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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:18,517 --> 00:00:20,448 --captions by vitac-- Www.Vitac.Com 2 00:00:20,448 --> 00:00:22,310 Captions paid for by Discovery communications 3 00:00:22,310 --> 00:00:25,965 Narrator: today on "How it's made" -- 4 00:00:25,965 --> 00:00:28,000 Pétanque balls... 5 00:00:32,137 --> 00:00:34,000 Biologic medicines... 6 00:00:38,137 --> 00:00:39,931 Asphalt pavers... 7 00:00:44,068 --> 00:00:45,793 ...And basque espadrilles. 8 00:00:52,482 --> 00:00:56,034 The french game of pétanque Is somewhat similar 9 00:00:56,034 --> 00:00:58,068 To the italian game of bocce 10 00:00:58,068 --> 00:01:00,517 And the british game Of lawn bowling. 11 00:01:00,517 --> 00:01:02,655 It's played with Hollow steel balls 12 00:01:02,655 --> 00:01:06,379 Called boules On a dirt or gravel surface. 13 00:01:06,379 --> 00:01:08,896 The object of the game Is to toss the balls 14 00:01:08,896 --> 00:01:13,620 As close as possible To a small wooden ball. 15 00:01:13,620 --> 00:01:17,344 The first pétanque players Carved their balls from wood. 16 00:01:17,344 --> 00:01:20,655 By the late 1800s, Players hammered in nails 17 00:01:20,655 --> 00:01:22,379 To make their balls heftier 18 00:01:22,379 --> 00:01:25,586 And less likely to crack When hitting other balls. 19 00:01:25,586 --> 00:01:27,137 Then came brass balls 20 00:01:27,137 --> 00:01:29,827 And later the hollow Steel balls used today. 21 00:01:31,517 --> 00:01:34,586 Manufacturing begins With long bars of carbon 22 00:01:34,586 --> 00:01:36,000 Or stainless steel, 23 00:01:36,000 --> 00:01:38,586 About 1 1/2 inches in diameter. 24 00:01:38,586 --> 00:01:40,275 This is stainless steel. 25 00:01:40,275 --> 00:01:45,137 An automated saw cuts pieces About 1 3/4 inch long. 26 00:01:45,137 --> 00:01:47,551 Workers place the pieces On a conveyer, 27 00:01:47,551 --> 00:01:50,241 Which moves them Into an induction oven. 28 00:01:50,241 --> 00:01:53,620 The oven heats them To between 1,650 29 00:01:53,620 --> 00:01:56,344 And 2,190 degrees fahrenheit, 30 00:01:56,344 --> 00:01:58,862 Softening the steel. 31 00:01:58,862 --> 00:02:01,241 As soon as a piece Comes out of the oven, 32 00:02:01,241 --> 00:02:04,413 The forging press Strikes it three times, 33 00:02:04,413 --> 00:02:07,758 First flattening it into a disk. 34 00:02:07,758 --> 00:02:10,724 Next, thinning the disk, 35 00:02:10,724 --> 00:02:13,689 Then stamping the disk Into a half sphere. 36 00:02:19,413 --> 00:02:21,586 Workers mill the forged Half sphere 37 00:02:21,586 --> 00:02:23,896 On a lathe to refine the shape 38 00:02:23,896 --> 00:02:27,344 And to create a gap they later Fill with metal wire 39 00:02:27,344 --> 00:02:31,862 When they weld this half to Another half to form the ball. 40 00:02:31,862 --> 00:02:35,896 A worker drops the milled halves Down two separate chutes 41 00:02:35,896 --> 00:02:40,655 And deliver two halves at a time To an automated welding machine. 42 00:02:40,655 --> 00:02:42,965 The machine clamps The halves together 43 00:02:42,965 --> 00:02:45,482 And welds them to each other. 44 00:02:45,482 --> 00:02:48,655 A robot removes the ball From the welding machine 45 00:02:48,655 --> 00:02:52,448 And transfers it to a Computer-guided milling machine. 46 00:02:52,448 --> 00:02:56,482 As the machine's lathe spins The ball, a knife shaves off 47 00:02:56,482 --> 00:02:59,206 Thin layers of steel To smooth the ball 48 00:02:59,206 --> 00:03:01,413 And make the weld invisible. 49 00:03:01,413 --> 00:03:04,448 This also puts the ball Within a specific diameter 50 00:03:04,448 --> 00:03:07,724 And weight range in accordance With international rules 51 00:03:07,724 --> 00:03:10,448 Governing the sport. 52 00:03:10,448 --> 00:03:13,655 The machine also engraves A pattern to help identify 53 00:03:13,655 --> 00:03:15,379 Whose balls are whose. 54 00:03:20,482 --> 00:03:22,965 International pétanque rules Require a ball 55 00:03:22,965 --> 00:03:25,724 To have four items Engraved into its surface -- 56 00:03:25,724 --> 00:03:28,172 The brand name, The pattern name, 57 00:03:28,172 --> 00:03:30,586 The weight of the ball, And a serial number 58 00:03:30,586 --> 00:03:34,034 For the set to which It belongs. 59 00:03:34,034 --> 00:03:37,068 Once the brand, pattern And weight are engraved, 60 00:03:37,068 --> 00:03:41,310 The balls move along a conveyor Toward the tempering station. 61 00:03:41,310 --> 00:03:43,172 Cutting, heating, forging, 62 00:03:43,172 --> 00:03:46,275 And machining steel Makes it brittle and weak. 63 00:03:46,275 --> 00:03:48,517 Tempering is the process Of hardening it 64 00:03:48,517 --> 00:03:50,448 To restore its strength. 65 00:03:50,448 --> 00:03:54,275 After heating the ball To between 1,470 66 00:03:54,275 --> 00:03:57,482 And 1,830 degrees fahrenheit, 67 00:03:57,482 --> 00:04:01,620 They immediately cool it in Water that's about 104 degrees, 68 00:04:01,620 --> 00:04:04,000 A process known as quenching. 69 00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:07,620 After tempering the steel, Manufacturers polish the ball 70 00:04:07,620 --> 00:04:09,965 With an automated sander. 71 00:04:09,965 --> 00:04:12,413 The finished balls Do vary slightly, 72 00:04:12,413 --> 00:04:15,931 So this last automated machine Weighs each one 73 00:04:15,931 --> 00:04:18,344 And sorts it in rows Of identical weight. 74 00:04:21,000 --> 00:04:24,379 Then, equal weight balls Are grouped in sets of three 75 00:04:24,379 --> 00:04:28,551 And are engraved with The same serial number. 76 00:04:28,551 --> 00:04:31,827 These pétanque balls Are made of carbon steel. 77 00:04:31,827 --> 00:04:34,137 To prevent oxidation And corrosion, 78 00:04:34,137 --> 00:04:36,965 The factory electroplates Its carbon steel balls 79 00:04:36,965 --> 00:04:40,000 With a protective Layer of chromium. 80 00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:43,206 It submerges the balls In a series of chemical baths 81 00:04:43,206 --> 00:04:45,896 And water baths To prep the surface 82 00:04:45,896 --> 00:04:48,931 For the final dip In an electroplating tank 83 00:04:48,931 --> 00:04:51,655 In which an electrical current Draws chromium particles 84 00:04:51,655 --> 00:04:56,689 Through the water and deposits Them onto the ball's surface. 85 00:04:56,689 --> 00:05:00,551 The chromium treatment Leaves a white film. 86 00:05:00,551 --> 00:05:06,896 This brushing machine removes it And restores the shiny finish. 87 00:05:06,896 --> 00:05:10,551 International rules require Pétanque balls to be 2 3/4 88 00:05:10,551 --> 00:05:13,206 To just over 3 inches in diameter 89 00:05:13,206 --> 00:05:17,517 And weigh between 1 1/2 To 1 3/4 pounds. 90 00:05:17,517 --> 00:05:20,896 The retail box contains Three identical balls 91 00:05:20,896 --> 00:05:23,241 Engraved with the same Serial number, 92 00:05:23,241 --> 00:05:25,206 Along with The wood target ball, 93 00:05:25,206 --> 00:05:29,655 A cleaning cloth, And a warranty card. 94 00:05:29,655 --> 00:05:32,206 The goal of the game Is to toss the balls as close 95 00:05:32,206 --> 00:05:34,586 As possible to the target ball 96 00:05:34,586 --> 00:05:37,586 While knocking the opponents' Balls away from it. 97 00:05:37,586 --> 00:05:40,000 And the player's feet must Remain planted inside 98 00:05:40,000 --> 00:05:41,896 A small circle when tossing. 99 00:05:44,655 --> 00:05:47,206 You can play pétanque indoors In a venue 100 00:05:47,206 --> 00:05:50,000 Known as a boulodrome Or boule bar, 101 00:05:50,000 --> 00:05:51,724 Or you can play outdoors 102 00:05:51,724 --> 00:05:55,275 Anywhere there's a patch Of relatively flat ground. 103 00:06:07,551 --> 00:06:09,931 Narrator: biologic medicines Are proteins 104 00:06:09,931 --> 00:06:12,275 Produced inside living cells, 105 00:06:12,275 --> 00:06:14,448 Which are mini factories Generating 106 00:06:14,448 --> 00:06:17,206 The genetically engineered Protein treatments. 107 00:06:17,206 --> 00:06:20,137 It's a different approach From traditional drugs, 108 00:06:20,137 --> 00:06:23,379 Which are manufactured Using chemical synthesis. 109 00:06:23,379 --> 00:06:27,344 Biologics offer hope where Other therapies have failed. 110 00:06:29,482 --> 00:06:32,068 To mass-produce These biologic medicines, 111 00:06:32,068 --> 00:06:37,448 Scientists use the molecular Machinery inside living cells. 112 00:06:37,448 --> 00:06:40,965 The process starts with the Insertion of genetic material 113 00:06:40,965 --> 00:06:44,172 Into chinese hamster Ovarian cells. 114 00:06:44,172 --> 00:06:46,931 They're known as cho cells. 115 00:06:46,931 --> 00:06:51,275 They keep them frozen in liquid Nitrogen until the next step. 116 00:06:51,275 --> 00:06:55,413 In the seed lab, a technician Thaws the cells in warm water. 117 00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,896 He transfers them To a glass flask 118 00:07:01,896 --> 00:07:05,413 That contains growth media. 119 00:07:05,413 --> 00:07:08,689 The growth media is comprised Of hundreds of nutrients, 120 00:07:08,689 --> 00:07:10,793 Including vitamins and minerals. 121 00:07:10,793 --> 00:07:13,551 It's a recipe to help The cells multiply. 122 00:07:17,241 --> 00:07:20,862 A worker transfers the flask That contains the cells 123 00:07:20,862 --> 00:07:24,379 To the production side Of the plant. 124 00:07:24,379 --> 00:07:26,241 The team injects the mixture 125 00:07:26,241 --> 00:07:31,000 Into a 5-gallon-capacity Bioreactor. 126 00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:35,862 Inside, a propeller agitates The mixture to stimulate growth. 127 00:07:35,862 --> 00:07:37,517 Over a 3-week period, 128 00:07:37,517 --> 00:07:40,931 The number of cells Increases exponentially. 129 00:07:40,931 --> 00:07:42,586 Each new cell is programmed 130 00:07:42,586 --> 00:07:45,896 To produce the target Biologic protein. 131 00:07:45,896 --> 00:07:50,551 A worker sterilizes this 21-gallon-capacity bioreactor 132 00:07:50,551 --> 00:07:53,413 To prepare it to receive The cell mixture. 133 00:07:53,413 --> 00:07:57,137 Under precisely controlled Conditions in the bioreactor, 134 00:07:57,137 --> 00:08:00,448 The cells multiply Substantially. 135 00:08:00,448 --> 00:08:03,896 Over several weeks, the team Transfers the cells 136 00:08:03,896 --> 00:08:07,172 To progressively Larger bioreactors. 137 00:08:07,172 --> 00:08:10,068 The cells grow until There are trillions, 138 00:08:10,068 --> 00:08:13,379 Each producing The target protein. 139 00:08:13,379 --> 00:08:18,517 Next, a technician measures Salts and other dry ingredients. 140 00:08:18,517 --> 00:08:22,206 He's preparing a recipe For purifying the protein liquid 141 00:08:22,206 --> 00:08:26,379 Once it's been separated From the cells. 142 00:08:26,379 --> 00:08:29,034 He labels the bag and records The information 143 00:08:29,034 --> 00:08:33,896 Separately as required By government regulations. 144 00:08:33,896 --> 00:08:38,068 He adds the ingredients to Purified water in a mixing tank. 145 00:08:38,068 --> 00:08:40,793 An automated system keeps tabs On the condition 146 00:08:40,793 --> 00:08:43,275 Of the purification solution. 147 00:08:47,137 --> 00:08:49,379 After separating Cellular material 148 00:08:49,379 --> 00:08:51,068 From the protein mixture, 149 00:08:51,068 --> 00:08:54,517 The team pumps it through Steel and glass columns. 150 00:08:54,517 --> 00:08:58,172 Here, the purification solution Works with resin beads 151 00:08:58,172 --> 00:09:00,931 To separate the protein From the impurities. 152 00:09:04,758 --> 00:09:07,620 The purified protein Is stored in steel tanks 153 00:09:07,620 --> 00:09:10,310 At -4 degrees fahrenheit. 154 00:09:10,310 --> 00:09:14,931 It keeps the biologic medicine In a stable state. 155 00:09:14,931 --> 00:09:17,517 Meanwhile, In the quality control lab, 156 00:09:17,517 --> 00:09:22,448 A technician injects a sample Into glass capsules. 157 00:09:22,448 --> 00:09:26,931 She places the capsules into A robotic analytical instrument. 158 00:09:26,931 --> 00:09:30,413 This sophisticated equipment Measures the potency and purity 159 00:09:30,413 --> 00:09:32,517 Of the biologic medicine. 160 00:09:35,482 --> 00:09:38,413 Once the biologic medicine Passes the tests, 161 00:09:38,413 --> 00:09:41,275 They prepare glass vials To receive it. 162 00:09:41,275 --> 00:09:43,551 That means An intensive cleaning. 163 00:09:45,344 --> 00:09:49,206 The automated system loads The vials into individual slots, 164 00:09:49,206 --> 00:09:52,206 And sprayers rinse them. 165 00:09:52,206 --> 00:09:55,551 The system then transports The vials through a heat tunnel 166 00:09:55,551 --> 00:10:01,793 That sterilizes them to remove Any potentially harmful toxins. 167 00:10:01,793 --> 00:10:04,413 Moving through an isolated Sterile zone, 168 00:10:04,413 --> 00:10:08,931 The vials funnel Into a fill station. 169 00:10:08,931 --> 00:10:12,586 Nozzles dispense a specific Dose of biologic medicine 170 00:10:12,586 --> 00:10:16,034 Into the vials. 171 00:10:16,034 --> 00:10:19,724 Here, plungers insert Stoppers in the vials. 172 00:10:19,724 --> 00:10:21,724 A camera then takes a picture, 173 00:10:21,724 --> 00:10:24,206 And a computer Instantly analyzes it 174 00:10:24,206 --> 00:10:29,310 To confirm that the stoppers Have been correctly installed. 175 00:10:29,310 --> 00:10:32,413 The system then caps the Stoppers to completely seal them 176 00:10:32,413 --> 00:10:34,448 From contaminants. 177 00:10:34,448 --> 00:10:37,551 This machinery hygienically Fills and caps 178 00:10:37,551 --> 00:10:40,724 Over 100 vials per minute. 179 00:10:40,724 --> 00:10:43,827 A worker visually Inspects each vial. 180 00:10:43,827 --> 00:10:48,241 He carefully swirls the contents As he looks for impurities. 181 00:10:48,241 --> 00:10:52,000 If he sees any, the vial Of medicine will be rejected. 182 00:10:54,241 --> 00:10:58,034 Finally, this technician takes A sample and conducts a test 183 00:10:58,034 --> 00:11:00,310 To ensure the medicine Is sterile. 184 00:11:02,482 --> 00:11:04,275 Grown in living cells, 185 00:11:04,275 --> 00:11:07,103 These biologic medicines Are now on their way 186 00:11:07,103 --> 00:11:11,000 To potentially making A difference in people's lives. 187 00:11:22,689 --> 00:11:24,758 Narrator: the development Of the asphalt paver 188 00:11:24,758 --> 00:11:27,034 In the early part Of the 20th century 189 00:11:27,034 --> 00:11:29,620 Changed the way roads Were built. 190 00:11:29,620 --> 00:11:32,482 The paving machine took over From large crews 191 00:11:32,482 --> 00:11:36,379 Who paved surfaces manually Using picks and shovels. 192 00:11:36,379 --> 00:11:40,206 This invention has made it A lot easier to pave the way. 193 00:11:43,931 --> 00:11:48,413 The asphalt paver transforms Rough roads into smooth ones. 194 00:11:48,413 --> 00:11:51,758 This paving machine distributes Asphalt, levels it, 195 00:11:51,758 --> 00:11:54,482 And also provides The initial compaction. 196 00:11:57,103 --> 00:12:00,793 Making one starts with A computerized plasma cutter. 197 00:12:00,793 --> 00:12:03,724 The operator programs it To cut out all the parts of 198 00:12:03,724 --> 00:12:07,620 The paver structure From heavy-gauge steel plates. 199 00:12:07,620 --> 00:12:11,586 It also configures the cutting To minimize waste. 200 00:12:11,586 --> 00:12:14,551 The plasma tooling also cuts And threads holes 201 00:12:14,551 --> 00:12:17,758 For bolting the parts together. 202 00:12:17,758 --> 00:12:19,689 Once the parts have been cut, 203 00:12:19,689 --> 00:12:23,000 A crane transfers them To a welding fixture. 204 00:12:25,034 --> 00:12:27,517 The fixture holds the parts For the paver frame 205 00:12:27,517 --> 00:12:28,965 In tight alignment 206 00:12:28,965 --> 00:12:31,344 While a welder tacks Them together. 207 00:12:34,206 --> 00:12:37,379 He also tack welds smaller parts Like engine mounts 208 00:12:37,379 --> 00:12:39,827 To the structure. 209 00:12:39,827 --> 00:12:44,103 Once the tack welds are done, He does full welds throughout, 210 00:12:44,103 --> 00:12:46,827 Creating strong, thick seams. 211 00:12:49,827 --> 00:12:53,862 A team loads more steel into A computerized press break. 212 00:12:53,862 --> 00:12:55,275 It clamps the steel plate 213 00:12:55,275 --> 00:12:57,896 Between A matching punch and die. 214 00:12:57,896 --> 00:13:00,172 Then, using hydraulic power, 215 00:13:00,172 --> 00:13:02,965 The press break makes Precise bends 216 00:13:02,965 --> 00:13:08,103 To shape the steel into A section of the paver hopper. 217 00:13:08,103 --> 00:13:11,137 With the first bend done, One of the workers measures 218 00:13:11,137 --> 00:13:13,137 The angle with a digital level 219 00:13:13,137 --> 00:13:15,517 To confirm that It's exactly right. 220 00:13:18,137 --> 00:13:20,896 The team then moves the steel Plate into position 221 00:13:20,896 --> 00:13:22,448 For the next bends. 222 00:13:22,448 --> 00:13:26,172 They make a total of three In the hopper part. 223 00:13:26,172 --> 00:13:28,793 Those three bends must be Perfectly angled 224 00:13:28,793 --> 00:13:31,275 And positioned to fit The rest of the hopper. 225 00:13:34,896 --> 00:13:38,827 It's why precision is critical. 226 00:13:38,827 --> 00:13:44,034 They do a final check of the Three bends using a template. 227 00:13:44,034 --> 00:13:47,344 Next, a welder joins A side panel to the hopper part 228 00:13:47,344 --> 00:13:49,241 With the three bends. 229 00:13:49,241 --> 00:13:52,517 These two parts form The left side of the hopper. 230 00:13:54,724 --> 00:13:58,103 After an acid wash, it's into The paint booth to coat 231 00:13:58,103 --> 00:14:01,517 The steel with an epoxy primer And urethane paint. 232 00:14:07,896 --> 00:14:10,000 The parts then spend time In an oven 233 00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:13,965 To accelerate the paint cure. 234 00:14:13,965 --> 00:14:16,034 Then it's over to The assembly line, 235 00:14:16,034 --> 00:14:21,068 Where construction of the paver Tractor is already underway. 236 00:14:21,068 --> 00:14:24,413 A worker bolts gear systems To the sides. 237 00:14:24,413 --> 00:14:27,551 These gears will drive The paver wheels. 238 00:14:30,896 --> 00:14:32,517 With the help of a crane, 239 00:14:32,517 --> 00:14:37,068 The team guides The engine into position. 240 00:14:37,068 --> 00:14:39,689 The engine's mounting structure Mates to bushings 241 00:14:39,689 --> 00:14:41,379 In four locations. 242 00:14:43,931 --> 00:14:47,586 They now assemble the hopper to The front of the paving machine. 243 00:14:49,931 --> 00:14:53,068 Hinge tubes on the hopper part Intermesh with tubes 244 00:14:53,068 --> 00:14:55,551 On the center Conveyor framework. 245 00:14:55,551 --> 00:14:58,275 They'll run a long pin Through these hinge tubes 246 00:14:58,275 --> 00:15:01,586 To complete the assembly. 247 00:15:01,586 --> 00:15:03,724 With everything in good Working order, 248 00:15:03,724 --> 00:15:05,655 They're ready to build The screed, 249 00:15:05,655 --> 00:15:08,000 Beginning with the base plate. 250 00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:10,931 The screed is a critical Apparatus. 251 00:15:10,931 --> 00:15:13,758 Its system of vibrating Extenders both levels 252 00:15:13,758 --> 00:15:17,793 And compacts the asphalt Once it's deposited on the road. 253 00:15:17,793 --> 00:15:19,827 They're also equipped With heating elements 254 00:15:19,827 --> 00:15:23,413 To keep the asphalt workable. 255 00:15:23,413 --> 00:15:26,103 They run a battery of tests On all these components 256 00:15:26,103 --> 00:15:29,413 To confirm that the screed Is fully operational. 257 00:15:32,482 --> 00:15:37,413 The screed is now ready to be Mated to the paver tractor. 258 00:15:37,413 --> 00:15:41,137 They put the tractor in reverse And back it up to the screed 259 00:15:41,137 --> 00:15:44,482 Until brackets on both meet In perfect alignment. 260 00:15:47,379 --> 00:15:49,931 Once the brackets have been Bolted together, 261 00:15:49,931 --> 00:15:53,724 The asphalt paver Is ready for work. 262 00:15:53,724 --> 00:15:57,172 The road ahead will be long And potentially winding, 263 00:15:57,172 --> 00:16:01,551 But it should be pretty smooth, Thanks to this asphalt paver. 264 00:16:12,344 --> 00:16:14,482 Narrator: espadrilles Have been a popular style 265 00:16:14,482 --> 00:16:17,206 Of casual footwear For decades now, 266 00:16:17,206 --> 00:16:18,827 Yet most people Likely don't know 267 00:16:18,827 --> 00:16:22,137 The origin of this Comfortable cloth shoe. 268 00:16:22,137 --> 00:16:26,310 Europeans have been wearing Espadrilles since the 1300s. 269 00:16:26,310 --> 00:16:29,965 The basque region in northern Spain is still famous for them. 270 00:16:31,896 --> 00:16:36,586 Espadrilles are fashion forward And a step back in time. 271 00:16:36,586 --> 00:16:39,517 The people of the basque region Have been making these cloth 272 00:16:39,517 --> 00:16:42,344 And jute shoes For hundreds of years. 273 00:16:42,344 --> 00:16:48,275 They began reinforcing the soles With rubber in the early 1900s. 274 00:16:48,275 --> 00:16:53,103 Jute is a plant fiber that's Spun into strong, coarse twine. 275 00:16:53,103 --> 00:16:55,103 For traditional basque Espadrilles, 276 00:16:55,103 --> 00:16:58,827 They use twine that's about 1/10th of an inch thick. 277 00:16:58,827 --> 00:17:02,827 Large jute spools feed An automated braiding machine. 278 00:17:02,827 --> 00:17:05,206 Its five bobbins move In a circular pattern 279 00:17:05,206 --> 00:17:07,413 That produces a neat Braid measuring 280 00:17:07,413 --> 00:17:09,482 Roughly 3/4ths Of an inch wide 281 00:17:09,482 --> 00:17:11,620 By a quarter of an inch thick. 282 00:17:14,241 --> 00:17:16,517 Right after exiting The braiding machine, 283 00:17:16,517 --> 00:17:19,034 The braid enters A calibration machine 284 00:17:19,034 --> 00:17:23,620 Which applies tension To make the dimensions uniform. 285 00:17:23,620 --> 00:17:28,034 Each espadrille sole Is hand-crafted by an artisan. 286 00:17:28,034 --> 00:17:32,413 He winds the braid on a form That's more than a century old. 287 00:17:32,413 --> 00:17:35,137 The positioning of the metal Pegs in the holes 288 00:17:35,137 --> 00:17:38,448 Correspond to the size Of the shoe he's making. 289 00:17:38,448 --> 00:17:40,793 The closer the pegs Are to each other, 290 00:17:40,793 --> 00:17:43,172 The smaller the shoe size. 291 00:17:43,172 --> 00:17:47,620 After nine rotations for this Shoe size, he cuts the braid, 292 00:17:47,620 --> 00:17:51,310 Then, using a large needle, Ties off the end. 293 00:17:54,103 --> 00:17:57,034 He places the wound braid Into a press 294 00:17:57,034 --> 00:17:59,103 Which, as we see here In slow motion, 295 00:17:59,103 --> 00:18:01,758 Compresses it into The shape of the sole. 296 00:18:08,241 --> 00:18:14,068 In real time, this step takes Just a couple of seconds. 297 00:18:14,068 --> 00:18:17,896 Then he picks up the sole With a comb 298 00:18:17,896 --> 00:18:20,931 And feeds it into An automated sewing machine. 299 00:18:26,206 --> 00:18:31,137 Two large needles, one above, One below, simultaneously stitch 300 00:18:31,137 --> 00:18:34,413 All the way through the sole With thick jute thread, 301 00:18:34,413 --> 00:18:36,379 Binding the wound jute braid. 302 00:18:42,896 --> 00:18:46,758 This machine sews more than 100 pairs of soles per hour. 303 00:18:50,310 --> 00:18:53,034 By now, the espadrilles' Signature jute sole 304 00:18:53,034 --> 00:18:54,862 Is formed and sewn, 305 00:18:54,862 --> 00:18:57,034 But it's not quite finished yet. 306 00:18:57,034 --> 00:18:58,827 To prevent it from wearing out, 307 00:18:58,827 --> 00:19:01,448 It needs a protective layer Of rubber. 308 00:19:04,241 --> 00:19:08,344 The artisan now opens a mold For the corresponding shoe size 309 00:19:08,344 --> 00:19:10,586 And fills The sole-shaped cavities 310 00:19:10,586 --> 00:19:14,517 With a pre-measured quantity Of colorless rubber granules. 311 00:19:17,068 --> 00:19:19,896 Then, he places The jute soles on top. 312 00:19:24,172 --> 00:19:28,931 He closes the mold and places it In a press for 6 minutes. 313 00:19:28,931 --> 00:19:32,517 The press heats the mold To 300 degrees fahrenheit, 314 00:19:32,517 --> 00:19:35,344 Melting the rubber granules. 315 00:19:35,344 --> 00:19:38,344 The liquid rubber spreads Throughout the cavities, 316 00:19:38,344 --> 00:19:41,586 Penetrates the jute fibers And vulcanizes, 317 00:19:41,586 --> 00:19:44,758 Meaning it hardens and cures. 318 00:19:44,758 --> 00:19:46,724 This produces A rubber outer sole 319 00:19:46,724 --> 00:19:48,344 About 1/6th of an inch thick 320 00:19:48,344 --> 00:19:51,172 That protects The jute inner sole. 321 00:19:51,172 --> 00:19:55,758 The espadrilles' uppers are made Of 100-percent-cotton canvas. 322 00:19:55,758 --> 00:19:58,344 The artisan stacks About 20 pieces 323 00:19:58,344 --> 00:20:00,344 And cuts them simultaneously 324 00:20:00,344 --> 00:20:04,172 With a razor-like blade. 325 00:20:04,172 --> 00:20:09,172 Each upper is comprised of a Front piece and a back piece. 326 00:20:09,172 --> 00:20:13,310 A seamstress sews the upper Entirely by hand. 327 00:20:13,310 --> 00:20:17,068 She wears a glove that has a Copper cup built into the palm, 328 00:20:17,068 --> 00:20:18,344 Which she uses to force 329 00:20:18,344 --> 00:20:21,827 The giant needle Through the tough jute. 330 00:20:21,827 --> 00:20:25,000 After stitching the front And back pieces to the sole, 331 00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:28,413 She sews them to each other Along the sides. 332 00:20:31,413 --> 00:20:35,482 She closes and reinforces the Toe with three rows of stitches. 333 00:20:38,793 --> 00:20:42,275 All this with strong, thick Thread made of braided cotton. 334 00:20:44,379 --> 00:20:47,931 This maker of basque espadrilles Prides itself in using 335 00:20:47,931 --> 00:20:52,310 Only natural materials, Even in the paper packaging. 336 00:20:52,310 --> 00:20:55,551 The rubber used for the soles Contains no colorants 337 00:20:55,551 --> 00:20:57,862 But is infused with citronella, 338 00:20:57,862 --> 00:21:01,689 A fragrant plant oil believed To help repel mosquitoes. 27946

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