All language subtitles for PBS Nature - Amazing Places - Africa 2009 Part 1

Unknown: They call it the smoke that thunders.

Here the mighty Zambezi River meets the edge of one world

and plummets into another.

Victoria Falls magnificent during the rainy season

and deadly

yet for some,

this is home.

Zambezi brings me everything I need.

For 74 years she has looked after me and my family

but if Victoria Falls thunders when it rains,

she whispers when the dry season come

does Zambezi becomes shallow, lazy

and then, months later,

the thunder returns

were actually nothing brings you near.

Nothing in your life can prepare you for this experience.

She grabs you and shakes you to your bones.

It is like you're standing on the edge of the world.

From the north of Zambia, she has traveled 1000 Miles

flowing along the borders of Angola,

Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe.

Now she slows offering cool waters that are shallow and wide.

Sandy islands split her into hundreds of channels.

For miles she drifts and dreams.

Her name is Zambezi and she is known across southern Africa

as the river of life

but everyone who relies on her knows she has another side.

As she reaches the mighty of Victoria Falls,

she wakes up

they call this place Marselie Otunia the smoke that thunders

the waters dance and shout, tumbling 350 feet,

throwing rainbows high into the air

as he emerges into the Batoka gorge,

the Zambezi is alive again. carving through the rocks

dark and sleek, deep and fast.

Here she is not so easy to live with.

But one man has lived by her side for 74 years

and called her his friend all his life.

She holds a million secrets beneath her waters,

revealing a few to each of us so we may survive here.

This is the story of life on the Zambezi

lives ruled by the mood of the river and the rains.

Today, she is quiet. But the story begins many months ago.

Then she was magnificent.

It was February and it had rain every day for nine weeks

more than I have ever seen.

the Zambezi was fool, and Victoria became a monster.

Like a volcano, she breathed clouds of spray a mile high above the gorge.

This is where our story begins.

My name is Mr. White and I am a fisherman.

I live in the village of stoneware.

It is a small village on the edge of the Batoka gorge

most here are fishermen and we rely on the Zambezi for much of our food.

I need to catch any fish to feed my family.

I have seven daughters, eight sons and three wifes

this year will be bad. It is too late.

All my crops have drowned and died.

It's so much rain. Fishing is tough.

But it will take whatever the Zambezi offers.

The rains this year are some of the heaviest on record.

Victoria Falls is in full flow

at over a mile wide.

No other waterfall on Earth can match her scale

every second, almost 300,000 gallons of the Zambezi cascade over the edge

and vanish into the abyss.

So much rain means that the river is a tough place to live at this time of year.

Many of the animals that rely on the falls in the dry season

are spread out across the savanna and will not return until the river drops.

But for the baboons, conditions could not be better.

They live in the gorge between the falls and the Zambia Zimbabwe border post.

The snaggletooth male is the leader the king of the border troop

the rains and constant spray from the falls create a ribbon of rainforest.

Trees drenched in water are heavy with fruit,

perfect for baboons.

At this time of year, the border troop is well fed and life is good.

Out on the savanna. Most baboons have to travel to find food.

The troop by the river has time on their hands

but the easy life only leads to arguments and fights.

baboon society is complex and in positioning in the troop depends on your family
and friends.

In the months to come, it will be tough.

The dry season is a very different world.

But for now it's a time to play or

just sit and watch the world go by.

It's March

the rains have finally stopped

but the waters will rage in the river for two more months.

In the gorge the water is still cold and dangerous

maybe she looks smaller here can between the walls of the gorge

but she is deep. So so deep.

They say that above Victoria, the crocodiles have teeth.

But down here it is the Zambezi who has the teeth

if I fell in, she would swallow me and I would be gone.

So I am careful to me that

she is still too angry to give them many fish.

The rain has made the water cold and the Fish are hiding

what I have learned to read her waters.

I know all of her pools and Eddie's

I know where she hides her fish

this is my favorite spot

to be your opinion number nine.

I have fished here since 1947

I am happy when I am with the Zambesi

he doesn't talk too much.

I know she will give me something.

And if I catch enough fish to sell,

I can buy me meal and some tea.

above the falls, elephants returned to the Zambesi as the land around begins to
dry out.

Here they can drink they're filled

with little food to be found elsewhere,

the elephants come to the river to feed on the lush grasses

that grow in the emerging islands.

They remember where to cross the shallow rapids.

But this year, the heavy rains have made the Zambesi stronger than ever.

If they make a mistake, they could be swept over the falls.

The adults try to protect the baby from the full flow of the water

but it's too strong and they are forced to turn back.

They must wait for the Zambesi to let them cross.

For now, they can only wait and watch

as the grasses are plundered by herds of bachelor males.

Being larger and more powerful these groups of bulls can easily cross the high
water

and take full advantage of the rich bounty on the islands.

With grass making up more than 50% of their diet.

Reaching the islands early is a huge advantage to the bulls

they forage for up to 16 hours a day.

So the family herd will have to cross soon or there will be no grass left.

By May a transformation begins.

The clouds of burn from the skies and the thunder from Victoria Falls rose quiet

as the mighty Zambezi begins to succumb to the power of the sun.

As the river drops its waters become clear,

making life easier for the African fishing them

this is the time that all the fishermen around the Falls have been waiting for.

The land above the floors is lost in mist every morning.

I like at this time.

Each day, as the Miss lifts

I see more life returning to the Zambesi

The gibbons have come home.

They have been away for many months.

They come back as soon as it is revealed some banks and islands

safe from danger, the perfect places to nest.

Now a flight information, calling and displaying as they search for the best
spots.

They will wait until the beaches have been merged

before they are beginning to build their nests.

And as the waters drop, the shallow pools are full of fish.

This is a good time for them to start to raise a family

the bull-gibbons are displaying now

every morning on their calls echoed across the river,

letting other males know whose boss

and many he pulls above the falle.

They are so so dangerous.

I prefer to fish in a gorge where they're unknown.

But I like to visit the Zambesi up here.

Every day, she shows me something new.

As the Zambezi begins to subside,

the drying riverbanks become prime real estate for a colony of bee eaters.

Just in time for nesting season

1000s of birds begin excavations

their apartment complexes dotting the emerging sand cliffs

they must dig their nests fast

before the sun dries the mud as hard as stone

a colony is a safe place to be so many eyes for guard duty

and beaks for defense.

A pair of pine kingfishers are trying to find a space here to

safe among the bee eaters.

But they are not working and they have come too late.

But finding a good spot outside the protection of the bee eaters will be
difficult

The largest Kingfisher in the world, the giant Kingfisher

chooses to nest away from the noisy bee eaters.

They are nearly as large as a crow, and wherever they raise a family,

there must be plenty of fish.

As the river clears after the rains, the fishing will be good.

Now is the time for them to start a family

the male will always keep one eye open for predators near his nest.

But the baboons are no threat to him.

Although they will eat almost anything

and would raid his nest if they could find it.

They are here for a different feast.

Palm trees line the banks of the river above the falls,

and as the rains come to an end, they fruit

the baboons strip the soft outer layer,

discarding the tough nut inside

while one young male sits in the crown of the tree,

others wait below for the fruits he drops.

There is not much of a meal in each one, but there are many to be found

and the baboons know where and when to look.

above the trees and the mighty Zambezi fish Eagles scan the widening waters.

With the rains long over and the river running clear.

It's time for them to raise their family

they must raise their chicks during the dry season.

So they can learn to hunt before the river rises once again.

This pair has been together for many years.

They always nest in the same spot

high in the canopy on one of the islands above the falls

they call to tell everybody that they hold this territory

it is a prime fishing spot directly above the falls,

a territory made up of shallow pools and wrappings.

In September, the sun burns hard on the land.

Every day drinks Zambesi dry

Victoria is forced to retreat along the rocks.

Thunder a song that just a whisper

all around, the land is dry.

Only the stubborn metallic face hold on to the leaf

it's uneasy, just a snake in the desert

she has dropped 20 meters In just three months

now that she has been tamed by the sun,

they arrive from all over the world. Men come here in their rubberboats

they say it is fun.

above the falls, the Zambezi is slow and lazy once again

a meandering oasis in a sun big Savannah

her Islands The only fresh vegetation for miles around

now it is safe for the young ones to cross

the family herd can finally reach the islands to feast on the lush grasses.

But the family is not alone.

Now the river is alive with elephants hundreds arrive

drawn to the river by the fresh food and cool waters.

In the middle of the day, the elephants take refuge

from the hot sun by wallowing and playing

African singing

my god.

forced out of the bee eater colony. The Pied kingfishers have nested alone.

Now they have chicks. They spend all day long fishing

to feed their growing family.

The chicks will only spend a few weeks in the nest.

They have to grow fast, for they are at their most vulnerable now.

Far out on the plains, the waterholes have all dried up in the searing heat,

forcing many animals onto the shores of the Zambesi to drink.

Predators are drawn to the gathering.

relaxing on the beach where they can keep an eye on their next meal.

on the islands, the skimmer chicks are doing well.

They hide from predators in the dunes

while their parents humped the waters above the falls.

Despite their awkward looking beaks skimmers are deft fishermen.

They glide above the surface

trolling for fish with that lower jaw.

At least that's the idea.

The chicks avoid predators by lying still

camouflaged against the sand.

This tactic is risky against one of their biggest threats.

As hippos lumber onto the islands to forage at night,

they can accidentally trampled the tiny chicks.

But during the heat of the day,

the hippos wallow in the cool deep channels.

They live in family groups and are highly territorial.

As the river recedes, all the groups are forced

to gather in the same remaining channels and pools.

Now there are too many hippos in every pool

and the big bulls can't seem to tolerate each other.

shallow pools the hippos have abandoned

are now perfect hunting grounds for the Pined kingfishers.

They are the world's largest true hovering bird

able to hold a steady position without the assistance of a headwind

a valuable skill for fishing.

Oh with chicks to raise they must fish constantly

leaving the nest exposed and vulnerable.

They arrived home a second too late.

The mangoes is a sneaky character

and will take any opportunity he finds

he is a great danger to all who nest along the riverbank.

Despite the daring acrobatics, the parents can do nothing.

They cannot risk meeting the mangoes in the tunnel.

Even with a razor sharp beaks, they are no match for him.

The alarm calls soon attract the attention of another Kingfisher,

but they are helpless

the Mongoose will take all of their chicks

without the protection of the bee eater colony

they have left themselves exposed

and paid the price

it will be a year before they have the chance to nest again

the setting sun brings queriers Home to Roost

these small brown finches fill the sky as they search for a place to settle for
the night

african song

Queriers are the most numerous birds on Earth,

forming flocks millions strong.

above the falls they seek sanctuary among the tall grasses on the islands

as the chatter fades away, Mr. White sets his lines for the night

in the gorge below Victoria Falls

African song

the gorge is a wonderful place for the night

so quiet sometimes I sit down here for a month

drinking tea and fishing every night.

Leaving when I have got plenty of fish for my family

Victoria is most beautiful at night.

The lights from Zimbabwe shine through her spray and set her on fire

then, as the moon climbs high in the sky,

Munna rainbows appear and she becomes more beautiful than you can ever imagine.

High in the trees, eagle eyes, piercing talons and powerful wings

are about to go to work.

The fish Eagles make it all look so Easy.

The Eagles have chicks.

Their skill as fishermen is paid off and they have raised a fine family

for now the adults must do all the work

but soon the youngsters will be able to catch fish for themselves.

The Eagles have had perfect timing.

Their chicks can practice fishing in the shallow clear waters

while the river is still low.

They must learn fast though, because the Zambesi's moods are always changing

and it won't be long before the rains return.

While life has been easy for a fisherman. It's become hard for the border troop.

The spray from the falls no longer reaches their little forest

and the fruits they relied on during the rains have shriveled and died

they are reduced to eating insects of old leaves

and stripping the seeds of dead grasses.

While the youngsters always find time to play

the adults are saving their energy.

They have other plans

the Zambezi marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe

and all must cross on a single bridge to reach the other side.

They say there are bandits at the border,

a fearless gang of thieves

Zimbabwe is in the grip of a tyrant and is facing famine.

So every day, hundreds of people cross into Zambia to buy food.

And when they return, the border troop is waiting for them.

So bold have the baboons become

it seems that they are now in charge of the border post.

Every vehicle is inspected for an easy meal

they'll steal from anyone.

They usually avoid the men

but women and children are easy targets.

Skilled thieves they size up their marks,

only snatching bags they know contain food.

The baboons are so formidable

it's not worth putting up a fight over a bag of chips

the border Troop has found a way to survive.

And so with bellies full, they retreat

to the safety of the gorge next to the falls

but even where there is no safety,

beauty and power of this place shines through

nananana na na na na na na na

The Zambesi is now so small, there is more land than water above the falls.

The year has come full circle.

As the river slides through the shallows half asleep

the world she has created is more alive than ever.

Soon the awkward schema chicks will be ready to fly

ready to fish and to live this place when Zambezi awakes

everyone must be ready when the clouds begin to gather

which will then live here is rude.

These few short weeks at the end of the dry season are my favorite time.

So much life has come to make a home with my friends I'm busy

clouds are gathering in the skies

soon there into return

and the life which relied on this place during the dry season

will be forced out by the rising waters

Victoria will again be a magnificent

her voice arising from a whisper to Thunder.

When Zambesi enters Victoria from the rocks

she brought life to this land

goes and million the secrets beneath our waters,

revealing a few to each of us

to really survive here

for those that understand her,

she will always provide.

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