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A strangely shaped mountain
catching the clouds high above
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the jungles of Venezuela.
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Its summit rocks have been carved
into a multitude of grotesque shapes.
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00:01:05,560 --> 00:01:09,920
The sculptor, an agent that is
continuously at wor on much of the
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landscape of our planet: Rainwater.
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00:01:15,240 --> 00:01:18,440
It washes over the rock,
eroding it chemically.
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It permeates the cracks, freezes,
and chips it off in flakes and splinters.
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As the water flows downwards,
it starts on a long journey
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that will take it from the
mountains to the sea,
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and here, with a leap of over 3,000
feet, the highest made by any river,
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it forms the Angel Falls.
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00:01:56,600 --> 00:02:00,240
Our journey begins not far from
that towering waterfall
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on the high moorlands of Peru,
15,000 feet above the sea.
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Water is a very extraordinary
and very precious substance,
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the only one on earth,
apart from mercury,
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which remains liquid at normal
temperatures and pressures,
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00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:33,840
and because of that, it is an essential
part of the bodies of all living organisms,
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animals and plant.
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Without it, life would come to an end.
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But this particular water is
a very rare kind.
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97% of the water on earth
is salty, the sea,
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but this was distilled from the surface
of the sea by the heat of the sun,
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rose into the sky as vapour,
condensed to form clouds and then
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fell again as rain and snow to form
streams of pure, fresh, sweet water.
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00:03:03,120 --> 00:03:09,400
But this particular stream is on its
way to the sea a very long way away,
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because these are the Andes,
and this is one of the many streams
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that can claim to be a source of the
biggest river on earth, the Amazon.
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The difficulties of living in this young
and violent river are formidable.
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Its waters are thick with powdered
rock and mud, but they have
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gathered few nutrients,
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and they rush down the valley
at tremendous speed.
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Anything that lives here has to be
a prodigious swimmer.
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And these are. They're torrent ducks.
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00:03:58,640 --> 00:04:01,960
They exploit the swirls and eddies
with consummate skill,
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00:04:02,160 --> 00:04:05,160
paddling with powerfull strokes
of their large webbed feet.
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They head always upstream, bracing
themselves against rocks with their stiff
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quilled tail,and using small horny
spurs on the wrists of their wings
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00:04:14,480 --> 00:04:15,720
to give them purchase.
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00:04:21,480 --> 00:04:26,080
A pair owns a stretch of the river,
working their way up it to the frontier
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00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:30,120
of their territory when they abandon
themselves to the flood and are swept
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00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:32,400
downstream to begin all over again.
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Anchored firmly to the rocks
is a kind of moss.
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Mosses are primitive, ancient
plants that appeared on earth
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long before flowering plants.
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00:04:59,800 --> 00:05:04,160
This torrent moss is found in young
rivers and streams all over the world,
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00:05:04,440 --> 00:05:08,800
and wherever it grows, whether
in the Andes or here in Europe,
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it provides shelter for
a multitude of insect larvae
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00:05:14,680 --> 00:05:18,560
In summer, these creatures will become
transformed and fly briefly above
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the river to mate, but most of
their lives are spent underwater.
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00:05:22,920 --> 00:05:25,240
Some are streamlined
against the current.
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00:05:26,440 --> 00:05:30,640
The caddis fly larvae live in protective
tubes, the hollow stem of a reed,
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or a construction of bits of wood
stuck together with silk.
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Some weight themselves down
so that the current doesn't
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shift them by building their shelters
from heavy grains of sand.
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00:05:51,000 --> 00:05:54,840
The larva of the blackfly holds
on to a pebble with its back end,
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while it grabs at food particles
that are swept past it
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with the antennae on its head.
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00:06:01,360 --> 00:06:07,840
It grips the rock with a ring of hooks,
but even if it loses its hold, all is not lost.
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It has a lifeline of silk which it has
attached to its chosen pebble.
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Having hauled itself back,
it now has to get a new grip.
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00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:37,880
First it spins a tiny pad of silk from
a spinneret just beneath its mouth,
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00:06:38,080 --> 00:06:40,440
then it fixes its hooks into that.
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00:06:43,120 --> 00:06:47,320
The nets with which it collects its
food are modified antennae,
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and the larva brushes off what
they catch with alternate flicks
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of its mouthparts.
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00:06:56,320 --> 00:06:58,800
Not all caddis larvae live in solid tubes.
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This one builds a construction
that serves both as a home and
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a food-gathering device.
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00:07:11,040 --> 00:07:14,440
It uses its silk to produce
a funnel-shaped scaffold
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of criss-crossing threads.
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00:07:26,760 --> 00:07:29,600
Undulating its body is a way
of aiding its breathing,
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for the movement speeds the flow of
oxygen-bearing water through the funnel.
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It holds on with the hooks
at the back...
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...leaving its jaws and front legs
free to do the construction work.
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00:08:13,920 --> 00:08:17,640
This blackfly larva wasn't
saved by its lifeline.
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00:08:42,800 --> 00:08:47,000
But the caddis fly larva itself,
ferocious and art trapper though it is,
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is also at risk.
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The dipper relishes it.
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00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:01,240
Dippers live both in the rivers
of North America and Europe.
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00:09:03,360 --> 00:09:06,000
Underwater, their swimming
technique is quite different from
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the torrent ducks in the Andes.
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00:09:08,800 --> 00:09:13,120
Its feet are not webbed like a duck's,
so it propels itself with its wings,
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flying underwater.
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00:09:32,840 --> 00:09:36,040
In similar cold, fast-flowing
streams in North America
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lives a kind of giant newt,
the hellbender.
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00:09:40,040 --> 00:09:43,560
When it's young, it also, like a
dipper, takes insect larvae,
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but it can grow to over two feet long,
and then it seeks much bigger prey.
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A crayfish would suit it admirably.
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00:09:57,800 --> 00:10:02,600
A narrow escape. The crayfish saved
itself at the last moment by a convulsive
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snap of its tail, but the hellbender
doesn't give up easily.
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00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:14,920
Both animals try to keep out
of the current and habitually
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creep into crevices.
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00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:31,840
But that sometimes is a mistake.
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00:10:54,200 --> 00:10:58,200
Streams that tumble down the sides
of the valleys and feed young rivers
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have their own population.
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00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:06,320
In Malaysia, the big-headed turtle
clambers around the waterfalls,
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using its tail as a prop.
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00:11:19,760 --> 00:11:22,600
In West African waterfalls,
and nowhere else,
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lives the extraordinary hairy frog.
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00:11:28,800 --> 00:11:33,520
Its so-called hairs are filaments of
skin on its flanks which act as gills,
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helping it to absorb oxygen
from the water.
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And, almost as unusual, it has claws
that help it grip the slippery stones
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00:12:00,880 --> 00:12:05,200
The many sources of the Amazon
began as rivulets on the eastern
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flanks of the Andes.
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Now, 5,000 feet lower down,
each has grown beyond recognition
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and cut its own zigzag valley.
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White water, tumbling down the
valley wall, joins the brown water
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of a larger tributary,
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heavy with mud and sediment.
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00:12:26,600 --> 00:12:32,800
And as it gets bigger and bigger, so
it becomes more and more powerful.
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00:12:33,200 --> 00:12:37,280
It's the dry season at the moment
and the river is comparatively low.
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00:12:37,520 --> 00:12:42,120
But during the rains, when it's in
spate, its waters rise up over here
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00:12:42,280 --> 00:12:47,600
and the sheer volume and weight
and force of them can shift boulders
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the size of these.
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00:13:04,320 --> 00:13:10,600
The volume and speed of its waters
are not the river's only weapons.
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It also has teeth.
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And in this empty rainy-season part
of its bed, you can see them.
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Sand and gravel, fragments of rock
that have been eroded from higher
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up in its course
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00:13:29,920 --> 00:13:35,560
and which the river hurls with enormous
force at the rocks of its river bed.
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00:13:39,280 --> 00:13:43,880
With such tools, it can carve away
the sides of mountains.
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00:13:58,280 --> 00:14:02,800
Young, vigorous rivers transform
the land, demolishing the mountains,
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breaking down the debris into smaller
and smaller particles and carrying
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them away downstream.
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00:14:09,120 --> 00:14:13,920
This river in China is perpetually so
turbid that it's called the Huang Ho,
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the Yellow River.
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00:14:15,480 --> 00:14:19,200
It carries a bigger load of sediment
than any other river in the world.
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00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:24,800
During floods, each cubic yard of
water contains over 2,000 pounds
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of soil and pulverised rock.
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00:14:40,160 --> 00:14:44,040
Rivers in the full vigour of their
youth are terrifyingly strong.
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They roll great boulders
along their beds,
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they cut away at the banks,
undermining trees which crash into
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the waters and are swept away.
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00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:05,600
When a river encounters a band
of unusually hard rock, such as an
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ancient flow of basalt lava,
its progress is temporarily slowed.
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It spreads out across the barrier
and then tumbles over the front edge.
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So are formed some of the
loveliest cascades.
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These are the falls of Iguacu
on the border of Brazil and Paraguay.
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They can't compare in height
with the Angel Falls,
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00:15:26,560 --> 00:15:29,680
but in terms of the volume of
water that passes over them,
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they are incomparably bigger.
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The falling waters pound away
at the base of the falls,
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undercutting the basalt
until blocks split off the face.
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00:15:52,120 --> 00:15:56,840
So the falls steadily work their way
upriver, leaving downstream a deep
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gorge, and animals live even here,
within the falls themselves.
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00:16:04,920 --> 00:16:08,880
Swifts perch on the rock face
behind the cascade.
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Every evening they congregate
high above Iguacu.
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After a day of hawking for insects,
they're ready to roost.
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And where safer than behind
a screen of falling water?
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Some dive down with such speed
that they shoot right through the fall.
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And now the river has left
the mountains far behind
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and has changed its
character considerably.
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It's bigger, it's broader, and its waters
carry not only sand and gravel
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but rich nutrients washed in from
its vegetation-covered banks.
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And after it's gone over its last
rapids and tumbled over its last fall,
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it becomes a very different
river indeed.
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It's middle-aged: Ampler,
less violent, more sluggish and richer.
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On the banks of the Amazon
tributaries, the jungle stands thick.
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Birds like the sun bittern
stalk quietly in search of a meal.
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Huge fish cruise through
the slow waters.
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The arapaima, one of the largest
of freshwater fish,
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grows over six feet long.
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The Amazon contains over 3,000
different kinds of fish.
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That's more than live in all the Atlantic
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Rays almost certainly
evolved in the sea,
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but this species has managed
to make the change to fresh water
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and lives high up the Amazon.
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Many fish have evolved here
in fresh water
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and have become suited to all its
variations of depth, speed and chemical
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composition, to muddy water
and to clear, to stretches that are
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thick with plants and places
where there are none.
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Their variety is enormous.
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Take, for example,
just one family: The catfish.
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00:18:31,840 --> 00:18:35,520
They're bottom-dwelling fish,
with feelers or bubbles on their snouts
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00:18:35,600 --> 00:18:39,280
that have sense organs on them,
so the fish can feel and taste
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their way through the thick,
muddy water or at night.
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There are small ones
and immense ones,
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some that give electric shocks
and others that swim upside down.
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00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:54,320
Those who lives in fast-flowing
waters have suckers on their chins
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or undersides with which
they cling to rocks.
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00:18:59,040 --> 00:19:06,280
In South America alone, there are
1,200 different species of catfish.
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In these crowded waters, many fish
give special protection to their young
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for the first few weeks of their lives.
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This fish, the discus, goes even further.
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00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:46,120
It provides its fry with special food.
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00:19:46,640 --> 00:19:50,520
The parents exude a nutritious
slime from their skin
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and the young graze over their
flanks, feeding on it.
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After a week, they're big enough
to feed on small particles
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00:20:31,880 --> 00:20:32,920
floating in the water.
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00:20:45,760 --> 00:20:50,160
These are now a month old and
have already assumed the disc-like
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shape of their parents.
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They're becoming independent,
but they've strayed past the lair
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00:20:55,440 --> 00:20:56,880
of an electric eel
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00:21:00,160 --> 00:21:01,760
The eel has poor eyesight,
195
00:21:01,920 --> 00:21:05,760
but it detects the presence of objects
around it with short electric discharges,
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00:21:05,840 --> 00:21:07,040
a kind of radar.
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00:21:09,440 --> 00:21:12,960
It rises for a gulp of air.
This time the young discus
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seem to have escaped detection.
199
00:21:23,480 --> 00:21:28,240
But the eel can also produce a major
electric shock which stuns its prey.
200
00:21:43,600 --> 00:21:48,360
It releases its capture. Perhaps
so small a fish is not worth eating.
201
00:21:48,600 --> 00:21:52,280
The young discus, apart from the
marks of the eel's jaws on its flanks,
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seems no worse off.
203
00:21:55,640 --> 00:21:58,840
One Amazonian fish puts its eggs
beyond the reach of any
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water-living predator:
On leaves overhanging a river.
205
00:22:04,360 --> 00:22:06,960
A pair of splashing tetras are courting.
206
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:13,200
They curve their bodies and,
for an instant, leap clear of the water.
207
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Sometimes a third fish joins in.
208
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The bigger of the two is the male.
209
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:30,000
For a moment the pair hang on
the leaf, supported by the suction
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of the male's floppy fins.
211
00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:39,840
Again and again, they jump.
In this one moment, the female
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00:22:39,920 --> 00:22:44,040
lays her eggs and drops off, and the
male fertilises them and follows her.
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00:22:44,840 --> 00:22:47,720
Each time, they leave behind
a dozen or so eggs.
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00:22:54,760 --> 00:22:58,320
A few infertile eggs drop off the leaf,
but they're not wasted.
215
00:22:58,520 --> 00:23:02,400
Eventually as many as 200 eggs
are safely placed out of harm's way,
216
00:23:02,600 --> 00:23:06,480
and the river can be an
exceedingly dangerous place.
217
00:23:07,920 --> 00:23:11,240
Piranha, the most savage
of all the Amazon's fish.
218
00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:15,320
A swimming capybara suddenly
realises their presence and tries
219
00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:17,240
to retreat, but it's too late.
220
00:23:23,120 --> 00:23:26,560
The splashing, the taste of blood
spreading through the water,
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00:23:26,720 --> 00:23:30,200
attracts more of the shoal until
there are hundreds of the fish,
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00:23:30,280 --> 00:23:32,720
all possessed by a frenzy for flesh.
223
00:23:32,960 --> 00:23:36,840
None are much more than a foot long,
but their teeth are sharp enough
224
00:23:36,920 --> 00:23:38,560
to cut clean through bone.
225
00:23:47,680 --> 00:23:50,000
Within minutes, there's little left.
226
00:23:53,680 --> 00:23:58,640
As the river gets older, it slows down.
A minor obstacle in its path is now
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00:23:58,720 --> 00:23:59,640
enough to deflect it.
228
00:23:59,800 --> 00:24:04,040
The water flowing round the outside
of a bend has to travel farther
229
00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:06,160
and speeds up and cuts
away at the bank.
230
00:24:06,360 --> 00:24:08,640
On the inside of a bend,
where the current is slow,
231
00:24:08,800 --> 00:24:12,200
the water can no longer support
its load of sediment and drops it
232
00:24:12,280 --> 00:24:13,200
to form a shoal.
233
00:24:13,400 --> 00:24:17,640
So the bend becomes more and more
exaggerated as the elderly river
234
00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:21,440
swings from side to side in a
series of loops and meanders.
235
00:24:22,120 --> 00:24:26,440
One bend may approach another
until the neck of land between the two
236
00:24:26,520 --> 00:24:28,080
is so narrow it collapses.
237
00:24:28,320 --> 00:24:31,800
Then the river takes the shorter
course and the meander is left
238
00:24:31,880 --> 00:24:33,960
isolated as a curving lake.
239
00:24:34,760 --> 00:24:37,440
There the water, at last, is still.
240
00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:41,200
Plants no longer have to fight
against a current, and the lakes
241
00:24:41,280 --> 00:24:43,040
become clogged with vegetation.
242
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:49,600
These are the largest floating leaves
of all, the leaves of the famous
243
00:24:49,680 --> 00:24:51,640
giant Amazon lily.
244
00:24:52,760 --> 00:24:56,440
Covering the water with leaves
of this size is very aggressive act,
245
00:24:56,600 --> 00:25:00,800
for it cuts out the light below,
making it very difficult for other plants
246
00:25:00,880 --> 00:25:01,800
to grow there.
247
00:25:02,040 --> 00:25:06,400
The upturned rims of the great pads,
as they grow, thrust to one side
248
00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:08,600
all other floating plants
249
00:25:09,360 --> 00:25:13,360
And to prevent these leaves being
destroyed by being eaten by fish,
250
00:25:13,560 --> 00:25:18,400
they are protected with very effective
and ferocious spines underneath,
251
00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:21,800
as you can see most clearly
on this half-opened bud.
252
00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:27,360
It can develop from the size of a
soup plate to a huge emerald disc
253
00:25:27,440 --> 00:25:29,320
six feet across in only a few days,
254
00:25:29,560 --> 00:25:32,440
growing at a rate of one
square inch in a minute.
255
00:25:32,960 --> 00:25:34,880
The flowers develop
with similar speed.
256
00:25:35,160 --> 00:25:39,440
Each opens first in the evening and
remains with its petals spread
257
00:25:39,520 --> 00:25:41,200
and fragrant all night.
258
00:25:41,400 --> 00:25:44,440
By the morning, however,
it's closed again.
259
00:25:44,520 --> 00:25:47,480
But during the night
it's taken prisoners.
260
00:25:48,240 --> 00:25:51,360
Inside the flower are beetles.
261
00:25:52,520 --> 00:25:56,240
Sometimes there are as many as 40
of them in a single bloom.
262
00:25:56,440 --> 00:26:00,000
They're not there just by accident.
They've been attracted by special
263
00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:03,280
sugary outgrowths in the
centre of the flower.
264
00:26:03,640 --> 00:26:07,000
And while they're trapped in there,
during the day, they will feed on those.
265
00:26:07,160 --> 00:26:11,920
This evening the flower will open for
second time, the beetles will be released
266
00:26:12,000 --> 00:26:16,120
and they'll fly off carrying
with them pollen to cross-pollinate
267
00:26:16,200 --> 00:26:17,680
another lily flower.
268
00:26:17,840 --> 00:26:23,800
And then, after just two nights,
this bloom, by now turned purple,
269
00:26:23,880 --> 00:26:26,040
will crumple and die.
270
00:26:29,880 --> 00:26:34,600
The leaves, strengthened by air-filled
ribs beneath, can support the weight
271
00:26:34,680 --> 00:26:35,840
of a small child,
272
00:26:36,040 --> 00:26:39,960
and water birds can walk over them
with complete confidence and safety.
273
00:26:44,400 --> 00:26:49,360
The jacana has greatly elongated toes
that can spread its weight so effectively
274
00:26:49,520 --> 00:26:54,480
that it can tread on very flimsy leaves
without submerging them.
275
00:26:54,840 --> 00:26:57,880
It seeks insects, and there are
plenty to choose from.
276
00:26:58,760 --> 00:27:03,000
The pond skater sits on a leaf,
but it could equally sit on the water,
277
00:27:03,200 --> 00:27:07,360
for the surface forms a platform
that supports many small creatures.
278
00:27:07,920 --> 00:27:11,440
Water molecules are bound to one
another by a force akin to magnetism.
279
00:27:11,640 --> 00:27:16,160
They're not attracted to molecules
of air above, so their on the surface
280
00:27:16,240 --> 00:27:19,440
have their forces concentrated
sideways,giving the surface
281
00:27:19,520 --> 00:27:23,760
a specially strong tension,
and the pond skater hunts on it.
282
00:27:26,360 --> 00:27:28,160
It's lost its prey under the leaf.
283
00:27:32,160 --> 00:27:37,200
This time there is no escape. The pond
skater stabs its victim and sucks it dry.
284
00:27:38,360 --> 00:27:42,120
It's crucially important for the pond
skater to keep meticulously clean.
285
00:27:42,280 --> 00:27:46,680
The waxy surface of its body and
the fine hairs on its feet repel water,
286
00:27:46,880 --> 00:27:51,320
but any dirt on them that is wettable
would break the surface-tension film.
287
00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:57,640
They're aggressive insects, each with
its own territory among the lily pads.
288
00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:05,600
Intruders are immediately chased away,
and fights between rivals are common.
289
00:28:10,520 --> 00:28:14,200
The surface-tension film is not only
the pond skaters' platform,
290
00:28:14,280 --> 00:28:15,840
but their sounding board.
291
00:28:16,080 --> 00:28:19,800
Through sense organs on their feet,
they can detect the vibrations caused
292
00:28:19,880 --> 00:28:24,560
by the struggles of an insect,
and by bouncing up and down
293
00:28:24,560 --> 00:28:26,040
they communicate to one another,
294
00:28:26,200 --> 00:28:31,560
sending keep-out signals to rivals and
come-hither signals to potential mates.
295
00:28:46,400 --> 00:28:50,640
Whirligig beetles use vibrations of the
surface film in a slightly different way.
296
00:28:51,080 --> 00:28:55,400
By girating they create ripples, and
by monitoring the returning echoes,
297
00:28:55,560 --> 00:28:59,040
they detect the presence of other
creatures and obstacles around them.
298
00:29:04,040 --> 00:29:07,880
They have excellent eyes,which
are partitioned so that the lower half
299
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:11,080
peers downwards to see what's
happening in the water beneath.
300
00:29:12,720 --> 00:29:15,640
Hanging from below the surface
is another hunter.
301
00:29:15,920 --> 00:29:20,280
Its tail has two tubes which penetrate
the surface film and collect air
302
00:29:20,360 --> 00:29:21,880
so that it can breathe.
303
00:29:22,080 --> 00:29:26,680
At its other end, its head has ferocious
jaws with which it seizes its prey.
304
00:29:26,880 --> 00:29:31,080
This is the larva of the giant diving
beetle, and it's caught a tadpole.
305
00:29:33,520 --> 00:29:37,440
It has to come to the surface, even
when it's adult, so it can collect air
306
00:29:37,600 --> 00:29:41,360
to sustain it on its hunting forays
down into deeper waters.
307
00:29:44,840 --> 00:29:48,120
The water boatman patrols the
surface looking for pray
308
00:29:48,200 --> 00:29:51,360
not from above, like the
pond skater, but from below.
309
00:29:52,000 --> 00:29:55,440
The two kinds of insects between
them manage to collect most of the
310
00:29:55,520 --> 00:29:58,120
creatures that have trapped
in the surface film.
311
00:29:59,040 --> 00:30:02,040
The camphor beetle lives
on plants at the water's edge,
312
00:30:02,240 --> 00:30:05,520
but it is perhaps the most versatile
of all water-walkers.
313
00:30:06,640 --> 00:30:09,240
It can run over water,
like a pond skater.
314
00:30:11,360 --> 00:30:15,600
It can also produce a substance
which greatly reduces the tension
315
00:30:15,680 --> 00:30:16,880
between water molecules.
316
00:30:17,120 --> 00:30:22,000
In emergencies it squirts this from
its tail, and with the tension pulling
317
00:30:22,080 --> 00:30:26,120
hard at the front, it shoots across
the surface so fast that the only way
318
00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:28,560
to see it clearly is in slow motion.
319
00:30:32,680 --> 00:30:36,000
And, as a final demonstration
of its versatility, it can,
320
00:30:36,080 --> 00:30:39,200
like most good beetles, fly.
321
00:30:41,520 --> 00:30:45,720
One particularly ferocious hunter
lives on the edge of lakes and ponds
322
00:30:45,800 --> 00:30:48,080
in Europe, the fishing spider.
323
00:30:49,560 --> 00:30:53,400
It uses the surface-tension film
in the same way as other spiders
324
00:30:53,480 --> 00:30:54,440
use their webs.
325
00:30:54,800 --> 00:31:00,760
With its front legs resting delicately on
the surface, it feels for tell-tale vibrations.
326
00:31:04,680 --> 00:31:09,560
But it also has excellent sight and can
see potential prey below the surface.
327
00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:15,720
The stickleback sees only the
spider's feet.
328
00:31:25,400 --> 00:31:28,200
That is a greatly slowed-down
version of the kill.
329
00:31:28,400 --> 00:31:30,760
In reality, the pounce is rapier-swift
330
00:31:30,920 --> 00:31:35,160
and the stickleback had little chance
once it strayed within range.
331
00:31:59,000 --> 00:32:02,800
The lakes and ponds fed by streams
or cut off from the main course of
332
00:32:02,880 --> 00:32:05,040
the river are comparatively small.
333
00:32:05,320 --> 00:32:09,200
But where rivers flow into basins
created by geological faults,
334
00:32:09,440 --> 00:32:12,080
their water accumulates
in immense lakes.
335
00:32:12,960 --> 00:32:17,280
This is Lake Prespa in Yugoslavia.
Not the largest of lakes but, even so,
336
00:32:17,360 --> 00:32:18,520
20 miles long.
337
00:32:18,920 --> 00:32:23,840
As the rivers enter its still waters,
they lose their impetus and drop their
338
00:32:23,920 --> 00:32:28,920
sediment, so such lakes are potentially
very fertile, and their animal inhabitants,
339
00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:32,600
no longer harassed by a perpetual
current nor hemmed in by
340
00:32:32,680 --> 00:32:36,400
a shallow bottom or narrow banks,
can proliferate, and they do.
341
00:32:37,040 --> 00:32:39,200
Fish swarm in their waters.
342
00:32:46,280 --> 00:32:49,600
And fish-eating birds,
like pelicans and cormorants,
343
00:32:49,680 --> 00:32:51,360
swarm correspondingly.
344
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:11,200
Land-based creatures haunt its margins.
345
00:33:11,440 --> 00:33:15,200
These may be its most fertile parts,
for the lack of strong currents
346
00:33:15,280 --> 00:33:18,760
in a very deep lake can leave
the bottom waters starved of oxygen,
347
00:33:19,200 --> 00:33:23,120
but in the shallows, especially when
they're warmed by the summer's sun,
348
00:33:23,200 --> 00:33:26,800
algae and other plants flourish,
small invertebrates proliferate
349
00:33:26,880 --> 00:33:30,360
and there's food for even
the least agile of hunters.
350
00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:58,320
But in one way these large lakes
are very special.
351
00:33:58,640 --> 00:34:03,000
This trout, with distinctive red spots,
lives in Lake Ohrid,
352
00:34:03,160 --> 00:34:06,800
a few miles away from Lake Prespa,
but nowhere else in the world.
353
00:34:07,400 --> 00:34:11,240
Isolated in the lake, communities
of fish become very inbred.
354
00:34:11,440 --> 00:34:15,680
Small characteristics that could be
lost in bigger populations become fixed,
355
00:34:15,760 --> 00:34:18,440
and the fish evolve into new species.
356
00:34:20,400 --> 00:34:23,040
A similar thing has happened
to the shrimps.
357
00:34:30,120 --> 00:34:34,800
And among the many different
species of water snails, several are now
358
00:34:34,880 --> 00:34:36,520
unique to Lake Ohrid.
359
00:34:41,720 --> 00:34:47,200
In the heart of Russia lies a stretch
of fresh water so huge and so ancient
360
00:34:47,280 --> 00:34:52,000
that these processes have produced
new species on a scale unequalled
361
00:34:52,080 --> 00:34:53,440
anywhere else in the world,
362
00:34:54,120 --> 00:34:55,680
Lake Baikal.
363
00:34:58,240 --> 00:35:03,000
The lake lies in a great depression
formed by faulting in the earth's crust.
364
00:35:03,160 --> 00:35:09,920
It's 400 miles long and 5,000 feet
deep, the deepest of all lakes.
365
00:35:12,800 --> 00:35:17,520
In the depths of the lake, 1,000 feet
down, lives a unique kind of salmon,
366
00:35:17,600 --> 00:35:18,760
the omul.
367
00:35:19,040 --> 00:35:23,280
In summer, they move up into the
shallows and feed on caddis fly larvae
368
00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:24,400
and sand hoppers,
369
00:35:24,640 --> 00:35:28,600
and here they're caught in great
numbers for their delicious eating.
370
00:35:39,240 --> 00:35:42,920
But this is only one of Baikal's
special inhabitan
371
00:35:43,160 --> 00:35:48,320
Of the 1,200 different kinds of fish
and other animals and 500 plants
372
00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:51,760
that it contains, over 80% are unique.
373
00:35:52,480 --> 00:35:55,200
There are unique molluscs,
unique flatworms and even
374
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:58,040
one unique mammal, the Baikal seal.
375
00:36:02,360 --> 00:36:06,480
This tiny seal is almost certainly
descended from the ringed seal
376
00:36:06,560 --> 00:36:08,080
of the Arctic Sea.
377
00:36:08,440 --> 00:36:11,680
Today the lake is over 1,000 miles
away from that sea.
378
00:36:12,040 --> 00:36:16,440
It's likely that the ancestors of these
creatures arrived during the Ice Age,
379
00:36:16,720 --> 00:36:19,560
when the journey may have been
shorter and easier.
380
00:36:20,000 --> 00:36:24,960
Since then, cut off from other ringed
seals, they've developed in their own way.
381
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:30,160
The Amazon has no great lake
on its course,
382
00:36:30,360 --> 00:36:34,960
so even in its middle stretches
it still carries mud from the Andes.
383
00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:38,200
The Rio Negro, which joins it, is clear,
384
00:36:38,440 --> 00:36:42,200
for it has come from the north-west
where the rocks are hard and bare.
385
00:36:42,720 --> 00:36:47,320
The two immense rivers flow for miles
alongside one another in the same bed,
386
00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:48,680
scarcely mixing.
387
00:36:49,600 --> 00:36:53,120
As well as sediment,
they also carry abundant nutrients,
388
00:36:53,360 --> 00:36:56,680
and life on their banks flourishes
as never before
389
00:36:58,680 --> 00:37:03,720
Herds of capybara wade through the
shallows, cropping the luxuriant plants.
390
00:37:09,960 --> 00:37:13,240
They're excellent swimmers,
with webs between their toes,
391
00:37:13,440 --> 00:37:17,440
and they have that placing of eyes,
ears and nostrils so valuable to mammals
392
00:37:17,520 --> 00:37:22,000
that swim, on top of the head,
so as the animal lies submerged,
393
00:37:22,160 --> 00:37:26,520
they can see, hear and smell what's
going on above water around them.
394
00:37:41,240 --> 00:37:45,400
Giant otters have a similar head
design and sometimes lift themselves
395
00:37:45,480 --> 00:37:48,920
above the surface to get an even
better view of their surroundings.
396
00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:58,440
This Amazonian species is the
biggest of all the worlds otters,
397
00:37:58,520 --> 00:38:01,120
six feet long and and a most
powerful swimmer.
398
00:38:01,560 --> 00:38:04,560
It's well-equipped with large,
webbed feet, a flattened tail
399
00:38:04,640 --> 00:38:06,000
and sensitive whiskers.
400
00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:11,160
A pair lays claim to a stretch of river
by making teritorial patches on the bank,
401
00:38:11,240 --> 00:38:13,840
marking them with their
own personal smell.
402
00:38:26,080 --> 00:38:29,320
There are otters in many of the
great rivers of the world and they are
403
00:38:29,400 --> 00:38:31,600
the most graceful of swimmers.
404
00:38:46,320 --> 00:38:50,400
In India they share the harvest
of fish with the gavial.
405
00:38:50,680 --> 00:38:55,240
Most members of the crocodile family,
when adult, feed largely on carrion,
406
00:38:55,440 --> 00:38:59,600
but the gavial eats only fish,
and has long, narrow jaws,
407
00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:03,280
studded with abundant teeth,
with which it catches them underwater.
408
00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:09,160
A host of birds also claim
a share of the river fish
409
00:39:09,760 --> 00:39:13,840
This is the hooded merganser, one
of a group of ducks called sawbills.
410
00:39:23,160 --> 00:39:27,800
Its beak, like the gavial's jaws,
is long and narrow so it's easily
411
00:39:27,880 --> 00:39:29,200
snapped together underwater,
412
00:39:29,440 --> 00:39:33,680
and it also has a notched edge
to give it a grip on the slippery fish.
413
00:39:37,320 --> 00:39:41,120
But their feathers trap so much air
that the pair have to work very hard
414
00:39:41,200 --> 00:39:42,760
to get down to any depths.
415
00:39:44,280 --> 00:39:46,520
Coming up again is easy enough.
416
00:39:47,560 --> 00:39:51,520
But the meal was a mere mouthful, and
the merganser must look for another one.
417
00:39:55,400 --> 00:39:58,480
And on the bottom lurks more
danger for a fish.
418
00:39:59,280 --> 00:40:00,280
A worm, perhaps?
419
00:40:05,920 --> 00:40:08,800
No, the deceiving tongue of a turtle.
420
00:40:38,120 --> 00:40:42,200
And in the sky above the river,
more trouble for a fish.
421
00:40:52,720 --> 00:40:54,400
The kingfisher.
422
00:41:18,440 --> 00:41:20,760
And there's still one left for next time.
423
00:41:23,800 --> 00:41:27,880
The fish eagle is not a diver but
a pouncer, with a marvellously
424
00:41:27,960 --> 00:41:29,320
coordinated action.
425
00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:36,920
The aerial onslaught on the fish
continues not only throughout
426
00:41:37,000 --> 00:41:38,200
the day but at night.
427
00:41:38,480 --> 00:41:41,320
An owl goes fishing in Africa.
428
00:41:46,560 --> 00:41:49,680
Its legs are bare.
Feathers would drag in the water.
429
00:41:49,880 --> 00:41:52,600
And it has spines on the
underside of its toes
430
00:41:52,680 --> 00:41:54,920
which give it a firm grasp on a fish.
431
00:42:27,960 --> 00:42:33,400
In the last phase of their lives, these
great rivers often flow out of control.
432
00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:37,840
Their tributaries far away in the
mountains, fed by the heavy storms
433
00:42:37,920 --> 00:42:40,800
of the rainy season,
pour so much water into them
434
00:42:40,880 --> 00:42:42,360
that they burst their banks.
435
00:42:44,000 --> 00:42:48,200
The Amazon rises every year to
flood tens of thousands of square
436
00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:52,280
miles of forest, in some parts
as much as 40 feet deep.
437
00:42:58,600 --> 00:43:02,600
Some of these trees are flooded
for eight to ten months every year.
438
00:43:02,880 --> 00:43:06,800
They need only a couple of months
annually out of water for them to grow
439
00:43:06,960 --> 00:43:09,400
and for their seeds to germinate
and sprout.
440
00:43:09,640 --> 00:43:12,240
We still don't know exactly
how they manage it.
441
00:43:21,320 --> 00:43:26,160
As the floods well out over the land,
fish from the river travel with them.
442
00:43:26,560 --> 00:43:30,360
This is going to be their best
feeding time in the whole year.
443
00:43:35,160 --> 00:43:37,600
And so it is for other creatures too.
444
00:43:43,080 --> 00:43:47,840
Among the fallen tree leaves that carpet
the bottom lies the mata-mata turtle,
445
00:43:48,040 --> 00:43:52,160
marvellously camouflaged,
waiting for a decent-size fish.
446
00:44:07,760 --> 00:44:10,920
And there are plenty already here,
sheltering, like the turtle,
447
00:44:11,000 --> 00:44:13,520
among the still unrotted leaves.
448
00:44:20,680 --> 00:44:24,120
Piranha are here too.
These are not the flesh-eating kind.
449
00:44:24,360 --> 00:44:29,280
Their teeth are used for
something different: Fruit
450
00:44:47,040 --> 00:44:52,040
As the river becomes older and older,
its riches increase still further.
451
00:44:55,240 --> 00:45:00,000
All over the world as rivers approach
their end, they begin to deposit the sand
452
00:45:00,080 --> 00:45:04,040
and mud that they've gathered
from so far and carried for so long.
453
00:45:04,320 --> 00:45:08,760
In many parts of the world reeds grow
thickly on these shoals and banks,
454
00:45:08,960 --> 00:45:12,480
and their stems collect even more
sediment as the river waters
455
00:45:12,560 --> 00:45:13,840
swirl through them.
456
00:45:14,840 --> 00:45:18,160
Living in these dense reed beds
requires considerable skill.
457
00:45:18,560 --> 00:45:22,160
The little bittern somehow or other
is able to find its nest
458
00:45:22,360 --> 00:45:26,680
hidden out of sight somewhere in this
seemingly uniform stretch of reeds.
459
00:45:30,080 --> 00:45:35,440
It regurgitates from its crop ample
supplies of fish and frogs for its young.
460
00:45:47,560 --> 00:45:52,440
Their world is an infinity of vertical
stems, but they're nimble climbers
461
00:45:52,520 --> 00:45:56,360
from an early age, and they leave the
nest within a few days of hatching.
462
00:46:06,080 --> 00:46:09,600
There they wait, almost invisible,
for their parents to return with
463
00:46:09,680 --> 00:46:11,240
restocked crops.
464
00:46:31,000 --> 00:46:35,080
The reed-clogged waters of a river
delta are full of potential riches,
465
00:46:35,240 --> 00:46:38,000
not only for birds but for human beings.
466
00:46:38,480 --> 00:46:40,960
The reeds themselves
are used for many purposes,
467
00:46:41,040 --> 00:46:43,040
but it's not an easy life here.
468
00:46:43,560 --> 00:46:46,240
Firm land on which to live
is hard to find.
469
00:46:46,600 --> 00:46:50,400
In the delta of the Danube,
the few solid sandbanks are tightly
470
00:46:50,480 --> 00:46:51,720
packed with dwellings.
471
00:46:52,040 --> 00:46:55,800
Earth has to be conserved with
piles to prevent a slight change
472
00:46:55,880 --> 00:46:57,880
in the current from washing it away.
473
00:46:58,440 --> 00:47:01,880
And there's the ever present threat
of a rise in the water level caused
474
00:47:01,960 --> 00:47:06,280
not only by heavy rainstorms
upstream but an unusually high tide,
475
00:47:06,360 --> 00:47:09,960
backed by a storm sweeping up
from the sea, which can cause
476
00:47:10,000 --> 00:47:11,560
devastating floods.
477
00:47:14,040 --> 00:47:17,840
In the twin joined deltas
of the Tigris and Euphrates in Iraq,
478
00:47:18,040 --> 00:47:22,440
the marsh Arabs have become
specialists in an amphibian life.
479
00:47:29,920 --> 00:47:33,200
Their houses seem to have
solid enough foundations.
480
00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:37,680
In fact, they are floating
on rafts of reeds.
481
00:47:54,120 --> 00:47:56,720
Some are the most elaborate
constructions,
482
00:47:56,920 --> 00:48:03,080
yet all these soaring arches and roofs
are also made from bundles of reeds.
483
00:48:03,680 --> 00:48:08,600
And reeds provide food for the
livestock, so gathering them is a daily
484
00:48:08,680 --> 00:48:10,520
and never-ending chore.
485
00:48:25,440 --> 00:48:28,720
The herds have to be as much
at home in the water are they are
486
00:48:28,800 --> 00:48:30,640
on their floating platforms.
487
00:48:40,200 --> 00:48:44,000
The rewards of this precarious
existence are, of course, the abundant
488
00:48:44,080 --> 00:48:47,960
fish which live all around the houses
and even underneath them.
489
00:48:51,880 --> 00:48:55,920
So the fish and the marsh Arabs
and the pelicans all flourish
490
00:48:56,000 --> 00:48:57,440
in one integrated community.
491
00:48:57,640 --> 00:49:01,840
The river has finely delivered the
minerals it eroded from the mountains
492
00:49:01,920 --> 00:49:04,880
and the nutrients it collected
from the forests.
493
00:49:05,440 --> 00:49:08,960
They sustain plants which are the
food for small animals which are
494
00:49:09,040 --> 00:49:13,720
eaten by bigger fish and which are
gathered by great flocks of birds
495
00:49:13,920 --> 00:49:18,320
that, from the tropics to the Arctic,
are the glories of the deltas.
496
00:49:24,800 --> 00:49:28,160
A blizzard of snow geese
in northern Canada.
497
00:49:34,440 --> 00:49:37,760
Across the world in the tropics,
on a delta in Papua New Guinea,
498
00:49:37,840 --> 00:49:39,200
magpie geese.
499
00:49:48,000 --> 00:49:51,120
In Australia, brolga cranes.
500
00:49:58,960 --> 00:50:01,800
Scarlet ibis in Venezuela.
501
00:50:04,000 --> 00:50:09,640
Plovers on almost any delta in the world.
And, equally widespread, stilts.
502
00:50:25,440 --> 00:50:27,800
Flamingos in Africa.
503
00:50:37,200 --> 00:50:38,800
And spoonbills.
504
00:50:46,040 --> 00:50:50,840
Of all the deltas in the world, none
is greater than that of the Amazon.
505
00:50:59,360 --> 00:51:02,880
For hundreds of miles along
its lower course, the river has been
506
00:51:02,960 --> 00:51:07,040
so broad that it has been impossible
to see from one side to another.
507
00:51:07,520 --> 00:51:10,880
Now, instead of receiving more
tributaries, it splits into
508
00:51:10,960 --> 00:51:12,800
a tangle of separate channels.
509
00:51:15,640 --> 00:51:21,120
And on the last firm land on its banks
stands a great and thriving port,
510
00:51:21,600 --> 00:51:25,360
for the river is so wide and deep
that cargo ships from overseas
511
00:51:25,520 --> 00:51:30,400
can use it as a highway that can take
them for 1,000 miles into the heart
512
00:51:30,480 --> 00:51:31,960
of South America.
513
00:51:33,840 --> 00:51:37,200
The Amazon's vital statistics
are astounding.
514
00:51:37,480 --> 00:51:42,400
At any one time, two thirds of all
the river water in the world is flowing
515
00:51:42,480 --> 00:51:43,480
between its banks.
516
00:51:43,800 --> 00:51:48,640
Here at its mouth, at Belem,
it's 200 miles across a maze
517
00:51:48,640 --> 00:51:49,840
of channels and islands,
518
00:51:50,120 --> 00:51:53,960
one of which is, alone,
bigger than the whole of Switzerland.
519
00:51:54,120 --> 00:51:58,960
The river maintains its identity far
into the sea. It was because
520
00:51:59,040 --> 00:52:00,560
of this that it was discovered.
521
00:52:00,640 --> 00:52:05,560
In 1499 a Spanish sea captain,
sailing well beyond the sight of land,
522
00:52:05,720 --> 00:52:10,840
suddenly became aware that the water
he was crossing was fresh and not salty.
523
00:52:11,080 --> 00:52:14,600
He turned west and discovered
this immense river.
524
00:52:14,840 --> 00:52:19,360
Indeed, it's not until 100 miles
beyond the edge of the continent
525
00:52:19,520 --> 00:52:25,040
that particles of water which fell on
the Andes complete their 4,000-mile
526
00:52:25,120 --> 00:52:29,360
long journey and mingle with
the salt water of the ocean.
527
00:52:34,400 --> 00:52:38,400
But far along the coast, where the
thrust of the river flood is not so great,
528
00:52:38,480 --> 00:52:40,360
is a halfway house.
529
00:52:40,840 --> 00:52:44,680
Here the water is neither fresh
nor salt, but brackish.
530
00:52:44,920 --> 00:52:48,280
It's neither land nor sea,
but banks of mud and sand
531
00:52:48,480 --> 00:52:52,120
that are half the time submerged
and half the time exposed.
532
00:52:52,360 --> 00:52:58,000
And that intermediate, ever-changing
territory is where we will be next time.
533
00:52:58,050 --> 00:53:02,600
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