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1
00:00:03,300 --> 00:00:07,870
'I'm travelling the world by train
on a series of incredible journeys.'
2
00:00:07,900 --> 00:00:10,830
TRAIN HORN BLARES
Beat the queue.
3
00:00:10,860 --> 00:00:14,110
'There will be spectacular scenery.'
4
00:00:14,140 --> 00:00:15,550
It's absolutely stunning.
5
00:00:15,580 --> 00:00:18,990
I genuinely can't believe I'm here.
Somebody pinch me.
6
00:00:19,020 --> 00:00:20,910
'I'll meet amazing people.'
7
00:00:20,940 --> 00:00:23,270
I've brought some rope
and some fruit.
8
00:00:23,300 --> 00:00:26,990
'They'll push me to my limits
in extraordinary places...'
9
00:00:27,020 --> 00:00:28,390
HE WHIMPERS
10
00:00:28,420 --> 00:00:30,590
'..and show me astonishing sights.'
11
00:00:30,620 --> 00:00:32,910
HE CHUCKLES
12
00:00:32,940 --> 00:00:36,150
Oh, my word, look at that.
I'm holding a piece of real artwork.
13
00:00:37,580 --> 00:00:39,510
That's ridiculously good.
14
00:00:39,540 --> 00:00:41,670
I discover incredible feats
of engineering.
15
00:00:41,700 --> 00:00:43,270
TRAIN HORN BLARES
16
00:00:43,300 --> 00:00:45,190
I'm feeling this might be
another switch back.
17
00:00:45,220 --> 00:00:47,550
'And I'll go beyond
the tourist trail
18
00:00:47,580 --> 00:00:50,350
'to find out what life's like
along the track.'
19
00:00:50,380 --> 00:00:52,590
I'm very rarely stuck for words,
but I have to say,
20
00:00:52,620 --> 00:00:55,070
this is one of the most
gobsmacking places I've ever been.
21
00:00:55,100 --> 00:00:56,670
Skal, everyone.
22
00:00:56,700 --> 00:00:59,790
'These are my
Amazing Railway journeys.'
23
00:00:59,820 --> 00:01:04,630
So, sit back, put your feet up
and enjoy the ride. All aboard!
24
00:01:04,660 --> 00:01:06,750
It's just so much fun!
25
00:01:27,780 --> 00:01:30,390
'This time, I'm in Vietnam,
26
00:01:30,420 --> 00:01:35,550
'travelling a railway line
built over 100 years ago.
27
00:01:35,580 --> 00:01:38,350
'I enjoy the thrill
of a front-row ticket...'
28
00:01:38,380 --> 00:01:41,990
Wow! Look how close it is!
29
00:01:42,020 --> 00:01:44,150
'..Find a new use
for old medicine...'
30
00:01:44,180 --> 00:01:46,830
Ha-ha, so it's a hangover cure?
31
00:01:46,860 --> 00:01:48,470
Yes.
HE LAUGHS
32
00:01:48,500 --> 00:01:51,430
'..and fulfil a lifelong ambition.'
33
00:01:51,460 --> 00:01:54,550
It is truly spectacular
and beautiful.
34
00:02:04,660 --> 00:02:06,870
'The line I'm taking
was built by the French
35
00:02:06,900 --> 00:02:09,390
'when Vietnam was its colony.
36
00:02:09,420 --> 00:02:11,590
'It's a long, thin country,
37
00:02:11,620 --> 00:02:15,790
'and my adventure starts at
the railway's most northerly point.'
38
00:02:15,820 --> 00:02:17,630
This is Lao Cai station,
39
00:02:17,660 --> 00:02:19,790
where my journey
through Vietnam begins,
40
00:02:19,820 --> 00:02:21,590
and the reason the station's here
41
00:02:21,620 --> 00:02:24,070
is because ten minutes
down the track in that direction
42
00:02:24,100 --> 00:02:26,230
is China.
43
00:02:26,260 --> 00:02:29,190
And there's a train due any minute.
44
00:02:29,220 --> 00:02:31,550
'My journey will take me
the length of the line.
45
00:02:31,580 --> 00:02:33,510
'From the Chinese border at Lao Cai,
46
00:02:33,540 --> 00:02:36,150
'I'll head south
to the bustling city of Hanoi,
47
00:02:36,180 --> 00:02:38,350
'and then on
to the port of Haiphong,
48
00:02:38,380 --> 00:02:41,670
'where the stunning scenery
of Ha Long Bay awaits.'
49
00:02:45,620 --> 00:02:48,470
Here it comes.
TRAIN HORN BLARES
50
00:02:48,500 --> 00:02:51,670
'I love the way trains announce
themselves with their horns.'
51
00:02:58,300 --> 00:02:59,670
I know what you're thinking -
52
00:02:59,700 --> 00:03:01,870
that's a freight train,
not a passenger train.
53
00:03:01,900 --> 00:03:03,670
You'd be absolutely right.
54
00:03:03,700 --> 00:03:07,910
You see, when the French built
the track between 1901 and 1910,
55
00:03:07,940 --> 00:03:10,390
it was to bring freight from China
56
00:03:10,420 --> 00:03:13,190
all the way down
to the coast at Haiphong.
57
00:03:13,220 --> 00:03:15,710
'Today, the line carries fertiliser
58
00:03:15,740 --> 00:03:17,910
'and electronics
from China's booming economy,
59
00:03:17,940 --> 00:03:21,230
'with foods like mango, bananas
and watermelon going the other way.
60
00:03:21,260 --> 00:03:24,710
'When it was built by the French,
they intended to use it
61
00:03:24,740 --> 00:03:27,750
'for shipping goods
between Europe and China.'
62
00:03:27,780 --> 00:03:30,030
But very quickly,
they were making more money
63
00:03:30,060 --> 00:03:32,230
out of carrying passengers
and freight,
64
00:03:32,260 --> 00:03:36,030
and the reason was people from Hanoi
were escaping the heat of the city
65
00:03:36,060 --> 00:03:38,670
and coming up here to the mountains
to enjoy the cooler air.
66
00:03:38,700 --> 00:03:40,630
Now, my train doesn't go
until tomorrow,
67
00:03:40,660 --> 00:03:42,910
so I've got a bit of time
to have a look at the mountains
68
00:03:42,940 --> 00:03:44,710
and see what they came here for.
69
00:03:50,620 --> 00:03:52,350
'The cooler air in these hills
70
00:03:52,380 --> 00:03:54,390
'may have provided
a welcome escape
71
00:03:54,420 --> 00:03:57,910
'for the wealthy citizens of Hanoi,
but they've been home
72
00:03:57,940 --> 00:04:01,310
to some of Vietnam's many
indigenous groups for centuries.
73
00:04:05,540 --> 00:04:07,470
'I'm here in winter.
74
00:04:07,500 --> 00:04:10,510
'It may be a little misty,
but this is a good time to visit,
75
00:04:10,540 --> 00:04:13,830
'because the rainy season's over,
and it's warm.'
76
00:04:21,780 --> 00:04:24,070
HE SIGHS
77
00:04:24,100 --> 00:04:27,710
That was a bit of a climb.
So, this is a family settlement.
78
00:04:27,740 --> 00:04:30,830
There are over 50 ethnic groups
around Vietnam,
79
00:04:30,860 --> 00:04:34,670
and six different ones live up here
around this area called Sapa.
80
00:04:37,980 --> 00:04:39,870
'A family of the Red Dzao,
81
00:04:39,900 --> 00:04:42,390
'famous for their medicines
and beautiful embroidery,
82
00:04:42,420 --> 00:04:44,190
'have agreed to meet me.'
83
00:04:48,140 --> 00:04:50,310
Hello.
Hello! How are you?
84
00:04:50,340 --> 00:04:52,550
My name Mai Ly.
Nice to meet you.
85
00:04:52,580 --> 00:04:56,790
You want to come with me
to the forest to cut the medicine?
86
00:04:56,820 --> 00:04:58,430
That sounds great.
I'd love to have a go.
87
00:04:58,460 --> 00:05:01,070
Yeah, and my friend come with me.
88
00:05:01,100 --> 00:05:04,550
'And they've said I can try
one of their legendary herbal baths.
89
00:05:04,580 --> 00:05:06,710
'But first,
we need to collect the herbs.'
90
00:05:06,740 --> 00:05:08,510
Interesting commute to work.
91
00:05:08,540 --> 00:05:10,790
THEY LAUGH
Yeah. Good exercise.
92
00:05:10,820 --> 00:05:13,430
It is good exercise.
93
00:05:13,460 --> 00:05:15,630
'So I'm heading up the hill
behind their house
94
00:05:15,660 --> 00:05:18,030
'with family friend Becka
and Mai Ly.'
95
00:05:20,700 --> 00:05:22,310
You cut this one?
Yeah.
96
00:05:22,340 --> 00:05:24,550
This one, and then we also do
for the herbal bath.
97
00:05:24,580 --> 00:05:28,430
The smell, and they are
for protect the mosquito.
98
00:05:28,460 --> 00:05:30,270
Oh, protection from mosquitoes?
Yeah.
99
00:05:30,300 --> 00:05:34,150
Yeah. Smells a little bit like
the sort of mosquito stuff we get.
100
00:05:34,180 --> 00:05:38,190
Yeah. So, this also for the bath,
also very good for the bones.
101
00:05:38,220 --> 00:05:41,190
If some people, they fall down,
to break the leg,
102
00:05:41,220 --> 00:05:43,150
we can use this to put in the leg,
103
00:05:43,180 --> 00:05:45,950
and then we keep about one hour,
that is good for the bone.
104
00:05:49,220 --> 00:05:50,950
This is for indigo.
105
00:05:50,980 --> 00:05:53,150
Oh, it's indigo, is it?
Yeah, indigo.
106
00:05:53,180 --> 00:05:54,350
I've heard of indigo.
107
00:05:54,380 --> 00:05:56,670
We use it to make our clothes,
like a blue colour.
108
00:05:56,700 --> 00:06:00,750
You see this? We use, we make
the colour to put in our fabric.
109
00:06:00,780 --> 00:06:03,190
You wanna try?
If I do your hand blue?
110
00:06:03,220 --> 00:06:04,710
I hold your knife,
111
00:06:04,740 --> 00:06:07,590
and then you can have to make
the leaves blue together.
112
00:06:09,940 --> 00:06:13,230
Then green, after,
you keep for five, ten minutes,
113
00:06:13,260 --> 00:06:14,350
and the blue come out.
114
00:06:14,380 --> 00:06:16,950
OK, so if I stop now,
that'll come out blue? Yeah, stop.
115
00:06:16,980 --> 00:06:20,870
That medicine,
and then we can make tea also.
116
00:06:20,900 --> 00:06:22,150
So, the tea, is that...?
117
00:06:22,180 --> 00:06:24,350
What does that help with?
Is that for digestion?
118
00:06:24,380 --> 00:06:28,110
Good for... We make sometime,
we drink some rice wine,
119
00:06:28,140 --> 00:06:29,870
and then if we got
a little bit sick,
120
00:06:29,900 --> 00:06:32,510
and we have to use
that medicine for drinking.
121
00:06:32,540 --> 00:06:33,990
HE LAUGHS
So it's a hangover cure?
122
00:06:34,020 --> 00:06:35,590
Yeah.
HE LAUGHS
123
00:06:42,380 --> 00:06:44,950
We've only come
about 100ft from your house,
124
00:06:44,980 --> 00:06:48,270
and there's all these different
herbs, just straight away.
125
00:06:48,300 --> 00:06:49,750
In the forest, actually,
126
00:06:49,780 --> 00:06:53,990
we have about 55 different types
of herbs for the bath.
127
00:06:54,020 --> 00:06:55,590
People here,
we live on the mountain.
128
00:06:55,620 --> 00:06:57,750
We don't have any hospital
in the village,
129
00:06:57,780 --> 00:06:59,110
and when the people get sick,
130
00:06:59,140 --> 00:07:01,310
everyone, they have
to find the plant.
131
00:07:01,340 --> 00:07:04,950
'Knowing which herbs could be used
as medicine was a necessity,
132
00:07:04,980 --> 00:07:09,270
'but then other uses emerged, too,
like the indigo dye.'
133
00:07:09,300 --> 00:07:12,030
Oh, now you see your hand
is getting blue.
134
00:07:12,060 --> 00:07:14,470
HE LAUGHS
Oh, beautiful.
135
00:07:14,500 --> 00:07:16,670
It's starting to turn blue.
My hand, too.
136
00:07:16,700 --> 00:07:20,270
Also getting blue.
Look here, oh, both of you.
137
00:07:20,300 --> 00:07:22,230
Let's see. Wow!
138
00:07:22,260 --> 00:07:23,390
How long will it stay blue?
139
00:07:23,420 --> 00:07:26,070
They can stay, for you,
like, a week.
140
00:07:26,100 --> 00:07:28,470
SHE LAUGHS
Right. Yes.
141
00:07:28,500 --> 00:07:30,390
HE LAUGHS
OK, we go back?
142
00:07:30,420 --> 00:07:32,070
Yeah, let's go back.
143
00:07:34,700 --> 00:07:37,230
'With the herbs collected,
it's back down the hill
144
00:07:37,260 --> 00:07:40,630
'for a chance to see their homestead
- where my bath awaits.'
145
00:07:44,580 --> 00:07:46,750
Come in.
146
00:07:46,780 --> 00:07:48,150
I'll duck my head.
Yeah.
147
00:07:48,180 --> 00:07:49,670
Careful!
Yeah.
148
00:07:51,900 --> 00:07:54,030
OK. Have they got
some cooking going on? Yeah.
149
00:07:55,500 --> 00:07:57,910
My friend make tofu.
150
00:07:57,940 --> 00:08:00,230
Wow, that looks like hard work.
Yeah, very hard work.
151
00:08:00,260 --> 00:08:02,430
Because we have the soya bean
we grow here.
152
00:08:02,460 --> 00:08:04,470
Nice.
Yeah.
153
00:08:04,500 --> 00:08:05,750
It's big, isn't it?
Yeah.
154
00:08:05,780 --> 00:08:08,750
It's hard wood as well.
Be careful.
155
00:08:08,780 --> 00:08:10,710
Yeah, I'm ducking again.
HE CHUCKLES
156
00:08:10,740 --> 00:08:12,430
This is the bath house.
157
00:08:16,060 --> 00:08:17,830
Oh, look at this.
Yeah, you have a bath.
158
00:08:17,860 --> 00:08:19,830
We have hot water, you can try.
159
00:08:19,860 --> 00:08:21,350
How hot you want?
Yeah, it's nice.
160
00:08:21,380 --> 00:08:24,470
I mean, it's hot, but it's OK,
I think, yeah. That's lovely.
161
00:08:24,500 --> 00:08:26,910
Well, you should go,
I should get changed,
162
00:08:26,940 --> 00:08:30,150
and to be honest,
you're not gonna watch. Enjoy.
163
00:08:36,420 --> 00:08:38,070
HE SIGHS
164
00:08:38,100 --> 00:08:42,230
That's amazing. Smells great, too.
165
00:08:43,740 --> 00:08:46,910
And apparently, it's gonna be good
for my back, for my skin,
166
00:08:46,940 --> 00:08:50,550
for my bones, for my muscles,
for my joints.
167
00:08:50,580 --> 00:08:53,670
It's kind of amazing, the setup
they've got here, don't you think?
168
00:08:53,700 --> 00:08:55,390
I mean, subsistence farmers,
169
00:08:55,420 --> 00:08:58,630
they've got everything
they need on the land to eat.
170
00:08:58,660 --> 00:09:01,590
All the medical stuff they need.
In fact, they're so good at it,
171
00:09:01,620 --> 00:09:03,190
people come from miles around
to get it.
172
00:09:05,140 --> 00:09:07,710
You know, with all our modern ways,
we think we've got it sorted.
173
00:09:07,740 --> 00:09:10,350
I'm not sure that
this isn't a better way to live.
174
00:09:15,100 --> 00:09:18,750
NICK SINGS: # Nessun dorma
175
00:09:18,780 --> 00:09:20,710
# Nessun dorma... #
176
00:09:20,740 --> 00:09:22,430
SPLASHING
177
00:09:22,460 --> 00:09:26,670
'Well, I've tasted the simple life,
and what a life!
178
00:09:26,700 --> 00:09:29,590
'But it's now time
to see how the other half live.
179
00:09:36,500 --> 00:09:38,670
'This is Sapa.
180
00:09:38,700 --> 00:09:41,750
'Not only do the wealthy of Hanoi
come here to escape the heat,
181
00:09:41,780 --> 00:09:43,030
'but tourists, too,
182
00:09:43,060 --> 00:09:46,510
'travelling from all over the world
to explore the beautiful mountains,
183
00:09:46,540 --> 00:09:50,710
'still using the line built
by the French all those years ago.
184
00:09:54,180 --> 00:09:56,590
'To cater for the influx
of wealthy tourists,
185
00:09:56,620 --> 00:10:00,790
'they've just built
a truly luxury five-star hotel.
186
00:10:00,820 --> 00:10:03,230
'Fresh from my hot herbal bath,
187
00:10:03,260 --> 00:10:05,750
'I'm meeting marketing manager
Alice Park.'
188
00:10:09,060 --> 00:10:10,910
Hello, Alice.
Hello, Nick.
189
00:10:10,940 --> 00:10:12,510
Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
190
00:10:12,540 --> 00:10:14,950
I'm very excited to see the hotel.
Excited to show you around.
191
00:10:16,980 --> 00:10:20,230
So, Nick,
welcome to Hotel de la Coupole.
192
00:10:20,260 --> 00:10:22,270
Wow! Look at this!
193
00:10:22,300 --> 00:10:24,190
Indeed.
I was not expecting this.
194
00:10:24,220 --> 00:10:26,070
I really was not expecting this.
195
00:10:26,100 --> 00:10:29,230
Thank you.
HE CH UCKLES
196
00:10:29,260 --> 00:10:32,590
Le Grand Bassin -
literally means "grand bathtub".
197
00:10:32,620 --> 00:10:36,910
I'm absolutely gobsmacked.
I mean, it's just so opulent.
198
00:10:36,940 --> 00:10:38,470
Look at the chandeliers
over the pool.
199
00:10:38,500 --> 00:10:40,910
So, they must have spent
a lot of money on this?
200
00:10:40,940 --> 00:10:42,630
How much did it cost
to build the hotel?
201
00:10:42,660 --> 00:10:45,150
If I'm not mistaken, 250 million.
202
00:10:45,180 --> 00:10:48,550
'That's dollars,
which is over £200 million.'
203
00:10:48,580 --> 00:10:50,510
Wow, that's a real statement,
isn't it?
204
00:10:52,340 --> 00:10:54,630
An equally grand bar.
205
00:10:54,660 --> 00:10:56,150
Who was the designer?
206
00:10:56,180 --> 00:11:00,030
Bill Bensley.
He's American, Harvard graduate.
207
00:11:00,060 --> 00:11:02,630
He called himself "maximalist".
Yeah.
208
00:11:02,660 --> 00:11:05,070
I like that, though.
Rather than minimalist, maximalist.
209
00:11:05,100 --> 00:11:06,430
I mean, it has, you know,
210
00:11:06,460 --> 00:11:08,630
glass tiles on the ceiling
to reflect the light,
211
00:11:08,660 --> 00:11:11,550
the big chandeliers, the uniforms.
The whole thing makes me feel,
212
00:11:11,580 --> 00:11:14,110
like, you know, like,
Murder On The Orient Express.
213
00:11:14,140 --> 00:11:16,430
Oh, right, yes.
It's like that in a hotel.
214
00:11:18,700 --> 00:11:21,270
'So, what about the rooms?'
215
00:11:21,300 --> 00:11:24,990
Thank you for showing me around.
Come and have a look.
216
00:11:25,020 --> 00:11:26,470
Woo-hoo, look at this!
217
00:11:26,500 --> 00:11:30,350
'Quite a change from a bath
in a barrel on a hillside.'
218
00:11:30,380 --> 00:11:33,870
His and hers sinks.
Big French roll top bath.
219
00:11:33,900 --> 00:11:36,190
'This is the height of luxury,
220
00:11:36,220 --> 00:11:39,630
'and every bit as glorious
as that fantastic herbal bath -
221
00:11:39,660 --> 00:11:41,270
'and what a contrast.
222
00:11:48,700 --> 00:11:50,230
'After a great night's rest
223
00:11:50,260 --> 00:11:53,110
'in one of Vietnam's
most luxurious hotels,
224
00:11:53,140 --> 00:11:55,550
'it's time
to head back to the station.'
225
00:11:55,580 --> 00:11:57,830
So, after two very different
experiences
226
00:11:57,860 --> 00:12:00,070
up in the mountains here,
I'm back at Lao Cai station.
227
00:12:00,100 --> 00:12:01,350
It's just getting dark,
228
00:12:01,380 --> 00:12:03,870
because the train I'm taking
to Hanoi is a night train.
229
00:12:12,700 --> 00:12:15,150
'On the next leg
of my Vietnam journey...'
230
00:12:15,180 --> 00:12:18,110
TRAIN HORN BLARES
'..the night train to Hanoi.'
231
00:12:18,140 --> 00:12:19,630
Think I'm gonna enjoy this.
232
00:12:19,660 --> 00:12:23,990
'And in the capital, I get to taste
a Vietnamese speciality.
233
00:12:24,020 --> 00:12:25,870
That is...
Yeah?
234
00:12:25,900 --> 00:12:28,350
That's coffee-flavoured custard.
I like that a lot.
235
00:12:41,780 --> 00:12:44,510
'I'm travelling
Vietnam's oldest rail route.
236
00:12:46,860 --> 00:12:49,350
There's not much width
in these for people my size.
237
00:12:49,380 --> 00:12:50,750
HE CHUCKLES
238
00:12:50,780 --> 00:12:53,670
'I'm taking the sleeper to Hanoi.
239
00:12:53,700 --> 00:12:56,030
'As the train fills up,
I find my berth
240
00:12:56,060 --> 00:12:58,230
'and settle in
for the journey ahead.'
241
00:13:03,620 --> 00:13:05,910
There you go, and we are underway.
242
00:13:05,940 --> 00:13:08,030
Night train to Hanoi.
243
00:13:11,220 --> 00:13:12,590
I quite like sleeper trains.
244
00:13:12,620 --> 00:13:15,550
I've only been on one,
from London to Scotland,
245
00:13:15,580 --> 00:13:18,310
but the rocking motion and the...
HE IMITATES TRAIN
246
00:13:18,340 --> 00:13:20,750
...| actually find
sends you off to sleep,
247
00:13:20,780 --> 00:13:22,750
even in a small bed.
248
00:13:22,780 --> 00:13:24,470
It actually looks
quite plush in here.
249
00:13:24,500 --> 00:13:26,670
Think I'm gonna enjoy this.
250
00:13:26,700 --> 00:13:29,150
Looking forward to seeing Hanoi
as well.
251
00:13:29,180 --> 00:13:31,750
The hustle and bustle
after the mountains.
252
00:13:31,780 --> 00:13:34,470
Right, better get my bedclothes on,
I suppose.
253
00:13:40,100 --> 00:13:42,270
'The sleeper
takes around eight hours
254
00:13:42,300 --> 00:13:46,470
'to wind its way through nearly
200 miles of Vietnamese countryside
255
00:13:46,500 --> 00:13:48,590
'while I sleep like a baby.
256
00:13:58,580 --> 00:14:01,630
'The train gets into Hanoi so early,
I'm up before the sun,
257
00:14:01,660 --> 00:14:03,750
'which doesn't happen often,
believe me.
258
00:14:05,140 --> 00:14:06,870
'I need a coffee...'
259
00:14:06,900 --> 00:14:09,070
It's nice coffee, this,
actually, to be honest.
260
00:14:09,100 --> 00:14:11,950
'..Which, I'm pleased to say,
is available in every carriage.'
261
00:14:14,900 --> 00:14:18,150
Oh, yeah. Gotta start the day
with a cup of coffee.
262
00:14:18,180 --> 00:14:21,830
Although Hanoi is known
for a particular type of coffee.
263
00:14:23,020 --> 00:14:25,390
In the meantime,
this will do to get me started.
264
00:14:30,140 --> 00:14:31,830
'The train is bang on time,
265
00:14:31,860 --> 00:14:34,870
'so my first sight of Hanoi
is in the dark,
266
00:14:34,900 --> 00:14:36,790
'and the city is still waking up.
267
00:14:38,380 --> 00:14:40,070
'The station was rebuilt
in the '70s,
268
00:14:40,100 --> 00:14:42,550
'after it was damaged
in the Vietnam War,
269
00:14:42,580 --> 00:14:44,270
'and now I'm here...'
270
00:14:45,660 --> 00:14:48,550
Good morni-i-ing, Hanoi!
271
00:14:48,580 --> 00:14:50,470
'Yeah, sorry, couldn't resist.
272
00:14:50,500 --> 00:14:53,590
'I'm meeting someone
a short hop across the city
273
00:14:53,620 --> 00:14:56,230
'for a proper coffee,
and the best way to get around Hanoi
274
00:14:56,260 --> 00:14:57,990
'is via the brand-new metro.'
275
00:14:59,380 --> 00:15:03,830
'Built with Chinese investment
at a cost of over £700 million,
276
00:15:03,860 --> 00:15:07,270
'the eight miles of track
connects 12 stations.
277
00:15:07,300 --> 00:15:10,590
'It's so early, the rush hour
hasn't even started yet.'
278
00:15:13,500 --> 00:15:15,190
All very modern, isn't it?
279
00:15:17,260 --> 00:15:20,910
Get my first proper view
of Hanoi now.
280
00:15:27,020 --> 00:15:28,990
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam,
281
00:15:29,020 --> 00:15:31,350
with a population
of over five million.
282
00:15:35,780 --> 00:15:38,470
Everywhere I look,
there's a mixture of old and new.
283
00:15:45,260 --> 00:15:49,670
So, this is Hanoi's metro,
or, as they call it, urban railway.
284
00:15:49,700 --> 00:15:51,550
It's only been open a year.
285
00:15:51,580 --> 00:15:53,430
They only have one line
running at the moment,
286
00:15:53,460 --> 00:15:56,750
but they have ambitions
to build another nine in this city.
287
00:15:59,980 --> 00:16:03,190
It's the first of its kind
anywhere in Vietnam,
288
00:16:03,220 --> 00:16:05,550
and they're building another one
down in Ho Chi Minh City.
289
00:16:05,580 --> 00:16:08,390
It's a real sort of symbol
290
00:16:08,420 --> 00:16:11,510
of Vietnam's growing wealth
and ambition.
291
00:16:12,820 --> 00:16:14,910
And it's up high, too,
so you get to see the city.
292
00:16:16,020 --> 00:16:17,630
It's great, actually.
293
00:16:17,660 --> 00:16:19,990
I've just got off one of
Vietnam's oldest railways,
294
00:16:20,020 --> 00:16:23,470
and now I'm on
the newest railway line.
295
00:16:29,620 --> 00:16:31,990
'In the few minutes
it takes to reach my stop,
296
00:16:32,020 --> 00:16:36,830
'the train fills up with the first
of up to 30,000 daily commuters.'
297
00:16:39,620 --> 00:16:41,750
Loads of commuters
on their way to work.
298
00:16:41,780 --> 00:16:43,390
They obviously needed a metro.
299
00:16:43,420 --> 00:16:45,630
BEEPING
300
00:16:55,060 --> 00:16:57,390
'Leaving the comfort of the metro
behind,
301
00:16:57,420 --> 00:16:59,870
'I'm confronted
with what seems to be
302
00:16:59,900 --> 00:17:03,630
'every single one
of Hanoi's five million scooters.'
303
00:17:03,660 --> 00:17:07,070
Crossing the street here,
304
00:17:07,100 --> 00:17:08,750
you really take your life
in your hands.
305
00:17:08,780 --> 00:17:10,670
There ARE zebra crossings,
306
00:17:10,700 --> 00:17:13,070
but nobody takes any notice of them
at all,
307
00:17:13,100 --> 00:17:16,310
so you just
have to kind of go for it.
308
00:17:16,340 --> 00:17:19,750
This is slightly "Hanoi-ing".
309
00:17:19,780 --> 00:17:22,430
Thank you. Very good.
310
00:17:22,460 --> 00:17:27,190
And then you just have to
pile through the traffic...
311
00:17:27,220 --> 00:17:29,350
HORN HOOTS
312
00:17:29,380 --> 00:17:31,870
...and hope for the best.
313
00:17:33,140 --> 00:17:36,750
'I'm meeting Nikita,
who's a local tour guide.
314
00:17:36,780 --> 00:17:40,350
'She's promised me
the best coffee I've ever tasted.'
315
00:17:40,380 --> 00:17:43,470
So, my guide said to meet her
by the fountain.
316
00:17:43,500 --> 00:17:46,910
That's the fountain,
so that must be her.
317
00:17:46,940 --> 00:17:48,310
Yeah, that's her.
318
00:17:48,340 --> 00:17:49,790
HE LAUGHS
319
00:17:53,860 --> 00:17:56,030
Hi, hi!
How're you doing?
320
00:17:56,060 --> 00:17:57,670
Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
321
00:17:57,700 --> 00:17:58,910
I'm Nick.
I'm Nikita.
322
00:17:58,940 --> 00:18:01,110
Are we going for some coffee?
Yeah, sure.
323
00:18:01,140 --> 00:18:04,150
'Her specialism is finding
hidden food and drink haunts
324
00:18:04,180 --> 00:18:06,470
'off the main tourist trail.
325
00:18:08,300 --> 00:18:11,150
'And when I say hidden,
I do mean hidden.'
326
00:18:13,820 --> 00:18:16,830
So, where are we having coffee?
Yes.
327
00:18:18,100 --> 00:18:19,790
In this?
Yeah.
328
00:18:19,820 --> 00:18:20,830
THEY CHUCKLE
329
00:18:20,860 --> 00:18:22,910
It looks closed. It looks...
330
00:18:22,940 --> 00:18:25,070
I wouldn't ever
choose to come in here.
331
00:18:25,100 --> 00:18:26,470
Well, you're in Hanoi.
332
00:18:26,500 --> 00:18:28,790
Every corner of Hanoi
will give you a big surprise.
333
00:18:28,820 --> 00:18:32,510
'Well, I put myself in her hands,
so here goes.'
334
00:18:32,540 --> 00:18:34,550
Come here.
335
00:18:34,580 --> 00:18:36,670
Oh, my word!
336
00:18:40,940 --> 00:18:43,310
Oh, it's beautiful!
Yeah.
337
00:18:43,340 --> 00:18:46,670
Look at all the little birdcages
hanging on the walls here!
338
00:18:48,300 --> 00:18:50,550
And...
The motorbikes?
339
00:18:50,580 --> 00:18:53,230
Motorbike park in here as well!
Right.
340
00:18:58,620 --> 00:19:00,110
Thank you very much.
341
00:19:01,820 --> 00:19:03,110
Look at this!
342
00:19:09,420 --> 00:19:11,590
So, what are we ordering?
Egg coffee.
343
00:19:11,620 --> 00:19:13,030
Egg coffee?
Yes.
344
00:19:13,060 --> 00:19:15,750
OK. How do I order it?
There's no waitress.
345
00:19:15,780 --> 00:19:17,910
When you're waiting
for the waitress to come to us,
346
00:19:17,940 --> 00:19:19,190
you're gonna shout.
347
00:19:19,220 --> 00:19:20,670
Shout?
Yes.
348
00:19:20,700 --> 00:19:23,030
Isn't that rude?
No, it's not, it's very common here.
349
00:19:23,060 --> 00:19:24,670
Who do I shout to?
What, the kitchen?
350
00:19:24,700 --> 00:19:27,470
Right, I'm going to show you
how to make an order. OK?
351
00:19:27,500 --> 00:19:29,710
All the staff here,
they look younger than us. Right.
352
00:19:29,740 --> 00:19:32,590
Right, when they're younger
than you, you call them "em".
353
00:19:32,620 --> 00:19:35,310
OK.
OK, and you call, "Em oi."
354
00:19:35,340 --> 00:19:38,510
Mean, "Hey, you."
Oh, I see, so it's "Em oi"...
355
00:19:38,540 --> 00:19:40,750
"Em" mean, like, little sister.
Younger than you.
356
00:19:40,780 --> 00:19:42,950
THEY LAUGH
357
00:19:42,980 --> 00:19:45,110
Call them down there,
now they look at you.
358
00:19:45,140 --> 00:19:46,310
And, but how do I order coffee?
359
00:19:46,340 --> 00:19:50,390
OK, so, ca phe trung nong.
360
00:19:50,420 --> 00:19:52,110
Trung?
Nong- N0ng_
361
00:19:52,140 --> 00:19:53,470
Nov')-
NuflQ-
362
00:19:53,500 --> 00:19:56,070
Yeah, almost.
Em oi...
363
00:19:56,100 --> 00:19:58,390
BOTH: Ca phe trung nong.
364
00:19:58,420 --> 00:19:59,830
Yes.
365
00:19:59,860 --> 00:20:02,790
Em oi, ca phe trung nong.
366
00:20:02,820 --> 00:20:04,510
Was that OK?!
367
00:20:04,540 --> 00:20:07,350
Yeah, that's good! They understand.
368
00:20:08,540 --> 00:20:11,750
'How about that?
I must have got it right first time.
369
00:20:11,780 --> 00:20:14,350
'It was the French
who brought coffee to Vietnam.
370
00:20:14,380 --> 00:20:17,190
'Now it's one of
the largest exporters of beans,
371
00:20:17,220 --> 00:20:20,830
'used mostly
for making instant coffee.'
372
00:20:20,860 --> 00:20:22,710
Is this for us?
Yes. Oh, good.
373
00:20:22,740 --> 00:20:24,110
Can I take one of those? Thank you.
374
00:20:24,140 --> 00:20:26,910
Ooh.
This is very thick.
375
00:20:26,940 --> 00:20:29,830
Yeah.
There is a rule to drink egg coffee.
376
00:20:29,860 --> 00:20:33,030
Yes?
First you taste the cream first.
377
00:20:33,060 --> 00:20:34,510
It's thick, like custard.
378
00:20:36,220 --> 00:20:38,390
Oh! That's delicious! That is...
379
00:20:38,420 --> 00:20:40,910
Yeah.
That's coffee-flavoured custard.
380
00:20:40,940 --> 00:20:42,230
I like that a lot.
381
00:20:42,260 --> 00:20:43,950
And after you taste
the cream on the top,
382
00:20:43,980 --> 00:20:46,990
you mix it up, try to make
the coffee in the bottom going up.
383
00:20:47,020 --> 00:20:48,710
Oh, there's coffee in the bottom
as well?
384
00:20:48,740 --> 00:20:50,750
Right, so it's a combo
of a drink and a dessert.
385
00:20:50,780 --> 00:20:52,190
Oh, I see!
Yeah.
386
00:20:52,220 --> 00:20:53,830
So, what's in it?
How do they make it?
387
00:20:53,860 --> 00:20:57,750
Around 1945,
after the Second World War finished,
388
00:20:57,780 --> 00:21:00,910
we have had shortage of getting
milk and cream from the West...
389
00:21:00,940 --> 00:21:04,270
Yeah. ..to make coffee
to sell inside the country,
390
00:21:04,300 --> 00:21:07,710
so one chef,
he was thinking of, you know,
391
00:21:07,740 --> 00:21:10,990
try to make something
to replace the cream,
392
00:21:11,020 --> 00:21:13,430
and he using the egg yolk,
393
00:21:13,460 --> 00:21:16,030
with some condensed milk,
some sugar,
394
00:21:16,060 --> 00:21:20,270
a few drops of vodka,
and beat them up to make cream.
395
00:21:20,300 --> 00:21:22,830
Vodka?
Yeah!
396
00:21:22,860 --> 00:21:25,190
The vodka will kill
the smell of the egg.
397
00:21:25,220 --> 00:21:26,750
THEY CHUCKLE
398
00:21:26,780 --> 00:21:30,270
Do you really like it?
I really like it a lot.
399
00:21:30,300 --> 00:21:32,390
All right, OK.
But I love custard. OK.
400
00:21:39,060 --> 00:21:42,110
You see, that's why you have to
get out when you come to a new city
401
00:21:42,140 --> 00:21:45,670
and explore, because
behind the unassuming doors
402
00:21:45,700 --> 00:21:49,990
are the best coffees and some of
the best food you'll ever taste.
403
00:21:57,420 --> 00:22:00,190
'Hanoi is such
a wonderfully busy city,
404
00:22:00,220 --> 00:22:03,190
'and there's something to see
round every corner.'
405
00:22:10,780 --> 00:22:13,550
I love coming to markets
when I come to a new place,
406
00:22:13,580 --> 00:22:14,630
cos it's so colourful
407
00:22:14,660 --> 00:22:16,910
and you see all kinds of stuff
you've never seen before,
408
00:22:16,940 --> 00:22:19,790
like fruits like this -
I've got no idea what that is.
409
00:22:19,820 --> 00:22:22,110
But there are some things
that I do know
410
00:22:22,140 --> 00:22:23,950
that are worth having a look at,
so...
411
00:22:23,980 --> 00:22:26,150
here you go,
look at this, look at this.
412
00:22:26,180 --> 00:22:27,750
Thank you very much.
413
00:22:27,780 --> 00:22:30,510
Doesn't this look like something
that's invented in a movie,
414
00:22:30,540 --> 00:22:33,190
like a dragon's egg?
It is, in fact, dragon fruit.
415
00:22:33,220 --> 00:22:35,150
Oh, thank you very much.
416
00:22:35,180 --> 00:22:38,230
It's a really interesting fruit.
Look at the inside of it!
417
00:22:38,260 --> 00:22:40,150
Isn't that amazing?
And I've gotta tell you,
418
00:22:40,180 --> 00:22:42,110
the fruit...
419
00:22:43,740 --> 00:22:45,910
...is delicious, like...
420
00:22:45,940 --> 00:22:49,030
perfumed and sweet and juicy. I'll
come back and pay you in a minute.
421
00:22:49,060 --> 00:22:50,630
HORN HOOTS
422
00:22:53,580 --> 00:22:54,990
Look at this.
423
00:22:55,020 --> 00:22:58,630
They prepare it for you,
and apparently,
424
00:22:58,660 --> 00:23:00,790
you just eat it like this.
425
00:23:03,580 --> 00:23:06,550
Yeah, I'm not coming back for any
of that, it's like a sour pear.
426
00:23:06,580 --> 00:23:08,150
It's cau, it's called.
427
00:23:08,180 --> 00:23:10,070
That's not very nice at all,
428
00:23:10,100 --> 00:23:11,750
but it's always worth
trying these things.
429
00:23:13,860 --> 00:23:17,070
These are ramboutans,
which are like lychees.
430
00:23:17,100 --> 00:23:19,390
Have you ever had lychees
from Chinese restaurants?
431
00:23:19,420 --> 00:23:21,990
There you go, like that.
432
00:23:22,020 --> 00:23:26,190
Really perfumed,
almost passion fruit-y flavour.
433
00:23:27,500 --> 00:23:28,830
Thank you very much.
434
00:23:32,100 --> 00:23:35,670
'Next on my journey through Vietnam,
a railway that runs
435
00:23:35,700 --> 00:23:39,470
'right down a street and has become
an accidental tourist attraction.'
436
00:23:40,820 --> 00:23:42,590
Help me, it's a monster!
437
00:23:42,620 --> 00:23:46,670
'And I travel across one of the most
famous bridges in Vietnam.'
438
00:23:46,700 --> 00:23:49,710
It was bombed
no fewer than ten times.
439
00:23:49,740 --> 00:23:51,830
It does rock a bit,
and it is a bit wibbly.
440
00:24:01,820 --> 00:24:03,710
'I'm halfway through my journey
441
00:24:03,740 --> 00:24:06,710
'on one of Vietnam's
oldest railway lines.
442
00:24:06,740 --> 00:24:09,630
'It runs straight through Hanoi,
and one stretch of track
443
00:24:09,660 --> 00:24:14,630
'right in the centre of the city
has taken on a life of its own.'
444
00:24:14,660 --> 00:24:17,550
This, you won't be
surprised to learn, is Train Street.
445
00:24:17,580 --> 00:24:18,670
And yes, that is
446
00:24:18,700 --> 00:24:21,750
a railway line running
straight through the middle of it.
447
00:24:21,780 --> 00:24:24,270
The railway was built by the French
a hundred years ago,
448
00:24:24,300 --> 00:24:26,870
and the accommodation either side
was full of railway workers.
449
00:24:26,900 --> 00:24:28,710
And nobody sort of noticed it
for a long time,
450
00:24:28,740 --> 00:24:31,710
and then a local Vietnamese woman
thought, if I put a cafe here,
451
00:24:31,740 --> 00:24:35,190
people can see the train
run so close to these buildings.
452
00:24:35,220 --> 00:24:38,910
In no time at all, tourists
were piling in here to have a look,
453
00:24:38,940 --> 00:24:41,950
and it became one of the top ten
attractions in the whole of Vietnam.
454
00:24:41,980 --> 00:24:45,070
The government have actually
tried to close this down twice
455
00:24:45,100 --> 00:24:48,190
and stop people coming in,
because people are taking selfies
456
00:24:48,220 --> 00:24:49,870
and getting in the way of the train,
457
00:24:49,900 --> 00:24:52,110
and holding up the train,
on occasion.
458
00:24:52,140 --> 00:24:55,630
Despite the government's efforts to
stop people, they're still coming.
459
00:24:55,660 --> 00:24:58,270
They still walk down the railway
line, they still take selfies.
460
00:24:58,300 --> 00:25:01,670
But this is the safe place
to watch it, up here on a balcony.
461
00:25:01,700 --> 00:25:04,630
You can have a cup of coffee
or a beer here, too.
462
00:25:04,660 --> 00:25:09,190
'The train's due in a few minutes,
which is why people are gathering.
463
00:25:14,060 --> 00:25:15,390
'It's so narrow,
464
00:25:15,420 --> 00:25:18,990
'the sound of the approaching train
is echoing off the walls.'
465
00:25:24,300 --> 00:25:26,430
And here it is.
466
00:25:26,460 --> 00:25:28,430
BLARING HORN
467
00:25:30,700 --> 00:25:33,430
Help, it's a monster!
468
00:25:35,660 --> 00:25:36,790
WOW!
469
00:25:36,820 --> 00:25:38,190
Look how close it is!
470
00:25:41,580 --> 00:25:43,230
I mean, it's inches away from us.
471
00:25:47,460 --> 00:25:50,310
HE LAUGHS
472
00:25:52,140 --> 00:25:54,270
'I've never seen anything like it.
473
00:25:56,140 --> 00:25:58,350
'Across Hanoi,
there's a special place
474
00:25:58,380 --> 00:26:00,350
'I want to visit before I leave.
475
00:26:06,340 --> 00:26:11,350
'Many visitors to this country still
associate it with the Vietnam War,
476
00:26:11,380 --> 00:26:14,990
'fought between communist
North Vietnam, backed by China,
477
00:26:15,020 --> 00:26:18,870
'and the anti-Communist
South Vietnam, backed by the USA.
478
00:26:18,900 --> 00:26:22,310
'Although it ended
almost 50 years ago,
479
00:26:22,340 --> 00:26:26,070
'the impact of chemicals used
in the war is still felt today.
480
00:26:29,740 --> 00:26:33,230
'Just off this Hanoi street
is a place providing help and hope.
481
00:26:33,260 --> 00:26:36,550
'It was set up by
an American veteran, George Mizo.
482
00:26:36,580 --> 00:26:39,310
'He wanted to set aside
the old enmities
483
00:26:39,340 --> 00:26:42,750
'and reach out
from the United States to Vietnam.
484
00:26:42,780 --> 00:26:45,350
'Helping children and veterans
alike,
485
00:26:45,380 --> 00:26:48,670
'this place is called
Friendship Village.'
486
00:26:48,700 --> 00:26:50,270
Xin chao.
487
00:26:50,300 --> 00:26:51,710
Km chao.
488
00:26:51,740 --> 00:26:53,750
How are you? Nice to meet you all.
489
00:26:53,780 --> 00:26:56,430
'First, I'm meeting
veterans staying here.'
490
00:26:56,460 --> 00:27:00,230
How does the Village help you?
Have you made friends here?
491
00:27:05,820 --> 00:27:09,190
I don't need a translation,
I can see the smiles on your faces!
492
00:27:10,660 --> 00:27:13,190
What are your memories of that time?
493
00:27:42,260 --> 00:27:44,870
'Agent Orange was a chemical
sprayed by the Americans
494
00:27:44,900 --> 00:27:47,670
'to kill vegetation
during the conflict,
495
00:27:47,700 --> 00:27:50,830
'but it had a devastating effect
on people, too.
496
00:28:09,100 --> 00:28:13,590
'That's why the Village also houses
up to 120 children
497
00:28:13,620 --> 00:28:17,910
'believed to be living
with the effects of Agent Orange.
498
00:28:17,940 --> 00:28:21,870
'Deputy director
Nguyen Thang Long can tell me more.'
499
00:28:24,500 --> 00:28:27,830
Why are children now being born
with difficulties
500
00:28:27,860 --> 00:28:29,670
because of Agent Orange?
501
00:28:55,140 --> 00:28:56,870
It's amazing, like...
502
00:28:56,900 --> 00:29:00,590
So a chemical dropped during the war
to kill crops
503
00:29:00,620 --> 00:29:03,390
has been taken into the bodies
504
00:29:03,420 --> 00:29:05,070
of people who were fighting
at the time,
505
00:29:05,100 --> 00:29:07,270
and that is going on
generation after generation,
506
00:29:07,300 --> 00:29:11,150
and that's why we see
children with disabilities now.
507
00:29:11,180 --> 00:29:13,190
That's just awful.
508
00:29:13,220 --> 00:29:14,390
Is it...
509
00:29:14,420 --> 00:29:16,950
It's called a friendship village,
510
00:29:16,980 --> 00:29:22,310
and I can see that friendship for
the children and for the veterans
511
00:29:22,340 --> 00:29:25,030
is at the heart of what you do.
512
00:29:34,540 --> 00:29:37,590
Yeah. Yeah,
wouldn't that be a great thing?
513
00:29:41,580 --> 00:29:44,350
'Now I want to meet
some of those children
514
00:29:44,380 --> 00:29:48,590
'learning vocational activities
to prepare them
515
00:29:48,620 --> 00:29:51,230
'to earn their own livings
later on.'
516
00:29:54,460 --> 00:29:56,870
THEY GREET
EACH OTHER
517
00:29:56,900 --> 00:29:59,470
Wow, it's a proper production line
going on here.
518
00:29:59,500 --> 00:30:03,390
Can I learn to do this as well?
Yes, you can.
519
00:30:03,420 --> 00:30:05,910
'These children
are making paper flowers,
520
00:30:05,940 --> 00:30:09,910
'sold widely in Vietnam
as part of religious observances.
521
00:30:09,940 --> 00:30:13,470
'The intricate blooms
help raise funds for the village.'
522
00:30:13,500 --> 00:30:15,190
"Make the shape of a leaf."
523
00:30:15,220 --> 00:30:18,110
'The craft required
helps their motor skills
524
00:30:18,140 --> 00:30:20,910
'and boosts their confidence.'
525
00:30:20,940 --> 00:30:22,670
Do you like doing this?
526
00:30:22,700 --> 00:30:24,790
What do you like about it?
527
00:30:29,180 --> 00:30:31,470
Well, easy for you to make,
not easy for me. Look at that!
528
00:30:31,500 --> 00:30:32,830
I've made a right mess of that one!
529
00:30:34,660 --> 00:30:36,790
A little bit down there.
530
00:30:36,820 --> 00:30:38,470
And a lot of patience.
531
00:30:38,500 --> 00:30:40,550
But your fingers...
532
00:30:40,580 --> 00:30:43,910
Look at the difference in fingers.
I have fingers like big sausages!
533
00:30:43,940 --> 00:30:46,310
GIGGLING
534
00:30:46,340 --> 00:30:49,310
What do you like
about making these flowers?
535
00:31:02,260 --> 00:31:03,350
Aah!
536
00:31:08,980 --> 00:31:11,150
'What a marvellous place this is,
537
00:31:11,180 --> 00:31:13,350
'and it all came about
because one man thought back
538
00:31:13,380 --> 00:31:16,190
'about his time fighting in Vietnam
539
00:31:16,220 --> 00:31:18,310
'and wanted to leave
a different legacy.'
540
00:31:19,500 --> 00:31:21,870
CHEERING
541
00:31:23,580 --> 00:31:25,750
Bye-bye. Bye-bye.
542
00:31:25,780 --> 00:31:28,310
THEY BOTH CHUCKLE
543
00:31:29,620 --> 00:31:33,350
'I'll remember the veterans and the
flower girl for the rest of my life.
544
00:31:33,380 --> 00:31:36,030
'But now, I've got to head back
to the heart of Hanoi.
545
00:31:36,060 --> 00:31:37,150
'I've got a train to catch.'
546
00:31:39,940 --> 00:31:41,550
I'm stood at the end
of the platform,
547
00:31:41,580 --> 00:31:43,510
which is the start
of the Long Bien Bridge.
548
00:31:43,540 --> 00:31:46,070
This is one of the longest
of its kind anywhere in the world.
549
00:31:46,100 --> 00:31:48,830
'The bridge is 1.5 miles long,
550
00:31:48,860 --> 00:31:51,790
'and it's what's known as
a cantilever truss bridge.
551
00:31:51,820 --> 00:31:54,710
'Look at it!
it just goes on and on forever.
552
00:31:54,740 --> 00:31:58,270
'Construction was completed in 1903,
and over the decades,
553
00:31:58,300 --> 00:32:01,070
'it's become so much more
than just a bridge.
554
00:32:01,100 --> 00:32:04,430
'And it will carry me onto
the second half of my journey.
555
00:32:04,460 --> 00:32:07,150
'Leaving Hanoi, it'll take me
just under three hours
556
00:32:07,180 --> 00:32:10,470
'to travel 63 miles
to the port of Haiphong
557
00:32:10,500 --> 00:32:12,910
'and the world-famous Ha Long Bay.'
558
00:32:17,140 --> 00:32:18,750
HORN BLARES
559
00:32:26,500 --> 00:32:29,830
This train is huge!
About 20 carriages.
560
00:32:32,300 --> 00:32:35,630
I've just got time to check out
what's going to be pulling us.
561
00:32:35,660 --> 00:32:37,270
Monster of an engine, isn't it?
562
00:32:37,300 --> 00:32:39,630
It's obviously got some age on it.
A bit rusty.
563
00:32:39,660 --> 00:32:42,870
'This engine came from Yugoslavia
in the '80s,
564
00:32:42,900 --> 00:32:46,350
'a gift from one communist state
to another.
565
00:32:47,580 --> 00:32:48,710
'I'd better get on.
566
00:32:48,740 --> 00:32:51,990
'I'm meeting travel writer
and railway historian Tim Doling.
567
00:32:52,020 --> 00:32:54,350
'He's lived here for almost 25 years
568
00:32:54,380 --> 00:32:56,830
'and can tell me more
about the bridge and the railway.'
569
00:32:56,860 --> 00:32:58,830
Ah!
570
00:32:58,860 --> 00:33:00,470
Tim Doling.
571
00:33:00,500 --> 00:33:02,670
Hello, Nick, nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
572
00:33:04,380 --> 00:33:06,390
Listen, I'm gonna get
straight into this bridge
573
00:33:06,420 --> 00:33:08,790
we're about to cross,
cos we cross it very soon, don't we,
574
00:33:08,820 --> 00:33:10,310
out of the station?
just starting.
575
00:33:10,340 --> 00:33:11,470
What makes it so special?
576
00:33:11,500 --> 00:33:13,510
Well, it was opened in 1902,
577
00:33:13,540 --> 00:33:17,950
and it was very much a symbol of
French colonial power in Indochina.
578
00:33:17,980 --> 00:33:19,710
But then, after the Vietnam War,
579
00:33:19,740 --> 00:33:22,590
the whole perception
of the big bridge began to change.
580
00:33:22,620 --> 00:33:24,550
It was bombed
no fewer than ten times,
581
00:33:24,580 --> 00:33:27,310
and to keep the trains running
during this period,
582
00:33:27,340 --> 00:33:30,110
they actually set up
a kind of pontoon bridge
583
00:33:30,140 --> 00:33:32,470
a few miles down the river
when the bridge was out.
584
00:33:32,500 --> 00:33:34,030
The slogan of the time was,
585
00:33:34,060 --> 00:33:36,430
"Run trains with no bridge
over the river."
586
00:33:38,700 --> 00:33:41,270
It went from being
a symbol of colonial power
587
00:33:41,300 --> 00:33:45,110
to being a symbol
of resistance against oppressors.
588
00:33:45,140 --> 00:33:47,590
That's interesting. It does rock
a bit, and it is a bit wibbly.
589
00:33:47,620 --> 00:33:49,830
Not the straightest bridge
in the world any more, is it?
590
00:33:49,860 --> 00:33:55,150
There's a book which describes
how its misshapen and broken spans
591
00:33:55,180 --> 00:33:57,990
are symbolic of that kind
of indomitable spirit
592
00:33:58,020 --> 00:34:01,350
of the Hanoi people,
resisting foreign invasions.
593
00:34:01,380 --> 00:34:04,150
What is it about
these railways in Vietnam
594
00:34:04,180 --> 00:34:05,630
that have fascinated you so much
595
00:34:05,660 --> 00:34:07,550
that you dedicated so much time
to it?
596
00:34:07,580 --> 00:34:09,190
It was a massive undertaking.
597
00:34:09,220 --> 00:34:11,110
If you look at
the social value of it,
598
00:34:11,140 --> 00:34:14,350
I mean, it encouraged
unprecedented movement of people -
599
00:34:14,380 --> 00:34:18,070
you have whole urban centres
being set up around the railway.
600
00:34:18,100 --> 00:34:19,430
All along the various lines.
601
00:34:19,460 --> 00:34:21,950
Ancl it also, in some ways,
602
00:34:21,980 --> 00:34:23,710
contributed to
a growth of nationhood,
603
00:34:23,740 --> 00:34:26,950
because people, for the first time,
given the state of the roads,
604
00:34:26,980 --> 00:34:28,790
could actually
travel around the country
605
00:34:28,820 --> 00:34:30,950
and see the length and breadth
of their nation.
606
00:34:30,980 --> 00:34:32,550
Something I've never thought about.
607
00:34:32,580 --> 00:34:35,190
If you can't travel easily
to the other end of your country,
608
00:34:35,220 --> 00:34:38,030
how can you have a sense of
the country you live in? Absolutely.
609
00:34:40,620 --> 00:34:42,670
HORN BLARES
610
00:34:42,700 --> 00:34:45,190
'This stretch of my journey
will take me through an area
611
00:34:45,220 --> 00:34:49,430
'that is one of Vietnam's
main economic powerhouses.
612
00:34:49,460 --> 00:34:52,710
'But before that, there's a
surprising sight at the next stop.'
613
00:34:55,220 --> 00:34:57,390
Come and have a look at this!
614
00:34:59,180 --> 00:35:01,070
That's not something
you see every day.
615
00:35:01,100 --> 00:35:03,110
You can load your moped on a train,
616
00:35:03,140 --> 00:35:06,590
so you don't have to do
the long distances between towns.
617
00:35:06,620 --> 00:35:09,830
A moped's not the easiest transport
to go long distance on,
618
00:35:09,860 --> 00:35:13,110
but we know how important mopeds are
in this part of the world.
619
00:35:15,260 --> 00:35:17,550
I've got to tell you,
that's not easy to do.
620
00:35:17,580 --> 00:35:19,790
I guarantee you,
if you tried this at home...
621
00:35:22,380 --> 00:35:25,350
...nine times out of ten, you'd
end up dumping it on the floor.
622
00:35:29,020 --> 00:35:30,910
Wow, very impressive!
623
00:35:30,940 --> 00:35:34,030
Oh, running out of scooters,
so I'd better get back on the train.
624
00:35:38,540 --> 00:35:40,430
'On the last stretch of my journey,
625
00:35:40,460 --> 00:35:43,110
'I discover just how far
Vietnam's come...'
626
00:35:43,140 --> 00:35:46,150
It's an extraordinary thing to see.
It feels like a bit of the future,
627
00:35:46,180 --> 00:35:47,750
and very, very high-tech.
628
00:35:47,780 --> 00:35:50,870
'..And find paradise
at the end of the line.'
629
00:35:50,900 --> 00:35:52,870
Very beautiful, don't you think?
630
00:35:52,900 --> 00:35:55,710
Kind of spooky,
almost sort of prehistoric.
631
00:35:55,740 --> 00:35:58,030
Looks like Godzilla
lay down a thousand years ago
632
00:35:58,060 --> 00:35:59,630
and trees have grown all over him.
633
00:36:08,340 --> 00:36:12,030
'I'm on the final part of my journey
across northern Vietnam.
634
00:36:15,180 --> 00:36:17,350
'This stretch of the line
passes through
635
00:36:17,380 --> 00:36:20,670
'one of the more important areas
for Vietnam's economy.'
636
00:36:22,340 --> 00:36:26,310
Vietnam was considered
one of the lowest-income countries
637
00:36:26,340 --> 00:36:29,670
in the world.
Now it's a middle-income nation,
638
00:36:29,700 --> 00:36:34,110
and they have aspirations
to be high-income earners by 2045.
639
00:36:34,140 --> 00:36:36,350
It's all balanced around
their development.
640
00:36:36,380 --> 00:36:39,630
This part of the country
is their high-tech area,
641
00:36:39,660 --> 00:36:44,070
and they're doing a lot
in electronics, in IT,
642
00:36:44,100 --> 00:36:46,190
it's a country
that's really going somewhere.
643
00:36:49,940 --> 00:36:52,110
'The next stop
gives me a chance to see
644
00:36:52,140 --> 00:36:54,230
'just how fast Vietnam is changing.
645
00:36:56,540 --> 00:37:00,110
'Vingroup is the country's
largest private corporation,
646
00:37:00,140 --> 00:37:02,030
'set up by Pham Nhat Vuong,
647
00:37:02,060 --> 00:37:05,110
'a billionaire,
and Vietnam's richest man.
648
00:37:05,140 --> 00:37:09,590
'In 2017, they formed VinFast,
a car company.
649
00:37:09,620 --> 00:37:13,270
'Now they're taking on the big boys
in the electric car business.
650
00:37:14,900 --> 00:37:18,390
'To find out more, I'm meeting
Deputy CEO Michael johns on,
651
00:37:18,420 --> 00:37:20,990
'bringing decades
of American auto experience
652
00:37:21,020 --> 00:37:23,270
'to the other side of the world.'
653
00:37:23,300 --> 00:37:25,590
So, as I'm travelling
across Vietnam,
654
00:37:25,620 --> 00:37:27,750
I'm seeing that
it's a country on the move.
655
00:37:27,780 --> 00:37:29,510
How do you think VinFast
656
00:37:29,540 --> 00:37:32,390
is changing the international
profile of Vietnam?
657
00:37:32,420 --> 00:37:34,910
It's really to try
to provide a fresh perspective
658
00:37:34,940 --> 00:37:38,310
of the really, truly dedicated,
dynamic, resourceful
659
00:37:38,340 --> 00:37:39,990
and resilient people of Vietnam.
660
00:37:40,020 --> 00:37:42,190
As you may know, Vietnam is one
661
00:37:42,220 --> 00:37:44,630
of the fastest-growing economies
in the world.
662
00:37:46,180 --> 00:37:48,830
One of the thing that fascinates me
when you have a country
663
00:37:48,860 --> 00:37:51,470
developing at such speed is,
do you have the workforce
664
00:37:51,500 --> 00:37:54,110
with the level of education you need
to do these high-tech jobs?
665
00:37:54,140 --> 00:37:56,510
How are you getting that to work?
666
00:37:56,540 --> 00:37:59,070
What Vingroup,
the parent of VinFast, has invested,
667
00:37:59,100 --> 00:38:03,390
not only in elementary schools,
but also provided a VinUniversity.
668
00:38:03,420 --> 00:38:06,830
Ancl we do immense training
right here on the VinFast campus.
669
00:38:06,860 --> 00:38:09,670
That's fantastic. Because it means
you're taking the workforce
670
00:38:09,700 --> 00:38:12,710
and the population with you
on this amazing journey. Exactly.
671
00:38:12,740 --> 00:38:15,430
'In November 2022, VinFast exported
672
00:38:15,460 --> 00:38:18,630
'their first electric cars
to the USA.
673
00:38:18,660 --> 00:38:21,790
'Loaded at Haiphong
and bound for New York.'
674
00:38:21,820 --> 00:38:24,070
It was such a historic event
that we were very fortunate
675
00:38:24,100 --> 00:38:26,990
to welcome the Prime Minister here
to participate in the event.
676
00:38:27,020 --> 00:38:28,670
So it was really quite historic.
677
00:38:28,700 --> 00:38:30,030
That tells a story, doesn't it,
678
00:38:30,060 --> 00:38:31,990
about how important it is
to the country and this
679
00:38:32,020 --> 00:38:34,030
extraordinary emerging market
we see in Vietnam?
680
00:38:34,060 --> 00:38:36,350
Not only was
the Vietnamese Prime Minister there,
681
00:38:36,380 --> 00:38:38,910
but we also had the US ambassador
682
00:38:38,940 --> 00:38:41,510
really giving a speech and
showing the importance of the event.
683
00:38:43,980 --> 00:38:47,670
'The car that's making all the fuss?
A mid-range hatchback.'
684
00:38:51,620 --> 00:38:52,950
So, there it is, the VF8.
685
00:38:52,980 --> 00:38:56,070
One thing left for me to do -
drive it and see what it's like.
686
00:38:58,980 --> 00:39:02,150
'So I'm taking it out
on the company test track.'
687
00:39:05,380 --> 00:39:06,990
There we go.
688
00:39:07,020 --> 00:39:09,070
Three, two, one, launch.
689
00:39:09,100 --> 00:39:11,670
CHUCKLES
It pushes me back in the seat.
690
00:39:14,220 --> 00:39:16,150
And 50, 60...
691
00:39:16,180 --> 00:39:19,230
70. It is very impressive.
692
00:39:21,460 --> 00:39:24,910
'This car can hit 0 to 60
in 5.3 seconds,
693
00:39:24,940 --> 00:39:27,590
'and has a range
of around 300 miles.'
694
00:39:29,540 --> 00:39:30,710
Yep.
695
00:39:30,740 --> 00:39:33,870
Putting it through its paces.
Very sure-footed.
696
00:39:33,900 --> 00:39:35,790
Actually really enjoys itself
around corners.
697
00:39:38,460 --> 00:39:40,070
It's just an enormous amount of fun.
698
00:39:45,900 --> 00:39:49,550
And this...
is the future for Vietnam.
699
00:39:49,580 --> 00:39:52,430
High-tech electric vehicles.
700
00:39:52,460 --> 00:39:54,630
No wonder the country's
on the up and up.
701
00:40:08,020 --> 00:40:10,830
'Back at the station,
it's just a few miles now
702
00:40:10,860 --> 00:40:12,230
'to the end of the line.'
703
00:40:20,860 --> 00:40:23,350
So, we're just pulling into
Haiphong.
704
00:40:23,380 --> 00:40:25,670
Crossing the river.
705
00:40:25,700 --> 00:40:27,550
Station ahead.
706
00:40:29,460 --> 00:40:31,990
'The entire journey
from the Chinese border
707
00:40:32,020 --> 00:40:36,430
'takes almost 11 hours,
on 247 miles of track.
708
00:40:38,740 --> 00:40:41,390
'And finally, I've arrived.'
709
00:40:47,980 --> 00:40:50,110
Well, that's the end
of the railway journey,
710
00:40:50,140 --> 00:40:52,110
but not the end of my trip,
711
00:40:52,140 --> 00:40:54,350
because the train
has brought me to the coast,
712
00:40:54,380 --> 00:40:55,670
and it's very beautiful here.
713
00:40:55,700 --> 00:40:57,510
But of course,
you can't see it in the dark,
714
00:40:57,540 --> 00:40:59,190
so I'll see you in the morning
for a bit more.
715
00:41:11,020 --> 00:41:13,070
'Next morning, I'm up early
716
00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:15,870
'for a bucket list trip
across the water.'
717
00:41:15,900 --> 00:41:19,110
This is Ha Long Bay.
718
00:41:19,140 --> 00:41:21,270
It's become
a huge tourist attraction.
719
00:41:21,300 --> 00:41:22,910
Well, look at it. You can see why.
720
00:41:25,620 --> 00:41:29,310
'These towers are what's known as
a karst landscape,
721
00:41:29,340 --> 00:41:32,190
'formed by the way
the limestone is eroded by water.
722
00:41:34,300 --> 00:41:36,470
'They're famous the world over,
723
00:41:36,500 --> 00:41:39,190
'drawing ten million visitors
here a year.'
724
00:41:39,220 --> 00:41:42,430
Very beautiful, don't you think?
725
00:41:42,460 --> 00:41:45,430
Kind of spooky,
almost sort of prehistoric.
726
00:41:46,500 --> 00:41:47,750
Kind of expect dinosaurs
727
00:41:47,780 --> 00:41:49,750
to come creeping out of the woods,
don't you?
728
00:41:49,780 --> 00:41:50,950
Beautiful.
729
00:41:53,820 --> 00:41:57,270
'And the train had a lot to do with
bringing that tourism here,
730
00:41:57,300 --> 00:42:00,270
'opening up the opportunities
for people to travel.'
731
00:42:02,620 --> 00:42:05,590
The train that brought me here was
built by the French for industry,
732
00:42:05,620 --> 00:42:08,870
but, in actual fact,
was used more and more by the locals
733
00:42:08,900 --> 00:42:11,310
to go from town to town
and onto the coast
734
00:42:11,340 --> 00:42:14,710
and places like this, and so...
a tourist industry started.
735
00:42:14,740 --> 00:42:17,150
And now, you, me and anybody
from around the world
736
00:42:17,180 --> 00:42:19,870
can come to places like this
and enjoy it,
737
00:42:19,900 --> 00:42:23,030
and it is truly spectacular
and beautiful.
738
00:42:24,580 --> 00:42:27,230
'It just shows the impact
railways can have.
739
00:42:29,500 --> 00:42:31,590
'I came here
not knowing what to expect.'
740
00:42:32,660 --> 00:42:35,390
SHOUTS: Good morning, Hanoi!
741
00:42:38,380 --> 00:42:42,990
'What I found is a country
healing the wounds of its past,
742
00:42:43,020 --> 00:42:45,230
'with a present packed with life...
743
00:42:45,260 --> 00:42:46,590
HORN BLARES
744
00:42:46,620 --> 00:42:48,870
That really is a monster!
745
00:42:50,540 --> 00:42:52,750
'..And looking firmly
to the future.'
746
00:42:54,260 --> 00:42:56,350
It's just an enormous amount of fun!
747
00:43:02,020 --> 00:43:04,510
You know,
Vietnam is full of surprises.
748
00:43:04,540 --> 00:43:06,990
Yes, there's amazing food,
and yes, there's amazing views,
749
00:43:07,020 --> 00:43:10,670
but it's a country on the up and up.
750
00:43:12,060 --> 00:43:13,550
Come and see it yourself if you can.
57036
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