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As we enter our fourth week, our magnificent seven sewers
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are about to tackle techniques and fabrics from all over the world.
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The Great British Sewing Bee is going international.
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At the last sewing bee...
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I haven't got a bloody clue.
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..things got a little bit 50 Shades..
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At my age, I should know better.
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..as the sewers got their hands on lingerie.
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How can that fit on someone's boob?
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Charlotte won garment of the week for the first time...
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APPLAUSE
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..and after a disastrous Made-to-measure...
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- Jamie, isn't it a bit late for cutting out?
- Yeah, it is.
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..Jamie's time in the sewing room
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ended earlier than anyone was expecting.
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You've been a bright star, Jamie.
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Now the seven remaining sewers...
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Ooh-ah.
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..will travel the world...
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Oh, come on.
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..with a Pattern Challenge from the Far East...
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Origami here. I'm losing my marbles.
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..an Alteration that could last forever...
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Blimey. It goes on and on and on.
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..and a Made-to-measure...
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- Look, you're matching.
- Yes -
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I thought I'd have a go with a piece, you see?
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..all the way from West Africa.
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Josh.
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How are you?
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I'm all right, yeah. How are you?
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# Come fly with me
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# Let's fly, let's fly away. #
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My tactic for this week is not to overcomplicate things.
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Right, Joyce?
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I'm sorting myself out.
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I am actually going to go more simple
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but try and present a perfect garment.
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- Look what I've found.
- An unpicker, Joyce.
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Well, I've been using my little one all this time.
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Not that I've used it a lot, you understand.
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I think mine's gone blunt.
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LAUGHTER
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I never thought I would be the last man standing.
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I need to start climbing up the ladder in the first two challenges.
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They are the ones that I have struggled with every week.
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We are all on a knife edge.
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Everybody is good. All it takes is one bad day
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and any of us could be leaving.
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Good morning, sewers.
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Now, this week each challenge focuses on a different country
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or a different culture.
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- Feeling OK so far?
- No.
- OK.
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Quite a lot of shaking heads. All right.
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Patrick, what do you have for them?
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I'll hand you out a pattern.
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A Chinese top.
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This one is called a qipao.
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It's tight fitting,
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it's got a Mandarin collar
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and it's made with an elaborate brocade.
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Has anybody made anything like this before?
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No.
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Welcome to International Week.
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You have three hours and 45 minutes.
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Your time starts now.
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- Whoo!
- LAUGHTER
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No running.
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Mine.
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Ha-ha-ha.
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If you're having that, I'm having red.
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- Do you want to swap?
- Yeah!
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I've chosen this really nice teal brocade.
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I really love the colour.
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I've gone for green just because I think it looks really rich
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and, like, emerald green,
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although I'm sure my Chinese friend is going to be like, "No, red.
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"Red, prosperity." I think.
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Silk brocade has been worn in China since the Middle Ages.
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Its combination of fine silk
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and gold thread demands very skilful sewing.
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I have worked brocade before and it just frays like mad.
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Why International Week?
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Well, we are surrounded in this country
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by clothes from all over the world,
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and so many of these pieces of clothing we see every day
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have inspired and transformed Western clothing.
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Let's talk about this top.
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It looks incredibly tricky.
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It will be tricky.
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It's asymmetrical.
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This edge is not on the grain
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so they have to be really careful how they sew that
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and don't stretch it.
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This collar looks tricky.
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They have to sew this Mandarin collar
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with complete and utter precision.
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Yes, it will be really obvious if it is not the same at the front.
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It will be really obvious if it doesn't fit here
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and that has to be beautifully top-stitched.
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We are looking for these panels to fit flush to the mannequin.
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And the darts have to be on the same level
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and they mustn't be what I call "poky".
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OK, so it's a closely fitted,
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really quite complex garment
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made with fabric that frays.
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- Yes.
- Correct.
- Wow.
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Never made a Chinese top before. I have worn one.
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It is something that, hopefully, I would like to wear
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if I get the opportunity afterwards.
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The qipao style top pattern contains seven separate pieces.
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Darts are sewn into the main front and back pieces to give shape.
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The two front panels are stitched to the back at the shoulders.
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An invisible zip is added to the right seam
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and a Mandarin collar is attached to the neck.
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This is the first time I have worked with brocade.
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The fabric is quite slippery
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so I've decided to use my pattern weights to put it down
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in the right places, and then I'll pin it.
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I went for the double pins and weights option
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just to be really sure nothing's moving!
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There is two darts in the back and four in the front,
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which is quite a few darts.
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I am tailor-tacking, so that I know where my darts need to go.
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Tailor's chalk rubs off shiny fabric
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so the sewers need to find other ways
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to mark the crucial positioning of the darts.
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So, I'm just marking the dots of the dart with the pins.
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Mark out all the different points in dot to dot,
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join it together, make a dart.
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I'm just go to join up the dots with a pen
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so I can see what I need to do.
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It's very important that the darts are even.
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Because this is such a tight-fitting garment,
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if they're not, then it will just look skew-whiff.
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Once marked, the fabric in the dart is folded in on itself
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and secured with a line of stitching.
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The darts are tricky
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only because you've got to have a nice, soft taper.
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You can't have a lump either end.
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I'm leaving the pins in.
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Sometimes I take them out so I don't sew over them,
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but in this case I'd rather break a needle.
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Take out my tailor's tack.
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With a press, that's the first one done.
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- Have you put the darts in?
- I have one dart in.
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- Have you ever done anything like this before?
- No.
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I've never done anything like this before.
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I haven't worked with this type of fabric before.
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Now, I don't want to bring up last week's Pattern Challenge...
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- Yes, you do.
- Yeah, I can't help myself,
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but is it important to you that this week you do well?
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Absolutely, yeah.
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It's important that I finish and I do well.
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But not everyone's making progress.
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- Are you all right?
- I'm OK, yeah.
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It's just taking me a while to cut out and transfer the markings
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and stuff like that.
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- So you haven't done any sewing at all?
- No.
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- I want you to get a move on.
- Yeah, I know.
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Is it bad that I am saying that? It's because I love you, Josh.
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I know. I know. It's my trouble, you see?
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Do you need this situation?
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- Yeah.
- Shall I bring it?
- Yes, please, yeah.
- All right.
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- This is a beautiful fabric.
- Thank you.
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# I'd love to get you
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# On a slow boat to China... #
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Once the darts are finished,
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there's even more precision required around the neckline.
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Is this bias binding?
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This is bias binding.
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You are brilliant, Joyce.
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I've just been at Josh's station.
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He has literally just opened the pattern.
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The bound asymmetrical neckline
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is the most noticeable part of the garment.
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The binding appears to go here.
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It just takes a lot of concentration to make sure
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that you're pinning the right sides together.
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Any flaws here and the classic lines of the qipao will be ruined.
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Don't stretch it.
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- See that row of stitching there?
- Yes.
- That holds it.
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- OK, but it's not pulled?
- Oh, no.
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So I need to trim all this excess away
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and then I'll be able to fold it around like that
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and that's how it should finish off,
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so you won't be able to see any of the bias binding.
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It will be a nice clean edge.
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While most of the sewers are using the machine to attach their binding,
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Joyce has other ideas.
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My hand stitching is nothing compared to Charlotte's
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but it's on and it's secure.
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So now I'm concentrating on this little bit here.
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- Good morning.
- Good morning.
- Good morning, Jade.
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- How are you getting on?
- Good. I've got my binding.
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Show me the...
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So, you sew it on and then it says fold it in half
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- and then top-stitch it on.
- And what does it say halfway down?
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"Fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment
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"and press the pin in place."
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Oh, so the binding goes actually on the whole of the inside, does it?
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What does it say?
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- I did read it!
- Did you?
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- Yes, I did read it.
- Yeah?
- Obviously, er...
- Yeah.
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We wrote it in English, too.
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Are you sure?
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The binding goes along the inside.
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I've just learnt that.
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- The penny is dropping all around the room.
- Mm.
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- What are we doing?
- I did that.
- Yeah.
- But it doesn't.
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- It goes on at the inside.
- Oh, it doesn't?
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Oh, all that hand-sewing for nothing.
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Oh, I prefer it showing.
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- Yeah, same. I was proper happy with my top stitching.
- Dare I leave it?
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Isn't that more interesting?
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I'm going to leave it.
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Honestly, I like that.
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So I'll be marked down, but...
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"With the right sides together,
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"pin and sew the two front panels
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"to the back panel at the shoulder seam."
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The pattern demands that the qipao closes from left to right.
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I'm just trying to make sure I am crossing the right piece
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over the right piece.
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The Chinese considered a right to left fastening barbaric.
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I'm just trying to work it out in my own mind.
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Origami here.
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I'm losing my marbles.
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Right. Okey dokey.
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So many parts to it, with the left front, the right front, the upper...
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It's just very confusing to keep track.
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I honestly don't... I'm not on track,
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but I don't think I'm a mile behind where I want to be.
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That goes over there,
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that goes over there. OK.
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Right, next.
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Oh, God, the zip.
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We've seen some of them insert invisible zips,
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but it's never been in a Pattern Challenge before.
240
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Can we talk about this one? Because this one looks tricky.
241
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Will you open it for me and describe, Esme?
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Right.
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So what's important here is that this invisible zip
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goes up to this point here.
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So it won't go all the way to the top, so they're going to have
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to put the invisible zip in first and then put this on.
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It's just more the positioning of the zipper, I think, on this one.
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If you look at the back of it,
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the zip notch is quite far down in comparison to the top,
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so I don't know what way it sits, to be honest.
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Where do you line-up the top of the zip? On the left, front?
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I think you've got to do it to that side of the zipper tape,
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00:11:06,840 --> 00:11:09,600
so that when it all gets turned the right way out,
254
00:11:09,600 --> 00:11:11,680
you won't see the edge of the zipper tape.
255
00:11:11,680 --> 00:11:12,960
Oh, I see.
256
00:11:15,160 --> 00:11:18,000
- Happy with it so far?
- Erm...hm.
257
00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:19,960
Got a bit confused with the zip.
258
00:11:19,960 --> 00:11:21,520
Well, it should finish up here.
259
00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:24,360
I know, and I tried to measure it out but it just didn't...
260
00:11:24,360 --> 00:11:29,320
- Because all of a sudden now, this is going somewhere very different.
- Oh.
261
00:11:29,320 --> 00:11:32,280
I measured it out and everything, and it didn't really work like that.
262
00:11:32,280 --> 00:11:36,560
- I think you might have to just...
- Make do.
- ..press on.
- Oh, no, right.
263
00:11:36,560 --> 00:11:41,640
Let me see. That goes like so, I hope.
264
00:11:43,640 --> 00:11:48,240
- Jade, the side with the zip...
- Yeah?
- Because I'm totally confused there.
265
00:11:48,240 --> 00:11:51,200
I would have left that open on the armhole.
266
00:11:51,200 --> 00:11:53,520
- And it doesn't say to in the pattern.
- No.
267
00:11:53,520 --> 00:11:56,280
Doesn't that make sense to leave it open there?
268
00:11:58,280 --> 00:11:59,880
One hour left...
269
00:11:59,880 --> 00:12:02,680
on your first International Challenge.
270
00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:04,840
This is where the garment's going to start,
271
00:12:04,840 --> 00:12:09,480
- hopefully, coming together.
- This is a Mandarin collar.
272
00:12:09,480 --> 00:12:11,440
Never done one of these before.
273
00:12:11,440 --> 00:12:14,600
It's a little collar that just stands up all the way round
274
00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:15,640
close to the neck.
275
00:12:15,640 --> 00:12:18,640
You've got to iron up this edge a centimetre all the way along.
276
00:12:18,640 --> 00:12:21,240
Ow! Without burning your fingers.
277
00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:23,600
Hah! It's hot, it's hot, it's hot.
278
00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:26,280
The thing they're going to be looking for is that it's the same.
279
00:12:26,280 --> 00:12:28,760
Got to try and make sure I keep it really symmetrical.
280
00:12:28,760 --> 00:12:33,800
I've sewn the collar together and pressed under the underside.
281
00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:36,320
And I'm now attaching it to the neck.
282
00:12:36,320 --> 00:12:39,480
That gets pressed it like that. Duh-duh.
283
00:12:39,480 --> 00:12:41,880
So that's where we're at at the moment.
284
00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:43,880
My collar is going in.
285
00:12:43,880 --> 00:12:46,920
Whether it's a good collar or a bad collar, I've no idea -
286
00:12:46,920 --> 00:12:48,960
I've never made one of these before.
287
00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:56,160
I think I'm handling it OK. OK, that's that bit done.
288
00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:57,800
Showing the armhole facings,
289
00:12:57,800 --> 00:13:00,960
just catching them at top and bottom shoulder seams.
290
00:13:00,960 --> 00:13:03,800
Just so they don't all pop out like that, look, see?
291
00:13:03,800 --> 00:13:05,760
Normally you'd sew it all the way round.
292
00:13:05,760 --> 00:13:08,320
Half an hour left, sewers, half an hour left.
293
00:13:08,320 --> 00:13:09,960
We've only got half an hour left,
294
00:13:09,960 --> 00:13:12,360
so we're not sewing it all the way around.
295
00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:14,880
I'm just finding the middle point of the collar.
296
00:13:14,880 --> 00:13:17,400
Then, when I find the middle point of the neckline,
297
00:13:17,400 --> 00:13:20,400
I know how much ease is going to have to go in either side.
298
00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:21,680
Oh, come on.
299
00:13:21,680 --> 00:13:24,400
- Get your boobies out the way!
- Do you need a hand, Charlotte?
300
00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:26,480
I can't get it on... Yes, please.
301
00:13:26,480 --> 00:13:27,840
If you have a minute.
302
00:13:29,040 --> 00:13:33,120
- I can help squeeze your shoulders.
- You squeeze my shoulders.
303
00:13:33,120 --> 00:13:36,000
- There we go. There we go.
- Phew!
304
00:13:36,000 --> 00:13:38,160
Seriously, imagine actually having to...
305
00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:39,960
- Did I undo the zip?
- Have you undone the zip?
306
00:13:39,960 --> 00:13:42,400
- I haven't undone the bloody zip!
- That helps, doesn't it?
307
00:13:42,400 --> 00:13:44,840
What a good idea if I undid the zip.
308
00:13:44,840 --> 00:13:47,600
The zip is undone.
309
00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:49,680
I stretched out my neckline.
310
00:13:50,880 --> 00:13:54,600
Can do nothing about that. Shouldn't have looked.
311
00:13:54,600 --> 00:13:57,040
I just put my top on my mannequin and I realised
312
00:13:57,040 --> 00:14:00,320
I stretched out the front edge, so I'm a bit annoyed about that.
313
00:14:00,320 --> 00:14:02,840
It's stretched out because I didn't do the stay stitching.
314
00:14:02,840 --> 00:14:04,920
Because I didn't read the pattern properly.
315
00:14:04,920 --> 00:14:07,520
The judges are so going to notice.
316
00:14:07,520 --> 00:14:11,320
- 15 minutes left.
- Right, let's do it.
317
00:14:11,320 --> 00:14:13,400
Let's get the old frogging on.
318
00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:15,600
Frogging is an ornamental fastening
319
00:14:15,600 --> 00:14:19,200
traditionally used on Chinese garments instead of buttons.
320
00:14:19,200 --> 00:14:21,760
- Look, isn't that pretty?
- That's so pretty!
321
00:14:21,760 --> 00:14:23,200
Yes, I thought so.
322
00:14:23,200 --> 00:14:24,560
You know where the frogs go
323
00:14:24,560 --> 00:14:27,560
because there's actually a marking on the pattern.
324
00:14:27,560 --> 00:14:28,800
It's not made easier
325
00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:31,400
by the mannequin being a lot taller than me.
326
00:14:31,400 --> 00:14:34,240
I love what hand sewing does for a garment,
327
00:14:34,240 --> 00:14:36,120
I just bloody hate doing it.
328
00:14:38,040 --> 00:14:40,800
It just really needs a press, but I don't think I'll have time.
329
00:14:40,800 --> 00:14:44,720
- One more.
- I've run out of thread.
330
00:14:44,720 --> 00:14:48,120
- Oh, I'm so annoyed.
- What's the hem?
331
00:14:48,120 --> 00:14:51,920
- Just a single fold?
- I'm doing it twice because it's just such a mess.
332
00:14:51,920 --> 00:14:53,560
Look at the bottom of it now.
333
00:14:53,560 --> 00:14:55,040
SHE LAUGHS
334
00:14:55,040 --> 00:14:57,520
See, I've got threads everywhere.
335
00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:03,240
Never ideal to sew a hem in a rush. Ever.
336
00:15:03,240 --> 00:15:05,600
Tracey's happy! Are you done?
337
00:15:05,600 --> 00:15:09,960
- Yeah, I think so.
- Tracey, shout for me "two minutes".
- Two minutes.
338
00:15:09,960 --> 00:15:11,120
Are we all done?
339
00:15:11,120 --> 00:15:14,520
No, that was too nice, you have to do it with slightly more aggression.
340
00:15:14,520 --> 00:15:15,920
Just two minutes!
341
00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:18,120
A shock you had to say my name here, look.
342
00:15:19,600 --> 00:15:21,240
Two minutes, blimey.
343
00:15:26,800 --> 00:15:29,080
I don't how you work this contraption.
344
00:15:29,080 --> 00:15:30,960
Right, just ease it over.
345
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:35,800
OK, the challenge is over.
346
00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:40,480
- Scissors down, scissors down.
- My hands are here.
347
00:15:40,480 --> 00:15:44,880
Take your mannequins over to the judges.
348
00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:46,920
Mine's had a drink.
349
00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:53,800
Seven qipao tops made from scratch -
350
00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:55,840
but what will Esme and Patrick
351
00:15:55,840 --> 00:15:59,240
make of the first garments of International Week?
352
00:15:59,240 --> 00:16:02,600
Angeline, you're up first. Please bring your top forward.
353
00:16:08,360 --> 00:16:10,680
- It's a little bit tight.
- Mm-hm.
354
00:16:10,680 --> 00:16:13,440
It could have been because on each seam you took too much
355
00:16:13,440 --> 00:16:16,000
- on the four darts and the two seams.
- Mm-hm.
356
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:17,680
Let's undo here.
357
00:16:17,680 --> 00:16:19,760
That's pretty good.
358
00:16:19,760 --> 00:16:22,040
I think this could have been pressed a bit better.
359
00:16:22,040 --> 00:16:25,480
And can you see how this is slightly baggy here?
360
00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:28,560
That collar is a little square, and that one's a little round,
361
00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:30,440
which is throwing me off a little bit.
362
00:16:30,440 --> 00:16:33,040
It's all there, it just lacks a little finesse.
363
00:16:40,560 --> 00:16:45,760
The front of this is really smooth and flat. The collar looks even.
364
00:16:47,080 --> 00:16:48,680
That's in well.
365
00:16:48,680 --> 00:16:50,840
All the important bits are right,
366
00:16:50,840 --> 00:16:52,600
all the darts are in the right place.
367
00:16:52,600 --> 00:16:55,120
The armholes look really neat and smooth.
368
00:16:55,120 --> 00:16:59,360
It's a really clean, crisp, precise piece of sewing.
369
00:16:59,360 --> 00:17:02,720
- There's not much I can really say to fault it.
- Thank you.
370
00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:04,840
- You've done well.
- Thank you.
371
00:17:13,080 --> 00:17:16,080
So, the first thing that strikes me
372
00:17:16,080 --> 00:17:19,320
is that you've taking your own path to finishing this edge.
373
00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:21,800
Honestly, I misread the pattern.
374
00:17:21,800 --> 00:17:25,120
I was actually going to come back to that and alter it, if I had time.
375
00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:29,840
OK. So, there's that. Let's have a look at your zip.
376
00:17:29,840 --> 00:17:32,200
Something is completely wro...
377
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:35,200
You've done it your own way, you've given us a bound edge
378
00:17:35,200 --> 00:17:37,640
and you've given us a completely different opening,
379
00:17:37,640 --> 00:17:40,360
but actually you've done it quite nicely and it sits well.
380
00:17:40,360 --> 00:17:43,840
The darts are good, the collar looks good, but...
381
00:17:43,840 --> 00:17:45,800
It's not what we asked for.
382
00:17:45,800 --> 00:17:48,760
- You're infuriating, Joyce.
- I'm sorry.
383
00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:51,360
- And...
- I'm sorry. I did try.
384
00:17:55,920 --> 00:17:59,240
Let's have a look at the zip. OK, well, it goes up and down.
385
00:17:59,240 --> 00:18:03,920
But I think it can't quite be high enough. Did you go to the notch?
386
00:18:03,920 --> 00:18:06,480
I think I mismatched my notches.
387
00:18:06,480 --> 00:18:10,760
- So we've got one where the bosom will be coming through.
- Yeah.
388
00:18:10,760 --> 00:18:12,640
You've sewn the darts nicely.
389
00:18:12,640 --> 00:18:15,200
But it's all in the right place, it's just...
390
00:18:16,480 --> 00:18:18,880
- Still waiting for that perfect sew.
- Yeah.
391
00:18:24,720 --> 00:18:27,400
You haven't quite got this bit right.
392
00:18:27,400 --> 00:18:31,880
This zip should have finished higher up, which would have lifted that up.
393
00:18:31,880 --> 00:18:35,240
There's all sorts of stuff that's just pulling it out of shape here.
394
00:18:35,240 --> 00:18:38,640
And you've also overstretched this edge.
395
00:18:38,640 --> 00:18:43,240
Give it a little move around and it's starting to open up and gape.
396
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:50,320
Judges.
397
00:18:50,320 --> 00:18:53,720
- Don't make me cry.
- This one's not breaking.
- I know.
398
00:18:53,720 --> 00:18:57,640
Because so much of it is so good, the darts are really neat,
399
00:18:57,640 --> 00:19:01,720
the seams are well together, and then you've just gone and done this.
400
00:19:01,720 --> 00:19:05,680
You've stretched that whole front edge so far out of shape that,
401
00:19:05,680 --> 00:19:09,480
really, it's kind of... barely wearable.
402
00:19:09,480 --> 00:19:13,920
Everything else is sewn really nicely and beautifully.
403
00:19:13,920 --> 00:19:18,120
- I'm really upset.
- This just wasn't a good one for you.
- No.
404
00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:20,680
Thank you very much, thank you, Charlotte.
405
00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:31,800
- WHISPERS:
- Don't worry, it's only sewing, it's only sewing. It's OK.
406
00:19:38,480 --> 00:19:40,560
HE EXHALES
407
00:19:40,560 --> 00:19:46,120
- Right, Josh. Well, I don't think you've done badly at all.
- Thank you.
408
00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:50,800
The collar is pretty even. The zip...
409
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:52,680
..is pretty good as well.
410
00:19:52,680 --> 00:19:54,320
The most obvious bit, for me,
411
00:19:54,320 --> 00:19:57,720
is the way that it's sitting across the chest.
412
00:19:57,720 --> 00:19:59,960
And this is sitting really nicely across the chest.
413
00:19:59,960 --> 00:20:01,080
You've got your binding,
414
00:20:01,080 --> 00:20:03,760
the accuracy with which you've top-stitched it round there
415
00:20:03,760 --> 00:20:04,960
is really good.
416
00:20:04,960 --> 00:20:07,720
You were slow into it, but once you got there,
417
00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:09,320
it's a really good piece of sewing,
418
00:20:09,320 --> 00:20:11,040
so you should be very pleased with it.
419
00:20:11,040 --> 00:20:14,680
- Thank you very much.
- Yes, you've done well.
- Thank you.
420
00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:20,840
Esme and Patrick will now reveal who has mastered the qipao.
421
00:20:20,840 --> 00:20:24,880
In seventh place, after much philosophical rumination,
422
00:20:24,880 --> 00:20:26,560
it's Joyce.
423
00:20:26,560 --> 00:20:30,080
And only because you didn't follow the instructions.
424
00:20:30,080 --> 00:20:32,760
In sixth place is Jade.
425
00:20:32,760 --> 00:20:36,400
The front was wobbly, the zip wasn't in the right place.
426
00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:39,280
'Charlotte is fifth. Rumana is forth
427
00:20:39,280 --> 00:20:41,080
'and Angeline is third.'
428
00:20:41,080 --> 00:20:43,120
In second place...
429
00:20:45,480 --> 00:20:49,120
..is Josh. And well done, Josh.
430
00:20:49,120 --> 00:20:52,520
This is what it feels like to be in the top two!
431
00:20:52,520 --> 00:20:54,000
You did really well,
432
00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:57,400
and you were really panicked at the beginning but you pulled it back.
433
00:20:57,400 --> 00:21:00,280
- Thank you.
- So, our winner is Tracy.
434
00:21:00,280 --> 00:21:02,760
APPLAUSE
435
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:06,120
Very crisp, beautifully flat around the chest,
436
00:21:06,120 --> 00:21:07,600
a beautiful piece of sewing.
437
00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:09,400
Well, you can go and celebrate,
438
00:21:09,400 --> 00:21:11,600
make an enormous fuss of Josh, who...
439
00:21:11,600 --> 00:21:14,000
- Yeah.
- Thank you.
- Very well done. ..came second.
440
00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:15,320
And then when you come back,
441
00:21:15,320 --> 00:21:19,480
there will be the International Alteration Challenge.
442
00:21:19,480 --> 00:21:24,440
# I'm mad about the boy... #
443
00:21:24,440 --> 00:21:26,360
Well done, Tracy. Well done, Josh.
444
00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:28,360
I'm sorry I've kind of stole your thunder.
445
00:21:28,360 --> 00:21:30,320
You're all right, darling, you're all right.
446
00:21:30,320 --> 00:21:33,040
This feeling is as good a scoring the winning goal in football.
447
00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:35,000
Not that I get the chance to score very often.
448
00:21:35,000 --> 00:21:37,280
Absolutely chuffed to bits.
449
00:21:37,280 --> 00:21:39,480
Really, really thrilled with that.
450
00:21:39,480 --> 00:21:42,080
That wasn't my favourite judging experience.
451
00:21:42,080 --> 00:21:44,440
I think if Joyce hadn't had done a Joyce,
452
00:21:44,440 --> 00:21:47,840
I definitely would have been in seventh place.
453
00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:49,920
Everybody thinks I went off-piste,
454
00:21:49,920 --> 00:21:53,440
but there were only two things, you know, that I did differently!
455
00:21:58,200 --> 00:22:01,040
My favourite bit, I'm not sure it's yours,
456
00:22:01,040 --> 00:22:04,120
but are you ready for your International Week
457
00:22:04,120 --> 00:22:05,760
Alteration Challenge?
458
00:22:05,760 --> 00:22:07,040
As ready as we'll ever be.
459
00:22:07,040 --> 00:22:08,880
We're giving you a garment
460
00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:12,880
with literally yards of beautiful embroidered fabric.
461
00:22:14,160 --> 00:22:15,800
GASPS
462
00:22:15,800 --> 00:22:17,400
Hey!
463
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:19,600
It is, of course, a sari -
464
00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:21,600
and from this we'd like you to make
465
00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:23,960
a piece of Eastern-inspired clothing.
466
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:26,280
Remember, the cutting from the East
467
00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:32,480
is quite often based on a rectangle, a triangle or a square.
468
00:22:32,480 --> 00:22:35,720
- All right, judges, you have to leave now. Off you go.
- Are you sure?
469
00:22:35,720 --> 00:22:39,320
- Yes, goodbye.
- Goodbye.
- The Monopoly board is set up.
470
00:22:39,320 --> 00:22:42,800
OK, you all have a selection of saris, choose your favourite.
471
00:22:42,800 --> 00:22:46,200
You've got an hour and a half. Your time starts now.
472
00:22:47,640 --> 00:22:49,920
- Reveal.
- This one?
473
00:22:49,920 --> 00:22:51,800
Go for some of those.
474
00:22:51,800 --> 00:22:54,320
- I'll take this one.
- That's a nice one.
- Do you want that one?
475
00:22:54,320 --> 00:22:57,560
- That's gorgeous.
- I want one with a big border, so I'm having this one.
476
00:22:57,560 --> 00:23:00,440
- I'm picking her up.
- How do you even get these things undone?
477
00:23:00,440 --> 00:23:01,960
Charlotte!
478
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:03,920
Blimey! It goes on and on and on.
479
00:23:03,920 --> 00:23:06,000
It just keeps going!
480
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:08,360
The fabric is sheerer than I imagined.
481
00:23:08,360 --> 00:23:11,440
Consequently, I think it's got to be very gathered.
482
00:23:11,440 --> 00:23:14,400
You know, or else you'll see your knickers through it.
483
00:23:14,400 --> 00:23:18,400
This fabric is quite sheer. So you don't want something tight.
484
00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:19,880
What I'm looking for
485
00:23:19,880 --> 00:23:23,880
is just a sympathetic use of all of the bits of the sari fabric.
486
00:23:23,880 --> 00:23:27,360
How much plain fabric they have versus the embroidered sections,
487
00:23:27,360 --> 00:23:29,520
and how they use those, I think, will be important.
488
00:23:29,520 --> 00:23:32,000
The colours are vibrant, the embroidery is gorgeous,
489
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:35,400
so we want them to make something absolutely fabulous.
490
00:23:35,400 --> 00:23:40,080
My plan is to make what we call an anarkali.
491
00:23:40,080 --> 00:23:41,120
Anarkali.
492
00:23:41,120 --> 00:23:43,080
I'm going to use the blouse bit of the sari,
493
00:23:43,080 --> 00:23:45,640
and then make these panels, stitch them together,
494
00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:47,360
and it gives a really flowy skirt.
495
00:23:47,360 --> 00:23:49,720
I'm going to stitch here for the armholes
496
00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:51,920
and have something flowing down,
497
00:23:51,920 --> 00:23:54,480
so it's going to be like a floaty, boxy top.
498
00:23:54,480 --> 00:23:56,640
- When my dad used to work in the Middle East...
- Yeah?
499
00:23:56,640 --> 00:23:58,680
..he used to bring home lots of things like this.
500
00:23:58,680 --> 00:24:00,080
They're basically rectangles,
501
00:24:00,080 --> 00:24:01,400
so I'm going to use the border
502
00:24:01,400 --> 00:24:03,320
- on the sleeve and on the bottom.
- Gorgeous.
503
00:24:03,320 --> 00:24:07,520
I want to make like a Turkish belly dancer's outfit.
504
00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:09,280
SHE HUMS
505
00:24:09,280 --> 00:24:12,400
With, like, baggy trousers and then a crop top.
506
00:24:12,400 --> 00:24:14,640
I think I might make some Israeli trousers.
507
00:24:14,640 --> 00:24:17,720
I'm making trousers like out of Aladdin.
508
00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:19,720
If I took that off...
509
00:24:21,320 --> 00:24:22,560
OK.
510
00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:27,200
Going to make loose trousers.
511
00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:31,080
One hour remaining to transform a sari.
512
00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:32,760
I need to measure the crotch distance,
513
00:24:32,760 --> 00:24:34,680
because you don't want your pants too tight,
514
00:24:34,680 --> 00:24:36,200
and I think I want them quite loose.
515
00:24:36,200 --> 00:24:38,880
I'm just measuring the length,
516
00:24:38,880 --> 00:24:41,960
just so that I can get the measurement spot on.
517
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,920
I've cut it so that the top
518
00:24:43,920 --> 00:24:46,760
and the bottom of the trousers have this nice trim on it.
519
00:24:46,760 --> 00:24:50,200
I'm thinking about how wide actually I need the body part to be.
520
00:24:50,200 --> 00:24:52,320
I might make to fit me, never mind the dummy!
521
00:24:52,320 --> 00:24:53,600
SHE LAUGHS
522
00:24:53,600 --> 00:24:55,240
Then I can wear it.
523
00:24:57,520 --> 00:24:59,520
- Hello, darling.
- Hello.
- What are you making?
524
00:24:59,520 --> 00:25:02,040
I'm sewing these panels that make the skirt,
525
00:25:02,040 --> 00:25:05,240
- so it comes out in a flared skirt.
- GASPS: Oh, look!
526
00:25:05,240 --> 00:25:06,920
That's so beautiful.
527
00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:09,320
I thought it'd be a real shame if we didn't do a sari.
528
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:11,640
I've got loads at home, so it'll be really interesting
529
00:25:11,640 --> 00:25:13,160
to see what everyone comes up with,
530
00:25:13,160 --> 00:25:14,960
because then I can just refashion them.
531
00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:18,280
Maybe not my mum's wedding ones and things, but, you know...
532
00:25:18,280 --> 00:25:20,200
Sewers, you are halfway through.
533
00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:25,960
This is the little slit at the bottom of the side seam.
534
00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:28,240
Not the easiest thing in the world to sew,
535
00:25:28,240 --> 00:25:30,400
because the diamonds or whatever you call them
536
00:25:30,400 --> 00:25:32,800
keep stopping your needle.
537
00:25:32,800 --> 00:25:35,840
I'm just sewing the inseam of my trouser legs.
538
00:25:35,840 --> 00:25:38,240
Going really slowly over this big embroidered bit,
539
00:25:38,240 --> 00:25:39,880
because it's got little gems in it.
540
00:25:39,880 --> 00:25:42,120
Makes it less likely that you'll break a needle...
541
00:25:42,120 --> 00:25:44,640
I'm sewing in the sleeve and the side sleeve all in one,
542
00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:47,040
so it's like up and across.
543
00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:50,680
The sleeve when it's done will look like a big square.
544
00:25:50,680 --> 00:25:53,240
I'll just stretch the elastic as I sew it
545
00:25:53,240 --> 00:25:55,440
and then it should fit nicely around her waist.
546
00:25:56,520 --> 00:25:59,440
Doesn't quite meet over her hips.
547
00:25:59,440 --> 00:26:02,120
She has got quite an odd butt.
548
00:26:02,120 --> 00:26:04,360
Whilst his trousers ARE fitting,
549
00:26:04,360 --> 00:26:07,480
Josh still has another garment to make.
550
00:26:07,480 --> 00:26:10,320
I'm now trying to decide how I'm going to make my top.
551
00:26:10,320 --> 00:26:11,560
I want to use this,
552
00:26:11,560 --> 00:26:13,960
but I want it to be a little bit more revealing
553
00:26:13,960 --> 00:26:16,400
cos it is going to be a belly dancer top.
554
00:26:16,400 --> 00:26:19,000
Sewers, you have half an hour left,
555
00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:23,360
to change a sari into... something else.
556
00:26:25,320 --> 00:26:27,960
I'm gathering the trousers at the bottom,
557
00:26:27,960 --> 00:26:31,320
and these are the cuffs that they're going to go in.
558
00:26:31,320 --> 00:26:33,440
Have to make sure you can get your feet over it,
559
00:26:33,440 --> 00:26:36,360
and let's just hope it comes off
560
00:26:36,360 --> 00:26:39,480
and the judges forgive me for this morning.
561
00:26:39,480 --> 00:26:41,520
I might need to take the top in a little bit.
562
00:26:41,520 --> 00:26:43,480
I just want to check it fits...
563
00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:46,960
It'll be a disaster if it doesn't fit, which is kind of doesn't.
564
00:26:46,960 --> 00:26:48,680
Her butt is so big...
565
00:26:48,680 --> 00:26:51,800
But I'm just going to add a teeny-tiny panel,
566
00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,200
just from there to there.
567
00:26:54,200 --> 00:26:55,800
It doesn't fit!
568
00:26:55,800 --> 00:26:57,920
Oh... What to do?
569
00:26:57,920 --> 00:26:59,440
Will you do it on the other side?
570
00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:01,560
If I have time to do it on the other side.
571
00:27:01,560 --> 00:27:03,600
OK. So I need to undo this bit...
572
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:07,520
Just going to make a gap in the seam, to open that up.
573
00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:09,320
There's triangles in the sari,
574
00:27:09,320 --> 00:27:13,000
so I'm just attaching the trimming at the base of the kimono.
575
00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:15,000
Can't touch this!
576
00:27:15,000 --> 00:27:17,080
- No, you can't.
- This...is Hammer Time(!)
577
00:27:19,160 --> 00:27:22,800
This will be the sleeves for the belly dancer crop top thing.
578
00:27:24,600 --> 00:27:26,840
Look how beautiful this is!
579
00:27:26,840 --> 00:27:28,880
Are you making a waistband?
580
00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:31,480
No, I'm going to hide the horrible front.
581
00:27:31,480 --> 00:27:34,040
- So do a nice panel!
- Exactly.
- A bit like Esme's wearing today.
582
00:27:34,040 --> 00:27:38,800
So I've sewn to the inside of my waistband some casing,
583
00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:41,560
and I'm going to feed some elastic through and then sew it shut.
584
00:27:41,560 --> 00:27:45,320
I'm just sewing the elastic straight into the actual thing itself...
585
00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:47,920
I'm gathering the fabric into the bottom cuff -
586
00:27:47,920 --> 00:27:52,480
I've got to get a lot of fabric in a very small opening.
587
00:27:53,440 --> 00:27:55,360
You have ten minutes left, sewers!
588
00:27:55,360 --> 00:27:56,480
Oh, blimey.
589
00:27:56,480 --> 00:27:59,200
Just keep stitching, just keep stitching...
590
00:27:59,200 --> 00:28:01,640
Speed sewing is required.
591
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:06,160
Sorry...
592
00:28:06,160 --> 00:28:08,000
Just hand-stitched this on.
593
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:09,320
This is a secret,
594
00:28:09,320 --> 00:28:10,920
to hide the fact
595
00:28:10,920 --> 00:28:14,200
that I need to be able to get it onto the mannequin...
596
00:28:14,200 --> 00:28:15,640
I've not only used all of the trim,
597
00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:19,480
I was scraping to get the final bits for my cuffs.
598
00:28:19,480 --> 00:28:22,120
Got a bit of a big bum, this model...
599
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:24,840
SIX minutes!
600
00:28:24,840 --> 00:28:26,080
Oh, shush, Claudia!
601
00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:32,040
Exactly what I was hoping for, puffy at the ankle...
602
00:28:33,280 --> 00:28:35,640
Ooh, I like that bit, I might have that on it.
603
00:28:35,640 --> 00:28:38,880
The panel obviously isn't an ideal thing to add in...
604
00:28:38,880 --> 00:28:41,680
Spotted on the little top that came with it,
605
00:28:41,680 --> 00:28:44,680
so I'm going to just hand-sew them on the front of there.
606
00:28:44,680 --> 00:28:47,400
Josh is the only person who's made TWO pieces.
607
00:28:47,400 --> 00:28:48,600
Good for Josh.
608
00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:51,040
Can't even thread the needle at the moment.
609
00:28:51,040 --> 00:28:53,320
One minute.
610
00:28:53,320 --> 00:28:57,560
There won't be a fastening on the back, because we haven't got time.
611
00:28:57,560 --> 00:29:00,440
I just think stitching is probably better than a pin in the back.
612
00:29:01,400 --> 00:29:03,080
Come on!
613
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:06,200
- You'd wear that on the beach, wouldn't you?
- Course I would!
614
00:29:09,560 --> 00:29:11,880
- Time's up!
- That's it.
615
00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:14,400
Well done, everybody.
616
00:29:14,400 --> 00:29:17,560
All right, come on, guys. To the front, jiggle them around...
617
00:29:19,320 --> 00:29:21,200
Well done, love.
618
00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:23,160
Seven saris totally transformed -
619
00:29:23,160 --> 00:29:26,320
but what will the judges make of the sewers' attempts
620
00:29:26,320 --> 00:29:28,520
at Eastern-inspired alterations?
621
00:29:28,520 --> 00:29:31,120
MUSIC: Sweet Song Of India by The McGuire Sisters
622
00:29:33,400 --> 00:29:37,520
- Wow.
- I'm absolutely delighted, these are genuinely fantastic.
- Yeah.
623
00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:39,440
They fill the brief, hey?
624
00:29:39,440 --> 00:29:41,800
MUSIC: I Am The Walrus by Lord Sitar
625
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:45,960
I think this looks great.
626
00:29:45,960 --> 00:29:48,360
- It's very clearly Eastern in its inspiration.
- Yes.
627
00:29:48,360 --> 00:29:50,240
It's got a lovely shape to it.
628
00:29:50,240 --> 00:29:53,080
Fantastic use of the border here...
629
00:29:53,080 --> 00:29:55,520
and here, and on the bottom.
630
00:29:55,520 --> 00:29:58,240
- And we've got this little detail here.
- This is lovely.
631
00:29:58,240 --> 00:30:01,560
- It's great!
- I love this detail.
- I mean, really well thought out.
632
00:30:06,840 --> 00:30:09,160
- We have some harem pants.
- Yeah. I love these.
633
00:30:09,160 --> 00:30:12,080
I'd love to wear...something very similar!
634
00:30:13,440 --> 00:30:15,600
- Right!
- Possibly even these ones in a quiet moment.
635
00:30:15,600 --> 00:30:18,400
Trousers are such a beautiful, full shape.
636
00:30:18,400 --> 00:30:21,160
And they've made a channel for the elastic to go in.
637
00:30:21,160 --> 00:30:22,880
The gathers are very even...
638
00:30:22,880 --> 00:30:26,160
I mean, these trousers just look absolutely spot on.
639
00:30:26,160 --> 00:30:27,480
I love 'em.
640
00:30:36,920 --> 00:30:38,800
- That's a kimono shape...
- Yeah.
641
00:30:38,800 --> 00:30:40,280
..but they've cut it all in one.
642
00:30:40,280 --> 00:30:42,560
- So we've only got one seam here...
- Yeah.
643
00:30:42,560 --> 00:30:43,720
Simple shapes.
644
00:30:43,720 --> 00:30:45,240
They've thought about
645
00:30:45,240 --> 00:30:46,920
how they've used the borders...
646
00:30:46,920 --> 00:30:50,520
Can you see we've got a V here and we've got a V here, as well?
647
00:30:50,520 --> 00:30:53,200
- Yeah.
- So that's been really...
648
00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:56,920
- well thought about.
- Is that the same both sides?
- No.
- No.
649
00:30:56,920 --> 00:30:59,480
Something's happened here where they've seamed the border
650
00:30:59,480 --> 00:31:02,920
and they've seamed it here, so obviously it wasn't long enough.
651
00:31:02,920 --> 00:31:04,960
They've run out of border, perhaps.
652
00:31:13,680 --> 00:31:16,000
So, again, we've got a drawstring trouser.
653
00:31:16,000 --> 00:31:18,040
This one not QUITE so good.
654
00:31:18,040 --> 00:31:22,320
And this person's used their top, and they've lengthened it...
655
00:31:22,320 --> 00:31:24,720
They've given us a lot in a very short space of time -
656
00:31:24,720 --> 00:31:27,880
I just think it's not quite as neat and tidy as some of the others...
657
00:31:27,880 --> 00:31:30,960
and it is just too small on the trousers.
658
00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:38,600
We've got elastic here...
659
00:31:38,600 --> 00:31:41,160
So they've done the same with the border.
660
00:31:41,160 --> 00:31:43,560
It's a bit snug around the seat.
661
00:31:43,560 --> 00:31:45,400
Oh... Hang on a minute.
662
00:31:45,400 --> 00:31:46,840
What's happened here?
663
00:31:46,840 --> 00:31:48,960
Well, obviously it was MUCH too small
664
00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:50,800
and they've had to insert a panel...?
665
00:31:50,800 --> 00:31:52,640
Maybe there wasn't enough material.
666
00:31:52,640 --> 00:31:54,720
If they'd inserted a panel on the other side
667
00:31:54,720 --> 00:31:56,240
we could have said it was jodhpurs.
668
00:32:02,920 --> 00:32:04,440
It's got a really nice shape to it,
669
00:32:04,440 --> 00:32:06,520
- all of these panels work extremely well...
- Yes.
670
00:32:06,520 --> 00:32:09,360
I just feel that this is a little heavy.
671
00:32:09,360 --> 00:32:11,080
I quite like it.
672
00:32:11,080 --> 00:32:13,560
That's cos you're almost wearing it!
673
00:32:13,560 --> 00:32:15,280
Here's MY version.
674
00:32:15,280 --> 00:32:17,640
They obviously got inspired by me.
675
00:32:17,640 --> 00:32:20,680
Funnily enough, now I think about it...
676
00:32:20,680 --> 00:32:23,040
I like it, I think it gives it an accent.
677
00:32:23,040 --> 00:32:25,200
- It's pretty, isn't it?
- It is.
- The whole thing is...
678
00:32:25,200 --> 00:32:27,040
I think the whole thing works.
679
00:32:33,080 --> 00:32:37,240
Our second pair of very full harem-style pants.
680
00:32:37,240 --> 00:32:39,800
Which, again, I think are really pretty successful,
681
00:32:39,800 --> 00:32:41,840
I think the shape is fantastic on them.
682
00:32:41,840 --> 00:32:44,800
- They're very, very long, actually.
- They're very long.
683
00:32:44,800 --> 00:32:48,280
- Can we get in?
- No... Or is it just a band?
684
00:32:48,280 --> 00:32:52,760
It's almost like it's been sewn onto the stand. I think it has.
685
00:32:52,760 --> 00:32:55,920
- That is a drawback. Definitely.
- Definitely!
686
00:32:55,920 --> 00:32:58,560
It's a stunning effect - but how do we get in?
687
00:33:00,640 --> 00:33:03,680
The judges will now rank the altered saris,
688
00:33:03,680 --> 00:33:06,440
starting with the least successful.
689
00:33:06,440 --> 00:33:09,040
Number seven, pink trousers.
690
00:33:09,040 --> 00:33:10,800
Oh, that's me.
691
00:33:10,800 --> 00:33:14,080
- The reason for this is they don't fit very well.
- Mm.
692
00:33:14,080 --> 00:33:18,520
Sixth place, the turquoise harem pant.
693
00:33:18,520 --> 00:33:22,600
Joyce. They're a beautiful shape, they absolutely fulfil the brief -
694
00:33:22,600 --> 00:33:23,760
you just can't put 'em on.
695
00:33:23,760 --> 00:33:25,760
In fifth place is Josh...
696
00:33:25,760 --> 00:33:27,360
Angeline is fourth,
697
00:33:27,360 --> 00:33:29,680
and Rumana is third.
698
00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:31,480
In second place...
699
00:33:33,720 --> 00:33:36,400
..is the purple pants.
700
00:33:36,400 --> 00:33:37,840
Charlotte.
701
00:33:37,840 --> 00:33:40,560
- I want to see you wearing them!
- Absolutely. I love them.
702
00:33:40,560 --> 00:33:44,680
You've grabbed this brief, you've used every bit to perfection...
703
00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:46,680
- Thanks.
- Well done.
- Thank you.
704
00:33:46,680 --> 00:33:48,560
In first place...
705
00:33:48,560 --> 00:33:50,280
is this, which is fabulous.
706
00:33:50,280 --> 00:33:52,160
Yay!
707
00:33:52,160 --> 00:33:55,200
Tracey! For the second time today...
708
00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:57,400
- A double first.
- A double first.
709
00:33:57,400 --> 00:33:59,160
I think I'm getting the hang of this now!
710
00:34:00,920 --> 00:34:04,600
You've used the elements of the sari really nicely.
711
00:34:04,600 --> 00:34:05,680
Thank you.
712
00:34:05,680 --> 00:34:09,000
An enormous well done to all of you.
713
00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:11,400
Go home, eat something international,
714
00:34:11,400 --> 00:34:13,800
and we will see you back here tomorrow
715
00:34:13,800 --> 00:34:16,440
for the big Made-to-measure Challenge.
716
00:34:16,440 --> 00:34:17,840
Off you go.
717
00:34:17,840 --> 00:34:19,240
What a day!
718
00:34:19,240 --> 00:34:22,080
- Yeah, what a day.
- Hey, superstar.
719
00:34:22,080 --> 00:34:26,000
To actually get two firsts is really more than I expected.
720
00:34:26,000 --> 00:34:28,160
Seriously, can I have yours?! Can I have it?
721
00:34:28,160 --> 00:34:29,960
SHE LAUGHS
722
00:34:29,960 --> 00:34:31,320
In terms of the first day
723
00:34:31,320 --> 00:34:33,880
this has definitely been my most successful -
724
00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:36,360
in fact you could probably say this has been
725
00:34:36,360 --> 00:34:38,400
my only successful first day!
726
00:34:38,400 --> 00:34:41,320
But I don't feel safe, in the slightest.
727
00:34:41,320 --> 00:34:43,480
- Well done.
- That's good.
728
00:34:43,480 --> 00:34:47,120
Coming seventh and then sixth today is not my best day,
729
00:34:47,120 --> 00:34:49,760
and I feel rather despondent.
730
00:34:49,760 --> 00:34:53,520
So I'm going to have a very, very large glass of wine,
731
00:34:53,520 --> 00:34:56,680
and something to eat and watch a bit of telly.
732
00:35:02,400 --> 00:35:05,680
There's one challenge left in International Week.
733
00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:08,960
In just a few hours, someone will win Garment of the Week.
734
00:35:08,960 --> 00:35:11,840
And somebody else will have to leave the sewing room.
735
00:35:11,840 --> 00:35:14,120
For me there's only one person
736
00:35:14,120 --> 00:35:17,400
who's really stood out this week, and that's Tracey.
737
00:35:17,400 --> 00:35:19,000
Let's talk about Josh.
738
00:35:19,000 --> 00:35:21,240
He did really well on the Chinese top.
739
00:35:21,240 --> 00:35:23,280
He normally waits until the Made-to-measure
740
00:35:23,280 --> 00:35:24,720
before he pulls his finger out.
741
00:35:24,720 --> 00:35:28,680
Joyce, who had a brilliant week last week, almost came bottom in BOTH.
742
00:35:28,680 --> 00:35:31,480
- Is she in trouble?
- She hadn't followed the pattern.
- Yeah.
743
00:35:31,480 --> 00:35:34,560
Jade and Joyce are in the most precarious position.
744
00:35:34,560 --> 00:35:37,760
Unless she has a horrible disaster, Tracey is fine.
745
00:35:37,760 --> 00:35:40,560
But I don't think any of those others are absolutely safe at all.
746
00:35:40,560 --> 00:35:44,000
Everyone's future in the Sewing Bee now rests on their ability
747
00:35:44,000 --> 00:35:46,040
to make an international garment
748
00:35:46,040 --> 00:35:48,720
not to fit a mannequin, but a real person.
749
00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:52,080
- Hiya.
- Hello, darling!
750
00:35:53,520 --> 00:35:55,280
Good morning, sewers!
751
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:57,880
For your Made-to-measure Challenge
752
00:35:57,880 --> 00:36:00,440
the judges would love you to create a dress
753
00:36:00,440 --> 00:36:02,720
that's been inspired by West Africa.
754
00:36:02,720 --> 00:36:06,080
They've asked you to use a wax print fabric.
755
00:36:06,080 --> 00:36:08,920
You have five and a half hours.
756
00:36:08,920 --> 00:36:11,560
Enormous luck - your time starts now.
757
00:36:12,640 --> 00:36:14,760
Whilst the sewers have had a chance to practise
758
00:36:14,760 --> 00:36:16,440
their dresses at home...
759
00:36:16,440 --> 00:36:18,280
(She's getting naked.)
760
00:36:18,280 --> 00:36:20,680
..now they'll have to perfect the fit on their model,
761
00:36:20,680 --> 00:36:23,320
with their chosen West African fabric.
762
00:36:23,320 --> 00:36:26,080
Oh, I do like this fabric, I must confess.
763
00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:30,760
The fabric definitely has a weight to it. It's not too slippery...
764
00:36:30,760 --> 00:36:34,120
and it just feels like it's going to be really nice on the body.
765
00:36:34,120 --> 00:36:37,720
Traditional West African dresses are very, very fitted,
766
00:36:37,720 --> 00:36:41,200
very sculptural, it's all about accentuating the female form,
767
00:36:41,200 --> 00:36:42,960
producing that beautiful hourglass.
768
00:36:42,960 --> 00:36:46,960
But then on top of that you've got structured peplums...
769
00:36:46,960 --> 00:36:49,560
It's exaggerated, these are occasion pieces.
770
00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:51,280
The fabric has a rigidity about it,
771
00:36:51,280 --> 00:36:55,160
which enables you to get a really good shape on the peplum,
772
00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:57,080
and sticking out, and the shoulders -
773
00:36:57,080 --> 00:36:58,400
and it'll keep its shape.
774
00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:01,320
Wax print fabric, often called ankara,
775
00:37:01,320 --> 00:37:03,600
is actually an imitation of batik,
776
00:37:03,600 --> 00:37:05,800
an ancient Indonesian technique
777
00:37:05,800 --> 00:37:10,080
that utilises hot wax and dye to create colourful patterns on cloth.
778
00:37:10,080 --> 00:37:13,480
In 1854 a Dutch textile company found a way to mass-produce
779
00:37:13,480 --> 00:37:17,480
a batik-style fabric, and tried to sell it to customers in Indonesia.
780
00:37:17,480 --> 00:37:20,280
They were less than impressed.
781
00:37:20,280 --> 00:37:23,920
The mechanisation process caused imperfections in the textile.
782
00:37:23,920 --> 00:37:26,440
So you got a kind of crackle effect.
783
00:37:26,440 --> 00:37:29,120
Which made it seem sort of hugely inferior,
784
00:37:29,120 --> 00:37:32,480
so people really did not want to buy this product in Indonesia.
785
00:37:32,480 --> 00:37:35,120
But Dutch traders found a new market.
786
00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:37,440
Ships carrying the fabric to and from Indonesia
787
00:37:37,440 --> 00:37:39,120
were stopping in West Africa
788
00:37:39,120 --> 00:37:41,360
where it was swapped for food and essentials.
789
00:37:41,360 --> 00:37:44,480
BECAUSE of its imperfections the locals fell in love with wax print,
790
00:37:44,480 --> 00:37:47,800
as each piece was seen as totally unique.
791
00:37:47,800 --> 00:37:51,160
In West Africa, where they were being traded by saleswomen,
792
00:37:51,160 --> 00:37:54,400
these women would give the particular patterns stories,
793
00:37:54,400 --> 00:37:55,840
or give them local names.
794
00:37:55,840 --> 00:37:58,880
So it became really ingrained in the local culture.
795
00:37:58,880 --> 00:38:01,720
The Dutch printers were keen to listen to local saleswomen
796
00:38:01,720 --> 00:38:04,800
about what they wanted in the way of colour and design.
797
00:38:04,800 --> 00:38:08,000
It became much more of a kind of two-way process,
798
00:38:08,000 --> 00:38:11,000
and you would start to see local stories, local myths,
799
00:38:11,000 --> 00:38:13,520
images of things with particular symbolic meaning
800
00:38:13,520 --> 00:38:14,960
becoming part of the pattern.
801
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:19,000
So it really becomes an important communicative fabric.
802
00:38:19,000 --> 00:38:22,920
Wax print is as popular in West African design as it's ever been.
803
00:38:22,920 --> 00:38:26,240
The reason why it's so popular and it's lasted to long
804
00:38:26,240 --> 00:38:28,680
is because it's cotton. Africa's a very hot continent.
805
00:38:28,680 --> 00:38:30,360
So it's very breathable,
806
00:38:30,360 --> 00:38:33,720
and you get so many designs that you don't have to stop on one print.
807
00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:36,160
The stiffness of the fabric
808
00:38:36,160 --> 00:38:38,480
makes it perfect for creating structure,
809
00:38:38,480 --> 00:38:40,440
so you can make things like beautiful bows -
810
00:38:40,440 --> 00:38:42,680
even make crazy head wraps and make them stand.
811
00:38:42,680 --> 00:38:45,160
The fabric sits really well on the body,
812
00:38:45,160 --> 00:38:47,320
especially if it's bespoke and tailor-made
813
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:49,320
to the person's measurements.
814
00:38:49,320 --> 00:38:50,960
But how will OUR sewers cope,
815
00:38:50,960 --> 00:38:53,520
making bespoke dresses with this unique fabric?
816
00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:57,760
I've got the same fabric as Angeline. Which is always a worry!
817
00:38:57,760 --> 00:38:59,520
- Same fabric world.
- I know!
818
00:38:59,520 --> 00:39:03,520
- Crazy.
- Hashtag - awkward.
- And that's before we even met!
819
00:39:03,520 --> 00:39:07,200
Whilst cutting their complex and bold prints...
820
00:39:07,200 --> 00:39:09,880
the sewers need to constantly think ahead...
821
00:39:09,880 --> 00:39:12,440
(One, two, three, four, five...)
822
00:39:12,440 --> 00:39:16,960
..to ensure the pattern will match along the seams of their dress.
823
00:39:16,960 --> 00:39:19,560
Are you thinking about how you're placing your pattern
824
00:39:19,560 --> 00:39:21,480
- on the fabric?
- Yeah, I've cut out the front
825
00:39:21,480 --> 00:39:24,600
- and I've arranged these three up the centre front.
- All right...
826
00:39:24,600 --> 00:39:27,120
I'm kind of focusing on the gold as my elements
827
00:39:27,120 --> 00:39:28,600
that I'm going to balance.
828
00:39:28,600 --> 00:39:31,160
Tracey is making a fitted knee-length dress
829
00:39:31,160 --> 00:39:32,600
with capped sleeves
830
00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:34,440
and a peplum at the waist.
831
00:39:34,440 --> 00:39:36,120
Look, you're matching. Yeah.
832
00:39:36,120 --> 00:39:38,400
I thought I'd have a go with the piece.
833
00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:40,480
Did you? Oh, so that is your trial?
834
00:39:40,480 --> 00:39:42,240
Yeah, this is a piece of ankara fabric.
835
00:39:42,240 --> 00:39:45,400
- Well - we've had a first and a first from you.
- Yeah...
836
00:39:45,400 --> 00:39:47,960
Are we going to get a full house?
837
00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:49,840
Well, hopefully. You never know, do you?
838
00:39:49,840 --> 00:39:54,880
Josh has chosen to make this final challenge just a little bit harder.
839
00:39:54,880 --> 00:39:57,960
I think I might be the only person who's using the same fabric
840
00:39:57,960 --> 00:40:01,160
in two different colours to actually create a different effect.
841
00:40:01,160 --> 00:40:03,480
He's aiming to match his contrasting patterns
842
00:40:03,480 --> 00:40:05,400
all the way through the bodice and skirt
843
00:40:05,400 --> 00:40:07,080
of his full-length fitted dress,
844
00:40:07,080 --> 00:40:09,680
which has a peplum at the hem.
845
00:40:09,680 --> 00:40:12,640
Straight lines are quite easy to pattern-match,
846
00:40:12,640 --> 00:40:15,560
but when you're trying to match a pattern around a curve
847
00:40:15,560 --> 00:40:17,080
that curve in opposite directions
848
00:40:17,080 --> 00:40:19,800
it's then a little bit more confusing!
849
00:40:19,800 --> 00:40:21,280
Right...
850
00:40:21,280 --> 00:40:23,920
If they think they've positioned their pattern correctly...
851
00:40:23,920 --> 00:40:27,040
I'm going to be very careful with the placement of these circles
852
00:40:27,040 --> 00:40:29,120
on the bust.
853
00:40:29,120 --> 00:40:32,320
We want to avoid circle boobs at all costs.
854
00:40:32,320 --> 00:40:34,120
..the sewers' next challenge...
855
00:40:34,120 --> 00:40:36,480
Mm, I'm glad we've got this little trying-on...
856
00:40:36,480 --> 00:40:39,880
..is to ensure their cut pieces will fit their model.
857
00:40:39,880 --> 00:40:41,680
Put your hand down, that one...
858
00:40:41,680 --> 00:40:44,760
This is what you'd call a princess seam dress,
859
00:40:44,760 --> 00:40:48,560
which means the seams go over the bust and down the front.
860
00:40:48,560 --> 00:40:51,640
So that's where all the fitting goes - everything relies on all
861
00:40:51,640 --> 00:40:55,000
the panels intersecting together, because it's in six panels.
862
00:40:55,000 --> 00:40:58,400
So that everything can be adjusted to get it really snug and tight.
863
00:40:59,520 --> 00:41:03,120
- Do you think that feels too loose, there?
- A smidgen.
864
00:41:03,120 --> 00:41:06,560
What I don't want is for it to become too tight for you.
865
00:41:06,560 --> 00:41:08,120
I'm concentrating on the fitting
866
00:41:08,120 --> 00:41:10,520
around the waist and around the sides.
867
00:41:10,520 --> 00:41:11,640
It's hard to fit
868
00:41:11,640 --> 00:41:15,880
because there is very little movement in the actual fabric.
869
00:41:15,880 --> 00:41:18,080
Angeline's tight-fitting bodice
870
00:41:18,080 --> 00:41:19,800
will have an asymmetrical peplum
871
00:41:19,800 --> 00:41:20,880
at the waist,
872
00:41:20,880 --> 00:41:24,720
and her short dress will have a choker in matching fabric.
873
00:41:24,720 --> 00:41:27,880
It's just ensuring that it moves the right way, as well -
874
00:41:27,880 --> 00:41:30,360
it's all about showing off the curves of the body.
875
00:41:30,360 --> 00:41:32,920
Let's pull this in nice and tight,
876
00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:34,560
let's take it in a bit here...
877
00:41:34,560 --> 00:41:38,200
You can't do this anywhere else but on the model.
878
00:41:38,200 --> 00:41:39,680
Joyce is repinning her bodice,
879
00:41:39,680 --> 00:41:42,200
hoping for a perfectly fitting princess seam dress
880
00:41:42,200 --> 00:41:43,760
with cap sleeves
881
00:41:43,760 --> 00:41:46,640
in a partial waist peplum.
882
00:41:46,640 --> 00:41:49,200
- Can we ask you something?
- Oh, go on, then.
883
00:41:49,200 --> 00:41:51,320
Are you following instructions?
884
00:41:51,320 --> 00:41:53,960
Absolutely. I'm a changed woman today.
885
00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:56,360
- Fantastic.
- I'm biddable...
886
00:41:56,360 --> 00:41:58,920
Biddable?! I can't imagine you ever being biddable.
887
00:42:00,480 --> 00:42:04,000
- You ask me to do anything, Patrick, and I'll do it.
- Right. Fine.
888
00:42:04,000 --> 00:42:06,520
- I'd like you to make this dress beautifully.
- I will.
889
00:42:06,520 --> 00:42:08,840
MUSIC: Pata Pata by Miriam Makeba
890
00:42:10,680 --> 00:42:12,440
And give me a spin...
891
00:42:12,440 --> 00:42:15,680
While most of the sewers are fitting using their final fabric...
892
00:42:15,680 --> 00:42:17,640
I think...we'll be fine.
893
00:42:17,640 --> 00:42:19,360
That's so much better.
894
00:42:19,360 --> 00:42:21,880
..after struggling in the first two challenges...
895
00:42:21,880 --> 00:42:25,520
You want the fitting to just look absolutely stunning.
896
00:42:25,520 --> 00:42:28,200
..Jade is now taking extra precautions.
897
00:42:28,200 --> 00:42:29,880
Are you fitting with the lining?
898
00:42:29,880 --> 00:42:33,120
I'm going to fit with the lining in case it needs taking in,
899
00:42:33,120 --> 00:42:36,600
because if I cut it out in the actual fabric and it needs taking in
900
00:42:36,600 --> 00:42:38,400
then the pattern match won't match.
901
00:42:38,400 --> 00:42:40,520
Jade's fully lined knee-length dress
902
00:42:40,520 --> 00:42:42,040
will be boned at the bodice
903
00:42:42,040 --> 00:42:45,160
and have a waterfall pleated peplum.
904
00:42:45,160 --> 00:42:48,720
So this is one continuous piece going all the way round, or...?
905
00:42:48,720 --> 00:42:51,800
- Well, I've actually cut it out in the lining...
- Let's have a look.
906
00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:54,760
So that one, obviously, is at the front,
907
00:42:54,760 --> 00:42:56,360
but it's got the pleats in,
908
00:42:56,360 --> 00:42:58,280
- so it will be more gathered.
- Yeah.
909
00:42:58,280 --> 00:43:02,760
And then you attach the fuller one on to it, which then obviously...
910
00:43:02,760 --> 00:43:04,880
- Cascades.
- ..goes down your bum.
911
00:43:04,880 --> 00:43:08,360
Fitting a peplum to a standard dress is hard enough...
912
00:43:08,360 --> 00:43:11,160
So, basically, that will go like so.
913
00:43:11,160 --> 00:43:14,320
Because that's curved and this is straight, as you fit it,
914
00:43:14,320 --> 00:43:15,560
it will make it stick out.
915
00:43:15,560 --> 00:43:17,400
Can you see? It's, like, filling a bit?
916
00:43:17,400 --> 00:43:19,240
But with a bold pattern...
917
00:43:19,240 --> 00:43:22,320
I'm just attaching the peplum to the bodice.
918
00:43:22,320 --> 00:43:23,440
..it's even harder.
919
00:43:23,440 --> 00:43:26,160
I'm not finding it terribly easy to pattern match.
920
00:43:26,160 --> 00:43:30,560
Because I'm quite fussy, I like to get it right,
921
00:43:30,560 --> 00:43:35,320
but, um, sometimes perfection just takes so much time.
922
00:43:35,320 --> 00:43:39,240
- Josh? How are you feeling?
- Ask me again when I'm on the skirt.
923
00:43:39,240 --> 00:43:43,240
- Have you not started the skirt?
- It won't take me too long.
924
00:43:44,360 --> 00:43:47,360
My dress isn't going to have a peplum. It's going to have a ruffle.
925
00:43:47,360 --> 00:43:50,000
All of this fabric... which is quite long,
926
00:43:50,000 --> 00:43:52,600
is going to be gathered around the waste.
927
00:43:52,600 --> 00:43:54,240
Charlotte's gathered ruffle
928
00:43:54,240 --> 00:43:56,320
will flow from a fitted bodice
929
00:43:56,320 --> 00:43:57,800
into a pencil skirt.
930
00:43:57,800 --> 00:44:01,080
- How is it?
- Good! I'm really pleased with it.
- Lots and lots of gathering.
931
00:44:01,080 --> 00:44:03,640
- Oh, a boatload of gathering.
- You're making a curtain.
932
00:44:03,640 --> 00:44:06,960
Tell me again why you chose to do this as a gathered rectangle,
933
00:44:06,960 --> 00:44:08,440
rather than a gathered...
934
00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,640
I wanted a lot of volume, a really, really huge amount.
935
00:44:11,640 --> 00:44:13,760
- You're getting lots of volume here.
- Yes.
936
00:44:13,760 --> 00:44:16,680
But not necessarily any more volume at the end.
937
00:44:16,680 --> 00:44:19,560
It hopefully will sit nicely once it's finished.
938
00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:21,400
It's sort of hard to tell at the moment.
939
00:44:21,400 --> 00:44:23,000
It's going to be great, I'm sure.
940
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,360
- I'm glad we had a chair.
- Somehow you can say that...
941
00:44:25,360 --> 00:44:28,040
- and still make me terrified.
- I don't know why.
942
00:44:28,040 --> 00:44:32,120
- Something...
- It's something about the way you say it, I think.
943
00:44:32,120 --> 00:44:34,680
Just imagine I've said it differently.
944
00:44:36,280 --> 00:44:39,640
- (He hates the ruffle.)
- Really?
- I can't do anything else.
945
00:44:39,640 --> 00:44:41,200
I can't change my plan now.
946
00:44:41,200 --> 00:44:43,360
I couldn't go and draft a peplum and stick that on.
947
00:44:43,360 --> 00:44:45,160
I'm halfway through sticking this on.
948
00:44:45,160 --> 00:44:48,560
Rumana has also committed to something a little different.
949
00:44:48,560 --> 00:44:50,720
They're probably going to get a lot of peplums,
950
00:44:50,720 --> 00:44:52,520
so I've actually not gone for that.
951
00:44:52,520 --> 00:44:56,280
Instead, I've gone for a cape to go with the dress.
952
00:44:56,280 --> 00:44:58,440
Rumana's cape will be double layered
953
00:44:58,440 --> 00:45:00,000
and split down the middle.
954
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:01,920
It'll cover her full-length,
955
00:45:01,920 --> 00:45:03,360
fitted sheath dress.
956
00:45:03,360 --> 00:45:05,040
My cape's big. It's structured.
957
00:45:05,040 --> 00:45:08,520
I think using a double layer has given a bit more body to it.
958
00:45:08,520 --> 00:45:10,000
So far, so happy.
959
00:45:10,000 --> 00:45:12,280
How much time do we have?
960
00:45:12,280 --> 00:45:13,600
One hour left!
961
00:45:14,640 --> 00:45:18,480
I'm just trying to work out the best way to attach a peplum
962
00:45:18,480 --> 00:45:21,200
that's actually in four different sections.
963
00:45:21,200 --> 00:45:23,520
It's not quite as easy as just, you know,
964
00:45:23,520 --> 00:45:25,880
putting a peplum on the bottom of a dress,
965
00:45:25,880 --> 00:45:29,160
because I need each four sections to match up perfectly.
966
00:45:31,320 --> 00:45:34,400
I mean, at this point it looks like most of them are going to finish.
967
00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:35,720
I'll check that it fits you.
968
00:45:35,720 --> 00:45:38,640
Really, this challenges boils down to how well they've fitted them.
969
00:45:38,640 --> 00:45:40,400
- Yes.
- Not just how well they've sewn them.
970
00:45:40,400 --> 00:45:42,360
It's not something I'm used to doing.
971
00:45:42,360 --> 00:45:45,240
I don't tend to make things very fitted for myself.
972
00:45:45,240 --> 00:45:47,800
Some people are quite crooked.
973
00:45:47,800 --> 00:45:50,240
Well, most people have one shoulder higher than the other
974
00:45:50,240 --> 00:45:52,000
and one bosom bigger than the other.
975
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:55,240
- Is that right?
- That is right, yes.
- I wouldn't know anything about that.
976
00:45:55,240 --> 00:45:57,200
No, of course you wouldn't.
977
00:45:57,200 --> 00:45:59,200
So let me check I've got it level.
978
00:45:59,200 --> 00:46:02,160
I'll take a little bit off the front. That might make a difference.
979
00:46:02,160 --> 00:46:04,800
This peplum can come up a bit more, you know.
980
00:46:04,800 --> 00:46:08,200
I managed to take it in a little bit on one of the seams,
981
00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:11,640
which has given me a little bit more snugness around the waist.
982
00:46:11,640 --> 00:46:13,760
It's better than it was.
983
00:46:13,760 --> 00:46:15,640
With the skirt attached to it,
984
00:46:15,640 --> 00:46:17,520
I need to bring it up a fraction more
985
00:46:17,520 --> 00:46:19,200
to fit as I would like it to fit.
986
00:46:20,400 --> 00:46:21,680
OK, so that's fine...
987
00:46:21,680 --> 00:46:24,760
As they make changes, hoping to achieve a perfect fit...
988
00:46:24,760 --> 00:46:28,160
Stop, stop, stop. Yep. A bit more.
989
00:46:28,160 --> 00:46:30,520
..the sewers still need to ensure their patterns
990
00:46:30,520 --> 00:46:33,560
match across the seams they're adjusting.
991
00:46:33,560 --> 00:46:35,320
Moment of truth.
992
00:46:35,320 --> 00:46:37,600
I'm hoping that the judges will pick up on the fact
993
00:46:37,600 --> 00:46:40,280
that I've tried to match all the way across,
994
00:46:40,280 --> 00:46:43,080
regardless of whether it's on a curve or not.
995
00:46:43,080 --> 00:46:48,720
Look at that, right there. The lines practically match.
996
00:46:48,720 --> 00:46:50,520
Across there.
997
00:46:50,520 --> 00:46:52,880
Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.
998
00:46:57,440 --> 00:47:00,200
Back's collapsing. I would have a look at it.
999
00:47:03,000 --> 00:47:05,600
My cape is done. I'm just pressing it.
1000
00:47:05,600 --> 00:47:08,520
I'm going to attach some straps to my dress.
1001
00:47:08,520 --> 00:47:11,040
Patrick noticed there was a bit of fullness in the back.
1002
00:47:11,040 --> 00:47:12,480
Put it on me.
1003
00:47:14,320 --> 00:47:16,360
- That is beautiful!
- Do you think?
1004
00:47:17,800 --> 00:47:21,280
- I need to do the back.
- I feel like a superhero.
1005
00:47:21,280 --> 00:47:23,640
Josh, how are you?
1006
00:47:23,640 --> 00:47:26,720
- I'm all right, yeah, how are you?
- Yeah, it's working.
1007
00:47:26,720 --> 00:47:29,240
See if it removes the fullness.
1008
00:47:29,240 --> 00:47:30,600
That feel OK?
1009
00:47:31,720 --> 00:47:34,400
You have four minutes left, everybody.
1010
00:47:34,400 --> 00:47:36,760
Every time, down to the last seconds.
1011
00:47:39,760 --> 00:47:41,520
Hello, gathered bottom.
1012
00:47:41,520 --> 00:47:42,760
Oh, my hook's not staying.
1013
00:47:42,760 --> 00:47:45,360
Do you want to come over here? Quick, quick, quick.
1014
00:47:45,360 --> 00:47:47,520
Fits her, stunningly.
1015
00:47:52,800 --> 00:47:53,960
So happy.
1016
00:47:53,960 --> 00:47:57,960
Today was just literally to prove myself to the judges.
1017
00:47:57,960 --> 00:48:00,600
Come out, come out. Ha! Ha-ha!
1018
00:48:00,600 --> 00:48:04,320
I love it. I am so happy with the fit. Turn around, turn around.
1019
00:48:04,320 --> 00:48:06,000
One minute, sewers!
1020
00:48:07,280 --> 00:48:08,320
On your arm.
1021
00:48:10,440 --> 00:48:12,640
You look amazing!
1022
00:48:12,640 --> 00:48:14,120
I think the ruffle is excellent
1023
00:48:14,120 --> 00:48:16,200
and I don't care if Patrick doesn't like it.
1024
00:48:16,200 --> 00:48:18,320
Let me know if you need me to zip you up.
1025
00:48:21,520 --> 00:48:24,040
Oh, you look gorgeous!
1026
00:48:24,040 --> 00:48:27,280
OK, sewers, that is the end of the challenge.
1027
00:48:28,440 --> 00:48:30,680
You have to walk away from Angeline.
1028
00:48:30,680 --> 00:48:32,440
Blimey.
1029
00:48:32,440 --> 00:48:36,400
Finished! Finished! I have finished!
1030
00:48:36,400 --> 00:48:38,920
- I did it! Oh, my God.
- Are you so happy?
1031
00:48:38,920 --> 00:48:42,680
MUSIC: Nylon Dress by Steven Amechi and his Empire Rhythm Skies
1032
00:48:53,920 --> 00:48:58,040
The overall impression I'm getting is that it doesn't fit very well.
1033
00:48:58,040 --> 00:49:00,360
And also...quite baggy here.
1034
00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:04,960
- I agree with Esme. I can take in six inches around the waist...
- Yeah.
1035
00:49:04,960 --> 00:49:06,840
..without it being really close.
1036
00:49:07,880 --> 00:49:12,000
- You've lined your peplum.
- It's very crisp and even around the hem.
1037
00:49:12,000 --> 00:49:13,880
There's a lot of good, crisp stuff.
1038
00:49:13,880 --> 00:49:17,280
I think it's just the fitting really lets it down.
1039
00:49:26,600 --> 00:49:30,040
- Well, I think yours does have a wow factor, don't you?
- Yes.
1040
00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:32,320
- THEY LAUGH
- I love your nervous face!
1041
00:49:32,320 --> 00:49:35,200
What really works well is the scale of the peplum
1042
00:49:35,200 --> 00:49:36,640
compared to the skirt.
1043
00:49:36,640 --> 00:49:38,240
You're the only person with a peplum
1044
00:49:38,240 --> 00:49:40,680
- that's longer than the skirt underneath it.
- Exactly.
1045
00:49:40,680 --> 00:49:43,560
And because you've lined it, we can see absolutely all of that
1046
00:49:43,560 --> 00:49:46,440
movement in the peplum, which is really impactful.
1047
00:49:46,440 --> 00:49:50,640
- But the one thing is, you've hoiked it up with the straps...
- Yeah.
1048
00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,600
..so it's not falling down,
1049
00:49:52,600 --> 00:49:55,800
but actually it's still too long in the body.
1050
00:49:55,800 --> 00:49:58,840
But I think the choker brings the whole thing together.
1051
00:49:58,840 --> 00:50:00,600
It has definitely got impact.
1052
00:50:09,520 --> 00:50:11,960
- It has terrific impact.
- Yes.
1053
00:50:11,960 --> 00:50:14,640
You've thought about the motif very carefully,
1054
00:50:14,640 --> 00:50:18,680
but it's just a little bulky round the tummy.
1055
00:50:18,680 --> 00:50:22,080
There's just too much of it in the middle. Do you agree or disagree?
1056
00:50:22,080 --> 00:50:27,000
Um, I'm actually more concerned about the darts. They're quite high.
1057
00:50:27,000 --> 00:50:32,480
- Oh, really?
- That is gaping, there. And this side's not fitting great.
1058
00:50:32,480 --> 00:50:35,760
- Can we have a look at the zip?
- So you've matched that there.
- No.
1059
00:50:35,760 --> 00:50:38,040
- Slightly off.
- Fractionally, fractionally off.
1060
00:50:38,040 --> 00:50:40,320
It's a shame because that bit's perfect.
1061
00:50:40,320 --> 00:50:42,200
- THEY LAUGH
- Yeah, it is!
1062
00:50:52,160 --> 00:50:54,480
- I think I like it.
- Yes.
1063
00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:56,600
- It's quite dramatic, isn't it?
- It is, isn't it?
1064
00:50:56,600 --> 00:51:02,160
No peplums, no ruffles, no trains, but there's drama.
1065
00:51:02,160 --> 00:51:06,200
I don't actually understand why you didn't just sew this up.
1066
00:51:06,200 --> 00:51:09,160
- Because you could have put this over the head.
- That's true.
1067
00:51:09,160 --> 00:51:11,880
It does have a really nice hourglass shape to it.
1068
00:51:11,880 --> 00:51:14,320
Actually, the dress itself is very flattering.
1069
00:51:14,320 --> 00:51:18,280
- There's quite a saucy bit on this.
- Yes.
- Which is here.
1070
00:51:18,280 --> 00:51:23,000
- Yes.
- So you see a tiny bit of bosom.
- I like it.
1071
00:51:23,000 --> 00:51:25,640
- I do.
- Why are you so shocked at liking my sewing?!
1072
00:51:25,640 --> 00:51:28,680
Well, I don't know - cos I've never seen anything quite like it before.
1073
00:51:28,680 --> 00:51:30,920
It's like something from another planet.
1074
00:51:30,920 --> 00:51:32,600
Never mind another country.
1075
00:51:32,600 --> 00:51:34,960
- But I think it works.
- It does indeed.
1076
00:51:34,960 --> 00:51:39,200
MUSIC: Fire Fire Fire by Ebenezer Calender & His Maringer Band
1077
00:51:44,000 --> 00:51:47,800
I think the overall impression of the dress is very stunning.
1078
00:51:47,800 --> 00:51:51,320
- The peplum's great.
- Thank you.
1079
00:51:51,320 --> 00:51:54,760
Definitely has a wow factor, but it's a little bit too tight.
1080
00:51:55,920 --> 00:51:58,840
- Can you see how it's pulling over here?
- Yeah.
1081
00:51:58,840 --> 00:52:01,880
I also think it's a bit too low here.
1082
00:52:01,880 --> 00:52:03,440
You did match it at the front.
1083
00:52:03,440 --> 00:52:07,360
- I did, yeah.
- Give you credit for doing that.
- Thank you.
1084
00:52:07,360 --> 00:52:11,360
I think, overall, it's crisply finished, the straps are neat.
1085
00:52:11,360 --> 00:52:15,480
- I just think it's a little bit snug here and it's a bit low here.
- OK.
1086
00:52:25,080 --> 00:52:27,760
Your pattern is jarring.
1087
00:52:27,760 --> 00:52:29,920
We've got a triangle then we've just got a smidge,
1088
00:52:29,920 --> 00:52:32,760
then we've got half a smidge, then almost a whole triangle.
1089
00:52:32,760 --> 00:52:35,440
You've run it really nicely down the centre,
1090
00:52:35,440 --> 00:52:38,160
but by the side of it is actually a white triangle,
1091
00:52:38,160 --> 00:52:40,440
whereas this is a black triangle.
1092
00:52:40,440 --> 00:52:44,800
- I feel it's a bit long in the back. Can you see this?
- Yeah.
1093
00:52:44,800 --> 00:52:50,520
It's quite lumpy here. There's one other thing. It's got a real curve.
1094
00:52:50,520 --> 00:52:54,280
Turn round. And I think this side might be worse. Yes.
1095
00:52:54,280 --> 00:52:57,320
- Something's gone wrong over the hip.
- Can you see?
- Yeah.
1096
00:52:57,320 --> 00:53:01,120
It's got a curve here, so it's almost like you took it in here,
1097
00:53:01,120 --> 00:53:03,920
but you didn't take it far enough down.
1098
00:53:03,920 --> 00:53:09,600
Instead of going in, out, in, out, it goes in, out, lump, in, out.
1099
00:53:09,600 --> 00:53:13,560
Which is really obvious. It's a real shame, actually.
1100
00:53:24,320 --> 00:53:28,280
- It's very crisp, very neat.
- It looks really well fitted.
1101
00:53:29,760 --> 00:53:33,040
This is all flat here. It's nice on the waist.
1102
00:53:33,040 --> 00:53:35,280
The seams look lovely and flat.
1103
00:53:35,280 --> 00:53:38,920
I think the fit, you've got that lovely hourglass shape to it.
1104
00:53:38,920 --> 00:53:41,080
- It's not too tight.
- No.
1105
00:53:41,080 --> 00:53:44,800
I also like the lining you did.
1106
00:53:44,800 --> 00:53:47,040
I wish there had been more of it...
1107
00:53:47,040 --> 00:53:49,600
- Sorry.
- ..so we had a bit more va-voom there.
1108
00:53:49,600 --> 00:53:52,000
I think, overall, the whole thing works extremely well.
1109
00:53:52,000 --> 00:53:53,320
Oh, thank you so much.
1110
00:53:55,800 --> 00:53:57,840
Well done to all of you.
1111
00:53:57,840 --> 00:54:01,080
International Week, by far my favourite.
1112
00:54:01,080 --> 00:54:04,000
Go and have a bun and a group hug.
1113
00:54:04,000 --> 00:54:06,920
When you come back, the judges will announce the Garment Of The Week
1114
00:54:06,920 --> 00:54:10,080
and the person who will be leaving the Sewing Room.
1115
00:54:14,400 --> 00:54:17,080
I've never sewn with an African wax print before.
1116
00:54:17,080 --> 00:54:20,160
Love the fabric and really enjoyed making it.
1117
00:54:20,160 --> 00:54:22,680
I think the judges will have a really tough decision today,
1118
00:54:22,680 --> 00:54:24,720
cos there are a few people had a bad day yesterday
1119
00:54:24,720 --> 00:54:26,080
but they've done better today.
1120
00:54:26,080 --> 00:54:27,320
I'm not ready to go home.
1121
00:54:27,320 --> 00:54:29,920
I want to stay here and keep fighting and learning.
1122
00:54:29,920 --> 00:54:32,840
Sometimes you want to just be, like, "You know what? Stuff it."
1123
00:54:32,840 --> 00:54:34,760
Chuck the whole thing and just walk out.
1124
00:54:34,760 --> 00:54:37,280
But I don't want to go home yet.
1125
00:54:37,280 --> 00:54:40,720
Can we just remind ourselves of the beginning of the day?
1126
00:54:40,720 --> 00:54:43,600
The people in the bottom were Jade and Joyce.
1127
00:54:43,600 --> 00:54:46,920
Joyce's dress is in contention for Garment Of The Week,
1128
00:54:46,920 --> 00:54:49,520
so I think Joyce has pulled herself right out
1129
00:54:49,520 --> 00:54:52,000
of all discussion on leaving the Sewing Bee.
1130
00:54:52,000 --> 00:54:53,280
- In a nutshell...
- Yes.
1131
00:54:53,280 --> 00:54:56,400
..it boils down to a decision between Josh and Jade.
1132
00:54:56,400 --> 00:54:58,400
Josh did have a good first day,
1133
00:54:58,400 --> 00:55:01,800
- but this wasn't a successful Made-to-measure Challenge.
- No.
1134
00:55:01,800 --> 00:55:02,880
It really wasn't.
1135
00:55:02,880 --> 00:55:05,080
It's really badly made, I have to say.
1136
00:55:05,080 --> 00:55:10,280
You know, this lump here, on the side, look, that is bad, bad sewing.
1137
00:55:10,280 --> 00:55:12,840
Jade, by contrast, had a poor first day,
1138
00:55:12,840 --> 00:55:16,560
but I think this was one of our better Made-to-measure Challenges.
1139
00:55:16,560 --> 00:55:19,680
The peplum's fabulous, but it wasn't lined,
1140
00:55:19,680 --> 00:55:21,800
which would have emphasised that.
1141
00:55:21,800 --> 00:55:25,600
I think you might have a genuinely impossible task.
1142
00:55:25,600 --> 00:55:29,000
- I don't think it's a straightforward one, at all.
- OK.
1143
00:55:29,000 --> 00:55:31,880
Well, we'll leave you to it and we'll bring them in.
1144
00:55:36,880 --> 00:55:42,080
A huge well done to all of you. Look at you, holding hands, a bit wobbly.
1145
00:55:42,080 --> 00:55:44,600
Let's not do the bad bit, let's do the good bit.
1146
00:55:44,600 --> 00:55:47,840
So, our Garment Of The Week this week...
1147
00:55:47,840 --> 00:55:50,200
is...this one.
1148
00:55:54,160 --> 00:55:57,280
The infuriating Joyce! I mean, it's beautiful.
1149
00:55:57,280 --> 00:56:01,000
It's crisply sewn, it was a beautiful fit.
1150
00:56:01,000 --> 00:56:05,520
- Oh, thank you so much.
- I've never seen anyone so shocked!
1151
00:56:05,520 --> 00:56:08,080
- Thank you.
- And now the less lovely bit.
1152
00:56:08,080 --> 00:56:10,800
We would like everyone to stay in forever and ever and ever,
1153
00:56:10,800 --> 00:56:14,440
but unfortunately somebody's got to leave the sewing bee
1154
00:56:14,440 --> 00:56:18,360
and the judges took a long time, deliberated, chatted,
1155
00:56:18,360 --> 00:56:22,600
and the person who is leaving is...
1156
00:56:28,640 --> 00:56:32,880
- ..is Josh.
- Oh!
- I'm sorry!
1157
00:56:32,880 --> 00:56:35,840
- Josh!
- I know.
- Oh, Josh, I'm sorry.
1158
00:56:39,240 --> 00:56:43,160
I've learnt so much from everyone and they're all so open to teaching
1159
00:56:43,160 --> 00:56:45,960
and to helping and I think without the help of some of them,
1160
00:56:45,960 --> 00:56:48,680
I probably wouldn't have made it through the first week,
1161
00:56:48,680 --> 00:56:49,840
let alone to week four.
1162
00:56:49,840 --> 00:56:51,840
It's been fantastic having him here,
1163
00:56:51,840 --> 00:56:55,160
and it's great for him to learn all sorts of new things.
1164
00:56:55,160 --> 00:56:57,320
I'm sure, when he leaves,
1165
00:56:57,320 --> 00:57:00,320
he'll be more adventurous in what he makes.
1166
00:57:00,320 --> 00:57:03,960
Well done. Honestly. You've been fantastic. Such a lovely guy.
1167
00:57:03,960 --> 00:57:07,440
He's so enthusiastic. But I think this was just his week.
1168
00:57:07,440 --> 00:57:09,600
I'm so shocked. I honestly thought it was me.
1169
00:57:09,600 --> 00:57:12,640
I think it was a difficult decision to choose between Jade
1170
00:57:12,640 --> 00:57:17,040
and Josh, but Jade's Made-to-measure was really very good.
1171
00:57:17,040 --> 00:57:19,080
I'm so relieved that they didn't say, "Jade",
1172
00:57:19,080 --> 00:57:21,280
that I can prove myself next week
1173
00:57:21,280 --> 00:57:24,240
and I'm going to put absolutely everything I've got into it.
1174
00:57:24,240 --> 00:57:25,480
Good luck, girls, eh?
1175
00:57:26,880 --> 00:57:29,160
I thought I was on the way out today.
1176
00:57:29,160 --> 00:57:31,760
I'll celebrate with my husband Hugh tonight
1177
00:57:31,760 --> 00:57:35,760
and, do you know, I think we've got a bottle of champagne in the house.
1178
00:57:35,760 --> 00:57:38,200
I'm really happy that I've got through, but...
1179
00:57:38,200 --> 00:57:41,080
I absolutely hate that when somebody has to go.
1180
00:57:41,080 --> 00:57:44,520
Coming into the competition, I thought that, you know,
1181
00:57:44,520 --> 00:57:47,960
it's a competition and people are there for one reason,
1182
00:57:47,960 --> 00:57:50,920
but you're really not. You're not.
1183
00:57:50,920 --> 00:57:53,680
Doesn't matter, you know, what stretch of life,
1184
00:57:53,680 --> 00:57:56,240
what your background is, how long you've been sewing for.
1185
00:57:56,240 --> 00:57:58,440
You can learn and you can learn very quickly
1186
00:57:58,440 --> 00:58:01,520
as long as you apply yourself and I hope that I've proved that
1187
00:58:01,520 --> 00:58:04,200
to the judges as well as to people that are watching.
1188
00:58:06,520 --> 00:58:08,000
Next time...
1189
00:58:08,000 --> 00:58:09,280
I'm too young for this.
1190
00:58:09,280 --> 00:58:10,960
..the sewers take a step back...
1191
00:58:10,960 --> 00:58:12,080
Super groovy.
1192
00:58:12,080 --> 00:58:14,000
..into the swinging '60s.
1193
00:58:14,000 --> 00:58:15,920
Sex, drugs and rock and roll.
1194
00:58:15,920 --> 00:58:18,040
They tackle dated machines...
1195
00:58:18,040 --> 00:58:19,720
Oh, this is weird, man.
1196
00:58:19,720 --> 00:58:21,600
..get groovy with PVC...
1197
00:58:21,600 --> 00:58:23,480
I wouldn't wear that stuff if you paid me.
1198
00:58:23,480 --> 00:58:25,240
..and glamorous with vintage patterns.
1199
00:58:25,240 --> 00:58:27,120
- We're birthing.
- We're birthing.
1200
00:58:27,120 --> 00:58:29,120
But who will get Garment Of The Week?
1201
00:58:29,120 --> 00:58:30,160
Magic!
1202
00:58:30,160 --> 00:58:31,720
And who will be the next to leave?
1203
00:58:31,720 --> 00:58:33,680
There's a black hole in the corner of the room,
1204
00:58:33,680 --> 00:58:35,720
- sucking all the time into it.
- I call it Patrick!
93562
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