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NICK KNOWLES: 'I'm travelling
the world by train
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'on a series
of incredible journeys.'
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Right on cue.
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00:00:12,020 --> 00:00:14,190
'There'll be spectacular scenery...'
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It's absolutely stunning.
I genuinely can't believe I'm here.
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00:00:17,980 --> 00:00:18,990
Somebody pinch me.
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00:00:19,020 --> 00:00:21,310
'..|'ll meet amazing people...'
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I brought some rope and some fruit.
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'..Who push me to my limits
in extraordinary places...'
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Oh!
WOMAN LAUGHS
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'..and show me astonishing
sights...'
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00:00:30,620 --> 00:00:32,910
Oh-ho-ho!
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00:00:32,940 --> 00:00:36,150
Oh, my word. Look at that.
I'm holding a piece of real artwork.
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00:00:37,580 --> 00:00:39,510
That's ridiculously good.
15
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I'll discover incredible feats
of engineering...
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TRAIN HORN WHISTLES
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I have a feeling
this might be another switchback.
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00:00:45,700 --> 00:00:47,550
'..And I'll go beyond
the tourist trail
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'to find out what life's like
along the track.'
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00:00:50,900 --> 00:00:52,590
I'm very rarely stuck for words,
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00:00:52,620 --> 00:00:55,070
but this is one of the most
gobsmacking places I've ever been.
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Skal, everyone.
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00:00:56,700 --> 00:00:59,790
'These are my amazing
railway adventures.'
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So sit back, put your feet up,
and enjoy the ride. All aboard!
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00:01:04,740 --> 00:01:06,670
This is just so much fun!
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Today, I'm in Norway,
with its fishing, its fjords
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and its friluftsliv,
which is love of the great outdoors.
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'I'll be travelling
on Norway's longest railway line...'
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TRAIN HORN WHISTLES
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'..to explore
the extraordinary landscape...'
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Oh-ho-ho!
What a fantastic view this is!
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'..I earn about
the country's forgotten history
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'under Nazi rule...'
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Think about this treatment.
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00:01:59,100 --> 00:02:03,550
The shoes was broken.
Everything was terrible for them.
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00:02:03,580 --> 00:02:06,790
'..Experience the different ways
of life...'
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It's a reindeer.
Put in the coffee if you want.
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Put it in the coffee?
Yeah, yeah.
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00:02:11,380 --> 00:02:14,950
'..And fully embrace
the Norwegian outdoors.'
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I'm swimming!
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I'm under the water! It's horrible!
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THEY CHEER
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'My journey starts here
in the historic port of Trondheim,
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'once the Viking capital
of the country.'
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CHURCH BELLS RING
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'Norwegians are famed
for their seafaring roots,
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'and standing proud
is one of the most renowned
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'Norse Viking explorers.'
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This guy's very important.
His name is Leif Eriksson.
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He's considered
to be the first person
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00:03:00,340 --> 00:03:05,790
to set foot in North America,
500 years before Columbus!
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I've got a bit of Norwegian in me,
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I know cos
I've done the genetic test,
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and I can feel my inner-Viking
coming out.
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'And like the great explorers before
me, I'm ready to discover Norway.
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'I'm catching the Arctic Express
on the Nordland Line.
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'It'll take me ten hours
through 450 miles of epic scenery,
58
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'as we cross into the Arctic Circle
to Bodo.'
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Here we go.
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NORWEGIAN ANNOUNCEMENT
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The sound of Norwegian, listen.
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ANNOUNCEMENT CONTINUES
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It's like a sing-song language,
isn't it?
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Look at this! I've never seen
anything like this on a train.
65
00:04:10,500 --> 00:04:12,110
It's a kids' play area.
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00:04:14,500 --> 00:04:17,430
Only in Norway would they
think of that. What a great idea!
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Brilliant.
CH UCKLES
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00:04:21,900 --> 00:04:25,910
'As we wind through
the lush landscape of Trondelag,
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'the first place I'm visiting
is just half an hour away.'
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00:04:33,100 --> 00:04:35,910
The thing you need to know about
Norway is that it's very craggy.
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The coastline and the fjords
creep right into the country.
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As a result, if you're gonna
build a train line...
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This one, the Nord Line,
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00:04:42,500 --> 00:04:48,550
it needs 293 bridges
and 154 tunnels!
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It's an amazing feat of engineering.
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00:04:56,020 --> 00:04:58,750
Here comes a tunnel now.
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00:05:04,860 --> 00:05:07,470
You know the expression "the light
at the end of the tunnel"?
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It normally means something good.
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I've gotta tell you, the light
at the end of this tunnel...
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takes me straight to Hell.
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Literally.
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'Like many a tourist before me,
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'I'm making a quick visit
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'to one of the top selfie spots
in the area.'
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00:05:27,220 --> 00:05:28,870
Thank you.
86
00:05:39,540 --> 00:05:42,550
There you go. Told you
there was a place called Hell.
87
00:05:42,580 --> 00:05:45,230
Just get the obligatory selfie.
88
00:05:45,260 --> 00:05:48,910
Comes from the old Norse,
meaning "cliff overhang" or "cave".
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00:05:48,940 --> 00:05:52,070
In modern Norwegian, it means lucky.
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00:05:52,100 --> 00:05:55,110
Who'd have thought
that Hell was cold and wet,
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00:05:55,140 --> 00:05:58,310
and if you wait around long enough,
it does actually freeze over?
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00:06:00,420 --> 00:06:02,190
Now, you won't be surprised
to find out
93
00:06:02,220 --> 00:06:03,950
that the locals have cottoned on
to the fact
94
00:06:03,980 --> 00:06:05,630
that this is
quite a tourist attraction.
95
00:06:05,660 --> 00:06:07,030
And this little shed here
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was the "goods expediting"
or "goods handling".
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00:06:10,660 --> 00:06:12,550
This is the old-fashioned
way of spelling it.
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God's expedition to Hell.
HE LAUGHS
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00:06:21,460 --> 00:06:25,070
'Well, that was a fun diversion.
I couldn't resist.
100
00:06:25,100 --> 00:06:26,870
'Onwards to the next stop.'
101
00:06:34,780 --> 00:06:38,030
Next place we're visiting
on this line is Grong,
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one of the best places
to go salmon fishing,
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and I love a bit of fishing.
104
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So, this is Grong,
105
00:06:47,420 --> 00:06:50,830
and I actually feel I'm more out
in the countryside Norway now.
106
00:06:50,860 --> 00:06:53,070
Sort of mountains in the background,
107
00:06:53,100 --> 00:06:56,070
and the river curves away over there
in the distance.
108
00:06:57,500 --> 00:06:58,990
'The River Namsen,
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00:06:59,020 --> 00:07:02,670
'one of Norway's top spots
for fishing since the 1800s,
110
00:07:02,700 --> 00:07:06,710
'when wealthy Brits, having made
their fortunes in the Empire,
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'came here in quest
of the mighty fish.
112
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'Norwegians named them
the salmon lords,
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'and still credit them
for introducing
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'British salmon-fishing techniques
to Norway.'
115
00:07:17,980 --> 00:07:20,430
Now, I've done a bit
of fishing when I was a kid,
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but not salmon,
and it's a very specialist art.
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So I'm gonna meet a guy called
Torgeir who knows more about it
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than I'll ever learn.
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This, by the way, is the Namsen
River, one of the longest in Norway.
120
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140 miles long and known
as the Queen of Salmon Rivers.
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So if I'm ever gonna catch a salmon,
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it's gonna be here
and with this guy.
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Hello! How are you?
Welcome.
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There we go. Thank you.
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OK.
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00:07:54,100 --> 00:07:58,390
'Torgeir is teaching me harling,
a traditional fishing method.'
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So, I take this off...?
Yeah.
128
00:08:00,300 --> 00:08:03,270
...swing it out into the current?
Yeah, put it in water.
129
00:08:03,300 --> 00:08:07,470
OK, and this is... harling fishing?
Yeah.
130
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Er, the British fishing lords
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used to have the name,
and we still use it.
132
00:08:15,620 --> 00:08:20,030
So, is it... Oh, is it... so it's
a British fishing technique? Yes.
133
00:08:20,060 --> 00:08:23,030
'Torgeir tells me
that harling originated
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00:08:23,060 --> 00:08:25,230
'from the River Tay in Scotland
135
00:08:25,260 --> 00:08:28,670
'and involves trailing weighted
lines from a slow-moving boat.'
136
00:08:29,820 --> 00:08:32,430
Now, you're not a rowing
to take us upriver,
137
00:08:32,460 --> 00:08:35,190
you're just moving us backwards
and forwards on the current, right?
138
00:08:35,220 --> 00:08:39,910
Yeah. And this is to make
the lures move around? Mm-hm.
139
00:08:39,940 --> 00:08:43,230
So, I know it,
the water is so, er...
140
00:08:43,260 --> 00:08:45,430
er, drifting fast.
141
00:08:46,700 --> 00:08:50,110
The Namsen is not only
one of the longest rivers in Norway,
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but also one of the most powerful.
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So, Torgeir, how old are you?
Do you mind me asking?
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How old are you?
63.
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00:08:57,140 --> 00:08:59,110
63?!
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And you're rowing
like a 21-year-old.
147
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No, they can't.
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NICK LAUGHS
149
00:09:08,660 --> 00:09:10,110
How big are the salmon in here?
150
00:09:10,140 --> 00:09:12,030
What's the biggest
they've ever got out of here?
151
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I think it's more than 30.
152
00:09:14,340 --> 00:09:16,910
31.5.
Wow!
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That's like a... That's five stone,
that's half of you!
154
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It's big one, really big.
About a third of me.
155
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What's it like
to catch a big salmon?
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They're very difficult
to catch them.
157
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So, you used to say that,
158
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"To fight with a salmon,
it's better than sex."
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NICK LAUGHS
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00:09:38,780 --> 00:09:40,350
"It's better than sex."
161
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'But it's hard work
even getting a fish on the hook.'
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Torgeir, I'm not catching anything.
Is that because I'm a bad fisherman?
163
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No. It's late in the...
in the autumn.
164
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You need to come back in June.
165
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Part of the beauty of fishing
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is actually just being out
on the water
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and looking at beautiful scenery.
168
00:10:02,060 --> 00:10:04,790
'Fishing isn't Torgeir's only job.
169
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'Originally a farmer,
170
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'in the middle of his land
is 200 metres of disused rail track
171
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'and a railway bridge
over the Namsen,
172
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'and this is what he did with it.'
173
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Oh, much warmer in here.
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HE LAUGHS
Isn't this fantastic? Look at this!
175
00:10:23,060 --> 00:10:26,310
It's actually a hotel
in train carriages.
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Look at the views!
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How beautiful is that?
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So, Torgeir came up with this idea.
179
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They closed down the stretch
of line, "What are we gonna do?"
180
00:10:37,340 --> 00:10:41,990
Well, grab a few old carriages that
are hanging around, re-purpose them,
181
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and turn them into a hotel
that people can come to fish
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and they can stay here when they do.
183
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He's actually now doing
more hotelier work
184
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than he is doing farming or fishing.
185
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Beautiful, isn't it?
186
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'It's the end of the season here,
187
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'but throughout the summer, this
place is packed full of fishermen.'
188
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And they've actually used
a sleeper carriage.
189
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Now, my room is 105.
190
00:11:05,860 --> 00:11:09,190
101,102,103,104,
191
00:11:09,220 --> 00:11:11,630
and here I am on 105.
192
00:11:11,660 --> 00:11:13,830
Do you wanna have a look?
Yeah, come on, come on.
193
00:11:13,860 --> 00:11:16,670
Look, down this bottom corner,
little sink.
194
00:11:16,700 --> 00:11:20,550
So, all you need there for a little
bit of a wash, clean your teeth.
195
00:11:20,580 --> 00:11:23,550
Lovely little bed. Bunk beds,
so you get two of you in here.
196
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Amazing view out the window.
197
00:11:25,940 --> 00:11:27,910
And, actually,
just along in the next carriage,
198
00:11:27,940 --> 00:11:29,790
there's a very modern shower block,
199
00:11:29,820 --> 00:11:32,870
so you've got all the amenities
you could possibly want.
200
00:11:32,900 --> 00:11:35,950
Right, I've gotta get ready for
dinner, get out of my waterproofs.
201
00:11:35,980 --> 00:11:38,270
See you in minute.
202
00:11:40,180 --> 00:11:42,830
'As night falls,
dinner is served for me
203
00:11:42,860 --> 00:11:44,670
'and a bunch of Torgeir's friends
204
00:11:44,700 --> 00:11:47,310
'in our very own restaurant
carriage.'
205
00:11:49,340 --> 00:11:50,910
That's delicious!
206
00:11:50,940 --> 00:11:52,830
Did you catch this?
No.
207
00:11:52,860 --> 00:11:54,990
No.
NICK LAUGHS
208
00:11:55,020 --> 00:11:57,470
After a fantastic day on the river,
209
00:11:57,500 --> 00:11:58,710
I didn't catch anything,
210
00:11:58,740 --> 00:12:01,670
but it doesn't really matter,
to be honest, amongst friends now.
211
00:12:01,700 --> 00:12:03,070
Drinking...
212
00:12:04,220 --> 00:12:07,710
Whoa! That warms your cockles.
213
00:12:07,740 --> 00:12:10,950
...Aquavit. Skal.
214
00:12:10,980 --> 00:12:13,190
Skal, everyone.
GUESTS: Skal!
215
00:12:13,220 --> 00:12:15,630
Skal. Looking forward to tomorrow.
216
00:12:19,460 --> 00:12:22,510
'I'll be up bright and early
to get back on the railway...'
217
00:12:24,500 --> 00:12:26,470
'..but not on a train...'
218
00:12:26,500 --> 00:12:28,750
It's just so much fun!
219
00:12:28,780 --> 00:12:33,710
'..And I journey north to experience
Norway's great outdoors.'
220
00:12:33,740 --> 00:12:36,350
Well, I wanted to see snow.
LAUGHS
221
00:12:48,540 --> 00:12:51,030
TRAIN HORN WHISTLES
222
00:12:54,780 --> 00:12:58,110
'I'm on a railway adventure
through Norway.
223
00:12:58,140 --> 00:13:02,150
'From the city of Trondheim,
I've travel led more than 100 miles,
224
00:13:02,180 --> 00:13:06,430
'passing through shimmering fjords
and lush landscapes
225
00:13:06,460 --> 00:13:07,790
'to the small village of Grong.
226
00:13:09,420 --> 00:13:13,030
'After a peaceful night at the
train hotel I've been staying at...
227
00:13:16,820 --> 00:13:20,950
'..|'m off for a cycle
on the disused rail track.'
228
00:13:26,540 --> 00:13:29,510
I just think
it's the most genius idea!
229
00:13:29,540 --> 00:13:31,150
You get to see
the whole countryside,
230
00:13:31,180 --> 00:13:33,550
3km of track to play with.
231
00:13:36,580 --> 00:13:39,270
It's just so much fun!
232
00:13:39,300 --> 00:13:43,870
'The line on Torgeir's land has been
out of use since 2005, I hope,
233
00:13:43,900 --> 00:13:46,590
'when the last freight train
took this route.
234
00:13:46,620 --> 00:13:49,390
'And just for fun, this bike
has been specially adapted
235
00:13:49,420 --> 00:13:51,950
'so it can
run along the tracks here.'
236
00:13:51,980 --> 00:13:53,190
Easiest thing in the world.
237
00:13:53,220 --> 00:13:55,390
You don't even have to pedal
on the downhill bits!
238
00:14:03,140 --> 00:14:05,870
Oh, there's even a bridge.
How cool is this?!
239
00:14:05,900 --> 00:14:08,030
Cycling across a railway bridge!
240
00:14:10,940 --> 00:14:13,670
And you get the clickity-clack
where the rails meet.
241
00:14:15,940 --> 00:14:17,230
This is heaven!
242
00:14:23,020 --> 00:14:26,590
'But it's soon time to leave,
as I've got a train to catch.
243
00:14:26,620 --> 00:14:30,270
'In the 100 miles or more
I've travel led so far,
244
00:14:30,300 --> 00:14:33,630
'we've passed through endless
glistening fjords and rivers.
245
00:14:33,660 --> 00:14:36,630
'Now I'm about to cross
an extraordinary bridge,
246
00:14:36,660 --> 00:14:40,990
'and joining me for the ride
is engineer Morten Nysater.'
247
00:14:42,660 --> 00:14:44,270
Morten?
Nick?
248
00:14:44,300 --> 00:14:45,350
Yes! Hello.
249
00:14:45,380 --> 00:14:46,550
Hello.
How are you?
250
00:14:46,580 --> 00:14:48,350
You're the engineer
that's come to talk to me
251
00:14:48,380 --> 00:14:49,750
about this amazing bridge?
Yes.
252
00:14:49,780 --> 00:14:52,230
And where is it?
It's just through the tunnel.
253
00:14:52,260 --> 00:14:54,830
OK. Oh, look, here comes the train.
Yeah.
254
00:15:12,300 --> 00:15:16,470
'The Forsland Bridge
was built in 1935.
255
00:15:16,500 --> 00:15:18,230
'It's a two-in-one,
256
00:15:18,260 --> 00:15:21,150
'crossing over a river and a road.
257
00:15:21,180 --> 00:15:24,110
'And each section
has its own distinct structure.'
258
00:15:26,180 --> 00:15:29,590
Well, we are now coming
to the Forsland Bridge.
259
00:15:29,620 --> 00:15:32,590
We are on it now?
We are on it now, yes.
260
00:15:32,620 --> 00:15:36,590
This is over the river,
and this is over the road.
261
00:15:36,620 --> 00:15:39,430
It's about 206 metres long.
262
00:15:46,620 --> 00:15:50,190
'This truss bridge is structured
from interconnecting triangles,
263
00:15:50,220 --> 00:15:52,550
'making it extremely strong,
264
00:15:52,580 --> 00:15:55,670
'and able to span
a significant length.'
265
00:15:55,700 --> 00:15:58,150
So, that's...
We're into another tunnel.
266
00:15:58,180 --> 00:16:00,510
So it's tunnels and bridges
and tunnels and bridges?
267
00:16:00,540 --> 00:16:01,590
Yes.
268
00:16:01,620 --> 00:16:04,190
Engineering-wise,
it must have been very difficult
269
00:16:04,220 --> 00:16:06,870
to build a line when you have
so many fjords and mountains.
270
00:16:06,900 --> 00:16:09,790
Yes, that's why they put the bridge
271
00:16:09,820 --> 00:16:12,070
after the tunnel.
272
00:16:12,100 --> 00:16:15,830
I see, rather than go
all the way round.
273
00:16:15,860 --> 00:16:18,350
As an engineer
who works on the railways now,
274
00:16:18,380 --> 00:16:21,150
how proud are you of the people
who built this railway?
275
00:16:21,180 --> 00:16:22,830
Very proud.
276
00:16:22,860 --> 00:16:25,390
With their bare hands.
277
00:16:25,420 --> 00:16:27,350
Yeah.
Only.
278
00:16:27,380 --> 00:16:31,390
It was a very hard thing to do.
279
00:16:31,420 --> 00:16:32,750
Yeah.
280
00:16:32,780 --> 00:16:34,750
I can't believe
that all the time we talk,
281
00:16:34,780 --> 00:16:38,230
it's daylight, then it's tunnel,
then it's bridge, then it's tunnel.
282
00:16:38,260 --> 00:16:40,030
Yeah.
It's a tough landscape.
283
00:16:40,060 --> 00:16:42,190
It's a tough landscape, yes, it is.
284
00:16:42,220 --> 00:16:45,150
'As we trundle further north,
285
00:16:45,180 --> 00:16:46,990
'and closer to the Arctic Circle,
286
00:16:47,020 --> 00:16:50,390
'the landscape
is beginning to change.'
287
00:16:50,420 --> 00:16:52,590
Look, the snow
on the top of that peak.
288
00:16:52,620 --> 00:16:55,630
We've finally got to the bit
of Norway that is snowy.
289
00:16:55,660 --> 00:16:58,270
The views are spectacular.
290
00:16:58,300 --> 00:17:00,550
Well, they would be, wouldn't they?
Fjords, mountains.
291
00:17:02,340 --> 00:17:04,510
Proper outdoors, innit?
292
00:17:04,540 --> 00:17:07,150
'After travelling another 120 miles,
293
00:17:07,180 --> 00:17:10,070
'we are coming to Mosjoen,
the oldest town in this region
294
00:17:10,100 --> 00:17:12,070
'of Helge land.'
295
00:17:13,540 --> 00:17:15,150
So, this is Mosjoen,
296
00:17:15,180 --> 00:17:17,910
which is my chance
to try a bit of friluftsliv,
297
00:17:17,940 --> 00:17:19,870
which is the, you know,
great outdoor thing.
298
00:17:19,900 --> 00:17:22,670
I'm still not pronouncing it right,
I don't think.
299
00:17:22,700 --> 00:17:25,870
'From here, I'm taking to the skies.
300
00:17:28,340 --> 00:17:30,870
'I'm flying out to one
of the most sought after
301
00:17:30,900 --> 00:17:32,790
'hiker destinations in Norway,
302
00:17:32,820 --> 00:17:35,350
'with visitors coming
from all over the world
303
00:17:35,380 --> 00:17:36,870
'to stay here.'
304
00:17:38,820 --> 00:17:40,750
Well, this is the way
to get a view of Norway.
305
00:17:40,780 --> 00:17:42,310
Get up in the air.
306
00:17:43,620 --> 00:17:45,790
'Across Norway, there are cabins
307
00:17:45,820 --> 00:17:48,950
'built for hikers in remote areas.
308
00:17:48,980 --> 00:17:52,270
'And I'm off to see
one of the most beautiful ones.'
309
00:17:52,300 --> 00:17:54,070
Wow, look at that.
310
00:17:54,100 --> 00:17:55,790
We are actually
over the glacier now.
311
00:17:57,500 --> 00:17:59,590
Well, I wanted to see snow.
312
00:18:01,460 --> 00:18:04,070
The pilot has let me open the door
313
00:18:04,100 --> 00:18:05,550
to get a better view.
314
00:18:07,180 --> 00:18:08,990
What a fantastic view is this.
315
00:18:13,340 --> 00:18:16,630
The cabin that we're going to visit
is that one down there.
316
00:18:18,300 --> 00:18:21,910
'At 4,000 feet
in the Okstindan Mountains
317
00:18:21,940 --> 00:18:23,790
'the Ra bothytta cabin.
318
00:18:23,820 --> 00:18:29,510
'But with a location this remote,
how does this cabin function?
319
00:18:29,540 --> 00:18:31,950
'Project manager Sven
is here to show me.'
320
00:18:31,980 --> 00:18:34,470
Sven.
Hi. Welcome.
321
00:18:34,500 --> 00:18:36,350
Thank you very much. Wow.
322
00:18:36,380 --> 00:18:38,110
This is... This is it.
323
00:18:38,140 --> 00:18:39,790
It's beautiful.
324
00:18:39,820 --> 00:18:42,230
And the setting is incredible,
it's stunning.
325
00:18:42,260 --> 00:18:45,030
We call it
the roof for northern Norway.
326
00:18:45,060 --> 00:18:46,870
The roof of northern Norway.
327
00:18:46,900 --> 00:18:49,310
Yes, they are the mountains here.
328
00:18:49,340 --> 00:18:51,510
Can I have a look around the house?
329
00:18:51,540 --> 00:18:53,910
Yes, soon,
but first you have to help me.
330
00:18:53,940 --> 00:18:55,190
OK.
331
00:18:55,220 --> 00:18:57,870
We're going to sleigh a few things
down with the helicopter.
332
00:18:57,900 --> 00:18:59,710
Looks like
I've got to earn my keep first.
333
00:19:01,340 --> 00:19:03,110
This is snow, by the way.
334
00:19:03,140 --> 00:19:05,030
Yes, I'm sinking in it.
335
00:19:05,060 --> 00:19:08,110
Yeah, do. Come.
OK.
336
00:19:08,140 --> 00:19:12,750
'Sven volunteered his time
to manage the build of the cabin
337
00:19:12,780 --> 00:19:15,670
'and makes regular trips
up here to stock up supplies.
338
00:19:15,700 --> 00:19:19,190
'With temperatures
reaching as low as minus 20,
339
00:19:19,220 --> 00:19:21,510
'the cabin needs to be kept toasty.'
340
00:19:21,540 --> 00:19:24,910
So, what sort of stuff comes up
by helicopter?
341
00:19:24,940 --> 00:19:27,670
For example,
wood for heating the cabin.
342
00:19:27,700 --> 00:19:29,430
You see...
343
00:19:29,460 --> 00:19:31,310
There's no trees around here,
are there?
344
00:19:31,340 --> 00:19:34,750
There is nothing, there is nothing.
Literally nothing.
345
00:19:34,780 --> 00:19:37,110
What can I do to help?
It goes under.
346
00:19:37,140 --> 00:19:39,790
Ancl then out on the middle.
347
00:19:39,820 --> 00:19:41,790
Not this one, the one you have.
348
00:19:41,820 --> 00:19:44,510
My one? Oh, I see.
Not mine.
349
00:19:44,540 --> 00:19:47,070
Let me look how you've done that.
OK, I'll get it now.
350
00:19:47,100 --> 00:19:50,990
Everything that you use up here
has to be flown up?
351
00:19:51,020 --> 00:19:55,670
During winter,
you drive on snowmobiles.
352
00:19:55,700 --> 00:19:57,910
It's very steep.
353
00:19:57,940 --> 00:20:01,510
So you don't get very much cargo
with the snowmobile,
354
00:20:01,540 --> 00:20:03,310
compared to the helicopter.
355
00:20:03,340 --> 00:20:05,470
Ancl the helicopter is very fast.
356
00:20:05,500 --> 00:20:07,550
You know, it's very effective.
357
00:20:07,580 --> 00:20:09,590
Though it must be
an expensive way to do it, though.
358
00:20:09,620 --> 00:20:12,950
Yeah, sure.
We are not here to make money.
359
00:20:14,380 --> 00:20:17,510
You're not?
So you don't make money from this?
360
00:20:17,540 --> 00:20:20,390
Yeah, we make money, but we spend
the money on helicopters
361
00:20:20,420 --> 00:20:22,750
and gas and wood and everything.
362
00:20:22,780 --> 00:20:25,150
So it's just balancing.
So if...
363
00:20:25,180 --> 00:20:27,510
But that's good enough.
No, but why would you do it, then?
364
00:20:27,540 --> 00:20:29,670
Why would you do it
if you're not gonna make...?
365
00:20:29,700 --> 00:20:31,630
This is...
366
00:20:32,940 --> 00:20:35,310
...what should I say,
the pleasure of life.
367
00:20:35,340 --> 00:20:38,470
It's a way of living.
368
00:20:38,500 --> 00:20:40,870
I do it for the common good.
369
00:20:40,900 --> 00:20:42,670
For everybody.
370
00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:45,070
Oh, I wish we had a bit more of that
back in the UK.
371
00:20:45,100 --> 00:20:47,510
We have a lot of this in Norway.
372
00:20:47,540 --> 00:20:49,150
Really?
Yeah.
373
00:20:49,180 --> 00:20:51,350
I spent too many years
374
00:20:51,380 --> 00:20:54,390
on this project, just building,
establishing this place.
375
00:20:54,420 --> 00:20:56,990
No, nothing I was paid.
376
00:20:58,460 --> 00:21:00,750
My shoes were worn out.
377
00:21:00,780 --> 00:21:02,750
My clothes were worn out.
378
00:21:02,780 --> 00:21:04,950
Everything. And I got nothing.
379
00:21:04,980 --> 00:21:06,750
Not even food.
380
00:21:06,780 --> 00:21:08,670
But it was so fun,
381
00:21:08,700 --> 00:21:11,350
it was so exciting,
it was fantastic.
382
00:21:17,260 --> 00:21:20,110
'The helicopter must head off
straightaway with the rubbish
383
00:21:20,140 --> 00:21:21,870
'if it's to return in time
384
00:21:21,900 --> 00:21:24,030
'to fly us
down the mountain before dark.
385
00:21:25,220 --> 00:21:29,070
'Now I see why Sven was so keen
to put me to work straightaway.'
386
00:21:34,260 --> 00:21:37,190
You wanted to go inside? Right.
387
00:21:37,220 --> 00:21:38,870
This is heavy.
388
00:21:38,900 --> 00:21:42,310
This sack is not so heavy.
Take this.
389
00:21:42,340 --> 00:21:44,670
I can take... I'll take a heavy one.
390
00:21:44,700 --> 00:21:46,910
I'll take a heavy one.
SVEN LAUGHS
391
00:21:46,940 --> 00:21:49,030
You don't have to give me
a light one.
392
00:21:50,500 --> 00:21:52,630
What is it, what am I carrying?
For the beds.
393
00:21:52,660 --> 00:21:54,430
Oh, it's bedding, OK. Oh, linen.
394
00:21:54,460 --> 00:21:56,070
Linen.
OK.
395
00:21:57,580 --> 00:22:01,030
'The cabin is open year-round
and is self-service,
396
00:22:01,060 --> 00:22:03,710
'accommodating the intrepid hikers
397
00:22:03,740 --> 00:22:06,270
'who make
the two-hour trek to get here.'
398
00:22:06,300 --> 00:22:08,110
Thank you.
Please come in.
399
00:22:08,140 --> 00:22:09,750
Thank you.
400
00:22:11,180 --> 00:22:13,710
Oh, Sven, this is beautiful.
401
00:22:15,700 --> 00:22:17,470
This is amazing.
402
00:22:19,100 --> 00:22:20,470
Oh, look at that.
403
00:22:21,900 --> 00:22:27,190
'It's one of 550 cabins operated by
the Norwegian Trekking Association.
404
00:22:27,220 --> 00:22:29,230
'But this beauty has been voted
405
00:22:29,260 --> 00:22:31,630
'as the most popular cabin
in Norway.'
406
00:22:31,660 --> 00:22:33,590
What a view.
407
00:22:33,620 --> 00:22:36,750
This is stunning.
It is.
408
00:22:36,780 --> 00:22:38,950
I'm very rarely stuck for words,
but I have to say
409
00:22:38,980 --> 00:22:41,470
this is one of the most gobsmacking
places I've ever been.
410
00:22:41,500 --> 00:22:43,470
In my time,
I've built many buildings,
411
00:22:43,500 --> 00:22:45,310
but I've never felt like this
about...
412
00:22:45,340 --> 00:22:47,430
about a building I've walked into.
413
00:22:48,700 --> 00:22:52,310
It's... quite an emotional
experience, actually, weirdly.
414
00:22:52,340 --> 00:22:54,910
Do you find people react emotionally
to this place?
415
00:22:54,940 --> 00:22:57,430
People coming up here
for the first time
416
00:22:57,460 --> 00:23:00,310
and they stay outside,
they look at the view,
417
00:23:00,340 --> 00:23:02,870
it's amazing, right?
418
00:23:02,900 --> 00:23:07,190
Ancl then they come inside and then
the tears, they just...
419
00:23:07,220 --> 00:23:09,750
they just come.
420
00:23:09,780 --> 00:23:13,430
I think it is this framing of nature
which is so amazing.
421
00:23:13,460 --> 00:23:15,830
This is on the very borderline
422
00:23:15,860 --> 00:23:18,910
of the harsh nature,
the very tough nature,
423
00:23:18,940 --> 00:23:20,830
the one you cannot control, right?
424
00:23:20,860 --> 00:23:25,670
Ancl it's safe inside, again,
a place where you can really...
425
00:23:25,700 --> 00:23:27,830
Just...
426
00:23:27,860 --> 00:23:29,470
feel well.
427
00:23:29,500 --> 00:23:31,870
Grab a pencil and write this down.
428
00:23:31,900 --> 00:23:34,230
The Rabothytta cabin, Norway.
429
00:23:34,260 --> 00:23:37,670
Because if you like walking,
find a way to come here.
430
00:23:37,700 --> 00:23:39,910
It is absolutely extraordinary.
431
00:23:39,940 --> 00:23:42,350
It's under £20 a night to stay.
432
00:23:42,380 --> 00:23:45,670
I have never seen
anything like this.
433
00:23:45,700 --> 00:23:47,710
'What an extraordinary place.
434
00:23:47,740 --> 00:23:50,750
'But in no time at all,
I'm back on the train,
435
00:23:50,780 --> 00:23:53,870
'as my journey
through Norway continues.
436
00:23:53,900 --> 00:23:58,190
'I'll be delving into the darker
side of this country's history.'
437
00:23:58,220 --> 00:24:00,710
Think about these people.
Their shoes was broken.
438
00:24:00,740 --> 00:24:03,270
Everything was terrible for them.
439
00:24:03,300 --> 00:24:06,350
'And getting out on the water
to brave the stormy seas.'
440
00:24:07,580 --> 00:24:09,910
Get your adventure hat on
if you're coming out.
441
00:24:19,460 --> 00:24:21,590
'I'm on the Arctic Express train
442
00:24:21,620 --> 00:24:24,070
'on a railway adventure in Norway.
443
00:24:24,100 --> 00:24:27,670
'After more than 200 miles
of stunning scenery,
444
00:24:27,700 --> 00:24:29,430
'I've reached Mosjoen.
445
00:24:33,020 --> 00:24:37,230
'Not far away is the beautiful
River Forslandselva
446
00:24:37,260 --> 00:24:41,390
'and before I get back on the train,
I'm taking a trip across the water.
447
00:24:47,580 --> 00:24:49,950
'Lilian Sorensen
works in green energy.
448
00:24:49,980 --> 00:24:53,030
'She wants to show me Ovre Forsland,
449
00:24:53,060 --> 00:24:56,110
'a hydropower station
like nothing I've seen before.'
450
00:24:56,140 --> 00:24:58,350
That's the building?
That's the building.
451
00:24:58,380 --> 00:25:00,790
That's the hydroelectric plant?
Yeah.
452
00:25:00,820 --> 00:25:03,830
It looks like someone's house.
SHE LAUGHS
453
00:25:03,860 --> 00:25:06,790
Well, it's prettier than my house,
I can tell you that.
454
00:25:08,540 --> 00:25:11,110
'Despite being rich in oil,
455
00:25:11,140 --> 00:25:13,310
'Norway has been investing
in green energy,
456
00:25:13,340 --> 00:25:17,270
'building power plants like this
all across the country.
457
00:25:18,660 --> 00:25:21,030
'Just this station alone
has enough power
458
00:25:21,060 --> 00:25:23,950
'to supply 1,700 homes.'
459
00:25:23,980 --> 00:25:26,310
Almost everything we produce
of electricity in Norway
460
00:25:26,340 --> 00:25:28,310
is renewable.
461
00:25:28,340 --> 00:25:30,830
98% is renewable.
462
00:25:30,860 --> 00:25:32,630
98%?
463
00:25:33,780 --> 00:25:35,950
How have you managed to get to that?
464
00:25:35,980 --> 00:25:38,150
Are there many, many
hydroelectric plants here?
465
00:25:38,180 --> 00:25:40,150
Yeah, there are, all over Norway.
466
00:25:40,180 --> 00:25:42,350
I think it was just naturally,
467
00:25:42,380 --> 00:25:44,910
because we have
all these natural resources.
468
00:25:44,940 --> 00:25:47,150
You have a lot of rain.
We have mountains and waterfalls.
469
00:25:47,180 --> 00:25:49,070
A lot of rain, as you can see.
470
00:25:49,100 --> 00:25:52,910
'Two turbines turn the flow of water
471
00:25:52,940 --> 00:25:56,110
'into electricity
for the local area.'
472
00:25:56,140 --> 00:25:59,350
So, we did it like this to give
something back to the community,
473
00:25:59,380 --> 00:26:02,910
so that instead
of just building a power plant
474
00:26:02,940 --> 00:26:04,990
in the middle of untouched nature,
475
00:26:05,020 --> 00:26:09,230
we could facilitate
for, like, fireplaces and toilets,
476
00:26:09,260 --> 00:26:11,870
so that more people
could use the trail up here.
477
00:26:11,900 --> 00:26:13,870
So it's like a destination
to come and visit?
478
00:26:13,900 --> 00:26:15,910
It's a destination.
479
00:26:15,940 --> 00:26:18,230
I think it's amazing.
What a great idea.
480
00:26:18,260 --> 00:26:21,390
So, it just shows that you can do
things in a better way
481
00:26:21,420 --> 00:26:22,950
than you have before.
482
00:26:22,980 --> 00:26:25,150
Yeah, you're definitely doing that.
483
00:26:25,180 --> 00:26:27,110
Kind of wish that we were doing this
a bit more.
484
00:26:27,140 --> 00:26:28,630
Yeah, you can.
485
00:26:31,260 --> 00:26:33,870
I know people bang on
about renewables all the time,
486
00:26:33,900 --> 00:26:36,070
but, if you think about it,
this country produces
487
00:26:36,100 --> 00:26:38,070
98% of its power this way.
488
00:26:38,100 --> 00:26:40,950
And if you can build
an industrial plant,
489
00:26:40,980 --> 00:26:42,950
cos that's what it is really,
that looks like this
490
00:26:42,980 --> 00:26:44,910
and sits in the countryside
so beautifully,
491
00:26:44,940 --> 00:26:47,790
that then becomes
a destination for people to visit
492
00:26:47,820 --> 00:26:51,230
and to get out in the countryside,
why wouldn't you?
493
00:26:51,260 --> 00:26:53,230
Ten people a year maybe
494
00:26:53,260 --> 00:26:56,030
came through this way
before they built this.
495
00:26:56,060 --> 00:26:59,190
Now 10,000 people a year
get out into the countryside
496
00:26:59,220 --> 00:27:00,710
and use it.
497
00:27:00,740 --> 00:27:02,710
It's genius, isn't it?
498
00:27:02,740 --> 00:27:04,150
{\i1}HE CHUCKLES{\i0}
499
00:27:08,060 --> 00:27:09,630
'Still heading north,
500
00:27:09,660 --> 00:27:13,710
'I'm taking the train around
50 miles onwards to Mo I Rana.
501
00:27:13,740 --> 00:27:15,950
'From there,
following the railway line,
502
00:27:15,980 --> 00:27:20,270
'I've come to Dunderland,
an important historical site
503
00:27:20,300 --> 00:27:24,910
'with a dark past,
directly related to the railway.
504
00:27:24,940 --> 00:27:29,670
'Local historian Rune
has come to tell me its story.'
505
00:27:32,580 --> 00:27:34,990
So, this is Dunderland Prison Camp?
506
00:27:35,020 --> 00:27:36,550
Yes, it is.
507
00:27:36,580 --> 00:27:38,790
As you look around,
you can actually see
508
00:27:38,820 --> 00:27:42,430
the base of all of the buildings,
the barracks, I suppose.
509
00:27:42,460 --> 00:27:45,110
So, who was here, where were
they from, these prisoners?
510
00:27:45,140 --> 00:27:48,070
These prisoners
came from the Soviet Union.
511
00:27:48,100 --> 00:27:50,350
From different places
in the Soviet Union,
512
00:27:50,380 --> 00:27:52,990
for Hitler's Germany's mission
513
00:27:53,020 --> 00:27:57,790
to construction a railway
from Mo I Rana and up to north.
514
00:28:04,300 --> 00:28:08,270
'During World War ll,
this was a Nazi prison camp.
515
00:28:08,300 --> 00:28:13,750
'In 1940, the Nordland Railway Line
only reached as far as Mosjoen.
516
00:28:13,780 --> 00:28:17,790
'It was Hitler's plan
to improve rail supply lines,
517
00:28:17,820 --> 00:28:19,630
'especially for iron ore.
518
00:28:19,660 --> 00:28:22,350
'So thousands of Soviet
prisoners of war
519
00:28:22,380 --> 00:28:27,790
'were forced into slave lab our
to extend the line further north.'
520
00:28:30,740 --> 00:28:33,470
What do you think the conditions
were like for the prisoners here?
521
00:28:33,500 --> 00:28:35,310
It's very awful.
522
00:28:35,340 --> 00:28:37,270
Constantly starving.
523
00:28:37,300 --> 00:28:40,390
Sickness.
Everything was bad for them.
524
00:28:41,660 --> 00:28:44,830
There were 16,000 prisoners of war
525
00:28:44,860 --> 00:28:49,070
was in the construction
of the railway.
526
00:28:49,100 --> 00:28:52,870
{\i1}And of them, (“ed 2,151.{\i0}
527
00:28:54,340 --> 00:28:56,030
It's just unthinkable, isn't it?
528
00:28:56,060 --> 00:28:58,230
And the fact
that it's so recent as well.
529
00:28:58,260 --> 00:29:01,910
It just makes you think
how close we are always
530
00:29:01,940 --> 00:29:03,910
to this kind of horror.
531
00:29:03,940 --> 00:29:06,510
How do you feel when you come
and stand in this place?
532
00:29:08,100 --> 00:29:10,590
I'm trying to think.
It's very difficult.
533
00:29:10,620 --> 00:29:14,190
I feel it's our fault.
just to think about these people.
534
00:29:14,220 --> 00:29:16,350
We are standing here now
in the rain,
535
00:29:16,380 --> 00:29:19,270
and they are freezing
536
00:29:19,300 --> 00:29:22,390
and it's also
to think about these people.
537
00:29:22,420 --> 00:29:23,830
Yeah.
538
00:29:23,860 --> 00:29:27,790
Their shoes was broken.
Everything was terrible for them.
539
00:29:29,500 --> 00:29:32,830
I think it's amazing,
that's the train coming past now,
540
00:29:32,860 --> 00:29:34,590
whilst we are stood
in the prison camp
541
00:29:34,620 --> 00:29:37,430
of the Russian soldiers
who built that line...
542
00:29:37,460 --> 00:29:38,710
Yeah.
543
00:29:38,740 --> 00:29:40,390
...in terrible conditions.
544
00:29:40,420 --> 00:29:42,950
And whilst we are talking about it,
the train is going past.
545
00:29:42,980 --> 00:29:44,550
I find that astounding.
TRAIN WHISTLE
546
00:29:44,580 --> 00:29:48,310
It's a dark period of history
for Norway, isn't it?
547
00:29:48,340 --> 00:29:51,950
It's a dark history
for all the people.
548
00:29:51,980 --> 00:29:56,670
The war is a dark story
anywhere, anywhere.
549
00:29:56,700 --> 00:30:00,910
For the Soviet prisoner,
for the Norwegian,
550
00:30:00,940 --> 00:30:05,350
for everyone, for everyone,
who must live in these conditions.
551
00:30:05,380 --> 00:30:08,350
'For decades after the war,
552
00:30:08,380 --> 00:30:10,270
'this history
was forgotten in Norway.
553
00:30:10,300 --> 00:30:13,550
'But a new initiative,
Project Nordland Railway
554
00:30:13,580 --> 00:30:16,150
'is finally
bringing the past to light.'
555
00:30:16,180 --> 00:30:19,150
It's actually really eerie
to be in a place like this,
556
00:30:19,180 --> 00:30:21,470
where you know
so much suffering has happened.
557
00:30:21,500 --> 00:30:24,230
And to hear the train go past
as well
558
00:30:24,260 --> 00:30:27,070
on the track that these prisoners,
559
00:30:27,100 --> 00:30:32,750
these slave labourers, built,
was really quite chilling.
560
00:30:32,780 --> 00:30:36,510
We've been very lucky to have over,
what, 80 years of peace,
561
00:30:36,540 --> 00:30:38,230
a little more than that.
562
00:30:38,260 --> 00:30:40,710
It's very easy to forget, isn't it,
the horrors that went on?
563
00:30:40,740 --> 00:30:43,110
Not if you come
to a place like this though.
564
00:31:00,460 --> 00:31:03,670
'It's not just Norway's history
I've come to discover.
565
00:31:03,700 --> 00:31:07,390
'The landscape in this area
is truly breath-taking.'
566
00:31:07,420 --> 00:31:10,110
Look at this, look, so now
we're looking down on the river.
567
00:31:10,140 --> 00:31:11,830
Behind it, the mountains.
568
00:31:14,180 --> 00:31:17,430
It's a great way to see the country,
trundling along on a train.
569
00:31:17,460 --> 00:31:20,150
'And not too far from here
on the coast
570
00:31:20,180 --> 00:31:23,190
'is one of Norway's
incredible natural wonders.'
571
00:31:25,220 --> 00:31:28,230
Throughout this journey, I've been
travelling alongside the water,
572
00:31:28,260 --> 00:31:30,630
sometimes crossing it,
but never been on it.
573
00:31:30,660 --> 00:31:32,270
I'm about to change that.
574
00:31:36,420 --> 00:31:39,830
'Guide Erin is taking me
to Saltstraumen,
575
00:31:39,860 --> 00:31:41,430
'a narrow strait of water
576
00:31:41,460 --> 00:31:45,910
'famed for having the most powerful
tidal current in the world,
577
00:31:45,940 --> 00:31:49,030
'producing spectacular whirlpools.'
578
00:31:53,980 --> 00:31:57,670
We have here one of the strongest
tidal currents in the world.
579
00:31:57,700 --> 00:31:59,910
Ancl today is your lucky clay,
580
00:31:59,940 --> 00:32:03,590
because today is a very good
time of clay to see the current.
581
00:32:03,620 --> 00:32:06,470
'Every six hours,
when the tide turns,
582
00:32:06,500 --> 00:32:11,510
'the whirlpools churn into action
in the 150-metre narrow strait,
583
00:32:11,540 --> 00:32:13,430
'creating a maelstrom.'
584
00:32:17,140 --> 00:32:18,950
The only way to get to it
585
00:32:18,980 --> 00:32:22,510
is by rib, on rough seas like this.
586
00:32:22,540 --> 00:32:25,030
HE LAUGHS
587
00:32:25,060 --> 00:32:27,470
So get your adventure hat on
if you're coming out.
588
00:32:27,500 --> 00:32:30,030
'As we near the maelstrom,
589
00:32:30,060 --> 00:32:33,470
'whirlpools are beginning
to emerge.'
590
00:32:33,500 --> 00:32:36,910
You can see the ocean,
the water is kind of boiling.
591
00:32:36,940 --> 00:32:38,350
Yes.
592
00:32:38,380 --> 00:32:40,750
Ancl they will kind of build up,
and then...
593
00:32:40,780 --> 00:32:44,790
As we are here now,
it will just continue to be faster,
594
00:32:44,820 --> 00:32:47,310
and more and more Whirlpools.
595
00:32:53,780 --> 00:32:56,230
There's a big one over there now,
isn't there?
596
00:32:56,260 --> 00:32:57,790
Little one here.
597
00:32:57,820 --> 00:32:59,950
Big one...
Look at that.
598
00:33:03,220 --> 00:33:06,070
We are being spun by one of the
vortexes now, can you feel that?
599
00:33:06,100 --> 00:33:07,950
Like a fairground waltzer...
600
00:33:07,980 --> 00:33:09,670
made in nature.
601
00:33:09,700 --> 00:33:11,470
Look at the size of this over here.
602
00:33:11,500 --> 00:33:14,110
You can see a huge one
building up over here now.
603
00:33:14,140 --> 00:33:15,910
This really is quite extraordinary.
604
00:33:15,940 --> 00:33:16,990
It is.
605
00:33:18,180 --> 00:33:22,190
'Rumours of giant vortices
just off this stretch of coastline
606
00:33:22,220 --> 00:33:24,110
'date back centuries.
607
00:33:25,580 --> 00:33:27,830
'Stories of whole ships
being dragged down
608
00:33:27,860 --> 00:33:31,190
'into the murky depths below
by mysterious forces
609
00:33:31,220 --> 00:33:33,830
'were spread by fishermen
and sailors,
610
00:33:33,860 --> 00:33:36,430
'inspiring writers like Jules Verne,
611
00:33:36,460 --> 00:33:39,070
'Herman Melville,
and Edgar Allan Poe,
612
00:33:39,100 --> 00:33:43,430
'who introduced the word "maelstrom"
into English.'
613
00:33:46,020 --> 00:33:49,110
In my mind's eye as a child,
a whirlpool, if you fall in,
614
00:33:49,140 --> 00:33:51,870
you will get sucked under
and you will disappear.
615
00:33:51,900 --> 00:33:55,750
If you're big,
you will break the vortex.
616
00:33:55,780 --> 00:33:57,470
You're suggesting I'm big enough
617
00:33:57,500 --> 00:33:59,870
that I would break
the world's greatest vortex.
618
00:33:59,900 --> 00:34:03,190
So the movies where you see
ships being sucked into a vortex...
619
00:34:03,220 --> 00:34:04,870
I don't think that will happen.
620
00:34:04,900 --> 00:34:07,190
Are we safe on here?
I hope so.
621
00:34:07,220 --> 00:34:08,630
This boat is safe?
It is.
622
00:34:08,660 --> 00:34:12,430
'Time to return
to the safety of dry land.'
623
00:34:12,460 --> 00:34:14,230
Wow.
624
00:34:14,260 --> 00:34:16,270
I've never seen anything like that.
Have you?
625
00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:19,310
A really incredible thing
created by nature.
626
00:34:19,340 --> 00:34:21,750
Very impressive. Very impressive.
627
00:34:23,980 --> 00:34:27,510
'After that wild ride,
I'm on the last stretch of my trip.'
628
00:34:27,540 --> 00:34:29,990
TRAIN WHISTLE
629
00:34:30,020 --> 00:34:32,670
'Beyond the Arctic Circle is Bodo.
630
00:34:32,700 --> 00:34:35,110
'I'll be exploring
more of the Norwegian coast
631
00:34:35,140 --> 00:34:37,030
'and taking the plunge.'
632
00:34:37,060 --> 00:34:39,190
I'm swimming!
633
00:34:39,220 --> 00:34:40,750
I'm under the water!
634
00:34:40,780 --> 00:34:42,150
It's horrible!
635
00:34:42,180 --> 00:34:43,590
CHEERING
636
00:35:00,900 --> 00:35:03,270
'After travelling
for nearly 400 miles,
637
00:35:03,300 --> 00:35:06,230
"I've finally reached
the Arctic Circle in Norway.
638
00:35:09,780 --> 00:35:12,550
Reindeer are starting to appear
in the mountains here,
639
00:35:12,580 --> 00:35:15,230
'and they are central
to the way of life
640
00:35:15,260 --> 00:35:17,670
'for many of
the semi-nomadic Sami tribe
641
00:35:17,700 --> 00:35:19,430
'who live around here.'
642
00:35:22,300 --> 00:35:24,110
Welcome. Come inside.
643
00:35:24,140 --> 00:35:25,790
Thank you.
Yeah.
644
00:35:25,820 --> 00:35:29,990
'Nina is a reindeer herder,
and she's invited me to her gamme,
645
00:35:30,020 --> 00:35:32,230
'a traditionalSami mountain house.'
646
00:35:33,420 --> 00:35:34,910
Will you have coffee?
647
00:35:34,940 --> 00:35:37,350
I would love coffee, that would
be great, thank you very much.
648
00:35:37,380 --> 00:35:39,190
Thank you.
649
00:35:39,220 --> 00:35:42,230
Ancl will you have...
650
00:35:42,260 --> 00:35:43,550
meat, reindeer?
651
00:35:43,580 --> 00:35:46,110
This is reindeer, is it?
Yeah, it is reindeer.
652
00:35:46,140 --> 00:35:48,110
Put it in the coffee if you want.
653
00:35:48,140 --> 00:35:49,710
Put it in the coffee?
Yeah.
654
00:35:49,740 --> 00:35:50,910
Really?
655
00:35:50,940 --> 00:35:52,550
Just drop it in?
Yeah.
656
00:35:52,580 --> 00:35:53,870
OK.
Ancl drink.
657
00:35:53,900 --> 00:35:56,750
OK, thank you very much.
658
00:35:56,780 --> 00:35:58,590
'These days, Nina lives in a house,
659
00:35:58,620 --> 00:36:00,750
'but uses the gamme
for smoking reindeer.'
660
00:36:00,780 --> 00:36:03,030
So, what are you cooking today?
661
00:36:03,060 --> 00:36:07,110
I shall make blood cakes.
662
00:36:07,140 --> 00:36:08,790
Blood cakes?
Yeah.
663
00:36:08,820 --> 00:36:10,790
Like black pudding?
Out of reindeer blood.
664
00:36:10,820 --> 00:36:12,470
OK, so, like, like...
665
00:36:12,500 --> 00:36:15,070
We have black pudding,
we call it black pudding,
666
00:36:15,100 --> 00:36:16,750
when it's made with blood.
667
00:36:16,780 --> 00:36:18,990
But it's a cake?
It's a cake. OK.
668
00:36:19,020 --> 00:36:20,950
Will you have?
Yes, absolutely I'll have that.
669
00:36:20,980 --> 00:36:22,470
It'll be lovely.
Thank you very much.
670
00:36:28,500 --> 00:36:30,390
Strangely tasty, actually.
671
00:36:33,660 --> 00:36:35,070
That's very good.
672
00:36:36,380 --> 00:36:38,630
I imagine,
if you're out in the snow,
673
00:36:38,660 --> 00:36:40,830
herding the reindeer,
you come back into this,
674
00:36:40,860 --> 00:36:44,430
which is incredibly warm in here,
and eat these pancakes,
675
00:36:44,460 --> 00:36:46,110
that's a very lovely day.
676
00:36:49,380 --> 00:36:52,270
'There are
around 50,000 Sam is in Norway,
677
00:36:52,300 --> 00:36:55,030
'but it's estimated
less than 10% of them
678
00:36:55,060 --> 00:36:57,630
'follow this traditional
way of life.
679
00:36:57,660 --> 00:37:00,390
'To find out more about them,
back on the train,
680
00:37:00,420 --> 00:37:02,790
'for the final stretch
of my journey to Bodo...'
681
00:37:02,820 --> 00:37:04,190
TRAIN WHISTLE
682
00:37:04,220 --> 00:37:08,790
'..|'m joined by Sami
cultural coordinator Maria Heroes.'
683
00:37:10,460 --> 00:37:13,350
{\i1}So, who or what are the Sam?!?{\i0}
684
00:37:13,380 --> 00:37:16,870
Indigenous people of Norway, Sweden,
Finland and Russia,
685
00:37:16,900 --> 00:37:19,790
so Scandinavia
ancl also northern Russia.
686
00:37:19,820 --> 00:37:22,390
Yeah? In an area
that we would call Lapland?
687
00:37:22,420 --> 00:37:25,870
Yeah, or Sapmi,
in Sami language.
688
00:37:25,900 --> 00:37:31,430
We have a really sad history
of Norwegianisation, we call it.
689
00:37:31,460 --> 00:37:33,910
Like being Norwegianised.
690
00:37:33,940 --> 00:37:37,870
They were not supposed
to speak Sami, be Sami,
691
00:37:37,900 --> 00:37:41,470
show off their Sami heritage
or culture.
692
00:37:41,500 --> 00:37:43,430
So you kind of...
693
00:37:43,460 --> 00:37:45,630
hide it.
694
00:37:45,660 --> 00:37:49,950
So how did the Norwegian government
try to assimilate the Sami people?
695
00:37:49,980 --> 00:37:51,790
They had, like, boarding schools,
696
00:37:51,820 --> 00:37:54,830
where the first clay of school,
you are supposed to speak Norwegian
697
00:37:54,860 --> 00:37:56,150
and this is what you do.
698
00:37:56,180 --> 00:37:58,390
If they were reindeer herders
or nomadic,
699
00:37:58,420 --> 00:38:01,270
they had to go to school anyway,
and boarding school anyway.
700
00:38:01,300 --> 00:38:04,710
'In fact, Maria's own mother
was sent to boarding school,
701
00:38:04,740 --> 00:38:08,550
'unable to speak
any language but Sami on day one.'
702
00:38:08,580 --> 00:38:10,910
This book actually
has a picture of my mum
703
00:38:10,940 --> 00:38:13,070
when she was a child.
704
00:38:13,100 --> 00:38:14,670
This is her.
705
00:38:16,660 --> 00:38:20,950
'The Sami children who were forced
into the Norwegianisation program me
706
00:38:20,980 --> 00:38:23,710
'were taught
to be ashamed of their roots.
707
00:38:23,740 --> 00:38:26,470
'Sami shoes were a big giveaway.'
708
00:38:28,020 --> 00:38:31,870
People used to hide their identity,
and shoes was something...
709
00:38:31,900 --> 00:38:34,870
There are so many stories about
people finding shoes in the attic
710
00:38:34,900 --> 00:38:38,550
and like, "Oh, were we Sami really?"
711
00:38:38,580 --> 00:38:41,470
Like, they are trying
to erase the history. Oh, really?
712
00:38:41,500 --> 00:38:43,630
I have a picture I want to show you.
Yes, please.
713
00:38:46,060 --> 00:38:47,990
The photograph
is scratched at the bottom.
714
00:38:48,020 --> 00:38:51,790
Yes, his family have scratched out
his shoes
715
00:38:51,820 --> 00:38:54,470
because that would be
the only significant sign
716
00:38:54,500 --> 00:38:56,390
of Sami-ness.
717
00:38:56,420 --> 00:38:58,310
Oh, I see.
718
00:38:58,340 --> 00:39:00,670
So, there was a sense of shame
and you had to hide
719
00:39:00,700 --> 00:39:02,310
the fact that your member is Sami.
720
00:39:02,340 --> 00:39:05,950
So, how do Norwegians now
see the Sami culture?
721
00:39:05,980 --> 00:39:09,110
I think people respect it much more.
722
00:39:09,140 --> 00:39:10,990
We still have a long way to go
723
00:39:11,020 --> 00:39:13,550
because people still don't know
enough about Sami culture.
724
00:39:13,580 --> 00:39:18,950
But it is a different world today
than it was before.
725
00:39:21,460 --> 00:39:25,190
'We've come to the final stop
of my train journey now.
726
00:39:25,220 --> 00:39:27,430
'Beautiful Bodo.'
727
00:39:29,140 --> 00:39:31,470
So, this is
the end of the line in Bodo.
728
00:39:31,500 --> 00:39:33,190
But not the end of my journey,
729
00:39:33,220 --> 00:39:35,150
as there's one or two things
I want to do here
730
00:39:35,180 --> 00:39:37,230
in the Arctic Circle.
731
00:39:37,260 --> 00:39:39,390
'I've set myself one final
challenge,
732
00:39:39,420 --> 00:39:41,790
'and it's just along the coast.
733
00:39:41,820 --> 00:39:46,150
'It's time to fully embrace
the Norwegian outdoors.'
734
00:39:48,100 --> 00:39:51,590
I found out there's a group
called the Bodo Penguins,
735
00:39:51,620 --> 00:39:55,270
who are people who go
cold-water swimming in the ocean.
736
00:39:55,300 --> 00:39:56,990
And they've invited me
to come along.
737
00:39:57,020 --> 00:40:00,270
And as I'm here in Norway,
and that's what people do,
738
00:40:00,300 --> 00:40:01,790
I feell ought to join in.
739
00:40:01,820 --> 00:40:03,830
But let me tell you,
it takes me 20 minutes
740
00:40:03,860 --> 00:40:06,310
to get into a swimming pool
when I'm on holiday with the kids
741
00:40:06,340 --> 00:40:07,910
in a warm climate.
742
00:40:07,940 --> 00:40:09,390
I hate cold water.
743
00:40:10,620 --> 00:40:13,310
But you have to take
these things on, don't you?
744
00:40:13,340 --> 00:40:15,390
Hello. Dagmar?
745
00:40:15,420 --> 00:40:17,350
Hello, nice to meet you, Nick.
Nice to meet you.
746
00:40:17,380 --> 00:40:20,350
I would love to present you
to Bodo Penguins.
747
00:40:20,380 --> 00:40:22,030
Hello, Penguins.
Hey.
748
00:40:22,060 --> 00:40:23,390
I think you're all mad.
749
00:40:23,420 --> 00:40:25,390
No, we are just happy.
750
00:40:25,420 --> 00:40:27,870
Yeah, but...
And I know that for a lot of people,
751
00:40:27,900 --> 00:40:29,630
cold-water swimming
makes them happy,
752
00:40:29,660 --> 00:40:31,150
it's good for their mental health.
753
00:40:31,180 --> 00:40:33,070
I hate cold water.
754
00:40:33,100 --> 00:40:34,870
Yeah, but then you can learn
to love it.
755
00:40:34,900 --> 00:40:36,350
You have to try, give it a try.
756
00:40:36,380 --> 00:40:38,070
Right,
I'm just gonna get myself ready.
757
00:40:38,100 --> 00:40:40,870
And then I'll come and join you, OK?
Yes, very good.
758
00:40:40,900 --> 00:40:43,190
'The sea temperature
is near freezing,
759
00:40:43,220 --> 00:40:46,350
'so it's essential to wrap up
before diving in.'
760
00:40:46,380 --> 00:40:48,230
I'm putting my bobble hat
back on top.
761
00:40:48,260 --> 00:40:51,190
'By the way,
this vest has no thermal quality.'
762
00:40:51,220 --> 00:40:53,150
If nothing else,
I'll keep my ears warm.
763
00:40:53,180 --> 00:40:55,030
'It's for modesty
more than anything else.'
764
00:40:57,780 --> 00:40:59,230
Right.
765
00:41:00,780 --> 00:41:02,630
Righto, ladies, I'm ready to...
766
00:41:02,660 --> 00:41:04,390
rumble.
767
00:41:04,420 --> 00:41:06,790
I just don't know, why do you do it?
768
00:41:06,820 --> 00:41:08,710
It's... You will realise.
769
00:41:08,740 --> 00:41:10,150
It's wonderful.
770
00:41:10,180 --> 00:41:11,830
It's very close to nature,
771
00:41:11,860 --> 00:41:14,230
and you get this wonderful
endorphin kick.
772
00:41:14,260 --> 00:41:16,150
Ancl you are coming out happy.
773
00:41:16,180 --> 00:41:18,830
Ancl you are coming out, thinking,
"I can conquer the world."
774
00:41:18,860 --> 00:41:20,550
THEY LAUGH
775
00:41:22,060 --> 00:41:24,310
Look at them.
They're not even pausing.
776
00:41:27,180 --> 00:41:30,150
Argh, no.
This is horrible.
777
00:41:30,180 --> 00:41:33,550
Oh, it's ridiculous.
Focus on exhalation.
778
00:41:34,700 --> 00:41:36,150
Arghg
779
00:41:36,180 --> 00:41:38,790
Oh, no!
780
00:41:38,820 --> 00:41:41,430
Oh, the next bit,
I've got to get my undercarriage
781
00:41:41,460 --> 00:41:42,990
under the water.
782
00:41:43,020 --> 00:41:45,350
Oh, I can't feel my legs already.
783
00:41:45,380 --> 00:41:48,190
Argh! This is horrible.
784
00:41:48,220 --> 00:41:51,350
Why did we... Argh.
Ah, that's my bits.
785
00:41:52,580 --> 00:41:55,350
Oh, that's my bits under. Argh!
786
00:41:55,380 --> 00:41:57,710
Ah...
787
00:41:57,740 --> 00:41:59,350
Breathe, breathe.
788
00:41:59,380 --> 00:42:01,390
Exhale, exhale.
789
00:42:01,420 --> 00:42:03,510
LAUGHTER
790
00:42:10,700 --> 00:42:12,070
Oh!
791
00:42:12,100 --> 00:42:13,670
CHEERING
792
00:42:15,860 --> 00:42:18,470
Oh! I'm swimming!
793
00:42:18,500 --> 00:42:20,870
I'm under the water!
794
00:42:20,900 --> 00:42:22,310
It's horrible!
795
00:42:23,500 --> 00:42:25,390
CHEERING
796
00:42:28,300 --> 00:42:32,630
'It's been truly wonderful,
but now it's time to go home.'
797
00:42:33,940 --> 00:42:36,550
I came to Norway
looking for friluftsliv,
798
00:42:36,580 --> 00:42:38,870
which is love of the great outdoors.
799
00:42:38,900 --> 00:42:41,910
And I think I found it
in many places.
800
00:42:41,940 --> 00:42:45,070
'The scenery here is breath-taking.'
801
00:42:45,100 --> 00:42:46,630
Well, I wanted to see snow.
802
00:42:47,900 --> 00:42:51,510
'And I've had
some unforgettable experiences.'
803
00:42:54,340 --> 00:42:56,590
This really is quite extraordinary.
804
00:42:57,820 --> 00:43:00,230
But, yes, it rains a bit,
and it snows a bit,
805
00:43:00,260 --> 00:43:01,790
but the sun comes out
806
00:43:01,820 --> 00:43:04,030
and it's one
of the most beautiful countries
807
00:43:04,060 --> 00:43:05,790
I've ever visited.
808
00:43:05,820 --> 00:43:08,230
And I've challenged myself
and succeeded.
809
00:43:08,260 --> 00:43:10,030
Whoo.
810
00:43:10,060 --> 00:43:12,230
Let's see if I can get
some hot chocolate.
811
00:43:12,260 --> 00:43:14,630
What a trip.
59459
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