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1
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潮州人吃粥的人
2
00:00:01,966 --> 00:00:03,899
一旦你习惯了这种口感以后
3
00:00:03,900 --> 00:00:05,533
你可能一辈子都不敢再吃
4
00:00:05,666 --> 00:00:07,599
这边我看只剩一间罢了
5
00:00:08,266 --> 00:00:09,966
而且经济又好吃
6
00:00:10,333 --> 00:00:11,799
老实讲
7
00:00:11,800 --> 00:00:14,266
你马六甲再要找这样的 找不到了
8
00:00:15,133 --> 00:00:15,866
大众化
9
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他的粥好吃
10
00:00:17,366 --> 00:00:19,333
20年都有了 30年
11
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因为以前他旧的店
12
00:00:21,600 --> 00:00:24,200
在国泰戏院前面罢了
13
00:00:24,200 --> 00:00:25,866
我吃很多年
14
00:00:25,866 --> 00:00:27,266
现在已经96年了
15
00:00:27,500 --> 00:00:28,900
再四年就100年了
16
00:00:33,000 --> 00:00:34,200
我要一碗潮州粥
17
00:00:34,600 --> 00:00:36,966
然后这个菜
18
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这什么菜
19
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20
00:00:38,966 --> 00:00:39,766
我一个人吃罢了
21
00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,533
然后你们的咸菜、豆腐
22
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然后
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给我一只鱼
24
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不要
25
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还是要吃下你的卤味
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27
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我吃一个蒸鱼
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然后豆腐
29
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蒸鱼 再加个猪耳朵
30
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够了
31
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我已经很怀念了 这样的
32
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老字号的这个潮州粥店
33
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吉隆坡都没有剩几间了
34
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我是慕名而来的
35
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听说你都要迈入100年了
36
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还不赶快来吃
37
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潮州人吃粥的人
38
00:01:21,366 --> 00:01:23,299
一旦你习惯了这种口感以后
39
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你可能一辈子不敢再吃
40
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像这样的潮州粥店
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是非常稀罕的
42
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据我所知
43
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其实这种店越来越少
44
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尤其开超过30年以后
45
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的老店真的很少
46
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就很难得
47
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在今天这样一个中午的时候
48
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能够吃到潮州粥
49
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而潮州粥
50
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大家都会怀念的是它各种各样的小菜
51
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我不知道
52
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杂菜饭档
53
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是不是因为潮州粥的这种格式
54
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而慢慢发展起来的
55
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但这
56
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就是我们马来西亚的
57
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其中一种物质的文化之一
58
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那潮州粥 有机会吃要赶快吃
59
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20多岁来吃到现在
60
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61
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又好吃又便宜
62
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全马六甲
63
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你找不到第二间了
64
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Eh Brother!有钱给的
65
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哈哈哈
66
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什么我都叫
67
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你这样吃
68
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最多 最多15块
69
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很便宜了
70
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如果有外地的人来这边
71
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来这边吃
72
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可是不要太多人
73
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等一下没有位置坐
74
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这边我看剩下一间罢了
75
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而且经济又好吃
76
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老实讲
77
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你马六甲再要找这样的
78
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找不到了
79
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不要给人家认识我
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我看
81
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我差不多一个礼拜最少都三天
82
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三天到四天
83
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84
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因为老婆不要煮
85
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哈哈哈
86
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开玩笑
87
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推荐他们来这边吃
88
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他们可以叫咯
89
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什么都可以
90
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反正都很便宜的
91
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我们都知道潮州粥
92
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它有很多配菜
93
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而每一家潮州粥馆
94
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都有一些很不同的菜
95
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其实有哪一些菜
96
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是你阿公、爸爸到你留下来的
97
00:03:02,566 --> 00:03:05,133
然后有哪些菜是 后来可能食客
98
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可能食材没有了
99
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然后你就没有再做了
100
00:03:08,133 --> 00:03:09,599
有哪一些菜
101
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你是讲没有的
102
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没有的
103
00:03:12,000 --> 00:03:14,800
以前是我们有卖那个海参猪脚
104
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105
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那大菜来的
106
00:03:17,133 --> 00:03:18,533
因为海参很贵的关系
107
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所以我们就没有卖了
108
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109
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这个是豪华版的
110
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我没有听过
111
00:03:23,733 --> 00:03:26,133
早期这些东西都是很便宜的
112
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后期才比较贵
113
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我们这边比较有
114
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以前到现在都有卖的东西
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市场上又很少
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有的是我们的咸菜
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118
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那个血蛤
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我们的肉饼
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121
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一些猪皮
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这些在 还有
123
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有时还有卖猪血
124
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猪血
125
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这些都是在外面都很难
126
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比较少看到
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对
128
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海鲜类我看到也比较少
129
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我看到也就Kembung鱼
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Kembung鱼 蒸鱼
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132
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血蛤
133
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海鲜是 注意到我们的价钱
134
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是属于大众化的
135
00:04:07,733 --> 00:04:10,533
对 对 所以一些东西早期我们有卖
136
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那些魟鱼
137
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一些鲳鱼
138
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那些早期的时候有
139
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后来就没有 因为价钱的关系
140
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141
00:04:21,566 --> 00:04:23,266
反正因为我之前去过汕头
142
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大概住了两个礼拜
143
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我就在那边吃过他们的潮州粥
144
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的时候
145
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他们就很多那种生腌
146
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对
147
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很多生腌 早期我们也是有
148
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以前我们有
149
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我们的是Kembung鱼
150
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151
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对 生腌Kembung鱼
152
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对
153
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后来我们就改成煎的
154
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为什么
155
00:04:42,666 --> 00:04:44,666
怕食客觉得太腥是吗
156
00:04:45,766 --> 00:04:46,899
可以这样讲
157
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158
00:04:48,166 --> 00:04:49,499
咸菜、豆腐
159
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160
00:04:53,000 --> 00:04:54,466
长豆 咸鱼
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大众化
162
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它的粥好吃
163
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20年
164
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20年就有了 30年
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因为以前他
166
00:05:01,100 --> 00:05:02,866
旧的店在
167
00:05:03,133 --> 00:05:04,799
国泰戏院前面罢了
168
00:05:04,800 --> 00:05:05,866
我吃很多年
169
00:05:06,533 --> 00:05:07,399
马来西亚人做潮州粥
170
00:05:07,400 --> 00:05:09,600
这和原乡很接近的
171
00:05:09,766 --> 00:05:10,799
然后我们吃粥的人
172
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都会有个习惯
173
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跟大家玩一种搅拌的游戏
174
00:05:15,133 --> 00:05:17,366
因为这些菜的口味都不太一样
175
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有酸的 有咸的
176
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有菜味的
177
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还有这个清蒸鱼的味道
178
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好多人蒸鱼讲求鲜度
179
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然后吃不惯的人会觉得它有点腥
180
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因为它要求的是食材够新鲜
181
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而且用最极简的调味方式
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就把它蒸出来
183
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所以吃起来后 你会觉得鲜的感觉
184
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加一点咸菜
185
00:05:40,200 --> 00:05:41,666
或者拌一点这个卤
186
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然后把这个雪白的粥染上颜色 然后
187
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自己再品尝一下
188
00:05:48,933 --> 00:05:52,366
好像还不够黑
189
00:05:52,366 --> 00:05:53,866
然后你就会再往下
190
00:05:54,000 --> 00:05:55,866
可能再弄一个比较黑的东西
191
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甚至你也会在想说
192
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能不能把这碗粥
193
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整碗都把它拌起来
194
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那就是我小时候做的事情
195
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就是吃到快完的时候
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担心浪费
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我就会再叫一碗粥
198
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然后汤要多一点
199
00:06:17,400 --> 00:06:18,866
然后全部拌起来
200
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变成一个大杂烩粥
201
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这就是我吃潮州粥的乐趣
202
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刚才老板跟我说
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小朋友不要接
204
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现在已经96年了
205
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再四年就100年了
206
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100年潮州粥店
207
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非常难得
208
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是希望有人接手
209
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问题不是在于我
210
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因为我迟早一天会老
211
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那迟早一天应该还有20年
212
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到30年了 不会
213
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我接近60岁了
214
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哈哈哈
215
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应该还有几年有了
216
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潮州粥
217
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当然就是和广东粥差别还是很大的了
218
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潮州粥
219
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当然它的处理
220
00:07:00,500 --> 00:07:05,166
米煮成粥的那个方式
221
00:07:05,166 --> 00:07:07,099
跟广东人的方法不一样
222
00:07:07,100 --> 00:07:09,600
广东人是很绵密的 看不到饭粒的
223
00:07:09,766 --> 00:07:10,966
或看不到米花的
224
00:07:11,300 --> 00:07:13,166
潮州粥是一定要有米花
225
00:07:14,266 --> 00:07:15,866
而这米花又不能够太
226
00:07:17,566 --> 00:07:19,133
不能说太为糜烂
227
00:07:19,300 --> 00:07:20,700
228
00:07:20,700 --> 00:07:20,866
229
00:07:20,866 --> 00:07:25,733
它是介于一个米花 绵密和糜烂之间
230
00:07:25,966 --> 00:07:28,099
喝进去要有那个米的口感
231
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刚拿出来的
232
00:07:32,500 --> 00:07:33,200
去看就知道了
233
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它那个浮出来
234
00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:37,400
好像每一个米花都是成型的
235
00:07:38,100 --> 00:07:41,100
但它不会像广东粥是看不到米花的
236
00:07:41,266 --> 00:07:42,666
这潮州粥的特色
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00:07:42,666 --> 00:07:43,699
刚才一直有跟我提到说
238
00:07:43,700 --> 00:07:46,866
不知道怎么样可以让小孩子来接手
239
00:07:46,866 --> 00:07:50,366
因为这个工作本身就比较劳累
240
00:07:50,666 --> 00:07:52,866
很早就要去备菜
241
00:07:53,400 --> 00:07:56,700
然后可能3、4点就要起来
242
00:07:56,700 --> 00:07:59,000
5点 5点要起来 对
243
00:07:59,100 --> 00:08:02,966
就开始去pasar买货品
244
00:08:03,166 --> 00:08:06,066
然后才开始做工
245
00:08:06,066 --> 00:08:08,933
那基本上差不多卖到2、3点就收了是吗
246
00:08:08,933 --> 00:08:09,466
6点
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00:08:09,466 --> 00:08:10,333
卖到6点
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00:08:10,366 --> 00:08:10,933
卖到6点
249
00:08:10,933 --> 00:08:14,699
就等于是中午一直到傍晚
250
00:08:14,700 --> 00:08:16,566
早期我父亲
251
00:08:16,566 --> 00:08:18,866
他们的时候是卖到晚上9点
252
00:08:18,933 --> 00:08:21,299
那就很接近吉隆坡
253
00:08:21,300 --> 00:08:22,700
中午一直卖到晚上9点
254
00:08:22,700 --> 00:08:23,800
就是做完宵夜
255
00:08:24,400 --> 00:08:26,266
因为人手的关系
256
00:08:26,266 --> 00:08:27,399
难聘请人
257
00:08:27,533 --> 00:08:29,799
外劳也是很难
258
00:08:29,800 --> 00:08:31,566
聘请到
259
00:08:31,600 --> 00:08:33,333
因为没有人手的关系
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00:08:33,333 --> 00:08:36,566
所以我们一直不够人
261
00:08:36,566 --> 00:08:37,966
就缩短时间
262
00:08:37,966 --> 00:08:39,733
我刚才坐在这边静静观察
263
00:08:39,800 --> 00:08:43,266
基本上来的食客真的老中青小
264
00:08:43,266 --> 00:08:44,066
都有
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00:08:44,700 --> 00:08:47,166
这都是从小吃到老
266
00:08:47,166 --> 00:08:48,266
吃到走为止
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00:08:48,266 --> 00:08:50,066
食客是非常的多
268
00:08:50,066 --> 00:08:51,199
翻了几次台
269
00:08:51,266 --> 00:08:52,866
父母带着婴儿来喝粥
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00:08:52,866 --> 00:08:53,766
然后吃菜
271
00:08:53,933 --> 00:08:55,366
然后也有年长
272
00:08:55,700 --> 00:08:58,700
就是比较年长的长辈也过来吃粥
273
00:08:58,900 --> 00:09:00,400
本来吃粥这个事情
274
00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:02,200
就很适合一家人一起吃
275
00:09:02,200 --> 00:09:06,066
因为很多客户都是从小吃到老
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00:09:06,066 --> 00:09:06,766
哈哈哈
277
00:09:06,766 --> 00:09:07,766
甚至有些客户
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00:09:07,766 --> 00:09:10,266
都会要求在晚年的时候
279
00:09:10,266 --> 00:09:11,799
一直再回来吃粥
280
00:09:12,700 --> 00:09:13,666
多么老的店
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00:09:14,066 --> 00:09:15,099
墙面上
282
00:09:15,100 --> 00:09:20,300
都会容纳着这些菜 混合的一种味道
283
00:09:20,600 --> 00:09:23,100
有些人是一进来就觉得
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00:09:23,100 --> 00:09:25,533
这就是一间粥饭店
285
00:09:26,200 --> 00:09:27,366
因为你可以想象
286
00:09:27,366 --> 00:09:28,666
这些菜一开始煮的时候
287
00:09:28,666 --> 00:09:30,066
每样都是热腾腾的
288
00:09:30,300 --> 00:09:31,533
它热腾腾的那个气味
289
00:09:31,533 --> 00:09:33,133
就会融合在空气里
290
00:09:33,500 --> 00:09:35,066
然后被这些墙面吸收
291
00:09:35,200 --> 00:09:37,166
甚至也被这个老的椅子
292
00:09:37,166 --> 00:09:38,699
跟我以前那种老的椅子
293
00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:40,466
都会形成出那个味道
294
00:09:40,466 --> 00:09:40,599
对
295
00:09:40,600 --> 00:09:43,733
我刚才一进来就闻到一股粥饭店的味道
296
00:09:43,733 --> 00:09:45,266
因为现在我们想象中的店
297
00:09:45,266 --> 00:09:46,966
都是那种空调
298
00:09:47,500 --> 00:09:48,966
然后进来就是一种
299
00:09:48,966 --> 00:09:50,933
可能有一个人造香精的味道
300
00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:52,133
让你觉得很舒服
301
00:09:52,133 --> 00:09:53,466
对不对 而这样的店
302
00:09:53,466 --> 00:09:55,933
其实它还会让你觉得很温馨
303
00:09:56,366 --> 00:09:59,066
而且会有一种熟悉感
304
00:10:00,333 --> 00:10:01,266
大家有没有注意到
305
00:10:01,266 --> 00:10:05,366
我们其实有很长一段时间没有喝粥了
306
00:10:05,566 --> 00:10:08,066
你说潮州粥 它的滋味在哪里
307
00:10:08,066 --> 00:10:09,066
你说潮州粥
308
00:10:09,066 --> 00:10:12,299
它为什么特别值得我们去尝试
309
00:10:12,300 --> 00:10:13,900
或者是去回味
310
00:10:14,333 --> 00:10:15,966
我们有机会来到了马六甲的
311
00:10:15,966 --> 00:10:18,799
潮盛这间潮州粥店
312
00:10:18,933 --> 00:10:20,066
我看它的牌子上
313
00:10:20,066 --> 00:10:22,399
已经列名90几年的店了
314
00:10:22,700 --> 00:10:24,133
那是不是再过几年
315
00:10:24,133 --> 00:10:28,866
它就迈向100年的潮州粥老店
316
00:10:28,866 --> 00:10:30,666
但是跟老板聊了以后
317
00:10:30,666 --> 00:10:31,766
他总是有一种
318
00:10:33,666 --> 00:10:36,299
情怀或者是有一种叹息
319
00:10:36,733 --> 00:10:37,466
总觉得
320
00:10:37,466 --> 00:10:38,866
未来这个工作
321
00:10:38,866 --> 00:10:40,466
可能没有人会接
322
00:10:41,000 --> 00:10:42,966
他就蛮惋惜地告诉我说
323
00:10:42,966 --> 00:10:45,299
能够做多久就做多久
324
00:10:45,533 --> 00:10:46,533
那当然又回到了
325
00:10:46,533 --> 00:10:50,466
我们是如何去体恤这样的一种饮食
326
00:10:50,700 --> 00:10:53,300
这也就是我一直在说的滋味
327
00:10:53,733 --> 00:10:55,466
到底马六甲的好滋味
328
00:10:55,466 --> 00:10:58,099
老滋味该如何被鉴赏
329
00:10:58,333 --> 00:11:00,266
很多人会用自己生命的经验
330
00:11:00,266 --> 00:11:02,733
或者生命饮食的一些观感
331
00:11:02,766 --> 00:11:04,666
去判断一个食物的好坏
332
00:11:04,866 --> 00:11:07,866
或许我们不需要那么着急地下判断
333
00:11:08,300 --> 00:11:10,900
能不能先让我们稍微持平一点
334
00:11:11,200 --> 00:11:14,066
先不去谈这个食物好不好
335
00:11:14,133 --> 00:11:15,166
美不美味
336
00:11:15,266 --> 00:11:15,799
但是
337
00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:19,533
花一点点时间去品尝它的滋味
338
00:11:19,700 --> 00:11:22,200
因为一方水土养殖一方人
339
00:11:22,366 --> 00:11:25,299
当地的食物为什么是煮成这个样子
340
00:11:25,300 --> 00:11:25,666
为什么
341
00:11:25,666 --> 00:11:28,166
我们倾向于用这样的一种调味料
342
00:11:28,166 --> 00:11:30,199
为什么我们会用这样的一种配菜
343
00:11:30,333 --> 00:11:32,533
可能都和我们当地的文化
344
00:11:32,900 --> 00:11:33,466
食品
345
00:11:33,466 --> 00:11:36,533
还有我们就近所取得的食材息息相关
346
00:11:36,666 --> 00:11:39,599
而如果还没有先去观察
347
00:11:39,600 --> 00:11:42,100
或者是品尝个中的滋味
348
00:11:42,400 --> 00:11:44,100
太快地下判断的话
349
00:11:44,100 --> 00:11:47,200
会不会你就错过了马六甲的好滋味
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