All language subtitles for Travel.Quest.With.Bill.Ball.S02E03.CONVERT.1080p.HDTV.H264-CBFM

Last year, I visited the land
of Genghis Khan - Mongolia,

to meet the last truly nomadic people
and nation on earth.

But as often happens, I learned
of two other exciting sites

worthy of a quest.

First, seeking out the elusive,
never domesticated wild horses,

the endangered Przewalski horse.

Second, on the way to Mongolia,

I am going to stop in one of the most
remote places on earth,

and it will give me a chance to check
off another of my life's goals -

seeing Siberia and the world's
largest freshwater body, Lake Baikal.

So if everything goes right,

I will be able to check off two
quests in two different countries.

Let this great adventure begin.

Since I was young,

I had an intense desire
to discover the world around me.

That hasn't changed.
Just the level of adventure.

Now every journey has a purpose.

And each time I venture out
to explore new destinations

around the globe,

I am following my travel quest.

This is a trip that will literally
take me around the world.

We will fly east through Moscow
to reach Siberia

and, more specifically,
the city of Irkutsk.

From Irkutsk, it is a relatively
short flight to Ulaanbaatar,

the capital of Mongolia.

Then the most direct return flight
from Irkutsk goes through China

and returns to the US from the west.

Siberia is a vast land, making up
a large part of modern Russia.

It would be the largest
country in the world

if it was its own nation.

Its population, though,
is smaller than metro Tokyo,

with about 34 million people.

I came to Siberia
with many preconceived ideas,

most of which were quickly dispelled.

There is not snow here year round.
Not even close.

This is not tundra.

Though some parts are,
most is forest-covered.

There aren't gulags all over -

rather regular,
normal-looking cities.

And best of all,
the people were happy...

Thank you very much.

..friendly and open.

These myths were so easily dispersed

that I was afraid that
my two primary goals

would somehow vanish as well.

I wanted to dive in Lake Baikal,

one of the seven diving wonders
of the world,

and to get to know what life was like

in a place that I grew up
thinking was fit only for

the political dissidents
of the old communist USSR.

Siberia is so big
we had to select a base of operation

and we chose Irkutsk.

This town is about 3,000 miles
from Moscow,

located in south-central Siberia,

near the border of Mongolia,

with a population of about 620,000.

This is a small big city...
or a big small city.

But however you want to say it,

Irkutsk is much bigger
and more modern

than the stereotype of Siberia
would have us believe.

Before you can understand
the present,

you must know a bit about its past.

Siberia wasn't always
a part of Russia.

The ethnic people of Siberia
are Asian in descent -

not really a surprise when you look
at its position in...Asia.

Territory wise, the vast majority
of Russia is in Asia, not Europe.

Today, Siberia accounts for

about one quarter of
the total population of Russia.

To get a feel for how the locals
live, you go to their market.

In virtually all cultures,
ethnic and religious groups,

food is somehow at the core
of their lifestyle.

Could be what to or what not to eat,
but food is where it all begins.

The market set-up is pretty much
in line with natural markets

all around the world.

In the Western world, we go to chain
stores to buy most of our food.

We have some farmer markets,

but they account for a tiny fraction
of our purchases.

Everyone shops from
individual vendors

who specialise
in a particular foodstuff.

The biggest asset here is Lake Baikal
and its wealth of freshwater fish.

Not all people have refrigerators,

so I was curious
how that would play out.

Right, so...
(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

So first step, they cut it open
and salt it.

Da.
(MAN TRANSLATES TO RUSSIAN)

Then the second step,
they let it sit for 10 hours.

(TRANSLATES TO RUSSIAN)
OK.

Then like that.
OK.

Like six, seven hours, air dried.
OK.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)
Alright.

And in the evening,
they put it into the smoking oven.

OK. And then after three days
of smoking...

(TRANSLATES)

Now, how would you eat it?

Now you've got it all done,
it's all done, how would you eat it?

(TRANSLATES)

Oh. Oh, you just take it right off?
Da.

The key is drying the fish just right

that it retains the flavour
and preserves it.

Just take it and eat it now?
Da.

Very good.

Mmm! That's good.

It's really good.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

The market is full of both
the usual and unusual foods.

Usual foods for a Westerner,
like berries, are plentiful -

though I must admit
an overabundance of berries

is not what I would have expected
in Siberia.

I've got hands full
of cherries and berries.

Mmm. Mix the cherry
and the berry together,

and I can make a juice.

The range of vegetables grown here
was astounding.

Every conceivable type
could be found,

and they all looked delicious.

The supermarkets back home

had nothing on this all-natural
and organic venue.

In fact, the fresh produce
looked and tasted as good -

better, maybe - than back home.

Even ingredients like pine nuts
were fresh.

These are fresh pine nuts
from the cedar pines here,

and I've been told all you have to do

is kind of bite into them
and break them open.

And you eat the nut
out of the inside. And it's good.

I know in America
we use it for cooking.

Here they just eat them.

For items that did
need refrigeration,

at least to preserve the goods
until sold,

there was a more modern building

with individual proprietors
selling their wares.

The one that really caught my eye
were the milk products,

cheeses and yogurts.

This is another staple
of the Siberian diet.

That is really good.

The predominant producers of cheese
and other dairy products

are the indigenous people.

Those were recipes and techniques
that go back to the time

when this was an autonomous region
under the khan.

The Mongolians,
where the government originated,

still rely heavily on cheese
and other dairy products.

The parallels are unmistakable.

And like their ancestors
from the steppes of Mongolia,

the indigenous people
and the European Russians

all love their meat.

It is sold here in ways Western
tourists can appreciate

and in ways they may not.

As I was about to leave the market,

my host dared me to try
a local drink.

I can't resist a dare,
especially on a new experience.

So this is kvass, prepared
the same way from Soviet times.

Na zdorovie.

That's quite good.

It's not bad. It's...
Smells of bread, doesn't it?

Yeah. It's, uh...

It's like a drink made from bread.

The market isn't just food.

It also has locally made products,

from jewellery featuring
an indigenous semi-precious stone
called charoite

to furs from lynx, wolf and sable

to carved artists' pieces.

Just about anything you might want,
you can find here.

I just... We did, we filmed a bit.
You can just take a piece right off.

(WOMAN SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY)
Yeah. It's really...

It's very, very good,
and I don't eat fish.

Oh, I like fish.

OK, enough.

I was getting a real feel
for the people and their lifestyle.

They were way more open,
friendly and funny,

and had more locally grown options
than I could ever have imagined.

I felt like I had a good start

understanding the local culture
and traditions,

but I was missing one major element

that has become so important
to Russians - religion.

During the communist Soviet era,
religion was virtually banned.

Anyone confessing religious beliefs

were banned from public jobs
and government opportunities.

That changed dramatically
with the end of the USSR.

Russians embraced religion, the
Russian Orthodox faith, with zeal.

Churches that had been converted

to public offices,
museums and farm sheds

were renovated and reopened.

It was unbelievable.

Religion had not died
under communism.

It just stayed behind
the closed doors of each home.

Russian Orthodox,
like all Orthodox faiths,

is an ancient Christian church,

breaking away from the Roman
Catholics over 1,000 years ago.

The church interiors are
distinctive, featuring large icons

depicting Christ, Mary,
saints and prophets.

Behind the icons is a sanctuary
where only the priests are allowed.

This is a conservative
Christian sect

that has remained steadfast
to its earliest roots.

(BELLS PEAL)

I witnessed the destruction of almost
every stereotype, myth and legend

that I had heard about Siberia
and its people,

and that is just what travel does.

The name itself, Siberia,
is used as a metaphor

for remote, desolate exile.

How far from the truth!

So having learned and experienced
the culture and people,

it was time to go for my quest -

diving in the frigid, giant
Lake Baikal.

When it was time
to get my first glimpse

of the mammoth body of water,

it did not disappoint.

It was beautiful.

Just seeing this UNESCO World
Heritage site was not enough for me.

I had to experience it first-hand

in as many ways as I could
in one afternoon.

That meant a boat ride
on the crystal-clear waters

and a chance to scuba dive
in its frigid depths.

First stop was boating along the lake
to get a preview of its topside

before I go under the waves.

The lake has become a recreation hub
for locals and other Russians.

It has been named a UNESCO World
Heritage site for its geography,

created by a rift valley
running through it,

and its unique wildlife.

It doesn't take long and we are
out of the developed area

and seeing the pristine wilderness

that surrounds
this massive inland sea.

Because of the depth,
the temperature of the water

doesn't get higher
than 46 degrees Fahrenheit.

The lake overview done,

it was time to do
what I had primarily come for -

dive Lake Baikal.

There are several dive operators
located along the shore,

so finding one is not a problem.

The gearing-up process
is way more complicated

than what I have been used to diving
in tropical or even temperate waters.

At 46 degrees Fahrenheit,

the water
will pull your body heat away

and hypothermia can set in
with deadly speed.

This is not a dive for inexperienced
or faint of heart.

Every diving skill I have learned
in my years of warm weather diving

would be tested.

No part of my body could be left
exposed to the cold.

I knew the temperatures
would drop a few more degrees

as we would descend.

This might well be one of the most
dangerous things I have done.

Back in my late 20s,
just a few years ago,

I saw a list of seven
of the great places to dive,

and I've gotten to six of them.

So I'm at my seventh one now,
Lake Baikal.

But there's one catch.

The other six
were all tropical waters.

This is a cold freshwater lake,
thus all the extra gear.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

This is go down.
Yep.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)
If any problem, you...

Yeah.
(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

Then after if you show
there is a problem,

then the next gesture is to show
other...you cannot go up.

Right. So, clear your ears.
Yeah. Very good.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

If it's hard to breathe,
then be sure to regulate.

OK.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

If you are cold, embrace yourself.
Mm-hm.

(SPEAKS RUSSIAN)

If other problems with leg,
just show them.

OK.

The weight of the gear,
the extremely tight wetsuit

made it difficult to breathe before
even entering the frigid waters.

I felt the cold immediately.

It was now or never.

Almost instantly,
I had trouble breathing.

The lower we descended,
it seemed harder to get air.

Below 60 feet,
I could barely get a breath.

I had trouble focusing.

I signalled the dive master.
He grabbed me.

I can't breathe.

When we broke the surface,

I sucked in as much air
as my lungs could hold.

I was a bit out of it,
but recovered quickly.

I had just dodged a deadly bullet.

It was cool,
until I had trouble breathing.

The water is so cold out there -
about 46 degrees.

With my first quest done -

I did see, cruise in and for
a short time dive in Lake Baikal -

it was time to continue to Mongolia.

I had been there last year
and fulfilled my quest

to meet one of the last
truly nomadic people in the world.

While there, I had learned
about the reintroduction

of the endangered,
extinct in the wild,

beautiful Przewalski's horse.

I knew then that I had to
see one in the wild.

I had run out of time,
so a return trip was arranged.

From Irkutsk to Ulaanbaatar
is surprisingly easy,

with several flights
between the two cities.

The distance is short -
less than 500 miles.

So after a short flight,
I was back in Mongolia.

The drive from the capital
to Hustai National Park,

where the horses were introduced,
takes about two hours.

So, what should have been a quick,
easy ride turned dangerous

as a rainstorm came upon us
out of nowhere.

But this time luck was on our side.

The storm passed
as quickly as it came.

The roads, though slick,
were drivable

and we continued to our destination.

At the edge of the national park

was one of the most scenic areas
in all of Mongolia,

with probably the most famous
natural wonder in eastern Mongolia -

Turtle Rock.

Like most rock formations
turned into an imaginary creature,

it must be viewed
from the right angle.

It's not hard with this rock,
since it's right next to the road.

This turtle has a STONE-cold glare
that ROCKS your sanity.

Alright, no more geology jokes.

This is a great area to relax

and just get away from the vast
plains just east of here.

There are several ger camps

for the would-be traveller
or mountain hiker to choose from.

The area has a very western US look
to it, like Utah or Colorado.

It is certainly not what I expected
from Mongolia.

From Turtle Rock,

it is a short drive
to Hustai National Park,

home to the wild Przewalski's horse,

and the fulfilment of
my second quest for this trip.

What we have come to see
at this world-famous national park

is the basis to all of
Mongolia's glorious past

and even much of its present.

This is one of the only couple
of wildlife refuges

where the last truly wild horses
still roam.

Unfortunately, they went extinct
in the wild about 40 years ago.

A handful in captivity
made up the breeding pool

that ultimately allowed
their reintroduction here.

We were driving for over an hour
without a single horse sighting,

even a distant one.

I was beginning to think
that we would be shut out,

but then some movement on the hill.

Two takhi.

This is one of the greatest
success stories for conservation

in the last century.

We've now been able to reintroduce
the takhi back into the wild.

Behind me is 1% of the total
wild population

of these rare wild horses.

This was a very special moment
for me.

I had never seen
true wild horses before.

Sure, I had seen zebra, their
cousins, on many occasions in Africa

but these are true horses.

I was in awe being able
to witness their comeback

from the brink of extinction.

One of those great life moments,

but it was potentially
going to get even better.

A ranger informed us
that a family group with a colt

was just down the road.

Sure enough,
not even 15 minutes away

was a stallion, mare and their colt.

This was both surreal
and invigorating.

This was proof
that the reintroduction was working -

the next generation born wild.

After completing my quest,
I was ready to sit back and relax

but that was not to be.

A local family came to our camp
riding yaks.

Now, most people
have never seen a yak,

let alone seen someone riding one.

But it only got better.

My friends and I were invited
to ride the yaks ourselves.

How cool is that?

When you're not a yakman -
is that even a word? -

it can be a bit embarrassing.

I had one solace. At least I didn't
have a three-year-old pulling my yak.

I had no clue where we were going
or, more important, why.

It didn't take long, though, when
all things started to become clear.

We were being brought to
a family's ger

to celebrate something with them.

What they were celebrating
surprised me.

Moving!

Every family moves in Mongolia
to follow the good grazing,

but to celebrate a move seemed so...
so not us.

But then they look at life
a bit different.

They celebrate
the plenty they got here

and the riches in grasslands and
livestock in where they are going.

It is a very positive outlook.

Music is an important part
of Mongolian life.

They celebrate life through music,

and a Mongolian tradition
is throat singing.

(SINGS)

This is a tradition that was carried
over the Bering Strait ice bridge

as the first people
came to the new world.

Alaskans and northern Canadian
Inuit still throat sing.

The host indicated they had
a surprise for us outside.

Horses.

Are we going to ride them or...?

No? Not eat them?

Ohh...

Oh! Oh! (LAUGHS)
I got this one so wrong.

They were going to milk the horses

to get the basis of
the fermented mare's milk.

Fermented mare's milk is
the country's special drink.

It was something that
I had to get used to

the first time I was here last year.

I had almost forgotten
how bad it tastes.

The women milk
with the men's assistance.

They're old pros at it.

One of my travelling friends,
Tabitha, tries her hand at it.

It was hard to tell who enjoyed
the experience more -

Tabitha or the lady of the house.

The milking seemed to signal
the family to hitch up the animals

and move out.

Two to four times a year,

depending on the quality
of the livestock grazing,

families move.

This is only possible

because Mongolia is the least densely
populated country in the world.

Everything goes in a move.

Even the gers come down.
They are mobile.

Essentially a wood frame
with a wood belt tied around it,

they can be put up or taken down
in a matter of minutes.

These are expert packers.

No need to con friends into helping
or calling a professional mover.

They are the best.

The last of the true nomads
on earth.

Like our new friends,
we had to be nomads ourselves

and head back to the big city.

We only had a day left before we
would have to head back to the US -

a land where a person
that moves once every other year

is considered a nomad.

Ulaanbaatar, the biggest
and only major city in Mongolia,

has a population of around
1.4 million people.

It is growing rapidly as the next
generation of Mongolians go to school

and decide farming is not for them.

There is a change
flowing over the country

as it moves into
the next decade or so,

and much of what we saw
may become a thing of the past.

This was one of my
most memorable trips,

achieving two quests
in two different countries.

I got to see, cruise and dive
Lake Baikal,

and I found the last
wild horses in the world,

doing well
after their reintroduction.

But the best part was not
the quests, but meeting the people -

friendly, open and sharing.

That is what travel is all about.