 00:48:04,740 Having that romantic relationship around is detrimental to that armor. 734 00:48:05,673 --> 00:48:09,208 You have to focus and inherently a close romantic relationship 735 00:48:09,210 --> 00:48:10,575 removes that armor. 736 00:48:10,577 --> 00:48:14,048 You kinda can't have both at the same time. 737 00:48:40,141 --> 00:48:42,407 There's always something that has to give you the confidence to 738 00:48:42,409 --> 00:48:44,577 go out and free solo a route. 739 00:48:44,579 --> 00:48:48,450 So sometimes, that confidence just comes from feeling super, super fit. 740 00:48:48,650 --> 00:48:52,119 Sometimes, that confidence comes through preparation and rehearsal. 741 00:48:52,786 --> 00:48:55,556 But I mean there's always something that makes you feel ready. 742 00:49:03,197 --> 00:49:05,363 There's something to be said for, like, soloing a bunch of pitches to, like, 743 00:49:05,365 --> 00:49:08,737 get into that right space. 744 00:49:11,139 --> 00:49:13,208 It's a little stressful. 745 00:49:13,541 --> 00:49:17,142 It's just, it's unreal. 746 00:49:17,144 --> 00:49:18,778 Yeah. 747 00:49:18,780 --> 00:49:22,180 And as much as I trust Alex and I know that he's really methodical, uh, 748 00:49:22,182 --> 00:49:25,353 if you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. 749 00:49:28,789 --> 00:49:30,389 But then there's just some things that you're, like, well, 750 00:49:30,391 --> 00:49:33,925 you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool. 751 00:49:33,927 --> 00:49:36,730 And El Cap is that cool. 752 00:49:39,634 --> 00:49:43,105 There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things, 753 00:49:43,505 --> 00:49:47,275 but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap, 754 00:49:47,708 --> 00:49:51,246 if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap. 755 00:49:52,079 --> 00:49:56,250 It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves, without a rope, 756 00:49:56,617 --> 00:49:58,784 where it's pretty much all the other big cliffs around here. 757 00:49:58,786 --> 00:50:01,490 I can kinda get it. 758 00:50:02,056 --> 00:50:04,322 How many times have you soloed both those routes now? 759 00:50:04,324 --> 00:50:08,459 Well, Astroman, three or four times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally, 760 00:50:08,461 --> 00:50:10,563 like, fifty, sixty. 761 00:50:10,565 --> 00:50:12,800 Wait, you've soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times? 762 00:50:13,434 --> 00:50:15,434 It was like part of the circuit and I would, 763 00:50:15,436 --> 00:50:17,570 I would go there and I would do it at least twice. 764 00:50:17,572 --> 00:50:19,840 Like I was just glommed on. 765 00:50:20,106 --> 00:50:21,340 Uh-huh. 766 00:50:21,342 --> 00:50:22,708 Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how. 767 00:50:22,710 --> 00:50:24,976 Yeah, because you're so tight. You know, I love that about soloing. 768 00:50:24,978 --> 00:50:26,878 My footwork gets really good. 769 00:50:26,880 --> 00:50:28,447 Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah. 770 00:50:28,449 --> 00:50:30,749 But it's not for anybody else, this is just for me. 771 00:50:30,751 --> 00:50:32,483 Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you're. 772 00:50:32,485 --> 00:50:34,220 And after Astroman, people were like, 773 00:50:34,222 --> 00:50:35,787 "Ah, we wanna film you, film you up there," 774 00:50:35,789 --> 00:50:38,726 and I'm like, "Not interested, not even slightly." 775 00:50:38,927 --> 00:50:42,595 For me, it was so incredibly important to be doing it for the right reasons. 776 00:50:42,597 --> 00:50:45,630 I mean, I think I'm still doing everything for the right reasons, 777 00:50:45,632 --> 00:50:48,867 and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel like from the outside observer, you know, 778 00:50:48,869 --> 00:50:52,237 they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a movie crew," like clearly that's the 779 00:50:52,239 --> 00:50:53,873 wrong reasons, you know. 780 00:50:53,875 --> 00:50:59,481 The worst thing about having a film crew is if it changes your mindset. 781 00:51:09,590 --> 00:51:12,527 I think Alex is almost ready to do it. 782 00:51:12,760 --> 00:51:15,797 He just wants to take a few more practice laps. 783 00:51:16,831 --> 00:51:22,336 And we're just trying to figure out all of our camera positions. 784 00:51:27,574 --> 00:51:32,246 I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile. 785 00:51:32,780 --> 00:51:36,981 We wanna film it well, but it's about not getting in his way and making sure 786 00:51:36,983 --> 00:51:39,954 he has the experience he wants. 787 00:51:44,759 --> 00:51:47,592 The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something 788 00:51:47,594 --> 00:51:49,494 that would kill him. 789 00:51:49,496 --> 00:51:50,762 Is it gonna be the drone? 790 00:51:50,764 --> 00:51:51,831 Is it gonna be one of the ropes? 791 00:51:51,833 --> 00:51:55,503 Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock? 792 00:51:59,005 --> 00:52:01,673 The idea of falling off is, you know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that, 793 00:52:01,675 --> 00:52:05,844 but it's like kind of okay if it's just by myself. 794 00:52:05,846 --> 00:52:08,780 But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right in front of my friends, 'cause that's like, 795 00:52:08,782 --> 00:52:12,019 that's kind of messed up. 796 00:52:12,420 --> 00:52:15,724 Where are you comfortable with us being essentially? 797 00:52:16,391 --> 00:52:19,325 Well, do you have like. 798 00:52:19,327 --> 00:52:20,659 The traverse into it? 799 00:52:20,661 --> 00:52:22,293 - Uh-hmm. - Yeah. 800 00:52:22,295 --> 00:52:25,496 And then a, just a camera above, sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially. 801 00:52:25,498 --> 00:52:27,999 - Yeah. -It's distracting. - Yeah, it's distracting. 802 00:52:28,001 --> 00:52:31,003 Well, it's not just distracting, but it's also like, you know, 803 00:52:31,005 --> 00:52:34,576 nobody wants to see that, I don't know. 804 00:52:36,510 --> 00:52:40,579 Like, yeah, I don't, yeah, it's better not to. 805 00:52:40,581 --> 00:52:42,784 Some things you're like, meh. 806 00:52:43,416 --> 00:52:47,322 Yeah, okay. 807 00:52:49,456 --> 00:52:52,391 So should I rally into the valley and try to like round out plans? 808 00:52:52,393 --> 00:52:54,561 Yeah, yeah. 809 00:52:58,398 --> 00:53:01,066 Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge. 810 00:53:01,068 --> 00:53:05,804 The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably. 811 00:53:05,806 --> 00:53:07,039 - 8:05? - Okay. 812 00:53:07,041 --> 00:53:09,141 You don't want it to be sunny when you get to the crux, 813 00:53:09,143 --> 00:53:12,411 and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem, 814 00:53:12,413 --> 00:53:14,746 and it's fall so in order to beat the sun, 815 00:53:14,748 --> 00:53:17,081 you basically have to start in the dark. 816 00:53:17,083 --> 00:53:21,690 I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically. 817 00:53:29,563 --> 00:53:30,762 I don't know. 818 00:53:30,764 --> 00:53:33,335 I'm starting to get kind of psyched. 819 00:53:35,769 --> 00:53:38,604 The moment of just letting go to it is in some ways the most peaceful because 820 00:53:38,606 --> 00:53:40,171 then it's like you just do your thing. 821 00:53:40,173 --> 00:53:43,344 There's no more stress, there's no more anxiety, there's no fear, whatever, 822 00:53:43,844 --> 00:53:46,077 you just go up and do it. 823 00:53:46,079 --> 00:53:49,384 I put on my tight shoes today, it's like very exciting. 824 00:53:50,284 --> 00:53:53,619 It would be, like, it would be like a samurai pulling out his favorite sword, 825 00:53:53,621 --> 00:53:55,019 you know like, 826 00:53:55,021 --> 00:53:56,954 "Oh, my gosh," you know, and now I'm like, 827 00:53:56,956 --> 00:53:59,557 "Oh, time for the, the finely crafted blade." 828 00:53:59,559 --> 00:54:02,663 So stoked. I like sinking into it. 829 00:54:03,264 --> 00:54:08,700 It's, it goes with the Jedi thing, the samurai with the, and then I just 830 00:54:08,702 --> 00:54:10,369 started taking Ibuprofen. 831 00:54:10,371 --> 00:54:13,508 I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like, I think my foot's gonna be pretty good. 832 00:54:13,773 --> 00:54:16,978 Yeah, what does Sanni say when you talk to her about it? 833 00:54:17,277 --> 00:54:18,844 Um, I mean I haven't talked to her that much. 834 00:54:18,846 --> 00:54:20,479 She's been, like, asking a lot of questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?" 835 00:54:20,481 --> 00:54:25,083 And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see." 836 00:54:25,085 --> 00:54:28,655 You know, the fewer people know anything, the better really. 837 00:54:30,824 --> 00:54:34,126 I had a dream and you were limping and you were like, had caught, 838 00:54:34,128 --> 00:54:38,597 had like made the exact same fall and fallen on your ankle in the exact same way. 839 00:54:38,599 --> 00:54:40,164 That's really nice, San San. 840 00:54:40,166 --> 00:54:41,633 It was like tragic. 841 00:54:41,635 --> 00:54:42,867 I love hearing stories about that. 842 00:54:42,869 --> 00:54:45,838 - I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh. - I hope that didn't happen." 843 00:54:45,840 --> 00:54:48,240 That's, that's really nice. 844 00:54:48,242 --> 00:54:50,108 Um, what is your, is your daypack? 845 00:54:50,110 --> 00:54:51,876 They're bringing it up there for you and Peter? 846 00:54:51,878 --> 00:54:53,845 Um, no. 847 00:54:53,847 --> 00:54:56,481 For me tomorrow, probably. 848 00:54:56,483 --> 00:54:59,217 For on the mountain? 849 00:54:59,219 --> 00:55:01,220 Um, for the summit, yeah. 850 00:55:01,222 --> 00:55:03,789 Hmm, you and Peter are gonna try and do the whole thing? 851 00:55:03,791 --> 00:55:06,657 Uh, no, Peter won't be here for a couple of days probably. 852 00:55:06,659 --> 00:55:08,860 Oh, who are you climbing with tomorrow? 853 00:55:08,862 --> 00:55:11,829 Um, yeah, we'll just see. 854 00:55:11,831 --> 00:55:13,867 Oh, okay, okay. 855 00:55:17,003 --> 00:55:20,539 Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who 856 00:55:20,541 --> 00:55:22,039 you're climbing with? 857 00:55:22,041 --> 00:55:24,675 Um, well, I'm not like not telling you, but yeah. 858 00:55:24,677 --> 00:55:25,943 Whoa, Alex. 859 00:55:25,945 --> 00:55:28,179 - Whoa. - Whoa. -Whoa. 860 00:55:28,181 --> 00:55:29,548 How do you feel? 861 00:55:29,550 --> 00:55:32,784 I'm, you know, I mean, excited. 862 00:55:32,786 --> 00:55:35,854 That's really exciting. Is it that feeling when you're like... 863 00:55:35,856 --> 00:55:38,155 So exciting I'm gonna go right back to my book. 864 00:55:38,157 --> 00:55:40,661 Where you're like, no, I'm not reading it. 865 00:55:41,929 --> 00:55:43,228 When did you decide? 866 00:55:43,230 --> 00:55:44,729 When did you decide to do it tomorrow? 867 00:55:44,731 --> 00:55:47,902 No, just, you know, uh, yesterday or the day before or something. 868 00:55:48,469 --> 00:55:51,639 Hmm, I'm processing. 869 00:56:17,164 --> 00:56:20,197 I wanna, like I wanna have this more, like, holistic approach that you have where 870 00:56:20,199 --> 00:56:21,432 you're like "Well, we're all gonna die, 871 00:56:21,434 --> 00:56:23,936 like might as well do what we wanna do while we're here and 872 00:56:23,938 --> 00:56:28,242 it's okay when people die," but I feel like I want you to meet me halfway 873 00:56:29,876 --> 00:56:34,548 and when you solo to take me into the equation 874 00:56:35,715 --> 00:56:36,981 and then I think you said... 875 00:56:36,983 --> 00:56:39,786 Is there a question? -Some, there's going to be. -Okay. 876 00:56:40,186 --> 00:56:43,088 Um, would putting me into the equation actually ever change anything? 877 00:56:43,090 --> 00:56:46,126 Would you actually make decisions differently? 878 00:56:46,494 --> 00:56:51,266 If I had some kind of obligation to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah, 879 00:56:51,565 --> 00:56:53,632 obviously I'd have to give up soloing and, um. 880 00:56:53,634 --> 00:56:57,235 Was me asking you, do you see that as an obligation now? 881 00:56:57,237 --> 00:56:58,936 ...Uh, no, no. 882 00:56:58,938 --> 00:57:00,606 Oh. 883 00:57:00,608 --> 00:57:06,211 No, but I appreciate your concerns and I, you know, I respect that, but, but I, 884 00:57:06,213 --> 00:57:08,347 in no way, feel obligated, no. 885 00:57:08,349 --> 00:57:09,780 To maximize lifetime? 886 00:57:09,782 --> 00:57:12,853 No, no, I don't know. 887 00:57:14,422 --> 00:57:19,059 Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer," I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't. 888 00:57:20,193 --> 00:57:21,994 You know, I'm already doing my best. 889 00:57:21,996 --> 00:57:24,162 So I could just, like, not do certain things, but then you have, like, 890 00:57:24,164 --> 00:57:26,898 weird simmering resentment because it's things that you love most in life 891 00:57:26,900 --> 00:57:28,867 have now been squashed. 892 00:57:28,869 --> 00:57:31,806 You know what I mean? 893 00:57:46,186 --> 00:57:50,021 - What time is it? -3:30. - Oh. 894 00:57:50,023 --> 00:57:52,923 I just woke up one minute before my alarm. 895 00:57:52,925 --> 00:57:55,630 Yeah, you woke up before or after? 896 00:57:56,829 --> 00:57:59,933 One minute before. 897 00:58:16,382 --> 00:58:19,953 It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection. 898 00:58:22,690 --> 00:58:25,994 And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform. 899 00:58:29,862 --> 00:58:32,863 It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time 900 00:58:32,865 --> 00:58:35,302 in human history. 901 00:58:49,717 --> 00:58:53,021 Let's hope it's a low gravity day. 902 00:58:55,222 --> 00:58:57,856 Bye, Huck, see you at the ground. 903 00:58:57,858 --> 00:59:01,028 - Meet you in the ground. - See you, buddy. 904 00:59:27,987 --> 00:59:31,291 This sucks. I don't wanna be here. 905 00:59:36,764 --> 00:59:39,733 I'm over it. 906 00:59:40,266 --> 00:59:41,398 What happened? 907 00:59:41,400 --> 00:59:43,869 I cheated on the slab down there. 908 00:59:43,871 --> 00:59:45,369 Might as well radio it. 909 00:59:45,371 --> 00:59:48,141 Do you wanna talk to him? 910 00:59:49,376 --> 00:59:52,043 I don't even know what to say, it's, like, kind of embarrassing. 911 00:59:52,045 --> 00:59:54,246 Uh, hey, whoever's on the radio, this is Alex. 912 00:59:54,248 --> 00:59:57,050 Um, I think I'm bailing. 913 00:59:59,018 --> 01:00:00,818 Wait, could you repeat? 914 01:00:00,820 --> 01:00:03,088 I think he's bailing from heart. 915 01:00:03,090 --> 01:00:06,126 Bailing from heart, that's correct. 916 01:00:09,429 --> 01:00:12,166 It's kind of disturbing. 917 01:00:16,402 --> 01:00:19,304 Yeah, I wonder what it was. 918 01:00:19,306 --> 01:00:22,139 I don't know if I can try with everybody watching. 919 01:00:22,141 --> 01:00:23,974 It's too scary. 920 01:00:23,976 --> 01:00:26,913 Just can't, like, try for real. 921 01:00:41,094 --> 01:00:44,229 - Oh, my gosh. -Good morning. - What are you doing? 922 01:00:44,231 --> 01:00:45,530 Oh, I bailed. 923 01:00:45,532 --> 01:00:47,097 You bailed, oh? 924 01:00:47,099 --> 01:00:48,300 Yeah, it's chilly outside. 925 01:00:48,302 --> 01:00:49,967 It's chilly, okay. 926 01:00:49,969 --> 01:00:52,072 Okay. 927 01:00:52,840 --> 01:00:53,905 What's going on? 928 01:00:53,907 --> 01:00:58,513 Well, not much. 929 01:00:58,713 --> 01:00:59,912 What's up? 930 01:00:59,914 --> 01:01:02,012 Oh, I just, I went up to Free Blast and I was, like, nah, 931 01:01:02,014 --> 01:01:03,548 I'm not gonna' do it. But... 932 01:01:03,550 --> 01:01:05,016 Good for you. 933 01:01:05,018 --> 01:01:06,383 Yeah, well, it's just a little weird, you know? 934 01:01:06,385 --> 01:01:08,119 - Yup. - Yeah. -No. 935 01:01:08,121 --> 01:01:12,123 Right, I mean there's just too many random, random folks about and stuff, whatever. 936 01:01:12,125 --> 01:01:13,458 Uh-hmm, yeah. 937 01:01:13,460 --> 01:01:16,228 But, like, basically I did the first half of the first slab. 938 01:01:16,230 --> 01:01:17,563 Uh-hmm. 939 01:01:17,565 --> 01:01:19,965 And then, uh, and then I just was like, "Oh, I don't know." 940 01:01:19,967 --> 01:01:21,166 And my feet. 941 01:01:21,168 --> 01:01:22,601 Right, you made the perfect decision. 942 01:01:22,603 --> 01:01:24,168 I don't know though, I'm just like. 943 01:01:24,170 --> 01:01:25,369 Yeah. 944 01:01:25,371 --> 01:01:27,438 But now it all has to drag on longer, I'm like. 945 01:01:27,440 --> 01:01:30,307 You, yeah, I mean, you never have to go for it. 946 01:01:30,309 --> 01:01:31,242 You can just. 947 01:01:31,244 --> 01:01:33,211 Well, I just need it to end, you know. 948 01:01:33,213 --> 01:01:34,646 Yeah, yeah, all the... 949 01:01:34,648 --> 01:01:36,548 Yeah, you know what I'm talking about. 950 01:01:36,550 --> 01:01:39,053 The circus surrounding you. 951 01:01:42,922 --> 01:01:46,226 I just can't imagine, I wonder if he got nervous. 952 01:01:47,594 --> 01:01:50,228 Is that possible? 953 01:01:50,230 --> 01:01:52,132 Oh, man. 954 01:01:52,465 --> 01:01:55,367 There's a lot of things that I don't totally understand about him. 955 01:01:55,369 --> 01:01:56,601 You know? 956 01:01:56,603 --> 01:01:57,969 Yeah, I know. 957 01:01:57,971 --> 01:02:02,275 I mean in some ways it'd be kind of reassuring that Spock has nerves. 958 01:02:13,519 --> 01:02:16,121 It was the first time I've ever gone up on something like real and 959 01:02:16,123 --> 01:02:17,923 then not done it. 960 01:02:17,925 --> 01:02:23,130 But it's also the first time I've ever gone up on something real with people all watching. 961 01:02:23,396 --> 01:02:27,001 By myself, I maybe would have just, like, persevered, I don't know, 962 01:02:27,568 --> 01:02:31,202 maybe I just suck, but, 963 01:02:31,204 --> 01:02:34,575 you know, at least I've like, at least I've tried. 964 01:02:57,431 --> 01:02:59,367 Thanks for meeting us again. 965 01:03:03,070 --> 01:03:06,972 It's funny, it always has a certain smell in here, and I wonder if it's 966 01:03:06,974 --> 01:03:08,405 the paint or the. 967 01:03:08,407 --> 01:03:10,911 Yeah, it's the fresh paint. 968 01:03:11,278 --> 01:03:14,248 Dining room with probably also bookshelves. 969 01:03:15,481 --> 01:03:17,081 Wait, so what am, what am I signing? 970 01:03:17,083 --> 01:03:19,351 "Buyers of unit approves the home inspection." 971 01:03:19,353 --> 01:03:24,488 Yeah, Alex told me I get one furniture question a day. 972 01:03:24,490 --> 01:03:26,458 I've always thought that I ought to buy a house, 973 01:03:26,460 --> 01:03:30,061 just haven't quite had the energy to make it all happen myself. 974 01:03:30,063 --> 01:03:32,630 I think Sanni will be stoked to have a place to live and there's so much 975 01:03:32,632 --> 01:03:35,135 climbing all around Vegas. 976 01:03:35,603 --> 01:03:40,942 Big sectional here and chair or like sofa and two chairs. 977 01:03:43,677 --> 01:03:46,380 Potential, like, bar area. 978 01:03:48,047 --> 01:03:49,680 I would just sleep straight on the carpet. 979 01:03:49,682 --> 01:03:51,952 It'd be like. 980 01:03:59,192 --> 01:04:03,293 Alex was a huge jerk watching me struggle with the tape measure, 981 01:04:03,295 --> 01:04:06,331 being an asshole standing by commenting on how stupid I look, 982 01:04:06,333 --> 01:04:10,635 but not actually offering to help or be productive or kind in any way. 983 01:04:10,637 --> 01:04:13,470 And so now it's all gone to shit. 984 01:04:13,472 --> 01:04:16,576 Yeah, you're asking about our domestic bliss, it's nonexistent. 985 01:04:17,411 --> 01:04:20,244 You're so angry, but it's cracking, it's cracking. 986 01:04:20,246 --> 01:04:21,445 It's not cracking. 987 01:04:21,447 --> 01:04:22,713 Yeah, it is, it's cracking. 988 01:04:22,715 --> 01:04:24,315 No, it's not, I'm still angry. 989 01:04:24,317 --> 01:04:25,617 I can tell you're cracking. 990 01:04:25,619 --> 01:04:27,151 I'm not cracking. 991 01:04:27,153 --> 01:04:28,720 But you're not that angry, you're cracking. 992 01:04:28,722 --> 01:04:30,387 I'm not cracking. 993 01:04:30,389 --> 01:04:32,456 This is firm resolve of hatred. 994 01:04:32,458 --> 01:04:34,661 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 995 01:04:36,063 --> 01:04:39,266 Oh, boy. 996 01:04:40,467 --> 01:04:43,200 That one seems very big and very wide. 997 01:04:43,202 --> 01:04:44,739 Oh. 998 01:04:46,472 --> 01:04:49,110 Whoa, that seems really deep. 999 01:04:50,643 --> 01:04:52,342 We should just ask somebody. 1000 01:04:52,344 --> 01:04:53,644 Hmm, I know. 1001 01:04:53,646 --> 01:04:55,079 Let's keep looking for the smaller ones. 1002 01:04:55,081 --> 01:04:56,414 Oh, this is the $400, that's. 1003 01:04:56,416 --> 01:04:57,682 That's it! 1004 01:04:57,684 --> 01:04:58,849 That's it, that's our jam. 1005 01:04:58,851 --> 01:05:00,351 This is actually, like, kind of perfect. 1006 01:05:00,353 --> 01:05:03,257 This is like so adequate. 1007 01:05:05,458 --> 01:05:06,825 We have a fridge! 1008 01:05:06,827 --> 01:05:09,764 - Hmm. - Yay! -That success. 1009 01:05:10,297 --> 01:05:11,829 Is it possible? 1010 01:05:11,831 --> 01:05:17,371 We had like a sort of a rough patch since Yosemite, where, I don't know, 1011 01:05:18,137 --> 01:05:22,108 Alex isn't super good about putting a name to how he's feeling. 1012 01:05:22,342 --> 01:05:25,142 So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but I don't really know why and I'm not gonna 1013 01:05:25,144 --> 01:05:27,614 take the time to figure it out." 1014 01:05:28,148 --> 01:05:31,182 I'm patient, but I also have self-respect. 1015 01:05:31,184 --> 01:05:35,256 And then, you know, the second that I start being mad, he's just like "foom." 1016 01:05:38,657 --> 01:05:40,224 How do you make coffee? 1017 01:05:40,226 --> 01:05:42,726 You need like a filter. 1018 01:05:42,728 --> 01:05:46,430 Definitely my relationship with Sanni is, like, the most healthy and stable 1019 01:05:46,432 --> 01:05:48,601 relationship I've ever had. 1020 01:05:48,934 --> 01:05:51,337 Oh, look at that, the only thing in the cupboard. 1021 01:05:51,938 --> 01:05:53,737 Certainly more communicative. 1022 01:05:53,739 --> 01:05:56,240 Even Sanni over the year and a half we've been dating is like, 1023 01:05:56,242 --> 01:05:58,275 "Wow, you've really blossomed." 1024 01:05:58,277 --> 01:05:59,945 Well, that's not really promising. 1025 01:05:59,947 --> 01:06:02,780 And you think you put the coffee in there and then you push the water through it? 1026 01:06:02,782 --> 01:06:04,148 I don't how to, um. 1027 01:06:04,150 --> 01:06:06,550 Hello, oh, my gosh, wow! 1028 01:06:06,552 --> 01:06:08,219 Oh, like, how's, why? 1029 01:06:08,221 --> 01:06:09,653 Is this what it is to be, um, a homeowner? 1030 01:06:09,655 --> 01:06:11,856 You get breakfast and coffee made for you every day? 1031 01:06:11,858 --> 01:06:14,492 I don't, I don't understand the, do you put the coffee in here and 1032 01:06:14,494 --> 01:06:15,559 then put the water to it? 1033 01:06:15,561 --> 01:06:16,793 It's really complicated. 1034 01:06:16,795 --> 01:06:19,500 But she sees things in a different way. 1035 01:06:19,699 --> 01:06:23,169 For Sanni the point of life is like happiness. 1036 01:06:23,369 --> 01:06:27,307 To be with people that make you feel fulfilled and to have a good time. 1037 01:06:27,608 --> 01:06:30,644 For me it's all about performance. 1038 01:06:31,077 --> 01:06:35,149 The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. 1039 01:06:35,349 --> 01:06:38,786 Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. 1040 01:06:40,887 --> 01:06:44,825 You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy. 1041 01:06:46,259 --> 01:06:50,697 You never wanna feel like you're getting in the way of someone's goal. 1042 01:06:51,565 --> 01:06:56,369 And it's really hard for me to grasp why he wants this. 1043 01:06:58,204 --> 01:07:02,876 But it's his dream and he obviously still really wants it. 1044 01:07:06,679 --> 01:07:09,847 It's about being a warrior. 1045 01:07:09,849 --> 01:07:12,849 It doesn't matter about the cause necessarily. 1046 01:07:12,851 --> 01:07:16,356 This is your path and you will pursue it with excellence. 1047 01:07:18,391 --> 01:07:21,327 You face your fear because your goal demands it. 1048 01:07:22,661 --> 01:07:26,500 That is the goddamn warrior spirit. 1049 01:07:27,132 --> 01:07:30,737 I think that the free soloing mentality is pretty close to warrior culture, 1050 01:07:31,704 --> 01:07:36,242 where you give something 100% focus because your life depends on it. 1051 01:08:06,539 --> 01:08:11,041 The move I gave up on in the fall was a right foot on this little edge right here, 1052 01:08:11,043 --> 01:08:15,315 and I basically just have to like stand on the right foot and just trust it. 1053 01:08:15,516 --> 01:08:18,583 And I was like, "I don't really wanna have my whole life depend on like standing 1054 01:08:18,585 --> 01:08:21,555 on this one right foot." 1055 01:08:22,822 --> 01:08:25,659 But maybe I can find another way. 1056 01:08:31,864 --> 01:08:35,469 I think this is like kind of the business of the whole deal, 1057 01:08:36,502 --> 01:08:39,803 which is interesting because if you're climbing with a rope it's not at all, 1058 01:08:39,805 --> 01:08:42,942 but without a rope it is. 1059 01:09:11,904 --> 01:09:17,543 That's my variation, I just don't know. 1060 01:09:26,086 --> 01:09:30,824 I think that he's only comfortable climbing in front of the camera or in front of 1061 01:09:31,090 --> 01:09:34,795 any other people when he's really confident and secure. 1062 01:09:35,395 --> 01:09:38,799 And that's been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right? 1063 01:09:39,032 --> 01:09:40,231 - Yeah. - From the beginning. 1064 01:09:40,233 --> 01:09:42,967 Our being there is always going to change things. 1065 01:09:42,969 --> 01:09:46,704 What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year. 1066 01:09:46,706 --> 01:09:50,511 He didn't feel the pressure to have to do it because we were there. 1067 01:09:51,677 --> 01:09:55,015 And I really, like that to me said a lot. 1068 01:09:55,914 --> 01:09:58,018 It meant a lot. 1069 01:10:15,402 --> 01:10:19,003 Is that what you'd want, us not to film it? 1070 01:10:19,005 --> 01:10:21,539 Hmm, no. 1071 01:10:21,541 --> 01:10:24,709 I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care 1072 01:10:24,711 --> 01:10:26,410 about it being filmed. 1073 01:10:26,412 --> 01:10:27,879 You know? 1074 01:10:27,881 --> 01:10:30,481 You could put your foot down at any time, and, and, you know. 1075 01:10:30,483 --> 01:10:31,982 Yeah, I mean, I'm aware of it. 1076 01:10:31,984 --> 01:10:33,750 Like, if I want to, I just won't tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it 1077 01:10:33,752 --> 01:10:34,951 on my own terms. 1078 01:10:34,953 --> 01:10:36,219 Yeah, exactly. 1079 01:10:36,221 --> 01:10:38,589 Like whatever, like I mean that's obviously on the table. 1080 01:10:38,591 --> 01:10:40,758 But obviously that would hose everybody, you know? 1081 01:10:40,760 --> 01:10:41,858 Yeah. 1082 01:10:41,860 --> 01:10:43,193 If you woke up tomorrow and you were like, 1083 01:10:43,195 --> 01:10:44,461 "You know what, screw all of this, 1084 01:10:44,463 --> 01:10:46,830 I just don't care enough, like I don't feel good enough." 1085 01:10:46,832 --> 01:10:48,333 You know, but that's like, yeah, 1086 01:10:48,335 --> 01:10:50,535 I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away. 1087 01:10:50,537 --> 01:10:55,476 But it's like, you know, I mean, you know, I don't want to. 1088 01:11:07,953 --> 01:11:11,656 Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation, 1089 01:11:11,658 --> 01:11:14,495 a higher level of confidence basically. 1090 01:11:14,694 --> 01:11:18,028 I need to like dial it in so much that, you know, it doesn't matter if there's 1091 01:11:18,030 --> 01:11:20,731 like a stadium of people watching me because it's so easy for me that I'm just like, 1092 01:11:20,733 --> 01:11:23,003 "Check this out." And just do it. 1093 01:11:24,436 --> 01:11:27,940 Pitch one, stay left towards the top, splitter, it feels more secure. 1094 01:11:28,975 --> 01:11:31,942 Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet, 1095 01:11:31,944 --> 01:11:33,577 right hand to the last under cling. 1096 01:11:33,579 --> 01:11:35,245 Eight, easy romp. Go fast. 1097 01:11:35,247 --> 01:11:38,583 Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks. 1098 01:11:38,585 --> 01:11:42,486 Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner, key left-hand pinch thing, 1099 01:11:42,488 --> 01:11:46,057 right foot back step on the lower edge, left foot faced against the wall, stand up. 1100 01:11:46,059 --> 01:11:49,963 Left hand to the huge ear jug thing, switch the feet, match the big jug, 1101 01:11:50,395 --> 01:11:53,897 left foot jams into the crack, then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the 1102 01:11:53,899 --> 01:11:57,535 jug, left hand goes into this flared slot thing, which you can either fist jam or hand 1103 01:11:57,537 --> 01:11:59,836 jam, either way, it's like a flare jam in the slot. 1104 01:11:59,838 --> 01:12:03,773 Sag down onto it, right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull. 1105 01:12:03,775 --> 01:12:06,910 Right foot sinks low to a flat edge, left foot steps through to an edge, 1106 01:12:06,912 --> 01:12:10,647 right foot back steps really high so you can sag your weight around the corner 1107 01:12:10,649 --> 01:12:12,215 without having to swing. 1108 01:12:12,217 --> 01:12:15,085 Left foot out to the big horn, right hand through to a little finger pocket, 1109 01:12:15,087 --> 01:12:18,255 you go left foot out to an edge around the corner, you can actually push all the way 1110 01:12:18,257 --> 01:12:20,657 into the corner, then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat, 1111 01:12:20,659 --> 01:12:22,360 like a small crimp. 1112 01:12:22,362 --> 01:12:24,861 Left hand to the other under cling, switch your feet on the rail and then just reach 1113 01:12:24,863 --> 01:12:27,166 through the jugs, and then it's done. 1114 01:12:27,399 --> 01:12:31,736 The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet, "trust" underline, 1115 01:12:31,738 --> 01:12:34,004 double exclamation point, period. 1116 01:12:34,006 --> 01:12:36,876 Autopilot. Period. 1117 01:12:56,828 --> 01:12:59,863 I mean, you know, it's not surprising that Ueli died. 1118 01:12:59,865 --> 01:13:03,567 Considering he's always doing crazy dangerous things, but I kind of thought 1119 01:13:03,569 --> 01:13:06,239 he was gonna survive. 1120 01:13:08,341 --> 01:13:13,744 Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs that you just kind of squeak out once. 1121 01:13:13,746 --> 01:13:17,150 You know I've always tried not to. 1122 01:13:17,350 --> 01:13:20,217 But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like, 1123 01:13:20,219 --> 01:13:22,852 "Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes that I just need to go squeak 1124 01:13:22,854 --> 01:13:25,992 out once and just like make sure it's my day." 1125 01:13:26,592 --> 01:13:30,029 You know, obviously it wasn't his day. 1126 01:13:39,204 --> 01:13:42,740 After Ueli died, it's interesting with Alex, how he justifies all that 1127 01:13:42,742 --> 01:13:45,045 stuff away so quickly. 1128 01:13:45,645 --> 01:13:47,878 He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he's like 1129 01:13:47,880 --> 01:13:50,317 "Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen." 1130 01:13:54,252 --> 01:13:56,821 I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this. 1131 01:13:56,823 --> 01:13:58,789 And I was like, "What if you die? 1132 01:13:58,791 --> 01:14:02,326 Like what if you die just like Ueli died?" 1133 01:14:02,328 --> 01:14:06,263 Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship and they 1134 01:14:06,265 --> 01:14:08,933 would climb together. 1135 01:14:08,935 --> 01:14:13,303 Alex said at one point, "Well, what did she expect?" 1136 01:14:13,305 --> 01:14:17,043 And I got, I was like, "What do you mean what did she expect?" 1137 01:14:17,877 --> 01:14:23,783 I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex! And I don't expect that." 1138 01:14:24,283 --> 01:14:27,718 Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of 1139 01:14:27,720 --> 01:14:32,857 the most likely to die, but I know he's gonna do it. 1140 01:14:32,859 --> 01:14:36,630 So I'd like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can. 1141 01:14:38,864 --> 01:14:40,099 Oh, shit. 1142 01:14:40,432 --> 01:14:44,434 If he went to solo it and fell and died, and I hadn't helped him prepare 1143 01:14:44,436 --> 01:14:46,003 that would be harder for me. 1144 01:14:46,005 --> 01:14:49,040 Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of the people that's gonna be able to do 1145 01:14:49,042 --> 01:14:51,912 that the best with him and so, I should. 1146 01:14:59,786 --> 01:15:03,823 He said he's feeling tinges of, of like game time. 1147 01:15:05,457 --> 01:15:08,161 I think there's a chance he goes tomorrow. 1148 01:15:12,198 --> 01:15:16,267 They are remote cameras, because we wanna stay out of Alex's 1149 01:15:16,269 --> 01:15:18,238 line of sight when he's doing it. 1150 01:15:21,106 --> 01:15:23,907 Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong. 1151 01:15:23,909 --> 01:15:26,646 Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call? 1152 01:15:28,046 --> 01:15:30,313 The easiest thing would just be 911. 1153 01:15:30,315 --> 01:15:34,086 And that we will get kicked into gear and tell them what you know. 1154 01:15:34,487 --> 01:15:35,820 A climber. 1155 01:15:35,822 --> 01:15:37,754 Yeah. 1156 01:15:37,756 --> 01:15:40,826 All right, no mistakes tomorrow. 1157 01:15:51,304 --> 01:15:55,371 I'm worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know, 1158 01:15:55,373 --> 01:15:59,278 like Alex's existence will be over. 1159 01:16:01,046 --> 01:16:05,014 I was like, "Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and 1160 01:16:05,016 --> 01:16:08,755 I have to realize that that is a real possibility." 1161 01:16:13,192 --> 01:16:15,162 Oh, God. 1162 01:16:24,871 --> 01:16:28,304 Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye? 1163 01:16:28,306 --> 01:16:31,075 - Oh, is it time? -Yeah. - Oh. 1164 01:16:31,077 --> 01:16:34,014 But you don't have to stand up, but you have to sit up. 1165 01:16:34,381 --> 01:16:38,018 Oh, you could've just left me. 1166 01:16:39,417 --> 01:16:43,089 No, no, I'm never gonna go. 1167 01:16:44,055 --> 01:16:46,322 Okay, drive safe. 1168 01:16:46,324 --> 01:16:49,962 Ciao, see you later! 1169 01:17:06,078 --> 01:17:08,312 I mean, I didn't ask her to leave. 1170 01:17:08,314 --> 01:17:10,013 I mean, I would never ask her to leave. 1171 01:17:10,015 --> 01:17:14,985 But, you know, I think she kind of understands that, that it's probably easier for 1172 01:17:14,987 --> 01:17:18,158 me if she's gone. 1173 01:17:20,126 --> 01:17:22,860 I don't, I, the whole like saying goodbye thing I'm like 1174 01:17:22,862 --> 01:17:25,929 "I'll probably see her in like five days or something." 1175 01:17:25,931 --> 01:17:28,434 It's not like goodbye, it's just goodbye for a few days. 1176 01:17:34,140 --> 01:17:37,575 You know, I mean there's just that like weird thought of like, 1177 01:17:37,577 --> 01:17:41,381 don't freaking let that be our last hug or whatever. 1178 01:17:46,085 --> 01:17:50,055 You know, like I shouldn't be having that thought... 1179 01:17:54,159 --> 01:17:57,797 of like "What if something happens? 1180 01:17:58,064 --> 01:18:01,334 Like what if I don't see him again?" 1181 01:18:02,868 --> 01:18:05,936 You know, like, "Why do you wanna do this? 1182 01:18:05,938 --> 01:18:09,442 Like it's a totally crazy goal." 1183 01:19:43,636 --> 01:19:45,436 Hey, Jimmy, do you copy? 1184 01:19:45,438 --> 01:19:47,574 This is Jimmy. 1185 01:19:49,542 --> 01:19:52,012 He just started climbing. 1186 01:20:29,681 --> 01:20:32,549 It is so slippery right there. 1187 01:20:32,551 --> 01:20:34,421 This is where he bailed. 1188 01:21:32,711 --> 01:21:36,546 Mikey, do you copy? This is Jimmy. 1189 01:21:36,548 --> 01:21:38,749 Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey. 1190 01:21:38,751 --> 01:21:42,155 Can you let me know when he's through the slab pitch? 1191 01:21:43,288 --> 01:21:45,522 He's through the slab pitch. 1192 01:21:45,524 --> 01:21:47,657 He's through it? 1193 01:21:47,659 --> 01:21:50,296 Yup, he's almost at half dollar. 1194 01:21:50,828 --> 01:21:53,233 He's moving fast. 1195 01:21:54,367 --> 01:21:58,570 Yes, Jimmy, he is of course ahead of schedule. 1196 01:22:01,172 --> 01:22:03,208 So how far is he from Mammoth? 1197 01:22:04,310 --> 01:22:06,279 Doing the half dollar right now. 1198 01:22:23,561 --> 01:22:26,498 6:21 he's down climbing to Heart Ledge there's a party, 1199 01:22:27,533 --> 01:22:29,836 in a Porter Ledge still. 1200 01:22:32,637 --> 01:22:35,408 They're awake and there's, they're aware. 1201 01:22:36,007 --> 01:22:38,744 They're like "Here comes Honnold." Oh, my God. 1202 01:22:39,778 --> 01:22:42,815 A Dude in a bunny suit. 1203 01:22:46,685 --> 01:22:48,552 The person is getting up now. 1204 01:22:48,554 --> 01:22:50,553 Uh yeah, no there's a tail. 1205 01:22:50,555 --> 01:22:56,695 This person has a tail and it's either a chicken head or a bunny. 1206 01:22:57,229 --> 01:22:59,432 Oh, it's a unicorn. 1207 01:22:59,631 --> 01:23:01,768 Come on. Who does that? 1208 01:23:02,935 --> 01:23:05,538 I've never seen that on El Cap. 1209 01:23:06,337 --> 01:23:09,673 Wow, and Alex is gone. 1210 01:23:09,675 --> 01:23:12,512 Okay, so he's entering the Hollow Flake at 6:49. 1211 01:23:12,878 --> 01:23:16,515 He just did the Hollow Flake down climb and is in the Hollow Flake now. 1212 01:23:21,654 --> 01:23:25,688 And then the thing about Free Rider is that from the base of Hollow Flake 1213 01:23:25,690 --> 01:23:29,429 it's one crack system all the way to the top which is like what, 2,000 feet? 1214 01:23:31,963 --> 01:23:35,768 That's the most magnificent crack on planet earth. 1215 01:23:43,641 --> 01:23:45,041 Doug, this is Jimmy. 1216 01:23:45,043 --> 01:23:48,448 Do you know if they've radioed if he's gotten to the Monster yet? 1217 01:23:50,349 --> 01:23:52,185 Yeah, he's there now. 1218 01:24:24,984 --> 01:24:28,655 He's almost through it. 1219 01:24:42,033 --> 01:24:44,901 There, he's coming up now actually. 1220 01:24:44,903 --> 01:24:47,903 Now we see him like at the same height as the spire. 1221 01:24:47,905 --> 01:24:50,976 But you guys are all in position ready to go? 1222 01:24:51,844 --> 01:24:56,248 Yeah, Sam and I are at the bottom of the head wall. 1223 01:24:56,748 --> 01:25:01,220 My guess is he's 15 minutes from the Boulder Problem or so. 1224 01:26:35,447 --> 01:26:39,418 He just did the karate kick. 1225 01:26:41,119 --> 01:26:42,921 He's got it. 1226 01:26:47,626 --> 01:26:49,494 Oh, yeah. 1227 01:26:51,063 --> 01:26:52,896 That is way too gnarly. 1228 01:26:52,898 --> 01:26:55,702 - Oh, my God. - He did it. Jesus. 1229 01:26:58,136 --> 01:27:00,539 He just sent the boulder problem. 1230 01:27:01,573 --> 01:27:04,577 He must be so stoked. 1231 01:27:05,109 --> 01:27:07,846 I mean to have the slabs and the boulder problem behind him is monumental. 1232 01:27:12,885 --> 01:27:16,722 - Here's the Enduro huh? - Yup, this is the Enduro. 1233 01:27:53,091 --> 01:27:56,829 I can't believe you guys are actually gonna watch. 1234 01:27:57,195 --> 01:28:00,832 Oh, I don't wanna, I don't, I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no. 1235 01:28:23,889 --> 01:28:26,659 Oh, my God. 1236 01:28:34,533 --> 01:28:36,633 Yeah, that's kind of exposed right there. 1237 01:28:36,635 --> 01:28:39,872 Oh, my God, it's so exposed. 1238 01:28:40,171 --> 01:28:42,873 That arĂȘte move as he stepped around has gotta be, 1239 01:28:42,875 --> 01:28:44,241 I mean that's one of the most exposed moves 1240 01:28:44,243 --> 01:28:48,010 like anywhere on El Cap. 1241 01:28:48,012 --> 01:28:50,515 If you just step out, it all drops away. 1242 01:29:43,734 --> 01:29:45,837 Yeah, buddy. 1243 01:29:46,505 --> 01:29:49,738 Alex is having the best day of his life. 1244 01:29:49,740 --> 01:29:52,578 I don't know. Not me. 1245 01:29:52,778 --> 01:29:57,250 I'm done, yeah, no, this is it, I don't, we don't need to do this again. 1246 01:30:01,886 --> 01:30:03,054 Yeah, no. 1247 01:32:07,078 --> 01:32:09,381 It's over now. 1248 01:32:13,752 --> 01:32:18,356 Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo! 1249 01:32:19,957 --> 01:32:21,424 Oh, God. 1250 01:32:21,426 --> 01:32:24,030 Oh, God, wow. 1251 01:32:25,197 --> 01:32:29,068 Oh, my God, I can't believe what I just witnessed. 1252 01:33:07,471 --> 01:33:11,174 Oh, God. 1253 01:33:11,176 --> 01:33:13,412 Good to see you again, yay. 1254 01:33:14,212 --> 01:33:17,049 Wow! 1255 01:33:19,384 --> 01:33:22,020 So delighted. 1256 01:33:22,554 --> 01:33:25,725 That felt so good, it's freaking raged. 1257 01:33:26,591 --> 01:33:29,894 Like a gigantic weight off of my shoulders too. 1258 01:33:30,529 --> 01:33:33,199 I have to admit, I mean. 1259 01:33:33,865 --> 01:33:38,804 So delighted, what a journey. 1260 01:33:39,671 --> 01:33:45,010 Yeah, I just can't even believe after eight years of dreaming, 1261 01:33:47,212 --> 01:33:50,213 oh San-san's calling me. 1262 01:33:50,215 --> 01:33:51,981 Hello? 1263 01:33:55,052 --> 01:33:56,686 Yeah, so delighted. 1264 01:33:56,688 --> 01:33:59,522 Oh my, you're so delighted, that's putting it lightly. 1265 01:33:59,524 --> 01:34:02,558 I've like never smiled so much. Don't say anything too. 1266 01:34:02,560 --> 01:34:04,994 I wanna see it. What's that? 1267 01:34:04,996 --> 01:34:07,397 Like, I told you I wanted to see that smile. 1268 01:34:07,399 --> 01:34:09,165 Yeah, I know. 1269 01:34:09,167 --> 01:34:12,434 I've like never cried so hard and I didn't even see it coming. 1270 01:34:12,436 --> 01:34:16,074 Showing that you talk now, I was just like "Blah." 1271 01:34:16,475 --> 01:34:18,273 Yeah, no, I'm, I'm sort of at, 1272 01:34:18,275 --> 01:34:21,180 at risk of crying here too, I'm like, I feel quite emotional. 1273 01:34:21,747 --> 01:34:25,117 Yeah, no, don't cry San-san it will make me cry. 1274 01:34:26,350 --> 01:34:28,853 But Claire says cry it. 1275 01:34:29,119 --> 01:34:31,353 I think the movie would be better if I burst into tears, but I, 1276 01:34:31,355 --> 01:34:32,921 I don't really want to. 1277 01:34:32,923 --> 01:34:35,023 But, well I do want to kind of, but. 1278 01:34:35,025 --> 01:34:37,593 I'm so happy. 1279 01:34:37,595 --> 01:34:39,027 Oh, God. 1280 01:34:39,029 --> 01:34:41,129 I'm so happy. 1281 01:34:41,131 --> 01:34:42,965 Yeah. 1282 01:34:42,967 --> 01:34:45,904 I'm so happy. 1283 01:34:47,037 --> 01:34:48,271 Well, okay. 1284 01:34:48,273 --> 01:34:51,374 I'll see you, I'll see you in like six hours or something. 1285 01:34:51,376 --> 01:34:53,610 And I'll see you soon, yeah. 1286 01:34:53,612 --> 01:34:55,378 Yeah, okay, I love you. 1287 01:34:55,380 --> 01:34:57,280 Thank you so much, I appreciate you. 1288 01:34:57,282 --> 01:34:58,380 I love you too. 1289 01:34:58,382 --> 01:34:59,949 You're, you're the best. 1290 01:34:59,951 --> 01:35:01,550 And I appreciate you and I'm really proud of you. 1291 01:35:01,552 --> 01:35:03,122 Yay. 1292 01:35:04,555 --> 01:35:05,888 I don't know. 1293 01:35:05,890 --> 01:35:07,389 I don't, I don't think the mountain looked that scary this morning. 1294 01:35:07,391 --> 01:35:10,526 It's funny because it does look the same and hiking up looked the same, 1295 01:35:10,528 --> 01:35:12,661 everything just felt pretty much the same, except I just didn't have 1296 01:35:12,663 --> 01:35:15,098 much of a backpack. 1297 01:35:15,100 --> 01:35:17,299 I did, I forgot my rope and rack. 1298 01:35:17,301 --> 01:35:18,902 I felt so good. 1299 01:35:18,904 --> 01:35:21,403 I mean that's why I'm so happy that the experience was like what I hoped for. 1300 01:35:21,405 --> 01:35:23,973 I didn't compromise on any of the things that were super important to me. 1301 01:35:23,975 --> 01:35:26,345 Huh, yeah, that felt good. 1302 01:35:27,112 --> 01:35:28,911 All right. 1303 01:35:28,913 --> 01:35:31,349 So what's next, what are you gonna do Alex? 1304 01:35:31,550 --> 01:35:33,116 Mmm, I'm probably gonna hang board. 1305 01:35:33,118 --> 01:35:34,587 You're gonna hang board? 1306 01:35:35,253 --> 01:35:38,356 A normal person would probably take the afternoon off. 1307 01:35:49,935 --> 01:35:51,968 Thanks again for coming out and climbing with me. 1308 01:35:51,970 --> 01:35:53,303 I'm really proud of you. 1309 01:35:53,305 --> 01:35:55,507 Good work not plummeting to your death. 1310 01:35:56,307 --> 01:35:58,077 Really glad it's over. 1311 01:35:59,377 --> 01:36:03,182 Oh, my gosh, you're here, oh, my God! 1312 01:36:05,283 --> 01:36:09,288 Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy for you, you did it and you're done. 1313 01:36:11,256 --> 01:36:13,322 You know some of the people that have come before you, 1314 01:36:13,324 --> 01:36:15,991 they, they didn't quit while they were ahead. 1315 01:36:15,993 --> 01:36:17,393 Maybe it's good. 1316 01:36:17,395 --> 01:36:19,999 Maybe I don't need to keep charging ahead. 1317 01:36:20,498 --> 01:36:23,499 Right now there's some kid that just read about El Cap being soloed and he's like. 1318 01:36:23,501 --> 01:36:25,000 "What's bigger?" 1319 01:36:25,002 --> 01:36:26,535 Like "What's cooler?" 1320 01:36:26,537 --> 01:36:29,339 And I mean somebody's gonna think of something and it's gonna be cooler. 1321 01:36:29,341 --> 01:36:33,512 But I don't know if that will be me. Maybe, I don't know. 1322 01:36:39,007 --> 01:36:44,007 Subtitles by explosiveskull 114693

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