All language subtitles for Cadillac XT5 - Front Brake Pad Replacement (1080p_30fps_H264-128kbit_AAC).English

good afternoon everyone hope you all are

having a great day so far so today we

are taking a look at a Cadillac xt5 I'm

going to be replacing the brake pads on

this vehicle and if you ever have done a

brake job before uh any sort of brake

pad job this is going to be similar to

others so uh what I also appreciate

about working on larger Vehicles like

this is that there's usually enough

clearance underneath so over here is my

foot

with the sandal that I have these are

actually pretty comfortable sandals um

so there's enough clearance anyway to

get underneath and uh yeah we still need

to jack up the car and uh place it on a

jack stand uh make sure that when we

push the vehicle it's not going to roll

over or anything like that uh if we have

uh chalks to put on the back wheels that

something that we could do as well but

I'm getting a little bit ahead of myself

let's go ahead and get started with this

job uh the first thing that we are going

to be doing is removing these one two 3

4 five six lug nuts and once we do so we

are going to be able to take this wheel

off

and uh the first thing that we're going

to do though is go ahead and jack it up

so let's go ahead and get

started all right just wanted to pause

here for a second and mention that first

before before we inject the car off the

ground which I'm going to get to in a

second we have these lug nuts here which

we actually loosened just a little bit

you see how they're a little bit loose

here and we do this typically while it's

on the ground because on some vehicles

or actually you know at least on the

vehicles that I worked on if you do not

loosen these when the car is already on

the ground then if you try to jack it up

and then loosen these lug nuts the wheel

is just going to spin so that is is

something to keep in mind

also when jacking up a vehicle you do

want it to be resting on one of these

jack stands making sure that the jack

stand that you purchase is going to be

able to retain the weight of the vehicle

so this is resting on the jack stand

over here I have loosened the pressure

on this little valve so that's the jack

stand itself could lower down and apply

all the weights of the vehicle onto that

jack stand right there however I also

tightened this up again and then applied

pressure so that there's an extra level

of support in case that jack stand fails

which is possible it's not very likely

but you know just as an extra little bit

of insurance it's always good to do

something like that and also something

things to keep in mind just making sure

that your setup here is

stable something else that I like to do

is give the vehicle a good

push so like pushing it pretty hard like

this and as long as it stays flat and it

doesn't move around or Shake I guess

depending on how strong you are to make

it move that's uh that's also a good

indicator that your base that you

established here is stable so just a few

things to keep in mind uh let's go ahead

and move on to removing this wheel and

taking a closer look at the caliper

so something else I wanted to mention

here is that we were able to break these

lug nuts free however you may find that

one of the lug nuts might be a little

bit tight to get off that's if the

vehicle is not actually sitting on

anything and if it's floating in the air

uh however or I should say

suspended so something to keep in mind

is that as you are removing these lug

nuts the weight is equally distributed

among them so you're removing pressure

from the top side which will make the

wheel sits lower or higher depending on

where you are applying that pressure so

for example here we can see that there

is no pressure over this top side and

all the pressure is here on the lower

side which makes this difficult to move

so if we just simply push on the wheel

forward like

this and we're going to move

it as you can see I'm applying pressure

here and let's see we're going to be

using our 22 mm so that's over

here and now you can see it's loose so

we're able to loosen it while still

applying pressure here

it comes off just like

that yeah so if you ever find that the

last lug note is a little bit difficult

to remove just understand that as I'm

pushing on this wheel we can see that

it's moving sort of side to side like

this so you need to make sure it sits

evenly while you are removing these lug

NES okay now let's go ahead and remove

this wheel and take a closer look at the

caliper all right so we have just

removed the wheel and just add a little

bit of extra insurance I put the wheel

underneath the car so that we can see

that it's still supported on the jack

stand and on the vehicle Jack

itself however if it were to either of

these where to fail then we still have

that wheel to protect the vehicle from

hitting the ground because replacing a

wheel and a tire is much less expensive

than replacing all of this so that's

just something to keep in mind as we

continue to move

forward so over here we have our rer

assembly we have our caliper here we

have our brake pads which are going to

be on both sides and the way that if

you're unfamiliar with this the way that

uh vehicle slows down if they have uh

brake rotors and this type of brake

assembly is the brake pads apply

friction so know pressure is applied

whenever you press the brakes pressure

is applied into the system which allows

the calipers Pistons to push on these

brake pads on both sides of the rotor

and it's the friction between the rotor

and the brake pads that causes the

vehicle to slow

down so over here let's see if I could

get a good camera angle on this there is

going to be a bolt

right

here that once we remove it this caliper

is going to come up sort of like a

clamshell and it's going to be able to

sit in that upright position where we

will have more access to the existing

brake pads and be able to inspect their

condition and if necessary remove them

and replace them with new brake pads

which is what we are going to be doing

here so let's go ahead and take a look

at that the first thing that we're going

to be doing is removing this

bolt and I am going to get that tool and

show you how exactly we're going to do

that as

well so here I may be lambasted in the

comments for saying this but it looks to

me that I have a 17 mm socket here uh I

used it on the other side before making

this video and it seem to fit so it also

did not round the head of the screw so

that's a success in my book this is just

a regular ratcheting wrench so we are

going to use this to place it on the

other end of that bolts like it's kind

of hard to do this while holding the

camera

but like

so uh thank God for good depth

perception and we are going to loosen

this and take out the bult so uh I'm

going to go ahead and do that let's just

make sure that I have this

thing okay this is Titan so going to put

on loosen and let's see if I could do

this while holding a

camera so these could actually be on

pretty tightly I'm not left-handed let's

try to do a little switcher rout

here all

right

so it looks like that loosens

it or at least enough to remove the

bolt and once it is broken

free we can go ahead and remove that

bolt it looks like this bolt does not

have any thread Locker on it so what we

can do when we replace it is put a

medium strength thread Locker on the

threads so that when we reinstall this

vibrations from the beeh is not going to

make this eventually loosen I think also

even without thread Locker it's probably

not going to loosen but you know better

safe than

sorry all right so now that we have

removed that bolt now this end of the

caliper should open up like a clam shell

uh be very careful when you're opening

this as well because on the brake pads

themselves there are going to be these

two Springs which are applying pressure

in an outward Direction and they might

go flying if you open this too quickly

so

Let's uh just sort of gently open

it it's uh it's a little bit heavy and

it also might be a little bit tight so

keep that in mind while you're lifting

this and it's just going to sort of sit

in this direction the reason why I do it

this way as well is because if you end

up removing both uh bolts so there is

also an upware bolts here if you end up

removing both of those then the Cal

Lipper would just be sitting and

floating in this space and you need to

mount it on something so typically I

just do it this way so since nothing

else would be supporting the caliper in

that situation it would just be sort of

resting and this line would still be

attached to it if you let it to drop on

the ground then this can could just to

rip out and then brake flu could start

leaking everywhere um ask me how I know

anyway so keep it in this direction just

like that here we have our brake pads so

we can see these little I believe

they're called cotter pins I'm not

exactly sure what they're called maybe

someone can correct me anyway

so these apply an outward pressure on

these brake pads for reasons so we are

going to remove

them and they just pop out like so if

they're in good condition and they're

not too rusted they could probably be

reused uh however typically in the brake

pad kit that you purchase from a store

or Amazon or wherever else

uh they usually include new ones of

these so you can just it's up to you

whether you're reuse them or use new

ones uh for the purposes of this

discussion I guess all I will say is

that it's probably better to use new

tools if they're available and new

parts um but ultimately it's your

decision you're the one who's doing this

repair uh and also just as a disclaimer

anything you see or doing this video I'm

not resp responsible for you screwing up

in any way so yeah uh that's uh it's on

you anyway so I'm going to place that to

the side uh this video is for

educational purposes only yeah I should

have probably said that I'll say that

again at the end anyway so going to

remove

these pins as well they're probably not

called cter pins now that I think about

it uh here they are again and place it

over to the side and over here we have

our brake pads

which are inside these metal

brackets uh also in the kits in the

brake pad kit that you purchase

typically they will also come with these

uh metal retaining brackets and these

are where the brake pads slide onto

so now if you just sort of shimmy these

back and forth you should be able to

loosen them just enough to take them out

and here it

is the old brake pad

here so when we return we will take a

look and compare the old brake pads to

the

new so we return again uh to look at a

sort of demonstration between an old

brake pad versus a new brake pad so here

we have the old brake pad we can see

that this material is sort of

thinner and there is definitely more

wear on this one versus the new one if

we were to put them side by side you can

also see how much thicker that material

is so

yeah these little pins that are riveted

on the side so as the material continues

to wear down you may hear a slight

screeching

noise and when it starts to rub against

this this pin right here at the edge of

this so you can see the comparison

between how much material is left as

well as how much clearance there is on

the tip of that pin right

there if the rotor starts scratching on

this it will make a grinding sounds like

you would not believe it is incredibly

loud and it's basically yelling at you

saying replace me or up your rotors

forever

and uh yeah it's uh it's pretty serious

so don't ignore those sounds make sure

that you either do this yourself

or that you take it to an appropriate

mechanic so that they can take care of

it and charge you several hundred for

something that takes less than 30

minutes so yeah

um it's

uh you can also see the wear here I can

see the plenty of rust uh typically at

least in my experience someone can

correct me if I'm wrong but there have

been mainly two types of brake pad

material here uh one is a graphite or

graphine and the other is

ceramic and my experience uh the

graphites is more durable and lasts a

longer time uh the

ceramic it's quieter but it also

produces a lot more dust so typically I

produce or I would prefer the graphite

but uh I guess manufacturers are moving

towards providing ceramic maybe I could

be completely wrong about that uh that's

only my perception uh if anyone else has

any further information then feel free

to post a comments and I'll let me know

uh I'm also always interested about

learning more about these things as well

um but yeah I really don't care for

quieter breaks in my opinion I just

prefer purchasing more durable parts so

I don't have to replace them so

frequently all the time as well so yeah

that's just my perception other people

may have different opinions about

something like this but you know it's uh

it's an interesting conversational topic

maybe there is something I don't know

about uh ceramic braks that are vastly

better than uh in graphite but yeah uh

always open to learning more about it so

let's go ahead and begin replacing these

brakes

so these brake pads I'm using uh they

are called this element

3 uh brake pad apologies for all the

noise there's a lot of uh traffic

outside here uh actually let me see if I

could try that

again okay there we go yeah the lights

are not gone for some reason in the last

recording but I'm using these element 3

uh brake pads uh I'll I'll show the box

over here in a little a little bit but

uh basically these sort of slot in so if

we

just situate them in such a way that

they fit on their

brackets then they should be able to

just slide into place like that now

inside the kit that you receive like I

mentioned before uh they would have a

replacement for these little metal

pieces these retaining brackets for the

new brake pads

however it's up to you whether or not

you choose to replace them if they seem

to be in good condition and there's no

actual pitting or they're not you know

breaking apart in your hands then you

could continue to reuse them however uh

if you decide to replace them they are

available in that kit as well so

ultimately you know I'm just deciding to

leave them as it is because I am lazy

but uh yeah I am just going to to uh

accept the consequences for that and

continue to uh proceed with the

installation now there are a little

holes on each side of the brake pad that

we've seen right there right here on the

edges and they're also going to be here

as well and that is where those pins

that we took a look at earlier that's

how they are going to be retained in

place applying that outward pressure on

the brakes as well so let's go ahead and

get those pins and uh insert them

there all right so I have the new pins

here I'm actually amazed I'm doing this

entire thing left-handed because I am

not

left-handed

so in depth perception is working today

let's insert one end into one of the

holes here and the other end into the

other hole there and as you can see it's

already applying outward pressure here

so doing this with one hand is going to

be very very difficult but

uh yeah I just really hope that this is

going to work uh something that I did

not mention before is

that over here you do want to clean this

area out for any rust or any sort of

debris so that these brakes can move and

slide easily that's pretty important and

that's also probably the reason why you

want to replace these little

brackets so I cleans those off camera to

the best of my ability but uh if you

want to do this properly then you could

give it a more thorough cleaning as well

so let's see we are going to be placing

these on a hole right

here nice and easily there we go and

then this one as well this is going to

apply a lot of outter pressure

so once again trying to like have the

edge of my hand here you're holding it

and now there it is I am holding it with

one hand because right now there's a lot

of outward pressure being uh placed on

that so yeah let's just sort of leave it

like that and it's going to sit just

like that hopefully staying in place

when we put the caliper back on we're

going to need to push these back

together but uh yeah that's just you

know something else to keep in mind so

leaving that as it is we have the caler

here and something that we notice is

that as the brake pads wear over time

and you press on the brakes in the

vehicle themselves this outer area is

going to continue pushing further and

further inward to accommodate the loss

of material and what we need to do

before placing the caliper back on

because if we were to place it on right

now in its current state we would see

that this amount of clearance

will not slot over the brakes it will

just stop and we will not be able to get

that on so what we're going to do is

take an old brake pad put it along the

surface of these particular pistons and

then we're going to use a C clamp to

push these Pistons back in so that they

are flush with the surrounding uh

caliper material here and that amount of

clearance will provide

just enough room to slot over the new

brake pads so let's go ahead and do that

so here we are with the C clamp I'm

going to go ahead and loosen this as

much as I

can or you know uh just enough there are

tools that are created specifically for

compressing these Pistons uh

however I just decide to do it this one

way so you want to get the end of the

seat clamp as close to the middle of

this brake pad as possible since as you

are going to be tightening and as you're

going to be continuously applying

pressure you want it to sit as evenly as

possible if it does not then it's

possible that the rubber boot that is

surrounding the Piston here could

possibly break uh you know now that I

think about this I need one hands to

hold the clamp one hand to tighten it

and one hand to hold the camera so uh

yeah I have no idea how I'm going

to possibly do that let me see if I can

balance it this

way uh apologies for the angle but maybe

this will actually

work okay and of course when you're

seating the seat clamp here on the other

side you do want to make sure that it's

not in an unstable

position so

we're going to compress

it continue compressing it this way and

there are many different ways to

compress these Pistons uh this is just

my preferred method it's also the most

consistent so I'm going to continue

doing it this way until it's

flush okay now just a little bit

more and there we go I believe it's

flush now let's uh back off of it and

remove it

gently and take a look and

see how well we have done

here okay so now we can

see that the Piston is completely flush

it's not sort of Bo or

leaning in One Direction or another it

looks to be pretty

seamless so from here we will go ahead

and squeeze these brake pads together to

provide enough clearance for the caliper

to sit and back where it needs to go uh

we'll try to do this with one

hand yeah

okay and it's on top of my hand that's

fantastic let's nice and easily let it

sit

okay uh it's not quite sitting

down yeah so it's a little bit tight

because of that outward pressure that's

being provided by the

brakes let

[Music]

me try

to

actually to do with this one yeah yeah

that provides try do that so providing

enough pressure on the brakes

so let's try it back off and put it back

on

again oh there we go

so over

here when we removed

this

this uh this was extended

outwards like that so we just need to

push it inwards like this and then bring

it straight down there we go sits

flush all right so from here we are

going to put the screw and back in again

tighten it down to the appropriate

torque spec I do not know the

appropriate torque spec for this vehicle

so I tighten it all the way down and

then

some and that should be good enough

myself accepting any consequences that

occur from there as you should as well

so yeah uh let's go ahead and tighten

that

bolt I'm not really sure why I did not

just you know do it this way earlier but

I'm going to put the uh screw over here

I guess I have done this process many

times before but this is the first time

that I've done a while holding a camera

so still

learning after the bolt his hands

tightens here I'm not even sure this is

a good angle but it should be good

enough see okay let tightened and

tightens we are going to take our

ratcheting

wrench make sure it's untightened and go

ahead and tighten that bolt

down so there is an appropriate torque

spec for this

but first I tighten it all the way until

it

stops I back

off uh come on let's get it seated again

I'm sort of doing this blind because the

camera and then we tighten it just a

little

bit there we go yep that's

good okay so now that the brake pads

have been replaced

we can go ahead and place the wheel back

on before I mention that there are

probably other steps here as well such

as checking the brake fluid and uh you

know testing the brakes Etc that is not

really the purpose or the points of this

video uh the main point is just showing

the replacement of the brake pad process

so that's and very basic terms how it's

done

here and let's go ahead and replace

place the wheel so uh when we get back

uh we will take a closer look at

that so now that the wheel is back on we

are going to begin by replacing the lug

nuts here and you do want to be applying

an even

pressure along the perimeter of the

wheel so that each of these lug nuts can

go in evenly because if like I said

before if the wheel is sitting to a

little B bowed from the bottom or from

the top or from the sides because it's

round it could bow in any direction

basically then it will be difficult to

get the rest of these lug nuts situated

in place like for example this one here

because the vehicle is Bowing in sort of

a uh left to right direction since the

only bolts I have here are up and down

so let's put in the

rest and then from there we will go

ahead and tighten them

and we'll be tightening them in a star

pattern so let's put these back

here and we have one more

here so now the wheel is sitting evenly

on its uh lug

nuts well it's not the wheel that's

sitting on the lug nuts it's sitting on

the uh the bolts but all of them are

hands tightened so off camera I'm going

to tight in each of these and the manner

in which I do this is by going across so

that the wheel sits evenly so it'll be 1

2 3 4 five six so one more starting from

the center 1 2 3 4 5 6 or some kind of

derivative of that it doesn't need to be

exactly that way it just really depends

on where you start from you also you

always want to be going from the bolt

that is across so that the wheel can sit

evenly so that's 1 2 3 4 5 6 and

additionally to that when you are

tightening them you tighten them so

they're hand tight you don't actually

torque them all the way so you're doing

that cross pattern by hand tightening

them and then later you're going to

torque them down to spec I do not know

what the spec for uh torqueing these are

maybe it's 50 or 55 foot PBS or

something like that I don't know but uh

for your vehicle it might be different

for this CAC xt5 I don't know anyway so

I just use the tried and true method of

tiing it all the way down and then some

like a quarter turn or a half turn or

whatever and then we go ahead and do

that so let's go ahead and finish that

up off

camera and then wrap up this

video all right so now that we have

replaced all the lug nuts we are going

to go do the bottom of the vehicle got a

super shaky camera and we are going to

begin by making sure that this bleeder

valve over here is

tight and

taking a look here the vehicle is

[Music]

still on this jack stand what we are

going to be doing from here is very

slowly releasing pressure from this so

that this will uh go down I'm actually

getting ahead of myself want this to be

tight so that we can raise the vehicle

we can move the jack stand away and then

we can slowly relieve pressure on this

so that it moves downward

I don't know why I didn't say that the

first time but yeah it's uh a lot of

work okay let's uh go ahead and do that

so once again just applying a little bit

of

pressure

okay there we go and now this should be

able

[Applause]

to move freely

and then from here I really wish I could

balance this camera

somehow so my apologies for the

incredibly incredibly incredibly poor

camera angle but basically we are

loosening this bleeder valve here very

very slowly so that this vehicle can

lower down in a controlled manner making

sure that we are all safe while we're

doing something like this so once again

keep safety in

mind

and uh I already said the disclaimer at

the at an earlier point in the video at

least but I guess as good at time as any

I'm not responsible for any injury or

harm caused to you yourself or

others when lowering the vehicle down to

the ground you assume all responsibility

for any of your actions while performing

any repairs to your own vehicle or to

anyone else's and uh yeah this video is

for educational purposes only so take it

as it is

uh similar to all my other videos it's a

shame that I need to even say that but

you know uh when it rains a lawyer makes

money in this country so anyway so

slowly release pressure here

slowly very

slowly that was a little bit

fast slowly like I

said and basically what I'm doing right

now is I'm sort of releasing pressure

tightening releasing tightening

releasing tightening you just want to

continue doing

this just to keep yourself

safe

okay and once all the pressure is

released we can

slowly push this down and move it

away something that I would very very

very strongly

recommend is that whenever

you're doing

anything that needs any kind of jacking

up so this particular case we have you

know placing brakes break pads I would

recommend using something better than

this this is an old jack stand that I'm

borrowing from my father that he

purchased sometime in the 80s from

Harbor Freights if that's to be believed

but uh yeah it's one of the original

ones it's very heavy it's reliable but

as you can see it's seen better days I

had to balance it on this wooden

block just to uh make sure that doesn't

slide around or whatever so don't use

something like this if you can get a

proper jack stand use a proper well a

proper jack stand obviously but if you

could get a proper Jack use the proper

Jack do not use something like this I

only use this because you know I don't

have anything else um I think the video

is upside down

actually there we go that'll work I'm

sorry for those of you who are getting a

little bit of Seasick from all these

angles but anyway

this not great

great I mean you could even use the uh

the vehicle Jack that comes with your

vehicle like the one that's in your

trunk or whatever it'll probably be

better than this however the one that

came with my vehicle actually did not

come with the Cadillac but it came with

another vehicle it was too short to use

for this project and it did not provide

enough clearance supports so I had to

use this instead so yeah

uh if you have the option don't use

something like this because it

absolutely sucks but anyway it got the

job done and I'm grateful for having it

but it's it's a pain in the ass to use

because

of all the reasons I mentioned before

anyway so yeah that sort of completes

the brake job uh in the next uh shot

that I'm going to show before wrapping

up the video I'm going to show the tools

I used as well as provide some final

thoughts all right so here we are with

the finished product the wheel has been

placed back onto the vehicle with all

the lug nuts tightened and torqued to

spec spec anyway so here are all the

tools I used basically we have our jack

stands from circa

1981 with two missing front wheels

balanced out a wooden block don't use

something like this get a proper Jack I

only had to use this because of you know

my own limitations but honestly use

something better I guarantee you will

have an easier time anyway uh we have a

jack stand this is just an rj stand from

Harbor Freight bought a very long time

ago I think this has like a two or a 3

ton capacity depending upon the vehicle

that you're working on you do want to

make sure that you have the proper jack

stands that could support the the weight

of the vehicle and you want that to be

in clearance of like let's say 20 to 30%

of the actual weight of the vehicle so

if a vehicle weighs a certain weight you

want the jack stand to be able to

support 20 to 30% more than that weight

at least that's my recommendation other

people may have different opinions of it

but really you don't want something like

this feeling when you're working under a

car anyway we also have the brake pads

that I replaced I use R bestto element 3

brake pads um I read some reviews about

them online and I felt they were a good

product these are ceramic brakes I don't

really prefer ceramic brakes because I

really don't care about that much noise

and I think the dust is annoying to

clean but uh I mean they're fine for

what they are this is the tire uh iron

that I used to tighten and loosen the

lug

nuts I have uh this ratcheting Tool uh

this one is a husky brand that I got on

a deal from uh what's the name of that

place Home

Depot and I believe if I'm not

chastising the comments for it this is a

17 mm uh socket so it's a socket wrench

yeah I just realized it's a socket

wrench there we go

and of course we have the seat clamp

which we utilized for compressing the

caliber as well so that is providing

enough clearance for that caliper to go

back onto the rotor and that brake pad

assembly since you know after all the

material is removed it becomes thinner

and thinner and the caliper accommodates

that by pressing in thinner and thinner

so you need to compress those Pistons

again so that it widens just enough to

go

over that rotor and uh brake pad

combination

there but yeah those are basically all

the tools I used um I also have gloves

uh these gloves kind of suck though if

you're going to use gloves I would

recommend better

ones I don't know where you would get

better ones but maybe medical grade or

whatever depending on your budget but

yeah I would recommend using gloves in

general so you don't like get crap all

over your hands but

that is uh generally how to replace

brake pads um there are also some other

nuances as well such as you know making

sure that you have enough brake fluid uh

you know pumping the brakes to make sure

there's no air introduced in the system

you may need to B bleed the brakes when

you do this as well uh typically I don't

uh however I accept the consequences for

that and whenever you're working on your

own vehicle you know there is always

that uh element of volatility in which

you make certain decisions at the time

and then later on you remember this

whatever is happening like this is

happening because I did something before

so that's uh something to keep in mind

whenever you're working on something

like this as well I accept all that and

I've done this job this same way for a

long time and I haven't had any problems

I cannot guarantee that you won't though

so that's uh something to keep in

mind and uh yeah that's and pretty much

it so once again uh thank you all for

watching if you have any questions or

comments you can always post them in the

comments and uh we'll look forward to

the next one uh thank you all for

watching and I hope you all have a great

day take care