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We live on a crowded planet
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00:00:20,189 --> 00:00:23,210
but there are still vast areas
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where nature has the upper-hand.
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It looks like another planet.
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I'm heading to the
last great wildernesses.
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I'll try to cross four of
these rugged landscapes
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00:00:41,250 --> 00:00:42,848
Oh, my God!
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on my toughest journeys yet.
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I have to be honest.
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Things are not
going brilliantly.
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A bit of a medical situation.
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00:00:50,049 --> 00:00:51,850
Help is a long way away.
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00:00:54,289 --> 00:00:55,850
- Well done.
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00:00:56,850 --> 00:01:00,128
- I want to meet the people for
whom the wilderness is home
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Testicles for breakfast,
lunch and dinner.
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00:01:04,969 --> 00:01:08,128
to see how they
live alongside nature.
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00:01:08,130 --> 00:01:09,369
Whoa!
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I can stay down there
for a minute or so,
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00:01:14,450 --> 00:01:17,649
he's still down there
now, walking around!
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00:01:17,650 --> 00:01:20,649
And in this critical
time for our world
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Huge carcasses of great trees.
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seek out the rare and majestic
creatures that still survive
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My heart is racing.
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in some of the most
hostile environments.
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Are you OK, Jonathan?
- Yeah, yeah.
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- and the remotest regions
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Bloody hell!
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00:01:40,289 --> 00:01:42,170
of our wild planet.
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Coo!
- Coo!
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- Big cats roaming free.
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This surely is the absolute
definition of a real wilderness.
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00:02:16,530 --> 00:02:18,329
I'm on the coast of Indonesia,
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00:02:18,330 --> 00:02:19,769
onboard the Bernetta -
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00:02:19,770 --> 00:02:21,449
a converted fishing boat
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00:02:21,449 --> 00:02:24,409
that's going to be my home
for the next three weeks.
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00:02:29,650 --> 00:02:31,288
We're taking on board fuel
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00:02:31,289 --> 00:02:33,370
and supplies for
the long journey.
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00:02:38,810 --> 00:02:41,528
All right. We're off!
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00:02:41,530 --> 00:02:43,490
We're heading out to sea.
40
00:02:44,770 --> 00:02:48,489
We're travelling just a
small area on this map really
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00:02:48,490 --> 00:02:51,248
and that's going to
take us days and days,
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00:02:51,250 --> 00:02:53,129
and nights out on the ocean.
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00:03:00,569 --> 00:03:04,449
This is the remote south-west
corner of the Pacific Ocean.
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00:03:06,770 --> 00:03:10,170
A vast expanse of tropical sea
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00:03:11,449 --> 00:03:14,250
dotted with thousands
of jungle-clad islands.
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00:03:16,129 --> 00:03:18,689
It's known as the
Coral Triangle.
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00:03:22,889 --> 00:03:25,209
My guide here is Nesha Ichida.
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00:03:25,210 --> 00:03:27,129
- Oh, oh, dolphins, dolphins!
49
00:03:28,650 --> 00:03:30,088
That's a dolphin.
50
00:03:30,090 --> 00:03:32,170
- Just there?
- Yeah, yeah, yeah. I saw it.
51
00:03:33,370 --> 00:03:35,329
- She's a marine
conservationist,
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00:03:35,329 --> 00:03:36,688
who's spent her career
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00:03:36,689 --> 00:03:39,849
studying and protecting the
wonders of the Coral Triangle.
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00:03:42,250 --> 00:03:45,968
- So, the Coral Triangle is the
centre of all marine biodiversity.
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It's just generally
home to hundreds
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00:03:48,210 --> 00:03:50,049
and hundreds of inhabitants,
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00:03:50,050 --> 00:03:52,808
from coral reef, fishes,
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00:03:52,810 --> 00:03:54,329
large megafauna -
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00:03:54,329 --> 00:03:58,289
it's insane how many
species are in one little area.
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00:04:00,009 --> 00:04:01,649
- Just here, look.
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00:04:01,650 --> 00:04:05,930
What a reminder they are of
how much glorious life there is.
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00:04:06,849 --> 00:04:09,128
I think this is a very good omen
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00:04:09,129 --> 00:04:11,169
because we're going to travel
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00:04:11,169 --> 00:04:13,128
about 1,000 miles to the East
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00:04:13,129 --> 00:04:16,568
by boat, and if
something goes wrong,
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00:04:16,569 --> 00:04:18,449
help is a long way away.
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00:04:20,250 --> 00:04:24,088
The "Coral Triangle" is a
name for the sea around mainly
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00:04:24,090 --> 00:04:27,329
the Philippines,
Malaysia and Indonesia.
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00:04:27,329 --> 00:04:31,288
It might just be the most
important patch of sea on the planet.
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00:04:31,290 --> 00:04:35,088
I'm going to be travelling
almost 1,000 miles
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00:04:35,089 --> 00:04:39,209
through the very heart
of this marine wilderness,
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00:04:39,209 --> 00:04:41,928
starting in the remote
Togean Islands of Indonesia.
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00:04:41,930 --> 00:04:45,528
I'll sail east to a stunning
tropical archipelago
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00:04:45,529 --> 00:04:47,288
called Raja Ampat.
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00:04:47,290 --> 00:04:49,048
On from there,
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00:04:49,050 --> 00:04:52,608
I hope to reach a remote bay
on the coast of New Guinea
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00:04:52,610 --> 00:04:55,569
to search for one of
the Coral Triangle's
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00:04:55,569 --> 00:04:58,129
most spectacular
creatures - whale sharks.
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00:05:05,050 --> 00:05:07,129
These are the Togean Islands.
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00:05:07,129 --> 00:05:10,889
We're heading in sort of that way
and we're going to meet a community
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00:05:10,889 --> 00:05:15,610
of people who spend most of
their lives living in and on the water.
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00:05:20,250 --> 00:05:23,129
I'm visiting a people
called the Bajau.
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00:05:23,129 --> 00:05:25,329
They're known as sea nomads.
84
00:05:25,329 --> 00:05:28,649
For centuries, they've roamed
the tropical waters of the region.
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00:05:32,089 --> 00:05:34,569
I'm hoping the Bajau
can introduce me
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00:05:34,569 --> 00:05:37,170
to the underwater wilderness
of the Coral Triangle.
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00:05:38,250 --> 00:05:39,968
Here in the Togean Islands,
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00:05:39,970 --> 00:05:43,369
1,000 miles from
Indonesia's capital city,
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00:05:43,370 --> 00:05:47,088
perched on a coral reef
in the middle of the sea,
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00:05:47,090 --> 00:05:49,329
they've built a
village on stilts.
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00:05:53,649 --> 00:05:57,649
- So, we're arriving at the
Bajau village called Cabanatuan.
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00:05:58,769 --> 00:06:00,730
- What an extraordinary place.
93
00:06:07,090 --> 00:06:10,129
We've got coral reef just on
the edge of the community.
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00:06:10,129 --> 00:06:11,928
We've got to find
our way through.
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00:06:11,930 --> 00:06:13,488
Because it's so shallow,
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00:06:13,490 --> 00:06:15,769
we might we might hit something.
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00:06:15,769 --> 00:06:18,009
- That is a stunning reef.
98
00:06:20,050 --> 00:06:21,728
- It's quite impressive
that it's here,
99
00:06:21,730 --> 00:06:24,009
so close to the community, isn't it?
- Yeah.
100
00:06:28,889 --> 00:06:30,968
- The kids being dragged
out on the boat there!
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00:06:30,970 --> 00:06:32,769
Hello!
102
00:06:32,769 --> 00:06:34,168
- Little tots.
103
00:06:34,170 --> 00:06:35,848
Hello!
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00:06:35,850 --> 00:06:37,970
Oh, little tots in
the water here!
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00:06:39,730 --> 00:06:41,930
What a way of life, eh?
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00:06:43,610 --> 00:06:45,329
Perched right out over the sea.
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00:06:47,409 --> 00:06:48,970
Right, let's go and say hello.
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00:06:50,329 --> 00:06:51,728
Bari!
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00:06:51,730 --> 00:06:54,048
Bari Lahama is one of
the elders of the village.
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00:06:54,050 --> 00:06:57,930
Thank you very much indeed
for having us come to visit.
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00:07:00,009 --> 00:07:02,129
What work do most
people do here?
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00:07:14,050 --> 00:07:17,288
Bari and his family rely
on what he can catch,
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00:07:17,290 --> 00:07:20,410
trap or spear
sustainably in the sea.
114
00:07:22,850 --> 00:07:25,889
He's renowned as one of the
best fishermen in the village.
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00:07:29,129 --> 00:07:31,329
Oh, we're going that way. That's good.
- Yeah.
116
00:07:31,329 --> 00:07:32,889
- Bari has agreed to take us out
117
00:07:32,889 --> 00:07:35,649
and show us the wonders
of the undersea world.
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00:07:41,250 --> 00:07:43,129
That looks very stable.
119
00:07:46,370 --> 00:07:47,810
Right, and we're off!
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00:07:49,569 --> 00:07:51,968
Are you leaning back to try
and make it a bit more stable?
121
00:07:51,970 --> 00:07:53,048
- Yes.
122
00:07:53,050 --> 00:07:56,129
- I think we might be in a
spot of bother in terms of that.
123
00:07:56,129 --> 00:07:57,290
- We're good!
124
00:08:31,490 --> 00:08:35,209
- This is the real wilderness
of the Coral Triangle,
125
00:08:35,209 --> 00:08:36,689
beneath the waves.
126
00:08:44,970 --> 00:08:48,288
With one huge final
breath filling his lungs,
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00:08:48,289 --> 00:08:50,289
Bari begins his descent.
128
00:09:05,210 --> 00:09:08,249
His only equipment is
a home-made speargun,
129
00:09:08,250 --> 00:09:10,850
made with a piece
of elastic on a pole.
130
00:09:12,649 --> 00:09:14,969
Within a minute,
he's 15 metres down
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00:09:14,970 --> 00:09:16,570
and beginning the hunt.
132
00:09:19,769 --> 00:09:22,969
Every second he's
down is a calculation.
133
00:09:22,970 --> 00:09:26,328
If he pushes himself too far,
134
00:09:26,330 --> 00:09:28,529
he could easily
blackout and drown.
135
00:09:31,009 --> 00:09:33,048
After just under two minutes,
136
00:09:33,049 --> 00:09:34,850
he's down at 20 metres
137
00:09:36,450 --> 00:09:39,610
below the level even most
scuba divers should be going.
138
00:09:47,009 --> 00:09:49,369
Oh, my goodness.
139
00:09:49,370 --> 00:09:53,009
I mean, he is an
astonishing human being.
140
00:09:53,009 --> 00:09:58,249
I can stay down there for a
minute or so, not much longer.
141
00:09:58,250 --> 00:10:00,328
But he's still down there now,
142
00:10:00,330 --> 00:10:02,489
just walking around
on the seabed,
143
00:10:02,490 --> 00:10:04,769
looking for more food.
144
00:10:04,769 --> 00:10:06,970
I'll go back down
and try and join him.
145
00:10:33,929 --> 00:10:36,769
Finally, Bari's
having some success.
146
00:10:38,289 --> 00:10:41,688
But all he's getting
are smaller reef fish,
147
00:10:41,690 --> 00:10:44,529
which means he keeps
diving for hour after hour.
148
00:10:46,370 --> 00:10:49,808
The bodies of the Bajau have
evolved over thousands of years.
149
00:10:49,809 --> 00:10:53,048
Scientists have established
their blood can actually absorb
150
00:10:53,049 --> 00:10:55,928
and hold more oxygen
than the rest of us,
151
00:10:55,929 --> 00:10:59,408
keeping them alive
under water for longer.
152
00:10:59,409 --> 00:11:01,649
They're like human seals,
153
00:11:01,649 --> 00:11:05,330
able to free dive down as
deep as 60 metres underwater.
154
00:11:08,129 --> 00:11:11,690
It is an astonishing
sight to see.
155
00:11:13,330 --> 00:11:16,328
I mean, the Bajau can
stay down for not just
156
00:11:16,330 --> 00:11:18,408
two, three, four minutes,
157
00:11:18,409 --> 00:11:21,369
but 11, 12 even 13 minutes,
158
00:11:21,370 --> 00:11:23,249
without coming up for a breath.
159
00:11:23,250 --> 00:11:27,049
They've just adapted
to their watery world.
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00:11:33,289 --> 00:11:35,928
For generations, the
Bajau have lived like this
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00:11:35,929 --> 00:11:38,370
from the riches of
the Coral Triangle.
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00:11:56,889 --> 00:11:59,369
Such a simple landscape here.
163
00:11:59,370 --> 00:12:02,769
There's land, there's
sky, there's sea,
164
00:12:02,769 --> 00:12:06,570
but under that surface there is a
whole other dimension of the planet.
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00:12:45,529 --> 00:12:48,769
Back in the Bajau
village, Bari and his wife,
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00:12:48,769 --> 00:12:53,769
Mamma Henni, offer to put us up
for the night in their house on stilts.
167
00:12:53,769 --> 00:12:55,288
In here
168
00:12:55,289 --> 00:12:57,649
So this is the wash area,
169
00:12:57,649 --> 00:13:00,850
the shower and
the toilet as well.
170
00:13:02,250 --> 00:13:04,769
A hole down here,
and beneath it,
171
00:13:04,769 --> 00:13:07,210
well, that's the sea.
172
00:13:08,850 --> 00:13:12,009
The Bajau have kept an
intimate connection with the ocean
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00:13:12,009 --> 00:13:14,009
for generations,
174
00:13:14,009 --> 00:13:16,688
but now, of course, they're
also linked to the wider world,
175
00:13:16,690 --> 00:13:20,529
and many teenagers here are
scrolling screens like everywhere else.
176
00:13:22,009 --> 00:13:23,769
A critical job has
been delegated.
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00:13:29,850 --> 00:13:31,568
- Shiraliah.
- Shiraliah?
178
00:13:31,570 --> 00:13:33,809
- Yes.
- That is a beautiful name.
179
00:13:42,850 --> 00:13:44,169
I think it's a mission fail.
180
00:13:47,289 --> 00:13:49,129
And then this is
where I am tonight.
181
00:13:51,009 --> 00:13:54,048
I'm going to sleep on
the Premier League.
182
00:13:54,049 --> 00:13:55,610
Night, all!
183
00:14:14,210 --> 00:14:16,850
That was just about the
worst night's sleep ever.
184
00:14:18,330 --> 00:14:19,928
Total truth.
185
00:14:26,090 --> 00:14:28,529
Wish it had rained
last night, to be honest.
186
00:14:30,169 --> 00:14:33,970
It's noisy, but it would drown
out the bloody cockerels!
187
00:14:36,730 --> 00:14:39,729
The chickens provide
some meat and eggs,
188
00:14:39,730 --> 00:14:42,370
but most of life here
revolves around fishing.
189
00:14:46,009 --> 00:14:48,889
The family eat what Bari catches
190
00:14:48,889 --> 00:14:51,288
but, to buy clothes
and other essentials,
191
00:14:51,289 --> 00:14:54,730
he also sells fish at a nearby
market to people from other islands.
192
00:14:59,370 --> 00:15:01,409
I'm trying to help
with breakfast.
193
00:15:04,690 --> 00:15:05,850
OK.
194
00:15:08,450 --> 00:15:11,048
Are you proud of
Bari for what he does?
195
00:15:11,049 --> 00:15:13,529
Do you worry about him
when he goes fishing?
196
00:15:29,690 --> 00:15:32,529
It's not surprising
Mamma Henni worries.
197
00:15:34,370 --> 00:15:37,729
Bari usually goes out
alone in his small boat,
198
00:15:37,730 --> 00:15:40,048
sometimes miles out to sea,
199
00:15:40,049 --> 00:15:42,370
diving to crazy depths.
200
00:15:44,169 --> 00:15:47,928
That's risky enough, without
even thinking about the powerful
201
00:15:47,929 --> 00:15:50,808
tiger sharks that
hunt in these waters.
202
00:15:50,809 --> 00:15:53,370
Bari, is what you do dangerous?
203
00:16:57,570 --> 00:16:59,649
Bari, I'm really sorry to ask,
204
00:16:59,649 --> 00:17:02,450
but what happened
to your brother-in-law?
205
00:17:51,450 --> 00:17:53,849
Bari can't afford
to stop fishing.
206
00:17:55,049 --> 00:17:57,048
A paltry catch during the day
207
00:17:57,049 --> 00:17:59,170
means he's heading out again.
208
00:18:00,650 --> 00:18:03,608
He's going to face the
demons, the sharks,
209
00:18:03,609 --> 00:18:06,329
and the depths, in the dark.
210
00:18:08,730 --> 00:18:12,608
I do like the sea when I can
actually have some vision,
211
00:18:12,609 --> 00:18:14,648
where there is a sun above.
212
00:18:14,650 --> 00:18:17,929
Going into the sea at night Um
213
00:18:17,930 --> 00:18:19,890
A little bit
apprehensive about it.
214
00:18:35,369 --> 00:18:38,288
At night, the beautiful
reef I saw in daytime
215
00:18:38,289 --> 00:18:40,848
is transformed
into an eerie world,
216
00:18:40,849 --> 00:18:42,569
almost ghostly.
217
00:18:44,329 --> 00:18:47,409
Many fish are asleep
or hiding from the sharks
218
00:18:47,410 --> 00:18:49,130
that come out to hunt at night.
219
00:18:55,410 --> 00:18:59,009
In the dark ocean, alone
and miles from any help,
220
00:18:59,009 --> 00:19:01,048
it does feel dangerous,
221
00:19:01,049 --> 00:19:04,410
as if anything could emerge
from the inky black gloom.
222
00:19:07,329 --> 00:19:10,849
That's a danger Bari is
facing more and more often.
223
00:19:17,809 --> 00:19:20,368
He doesn't take
much from the sea
224
00:19:20,369 --> 00:19:23,769
but commercial fishing
around the Coral Triangle
225
00:19:23,769 --> 00:19:26,009
by trawlers and
foreign fishing fleets
226
00:19:26,009 --> 00:19:29,969
has decimated the population
of larger, more valuable fish.
227
00:19:29,970 --> 00:19:34,809
So, Bari has to target smaller
reef fish, like this goat fish.
228
00:19:37,490 --> 00:19:39,648
It means he has to take chances
229
00:19:39,650 --> 00:19:42,410
and dive more often
to feed his family.
230
00:19:51,730 --> 00:19:55,210
Bari's aware of the risks,
but feels he has no choice.
231
00:20:30,690 --> 00:20:33,209
Increasingly, it
can be a tough life,
232
00:20:33,210 --> 00:20:35,769
surviving on the
edge of a wilderness.
233
00:20:38,890 --> 00:20:41,970
I just want to say thank you
so much for your hospitality.
234
00:20:47,210 --> 00:20:48,609
Man hug.
235
00:20:50,890 --> 00:20:52,769
Sweaty man, that's me.
236
00:20:52,769 --> 00:20:55,328
Thank you very much
indeed. Thank you so much.
237
00:20:55,329 --> 00:20:56,689
- Thank you, thank you.
238
00:20:56,690 --> 00:20:58,128
- Thank you. All right.
239
00:20:58,130 --> 00:21:01,730
We will gather our stuff,
and we will head off.
240
00:21:09,329 --> 00:21:10,809
Bye, guys!
241
00:21:16,930 --> 00:21:20,689
Reluctantly, I'm leaving
Bari and Mamma Henni.
242
00:21:20,690 --> 00:21:24,490
I've got hundreds of miles to
travel across the Coral Triangle.
243
00:21:37,930 --> 00:21:42,049
The Bernetta is the cosy home
for all our kit and filming crew.
244
00:21:45,210 --> 00:21:49,930
At the helm is Captain Lindra and
a small crew of Indonesian sailors.
245
00:21:54,289 --> 00:21:56,969
We're travelling
across the Malacca Sea,
246
00:21:56,970 --> 00:21:59,088
towards a small
cluster of islands
247
00:21:59,089 --> 00:22:01,528
off the Indonesian
coast of New Guinea,
248
00:22:01,529 --> 00:22:03,609
an area called Raja Ampat.
249
00:22:04,970 --> 00:22:08,449
It's just about the richest and most
spectacular undersea environment
250
00:22:08,450 --> 00:22:09,848
on Earth.
251
00:22:09,849 --> 00:22:12,529
The bull's-eye at the
heart of the Coral Triangle.
252
00:22:26,609 --> 00:22:29,848
It's not the fastest
boat on the sea,
253
00:22:29,849 --> 00:22:32,569
but that does give me time
to soak up the surroundings.
254
00:22:37,410 --> 00:22:40,648
There's a few birds
out there fishing.
255
00:22:40,650 --> 00:22:42,130
There's some
flying fish as well.
256
00:22:43,809 --> 00:22:45,930
Time passes slowly on the ocean.
257
00:22:47,769 --> 00:22:49,169
He's playing a game.
258
00:22:49,170 --> 00:22:50,450
What's it called?
259
00:22:51,730 --> 00:22:53,730
Look. He's played it a lot!
260
00:22:54,930 --> 00:22:59,009
Level 3,657, I just saw.
261
00:23:21,970 --> 00:23:25,009
It's not long before we spot
evidence of one of the threats
262
00:23:25,009 --> 00:23:26,970
to life in the Coral Triangle.
263
00:23:29,289 --> 00:23:33,368
It's so strange to suddenly
see a fishing boat emerging.
264
00:23:33,369 --> 00:23:36,209
It just appeared
almost from nowhere.
265
00:23:36,210 --> 00:23:38,328
The Coral Triangle
has a fair claim
266
00:23:38,329 --> 00:23:42,169
to be perhaps the richest
eco-system anywhere in our oceans.
267
00:23:42,170 --> 00:23:46,449
But it's still fished by
international industrial trawlers
268
00:23:46,450 --> 00:23:50,888
that take out millions of tons of
bigger fish, like tuna, every year,
269
00:23:50,890 --> 00:23:53,209
and bottom trawlers
that rip up the seabed
270
00:23:53,210 --> 00:23:55,210
for prawns and other shellfish.
271
00:23:57,089 --> 00:23:58,969
But Nesha's taking me
272
00:23:58,970 --> 00:24:02,009
to a place where marine life
is protected like nowhere else.
273
00:24:09,529 --> 00:24:12,049
It's still a long way
across open ocean.
274
00:24:18,410 --> 00:24:21,169
And, even with modern
communications on board the Bernetta,
275
00:24:21,170 --> 00:24:23,888
there are real risks
in being this remote.
276
00:24:30,130 --> 00:24:33,809
It's our third night at sea, and
one of the team is in trouble.
277
00:24:36,089 --> 00:24:37,848
So, we've got a
bit of a problem.
278
00:24:37,849 --> 00:24:39,808
Eric, our director,
279
00:24:39,809 --> 00:24:41,568
has come down ill.
280
00:24:41,569 --> 00:24:43,288
He's not in a great way,
281
00:24:43,289 --> 00:24:45,449
and we're just trying to
work out how far we are
282
00:24:45,450 --> 00:24:47,328
from proper medical help,
283
00:24:47,329 --> 00:24:49,169
and it would seem we are
284
00:24:49,170 --> 00:24:51,088
We're quite a long way.
285
00:24:51,089 --> 00:24:53,288
Eric has a serious fever.
286
00:24:53,289 --> 00:24:55,328
He's had his vaccinations,
287
00:24:55,329 --> 00:24:57,650
but nothing is 100% effective.
288
00:24:58,930 --> 00:25:01,328
Travelling in remote
tropical parts of the planet,
289
00:25:01,329 --> 00:25:04,209
you can pick up anything
from Malaria to Typhoid,
290
00:25:04,210 --> 00:25:05,528
as I know myself.
291
00:25:05,529 --> 00:25:09,128
Are you feeling comfortable, or do
you want another pillow or anything?
292
00:25:09,130 --> 00:25:10,888
- My head feels like an iron.
293
00:25:10,890 --> 00:25:12,250
- Oh, Eric.
294
00:25:17,329 --> 00:25:20,130
I'm just going to put this
on your forehead, all right?
295
00:25:23,730 --> 00:25:26,848
- I'm so sorry, pal. Do you want
a bit more ice and another towel?
296
00:25:26,849 --> 00:25:28,009
- This is fine.
297
00:25:28,009 --> 00:25:30,428
All right, let's We'll just
go outside and confer, OK?
298
00:25:30,451 --> 00:25:31,250
Yeah.
299
00:25:34,130 --> 00:25:37,209
- So, his temperature is 39.5,
300
00:25:37,210 --> 00:25:39,088
which is is not great.
301
00:25:39,089 --> 00:25:42,288
So, now I've got to keep
an eye on him, of course,
302
00:25:42,289 --> 00:25:44,769
and we've also got to
see where the hell are we,
303
00:25:44,769 --> 00:25:47,289
and can we get
him to a hospital?
304
00:25:48,769 --> 00:25:52,249
A temperature of 40 degrees
can be life-threatening.
305
00:25:52,250 --> 00:25:55,769
So, we need to come up with a
plan in case it continues to rise.
306
00:25:58,289 --> 00:26:02,969
- So, we'll be right under
here at 5am tomorrow.
307
00:26:02,970 --> 00:26:04,769
- Right.
308
00:26:04,769 --> 00:26:07,088
- But the nearest airport
is Seranti right here.
309
00:26:07,089 --> 00:26:08,648
- Oh, - So, it's far.
310
00:26:08,650 --> 00:26:10,809
- When I say it's far, it's far.
311
00:26:15,170 --> 00:26:18,169
We need to work out
what we're going to do.
312
00:26:18,170 --> 00:26:21,489
We think that five o'clock
tomorrow morning, we'll be
313
00:26:21,490 --> 00:26:24,409
On our current course, we'll be
314
00:26:24,410 --> 00:26:26,888
two hours from a community
315
00:26:26,890 --> 00:26:28,328
on an island,
316
00:26:28,329 --> 00:26:31,288
but whether they've got
a clinic there is unclear.
317
00:26:31,289 --> 00:26:33,048
We need to dig
out a satellite phone
318
00:26:33,049 --> 00:26:35,888
and start calling
to try and get some
319
00:26:35,890 --> 00:26:37,648
some more information
and some help.
320
00:26:37,650 --> 00:26:40,528
What did he What
did the captain say?
321
00:26:40,529 --> 00:26:42,608
- Medivac is the next thing.
322
00:26:42,609 --> 00:26:44,169
- Helicopter?
- Yeah.
323
00:26:44,170 --> 00:26:47,088
- It'll take hours of
sailing to reach a place
324
00:26:47,089 --> 00:26:49,048
where a chopper can land,
325
00:26:49,049 --> 00:26:51,769
but we head in that direction.
326
00:26:51,769 --> 00:26:54,368
We treat Eric, get
him comfortable,
327
00:26:54,369 --> 00:26:56,609
and hope his raging
fever subsides.
328
00:27:14,930 --> 00:27:17,528
So, a quick update on Eric.
329
00:27:17,529 --> 00:27:19,528
He's doing a lot better.
330
00:27:19,529 --> 00:27:22,169
He's just had some toast,
which is a very good sign,
331
00:27:22,170 --> 00:27:24,849
and we are just going to
leave him to rest and recover.
332
00:27:27,130 --> 00:27:28,849
- Yeah, let's see how you go.
333
00:27:30,529 --> 00:27:32,169
Feel better, Eric.
334
00:27:32,170 --> 00:27:33,609
- Thanks.
335
00:27:34,650 --> 00:27:36,250
- It's a bloody
relief, to be honest.
336
00:27:37,569 --> 00:27:39,209
I mean, if you can imagine,
337
00:27:39,210 --> 00:27:41,489
we're out here -
338
00:27:41,490 --> 00:27:43,088
just have a look around.
339
00:27:43,089 --> 00:27:44,490
There's nothing out here.
340
00:27:47,809 --> 00:27:50,210
Not another boat,
nor another ship.
341
00:27:51,690 --> 00:27:53,690
It looks completely empty.
342
00:27:56,769 --> 00:27:59,128
How far to go now?
343
00:27:59,130 --> 00:28:00,450
- 111.
344
00:28:01,730 --> 00:28:03,769
- 111 miles or kilometres?
345
00:28:03,769 --> 00:28:05,089
- No, 110. Miles.
346
00:28:06,809 --> 00:28:08,888
- With Eric well and
truly on the mend,
347
00:28:08,890 --> 00:28:12,410
we'll press on for a couple more
days towards our next destination.
348
00:28:23,769 --> 00:28:25,250
Land ahoy!
349
00:28:26,569 --> 00:28:28,009
I've always wanted to say that!
350
00:28:31,049 --> 00:28:33,490
We're arriving into Raja Ampat.
351
00:28:34,690 --> 00:28:37,808
This would be a welcome
sight any time, wouldn't it?
352
00:28:37,809 --> 00:28:41,930
Particularly after you've been
on a long journey across the sea.
353
00:28:43,569 --> 00:28:47,089
Our planet can still be
so sublimely beautiful.
354
00:28:48,569 --> 00:28:50,608
Raja Ampat has been described as
355
00:28:50,609 --> 00:28:52,689
one of the last real paradises
356
00:28:52,690 --> 00:28:54,729
left on Earth. Quite a claim,
357
00:28:54,730 --> 00:28:56,569
but possibly justified.
358
00:29:01,130 --> 00:29:05,368
Raja Ampat is home to more
than 2,000 species of fish
359
00:29:05,369 --> 00:29:07,329
and hundreds of corals.
360
00:29:15,329 --> 00:29:17,970
It looks like a welcoming
committee is heading our way.
361
00:29:29,769 --> 00:29:32,130
So, apparently,
there's a patrol coming.
362
00:29:52,170 --> 00:29:54,369
Oh, bloody hell. He's
got an assault rifle.
363
00:30:03,289 --> 00:30:05,489
Do you know what they're doing?
364
00:30:05,490 --> 00:30:08,489
- So, they're checking
on the onboard paperwork.
365
00:30:08,490 --> 00:30:09,268
OK.
366
00:30:09,291 --> 00:30:11,648
That's part of the patrol
around here in Raja Ampat,
367
00:30:11,650 --> 00:30:15,048
to make sure there's, you
know, you're following the rules,
368
00:30:15,049 --> 00:30:18,089
there's no fishing, for
example, in a no-take zone.
369
00:30:21,569 --> 00:30:25,048
- Is it a Government patrol?
Is it a police patrol, or what?
370
00:30:25,049 --> 00:30:27,608
- There is one police,
water police, in there.
371
00:30:27,609 --> 00:30:29,729
They're law enforcers.
372
00:30:29,730 --> 00:30:32,128
- It's more like a conservation patrol.
- Yes.
373
00:30:32,130 --> 00:30:34,888
Conservation patrol,
but it is an MPA.
374
00:30:34,890 --> 00:30:37,169
So - A Marine Protected Area?
375
00:30:37,170 --> 00:30:38,489
- Yes.
376
00:30:38,490 --> 00:30:40,249
- So, they're
definitely good guys.
377
00:30:40,250 --> 00:30:41,769
- Yeah, for sure. We need this.
378
00:30:41,769 --> 00:30:43,608
It's very, very important.
379
00:30:43,609 --> 00:30:48,368
- Marine Ranger Mohid Eniba
combs boats in this part of Raja Ampat,
380
00:30:48,369 --> 00:30:50,490
checking for illegal catches.
381
00:31:02,410 --> 00:31:04,808
I mean, a fishing
boat, like any boat,
382
00:31:04,809 --> 00:31:08,808
has got 1,000 different little
places you can hide something,
383
00:31:08,809 --> 00:31:10,769
hasn't it?
384
00:31:27,690 --> 00:31:30,250
And how did you feel
when you discovered that?
385
00:32:03,170 --> 00:32:07,410
This patrol is part of a revolution
that's happened here in Raja Ampat.
386
00:32:09,490 --> 00:32:13,209
A couple of decades ago, this
area was chockfull of fishing boats.
387
00:32:13,210 --> 00:32:16,049
Fish life was steadily
being wiped out.
388
00:32:18,329 --> 00:32:21,769
But Indonesia decided to
protect Raja Ampat as a treasure,
389
00:32:21,769 --> 00:32:25,289
seizing and sinking hundreds
of illegal fishing boats.
390
00:32:27,329 --> 00:32:29,409
Across thousands
of square miles,
391
00:32:29,410 --> 00:32:32,969
fishing is now heavily
restricted, or banned altogether.
392
00:32:32,970 --> 00:32:36,729
The results have
been spectacular.
393
00:32:36,730 --> 00:32:38,650
A wilderness can be restored.
394
00:32:48,009 --> 00:32:50,089
Just look at that colour.
395
00:32:51,650 --> 00:32:54,528
Raja Ampat is Nesha's world.
396
00:32:54,529 --> 00:32:57,808
This is where she's
spent most of her career
397
00:32:57,809 --> 00:33:00,609
as a scientist,
monitoring and protecting.
398
00:33:09,730 --> 00:33:11,689
Immediately, it's clear.
399
00:33:11,690 --> 00:33:13,809
This is an undersea paradise.
400
00:33:15,289 --> 00:33:17,848
Three-quarters of the
world's coral species
401
00:33:17,849 --> 00:33:19,529
are found in the Coral Triangle.
402
00:33:23,369 --> 00:33:27,529
Within moments, I'm surrounded
by shoals of damsel fish
403
00:33:30,609 --> 00:33:33,170
and great clouds of fusiliers.
404
00:33:36,009 --> 00:33:37,569
That's a trigger fish.
405
00:33:41,009 --> 00:33:45,009
Raja Ampat is at the
heart of the Coral Triangle,
406
00:33:45,009 --> 00:33:47,209
which is like nowhere
else on Earth.
407
00:33:47,210 --> 00:33:51,609
You can see why it's been
described as the Amazon of the seas
408
00:33:52,970 --> 00:33:56,088
and it's a crucial part of
the global ocean system
409
00:33:56,089 --> 00:33:58,369
on which all life depends.
410
00:34:00,450 --> 00:34:03,009
After all, it's
ocean eco-systems
411
00:34:03,009 --> 00:34:05,690
that produce half
the oxygen we breath.
412
00:34:10,049 --> 00:34:13,169
Of all the fish here,
there's one in particular
413
00:34:13,170 --> 00:34:15,089
that's vital for a healthy sea.
414
00:34:17,329 --> 00:34:18,809
The shark.
415
00:34:20,929 --> 00:34:23,688
The smallest sharks
are just six inches long.
416
00:34:23,690 --> 00:34:25,849
The biggest, the
size of a truck.
417
00:34:27,090 --> 00:34:28,530
They still evoke fear
418
00:34:31,969 --> 00:34:33,728
but now we know
nearly all sharks,
419
00:34:33,730 --> 00:34:37,369
including this beautiful
white-tipped reef shark,
420
00:34:37,369 --> 00:34:39,730
are, of course, totally
harmless to humans.
421
00:34:41,409 --> 00:34:43,168
However, as apex predators,
422
00:34:43,170 --> 00:34:45,289
they maintain order and balance
423
00:34:45,289 --> 00:34:47,849
in the entire
underwater eco-system.
424
00:34:54,409 --> 00:34:55,650
Oh, my.
425
00:34:56,690 --> 00:34:58,130
That was
426
00:34:59,329 --> 00:35:03,168
That was completely
breathtaking.
427
00:35:03,170 --> 00:35:07,449
Honestly, I mean, maybe this
is just normal for you being here,
428
00:35:07,449 --> 00:35:09,768
but that was
utterly spectacular.
429
00:35:09,769 --> 00:35:12,849
But it's It's so deceptive.
430
00:35:12,849 --> 00:35:15,009
Just look at the the water.
431
00:35:15,010 --> 00:35:17,528
You have no comprehension
432
00:35:17,530 --> 00:35:20,329
of what is beneath
the surface here.
433
00:35:20,329 --> 00:35:23,128
- I'm still very happy to
see so many different fish.
434
00:35:23,130 --> 00:35:27,728
Every food chain level is there, and
you got to see some sharks as well.
435
00:35:27,730 --> 00:35:30,690
- But globally,
sharks are in trouble.
436
00:35:32,489 --> 00:35:35,009
Overfishing, legal and illegal,
437
00:35:35,010 --> 00:35:37,489
is killing tens of
millions each year.
438
00:35:39,289 --> 00:35:41,128
They're eaten around the planet,
439
00:35:41,130 --> 00:35:42,728
and shark fins are used
440
00:35:42,730 --> 00:35:44,929
in a tasteless soup in
China and elsewhere.
441
00:35:47,170 --> 00:35:50,688
Just a decade ago, many
sharks here were facing extinction.
442
00:35:50,690 --> 00:35:54,849
One species was only
spotted three times in 20 years.
443
00:35:59,769 --> 00:36:02,568
Today, this is a
protected marine reserve,
444
00:36:02,570 --> 00:36:05,769
policed by patrols like the
one that stopped us earlier.
445
00:36:08,329 --> 00:36:12,409
Overall, shark numbers are
now an incredible 25 times higher
446
00:36:12,409 --> 00:36:14,210
than in unprotected areas
447
00:36:15,889 --> 00:36:18,648
and right now, Nesha
and her colleagues
448
00:36:18,650 --> 00:36:21,088
are taking shark conservation
449
00:36:21,090 --> 00:36:22,849
one big step further.
450
00:36:22,849 --> 00:36:24,929
- Are you ready to see the pups?
451
00:36:26,369 --> 00:36:28,048
- I'm ready, yes. I think.
452
00:36:28,050 --> 00:36:29,208
"Pups"?
453
00:36:29,210 --> 00:36:30,929
- So, we've got two here.
454
00:36:30,929 --> 00:36:34,449
This is our first-born, Mali.
455
00:36:38,369 --> 00:36:43,528
- That is a sight of epic
cuteness, quite frankly.
456
00:36:43,530 --> 00:36:46,528
I know that's not a very
scientific thing to think or say, but
457
00:36:46,530 --> 00:36:47,648
Oh! She's
458
00:36:47,650 --> 00:36:50,369
He/she is moving. - She.
- She.
459
00:36:51,769 --> 00:36:53,009
Oh, my goodness.
460
00:36:53,010 --> 00:36:55,329
Hello.
- Oh, she's saying hi to you!
461
00:36:55,329 --> 00:36:56,849
- Hello to you, too!
462
00:36:58,650 --> 00:36:59,849
- Hey, Mali.
463
00:37:02,050 --> 00:37:05,208
- She doesn't look
really like a shark to me.
464
00:37:05,210 --> 00:37:07,208
She looks At the
front like a cuddly toy,
465
00:37:07,210 --> 00:37:08,889
and then
466
00:37:10,730 --> 00:37:11,769
strange wings.
467
00:37:13,210 --> 00:37:16,690
The tail and the rest
of her is a bit sharky
468
00:37:17,969 --> 00:37:19,648
but she just looks so cute.
469
00:37:19,650 --> 00:37:22,809
- Mali is a zebra shark,
470
00:37:22,809 --> 00:37:25,329
or better known as
Indo-Pacific zebra shark.
471
00:37:25,329 --> 00:37:26,608
- Right.
472
00:37:26,610 --> 00:37:28,528
- In the last 15
years of monitoring,
473
00:37:28,530 --> 00:37:31,128
we've only seen about
less than 20 sights
474
00:37:31,130 --> 00:37:34,969
and that's very little comparing
to how much the other sharks
475
00:37:34,969 --> 00:37:36,648
like blacktip, grey reef,
476
00:37:36,650 --> 00:37:41,009
whitetip, they've all rebounded
and have, like, insane numbers.
477
00:37:41,010 --> 00:37:44,449
But these guys unfortunately
haven't done so well.
478
00:37:44,449 --> 00:37:46,969
- So, where did she come from?
479
00:37:46,969 --> 00:37:49,409
- So, Mali comes
from Sea Life Sydney.
480
00:37:49,409 --> 00:37:53,048
Over there, the second one,
she actually come from Las Vegas.
481
00:37:53,050 --> 00:37:54,489
- No!
- Yes.
482
00:37:54,489 --> 00:37:58,449
The zebra shark will actually lay
eggs, which are known to be hardy
483
00:37:58,449 --> 00:38:01,128
and can survive
trans-pacific shipment,
484
00:38:01,130 --> 00:38:04,489
and obviously it's much
easier to ship eggs than pups.
485
00:38:04,489 --> 00:38:09,489
These two will be released in
about two and a half months.
486
00:38:10,849 --> 00:38:16,208
She is part of this whole
initiative of re-sharking the world.
487
00:38:16,210 --> 00:38:17,648
- "Re-sharking"?
488
00:38:17,650 --> 00:38:21,208
That is not a phrase
I've heard before.
489
00:38:21,210 --> 00:38:25,289
- ReShark is an initiative
to repopulate the oceans
490
00:38:25,289 --> 00:38:26,648
with sharks,
491
00:38:26,650 --> 00:38:29,648
and we're working with public
aquariums all over the world
492
00:38:29,650 --> 00:38:33,688
who have built the
experience of animal care
493
00:38:33,690 --> 00:38:35,648
and also breeding them,
494
00:38:35,650 --> 00:38:39,248
especially those species
that need a little bit of help
495
00:38:39,250 --> 00:38:41,889
and haven't done
very well in the wild.
496
00:38:41,889 --> 00:38:43,168
- Wow.
497
00:38:43,170 --> 00:38:47,690
I haven't heard
that anywhere, ever.
498
00:38:50,010 --> 00:38:53,369
I'm here at the start
of something huge.
499
00:38:53,369 --> 00:38:55,248
This is a global first.
500
00:38:55,250 --> 00:38:58,369
ReShark has massive ambitions.
501
00:38:58,369 --> 00:39:01,768
It's a worldwide collaboration
between governments,
502
00:39:01,769 --> 00:39:05,090
universities, aquariums
and conservation groups.
503
00:39:07,489 --> 00:39:10,608
So, we're going to go and
collect some snails and clams
504
00:39:10,610 --> 00:39:12,849
for the sharks.
505
00:39:13,929 --> 00:39:15,688
- Right here, a snail.
506
00:39:15,690 --> 00:39:17,409
One of their
favourite, actually.
507
00:39:17,409 --> 00:39:18,728
- Oh, they're tiny.
508
00:39:18,730 --> 00:39:21,088
- They are tiny,
but they're still pups.
509
00:39:21,090 --> 00:39:24,929
- The aim is to breed and
reintroduce hundreds of harmless,
510
00:39:24,929 --> 00:39:26,929
helpful sharks,
like little Mali here,
511
00:39:26,929 --> 00:39:29,648
and possibly re-shark
other world sites,
512
00:39:29,650 --> 00:39:32,010
perhaps even off
the coast of Wales.
513
00:39:33,329 --> 00:39:34,730
There it goes.
514
00:39:39,489 --> 00:39:41,208
Tail's wagging, almost!
515
00:39:41,210 --> 00:39:42,929
- Yeah, she's amazing.
516
00:39:42,929 --> 00:39:46,608
She's the I would say, like,
the best species to work with.
517
00:39:46,610 --> 00:39:48,208
It's hard not to fall in love.
518
00:39:48,210 --> 00:39:51,329
- But to make a
project like this work,
519
00:39:51,329 --> 00:39:54,090
the local community
needs to be involved as well.
520
00:39:55,969 --> 00:39:59,449
The answer here is eco-tourism.
521
00:39:59,449 --> 00:40:02,329
This marine reserve is
partly set up and funded
522
00:40:02,329 --> 00:40:03,568
by a diving resort,
523
00:40:03,570 --> 00:40:08,329
which also provides jobs
and careers for local people,
524
00:40:08,329 --> 00:40:11,929
so they don't need to hunt for
sharks to put food on their table.
525
00:40:13,289 --> 00:40:15,168
It's not the full answer, is it?
526
00:40:15,170 --> 00:40:21,369
We can't just keep decimating
shark numbers around the planet,
527
00:40:21,369 --> 00:40:23,929
and think that Nesha
is going to be able to put
528
00:40:23,929 --> 00:40:26,128
all of that life
back into the seas.
529
00:40:26,130 --> 00:40:28,929
- We need to turn off
the tap, first and foremost.
530
00:40:28,929 --> 00:40:32,929
But, of course, we can't
just be blanketing the oceans
531
00:40:32,929 --> 00:40:35,369
with no-take zones,
without alternative livelihoods
532
00:40:35,369 --> 00:40:37,768
for the people who actually
depend on the ocean.
533
00:40:37,769 --> 00:40:42,168
So, the fact that zebra
shark is a highly sought after
534
00:40:42,170 --> 00:40:45,208
species for
snorkelers and divers,
535
00:40:45,210 --> 00:40:47,208
really is a main driver
536
00:40:47,210 --> 00:40:51,369
why this project is so loved and
embraced by the local community
537
00:40:51,369 --> 00:40:54,128
and government,
because it is part of the
538
00:40:54,130 --> 00:40:57,289
alternative livelihood,
instead of fishing them out.
539
00:41:08,210 --> 00:41:10,489
- It's time to leave Raja Ampat
540
00:41:10,489 --> 00:41:14,650
and set off on the last stage of my
journey across the Coral Triangle.
541
00:41:17,050 --> 00:41:19,929
It's also time to say
goodbye to Nesha.
542
00:41:19,929 --> 00:41:21,648
Nesha!
543
00:41:21,650 --> 00:41:23,130
Farewell.
544
00:41:24,329 --> 00:41:26,568
- Have a great trip.
- Travel safe. - Thank you.
545
00:41:26,570 --> 00:41:29,248
- Thank you so much
for all you've done,
546
00:41:29,250 --> 00:41:31,489
and all you've shown us!
547
00:41:31,489 --> 00:41:33,168
- It's been a pleasure.
548
00:41:33,170 --> 00:41:34,728
- Good luck, OK?
549
00:41:34,730 --> 00:41:36,210
- Good luck to you!
550
00:41:47,409 --> 00:41:50,329
- So, we're heading
out again, back to sea,
551
00:41:50,329 --> 00:41:54,088
into a slightly wilder,
choppier bit of the ocean.
552
00:41:54,090 --> 00:41:57,969
These are not uncharted
waters, of course not,
553
00:41:57,969 --> 00:41:59,688
but they are for this team.
554
00:41:59,690 --> 00:42:02,048
This boat has never been there,
555
00:42:02,050 --> 00:42:04,969
and we're going to look for
the great giant of our oceans,
556
00:42:04,969 --> 00:42:07,768
the largest fish in the sea.
557
00:42:07,769 --> 00:42:11,849
We're on a hunt,
searching for whale sharks.
558
00:42:13,650 --> 00:42:16,369
My voyage in search
of these giant fish
559
00:42:16,369 --> 00:42:20,329
will take me around the Indonesian
coast of the island of New Guinea.
560
00:42:21,849 --> 00:42:24,128
Three days of sailing
should hopefully get me
561
00:42:24,130 --> 00:42:25,409
to my final destination -
562
00:42:25,409 --> 00:42:29,449
a remote area of New Guinea
called Cenderawasih Bay.
563
00:42:36,929 --> 00:42:40,728
I am ludicrously
excited at the thought
564
00:42:40,730 --> 00:42:43,650
we might we might
see whale sharks.
565
00:42:44,849 --> 00:42:49,009
Despite their size, whale
sharks have always been elusive.
566
00:42:49,010 --> 00:42:52,648
The legendary Jacques
Cousteau only saw two
567
00:42:52,650 --> 00:42:54,728
in decades of exploring the sea,
568
00:42:54,730 --> 00:42:56,809
and, now, they're even rarer.
569
00:42:56,809 --> 00:43:00,809
The global population of whale
sharks has halved in recent
570
00:43:00,809 --> 00:43:05,170
decades mainly because,
obscenely, they're fished for their fins.
571
00:43:08,210 --> 00:43:10,449
To up our chances
of spotting them,
572
00:43:10,449 --> 00:43:14,449
one of the world's top whale shark
experts has agreed to come aboard.
573
00:43:17,730 --> 00:43:20,568
Abam Sianipar is one
of the few scientists
574
00:43:20,570 --> 00:43:23,730
who have conducted
research in Cenderawasih Bay.
575
00:43:26,010 --> 00:43:27,688
We're heading towards the bay.
576
00:43:27,690 --> 00:43:30,688
We're heading towards
this hot spot, really, isn't it?
577
00:43:30,690 --> 00:43:32,608
- Yep.
- It's a bio-diversity hot spot
578
00:43:32,610 --> 00:43:36,568
- Yup.
- of planetary significance.
579
00:43:36,570 --> 00:43:41,369
- So, some fish scientists
might also consider this place
580
00:43:41,369 --> 00:43:44,489
as a cauldron of evolution
for marine biodiversity
581
00:43:44,489 --> 00:43:47,889
because, you know,
these areas are so remote
582
00:43:47,889 --> 00:43:51,608
there's very little research
happening around here.
583
00:43:51,610 --> 00:43:57,048
And this area seems to produce
more and more new species of fish
584
00:43:57,050 --> 00:43:59,409
in the year that
we studied them.
585
00:43:59,409 --> 00:44:03,648
So, again, yes, it is a
special place for whale sharks,
586
00:44:03,650 --> 00:44:06,889
but for marine biodiversity,
it's also a very exciting place.
587
00:44:11,889 --> 00:44:13,809
- But first we have to get there
588
00:44:15,250 --> 00:44:18,409
and that means back into the
daily rhythm of life on the boat.
589
00:44:31,369 --> 00:44:35,570
It wouldn't really be an expedition
if anything went entirely to plan.
590
00:44:58,369 --> 00:45:00,329
It's going to be pretty tricky
591
00:45:00,329 --> 00:45:02,969
spotting whale
sharks in this weather.
592
00:45:05,769 --> 00:45:10,248
We're making pretty slow progress
now as well, there's a bit of wind.
593
00:45:10,250 --> 00:45:13,889
I'm just not sure we'll make it
to the area we wanted to get to.
594
00:45:36,329 --> 00:45:38,449
But eventually, the
weather picks up.
595
00:45:40,929 --> 00:45:43,128
A few days more pottering along
596
00:45:43,130 --> 00:45:46,768
and we finally make it to the
edge of Cenderawasih Bay.
597
00:45:46,769 --> 00:45:49,568
Within the vastness
of the Coral Triangle,
598
00:45:49,570 --> 00:45:53,568
this is another huge protected
Indonesian national park.
599
00:45:53,570 --> 00:45:56,690
The bay is 200 miles across
600
00:45:58,730 --> 00:46:02,329
and here is our best chance
of seeing whale sharks.
601
00:46:03,929 --> 00:46:06,329
- No fins, no fins.
602
00:46:06,329 --> 00:46:07,768
- Oh.
603
00:46:07,769 --> 00:46:11,168
- When they travel, they don't
always stay on the surface.
604
00:46:11,170 --> 00:46:12,528
From our last study,
605
00:46:12,530 --> 00:46:15,208
one of the whale sharks
dived up to 1,000 metres
606
00:46:15,210 --> 00:46:16,889
inside of the bay,
607
00:46:16,889 --> 00:46:19,929
and from the - A kilometre down?
608
00:46:19,929 --> 00:46:23,088
- Yeah. - In the bay?
- In the bay. - Wow!
609
00:46:23,090 --> 00:46:26,208
- And then that's kind of like
also one of the biggest why,
610
00:46:26,210 --> 00:46:28,809
in kind of, like, the
whale shark communities,
611
00:46:28,809 --> 00:46:32,088
why this, you know,
animal does this dive,
612
00:46:32,090 --> 00:46:34,048
what's down there.
613
00:46:34,050 --> 00:46:38,009
To certain depths people might
argue there might be food there.
614
00:46:38,010 --> 00:46:42,690
But when you go close
to 1,000, and even beyond
615
00:46:44,010 --> 00:46:45,568
there's basically nothing there.
616
00:46:45,570 --> 00:46:48,528
- Is there any
creature on this planet
617
00:46:48,530 --> 00:46:51,449
of such comparable size
618
00:46:51,449 --> 00:46:56,168
about which we know so
little as the whale shark?
619
00:46:56,170 --> 00:46:59,208
- It's still one of the
biggest mysteries.
620
00:46:59,210 --> 00:47:02,009
- Whale sharks can
be 18 metres long,
621
00:47:02,010 --> 00:47:04,329
and weigh up to 30 tonnes.
622
00:47:04,329 --> 00:47:08,048
They migrate thousands
of miles across the seas,
623
00:47:08,050 --> 00:47:10,289
but we don't really know why.
624
00:47:10,289 --> 00:47:14,690
Nobody really knows where they
breed or where their babies are born.
625
00:47:16,289 --> 00:47:20,648
We do know they can
live to 100 or 150 years old.
626
00:47:20,650 --> 00:47:24,048
That means there could
be whale sharks swimming
627
00:47:24,050 --> 00:47:26,168
Earth's oceans right now
628
00:47:26,170 --> 00:47:28,929
that were born before
the invention of light bulbs!
629
00:47:30,369 --> 00:47:33,009
To try and solve some of the
many mysteries about them,
630
00:47:33,010 --> 00:47:36,248
Abam and his colleagues have
set up a monitoring programme
631
00:47:36,250 --> 00:47:40,210
to photograph and track the
whale sharks of Cenderawasih Bay.
632
00:47:41,650 --> 00:47:44,528
Thank goodness
Abam knows one place
633
00:47:44,530 --> 00:47:47,170
where we have a really
good chance of finding them.
634
00:47:50,530 --> 00:47:52,728
What on earth is that structure?
635
00:47:52,730 --> 00:47:54,369
- That is what
we call a "bagan".
636
00:47:54,369 --> 00:47:56,208
- A bagan?
637
00:47:56,210 --> 00:47:57,929
- A bagan.
638
00:47:57,929 --> 00:48:01,489
So, a bagan is a
lift-net fishing platform
639
00:48:01,489 --> 00:48:04,969
that the people in the
village have developed to
640
00:48:04,969 --> 00:48:08,009
specifically fish for
bait fish, and also small
641
00:48:08,010 --> 00:48:10,929
Other small fish during the
night with the help of lights.
642
00:48:10,929 --> 00:48:15,009
- So, how come they're here,
inside such a protected area?
643
00:48:15,010 --> 00:48:17,568
- These fishermen
have got a special permit,
644
00:48:17,570 --> 00:48:20,329
both from the national
park but also from the
645
00:48:20,329 --> 00:48:23,849
the local people, which is the
custodian of the of the areas.
646
00:48:23,849 --> 00:48:26,688
- They're allowed to fish here
because this is a more traditional
647
00:48:26,690 --> 00:48:28,528
form of fishing -
648
00:48:28,530 --> 00:48:31,449
it's not dragging
an industrial size net
649
00:48:31,449 --> 00:48:34,449
- No. - through the entire bay.
- Exactly.
650
00:48:34,449 --> 00:48:37,409
There's some fins just
popping up to the surface there.
651
00:48:37,409 --> 00:48:39,809
- You saw something?
- Just here.
652
00:48:41,289 --> 00:48:43,128
- Oh, my goodness.
653
00:48:43,130 --> 00:48:45,128
It can't possibly be!
654
00:48:45,130 --> 00:48:47,128
Are you serious?
655
00:48:47,130 --> 00:48:49,067
I think - There's one
waiting for you here?
656
00:48:49,090 --> 00:48:49,728
Yeah.
657
00:48:49,730 --> 00:48:51,009
- No way!
658
00:48:51,010 --> 00:48:53,489
There's a whale
shark here already!
659
00:49:00,449 --> 00:49:01,528
Oh!
660
00:49:01,530 --> 00:49:02,849
- Hello, hello!
661
00:49:06,570 --> 00:49:09,208
- It's the size of a bus!
662
00:49:09,210 --> 00:49:10,728
- Yup.
663
00:49:10,730 --> 00:49:13,409
- This is like a time traveller,
664
00:49:13,409 --> 00:49:15,730
or something from
another planet.
665
00:49:19,289 --> 00:49:24,289
I've never been so close to anything
remotely of this size in the ocean.
666
00:49:26,610 --> 00:49:29,449
It's utterly It's
just breathtaking.
667
00:49:29,449 --> 00:49:30,889
- They are quite amazing.
668
00:49:32,170 --> 00:49:35,168
One thing that always
captivates me is also how
669
00:49:35,170 --> 00:49:36,849
how gently they move,
670
00:49:36,849 --> 00:49:39,449
how graceful they
manoeuvre their bodies,
671
00:49:39,449 --> 00:49:41,969
like doing a ballet under water.
672
00:50:00,650 --> 00:50:02,489
- I can't quite believe this.
673
00:50:05,250 --> 00:50:08,010
I didn't think we would
actually see them
674
00:50:09,610 --> 00:50:12,489
let alone right underneath us.
675
00:50:14,170 --> 00:50:16,489
What a staggering creature.
676
00:50:17,929 --> 00:50:20,929
- Even the biggest
one that we've seen,
677
00:50:20,929 --> 00:50:24,809
I think 7-7.5 metres in length
678
00:50:24,809 --> 00:50:26,108
Mm-hm.
679
00:50:26,132 --> 00:50:30,048
and we still consider them
as a non-adult individual.
680
00:50:30,050 --> 00:50:31,688
So, probably juveniles,
681
00:50:31,690 --> 00:50:35,568
and they use some areas
like Cenderawasih Bay
682
00:50:35,570 --> 00:50:39,568
as a nursery for them to eat
as much as they can - Right.
683
00:50:39,570 --> 00:50:41,128
- to grow as fast as they can,
684
00:50:41,130 --> 00:50:44,449
and then potentially leaving
the bay when they get bigger.
685
00:50:46,570 --> 00:50:48,889
- Whale sharks
come to this platform
686
00:50:48,889 --> 00:50:51,849
because local fishermen
here share their catch.
687
00:50:53,409 --> 00:50:56,248
Because of that, this is one
of the only places on the planet
688
00:50:56,250 --> 00:51:00,010
where scientists can monitor
large numbers of whale sharks.
689
00:51:01,250 --> 00:51:04,128
Abam and his colleagues
have put satellite tags
690
00:51:04,130 --> 00:51:05,969
on dozens of these giants.
691
00:51:05,969 --> 00:51:10,168
They're running the largest whale
shark tagging project in the world.
692
00:51:10,170 --> 00:51:14,208
They also take photos to
identify and record sharks.
693
00:51:14,210 --> 00:51:16,969
They each have a
unique pattern of spots.
694
00:51:16,969 --> 00:51:18,489
This is astonishing.
695
00:51:18,489 --> 00:51:21,048
I know you need
to do some science,
696
00:51:21,050 --> 00:51:25,449
rather than me just getting a
lump in my throat looking at them.
697
00:51:25,449 --> 00:51:27,528
What do you want to do?
698
00:51:27,530 --> 00:51:29,250
- I want to get in
the water with them.
699
00:51:30,650 --> 00:51:31,849
- Oh, my God!
700
00:51:33,769 --> 00:51:35,449
Oh, my God!
701
00:51:35,449 --> 00:51:38,048
And by any chance, do you
need somebody to, you know,
702
00:51:38,050 --> 00:51:41,128
hold your camera?
- Sure, of course!
703
00:51:41,130 --> 00:51:42,489
- Well, I'm game.
704
00:51:42,489 --> 00:51:44,849
Let's get in the water.
- Let's do it.
705
00:51:55,730 --> 00:51:59,489
I think we try to avoid
them as much as we can.
706
00:51:59,489 --> 00:52:02,568
I try to maintain a distance,
like, three metres - OK.
707
00:52:02,570 --> 00:52:04,728
- But of course, they
are swimming around.
708
00:52:04,730 --> 00:52:08,329
Sometimes they creep up on your
back, we can't do anything about it.
709
00:52:08,329 --> 00:52:10,289
But we'll just try our best.
710
00:52:11,329 --> 00:52:13,650
Three, two, one
711
00:52:52,769 --> 00:52:56,208
- Whale sharks aren't hunters
like some of their shark cousins.
712
00:52:56,210 --> 00:52:58,009
They're not interested in me.
713
00:52:58,010 --> 00:53:00,449
They're more like
vacuum cleaners,
714
00:53:00,449 --> 00:53:03,929
filter feeding and sieving
plankton and small fish
715
00:53:03,929 --> 00:53:06,369
through their huge mouths.
716
00:53:06,369 --> 00:53:08,128
Their teeth are tiny,
717
00:53:08,130 --> 00:53:11,409
and their throats can be
just the width of a 10p piece.
718
00:53:16,329 --> 00:53:19,969
The visibility around the
platform isn't amazing,
719
00:53:19,969 --> 00:53:23,449
so you don't see them
coming from far off -
720
00:53:23,449 --> 00:53:27,409
they just emerge
almost out of the gloom,
721
00:53:27,409 --> 00:53:30,208
and then suddenly this enormous,
722
00:53:30,210 --> 00:53:32,568
ancient, prehistoric,
723
00:53:32,570 --> 00:53:35,728
present-day, other
worldly alien creature
724
00:53:35,730 --> 00:53:37,690
is coming right at you
725
00:53:39,889 --> 00:53:42,130
and I absolutely bloody love it.
726
00:53:52,730 --> 00:53:57,010
Abam's work is shedding new
light on the life of the whale shark.
727
00:53:58,849 --> 00:54:00,728
Here in Cenderawasih Bay,
728
00:54:00,730 --> 00:54:04,648
there's thought to be a
population of around 130 of them,
729
00:54:04,650 --> 00:54:06,289
mostly juveniles.
730
00:54:08,329 --> 00:54:11,728
Some live in the bay,
while others come and go.
731
00:54:11,730 --> 00:54:16,648
For some unknown reason,
all the sharks here are males.
732
00:54:16,650 --> 00:54:19,889
Where the females
go is another mystery.
733
00:54:24,489 --> 00:54:27,929
It's early days, but the project
here is one of our best chances
734
00:54:27,929 --> 00:54:30,969
of finding out more about
these magnificent creatures
735
00:54:30,969 --> 00:54:32,449
and protecting them.
736
00:54:39,369 --> 00:54:41,168
And it's all made possible
737
00:54:41,170 --> 00:54:43,889
because of the local
Indonesian fishermen
738
00:54:43,889 --> 00:54:46,090
who have, for
years, fed the sharks.
739
00:54:48,210 --> 00:54:51,688
Nerdin has fished on this
bagan since he was a boy.
740
00:54:51,690 --> 00:54:54,530
What do the whale
sharks mean to you?
741
00:55:30,289 --> 00:55:33,248
You do feed them quite
a lot of fish, don't you?
742
00:55:33,250 --> 00:55:35,170
Why do you give them so much?
743
00:55:59,170 --> 00:56:03,208
I've reached the end of my
voyage across the Coral Triangle.
744
00:56:03,210 --> 00:56:05,730
This miraculous
corner of our world.
745
00:56:07,130 --> 00:56:09,568
I've learnt how this
little-known wilderness
746
00:56:09,570 --> 00:56:12,170
is vital to life in
the wider ocean
747
00:56:13,889 --> 00:56:15,608
and I've seen on this journey
748
00:56:15,610 --> 00:56:19,010
how its crucial local people
are involved in preserving it.
749
00:56:20,570 --> 00:56:24,568
Nerdin and the fishermen
here are an inspiring example
750
00:56:24,570 --> 00:56:27,489
of how people can
live alongside nature,
751
00:56:27,489 --> 00:56:30,730
cherishing it without
over-exploiting it.
752
00:56:34,130 --> 00:56:35,489
How do you feel?
753
00:56:35,489 --> 00:56:37,929
I saw you smiling as
you were feeding them.
754
00:56:37,929 --> 00:56:41,929
As you're putting food
almost into the mouths
755
00:56:41,929 --> 00:56:45,130
of these enormous creatures.
756
00:57:00,210 --> 00:57:04,449
What an amazing place to
end this part of the journey,
757
00:57:04,449 --> 00:57:07,088
with Nurdin on
his fishing platform
758
00:57:07,090 --> 00:57:10,648
giving away great big boxes
of his fish to the whale sharks!
759
00:57:10,650 --> 00:57:12,608
I absolutely love it.
760
00:57:14,329 --> 00:57:15,648
Bloody brilliant.
761
00:57:15,650 --> 00:57:17,250
You really are.
762
00:57:21,090 --> 00:57:22,648
Next time
763
00:57:24,409 --> 00:57:27,570
There are lions
going past my tent!
764
00:57:30,090 --> 00:57:32,769
I'm crossing one of
the world's great deserts
765
00:57:35,489 --> 00:57:39,128
on an epic hunt with the
legendary trackers of the Kalahari.
766
00:57:39,130 --> 00:57:40,730
Man, this is intense.
767
00:57:42,809 --> 00:57:43,889
Coo!
- Coo!
59865
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