All language subtitles for Cristobal.Balenciaga.S01E05.720p.WEB.h264-EDITH 5

"Balenciaga is an artist. Just as you ask
Picasso what inspires a painting,

you can ask the man who turned
clothing into an art form

how he came up with a collar."
Prudence Glynn

This series is inspired by the thirty
years Cristóbal Balenciaga spent in Paris,

from his beginnings
to becoming the king of haute couture.

IN THE PREVIOUS EPISODE

I pay a fortune, and he is not coming?

Mr. Balenciaga never make an appearance.

Nicolás suggested
adding more shareholders.

I thought you might want to.

Seventh Avenue was full

of counterfeit Dior stores
of terrible quality.

Publishing sketches
fuels these fraudulent copies.

We have to stop the fashion magazines.

I'm Hubert de Givenchy.

I'm thinking of launching
a line of prêt-à-porter.

Instead of being copied, I'll copy myself.

Cristóbal gave me as a gift
a portrait of me by Cassandre.

We would delay
press shows for a month.

How could you make it without me?

- You're playing with my money!
- Then I'll give it to you!

I'm sorry it's ending like this.

Goodbye, Cristóbal.

I want to create a fabric.
A fabric that's only for me.

That I can control.

There he is. Look.

Right, Cristóbal?

Did the kid really make this?

You have no idea. He's so talented.

- Look at that.
- Unbelievable.

He loves dresses.

He spent the whole summer
inside my dressing room.

His mother fixes my dresses, and he helps.

One day he asked permission
to copy one of my dresses,

and just look at it. What do you think?

It's amazing.

- Do you like it, Cristóbal?
- Yes.

I like it too, thank you.

- Shall we go?
- Let's go.

- And it won't be fitted?
- No more fitting.

It all rests on the shoulders.

And it has these weights, here...

and here.

And the weight of the bow

in the front helps balance the dress.

Taiga,
make the dress move as you walk.

Make it dance.

- That's it.
- Dior is dead.

A heart attack.

And Dior,
the biggest competitor, was gone.

YACHT CLUB
SAN SEBASTIÁN, 1971

I never took it as competition.

But a lot of people did, apparently.

But you can't deny that with Dior gone,

you became the absolute king.

If there were any doubts left,

the international press crowned you
as the Grand Master of High Fashion.

That's exaggerating.

It's what they wrote
and said. You can't deny it.

What I can say is
that my partner Nicolás was gone,

and no one could alter my craft anymore.

Actually,
that was the only time in my life

where I did what I wanted,
with no one to limit me.

Like this, Tom.

Bring out the profile and the fall,
from the top to the tail.

We took our own photos,

and that was what the press could publish.

I decided what and how.

Yes, come here, quick.

Over here.

Over here.

And suddenly, finally,

the perfect fabric for my designs.

Leave it here, please.

Very well, thank you.

Did you know it has a name?

"Gazar."

The silk threads have been twisted twice.

It's malleable and can add volume
without needing more weight.

Can you imagine the happiness you feel

when you own not only the design,
but the fabric as well?

With the Gazar, it felt as if the dress
was completely mine.

It was a sweet moment,

I won't deny it.

It's not easy.

You always have to compromise
here and there.

And, suddenly, everything fits.

And flows like it should.

It happens very few times in life.

That's when it happened to me.

What it takes to get there...

and how quickly it falls from your grasp.

CRISTÓBAL'S HOME
MADRID, SEPTEMBER 1960

Eighty-three.

Eighty-six.

Turn around, please.

Thirty-nine.

Forty-six.

Thirty-six. Slowly. Like that, thank you.

- Sixty-two,
- Six, two.

- A pleasure.
- Yes, thank you.

Now I need to see you walk,

just a few steps, no more...

Mm-hmm.

Very well.

Come back.

Come here.

If you could stand
in front of the mirror, right in front.

Please.

Mm-hmm.

You saw that, didn't you?

Well...

Let's see what we can do, right?

All my clients have something
they don't like.

My job is to make it unnoticeable.

Don't worry.

You have a lot of work to do,

because I look more
like Quasimodo everyday.

Don't laugh, please.

I've always felt ashamed of my body.

Just look at it, it's all wrong.

The hip,
the shoulder, the back, all wrong.

Calm down, you'll look beautiful.

If you saw me naked...

There's no need.

Go into the bathroom
and weigh yourself there, please.

A hundred and twenty-five.

I'll send you this exact scale.

You mustn't weigh yourself
with any other scale.

And from now on, take care
not to gain or lose a single pound.

Some brides go crazy with the weight loss.

I'll leave you alone
so you can get dressed.

Oh! There you are.

Fabiola, we were talking
about your great-grandmother.

Did you know that the first dress I made

was for the Marchioness of Casa Torres?

- And he was only 11.
- I know, I know.

We always talked about that dress at home.

Sometimes I think about
what my life would be

if your family didn't vacation in Getaria

and my mother hadn't been
the one to fix your dresses.

As people say,
the Lord's ways are inscrutable.

That's what life is.

Fifty years after making my first dress
for your great-grandmother,

I'm now dressing you on the day
that you are crowned Queen of Belgium.

It's an honor to have
your talent for the wedding.

I'm very thankful
that you accepted our request.

It's me who's thankful.

- Well, let's go.
- Okay...

One moment.

It doesn't look like there's anyone.

You can leave now.

You don't know what it's been like.

They follow her everywhere.

We place our trust
in Maison Balenciaga's discretion.

We'd like to keep the dress
a secret until the last minute.

Of course.

I don't know if we can make dresses,
but we have a talent for discretion.

Let's go. Goodbye.

THIS WEEK

There will be no habit for King Baudouin.

At Ciergnon Castle,
the king has introduced his fiancée,

Lady Fabiola of Mora and Aragón,

here with her mother
and the Princess of Réthy.

The unexpected news
has brought joy to Belgian hearts,

who missed...

BALENCIAGA'S HOUSE
PARIS, OCTOBER 1960

A longer tail. Longer, don't be afraid.

What do you think, Fernando?

It's okay.

You think it's old-fashioned, right?

Not at all.

Maybe it looks like Farah Diba's dress?

Don't say that, Fernando.

I thought for sure I was
making something more unique.

It's not my favorite
amongst your wedding dresses.

- But it's okay.
- Unfortunately, I can't settle for okay.

Have you heard all the commotion in Spain?

The wedding will be broadcast.
Everyone will watch it.

I have to think about it.

- Grab all this for me, please.
- Okay.

Are you okay?

Yes.

But I already told him about Farah Diba.

And he didn't listen.

Dior's downward spiral is confirmed.

Saint Laurent's latest creations
aren't landing well,

and he's been called
to mandatory military service.

Boussac has replaced him with Marc Bohan.

My God.

If Christian saw this...

In any case, Maison Balenciaga
is the most profitable high fashion house.

The numbers are reasonably good.

But...?

There's always a "but."

It's true that we have seen
a drop in sales.

This isn't a just our problem,
it's affecting all of high fashion.

We need to renew ourselves somehow.

Our clients' daughters aren't coming here.

They'd rather dress in other ways.

What do you mean "other ways"?

Prêt-à-porter?

That's what Pierre Cardin did.

Pierre Cardin was kicked out
of the syndicate.

So were you, and now you care?

Predetermined sizing,

chain manufacturing...

At home, we always said to each their own.

I don't know how to make prêt-à-porter.

And even if I knew, I'm 65 years old.

I'm too old for these changes.

It's better to focus on what we know.

Excuse me.

How have your sales
been these past few months?

Your Chanel No. 5 is going well, right?

Without the perfume,
I would have closed shop long ago.

Why do you ask?

Tell me.

You're not considering
prêt-à-porter, right?

Me? No.

My partners have suggested it.

But I don't see it.

Prêt-à-porter has no respect
for the individuality of the body.

- Ha!
- What?

It's not the individuality
of the body you care about.

It's your individuality.

- I don't understand.
- All of us

are used to delegating,
letting others do, but you...

you need to control everything.

You teach your tailors to place the pins,

your seamstresses to sew,
and your models to walk.

They're all extensions of you.

You're part of every dress you make.

What would you do
if you made prêt-à-porter?

You're a king.

Listen, you're a king.

You're fit to dress queens.

By the way...

I'm sure that hick...

...who will become
Queen of Belgium has chosen you.

I don't know what you're talking about.

Liar.

I don't believe you.

I'm jealous of you.
I've never done a royal wedding.

- I loved it.
- Excuse me.

- Are you Coco Chanel?
- Yes.

How exciting! I love your dresses.

May I have your autograph?

- Your name?
- Michelle.

- You're beautiful.
- Thank you. You're so elegant.

- Thank you.
- Do you recognize him?

No, should I?

No, he's my brother.

Nice to meet you.

- Thank you, Miss Chanel.
- Goodbye, madam.

When will you stop
being so mysterious?

How about a photo shoot together?

You mean photos for ourselves?

- Or for the press?
- For Women's Wear Daily.

I've accepted an interview
with John Fairchild.

I'm sorry, but no.

I told Fairchild you'd do it.
You have to do it for me.

You can't leave me stranded.

Coco, you know I'd do anything for you.

But don't ask me this.

Then don't say you'd do anything!

If Givenchy asked you, you'd do it.

Huh?

Coco, no.

I can't believe it,
after everything I've done for you.

I've done lots for you too.

I've always defended you.

Tell that to my car.

Don't get upset, come on.

- Cristóbal.
- Huh?

- Are you awake?
- Yes.

How was your dinner?

Good.

What did you do?

I went out for a walk.

On your own?

Yes, you know I don't get lost.

Did you have fun?

Yes.

Shall I go to my room?

Yes.

We should leave early tomorrow.

- Sleep well.
- Sleep well.

At the Barajas Airport,

the press and a crowd of onlookers
wait patiently for Lady Fabiola.

On her arrival,

we see, again, the show
of support and affection.

Fabiola greets the public,
and the excitement grows

as she smiles thankfully
at this welcoming public enthusiasm.

Leaving the airport,

a retinue awaits
to accompany Lady Fabiola...

Lady Fabiola will happily work

with a famous Spanish fashion designer.

It has just been announced
that Cristóbal Balenciaga will be the one

to design the dress for the wedding
of the future Queen of Belgium,

who will look splendid in Belgium
on her wedding day.

There it is.

- The Queen of the Belgians...
- It's public now.

...has received large displays of love
from all of Spain...

...and from Madrid most of all...

This bores me so much.

...where her charity work
left a huge mark.

She is known for her work
at the service of the Church...

BALENCIAGA - EISA
MADRID, NOVEMBER 1960

Uncle, we can't
just lose Felisa and Carmen.

They're essential here.

So, please, calculate how long
you will need them for.

You're sure no one else
has the key to this room, right?

Yes, I'm sure.

But...

My God, she's so disproportionate.

- We could have gotten Grace of Monaco.
- Don't be silly, Ramón.

This is where we prove our worth.

It doesn't matter if the body
is this way or that way.

When she wears it,

she will only see a balanced
and proportionate shape.

Suck on that, prêt-à-porter!

As you can see,

the dress has
a certain medieval inspiration.

- With a slightly low fit.
- That's right.

Put it on. Take it off.

On, again.

Very well.

You're going to call all fabric providers.

We need double satin
with raincoat lining. In ivory white.

And call José Luis to tell him
we want 25 pieces of mink.

Twenty-five pieces?

- Exactly.
- Exactly.

Pure silk.

Samples of everything he has.

Yes.

All in ivory white.

Thank you, Carmencita.

Go have some coffee and come back
in an hour-and-a-half.

Right away.

We'll play only with the fabric.

No decorations, so the focus
is solely on the royal tiara.

And, as I said, the mink will start...

on this boatneck
and surround the whole cape.

Yes, I'd like to talk about the mink.

Won't it look too medieval?

Well... I do think it can add
a regal look to it, but...

don't forget that you'll be queen.

Yes, but...

I don't want to look
like the King of Spades.

Where did you get that from?

It has nothing to do with that.

I'm reminded of it.

Are you a Republican?

As a future queen, I'd like to know.

I'm surprised by the question.

I'm an old friend of your family.

Yes, but you were exiled
in France during the war.

And your main business partner
was a Republican.

I see you're well-informed.

Spain was not a great place
for business at that time.

Spain has changed a lot, thank God.

I think you should take over for me
in some business areas.

I can't stand more shareholders' meetings.

I just want to sew.

How are you dealing with your new tasks?

Well...

it's not easy, leading
and people taking you seriously, but...

I'm managing, slowly.

I don't know.

What do you think?

You're doing well.

That's why I want to give you
more responsibilities.

Very well.

I have to leave for Paris,
but once I return,

I want everything ready for a first test.

Ramón will be in charge.

We've already spoken,

so any questions you may have,
he will answer them.

Thank you for coming to work on a Sunday.

Well...

Carmen, you'll work with Natividad
and Socorro on the skirt...

A-ha.

CRISTÓBAL'S HOME
PARIS, NOVEMBER 1960

Consuelo!

Good afternoon, sir.

- How was your trip?
- Good, good.

What's this?

They brought it yesterday.

BALENCIAGA - EISA
MADRID, NOVEMBER 1960

We have to cut the skirt and sew it again.

Why?

See these wrinkles?

Cristóbal won't accept them.

But we can't. It can't be done better.

Those wrinkles show up
because mink doesn't mold like silk.

Carmen is right.

The small excess must be fitted
with a minimal tuck.

It can't be done better.

Well, I...

I'd rather you do it again.

Our work must be perfect.

Well, then...

We'll sew it again, Ramón,
but it will be for naught.

It won't look better.

Thank you, Carmen.

GIVENCHY'S HOME
PARIS, NOVEMBER 1960

My assistant, Courrèges,
is leaving to work on his own.

Really?

Mm.

I'm also leaving Givenchy
for a new project.

These kids are promising.

Like Yves Saint Laurent?

Did you know he's in a psych ward?

Poor man.

These things are really changing.

You're only 35.

You're younger than I was
when I arrived in Paris.

Younger than Dior
when he launched his "New Look."

I wish I were 30 years younger...

Thanks for the drink.

Oh, Coco!

Did you know she's mad at me?

She wanted us to do a photo shoot
together for this magazine.

I rarely show myself.

I wasn't about to do it
for this sensationalist rubbish.

What does our friend say?

Nothing important.

I don't understand English,
but if I read "Balenciaga,"

I know she's talking about me.

Translate for me, please.

"I dined with Balenciaga recently.

He was so charming.

But his Maison is so serious,

so conservative, so Spanish...

This attitude
can be detrimental for creativity."

Well...

This type of comment is great for sales.

What are friends for!

What else does she say about me?

- The other day, at a party...
- Philippe!

The other day at a party...
what, Philippe?

End the sentence!

The other day at a party
in Marie-Louise Bousquet's house...

she said that it's easy to tell
that you don't know women.

What?

That it's the only explanation

for why you expose
the lines on their necks.

She says that at parties?

I told you not to trust her.

Now that I think about it,

I don't know if it was
Coco Chanel who said it

or if Marie-Louise Bousquet
told us what Coco said...

Passengers bound for Nice

and scheduled to depart at 3:37 p.m.

should go to gate three.

Calm down, Cristóbal.

She won't recognize you.

Barely anyone has seen you.

How many photos of you
have been published?

How could she be so cruel

to say in front of everyone
that I like men?

She didn't tell everyone.

She said it at a party.

Just give it time.

Oh, my...

What if she mentions it in an interview?

I think you're misinterpreting
what Philippe told you.

Chanel probably meant that you, as a man,

can't understand women completely.

We've sewn it multiple times,
but we can't find the perfect finish.

Oh, Ramón, it's so obvious
that you can't sew.

This can't be done better.

Great work, Carmencita.

Thank you.

Fernando Martínez.

Yes, Fernando.

Did you hear about
Women's Wear Daily?

What do you mean?

The sketches for Fabiola's dress.

Someone leaked them. They're on the cover.

I've been told that they'll be
published on ¡HOLA! as well.

Tell me you're joking.

I just can't wrap my head around it.
I don't understand.

Everybody talking about us.

What a disgrace!

I don't understand!

It can't have left this room.

Shut up, Ramón!

Don't look for excuses!
You were responsible!

We've always kept everything a secret.

How can it come to light now?

What's going on?

How can it leak now?

Everyone's talking about us.

They're identical.

The English press has compared it
to a hit on the Bank of England.

Cristóbal, I'm moving out.

What nonsense is this, Ramón?

You mistreat me. You speak to me
in ways you'd never dare speak to others.

What are you saying? I yell at everyone.

Yeah, but you especially yell at me.

That's because we're close!

I yell at you just like I yell at myself!

You're the one I like most, Ramón!

What a way to show it, then.

Sometimes I don't know
what I'm doing here.

What are you doing?

Do I need to explain?

I've turned you into my right-hand man.

I've brought you into my home,

disregarding what people might say.

Wow, thank you.

You say that like it's charity work.

Chanel is telling people
that it's obvious that I don't like women.

She didn't say it like that.

You knew and you said nothing?

Don't listen to that crazy hag.

Ramón, tell me the truth.

How many stories like that
are there about me?

None that I know of.

I'm so ashamed.

Do you know if my nephews
and nieces have heard this?

I don't think so.

I hate when people talk about me.

I think you'd be happier if you
accepted that it can't be stopped.

Did the kid really make this?

Yes. His mother
fixes my dresses, and he helps.

You have no idea, he's so talented.

Do you like it, Cristóbal?

What happened? That's all we asked!

Discretion, discretion, discretion!

- It had to be a secret!
- I apologize.

I don't know how it could have happened.
Nothing like this has ever happened to me.

I'm sorry for acting like this.

I apologize.

I'm really nervous,
with everything that's happening.

- Would you like to sit?
- Yes.

Yes.

I'm being followed.
They're following me everywhere.

I leave my house, and I'm being followed.

I open the newspaper, and there I am.

If I turn on the television, I...

If I go to the movie theater...

And I've always liked being invisible.

In a few days,
I'll be exposing myself to the world.

Everyone in Spain will watch
my wedding on television.

Oh, God...

I wish I could be like you.

Like Greta Garbo, right?

Having the power to disappear.

But...

I can't, I...

That's what I get
for falling in love with a king.

Besides...

it could have been my sister.

Or even my mother.

They both know what the dress looks like.

They could have mentioned it...
at the hairdresser.

In any case, it's done.

And, anyway,
I've always denied any sketches.

A sketch has nothing to do
with the final dress.

I've been told...

that you usually hide things in the seams,

and that if you hide
a small note with a wish,

the wish comes true.

I'd like you to hide it
without reading it.

Of course.

Thank you very much.

Thank you.

Be careful. No one can see this.

The annotations.

And don't touch the dress
until I get there.

Let's go.

- Carmencita!
- Yes?

The royal tiara.

I'm carrying it?

- Very carefully, please.
- Yes.

- Of course.
- Thank you.

Well, that's it.

Call me once you arrive
at your hotel in Brussels.

We'll talk then.

Go.

Have a safe trip!

ZAVENTEM AIRPORT
BRUSSELS, DECEMBER 1960

It was incredible.
I could not believe it.

Six motorbikes flanked us
all the way to Laeken Palace.

That's something prêt-à-porter
will never achieve...

Being flanked by six motorbikes.

I'm not being nostalgic.

It's just different.

What did Fabiola's note say?

I don't know, I never read it.

And the entourage
arrives at Boulevard de l'Empereur,

where it marches on
amidst incessant clamoring

towards the Cathedral
of St. Michael and St. Gudula.

In the transept,
adorned with carnations from Spain,

the religious ceremony will be held.

This place is the ideal setting
to welcome the couple,

an entire country wishes to see married.

Those sleeves...

They look perfect to me.

You can't tell one shoulder's
higher than the other,

or that her back is bent.

It's wonderful, uncle.

Father would have loved to see this.

The people have seen their queen,
and they wish to see her again.

Finally, the royal couple
appears on the balcony.

Two young people have joined
their fates on this memorable date,

two young people who are king and queen.

Excuse me.

Good afternoon, madam.

Did you know that you can take
your coat to Maison Balenciaga

to have it ironed?

- Sorry?
- I saw that the plaid doesn't fall...

Sorry, but I don't know
who you think you are

to insinuate that my coat is ruined.

That's my coat.

I'm Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Nice to meet you, but you're wrong.

The coat is mine, I paid for it,

and I can wear it however I want.

Good afternoon.