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1
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Right.
2
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Hi. How are you?
3
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I'm scared.
4
00:00:07,440 --> 00:00:09,600
Have you ever had any Botox
or fillers?
5
00:00:09,600 --> 00:00:11,200
Mm-mm. OK. All right.
6
00:00:11,200 --> 00:00:14,720
You know, the most place where
people start is they do just a
little bit of Botox. Yeah.
7
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I'm in the City of Angels chasing
that age-old cliche -
8
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eternal youth and beauty.
9
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Do you want to do any Botox today?
10
00:00:22,080 --> 00:00:24,480
Hmm, good question.
11
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Why do I feel like
I need to do this?
12
00:00:28,120 --> 00:00:31,520
Well, we live in a world where
beauty, especially for women,
13
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can lead to success, fame,
and money.
14
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Yet today's beauty ideals
15
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are almost
impossible to reach naturally.
16
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When I was a teenager and I saw
these, like, billboards of myself,
17
00:00:41,960 --> 00:00:44,320
which clearly were, like,
photoshopped and whatever,
18
00:00:44,320 --> 00:00:46,680
I think it probably messes with your
head a little bit.
19
00:00:46,680 --> 00:00:50,400
Cos if you look in the mirror
and you're like, "Wait,
I don't look like that at all."
20
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Yes, you've got to be tall,
slim, yet curvy.
21
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Definitely no wrinkles.
22
00:00:55,560 --> 00:00:57,840
Oh, and it really helps to be white.
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I started getting bullied in school,
in my community.
24
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I want to know how we got here.
25
00:01:03,560 --> 00:01:07,000
What forces shape our ideas
of what's gorgeous?
26
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Can't I have both?
27
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Could I and the world of beauty,
fashion and social media
28
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be part of the problem?
29
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People will literally destroy their
lives over trying to be beautiful.
30
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And how can we hit back
and reclaim beauty for ourselves?
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This is real modelling.
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Ah!
33
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Beauty is such a fun thing to be
able to play with,
34
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but the point is, is that everyone
should be able to play with it.
35
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Everyone should be able to
feel beautiful.
36
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Oh, my God, I hate this one.
37
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I...I. no, I didn't,
38
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I didn't feel beautiful
when I was young, no.
39
00:01:54,440 --> 00:01:56,160
I felt very weird.
40
00:02:00,520 --> 00:02:03,400
So this is me and my family.
41
00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:04,840
These are my sisters.
42
00:02:04,840 --> 00:02:07,240
Look how pretty and happy
and perfect they look
43
00:02:07,240 --> 00:02:09,200
and just...just gorgeous.
44
00:02:09,200 --> 00:02:11,200
And then what is that? What is that?
45
00:02:12,480 --> 00:02:14,400
Oh, God,
you've got a bug on your windscreen.
46
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Like who is that? Why?
47
00:02:16,600 --> 00:02:19,680
If that came out of you you'd be
scared, right.
48
00:02:19,680 --> 00:02:21,480
SHE LAUGHS LOUDLY
49
00:02:25,360 --> 00:02:27,120
Look at that. What is that?
50
00:02:34,480 --> 00:02:36,160
I mean, looking at these photos,
51
00:02:36,160 --> 00:02:39,160
when I was younger I just definitely
felt more like I was out of place
52
00:02:39,160 --> 00:02:41,320
and, like, wasn't, didn't belong.
53
00:02:42,840 --> 00:02:45,440
Just a lot of rejection
when I started modelling
54
00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:48,160
because I was too short,
or my eyebrows were too big.
55
00:02:48,160 --> 00:02:49,920
Eyebrows were not a thing back then.
56
00:02:49,920 --> 00:02:52,320
They would always try and bleach
them or stick them down
57
00:02:52,320 --> 00:02:54,720
and they would
just never stick down.
58
00:02:55,880 --> 00:02:59,040
You know, as a model, of course,
I mean, there were parts of me,
59
00:02:59,040 --> 00:03:01,240
of course I felt beautiful
sometimes or pretty,
60
00:03:01,240 --> 00:03:03,360
but it was always through
the eyes of other people.
61
00:03:04,320 --> 00:03:08,760
I know that in this film I'll have
to take a long hard look at myself.
62
00:03:08,760 --> 00:03:10,040
I'm white.
63
00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:12,640
I'm a size and shape that sells.
64
00:03:12,640 --> 00:03:16,360
For a long time I've been a classic
example
65
00:03:16,360 --> 00:03:18,880
of those elitist beauty standards.
66
00:03:18,880 --> 00:03:22,080
Now I want to explore how
things are changing.
67
00:03:27,880 --> 00:03:31,160
My journey starts in the world that
made me famous
68
00:03:31,160 --> 00:03:34,800
and I'm meeting someone who is
challenging its very core.
69
00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:38,560
This is Nyakim Gatwech,
70
00:03:38,560 --> 00:03:40,400
aka Queen of Dark...
71
00:03:41,480 --> 00:03:43,440
..a model who's had to fight tooth
and nail
72
00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:45,720
to break into the fashion
industry.
73
00:03:52,040 --> 00:03:55,600
Planet Sex marker selfie one.
74
00:03:57,360 --> 00:04:00,000
Look so it's like...
But how do you do that?
75
00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:01,080
You look...
76
00:04:03,880 --> 00:04:05,400
But that's what I do.
77
00:04:05,400 --> 00:04:06,840
I love it, I love it.
78
00:04:06,840 --> 00:04:08,560
I mean, I have so many questions,
79
00:04:08,560 --> 00:04:10,920
but first off, tell me
a bit about yourself.
80
00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:12,960
I was born in a refugee
camp in South Sudan.
81
00:04:12,960 --> 00:04:15,360
Came to America when I was 15
82
00:04:15,360 --> 00:04:17,800
and I always knew that
I had a passion for fashion
83
00:04:17,800 --> 00:04:19,840
but I didn't know how to go
about it.
84
00:04:19,840 --> 00:04:22,840
I started getting bullied in school,
in my community.
85
00:04:22,840 --> 00:04:24,760
Yeah, why?
And you know, at the grocery store.
86
00:04:24,760 --> 00:04:26,960
Cos, you know,
just being different, you know,
87
00:04:26,960 --> 00:04:29,960
just having this complexion, you
know, people started calling
me names.
88
00:04:29,960 --> 00:04:31,280
I hated myself.
89
00:04:31,280 --> 00:04:32,960
I didn't think I was beautiful.
90
00:04:32,960 --> 00:04:35,760
I didn't think I'd fit in in this
beauty standard,
91
00:04:35,760 --> 00:04:37,360
the western world standard.
92
00:04:37,360 --> 00:04:39,240
It's not me.
It didn't look like me.
93
00:04:39,240 --> 00:04:41,360
So... But that standard is bullshit.
Yeah.
94
00:04:42,760 --> 00:04:45,200
It literally is bullshit.
It really is.
95
00:04:45,200 --> 00:04:47,360
I know what she means.
96
00:04:47,360 --> 00:04:51,360
As a young model, I saw very little
diversity on the catwalk.
97
00:04:51,360 --> 00:04:54,640
When I first started every single
person down a runway
98
00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:56,280
looked the same.
99
00:04:56,280 --> 00:04:59,400
Looked the same. And it became like
this army-like girl.
Body type too.
100
00:04:59,400 --> 00:05:01,400
Body type, everything.
That body type.
101
00:05:01,400 --> 00:05:03,040
I think it's changing.
It's changing.
102
00:05:03,040 --> 00:05:05,640
But not fast enough.
103
00:05:05,640 --> 00:05:07,320
It's still not fair.
104
00:05:07,320 --> 00:05:10,200
There's still not the same equal
opportunities. Exactly.
105
00:05:11,960 --> 00:05:14,440
As recently as 2016,
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00:05:14,440 --> 00:05:18,600
over 75% of the models at all four
big fashion weeks -
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00:05:18,600 --> 00:05:21,120
London, Paris, New York and Milan -
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were white.
109
00:05:22,760 --> 00:05:24,840
Like, when did you first start
meeting agents
110
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and what would the...
What was the look like?
111
00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:28,800
I mean, what was that
experience like? Well...
112
00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:31,320
I'd go see these agencies,
that's when there was like,
113
00:05:31,320 --> 00:05:33,720
"Yeah, we already have a girl that
looks like you."
114
00:05:33,720 --> 00:05:36,600
Literally they told me
the name of the girl.
115
00:05:36,600 --> 00:05:39,640
Like, how was they saying there's
already someone that looks like you?
116
00:05:39,640 --> 00:05:41,600
Like, there are too many white
people.
117
00:05:41,600 --> 00:05:44,040
Hello, there's so many people that
look the same.
118
00:05:44,040 --> 00:05:45,600
Are you ready? Are you serious?
119
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Like, that makes no sense.
It doesn't make no sense.
120
00:05:47,920 --> 00:05:49,720
That's when I was like, "You know
what?
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00:05:49,720 --> 00:05:52,760
If you really want to do this,
you have to create your own lane."
Yes.
122
00:05:54,040 --> 00:05:57,280
Nyakim decided to bypass
the fashion industry
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00:05:57,280 --> 00:05:59,360
and their old-school ideas of beauty
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and do it alone,
125
00:06:00,680 --> 00:06:03,440
collaborating with photographers to
raise her profile
126
00:06:03,440 --> 00:06:05,960
through self-funded shoots.
127
00:06:05,960 --> 00:06:08,440
I got lucky enough and went
viral on Instagram, you know,
128
00:06:08,440 --> 00:06:11,680
and I was able to take that
opportunity and I've been running
with it ever since.
129
00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:16,280
She now has more than a million
followers on Instagram
130
00:06:16,280 --> 00:06:18,840
and has starred in campaigns for
Savage X Fenty
131
00:06:18,840 --> 00:06:20,920
as well as L'Oreal Paris.
132
00:06:20,920 --> 00:06:24,040
Nyakim's now at the forefront
of what seems to be
133
00:06:24,040 --> 00:06:26,480
some real change in the
fashion industry.
134
00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,400
In Spring 2022,
135
00:06:31,400 --> 00:06:33,320
48% of models appearing
136
00:06:33,320 --> 00:06:37,120
in the four big fashion weeks
were non-white.
137
00:06:37,120 --> 00:06:40,640
I don't want another little black
girl to go through the jou...
what I went through.
138
00:06:40,640 --> 00:06:44,000
No. I want them
to just be accepted if they...
139
00:06:44,000 --> 00:06:45,680
..if this is what they want to do.
140
00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:48,840
Modelling gives you a platform where
you could use modelling
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00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:51,160
to inspire other people to
make a change.
142
00:06:51,160 --> 00:06:53,440
I want to be somehow a little bit,
143
00:06:53,440 --> 00:06:55,640
however tiny it is, some
change in this world.
144
00:06:55,640 --> 00:06:59,400
That's what I want. That's always...
But I didn't think that.
Yeah, that's what I want.
145
00:06:59,400 --> 00:07:03,240
And I didn't think that I have that.
But you've done it already, but
that's still the beginning.
146
00:07:03,240 --> 00:07:05,880
You're still just at the beginning
of all of that. Thank you.
147
00:07:05,880 --> 00:07:08,360
No, don't thank me, thank you.
148
00:07:08,360 --> 00:07:10,680
Do you think you're beautiful now?
No!
149
00:07:10,680 --> 00:07:12,320
Exactly.
150
00:07:14,840 --> 00:07:18,440
She is the epitome of a supermodel,
of a superhuman,
151
00:07:18,440 --> 00:07:21,920
of the type of person that is what
a model should represent.
152
00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:26,200
How someone that sweet who's gone
through so much
153
00:07:26,200 --> 00:07:28,080
has been treated like that
154
00:07:28,080 --> 00:07:30,840
and ever thought the things
that she did.
155
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It's completely insane.
156
00:07:35,920 --> 00:07:39,400
Nyakim's tough journey is a stark
contrast to my own
157
00:07:39,400 --> 00:07:42,720
and really brings home how
easy I've had it.
158
00:07:42,720 --> 00:07:44,840
Modelling became an option
when, you know,
159
00:07:44,840 --> 00:07:47,560
I didn't really have any others,
which sounds so spoiled.
160
00:07:47,560 --> 00:07:50,720
My sister was a model, right,
and I, for me I was like,
"But I'm..."
161
00:07:50,720 --> 00:07:52,480
My sisters were both really tall
162
00:07:52,480 --> 00:07:55,040
and they were, like, classically
very beautiful looking.
163
00:07:55,040 --> 00:07:57,320
I had an opportunity to work with
the same agency,
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00:07:57,320 --> 00:07:59,040
probably nepotism in so many ways.
165
00:07:59,040 --> 00:08:02,600
That's also just being like a very
privileged white girl,
166
00:08:02,600 --> 00:08:04,800
you know, that
I was able to even do modelling.
167
00:08:04,800 --> 00:08:06,040
I had dropped out of school.
168
00:08:06,040 --> 00:08:10,040
Like, the fact that I've, that was
my only available job was pretty
lucky.
169
00:08:11,200 --> 00:08:13,600
I can't run away from the fact
that I fit
170
00:08:13,600 --> 00:08:17,400
that narrow and exclusive idea of
what's beautiful.
171
00:08:17,400 --> 00:08:21,600
But where do these so-called beauty
standards even come from?
172
00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:26,040
Pepe, sit.
173
00:08:26,040 --> 00:08:29,240
Well, what we find attractive
is at a basic level
174
00:08:29,240 --> 00:08:30,680
down to evolution
175
00:08:30,680 --> 00:08:33,720
our ancestors searched
for the healthiest partners
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to make the healthiest babies.
177
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In today's speedy dating world,
it's the same.
178
00:08:40,200 --> 00:08:41,960
When meeting for the first time,
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we're naturally drawn to the
physical signs of fitness
180
00:08:44,400 --> 00:08:45,840
and fertility.
181
00:08:46,840 --> 00:08:48,480
Oh, we're not meant to touch.
182
00:08:48,480 --> 00:08:49,680
I'm so confused.
183
00:08:49,680 --> 00:08:53,040
Am I meant to, like, kiss her hand
or what am I meant to do?
Start again.
184
00:08:54,600 --> 00:08:56,320
I'm nervous.
185
00:08:56,320 --> 00:08:58,840
In women, these include a young face
186
00:08:58,840 --> 00:09:00,680
with big eyes and bow lips,
187
00:09:00,680 --> 00:09:04,160
a tiny waist and child-bearing
hips.
188
00:09:04,160 --> 00:09:05,960
In men, height,
189
00:09:05,960 --> 00:09:08,240
broad shoulders and a strong jaw.
190
00:09:10,040 --> 00:09:13,480
But what we find hot is about more
than just healthy genes.
191
00:09:13,480 --> 00:09:15,760
It's also shaped by our environment.
192
00:09:19,440 --> 00:09:21,280
What a list of bachelors.
193
00:09:21,280 --> 00:09:22,560
Yeah, I know.
194
00:09:22,560 --> 00:09:23,720
LAUGHTER
195
00:09:23,720 --> 00:09:26,920
Ah, where am I going to
find my perfect partner?
196
00:09:26,920 --> 00:09:28,280
Oh, wait.
197
00:09:28,280 --> 00:09:30,840
This hairy little butthole behind
me.
198
00:09:35,600 --> 00:09:38,800
Dr Carlota Batres studies faces.
199
00:09:38,800 --> 00:09:41,080
She explores the relationship
200
00:09:41,080 --> 00:09:42,840
between those we find attractive
201
00:09:42,840 --> 00:09:45,320
and the culture we grew up in.
202
00:09:45,320 --> 00:09:48,360
So I signed up to take
one of her tests.
203
00:09:48,360 --> 00:09:50,360
Eeh! Should I be scared?
204
00:09:50,360 --> 00:09:52,240
I'm going to show you some faces
today
205
00:09:52,240 --> 00:09:54,440
and I'm going to ask you some
questions
206
00:09:54,440 --> 00:09:56,480
about how you feel about
these faces.
207
00:09:56,480 --> 00:09:59,400
I don't think
I judge people very well,
so let's see what happens.
208
00:10:01,080 --> 00:10:03,480
Carlota takes
computer-generated faces,
209
00:10:03,480 --> 00:10:07,120
manipulates certain features,
then asks people to rate them.
210
00:10:09,360 --> 00:10:11,720
So, who do you find more attractive?
211
00:10:14,280 --> 00:10:16,800
I would tend to usually go
for the more masculine man.
212
00:10:16,800 --> 00:10:20,400
You were right that we are
manipulating masculinity here.
213
00:10:20,400 --> 00:10:24,520
Traditionally, more masculine
features include bushy eyebrows,
214
00:10:24,520 --> 00:10:27,520
a wider nose, and a stronger chin.
215
00:10:27,520 --> 00:10:28,840
Bigger eyebrows, yeah.
216
00:10:28,840 --> 00:10:30,800
So, technically,
I have a man-y face.
217
00:10:30,800 --> 00:10:33,000
You have masculine eyebrows, yes.
218
00:10:33,000 --> 00:10:37,160
You'd think most people like me
would go for a more masculine face,
219
00:10:37,160 --> 00:10:39,640
but the results were surprising.
220
00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:44,120
So, 65% of the participants
in our sample chose
221
00:10:44,120 --> 00:10:46,760
the more feminine face
as more attractive.
222
00:10:46,760 --> 00:10:48,720
But these were participants
in the US.
223
00:10:50,800 --> 00:10:55,360
Carlota's study involved both
male and female participants.
224
00:10:55,360 --> 00:10:59,200
And the results differ depending
on what country they were from.
225
00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:03,160
If I would've run the study in
my home country of El Salvador,
226
00:11:03,160 --> 00:11:06,360
I would've found that the
majority of participants find
227
00:11:06,360 --> 00:11:08,240
the more masculine face attractive.
228
00:11:09,440 --> 00:11:12,560
This is not because people
in El Salvador have a "thang"
229
00:11:12,560 --> 00:11:15,080
for bushy eyebrows.
230
00:11:15,080 --> 00:11:18,280
Subconsciously, our brains
are making snap judgments
231
00:11:18,280 --> 00:11:20,040
about future partners.
232
00:11:20,040 --> 00:11:22,680
So, there's this link between
masculinity and health.
233
00:11:22,680 --> 00:11:25,240
So if you're in a country
with higher health risks,
234
00:11:25,240 --> 00:11:27,080
then there's a stronger preference
235
00:11:27,080 --> 00:11:29,160
for the more masculine,
healthier face.
236
00:11:31,040 --> 00:11:34,920
Right, so that explains why people
in low-health-risk countries,
237
00:11:34,920 --> 00:11:39,160
like the US,
lean towards a more feminine face.
238
00:11:39,160 --> 00:11:41,360
They don't have
to select for health.
239
00:11:41,360 --> 00:11:42,560
OK, let's do another one.
240
00:11:42,560 --> 00:11:44,360
Which one do you find
more attractive?
241
00:11:44,360 --> 00:11:46,440
Oh, they're both very pretty.
242
00:11:46,440 --> 00:11:48,680
SHE LAUGHS
Can't I have both?
243
00:11:49,760 --> 00:11:52,760
Someone who has a wider face
and someone who has a smaller face.
244
00:11:52,760 --> 00:11:56,040
I don't know, what are
their personalities like?
245
00:11:56,040 --> 00:11:57,320
That one.
246
00:11:57,320 --> 00:12:01,640
Well, like me, around two thirds
of US participants found the face
247
00:12:01,640 --> 00:12:03,880
on the left more attractive.
248
00:12:03,880 --> 00:12:08,040
But again, if we ran this
study in my home country,
249
00:12:08,040 --> 00:12:10,680
we find that this face
is more attractive.
250
00:12:10,680 --> 00:12:15,000
In developing economies, a fuller
face implies better access to food,
251
00:12:15,000 --> 00:12:18,760
and therefore makes for a healthier,
more attractive mate.
252
00:12:18,760 --> 00:12:21,680
I don't know, this really
makes me annoyed, this game.
253
00:12:21,680 --> 00:12:24,640
But in the US, it's the opposite.
254
00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:29,360
What in the US leads
to viewing malnourishment as
255
00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:30,840
maybe more attractive? Modelling!
256
00:12:30,840 --> 00:12:33,480
Yeah, well, so social media,
Internet... Fashion industry.
257
00:12:33,480 --> 00:12:34,920
Social media. Yeah, exactly.
258
00:12:34,920 --> 00:12:39,600
So, the faces that you're exposed to
lead to your preference of them.
259
00:12:39,600 --> 00:12:41,880
Whoa, stop!
RECORD SCRATCH
260
00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:43,960
Let me get my head around this.
261
00:12:43,960 --> 00:12:47,160
Carlota's discovered that
what we find hot is shaped
262
00:12:47,160 --> 00:12:48,600
by our surroundings -
263
00:12:48,600 --> 00:12:51,920
and not just in terms of looking
for a healthy mate.
264
00:12:51,920 --> 00:12:56,080
One huge influence on what
we find beautiful is familiarity -
265
00:12:56,080 --> 00:12:59,360
the faces we see around us
most often.
266
00:12:59,360 --> 00:13:03,160
So, familiarity is a
big influencer in what it is
267
00:13:03,160 --> 00:13:04,600
that we find attractive.
268
00:13:04,600 --> 00:13:07,720
So, the faces around us,
the way that those faces look,
269
00:13:07,720 --> 00:13:09,920
is what we end up finding
attractive.
270
00:13:09,920 --> 00:13:13,880
And the way that the faces around us
look is influenced by culture.
271
00:13:13,880 --> 00:13:17,040
And that has kind of big
implications for social media
272
00:13:17,040 --> 00:13:19,160
and the fashion industry.
273
00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:21,880
Because those ads and billboards
that are in our faces
274
00:13:21,880 --> 00:13:26,080
don't just reflect, but also
influence what we find beautiful.
275
00:13:28,080 --> 00:13:30,520
OK, so here's where I think we are.
276
00:13:31,600 --> 00:13:34,440
Beauty is a mix of
ancient fertility signals
277
00:13:34,440 --> 00:13:37,120
and specific cultural preferences.
278
00:13:37,120 --> 00:13:40,160
These then spread through
the media to become the template
279
00:13:40,160 --> 00:13:42,360
we all aspire to.
280
00:13:42,360 --> 00:13:45,800
No longer is beauty about
basic bonk-ability.
281
00:13:45,800 --> 00:13:50,920
Now it's also about elite status,
power, and some big benefits.
282
00:13:50,920 --> 00:13:54,480
And the stakes are high for the
winner judged the most beautiful.
283
00:13:54,480 --> 00:13:57,680
Fame, riches, and possible motion
picture fame are the prizes.
284
00:13:59,760 --> 00:14:05,080
Welcome to the concept of
beauty bias - aka, pretty privilege.
285
00:14:05,080 --> 00:14:08,760
Women on trial are 35% less
likely to be convicted
286
00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:10,400
if they're beautiful.
287
00:14:11,480 --> 00:14:14,640
People judged attractive earn
on average 10% more
288
00:14:14,640 --> 00:14:16,040
than their colleagues.
289
00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:19,800
And in the US and Europe,
conventionally handsome politicians
290
00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:23,200
attract around 20% more votes.
291
00:14:23,200 --> 00:14:26,440
It's no wonder more people than
ever are enhancing their bodies
292
00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:29,360
to reach the beauty ideal
in their country.
293
00:14:33,720 --> 00:14:35,240
Meet Diana.
294
00:14:35,240 --> 00:14:37,800
She was once
a Colombian beauty queen,
295
00:14:37,800 --> 00:14:40,120
but natural looks were not enough.
296
00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:18,120
Here, voluptuous women are adored.
297
00:15:19,160 --> 00:15:24,040
But maybe not just because a curvy
figure is a sure sign of fertility.
298
00:15:24,040 --> 00:15:27,360
There's also a darker side.
299
00:15:27,360 --> 00:15:31,120
Many have surgically enhanced their
bodies to fit what's known
300
00:15:31,120 --> 00:15:33,680
in Columbia as
the "narco aesthetic".
301
00:15:54,400 --> 00:15:57,600
And what the narcos started,
the country copied.
302
00:15:57,600 --> 00:16:02,840
Columbia is now eighth in the world
for plastic surgeries per person.
303
00:16:02,840 --> 00:16:06,280
While Diana is the architect
of her own enhanced body,
304
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:08,320
it's often men calling the shots.
305
00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:55,800
You might think, "Why would women
go along with this?"
306
00:16:55,800 --> 00:16:58,800
Well, in a fiercely
patriarchal society,
307
00:16:58,800 --> 00:17:01,480
it's a way for some women
to get ahead.
308
00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:48,520
But it's not just Columbia.
309
00:17:48,520 --> 00:17:52,680
Today, cosmetic surgery is
big business everywhere.
310
00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:55,440
In South Korea, a third
of 20-something women have
311
00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,280
gone under the knife,
312
00:17:57,280 --> 00:18:00,600
most to make their eyes look bigger.
313
00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:04,280
Brazil boasts nearly 80,000 bum
enhancements each year.
314
00:18:05,600 --> 00:18:08,960
Whilst in the UK, almost half
of plastic procedures
315
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:10,280
are boob-related.
316
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:13,520
But it's not all about surgery.
317
00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:16,320
Injectables are booming, too.
318
00:18:16,320 --> 00:18:19,400
Botox is so popular that the
government's banned it
319
00:18:19,400 --> 00:18:21,320
for under-18s.
320
00:18:21,320 --> 00:18:24,200
Truth be told,
I've thought about it myself.
321
00:18:28,520 --> 00:18:30,920
So, that's why you find me here,
322
00:18:30,920 --> 00:18:33,920
heading to a Beverly Hills
doctor's office.
323
00:18:33,920 --> 00:18:36,000
Yeah, you should get
your boobs done, too.
324
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:37,720
Why would you do that?
325
00:18:37,720 --> 00:18:39,000
What do you want me to say?
326
00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:42,000
OFF-CAMERA: Nothing. Ride the
elevator like a normal person.
327
00:18:42,000 --> 00:18:43,200
Geez!
328
00:18:45,000 --> 00:18:48,480
I thought it would be full of
older ladies, but no.
329
00:18:48,480 --> 00:18:50,600
You look gorgeous.
Thank you, so do you.
330
00:18:50,600 --> 00:18:52,680
What are you in for today?
331
00:18:52,680 --> 00:18:54,640
I'm thinking about
getting some Botox.
332
00:18:54,640 --> 00:18:57,240
How old are you?
28, turning 29 this year.
333
00:18:57,240 --> 00:18:59,400
Oh, yeah, we're the same age.
OK, OK. OK.
334
00:18:59,400 --> 00:19:01,200
You know, it just...it's time.
335
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:03,240
It's time. Right. It's time.
336
00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:05,640
Are you thinking about it?
I mean, I was not, I mean,
337
00:19:05,640 --> 00:19:07,280
I don't know, always a little bit.
338
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,200
Cos it does feel like you get to
that age where you're like
339
00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:12,720
"Oh, this is when people start
getting stuff done." Right.
340
00:19:12,720 --> 00:19:15,040
And all your friends get it done,
and then, you're like,
341
00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:16,400
"Oh, maybe I should." Yeah.
342
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,640
Do you feel like they are
celebrities who get stuff done
343
00:19:18,640 --> 00:19:20,520
that don't talk about it enough?
Absolutely.
344
00:19:20,520 --> 00:19:23,440
I think that's still the
normal right now. Yeah.
345
00:19:23,440 --> 00:19:26,480
I think, you know,
I, at least for me,
346
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:30,040
I feel like we advocate, I advocate
towards being more open and honest.
347
00:19:30,040 --> 00:19:33,160
And so, I think transparency,
in terms of your...
348
00:19:33,160 --> 00:19:35,360
Transparency is key.
And, like, no judgment.
349
00:19:35,360 --> 00:19:37,960
That's kind of why I wanted
to do this, cos I was like,
350
00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:41,120
you know, "If I decided to get
stuff done, I'll do it on camera."
351
00:19:41,120 --> 00:19:43,400
Known for its anti-aging effects,
352
00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:46,560
Botox is a drug made from a toxin.
353
00:19:46,560 --> 00:19:50,160
When injected, it causes
temporary muscle paralysis,
354
00:19:50,160 --> 00:19:54,120
tightening the skin and causing
surface wrinkles to fade.
355
00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:58,480
The effects only last
around 3-4 months -
356
00:19:58,480 --> 00:20:01,120
but it's a quicker fix
than going under the knife.
357
00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,040
So, will I go through with it?
358
00:20:04,040 --> 00:20:05,560
I honestly don't know.
359
00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:14,600
All right.
360
00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:17,160
Have you ever had any Botox
or fillers? Mm-mm.
361
00:20:17,160 --> 00:20:21,600
OK, all right, so, you know, I'm
not here to twist people's arms.
362
00:20:21,600 --> 00:20:24,240
Does anything actually bother you
when you look in the mirror?
363
00:20:24,240 --> 00:20:26,160
Yeah. OK. Wrinkles here.
364
00:20:26,160 --> 00:20:29,640
Uh-huh. Erm, you know,
I don't really get them as bad here.
365
00:20:29,640 --> 00:20:32,320
Botox came out in the '80s,
366
00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:34,480
and it's there to treat
dynamic wrinkles.
367
00:20:34,480 --> 00:20:37,080
Dynamic wrinkles are caused
by muscle movements that form in
368
00:20:37,080 --> 00:20:38,960
repetitive areas like, like here.
369
00:20:38,960 --> 00:20:41,480
And also, sometimes it happens
with more stress.
370
00:20:41,480 --> 00:20:44,480
Like, if you're furrowing your
brow a lot, you get this little
371
00:20:44,480 --> 00:20:47,480
"11" formation - which you start
to have the early roots of.
372
00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:49,480
Can you do something about it?
Absolutely.
373
00:20:49,480 --> 00:20:51,520
Botox administration in the brow -
374
00:20:51,520 --> 00:20:53,440
so where we get these 11 lines -
375
00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:56,960
has been shown to obviously improve
the 11s, but also, it's been shown
376
00:20:56,960 --> 00:21:00,280
to reduce the incidents
of depression. Wow!
377
00:21:00,280 --> 00:21:02,480
That's just the craziest thing
I've heard. Yeah.
378
00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:05,160
Cos your body senses
you're not able to frown
379
00:21:05,160 --> 00:21:06,920
or furrow your brow as much.
380
00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:10,160
Erm, and for whatever reason,
you end up being happier.
381
00:21:11,880 --> 00:21:15,120
All right, so we'll put
this blue screen down.
382
00:21:15,120 --> 00:21:17,280
And we'll go ahead and
get a few photos.
383
00:21:18,600 --> 00:21:22,800
I guess now's not the time
to pull a model face, is it?
384
00:21:22,800 --> 00:21:25,720
Perfect. OK, cool.
Let's go right over here.
385
00:21:25,720 --> 00:21:28,040
Everyone, this is not OK.
You look beautiful.
386
00:21:28,040 --> 00:21:32,520
There's nothing wrong with this one.
There's a lot of bags there, doctor.
387
00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:35,600
I mean, you know, some common areas
to get Botox, you know,
388
00:21:35,600 --> 00:21:38,240
the forehead, the brow,
the sides of the eyes.
389
00:21:38,240 --> 00:21:41,160
You know, most places where people
start is they do just a little bit
390
00:21:41,160 --> 00:21:42,680
of Botox - yeah, just right there.
391
00:21:42,680 --> 00:21:44,200
But look at these, doctor.
392
00:21:44,200 --> 00:21:47,160
Why we get this under-eye, kind of,
darkness is it's because of
393
00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:48,760
the veins underneath our eyes.
394
00:21:48,760 --> 00:21:51,000
The skin gets very thin
as we get older.
395
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:53,480
You know, I was looking at
some footage of you, er,
396
00:21:53,480 --> 00:21:55,560
when you were getting
some make-up done -
397
00:21:55,560 --> 00:21:59,360
without make-up, I do see some
hollowing you have underneath.
398
00:21:59,360 --> 00:22:01,720
I'll tell you two things
that my patients always tell me -
399
00:22:01,720 --> 00:22:03,200
Botox is easier than they thought,
400
00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:05,640
and they shouldn't have waited
as long as they did.
401
00:22:05,640 --> 00:22:08,320
It's just one of those things, like,
if you look in the mirror every
402
00:22:08,320 --> 00:22:10,520
single day and a single thing
bothers you for more than
403
00:22:10,520 --> 00:22:12,440
six months, if you could do
something about it,
404
00:22:12,440 --> 00:22:13,840
just do something about it.
405
00:22:13,840 --> 00:22:17,400
Hm. I totally get there's
pressure for women to get rid
406
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,600
of imperfections, but I'm not
sure my minor facial flaws
407
00:22:20,600 --> 00:22:24,360
are bothering me quite enough
to be injected with poison.
408
00:22:24,360 --> 00:22:26,800
Did you want to do any Botox today?
409
00:22:26,800 --> 00:22:28,480
Not today. OK.
410
00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:29,800
Not today, but we'll see.
411
00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:33,040
I'm going to keep checking in,
but I think I'm good. Good.
412
00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:35,480
Thanks for coming by.
Thank you for everything.
413
00:22:38,520 --> 00:22:42,040
I don't really know what I took away
from that, apart from I'm scared.
414
00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:43,640
I'm terrified for the future,
415
00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:47,600
and what's being normalised,
in terms of the way people look.
416
00:22:47,600 --> 00:22:50,080
If I imagine now the future,
I just see little world leaders
417
00:22:50,080 --> 00:22:52,240
who've just have Botox
since they were teenagers.
418
00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:54,040
Is that weird?
419
00:22:54,040 --> 00:22:57,800
So, I just feel like "fixing"
all these things isn't really
420
00:22:57,800 --> 00:23:00,800
"fixing" what we need to fix,
which is the void within us
421
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:04,720
to want to be better, or want to,
like, change things about ourselves.
422
00:23:04,720 --> 00:23:08,440
But what worries me most is that
while today's beauty standards
423
00:23:08,440 --> 00:23:10,960
are almost unreachable without help,
424
00:23:10,960 --> 00:23:15,000
there's still a lot of people
pretending they are all-natural.
425
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:18,280
The problem for me is that people
aren't as honest as they should be
426
00:23:18,280 --> 00:23:19,560
about work they get done.
427
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:23,760
And I don't know, and I'm
not saying anyone in particular,
428
00:23:23,760 --> 00:23:25,960
but I do wish someone would
stand up and say,
429
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:28,000
"Look, I've had this done."
430
00:23:28,000 --> 00:23:30,920
But at least people are not
selling this idea that they are
431
00:23:30,920 --> 00:23:32,760
that perfect with nothing.
432
00:23:32,760 --> 00:23:34,440
Cos it's not fair.
433
00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:37,120
It's not fair on me!
I want to know what's going on.
434
00:23:37,120 --> 00:23:40,960
Like, no, but honestly, it's just
a lot for young girls, I think.
435
00:23:40,960 --> 00:23:44,160
And I've spoken to - it's usually
my friends' younger siblings
436
00:23:44,160 --> 00:23:46,880
or something, who are like,
"No, they're just like that."
437
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:49,680
Like, "I know I can work out that
much and my body could be like that.
438
00:23:49,680 --> 00:23:52,720
"I know they are that beautiful,
and I'll never be like that."
439
00:23:52,720 --> 00:23:54,680
And it's like, that's not true.
440
00:23:54,680 --> 00:23:56,400
I know what it's like to be a model.
441
00:23:56,400 --> 00:23:58,520
I know what it's like
to be in this industry
442
00:23:58,520 --> 00:24:01,720
and having to sell people this idea,
this glamorous idea of what
443
00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:04,120
this life is really like,
but it's not, like,
444
00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:05,880
the thing we are selling.
445
00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:09,680
But then, you add on top of it this
whole plastic surgery thing,
446
00:24:09,680 --> 00:24:11,160
you're selling a lie.
447
00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:16,760
The desire to change ourselves
in the pursuit of beauty
448
00:24:16,760 --> 00:24:18,960
is growing and growing,
449
00:24:18,960 --> 00:24:22,360
and some think social media
is making things worse.
450
00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:25,640
It's rife with filters to
make us look more beautiful...
451
00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:28,680
..virtually.
452
00:24:28,680 --> 00:24:31,480
And it's in our faces all the time.
453
00:24:31,480 --> 00:24:34,000
But is social media really
the bad guy?
454
00:24:42,720 --> 00:24:46,360
Dr Jolanda Veldhuis
and Dr Mara Van Der Meulen
455
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:50,560
use brain scanners to investigate
just how social media influences
456
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:53,120
perceptions of body types
amongst teenage girls.
457
00:24:54,320 --> 00:24:58,560
An impressionable group
who use socials a lot.
458
00:24:58,560 --> 00:25:01,360
Going to slowly, slowly move you
a bit into the scanner.
459
00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:03,320
Today, it's Lotte's turn.
460
00:25:03,320 --> 00:25:05,080
Hey Lotte, are you ready?
461
00:25:05,080 --> 00:25:06,800
THROUGH SPEAKER: Yes.
462
00:25:06,800 --> 00:25:10,400
Lotte's task - to look at
pictures of bodies and rate
463
00:25:10,400 --> 00:25:15,160
whether she thinks
they're normal or too thin.
464
00:25:15,160 --> 00:25:18,920
She's then shown what other people
her age, her peer group think.
465
00:25:20,320 --> 00:25:23,400
As she does this,
Jolanda and Mara watch closely for
466
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:25,360
what's happening inside her head.
467
00:25:27,200 --> 00:25:29,200
OK, here goes Lotte.
468
00:25:29,200 --> 00:25:31,120
Let's play. First one.
469
00:25:32,120 --> 00:25:35,560
So - oh, there she scored it
as being of normal weight
470
00:25:35,560 --> 00:25:37,560
and now, she will see
the peer feedback.
471
00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:43,320
And peer feedback stated
that it is a too-thin model.
472
00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:46,280
Lotte's hit with 60 different images
473
00:25:46,280 --> 00:25:49,080
and has three seconds
to judge each one.
474
00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:53,440
So now, it's very interesting to see
what is happening in Lotte's brain.
475
00:25:53,440 --> 00:25:56,920
Dr Mara's particularly interested
in how Lotte responds when
476
00:25:56,920 --> 00:25:59,600
she and her peer group disagree.
477
00:25:59,600 --> 00:26:02,800
She scours the scans for areas
of increased blood flow -
478
00:26:02,800 --> 00:26:06,640
indicating brain activity
is ramping up.
479
00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:09,840
When our participants thought
that models looked normal,
480
00:26:09,840 --> 00:26:12,640
but the peer feedback was,
"No, this model is too thin,"
481
00:26:12,640 --> 00:26:15,480
that was when we noticed
the strongest activation of
482
00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:16,520
these two regions.
483
00:26:17,680 --> 00:26:19,480
Which two regions?
484
00:26:19,480 --> 00:26:21,440
Why, the bilateral insular and
485
00:26:21,440 --> 00:26:24,560
the anterior cingulate cortex,
of course!
486
00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:27,200
But, erm, what does that even mean?
487
00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:30,360
Bilateral insular is, for example,
thought to be important
488
00:26:30,360 --> 00:26:33,800
for experiencing empathy -
so thinking about how other people
489
00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:37,120
are feeling - and the dorsal
interior singular cortex is also
490
00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:39,440
important for processing feedback.
491
00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:42,560
And this region is important,
for example, when thinking
492
00:26:42,560 --> 00:26:45,520
about yourself, and thinking
about others, and also,
493
00:26:45,520 --> 00:26:50,160
picking up events that are important
to you on a social aspect.
494
00:26:50,160 --> 00:26:53,720
Whenever participants receive
feedback that is not in line with
495
00:26:53,720 --> 00:26:57,320
their own opinion, the bilateral
insular and anterior cingulate
496
00:26:57,320 --> 00:27:00,400
cortex are activated in
our participants.
497
00:27:00,400 --> 00:27:04,280
And these regions are seen as
especially important in detecting
498
00:27:04,280 --> 00:27:06,200
a violation of social norms.
499
00:27:06,200 --> 00:27:07,600
Maybe making them think,
500
00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:10,440
"If what I consider normal
is not actually normal,
501
00:27:10,440 --> 00:27:13,960
"then how should I view
these models"?
502
00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:17,280
Other people's opinions trigger
Lotte's brain into questioning
503
00:27:17,280 --> 00:27:19,080
her own judgments.
504
00:27:19,080 --> 00:27:22,440
And the more you do that,
the less comfortable you feel.
505
00:27:22,440 --> 00:27:26,000
The combination of being exposed
to these ideal bodies,
506
00:27:26,000 --> 00:27:28,360
all these beautiful women
and how amazing they look,
507
00:27:28,360 --> 00:27:31,120
and we also know what our peers
think of these bodies.
508
00:27:31,120 --> 00:27:34,440
So, that makes it very difficult
for adolescents to form their
509
00:27:34,440 --> 00:27:38,000
opinions themselves, because you
know what your peers think,
510
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:39,440
you might start to wonder,
511
00:27:39,440 --> 00:27:43,480
"OK, how should I think about
these ideal bodies"?
512
00:27:43,480 --> 00:27:47,960
If you think people look too thin,
but your peers all say normal,
513
00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:50,800
you tend to fall into line
and cherish skinny, too.
514
00:27:52,080 --> 00:27:55,520
That's why social media where
peer feedback is everything
515
00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:58,320
is so influential.
516
00:27:58,320 --> 00:28:01,320
But the good news is
it works both ways.
517
00:28:01,320 --> 00:28:04,000
If your friends prefer a
curvier body shape,
518
00:28:04,000 --> 00:28:06,720
then after a while, so will you.
519
00:28:06,720 --> 00:28:08,840
Social media isn't all bad,
520
00:28:08,840 --> 00:28:12,160
you just need to watch
where you place your likes.
521
00:28:12,160 --> 00:28:15,200
The user is not only
the consumer of the media,
522
00:28:15,200 --> 00:28:16,800
but it's also the creator.
523
00:28:16,800 --> 00:28:23,240
Social media offers also a platform
to discuss what we think is healthy,
524
00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:24,880
what we think is normal,
525
00:28:24,880 --> 00:28:27,720
but also, what we think is,
like, a realistic body image.
526
00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:31,280
I use social media,
527
00:28:31,280 --> 00:28:35,520
and I try to promote individuality
and self-acceptance.
528
00:28:35,520 --> 00:28:37,680
But look at these images of me.
529
00:28:37,680 --> 00:28:41,360
Despite the eyebrows and
the goofy faces, when I'm modelling,
530
00:28:41,360 --> 00:28:45,680
I still represent that
old-school beauty standard.
531
00:28:45,680 --> 00:28:48,560
OFF-CAMERA: Do you feel like
you're part of the problem?
532
00:28:48,560 --> 00:28:51,280
I did feel part of the problem for
so long, and that's, kind of,
533
00:28:51,280 --> 00:28:52,920
why I tried to move away from it.
534
00:28:52,920 --> 00:28:55,560
There's nothing wrong
with beauty, but...
535
00:28:55,560 --> 00:28:59,800
..I personally have - and I've
always had a bit of an issue
536
00:28:59,800 --> 00:29:02,560
with the industry, which is fashion.
537
00:29:02,560 --> 00:29:04,120
OK, I can't go into this either.
538
00:29:04,120 --> 00:29:06,560
I can't shit on
the hand that feeds me.
539
00:29:06,560 --> 00:29:09,320
Erm, no, I don't think there's
anything wrong with beauty.
540
00:29:09,320 --> 00:29:12,120
Beauty has been sold as
this one thing about, like,
541
00:29:12,120 --> 00:29:14,280
being skinny and all these things.
542
00:29:14,280 --> 00:29:17,680
And when you meet people whose lives
have been destroyed by "beauty",
543
00:29:17,680 --> 00:29:19,200
it's horrifying.
544
00:29:19,200 --> 00:29:22,160
Especially when you're part of
that industry, it's not OK.
545
00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:26,360
People will literally destroy their
lives over trying to be "beautiful".
546
00:29:26,360 --> 00:29:30,360
Very narrow definitions of beauty
in media and our culture
547
00:29:30,360 --> 00:29:35,640
can make us spend money,
seek surgery, and feel inadequate.
548
00:29:35,640 --> 00:29:38,800
And sometimes, the damage
can be quite extreme.
549
00:29:42,720 --> 00:29:45,880
This is Johannesburg, South Africa.
550
00:29:45,880 --> 00:29:50,280
Here, colonialism and apartheid
have seriously restricted ideas
551
00:29:50,280 --> 00:29:52,240
about who is beautiful.
552
00:29:52,240 --> 00:29:56,000
Lesego Make-up Tutorial -
scene eight, slate 11, take five.
553
00:29:58,280 --> 00:30:01,600
Lesego Tlhabi is an award-winning
satirist using comedy
554
00:30:01,600 --> 00:30:03,920
to confront beauty standards.
555
00:30:03,920 --> 00:30:07,200
Her most popular character
is Coconut Kelz.
556
00:30:07,200 --> 00:30:10,960
Howzit, guys, and welcome
to Coconut Kelz make-up tutorial.
557
00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:12,240
A lot of you have asked me,
558
00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:15,280
"Kelz, how can I achieve
your Caucasian glow?
559
00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:18,040
"And how can I make myself have
make-up that will take me
560
00:30:18,040 --> 00:30:20,160
"far away from my Africanness?"
561
00:30:20,160 --> 00:30:21,360
Ew.
562
00:30:21,360 --> 00:30:23,640
Anyway, so I've got four
foundation shades.
563
00:30:23,640 --> 00:30:26,280
We've got African Migrant -
which we don't want to use!
564
00:30:26,280 --> 00:30:28,760
We've got Meghan and Harry's Baby.
565
00:30:28,760 --> 00:30:30,400
We've got OK-K-K -
566
00:30:30,400 --> 00:30:34,160
and the one that I'll be using
today is White Privilege.
567
00:30:34,160 --> 00:30:39,520
Lesego grew up in a mainly white
affluent suburb of Johannesburg.
568
00:30:39,520 --> 00:30:42,840
My formative years were
very much me being one of only
569
00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:44,360
three Black girls in my class.
570
00:30:44,360 --> 00:30:48,040
For me, that was the first time
I realised that anything
571
00:30:48,040 --> 00:30:51,200
close to Blackness was
not seen as beautiful.
572
00:30:52,520 --> 00:30:55,960
She noticed that even small
differences in skin tone
573
00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:59,040
made a huge difference to
how you got treated.
574
00:30:59,040 --> 00:31:01,360
Unfortunately,
in a Black-majority country
575
00:31:01,360 --> 00:31:04,640
and Asian-majority countries,
the closer you are to whiteness,
576
00:31:04,640 --> 00:31:06,360
you get treated better.
577
00:31:06,360 --> 00:31:08,200
You get thought of as
more intelligent,
578
00:31:08,200 --> 00:31:10,080
you get thought of as
more beautiful,
579
00:31:10,080 --> 00:31:12,680
and you get more opportunities.
580
00:31:12,680 --> 00:31:16,120
This kind of discrimination
is called colourism.
581
00:31:16,120 --> 00:31:18,160
It's a preference for skin colour,
582
00:31:18,160 --> 00:31:20,200
mostly within ethnic groups.
583
00:31:21,480 --> 00:31:26,000
In South Africa, colourism has
its roots in colonialism -
584
00:31:26,000 --> 00:31:29,360
the paler you were,
the higher your status.
585
00:31:29,360 --> 00:31:33,040
But today, it exists in different
forms all over the world.
586
00:31:34,720 --> 00:31:39,360
Lesego also hosts a popular podcast
- this time, as herself.
587
00:31:39,360 --> 00:31:40,880
Hi!
588
00:31:40,880 --> 00:31:43,040
Oh, my goodness, how are you?
589
00:31:43,040 --> 00:31:44,880
I'm good, how are you?
590
00:31:44,880 --> 00:31:47,560
Today, with journalist Zanele Mji,
591
00:31:47,560 --> 00:31:52,400
she's tackling colourism within
the Black community head-on.
592
00:31:52,400 --> 00:31:54,880
My romantic life at university
was nonexistent.
593
00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:57,040
Like, just nonexistent.
594
00:31:57,040 --> 00:32:00,000
And now, when I look back, only
when I look back do I understand
595
00:32:00,000 --> 00:32:01,880
the role that colourism played.
596
00:32:01,880 --> 00:32:04,680
You know, there were just
certain girls who were light,
597
00:32:04,680 --> 00:32:08,440
petite, with straight hair, who,
if they were around,
598
00:32:08,440 --> 00:32:12,720
you may as well be the wallpaper!
599
00:32:12,720 --> 00:32:15,200
Erm, how did you deal with
those social dynamics,
600
00:32:15,200 --> 00:32:18,240
in terms of being the darker girl
and having some of the conversations
601
00:32:18,240 --> 00:32:20,320
maybe with your
light-skinned friends?
602
00:32:20,320 --> 00:32:23,040
It's, like, such a painful thing
that divides us as friends,
603
00:32:23,040 --> 00:32:26,120
cos we love to go out together,
we love to spend time together.
604
00:32:26,120 --> 00:32:29,280
But, like, there's this constant
thing that's happening. Yeah.
605
00:32:29,280 --> 00:32:32,160
That other people are injecting
into our dynamic.
606
00:32:32,160 --> 00:32:35,760
And I've talked a lot about
colourism with my dark-skinned
607
00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:38,600
friends and I've never discussed it
with my light-skinned friends.
608
00:32:38,600 --> 00:32:41,440
Why do you think colourism
is the unspoken "ism"?
609
00:32:41,440 --> 00:32:45,680
I think people get uncomfortable
with admitting their privilege.
610
00:32:45,680 --> 00:32:47,400
They just do.
611
00:32:47,400 --> 00:32:52,600
I guess it must be tricky for Black
women to admit their own privilege,
612
00:32:52,600 --> 00:32:55,880
because it's not a position
they're put in often,
613
00:32:55,880 --> 00:32:59,400
But I think we're getting
to a place where, as Black women,
614
00:32:59,400 --> 00:33:03,320
we actually need to start
owning that stuff.
615
00:33:03,320 --> 00:33:06,080
Lesego wants to bring
issues around colourism to
616
00:33:06,080 --> 00:33:08,080
the widest possible audience.
617
00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:12,320
And by mixing authentic
and impactful podcasts with
618
00:33:12,320 --> 00:33:14,560
Coconut Kelz's satire and humour,
619
00:33:14,560 --> 00:33:19,160
she delivers a powerful
double-punch to white privilege.
620
00:33:19,160 --> 00:33:20,800
So, dab, dab, dab.
621
00:33:20,800 --> 00:33:22,480
As you can see, oh, my goodness,
622
00:33:22,480 --> 00:33:25,240
I'm already a different person.
623
00:33:25,240 --> 00:33:28,560
They would not follow me around
the store if I had this colour.
624
00:33:28,560 --> 00:33:33,680
There we go, I've got rid of any
signs of my Africanness.
625
00:33:33,680 --> 00:33:35,080
Oh, that's beautiful.
626
00:33:35,080 --> 00:33:36,640
And voila!
627
00:33:36,640 --> 00:33:39,360
Ready for the covers of
any fashion magazine.
628
00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,920
"Beautiful" - what does that mean?
Who made that up?
629
00:33:43,920 --> 00:33:47,120
Beauty is such a fun thing
to be able to play with,
630
00:33:47,120 --> 00:33:50,280
but the point is, is that everyone
should be able to play with it
631
00:33:50,280 --> 00:33:53,000
and it shouldn't be this thing
that are only reached by
632
00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:54,480
a certain amount of people.
633
00:33:54,480 --> 00:33:56,480
Beauty should be
completely universal,
634
00:33:56,480 --> 00:33:59,240
and everyone should be able
to feel that.
635
00:33:59,240 --> 00:34:03,520
But how do we get to the promised
land where we all feel beautiful?
636
00:34:03,520 --> 00:34:05,120
Well, remember that science bit
637
00:34:05,120 --> 00:34:07,840
about familiar faces
being attractive?
638
00:34:07,840 --> 00:34:13,040
It seems all you gotta do to love
more faces is see more faces.
639
00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:15,360
The more different faces
that we're exposed,
640
00:34:15,360 --> 00:34:20,240
to the more different and varied
what we find attractive is, right?
641
00:34:20,240 --> 00:34:24,000
So, one of the positive things that
is happening right now in a lot
642
00:34:24,000 --> 00:34:28,680
of ad campaigns is just seeing
a greater diversity of people.
643
00:34:28,680 --> 00:34:33,000
And that is going to influence
and start normalising more of
644
00:34:33,000 --> 00:34:35,040
a range of attractiveness.
645
00:34:35,040 --> 00:34:39,120
So, depending on your environment,
the same person can change
646
00:34:39,120 --> 00:34:41,920
what they find more attractive
within just three days.
647
00:34:43,800 --> 00:34:47,440
So, let me get this right -
just a few days of surrounding
648
00:34:47,440 --> 00:34:52,240
yourself with different faces could
change what you find attractive?
649
00:34:52,240 --> 00:34:54,040
Wow!
650
00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:58,520
Diversity in our media,
on our TVs, on our billboards -
651
00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,080
that's the key to our beauty
revolution right there.
652
00:35:02,080 --> 00:35:03,600
People's attitudes are changing.
653
00:35:03,600 --> 00:35:06,880
And, in fact, I hope that with
things like series like this
654
00:35:06,880 --> 00:35:09,640
that bring knowledge about
these biases, about,
655
00:35:09,640 --> 00:35:12,120
"Well, why did I think this?
Why did I think that?"
656
00:35:12,120 --> 00:35:15,960
That that can actually change
the way that we perceive faces.
657
00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:17,840
Knowledge is power.
658
00:35:17,840 --> 00:35:22,040
So, instead of saying, "Well,
these biases shouldn't exist,"
659
00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:26,920
understanding that they're there
so that we can combat them.
660
00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:29,880
Now there's a group taking those
ideas out of our campaigns
661
00:35:29,880 --> 00:35:31,200
and into the world...
662
00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:35,640
..loudly displaying
an inclusive new vision of
663
00:35:35,640 --> 00:35:37,400
what's hot and happening.
664
00:35:43,160 --> 00:35:45,520
Line the models up there,
so they're out the way.
665
00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:48,480
And then, that gives
this space for audience.
666
00:35:48,480 --> 00:35:51,960
University student Astelia
is in London's Trafalgar Square
667
00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:56,600
to set up a ground-breaking
fashion show, The Real Catwalk.
668
00:35:56,600 --> 00:35:59,200
This is where the models enter from.
669
00:35:59,200 --> 00:36:03,160
It's a yearly event which rejects
mainstream standards
670
00:36:03,160 --> 00:36:05,200
by modelling real people,
671
00:36:05,200 --> 00:36:09,960
to show that no-one can dictate
what is and isn't beautiful.
672
00:36:09,960 --> 00:36:14,200
Its campaign for more diverse
representation in fashion and beauty
673
00:36:14,200 --> 00:36:18,120
has inspired similar body-positive
events around the world,
674
00:36:18,120 --> 00:36:20,800
empowering people of all kinds.
675
00:36:22,440 --> 00:36:25,120
For Astelia, though,
it's also personal.
676
00:36:26,200 --> 00:36:30,280
I'd always had struggles with
my body and disordered eating.
677
00:36:30,280 --> 00:36:33,000
Constantly in this spiral of,
like, self-hatred,
678
00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:36,080
not feeling good enough
and trying to find self-worth.
679
00:36:36,080 --> 00:36:38,520
I walked the runway, like,
in my bikini,
680
00:36:38,520 --> 00:36:42,440
and I felt so powerful
and so beautiful.
681
00:36:42,440 --> 00:36:46,280
I'd never been in a bikini before,
doing The Real Catwalk ever.
682
00:36:46,280 --> 00:36:51,360
And from that moment, it completely
and utterly changed my life.
683
00:36:51,360 --> 00:36:53,360
Astelia hasn't looked back since.
684
00:36:53,360 --> 00:36:56,200
Hundreds of other people are here,
too, with all sorts of
685
00:36:56,200 --> 00:36:57,800
body shapes and sizes.
686
00:36:57,800 --> 00:36:59,440
Action shot!
687
00:37:01,080 --> 00:37:04,520
Representing people as they are
and showing that everybody,
688
00:37:04,520 --> 00:37:08,720
regardless of how they are,
can be and is beautiful.
689
00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:12,040
Beauty is an expression of the self,
not an expression of the body.
690
00:37:15,520 --> 00:37:17,400
We're torturing ourselves.
691
00:37:17,400 --> 00:37:20,360
We need to put our bodies out there
and show that we are real,
692
00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:22,360
we are normal, we are worthy.
693
00:37:22,360 --> 00:37:24,400
No matter what you look like.
694
00:37:24,400 --> 00:37:27,360
Bringing The Real Catwalk
to the streets shows just how
695
00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:30,120
the world of beauty is
starting to shift.
696
00:37:30,120 --> 00:37:32,720
It's inspired so many
across the globe
697
00:37:32,720 --> 00:37:34,920
to claim beauty for themselves.
698
00:37:34,920 --> 00:37:37,760
We're going against all of
these types of societal norms
699
00:37:37,760 --> 00:37:40,360
and inherent pressures that are,
sort of, forced upon us.
700
00:37:40,360 --> 00:37:43,840
We are protesting those issues,
and we are pushing those boundaries.
701
00:37:43,840 --> 00:37:45,840
So, it is so much more
than just an event.
702
00:37:47,600 --> 00:37:51,640
If everybody could move over here,
we're going to get us going!
703
00:37:51,640 --> 00:37:53,680
CHEERING
704
00:38:07,040 --> 00:38:09,720
It's not easy showing yourself
off in public...
705
00:38:09,720 --> 00:38:11,640
CHEERING CONTINUES
706
00:38:11,640 --> 00:38:14,240
..but being upfront about
challenging beauty norms
707
00:38:14,240 --> 00:38:17,600
is the only way to get
things to change.
708
00:38:17,600 --> 00:38:21,160
All bodies are beautiful no matter,
how different they are.
709
00:38:21,160 --> 00:38:24,000
I just feel on cloud nine.
710
00:38:24,000 --> 00:38:25,720
So many times in my life,
I've been told,
711
00:38:25,720 --> 00:38:27,560
"You're not good enough.
you're not normal.
712
00:38:27,560 --> 00:38:30,280
"You don't fit into the beauty
standards," and you feel left out.
713
00:38:30,280 --> 00:38:33,720
You feel, like - I hide away,
hide my body, hide my lines
714
00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:36,520
and my tubes, and actually,
no, I shouldn't hide.
715
00:38:36,520 --> 00:38:39,120
You are beautiful.
You are gorgeous just as you are.
716
00:38:40,360 --> 00:38:42,440
CHEERING
717
00:38:43,680 --> 00:38:46,360
There were so many different
types of people here today.
718
00:38:46,360 --> 00:38:48,600
There were people
celebrating their scars,
719
00:38:48,600 --> 00:38:50,520
being outside of a gender binary,
720
00:38:50,520 --> 00:38:53,080
their queerness, their curves.
721
00:38:54,440 --> 00:38:58,120
Having everyone here with this
kind of celebration of people,
722
00:38:58,120 --> 00:38:59,600
it's just incredible.
723
00:38:59,600 --> 00:39:01,080
This is real modelling.
724
00:39:02,000 --> 00:39:03,240
Ah! Sorry.
725
00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:04,480
I'm so, so teary.
726
00:39:08,720 --> 00:39:11,680
Well, I'm nearly at the end
of my journey to explore
727
00:39:11,680 --> 00:39:13,920
female beauty in all its forms.
728
00:39:15,080 --> 00:39:18,280
I've met extraordinary people
who are pushing boundaries
729
00:39:18,280 --> 00:39:21,920
and opening up
incredibly rigid ideals.
730
00:39:21,920 --> 00:39:24,720
But here in the US,
there's one more person who's
731
00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:28,000
a huge part of changing
our understanding of beauty...
732
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:31,560
..and they've invited me
to hang out.
733
00:39:31,560 --> 00:39:34,840
You know, I've never been
to Saks before. Really? Never.
734
00:39:36,880 --> 00:39:38,640
Hi. Hello.
735
00:39:38,640 --> 00:39:40,880
Welcome. Thank you very much.
736
00:39:40,880 --> 00:39:42,840
Hi, Alfie.
737
00:39:42,840 --> 00:39:47,560
This is author, influencer,
and activist Alok Vaid-Menon.
738
00:39:47,560 --> 00:39:49,320
So, like... These are functional.
739
00:39:49,320 --> 00:39:51,520
Those are stunning, functional.
Yeah.
740
00:39:51,520 --> 00:39:54,520
As a nonbinary,
gender-nonconforming person,
741
00:39:54,520 --> 00:39:57,160
Alok's been told they're ugly...
742
00:39:57,160 --> 00:39:59,200
..by fools, obviously!
743
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,640
Is this your house? Yes, it's...
744
00:40:01,640 --> 00:40:04,480
My living room's right over here.
These are my best friends.
745
00:40:04,480 --> 00:40:05,760
This is your best friend.
746
00:40:05,760 --> 00:40:08,320
I've been taking posing
practices all day.
747
00:40:08,320 --> 00:40:11,680
Alok uses their talents to fight
back against the old-school
748
00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:15,080
beauty standards that shaped
their early life -
749
00:40:15,080 --> 00:40:19,200
and still permeate much of fashion,
the beauty industry,
750
00:40:19,200 --> 00:40:20,760
and our society.
751
00:40:21,840 --> 00:40:24,360
I can't wait to play
dress-up together,
752
00:40:24,360 --> 00:40:26,960
here at Sak's Fifth Avenue.
753
00:40:26,960 --> 00:40:30,000
For me, beauty is an everyday
practice of freedom.
754
00:40:31,440 --> 00:40:34,680
And, yes, there are people
who are upset about it and say,
755
00:40:34,680 --> 00:40:37,200
"Alok, you should shave,
or you should do this,"
756
00:40:37,200 --> 00:40:40,720
or, "Life would be easier" -
and that's all irrelevant to me.
757
00:40:40,720 --> 00:40:46,760
In fact, if anything, it's testament
to the power of this beauty.
758
00:40:46,760 --> 00:40:49,840
Is the purpose of beauty
to make people comfortable,
759
00:40:49,840 --> 00:40:52,640
or is the purpose of beauty
to be yourself?
760
00:40:53,960 --> 00:40:55,880
So, how do you define beauty?
761
00:40:55,880 --> 00:40:58,520
I think it's about
un-defining beauty.
762
00:40:58,520 --> 00:41:02,120
We have such limited images of
the world of what it means
763
00:41:02,120 --> 00:41:05,280
to be beautiful, that sometimes,
when I look at myself, I'm like,
764
00:41:05,280 --> 00:41:08,600
"I've never seen anyone
in the world look like this".
765
00:41:08,600 --> 00:41:11,520
"Un-defining beauty."
Why have any definition whatsoever?
766
00:41:11,520 --> 00:41:14,160
And I completely agree with you,
because how much fun you can have
767
00:41:14,160 --> 00:41:17,200
with clothes, but especially when
you don't stick to anyone's rules.
768
00:41:17,200 --> 00:41:19,560
What it's really about
is the fear of being seen.
769
00:41:19,560 --> 00:41:24,160
I think most people are petrified
with people looking at them.
770
00:41:24,160 --> 00:41:27,560
And one of the luxuries of being
gender-nonconforming is,
771
00:41:27,560 --> 00:41:30,600
from a very young age,
I had to get over that fear.
772
00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:34,120
Because if I live my life being
concerned about other people
773
00:41:34,120 --> 00:41:36,280
looking at me, I wouldn't exist.
774
00:41:36,280 --> 00:41:40,280
It's so liberating, because now,
I genuinely feel like
775
00:41:40,280 --> 00:41:42,600
I'm only getting dressed for myself.
776
00:41:42,600 --> 00:41:45,760
I've been in the fashion industry
for a very long time, and I...
777
00:41:45,760 --> 00:41:48,720
It definitely redefined my idea
of what beauty was,
778
00:41:48,720 --> 00:41:51,800
because for me,
I used to dress up constantly.
779
00:41:51,800 --> 00:41:54,520
And I guess it also has something
to do with being in the public eye,
780
00:41:54,520 --> 00:41:57,160
but that's why I love wearing black,
cos I like to hide. Right.
781
00:41:57,160 --> 00:41:59,080
I like to not stand out as much.
782
00:41:59,080 --> 00:42:03,200
I like to, kind of, be...
yeah, more hidden, I suppose.
783
00:42:03,200 --> 00:42:07,120
I think fame eats away at
people's creativity in some ways.
784
00:42:07,120 --> 00:42:09,880
Sure, 100%. Because you always have
to be editing, policing,
785
00:42:09,880 --> 00:42:11,240
"What are people going to think?
786
00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:13,480
"People are going to have issues
about what I'm doing,
787
00:42:13,480 --> 00:42:16,120
"what I'm saying, who I am,
what I look like. So what?"
788
00:42:16,120 --> 00:42:18,320
Like, I only look like what
I want to look like,
789
00:42:18,320 --> 00:42:21,320
and no-one else really matters.
Yeah.
790
00:42:21,320 --> 00:42:23,560
It's liberating. That is beauty.
791
00:42:36,680 --> 00:42:39,360
So, the million-dollar question -
792
00:42:39,360 --> 00:42:41,480
maybe the billion-dollar question -
793
00:42:41,480 --> 00:42:44,560
is beauty and what we find
attractive genuinely
794
00:42:44,560 --> 00:42:46,880
changing in our generation?
795
00:42:46,880 --> 00:42:49,520
Is there a beauty
revolution under way?
796
00:42:49,520 --> 00:42:53,080
Well, it seems so -
and I want to be a part of it.
797
00:42:53,080 --> 00:42:57,040
So, let's join together and bring
on a more inclusive future.
798
00:42:58,240 --> 00:43:01,120
I have a moral obligation,
because mothers will come up to me
799
00:43:01,120 --> 00:43:02,760
with their young daughters and say,
800
00:43:02,760 --> 00:43:04,760
"My daughter wants to model
because of you".
801
00:43:04,760 --> 00:43:06,480
And I would go, "no, no, no.
802
00:43:06,480 --> 00:43:08,960
"Please don't say that.
I will cry. Like, don't."
803
00:43:10,400 --> 00:43:14,920
I think beauty is far more, like,
if you're a good person or not.
804
00:43:14,920 --> 00:43:18,800
I meet people who are
so much more beautiful because
805
00:43:18,800 --> 00:43:22,080
they are confident about themselves
no matter what you look like -
806
00:43:22,080 --> 00:43:25,520
skin, shape, hair, colour,
whatever, where you're from -
807
00:43:25,520 --> 00:43:27,120
that is beautiful.
808
00:43:27,120 --> 00:43:28,840
It's about what makes you happy.
809
00:43:28,840 --> 00:43:32,200
It's about what makes you feel
confident, and what you feel sexy.
810
00:43:32,200 --> 00:43:34,280
Not what about you
turns other people on.
811
00:43:34,280 --> 00:43:38,320
It's about what makes you turn
yourself on about yourself.
812
00:43:38,320 --> 00:43:40,520
That, for me,
is the most interesting part.
813
00:43:41,960 --> 00:43:45,200
OFF CAMERA: Oh, my God! We did it!
Ye-e-es!
814
00:43:45,200 --> 00:43:47,640
CHEERING
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