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GONG
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JANE MCDONALD:
'I'm going big in Japan
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'on a solo adventure like no other
I've ever experienced.'
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It's a very famous crossing.
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It's crazy, it's fantastic.
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'And with stacks of online research
and my trusty guidebooks,
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'I'm going to discover
the history and culture
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'of this breathtaking country.'
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Wow. Gosh, look at that.
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'I'm travelling alone,
but won't be lonely,
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'as I've enlisted
a host of expert locals
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'to reveal Japan's history,
culture and secrets to me.'
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Oh, summat came over me!
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'I'm now in the city described
as the Japanese capital of food,
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'Osaka.'
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That's one of the best things
I've tasted in Japan.
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'A place where modernism lives
side-by-side with tradition..."
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Looks nothing like yours!
SHE LAUGHS
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'..and where the people
are open and welcoming.'
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Konnichiwa.
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We are friends.
Oh!
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'A place that's full of fun,
wonderment and excitement.'
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You're just like me.
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You can eat a packet of biscuits
in one go, can't you?
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'Welcome to Osaka.'
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I'm going to have my first
octopus balls. Oh, yeah!
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GONG
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'I've travelled the world,
but nothing's prepared me
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'for the sheer jaw-dropping
culture-shocking rush of Japan.
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'I've been astonished
by the awesome enormity of Tokyo
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'and the Zen-like peace of Kyoto,
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'but now I'm heading south
for the next leg.'
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I'm off to Osaka.
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I've got my PASMO card here.
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You can top it up anywhere,
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but I can use this
anywhere in Japan.
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So here we go.
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{\i1}'My PASMO card is a cashless way
of traveling,{\i0}
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'and takes all the stress
out of carrying local currency.
40
00:02:06,620 --> 00:02:11,310
'Japanese trains are an iconic way
of travelling around this country,
41
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'whether it's the super-modern
super-fast bullet train
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'that travels at 200 miles per hour,
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'or this tourist
sightseeing express,
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'which combines Japan's traditional
architectural styles with nature.
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'This journey gives me the chance
to kick back, relax
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'and soak up my surroundings.'
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Look at this! We've got a garden.
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There's a garden on the train!
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I love this train.
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Attention to detail
is absolutely incredible.
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These are all made
of wood and leather
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to help you up or make you stand.
53
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And each carriage has got
its own little... personality.
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Everything is all about
making you feel better.
55
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'This short but luxurious hop
from Kyoto to Osaka
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'takes just 45 minutes.
57
00:03:11,060 --> 00:03:15,310
'It takes in beautiful views,
including the Yodo River.
58
00:03:15,340 --> 00:03:19,710
"My guidebook says Osaka
is culturally different,
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'younger, cooler and hipper,
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'so I'm gonna enjoy the peace
a little longer."
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It's a nice leisurely journey,
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and I think,
if I've learnt something from Kyoto,
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it's to take it slower,
a little bit slower.
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"One thing I've noticed
on my Japanese travels
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'is that you can tell a lot
about a city
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'from its railway stations.
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'This one's less busy than Tokyo,
but more energetic than Kyoto.
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'I've arrived right in the centre,
where I'm staying.
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"Perfect for getting to grips
with what makes this place tick.'
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And now we're here in your room.
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Right.
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Welcome.
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Ooh, look at t'size of this!
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'This room,
like many things here in Japan,
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'is designed beautifully.
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00:04:10,580 --> 00:04:12,550
'But I've got my eye on the sweets.
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'Back home, you get a chocolate
on the pillow.
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'Here, it's candyfloss bonsai.'
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I'll have such a sugar hit,
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I'll be running round here
in a minute. Whoa!
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The little...
The little shortbread biscuits,
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they're gorgeous.
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Oh, it's lovely.
84
00:04:33,580 --> 00:04:37,390
'Before I venture out
to this sprawling metropolis,
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00:04:37,420 --> 00:04:39,110
'I'm going to do
a bit more research.
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'Leaving my hotel on foot,
87
00:04:44,060 --> 00:04:47,470
'I'm instantly hit
by these fantastic waterways.
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{\i1}'And they make up 10%
of the entire city.{\i0}
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00:04:51,260 --> 00:04:55,150
It's, I'd say, the Venice of Japan.
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It's full of little canals
and cafes.
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00:04:59,740 --> 00:05:03,950
"Osaka is the third biggest city
in Japan,
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'and is visited by an eye-watering
39 million tourists each year.
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'This place is heaving,
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'but there is one billboard
that's got everybody's attention.'
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What's everybody doing here?
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00:05:19,020 --> 00:05:21,870
What are they taking
a photograph of?
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00:05:25,220 --> 00:05:27,710
They're taking a photograph of that?
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They seem to be all taking
photographs of that... man.
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Running man.
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'OK, so when in Osaka,
get a selfie with a poster.
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'But why?
102
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'Well, fortunately,
this city is full of friendly folk
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'who have the answers.'
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I can't do it.
How are you going there?
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Hi.
You look a bit lost.
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What's happening?
I am, actually.
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00:05:55,660 --> 00:05:57,430
What is the... Why are we taking...
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Is everybody taking
a picture of that?
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That is the Glico Man,
the face of Osaka.
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It's been up there
for quite a while,
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more than 80 years.
Really?
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00:06:06,420 --> 00:06:10,070
Yeah, so when you think of Osaka,
that is what you think of.
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So do you take a picture of that?
114
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Yeah, you want me to take a picture?
All right. Let's do it.
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Right.
Three... two...
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one.
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Got it. Nice one.
118
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Look at that, I can balance.
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Satisfied?
Oh, yeah.
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That's pretty good.
121
00:06:28,060 --> 00:06:30,470
{\i1}'In all this excitement,
we forget one thing.'{\i0}
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What's you name?
Oh, Jane.
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I'm Jane. Your name?
Andy.
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Lovely to meet you, Andy.
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I've just arrived in Osaka.
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This is the place you want to be.
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Is there much to see here?
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Oh, yeah,
there's a great range of stuff.
129
00:06:44,300 --> 00:06:46,670
There's a little moss temple...
Yeah?
130
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Yeah, just round the corner.
A temple here?
131
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Just head over that way, and I'll
show you what it's all about.
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00:06:52,140 --> 00:06:53,910
Oh, thank you.
133
00:06:53,940 --> 00:06:57,350
'Well, there's clearly
a lot to learn about Osaka.
134
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'And whilst my guidebooks are great,
135
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'if you want the real
local knowledge,
136
00:07:01,740 --> 00:07:04,150
'use the knowledge of a local.'
137
00:07:04,180 --> 00:07:07,430
So, this is the main...
The main drag?
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The main drag of Osaka.
139
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It's called Dotonbori.
140
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So, this is a landmark restaurant,
141
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and it's six floors
full of crab dishes.
142
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'What instantly hits you
about Dotonbori
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'is fun bursting
from every shopfront.
144
00:07:25,860 --> 00:07:29,030
'Every square inch
demands your attention,
145
00:07:29,060 --> 00:07:31,510
'but it's not all about
bright lights."
146
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So, we're gonna go down this alley.
147
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Are you sure?
Yeah, it's fine.
148
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This is Japan. It's super safe.
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It's part of Hozenji Yokocho.
150
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OK.
And it's a real hidden gem.
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Right, then, I'll follow you.
152
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There's a lot of history
on the walls here.
153
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Yeah.
Just about the traditions
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and the past, how they are living.
Yeah.
155
00:07:52,620 --> 00:07:54,510
And...
156
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'In Osaka, even the walls
have a story to tell.'
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What a fascinating place.
158
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Yeah, it's... It is, it's great.
159
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Ah, sumimasen.
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Sumimasen.
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This way.
162
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And this is part
of a network of alleys.
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Yeah.
And in Japanese we "yokocho".
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Yokocho.
That means alley.
165
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Right. I'm being taken
up the yokocho.
166
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Yeah. So you'll be in good stead.
Yeah.
167
00:08:23,940 --> 00:08:28,270
'Yes, sometimes going off-road
can lead to the unexpected.
168
00:08:28,300 --> 00:08:31,470
"And at the end of the yokocho,
that's what I get.
169
00:08:36,580 --> 00:08:39,390
'You know, I've come to love
Japan's ability to jump
170
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'from crazy busy to peaceful oasis
in just a few steps.
171
00:08:44,500 --> 00:08:48,470
'But no chance to relax,
as Andy wants to put me on the spot.
172
00:08:50,420 --> 00:08:52,550
I got a question for you, actually.
Yeah.
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00:08:52,580 --> 00:08:54,710
You've been around Japan a bit.
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00:08:54,740 --> 00:08:57,030
Is this a temple, or is it a shrine?
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I know that shrines have got a gate.
176
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So it's a temple.
It's a temple, correct.
177
00:09:01,860 --> 00:09:03,590
Yay! I got it right.
178
00:09:03,620 --> 00:09:05,830
For a couple of reasons.
179
00:09:05,860 --> 00:09:08,510
A shrine's a different religion.
Yeah.
180
00:09:08,540 --> 00:09:10,710
So, the Shinto religion,
the Shinto faith.
181
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And temples are...
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Buddhism.
You got it.
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00:09:13,260 --> 00:09:14,350
Yes!
Yes, yes.
184
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So, you can see the omnipresent
buddhas here.
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00:09:17,620 --> 00:09:19,110
Right here at the front.
186
00:09:19,140 --> 00:09:21,750
But over there,
you can see something different,
187
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a moss-covered man.
Yeah.
188
00:09:23,940 --> 00:09:26,150
And he is called Fudo Myo-o.
189
00:09:26,180 --> 00:09:28,350
He's actually the god of fury.
190
00:09:28,380 --> 00:09:29,910
Really?
Yeah.
191
00:09:29,940 --> 00:09:31,950
A lady used to come here and pray,
192
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and she had a particular way
of doing things,
193
00:09:34,660 --> 00:09:37,630
and this is the only place
that they do it in Japan.
194
00:09:37,660 --> 00:09:40,310
What they do is...
They put a coin in there?
195
00:09:40,340 --> 00:09:41,950
You can put a coin in there.
196
00:09:41,980 --> 00:09:43,630
Generally it's a five yen coin.
197
00:09:43,660 --> 00:09:45,350
Right.
And then you go up to...
198
00:09:45,380 --> 00:09:47,910
Here, and then you get the ladle,
199
00:09:47,940 --> 00:09:52,110
and then you vigorously splash
the water on Fudo Myo-o,
200
00:09:52,140 --> 00:09:54,190
and it's said that if you do that,
201
00:09:54,220 --> 00:09:56,870
your dreams and your prayers,
and your desires will come true.
202
00:09:56,900 --> 00:09:58,150
Really?
203
00:09:58,180 --> 00:09:59,550
You want to have a go?
Yes, I do.
204
00:09:59,580 --> 00:10:00,710
I want them all to come true.
205
00:10:00,740 --> 00:10:02,470
So...
206
00:10:02,500 --> 00:10:04,390
I'm gonna throw that in there.
207
00:10:04,420 --> 00:10:06,750
Yeah, that's... yeah.
And then...
208
00:10:12,180 --> 00:10:13,910
And then around here.
209
00:10:13,940 --> 00:10:16,190
Make your way over there.
OK.
210
00:10:16,220 --> 00:10:17,750
Pick up the ladle.
211
00:10:17,780 --> 00:10:20,910
What you can do is just pour it over
the top of the buddhas' heads.
212
00:10:20,940 --> 00:10:23,270
One over there, one over there.
213
00:10:23,300 --> 00:10:24,710
OK.
214
00:10:26,420 --> 00:10:28,990
And then vigorously splash
Fudo Myo-o.
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00:10:29,020 --> 00:10:30,230
Vigorously.
216
00:10:30,260 --> 00:10:31,550
Oh! Missed it.
217
00:10:31,580 --> 00:10:33,070
That's perfect.
Yeah.
218
00:10:34,340 --> 00:10:37,270
Got you. And one more for luck.
219
00:10:38,420 --> 00:10:39,750
Yeah.
220
00:10:42,580 --> 00:10:47,070
'I've really come to appreciate how,
for the Japanese people,
221
00:10:47,100 --> 00:10:50,870
'spirituality is woven into
the fabric of daily Lives.
222
00:10:50,900 --> 00:10:54,630
'The ability to reflect
and show gratitude
223
00:10:54,660 --> 00:10:58,670
'in even the busiest places
is central to the Japanese way.
224
00:10:58,700 --> 00:11:01,590
'And I'll try to take a bit of that
home with me.'
225
00:11:03,500 --> 00:11:06,310
That's right.
I hope you enjoy Osaka.
226
00:11:06,340 --> 00:11:08,150
Thank you.
And all the best.
227
00:11:08,180 --> 00:11:10,590
Thank you so much, Andy.
Absolute pleasure, Jane.
228
00:11:10,620 --> 00:11:13,470
That's just lovely to meet you.
All the very best.
229
00:11:13,500 --> 00:11:15,750
I'll be off.
All right, love. Bye-bye.
230
00:11:21,660 --> 00:11:23,990
I am shocked and humbled
231
00:11:24,020 --> 00:11:30,270
by how kind and helpful
they genuinely are here in Japan.
232
00:11:30,300 --> 00:11:33,430
And I'm really, really pleased
I met Andy.
233
00:11:33,460 --> 00:11:35,910
I just wish he'd told me
how to get back.
234
00:11:35,940 --> 00:11:37,550
But I'll just ask somebody else.
235
00:11:40,340 --> 00:11:41,870
'Coming up..."
236
00:11:41,900 --> 00:11:43,070
Kanpai!
Kanpai!
237
00:11:43,100 --> 00:11:45,470
'I've fed my soul,
238
00:11:45,500 --> 00:11:48,070
'but now, I get to eat
flipping delicious pancakes
239
00:11:48,100 --> 00:11:51,070
'on a fantastic food tour of Osaka.'
240
00:11:51,100 --> 00:11:54,070
That's one of the best things
I've tasted in Japan.
241
00:11:54,100 --> 00:11:57,550
'And never let it be said
I'm not adventurous.'
242
00:11:57,580 --> 00:11:59,990
I'm going to have
my first octopus ball.
243
00:12:00,020 --> 00:12:02,110
Oh, yeah!
Yay!
244
00:12:11,180 --> 00:12:15,230
'I've travelled to Japan
on a voyage of discovery.
245
00:12:15,260 --> 00:12:18,830
'Along the way,
I've chatted to robots in Tokyo.'
246
00:12:18,860 --> 00:12:21,830
Wakefield is a great place to live.
247
00:12:21,860 --> 00:12:23,830
'I've donned an exquisite kimono
in Kyoto."'
248
00:12:23,860 --> 00:12:26,270
I feel very honoured.
249
00:12:26,300 --> 00:12:28,990
'And I've even learned how to eat
noodles the Japanese way.
250
00:12:31,260 --> 00:12:34,270
'And now, my education continues.
251
00:12:34,300 --> 00:12:39,950
'Today, I'm in vibrant Osaka,
famed for its fabulous gastro scene,
252
00:12:39,980 --> 00:12:42,990
'and I've been online
and booked a foodie tour,
253
00:12:43,020 --> 00:12:47,510
'with a guide who specialises
in off-the-beaten-track delicacies.
254
00:12:47,540 --> 00:12:50,430
'A whole new world of
tastebud-tingling flavour awaits.'
255
00:12:52,020 --> 00:12:55,470
Osaka is known
as the kitchen of Japan,
256
00:12:55,500 --> 00:12:58,110
and I'm meeting Akiko
257
00:12:58,140 --> 00:13:01,110
between the tower
and the big Buddha,
258
00:13:01,140 --> 00:13:04,790
and she's gonna show me
some tasty delights.
259
00:13:08,140 --> 00:13:10,790
Hi, Magical Trip. Jane?
Oh!
260
00:13:10,820 --> 00:13:12,950
Akiko.
Nice to meet you.
261
00:13:12,980 --> 00:13:14,430
Nice to meet you.
262
00:13:14,460 --> 00:13:16,550
Nice to meet you,
thank you for coming.
263
00:13:18,380 --> 00:13:21,750
In Osaka, we can enjoy
lots and lots of cheap...
264
00:13:21,780 --> 00:13:23,710
LAUGHS
Yeah, good food.
265
00:13:23,740 --> 00:13:25,910
Good, and tasty food here.
266
00:13:25,940 --> 00:13:27,630
Great.
There.
267
00:13:27,660 --> 00:13:29,430
Yes.
Lovely.
268
00:13:33,580 --> 00:13:38,870
'First on the menu is Osaka's
signature dish, okonomiyaki,
269
00:13:38,900 --> 00:13:41,830
'which means "as you like it"
pancake.'
270
00:13:44,300 --> 00:13:46,710
I don't have to eat this like that,
do I?
271
00:13:46,740 --> 00:13:50,470
So, this is the ingredients
to make okonomiyaki, Osaka pancakes.
272
00:13:50,500 --> 00:13:51,990
So you need to mix.
273
00:13:52,020 --> 00:13:54,790
Ah, we mix it up and then...
Oh, that's hot!
274
00:13:54,820 --> 00:13:57,070
Yeah, don't touch, don't touch!
275
00:13:57,100 --> 00:13:59,630
So, we cook it.
Yes, we can cook here.
276
00:13:59,660 --> 00:14:02,150
So we can mix.
What is... What is it?
277
00:14:02,180 --> 00:14:05,590
Oh, this is, of course, pepper,
and this is cabbage.
278
00:14:05,620 --> 00:14:10,190
And this is pork and egg.
So we can mix, OK? First.
279
00:14:10,220 --> 00:14:13,110
It's like a cabbage omelette,
really.
280
00:14:13,140 --> 00:14:14,870
So, do you put it all on?
281
00:14:14,900 --> 00:14:16,310
Yes.
282
00:14:16,340 --> 00:14:18,910
Here we go.
283
00:14:18,940 --> 00:14:21,070
Yes.
Right.
284
00:14:21,100 --> 00:14:23,070
OK.
285
00:14:24,180 --> 00:14:26,590
And you can mix up or like this.
286
00:14:26,620 --> 00:14:28,870
Oh, right.
Yeah.
287
00:14:28,900 --> 00:14:30,790
And then...
288
00:14:30,820 --> 00:14:33,470
Wait.
Wait.
289
00:14:33,500 --> 00:14:34,790
Just patience.
290
00:14:34,820 --> 00:14:36,790
Yes, we need patience.
291
00:14:36,820 --> 00:14:38,990
'And whilst we wait
for dinner to cook,
292
00:14:39,020 --> 00:14:43,190
'we treat ourselves to a traditional
Japanese aperitif.'
293
00:14:43,220 --> 00:14:45,710
Oh, yeah.
294
00:14:45,740 --> 00:14:49,070
Arigato gozaimasu.
295
00:14:49,100 --> 00:14:51,470
Arigato.
296
00:14:51,500 --> 00:14:54,310
So, when we Japanese drink beer,
we say "Kanpai!"
297
00:14:54,340 --> 00:14:56,830
Kanpai! Kanpai!
Kanpai!
298
00:15:01,100 --> 00:15:02,870
Mm, OK.
299
00:15:02,900 --> 00:15:04,830
Can I use this one?
Yeah.
300
00:15:04,860 --> 00:15:06,390
Yeah, thank you.
Of course.
301
00:15:06,420 --> 00:15:07,710
So you see...
302
00:15:12,140 --> 00:15:14,430
Go, go, go.
303
00:15:14,460 --> 00:15:16,430
CHEERING
304
00:15:16,460 --> 00:15:17,790
Made it.
What a mess!
305
00:15:17,820 --> 00:15:20,150
LAUGHTER
306
00:15:20,180 --> 00:15:22,270
And then, after we cut...
Yeah.
307
00:15:24,060 --> 00:15:25,670
Like sauce.
308
00:15:25,700 --> 00:15:27,470
There we go.
309
00:15:27,500 --> 00:15:29,310
Wow, that's a lot of sauce.
310
00:15:29,340 --> 00:15:31,670
That's a lot of sauce.
Lots.
311
00:15:33,620 --> 00:15:36,550
I'm just gonna do a little bit
of sauce, is that all right?
312
00:15:36,580 --> 00:15:39,670
Then... Then we can eat.
313
00:15:39,700 --> 00:15:41,310
Right.
314
00:15:42,940 --> 00:15:44,790
So hot, right?
Yeah.
315
00:15:46,500 --> 00:15:47,910
Mm.
316
00:15:49,180 --> 00:15:51,990
Good? Good.
317
00:15:52,020 --> 00:15:53,830
You like this?
318
00:15:53,860 --> 00:15:55,510
I tell you what,
319
00:15:55,540 --> 00:15:57,710
that's one of the best things
I've tasted in Japan.
320
00:15:57,740 --> 00:16:00,030
Oh!
So good.
321
00:16:00,060 --> 00:16:01,350
So good, right?
322
00:16:01,380 --> 00:16:04,390
And so easy.
You can make that at your house.
323
00:16:04,420 --> 00:16:05,510
Yeah.
Yeah.
324
00:16:05,540 --> 00:16:08,990
It's very much like
bubble and squeak.
325
00:16:10,460 --> 00:16:12,230
And it's wholesome,
326
00:16:12,260 --> 00:16:15,710
and it's got a lovely crust on it,
from the frying.
327
00:16:15,740 --> 00:16:18,470
It's just got a really nice taste.
328
00:16:18,500 --> 00:16:20,790
Kanpai!
Kanpai!
329
00:16:22,900 --> 00:16:26,510
'Turns out the okonomiyaki,
or huge Japanese pancake,
330
00:16:26,540 --> 00:16:28,390
'was just for starters.
331
00:16:28,420 --> 00:16:30,950
'And now,
Akiko is taking me elsewhere
332
00:16:30,980 --> 00:16:34,550
'for the main course.
We're going for kushikatsu.
333
00:16:34,580 --> 00:16:37,030
'I know from the eateries
back in Blighty
334
00:16:37,060 --> 00:16:39,390
'that we see katsu as a curry.
335
00:16:39,420 --> 00:16:42,630
"But like many dishes, we've
probably put our own spin on it.'
336
00:16:42,660 --> 00:16:45,350
Here we can eat kushikatsu.
Shall we?
337
00:16:45,380 --> 00:16:47,870
"Don't be fooled
by the anonymous door,
338
00:16:47,900 --> 00:16:51,390
'as I've learnt Japan has
hidden gems everywhere,
339
00:16:51,420 --> 00:16:55,190
'and Akiko says
this is the place for kushikatsu.
340
00:16:56,820 --> 00:17:01,070
'This dish is actually a deep-fried
cutlet of meat or vegetables,
341
00:17:01,100 --> 00:17:04,190
'usually served
with the sauce on the side.
342
00:17:04,220 --> 00:17:07,110
'See? I told you it were different
to the ones back home.'
343
00:17:07,140 --> 00:17:09,110
OK.
Thank you.
344
00:17:09,140 --> 00:17:10,310
AKIKO CHEERS
345
00:17:10,340 --> 00:17:11,790
LAUGHTER
346
00:17:11,820 --> 00:17:14,510
Again, nama biru.
Arigato.
347
00:17:14,540 --> 00:17:16,110
Kanpai!
Kanpai!
348
00:17:17,380 --> 00:17:21,030
Ni hai, it means two drinks today.
Right?
349
00:17:21,060 --> 00:17:23,550
Yeah, we're gonna have
a right night.
350
00:17:23,580 --> 00:17:25,510
Mm.
351
00:17:25,540 --> 00:17:28,190
Mm! Mm.
352
00:17:28,220 --> 00:17:29,510
Oh!
353
00:17:32,060 --> 00:17:33,630
Fabulous.
354
00:17:33,660 --> 00:17:34,910
Thank you.
Thank you.
355
00:17:34,940 --> 00:17:37,830
This one... chicken.
Chicken.
356
00:17:37,860 --> 00:17:40,030
And that one, this one.
Yeah?
357
00:17:40,060 --> 00:17:41,270
Pork.
Pork.
358
00:17:41,300 --> 00:17:42,910
Yeah. And this one...
359
00:17:42,940 --> 00:17:44,310
Beef.
Beef, right.
360
00:17:44,340 --> 00:17:47,110
And eggplant.
Eggplant.
361
00:17:47,140 --> 00:17:48,950
What is...
Oh, yeah.
362
00:17:48,980 --> 00:17:52,030
Shiitake mushroom.
Shiitake mushroom.
363
00:17:52,060 --> 00:17:53,790
LAUGHTER
Right, OK.
364
00:17:53,820 --> 00:17:55,230
You have an egg.
365
00:17:55,260 --> 00:17:57,430
And there is an onion.
366
00:17:57,460 --> 00:17:59,430
That's onion.
Onion.
367
00:17:59,460 --> 00:18:01,630
And of course this is...
Asparagus. Yes.
368
00:18:01,660 --> 00:18:05,870
'There are some very specific rules
when it comes to the sauce.'
369
00:18:05,900 --> 00:18:09,550
If you eat kushikatsu,
you know, if you eat like that,
370
00:18:09,580 --> 00:18:12,510
and then we can dip again,
it's really dirty, right?
371
00:18:12,540 --> 00:18:15,510
You can't dip twice.
No double-dipping.
372
00:18:15,540 --> 00:18:17,270
Yeah, yeah, just only one.
373
00:18:17,300 --> 00:18:18,350
OK.
374
00:18:18,380 --> 00:18:20,870
Or you can pour the sauce
on this plate.
375
00:18:22,900 --> 00:18:25,670
It's hot.
Yeah. Hot.
376
00:18:30,620 --> 00:18:32,110
Mm.
Yeah?
377
00:18:32,140 --> 00:18:34,310
Mm.
Right?
378
00:18:34,340 --> 00:18:36,310
Really hot!
LAUGHTER
379
00:18:36,340 --> 00:18:38,950
Have a drink of your beer.
Mm.
380
00:18:38,980 --> 00:18:40,670
Mm, that's good.
381
00:18:40,700 --> 00:18:43,030
'Even though everything
is deep-fried,
382
00:18:43,060 --> 00:18:45,230
'the batter is so light,
thin and crispy,
383
00:18:45,260 --> 00:18:46,710
'it's very moreish.
384
00:18:46,740 --> 00:18:50,510
'The sauce is different, too.
Less curry, more sweet soy.
385
00:18:50,540 --> 00:18:52,790
'Still, it's utterly delicious.'
386
00:18:52,820 --> 00:18:55,550
Right. Going in for...
I love onion.
387
00:18:55,580 --> 00:18:56,990
Yeah, yeah.
388
00:18:59,780 --> 00:19:01,390
Is it good?
Mmm.
389
00:19:01,420 --> 00:19:02,630
Oh, aye.
390
00:19:02,660 --> 00:19:05,790
Ooh, that's like
a proper onion ring, that.
391
00:19:05,820 --> 00:19:07,590
That's smashing. Oh!
Mmm.
392
00:19:09,820 --> 00:19:13,670
'Normally, after two big courses
and two pints of beer,
393
00:19:13,700 --> 00:19:16,750
"you'd pour me into a cab
and send me home.
394
00:19:16,780 --> 00:19:19,830
'But Akiko has one final
foodie hotspot to visit
395
00:19:19,860 --> 00:19:22,870
'to end my three-course
extravaganza.'
396
00:19:24,180 --> 00:19:27,590
OK, so, here is a place...
Oh, it's this one.
397
00:19:27,620 --> 00:19:30,950
Yeah, here is a place
where you can eat octopus ball.
398
00:19:30,980 --> 00:19:32,070
Ah.
Yeah.
399
00:19:32,100 --> 00:19:34,390
I'm going to have
my first octopus ball.
400
00:19:34,420 --> 00:19:36,230
Oh, yeah!
Yeah!
401
00:19:37,420 --> 00:19:39,550
'I've never had
octopus balls before.
402
00:19:39,580 --> 00:19:41,190
'Especially not for pudding,
403
00:19:41,220 --> 00:19:44,790
"but it's a local delicacy,
and the line of people reassures me,
404
00:19:44,820 --> 00:19:46,670
'they're gonna taste really good."
405
00:19:48,500 --> 00:19:50,110
Cos this is, like, a massive queue.
406
00:19:50,140 --> 00:19:52,070
Yeah, yeah,
it's so many people waiting.
407
00:19:52,100 --> 00:19:56,790
And actually from the morning
and the lunchtime, and evening, too.
408
00:19:56,820 --> 00:20:00,550
Yeah, a lot of octopus ball here,
but the trade here is really good.
409
00:20:00,580 --> 00:20:02,750
Yeah.
Yeah.
410
00:20:02,780 --> 00:20:05,030
Yeah, so that's why there's a queue.
That's the world over.
411
00:20:05,060 --> 00:20:06,910
Wherever there's a big queue,
it's good stuff.
412
00:20:06,940 --> 00:20:07,990
Yeah. That's right.
413
00:20:08,020 --> 00:20:10,710
LAUGHTER
That's true.
414
00:20:10,740 --> 00:20:12,630
Arigato gozaimasu, thank you.
415
00:20:12,660 --> 00:20:14,790
Arigato. Thank you.
Arigato gozaimasu.
416
00:20:14,820 --> 00:20:16,510
Wow, there's a lot of balls there.
417
00:20:18,180 --> 00:20:19,710
'For just under two quid,
418
00:20:19,740 --> 00:20:21,350
'that's a lot of balls
for your buck.'
419
00:20:28,820 --> 00:20:30,350
Hot.
Mm.
420
00:20:32,020 --> 00:20:34,190
'What's adding to the flavour
and texture
421
00:20:34,220 --> 00:20:36,710
'is the topping
of sweet Japanese mayonnaise,
422
00:20:36,740 --> 00:20:39,310
'seaweed and crispy bonito flakes.
423
00:20:39,340 --> 00:20:42,070
'That's dried tuna to you and me."
424
00:20:42,100 --> 00:20:44,470
It's like Yorkshire pudding.
Yeah.
425
00:20:44,500 --> 00:20:46,790
Like Yorkshire pudding.
426
00:20:46,820 --> 00:20:48,550
But not as puffed up.
Mm.
427
00:20:48,580 --> 00:20:52,030
'That were a real treat,
getting to know all the hidden gems
428
00:20:52,060 --> 00:20:54,550
'among the thousands
of restaurants here.
429
00:20:54,580 --> 00:20:58,510
'But I'm not gonna lie,
I'm more than a bit full.'
430
00:20:58,540 --> 00:21:01,990
Thank you so very much.
I've enjoyed myself so much,
431
00:21:02,020 --> 00:21:05,750
so I really appreciate you
showing me all the culture.
432
00:21:05,780 --> 00:21:08,270
Oh, thank you.
Especially octopus balls.
433
00:21:08,300 --> 00:21:09,670
Thank you.
Thank you so much.
434
00:21:09,700 --> 00:21:11,550
Come on, let's go in. Come on.
Yeah.
435
00:21:13,660 --> 00:21:14,670
'Coming up...
436
00:21:16,060 --> 00:21:18,230
'| ascend
the world's highest escalator
437
00:21:18,260 --> 00:21:20,670
'and get the view of a lifetime.'
438
00:21:20,700 --> 00:21:22,950
Oh, wow!
439
00:21:22,980 --> 00:21:24,790
This is incredible.
440
00:21:24,820 --> 00:21:27,310
'And I get a real treat
when I get a cooking lesson
441
00:21:27,340 --> 00:21:29,510
'in a new friend's home.'
442
00:21:29,540 --> 00:21:30,790
Oh, that is so good.
443
00:21:30,820 --> 00:21:32,110
Thank you.
444
00:21:41,060 --> 00:21:45,270
'I'm on the final leg of my voyage
into the heart and soul of Japan,
445
00:21:45,300 --> 00:21:47,510
'here in its third biggest city,
Osaka.
446
00:21:49,260 --> 00:21:52,030
'I've been really struck
by this large, sprawling city,
447
00:21:52,060 --> 00:21:55,670
'where busy, bustling streets
meet calming canals,
448
00:21:55,700 --> 00:21:59,310
'and |'ve admired the sheer scale
of the vast buildings.
449
00:21:59,340 --> 00:22:02,790
"And there's one in particular
I really want to visit for myself.'
450
00:22:02,820 --> 00:22:05,350
I'm at the Umeda building,
451
00:22:05,380 --> 00:22:10,910
which houses the highest escalator
in the world.
452
00:22:12,460 --> 00:22:17,390
'The escalator spans two individual
40-storey towers of the building
453
00:22:17,420 --> 00:22:18,870
'high up in the sky.'
454
00:22:20,220 --> 00:22:24,750
If you don't like heights, or...
escalators,
455
00:22:24,780 --> 00:22:27,030
or elevators...
456
00:22:27,060 --> 00:22:28,870
then don't come and do this,
457
00:22:28,900 --> 00:22:31,350
but I love it!
So I'm going up there.
458
00:22:33,980 --> 00:22:36,150
'I've swotted up a bit
and discovered
459
00:22:36,180 --> 00:22:40,390
'that this was designed by famous
Japanese architect Hiroshi Hara,
460
00:22:40,420 --> 00:22:44,390
'and it's been listed as one of
the 20 most impressive buildings
461
00:22:44,420 --> 00:22:47,230
'in the world.
And I can certainly see why.
462
00:22:48,900 --> 00:22:51,070
'To get to the escalator,
463
00:22:51,100 --> 00:22:54,190
'I've got to take a lift
which goes up 35 storeys.'
464
00:22:58,180 --> 00:23:02,750
The Japanese really know
how to do a high building.
465
00:23:02,780 --> 00:23:05,670
Apart from if you're in Kyoto.
466
00:23:05,700 --> 00:23:07,230
They only go up to nine.
467
00:23:08,380 --> 00:23:12,550
But anywhere outside,
and it's like, "how high can we go?"
468
00:23:18,460 --> 00:23:20,310
Oh! Clouds.
469
00:23:21,660 --> 00:23:23,030
Look.
470
00:23:23,060 --> 00:23:24,510
Look at the clouds.
471
00:23:25,740 --> 00:23:28,230
There's a plane
just gone past that window,
472
00:23:28,260 --> 00:23:30,390
and we're actually higher
than a plane.
473
00:23:32,140 --> 00:23:36,270
"And here it is.
The world's highest escalator.
474
00:23:37,300 --> 00:23:40,310
'Look away, vertigo sufferers."
475
00:23:40,340 --> 00:23:42,990
This is really high!
LAUGHS
476
00:23:43,020 --> 00:23:45,430
Very high.
But it's like a stairway to heaven.
477
00:23:46,580 --> 00:23:49,030
It's amazing.
478
00:23:49,060 --> 00:23:51,990
This is fantastic architecture,
isn't it?
479
00:23:53,500 --> 00:23:55,990
Really amazing architecture.
480
00:23:56,020 --> 00:23:59,550
'The escalator itself
travels up four storeys.'
481
00:23:59,580 --> 00:24:02,150
It's crazy high. Really high.
482
00:24:06,980 --> 00:24:11,270
'You come out 173 metres
above the ground,
483
00:24:11,300 --> 00:24:14,790
'and you're met
by this 360-degree vista.'
484
00:24:14,820 --> 00:24:17,790
SHE GASPS
Look at this.
485
00:24:19,220 --> 00:24:20,790
Oh, wow!
486
00:24:20,820 --> 00:24:22,350
This is incredible.
487
00:24:25,740 --> 00:24:28,030
'It's a shame it's not sunnier,
488
00:24:28,060 --> 00:24:30,270
'as this is a great place
to admire the view
489
00:24:30,300 --> 00:24:32,910
'and appreciate the scale
of this wonderful city,
490
00:24:32,940 --> 00:24:36,070
'stretching out to the mountains
that surround it.'
491
00:24:39,380 --> 00:24:40,790
I quite enjoyed that.
492
00:24:41,980 --> 00:24:44,510
It's nice to get up there
and feel the air,
493
00:24:44,540 --> 00:24:45,710
breathe it in...
494
00:24:47,420 --> 00:24:49,830
...and just see another part
of Osaka.
495
00:24:51,820 --> 00:24:54,590
'As fantastic as it was up there,
496
00:24:54,620 --> 00:24:57,590
'| need to get back down
to ground level,
497
00:24:57,620 --> 00:25:00,030
'as |'ve booked myself
a very special cookery lesson.'
498
00:25:02,180 --> 00:25:06,870
I'm meeting a lady called Yoshiko
who teaches cookery.
499
00:25:08,100 --> 00:25:12,270
And obviously,
being in the kitchen of Japan,
500
00:25:12,300 --> 00:25:14,110
I've got to try a bit of that.
501
00:25:14,140 --> 00:25:16,110
Hello.
502
00:25:16,140 --> 00:25:18,870
Hi. Nice to meet you.
503
00:25:18,900 --> 00:25:21,430
Nice to meet you.
Oh, nice to meet you, too.
504
00:25:21,460 --> 00:25:23,590
LAUGHTER
No, it's fine.
505
00:25:23,620 --> 00:25:25,950
"What makes this really special
506
00:25:25,980 --> 00:25:30,590
'is that Yoshiko holds
her cookery courses in her own home,
507
00:25:30,620 --> 00:25:33,670
'so it's an amazing chance
for anyone who books a class
508
00:25:33,700 --> 00:25:36,430
'to see what family life
is really like here in Osaka.'
509
00:25:38,180 --> 00:25:41,070
I think it's good
to learn how to cook.
510
00:25:41,100 --> 00:25:43,230
Oh, please, please.
Yeah.
511
00:25:43,260 --> 00:25:45,790
Especially from a master like you.
512
00:25:45,820 --> 00:25:48,710
No, no, no, I'm not a master,
please, please!
513
00:25:48,740 --> 00:25:50,710
To me, you are.
514
00:25:50,740 --> 00:25:52,630
LAUGHTER
515
00:26:01,460 --> 00:26:03,910
Thank you.
Welcome to my house.
516
00:26:03,940 --> 00:26:05,870
Thank you very much.
Here.
517
00:26:05,900 --> 00:26:07,630
It's a pleasure to be here.
518
00:26:07,660 --> 00:26:10,070
Dining, kitchen.
Ah, konnichiwa.
519
00:26:10,100 --> 00:26:12,510
Here is my daughter, Sawa.
Sawa?
520
00:26:12,540 --> 00:26:14,230
Sawa, yes.
Sawa.
521
00:26:14,260 --> 00:26:15,870
Konnichiwa.
522
00:26:15,900 --> 00:26:17,270
LAUGHTER
523
00:26:17,300 --> 00:26:19,270
She assists today.
Oh, assistant.
524
00:26:19,300 --> 00:26:20,990
Yes, yes.
Daughters are good assistants.
525
00:26:21,020 --> 00:26:23,710
Yes, that's right.
526
00:26:23,740 --> 00:26:28,910
Today I want to show my cooking
about Japanese rolled omelette,
527
00:26:28,940 --> 00:26:30,750
and gyoza.
528
00:26:30,780 --> 00:26:33,870
If you like, please wear the apron,
529
00:26:33,900 --> 00:26:37,350
and put the towel in the pocket
and use it any time.
530
00:26:37,380 --> 00:26:39,030
Right, OK.
531
00:26:39,060 --> 00:26:40,510
This is fun.
532
00:26:40,540 --> 00:26:42,710
'Yoshiko has chosen two dishes
533
00:26:42,740 --> 00:26:45,750
'typically cooked
in homes across Japan,
534
00:26:45,780 --> 00:26:48,670
'and we're starting
with the rolled omelette.'
535
00:26:48,700 --> 00:26:50,230
So, let's start.
536
00:26:50,260 --> 00:26:52,430
Each person please use two eggs.
537
00:26:52,460 --> 00:26:54,550
Two eggs. Two eggs.
538
00:26:55,860 --> 00:26:57,790
OK.
539
00:26:57,820 --> 00:26:59,510
So, wine?
540
00:26:59,540 --> 00:27:02,830
Sweet sake, sweet wine like that...
Uh-huh?
541
00:27:02,860 --> 00:27:07,230
We drink sake,
but we don't drink sweet sake.
542
00:27:07,260 --> 00:27:08,990
Just for cooking.
543
00:27:09,020 --> 00:27:11,510
'Already I'm learning
that there are differences
544
00:27:11,540 --> 00:27:15,550
'between Japan and the UK when it
comes to the humble omelette.'
545
00:27:15,580 --> 00:27:18,630
So, this is a frying pan
for Japanese rolled omelette.
546
00:27:18,660 --> 00:27:20,430
It is a very special shape.
OK.
547
00:27:20,460 --> 00:27:22,070
But it is very convenient.
548
00:27:22,100 --> 00:27:24,710
'The eggs are added in stages,
549
00:27:24,740 --> 00:27:27,870
'creating layers
which Yoshiko then folds.'
550
00:27:27,900 --> 00:27:30,470
We soak under the egg.
551
00:27:30,500 --> 00:27:32,270
Ah, under. OK.
Yes.
552
00:27:32,300 --> 00:27:34,950
So, it's layering...
Yes, that's right.
553
00:27:34,980 --> 00:27:37,110
A bit like puff pastry.
554
00:27:37,140 --> 00:27:40,630
'OK, my turn. Look away, people.'
555
00:27:42,900 --> 00:27:44,670
It all goes horribly wrong.
556
00:27:46,820 --> 00:27:49,870
Cos now I have to fold it,
don't I?
557
00:27:49,900 --> 00:27:52,270
Oh, very nice.
558
00:27:52,300 --> 00:27:54,670
YOSHIKO LAUGHS
559
00:27:54,700 --> 00:27:56,910
Enough oil, I think so.
560
00:27:56,940 --> 00:27:58,510
Yeah?
Yes, yes.
561
00:27:58,540 --> 00:27:59,590
That's it.
562
00:28:00,980 --> 00:28:02,190
Wow.
563
00:28:02,220 --> 00:28:03,870
JANE LAUGHS
564
00:28:03,900 --> 00:28:05,750
You look like a veteran.
565
00:28:05,780 --> 00:28:08,030
Look at that!
Perfect.
566
00:28:08,060 --> 00:28:09,870
Yeah!
Yes.
567
00:28:09,900 --> 00:28:12,310
I'm not one to cause trouble,
but that were a fluke.
568
00:28:14,020 --> 00:28:16,310
Look at that.
Yes.
569
00:28:16,340 --> 00:28:18,430
Can I taste it with these?
Yes.
570
00:28:23,340 --> 00:28:25,710
It's different to ours,
because it's sweet.
571
00:28:25,740 --> 00:28:28,510
It's the wine,
it's the sweet cooking wine,
572
00:28:28,540 --> 00:28:33,550
and because it's cooked in layers,
it's very, very light.
573
00:28:38,180 --> 00:28:40,750
YOSHIKO GIGGLES
Thank you.
574
00:28:40,780 --> 00:28:44,470
Next, let's make gyoza.
575
00:28:44,500 --> 00:28:46,030
gyoza.
gyoza.
576
00:28:46,060 --> 00:28:48,430
And the ingredients,
577
00:28:48,460 --> 00:28:51,350
we use Chinese cabbage.
OK.
578
00:28:51,380 --> 00:28:54,750
And mixed with minced pork.
579
00:28:55,980 --> 00:28:57,310
Minced pork.
580
00:28:57,340 --> 00:28:59,350
"gyoza are small dumplings
581
00:28:59,380 --> 00:29:02,190
'made from plain flour,
water and salt,
582
00:29:02,220 --> 00:29:05,550
'and then are filled
with ground meat and vegetables.
583
00:29:05,580 --> 00:29:07,470
'They've been a staple
of Asian cuisine
584
00:29:07,500 --> 00:29:08,830
'for thousands of years."
585
00:29:08,860 --> 00:29:13,470
And make a dent, and stand.
586
00:29:14,740 --> 00:29:16,550
Mine might not stand.
587
00:29:16,580 --> 00:29:18,830
Oh, it has!
588
00:29:18,860 --> 00:29:21,590
So excited!
589
00:29:21,620 --> 00:29:25,150
'The next step is to fry them
in this clever dumpling fryer,
590
00:29:25,180 --> 00:29:26,830
{\i1}'using just water.'{\i0}
591
00:29:26,860 --> 00:29:28,430
How long does this take?
592
00:29:28,460 --> 00:29:33,270
When you listen, this sound changes,
"patchi-patchi”.
593
00:29:33,300 --> 00:29:35,030
Patchi-patchi.
Patchi-patchi
594
00:29:35,060 --> 00:29:36,670
How can I say in English?
595
00:29:36,700 --> 00:29:38,830
Tell me about it when you hear it.
596
00:29:38,860 --> 00:29:40,830
LAUGHTER
597
00:29:40,860 --> 00:29:42,430
Patchi-patchi.
598
00:29:43,940 --> 00:29:47,390
'This experience reminds me
that behind every busy city window
599
00:29:47,420 --> 00:29:50,470
'there are families just like this
coming together
600
00:29:50,500 --> 00:29:53,230
'in the heart of the home,
the kitchen.
601
00:29:53,260 --> 00:29:56,750
'Just like me and my family
in happy times gone by.'
602
00:29:56,780 --> 00:29:58,390
Wow.
603
00:29:59,660 --> 00:30:01,510
I've got a feeling
604
00:30:01,540 --> 00:30:05,430
that these are gonna taste
absolutely perfect.
605
00:30:05,460 --> 00:30:08,350
Can I finish the dishes?
Yes, please, yes.
606
00:30:08,380 --> 00:30:12,630
Because there's that special
ingredient in it.
607
00:30:12,660 --> 00:30:14,510
It's called love.
608
00:30:14,540 --> 00:30:18,390
'And sharing that love and food
with three generations
609
00:30:18,420 --> 00:30:21,150
'is an experience that's shown me
the real Osaka.'
610
00:30:22,300 --> 00:30:23,950
JANE GIGGLES
611
00:30:23,980 --> 00:30:25,510
Hello!
612
00:30:25,540 --> 00:30:28,190
Look at that little face! Hello!
613
00:30:33,660 --> 00:30:35,270
You did it.
614
00:30:35,300 --> 00:30:37,430
Oh, that is so good.
615
00:30:37,460 --> 00:30:38,790
Thank you very much.
616
00:30:38,820 --> 00:30:41,390
Totally different to a restaurant.
617
00:30:41,420 --> 00:30:42,510
Really?
618
00:30:42,540 --> 00:30:44,790
It so much better.
Oh, thank you.
619
00:30:44,820 --> 00:30:46,190
So much better.
620
00:30:46,220 --> 00:30:48,910
So, if I visit Japan again...
Mm-hm.
621
00:30:48,940 --> 00:30:50,630
...I will come and live here!
622
00:30:50,660 --> 00:30:53,470
LAUGHTER
Of course.
623
00:30:53,500 --> 00:30:55,870
I always say to my guest..
Mm-hm?
624
00:30:55,900 --> 00:30:58,870
...first meeting,
of course, you are a guest,
625
00:30:58,900 --> 00:31:01,190
but second time, we are friends.
626
00:31:01,220 --> 00:31:04,750
Oh! That means I have to come back.
Please remember.
627
00:31:04,780 --> 00:31:06,150
I will, definitely.
628
00:31:06,180 --> 00:31:08,270
Oh, they're so good.
629
00:31:10,780 --> 00:31:16,150
'Coming up, I try my hand at
the ancient art of calligraphy...'
630
00:31:17,740 --> 00:31:20,030
Looks nothing like yours.
LAUGHS
631
00:31:20,060 --> 00:31:23,390
'..and I visit a legendary
sweet treat shop,
632
00:31:23,420 --> 00:31:26,110
'where the ingredients
are pounded together
633
00:31:26,140 --> 00:31:27,630
'using a centuries-old methods.'
634
00:31:27,660 --> 00:31:29,310
Ow, ow, ow!
635
00:31:34,660 --> 00:31:39,390
'I've spent three days
in the food capital of Japan, Osaka,
636
00:31:39,420 --> 00:31:41,750
'but where do the locals go
637
00:31:41,780 --> 00:31:44,870
'for a tasty afternoon
away from the city?
638
00:31:44,900 --> 00:31:48,870
'I'm told it's 25 miles east,
to Nara in the Kansai region.
639
00:31:48,900 --> 00:31:52,270
'It's like me going on a day trip
to Harrogate.
640
00:31:52,300 --> 00:31:56,510
'You see, Osaka doesn't own
the copyright on deliciousness,
641
00:31:56,540 --> 00:31:59,830
"as Nara has some of the best
mochi in Japan.
642
00:31:59,860 --> 00:32:02,190
'That's sweet cakes to you and me."
643
00:32:02,220 --> 00:32:05,430
Apparently, mochi is rice,
644
00:32:05,460 --> 00:32:07,790
and you really pound it,
645
00:32:07,820 --> 00:32:10,550
and you can have it
savoury or sweet,
646
00:32:10,580 --> 00:32:12,750
but the thing about this is,
647
00:32:12,780 --> 00:32:14,350
you've got to eat it
quite quickly here,
648
00:32:14,380 --> 00:32:16,830
otherwise it'll go hard.
649
00:32:16,860 --> 00:32:19,350
And you don't want that
with dentures, do you, really?
650
00:32:21,700 --> 00:32:25,350
'Legend has it
that mochi has spiritual powers,
651
00:32:25,380 --> 00:32:28,270
'and was originally only eaten
at births and marriages.
652
00:32:28,300 --> 00:32:30,550
'But it's too tasty for best,
653
00:32:30,580 --> 00:32:33,230
'so now it's eaten
all day, every day,
654
00:32:33,260 --> 00:32:36,030
'particularly at breakfast.'
655
00:32:36,060 --> 00:32:38,470
It's only just opened,
and there's a queue already,
656
00:32:38,500 --> 00:32:40,710
which I am going to join.
657
00:32:40,740 --> 00:32:43,710
'Whilst mass-produced mochi
can be found
658
00:32:43,740 --> 00:32:46,270
'in every supermarket
across the country,
659
00:32:46,300 --> 00:32:50,150
'a quick search on the internet
has revealed this place is special.
660
00:32:51,820 --> 00:32:53,670
'It's been here for 30 years,
661
00:32:53,700 --> 00:32:58,150
'and uses 2,000-year-old techniques
which involve brute force.'
662
00:32:59,260 --> 00:33:02,710
There's a man just appeared now
with a mallet.
663
00:33:02,740 --> 00:33:04,910
I think it's a mallet.
664
00:33:06,180 --> 00:33:07,910
Oh, oh! They're going for it.
665
00:33:10,340 --> 00:33:11,950
Oh! Ow, ow, ow.
666
00:33:17,740 --> 00:33:21,230
They're hitting
a massive green marshmallow.
667
00:33:21,260 --> 00:33:24,590
'The green marshmallow is actually
beaten sweet rice,
668
00:33:24,620 --> 00:33:29,950
'and repeated bashing gives it
this soft gelatinous texture.'
669
00:33:29,980 --> 00:33:33,550
But it's really good for getting
your aggression out, I think, this.
670
00:33:37,580 --> 00:33:39,150
And they're putting their hands in
671
00:33:39,180 --> 00:33:41,070
at the same time
as they're beating it.
672
00:33:41,100 --> 00:33:43,390
My God, there's a lot of trust.
A lot of trust.
673
00:33:46,460 --> 00:33:47,590
That's it, done.
674
00:33:49,900 --> 00:33:51,270
Nowt like a good pounding.
675
00:33:53,740 --> 00:33:55,150
What is that?
676
00:33:55,180 --> 00:33:57,190
It's soybean powder.
677
00:33:57,220 --> 00:33:59,230
Soya bean powder.
Yeah.
678
00:33:59,260 --> 00:34:00,990
It's kinako.
Ah, right.
679
00:34:01,020 --> 00:34:03,430
Thank you. Let's have a go.
680
00:34:09,780 --> 00:34:11,190
Very chewy.
681
00:34:14,980 --> 00:34:17,110
Very chewy!
682
00:34:17,140 --> 00:34:19,430
That's red bean paste in it.
683
00:34:19,460 --> 00:34:22,590
It's like the equivalent
to our doughnut.
684
00:34:22,620 --> 00:34:25,110
So I can see why it's so popular.
685
00:34:25,140 --> 00:34:27,710
It's like a treat. It's a treat.
686
00:34:29,580 --> 00:34:31,750
It's very tasty.
687
00:34:31,780 --> 00:34:34,270
'I love a sweet cake
at any time of the day,
688
00:34:34,300 --> 00:34:36,870
'and that right hit my sweet spot.
689
00:34:40,260 --> 00:34:43,630
'So, I've tasted the treats,
and now for a bit of culture,
690
00:34:43,660 --> 00:34:47,310
'as I'm going to try my hand
at the ancient art of calligraphy.'
691
00:34:47,340 --> 00:34:49,590
It's all about writing,
692
00:34:49,620 --> 00:34:53,230
and beautiful writing,
artistic writing.
693
00:34:53,260 --> 00:34:56,630
And if anyone knows
how to do artistic writing,
694
00:34:56,660 --> 00:34:58,430
it's the Japanese.
695
00:35:03,460 --> 00:35:06,790
'| found this school online,
and like my cooking lesson,
696
00:35:06,820 --> 00:35:09,350
it's run by another
mother and daughter team."
697
00:35:11,180 --> 00:35:12,950
Ah!
698
00:35:12,980 --> 00:35:15,150
Hello. Konnichiwa.
Konnichiwa. Konnichiwa.
699
00:35:15,180 --> 00:35:16,910
Konnichiwa.
Konnichiwa.
700
00:35:16,940 --> 00:35:18,790
Oh, it's so lovely to meet you.
701
00:35:18,820 --> 00:35:20,270
Thank you.
702
00:35:20,300 --> 00:35:22,070
Erm, right.
703
00:35:22,100 --> 00:35:24,630
This way?
Please, yeah. Here is your seat.
704
00:35:24,660 --> 00:35:27,470
Me here?
Yeah. OK.
705
00:35:27,500 --> 00:35:29,990
I'm Hisai.
Hisai?
706
00:35:30,020 --> 00:35:32,830
I'm Jane. Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you, too.
707
00:35:32,860 --> 00:35:35,630
And she is today's instructor.
708
00:35:35,660 --> 00:35:37,510
Chie.
Chie.
709
00:35:37,540 --> 00:35:38,990
Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
710
00:35:39,020 --> 00:35:40,870
Yoroshiku onegaishimasu.
711
00:35:40,900 --> 00:35:43,430
Oh! I love it.
712
00:35:43,460 --> 00:35:46,870
I'm gonna learn from the master.
713
00:35:46,900 --> 00:35:50,270
The Japanese calligraphy's
called shodo.
714
00:35:50,300 --> 00:35:52,190
Shodo.
Yeah, in Japanese.
715
00:35:52,220 --> 00:35:54,350
OK.
"Sho" means "writing".
716
00:35:54,380 --> 00:35:55,390
Uh-huh.
717
00:35:55,420 --> 00:35:58,670
"Do" means "way", or "journey".
718
00:35:58,700 --> 00:36:00,070
Uh-huh.
719
00:36:00,100 --> 00:36:05,990
So, the Japanese calligraphy is
an artistic way of writing letters.
720
00:36:06,020 --> 00:36:10,030
It was introduced to Japan
around sixth to seventh century.
721
00:36:10,060 --> 00:36:11,270
Mm-hm.
722
00:36:11,300 --> 00:36:15,110
And even now, we learn
Japanese calligraphy at school.
723
00:36:19,380 --> 00:36:22,390
'I'd have loved to been taught it
in my school.
724
00:36:22,420 --> 00:36:24,070
'What a lovely thing to learn.
725
00:36:25,700 --> 00:36:28,950
'Combining art,
history and spirituality,
726
00:36:28,980 --> 00:36:33,230
'it's amazing that the tradition has
been kept up for so many years.'
727
00:36:33,260 --> 00:36:35,310
Nijuppun gorai kakarimasu no de.
728
00:36:35,340 --> 00:36:38,790
'Like much in Japan,
there's a huge element of ritual.
729
00:36:38,820 --> 00:36:41,350
'First, these big blocks of ink
are diluted
730
00:36:41,380 --> 00:36:45,350
'to create the perfect consistency
to paint even strokes.'
731
00:36:47,500 --> 00:36:52,910
The tips of brush,
the angle is above 45 degree.
732
00:36:52,940 --> 00:36:54,870
OK.
733
00:36:54,900 --> 00:36:56,350
Stop there.
Stop.
734
00:36:56,380 --> 00:36:58,150
Nodorimasu.
735
00:36:58,180 --> 00:36:59,830
OK.
736
00:36:59,860 --> 00:37:01,230
Here we go.
737
00:37:01,260 --> 00:37:03,750
So... yeah.
738
00:37:03,780 --> 00:37:05,750
Mm-hm. Then...
739
00:37:07,540 --> 00:37:08,870
Oh!
All right.
740
00:37:08,900 --> 00:37:10,310
That's a bit rubbish.
741
00:37:10,340 --> 00:37:11,950
LAUGHTER
742
00:37:11,980 --> 00:37:13,390
Looks nothing like yours!
743
00:37:13,420 --> 00:37:15,830
LAUGHTER
744
00:37:15,860 --> 00:37:17,230
Good, good.
745
00:37:17,260 --> 00:37:19,670
LAUGHTER
746
00:37:19,700 --> 00:37:22,350
Colour it in.
You do have to... paint.
747
00:37:22,380 --> 00:37:23,630
Yeah, good.
748
00:37:23,660 --> 00:37:25,590
This is good.
LAUGHTER
749
00:37:27,140 --> 00:37:29,390
'Now, I figured out
the basic strokes.
750
00:37:29,420 --> 00:37:32,750
'Hisai's offered me a catalogue
of designs to copy,
751
00:37:32,780 --> 00:37:34,910
'And I've picked the word "song".'
752
00:37:34,940 --> 00:37:36,110
So...
753
00:37:36,140 --> 00:37:37,230
Wow.
Yeah.
754
00:37:37,260 --> 00:37:38,870
Trust me to pick that one.
755
00:37:38,900 --> 00:37:41,550
So, that's how you do it.
The stroke order.
756
00:37:41,580 --> 00:37:43,190
Uh-huh. OK.
757
00:37:43,220 --> 00:37:44,950
'This isn't painting by numbers,
though.
758
00:37:44,980 --> 00:37:48,230
'You have to really centre yourself
to create the perfect strokes.
759
00:37:48,260 --> 00:37:49,390
OK.
760
00:37:49,420 --> 00:37:52,070
'But slowly I start to feel
a therapeutic calm
761
00:37:52,100 --> 00:37:54,590
'as the brush glides
across the paper.'
762
00:38:00,180 --> 00:38:04,350
Look at that. All those years
of Vision On is paying off.
763
00:38:04,380 --> 00:38:06,190
Looks nothing like that.
764
00:38:06,220 --> 00:38:07,910
Nothing.
SHE LAUGHS
765
00:38:07,940 --> 00:38:12,870
"My calligraphy will not be hanging
in a gallery any time soon,
766
00:38:12,900 --> 00:38:14,550
'but that's not the point.
767
00:38:14,580 --> 00:38:17,950
{\i1}“This experience is also about
achieving tranquility,{\i0}
768
00:38:17,980 --> 00:38:20,590
'and I have had a lovely time here.
769
00:38:20,620 --> 00:38:25,190
'Before I go, Hisai wants to show me
some of her mother's masterpieces,
770
00:38:25,220 --> 00:38:27,390
'and they are just fabulous.'
771
00:38:28,540 --> 00:38:30,270
So, that's love.
772
00:38:31,660 --> 00:38:33,430
Light.
773
00:38:33,460 --> 00:38:36,390
Happiness and song.
Yeah.
774
00:38:36,420 --> 00:38:39,030
Yay! At least I can read it.
775
00:38:39,060 --> 00:38:42,030
I can't write it, but I can read it.
776
00:38:42,060 --> 00:38:44,630
Oh, that is everything in my life.
777
00:38:50,900 --> 00:38:53,190
'Feeling suitably spiritual,
778
00:38:53,220 --> 00:38:56,950
'I'm ready for the final part
of my visit to Nara -
779
00:38:56,980 --> 00:38:58,710
'the stunning National Park,
780
00:38:58,740 --> 00:39:01,550
'site of one of Japan's
oldest shrines,
781
00:39:01,580 --> 00:39:04,270
"and home to over 1,000 wild deer.
782
00:39:04,300 --> 00:39:06,150
"But not THAT wild, apparently.'
783
00:39:07,500 --> 00:39:09,350
Beautiful place.
784
00:39:09,380 --> 00:39:10,990
And I'm here to see some deer
785
00:39:11,020 --> 00:39:15,030
but there's a man over there
who's blowing a horn.
786
00:39:15,060 --> 00:39:20,990
MAN BLOWS HORN
787
00:39:33,060 --> 00:39:35,910
How on earth do the deer know
788
00:39:35,940 --> 00:39:38,190
to come for their dinner
when he blows a horn?
789
00:39:38,220 --> 00:39:43,910
MAN BLOWS HORN
790
00:39:43,940 --> 00:39:48,710
'My guidebook says there's been
deer here for over 1,400 years.
791
00:39:48,740 --> 00:39:52,470
'Considered sacred, they were
offered food and bowed to,
792
00:39:52,500 --> 00:39:55,510
'so now they associate eating
with bowing,
793
00:39:55,540 --> 00:39:58,310
'and they bow right back.
Look at them.
794
00:39:58,340 --> 00:40:01,470
'They are all at it.
That one, that one,
795
00:40:01,500 --> 00:40:03,470
'and even that one.'
796
00:40:03,500 --> 00:40:04,990
Are you coming over?
797
00:40:05,020 --> 00:40:07,230
Come over. Come on.
798
00:40:07,260 --> 00:40:09,830
Come here. Bow. That's it.
799
00:40:09,860 --> 00:40:11,950
Do you speak English?
800
00:40:15,540 --> 00:40:17,270
You're just like me.
801
00:40:17,300 --> 00:40:19,590
You can eat packet of biscuits
in one go, can't you?
802
00:40:19,620 --> 00:40:21,590
Yes, you can!
803
00:40:21,620 --> 00:40:24,310
The deer are just everywhere.
804
00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:26,910
But watch out for deer poo,
805
00:40:26,940 --> 00:40:29,430
cos that is also everywhere.
SHE LAUGHS
806
00:40:32,220 --> 00:40:34,670
SHE LAUGHS
807
00:40:34,700 --> 00:40:36,550
All right, all right!
808
00:40:36,580 --> 00:40:39,390
Ah! All right. Listen!
809
00:40:39,420 --> 00:40:41,870
All right! Oh!
810
00:40:41,900 --> 00:40:43,270
SHE LAUGHS
811
00:40:49,260 --> 00:40:53,990
"Kasuga Taisha is considered one of
the most sacred sites in Japan.
812
00:40:54,020 --> 00:40:56,270
'And it's inspired me to reflect
813
00:40:56,300 --> 00:40:58,390
'on what a wonderful country
I've visited.'
814
00:41:08,260 --> 00:41:10,750
Japan is the trip of a lifetime,
815
00:41:10,780 --> 00:41:14,390
where the old shakes hands
with the new.
816
00:41:14,420 --> 00:41:17,150
But it's the people who make it
extra special.
817
00:41:17,180 --> 00:41:21,070
'They will stay in my heart
forever.'
818
00:41:21,100 --> 00:41:24,070
They are polite, welcoming,
819
00:41:24,100 --> 00:41:28,030
and have manners not seen anywhere
in the world but here.
820
00:41:28,060 --> 00:41:29,990
Hello, Akiko!
Nice to meet you.
821
00:41:30,020 --> 00:41:35,790
Tokyo was wild, busy, full of fun,
and the future.
822
00:41:35,820 --> 00:41:38,710
Wakefield is a city
in West Yorkshire.
823
00:41:38,740 --> 00:41:40,430
Doki Doki. Doki Doki.
waku Waku.
824
00:41:40,460 --> 00:41:42,310
Waku Waku.
Waku Waku.
825
00:41:42,340 --> 00:41:44,030
JANE YELLS
826
00:41:44,060 --> 00:41:46,430
'What a place.'
827
00:41:46,460 --> 00:41:48,550
Kyoto was very traditional.
828
00:41:49,820 --> 00:41:54,710
Lots of shrines there, and temples.
Just beautiful.
829
00:41:54,740 --> 00:41:57,030
It is quite spectacular, isn't it?
830
00:41:57,060 --> 00:41:58,630
JANE YELLS
831
00:41:58,660 --> 00:42:00,030
LAUGHTER
832
00:42:00,060 --> 00:42:01,550
I'm rubbish at this game!
833
00:42:01,580 --> 00:42:05,190
And then, Osaka - wow!
834
00:42:05,220 --> 00:42:07,230
The kitchen of Japan.
835
00:42:07,260 --> 00:42:08,630
Kanpai!
Kanpai!
836
00:42:08,660 --> 00:42:10,550
Very chewy.
837
00:42:10,580 --> 00:42:14,030
Full of wonderment and delicacies
838
00:42:14,060 --> 00:42:17,190
that are really different
to anywhere else.
839
00:42:19,020 --> 00:42:21,030
Oh, that is so good!
840
00:42:21,060 --> 00:42:22,110
Thank you very much.
841
00:42:23,540 --> 00:42:28,030
Every city has its own personality
and its own magic,
842
00:42:28,060 --> 00:42:30,830
and it's definitely,
definitely cast a spell on me.
843
00:42:30,860 --> 00:42:35,070
'This has been a trip like no other.
844
00:42:35,100 --> 00:42:38,830
'A truly wonderful,
once-in-a-lifetime adventure.'
845
00:42:38,860 --> 00:42:43,430
I have finally found out
what Zen means,
846
00:42:43,460 --> 00:42:47,670
and I think you really have to come
to Japan to find it.
847
00:42:47,700 --> 00:42:53,190
It's about living in the moment,
experiencing life as it happens.
848
00:42:53,220 --> 00:42:56,150
And that is very,
very important for all of us.
58363
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