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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,180 --> 00:00:05,510 I'm travelling the world by train 2 00:00:05,540 --> 00:00:08,510 on a series of incredible journeys. 3 00:00:08,540 --> 00:00:10,430 Right on cue. 4 00:00:11,820 --> 00:00:14,110 There'll be spectacular scenery. 5 00:00:14,140 --> 00:00:15,630 It's absolutely stunning. 6 00:00:15,660 --> 00:00:17,790 I genuinely can't believe I'm here. 7 00:00:17,820 --> 00:00:19,030 Somebody pinch me. 8 00:00:19,060 --> 00:00:21,190 I'll meet amazing people... 9 00:00:21,220 --> 00:00:23,430 I brought some rope and some fruit. 10 00:00:23,460 --> 00:00:25,150 ...who push me to my limits 11 00:00:25,180 --> 00:00:26,830 in extraordinary places. 12 00:00:28,580 --> 00:00:30,790 And show me astonishing sights. 13 00:00:30,820 --> 00:00:32,830 {\i1}HE CHUCKLES{\i0} 14 00:00:32,860 --> 00:00:34,910 Oh, my word, look at that. 15 00:00:34,940 --> 00:00:37,830 I'm holding a piece of real artwork. 16 00:00:37,860 --> 00:00:40,030 That's ridiculously good! 17 00:00:40,060 --> 00:00:43,070 I discover incredible feats of engineering. 18 00:00:43,100 --> 00:00:45,670 I have a feeling this might be another switch back. 19 00:00:45,700 --> 00:00:47,110 And I'll go 20 00:00:47,140 --> 00:00:48,590 beyond the tourist trail, 21 00:00:48,620 --> 00:00:50,550 to find out what life's like along the track. 22 00:00:50,580 --> 00:00:53,190 I'm very rarely stuck for words, but I have to say, this is one 23 00:00:53,220 --> 00:00:55,350 of the most gobsmacking places I've ever been. 24 00:00:55,380 --> 00:00:56,870 Skol, everyone. 25 00:00:56,900 --> 00:00:59,510 These are my amazing railway journeys. 26 00:00:59,540 --> 00:01:00,990 So sit back, 27 00:01:01,020 --> 00:01:03,310 put your feet up, and enjoy the ride. 28 00:01:03,340 --> 00:01:04,990 All aboard! 29 00:01:05,020 --> 00:01:06,670 It's just so much fun! 30 00:01:21,020 --> 00:01:23,950 This week, I'm in Peru, travelling on one of South America's highest 31 00:01:23,980 --> 00:01:26,830 railways through the land of the Incas. 32 00:01:28,380 --> 00:01:31,830 I've been wanting to come here since I was nine, ten years old. 33 00:01:31,860 --> 00:01:35,470 I'll be visiting the floating homes of Lake Titicaca. 34 00:01:35,500 --> 00:01:37,910 It's difficult to believe these aren't solid islands. 35 00:01:37,940 --> 00:01:41,990 This is all floating on reed islands that they built themselves. 36 00:01:42,020 --> 00:01:45,230 And exploring Peru's ancient history. 37 00:01:45,260 --> 00:01:47,230 It's just so beautiful. 38 00:01:59,020 --> 00:02:03,830 Welcome to Puno, in southern Peru, a city more than 12,000 feet 39 00:02:03,860 --> 00:02:05,510 above sea level. 40 00:02:05,540 --> 00:02:08,550 And I have to tell you, even walking along here, I'm feeling every foot 41 00:02:08,580 --> 00:02:10,190 of that altitude. 42 00:02:10,220 --> 00:02:12,950 But this is where our adventure starts. 43 00:02:26,060 --> 00:02:29,870 I'm travelling on the Peru Rail Titicaca train, taking me 44 00:02:29,900 --> 00:02:32,030 from the city of Puno to Cusco, 45 00:02:32,060 --> 00:02:34,510 the ancient capital of the Incas. 46 00:02:34,540 --> 00:02:36,670 And on to my final destination, 47 00:02:36,700 --> 00:02:38,590 magnificent Machu Picchu. 48 00:02:40,300 --> 00:02:43,670 The first leg of my journey will take around ten hours, 49 00:02:43,700 --> 00:02:47,350 as we wind through 240 miles of epic scenery. 50 00:02:48,740 --> 00:02:50,510 Well, this is very plush. 51 00:02:52,620 --> 00:02:55,950 There's a couple of passenger compartments. 52 00:02:57,180 --> 00:03:00,230 The loos are posh, aren't they? Wood-panel led. 53 00:03:00,260 --> 00:03:03,110 This is the all-important kitchens, as they serve food 54 00:03:03,140 --> 00:03:04,790 all the way along. 55 00:03:04,820 --> 00:03:07,190 There's a bar carriage. 56 00:03:07,220 --> 00:03:09,350 Wow, look at this. 57 00:03:11,380 --> 00:03:13,710 And this is the viewing carriage! 58 00:03:13,740 --> 00:03:15,870 Feels like you're in a movie. 59 00:03:15,900 --> 00:03:17,390 It's incredible! 60 00:03:18,540 --> 00:03:20,350 HORN 61 00:03:20,380 --> 00:03:23,110 He sounds the horn every time he comes to a level crossing. 62 00:03:23,140 --> 00:03:24,430 Well, I say level crossing, 63 00:03:24,460 --> 00:03:26,230 there's no barriers for the cars. 64 00:03:26,260 --> 00:03:28,910 It's just where the track goes through the road. 65 00:03:31,860 --> 00:03:33,030 Back in the UK, 66 00:03:33,060 --> 00:03:34,830 we'd have barriers on both sides. 67 00:03:34,860 --> 00:03:37,710 Here, it's just sound the horn, hope that everybody gets out of the way. 68 00:03:45,100 --> 00:03:47,070 About an hour from Puno, we roll 69 00:03:47,100 --> 00:03:49,510 through the bustling city of juliaca... 70 00:03:49,540 --> 00:03:52,950 Right through the middle of town. ..where the daily market 71 00:03:52,980 --> 00:03:57,310 is interrupted by the train running through terrifyingly close. 72 00:03:57,340 --> 00:03:58,830 This is nuts. 73 00:03:58,860 --> 00:04:02,390 We're literally inches from the awnings of these stalls. 74 00:04:02,420 --> 00:04:06,030 And people stood right next to the train as it goes by. 75 00:04:11,900 --> 00:04:14,390 As soon as we've rumbled through, the stallholders whip 76 00:04:14,420 --> 00:04:17,390 out their goods, instantly covering the tracks. 77 00:04:19,180 --> 00:04:20,830 Hola. 78 00:04:32,100 --> 00:04:35,550 One of the most popular spots on the Titicaca train is the bar 79 00:04:35,580 --> 00:04:40,670 carriage, and Peru's most famous cocktail is top of the list. 80 00:04:40,700 --> 00:04:42,870 This is a big bottle of pisco. Yeah. 81 00:04:42,900 --> 00:04:44,870 Demonia De Los Andes. 82 00:04:44,900 --> 00:04:47,030 The Demon of the Andes. Demon of the Andes? 83 00:04:47,060 --> 00:04:48,390 Nice. 84 00:04:48,420 --> 00:04:49,790 Like the sound of that. 85 00:04:49,820 --> 00:04:53,150 Joining me is our translator, Bebe. 86 00:04:53,180 --> 00:04:55,150 You know all about the pisco sour? 87 00:04:55,180 --> 00:04:56,830 Of course. Would you like a pisco sour? 88 00:04:56,860 --> 00:04:58,310 Pisco is our national drink. 89 00:04:58,340 --> 00:04:59,910 Is it true that there's a national holiday? 90 00:04:59,940 --> 00:05:01,870 There's a national holiday for pisco. 91 00:05:01,900 --> 00:05:08,150 For pisco sour, for roasted chicken, for ceviche, for pachamanca. 92 00:05:08,180 --> 00:05:11,390 We love having holidays for food. Yeah. Great. 93 00:05:11,420 --> 00:05:13,910 So, what is pisco? It's a brandy made of grape. 94 00:05:13,940 --> 00:05:15,790 That's the basis of it. Yes. Right. 95 00:05:15,820 --> 00:05:18,670 3oz of pisco. 96 00:05:18,700 --> 00:05:20,790 So I have simple syrup here. 97 00:05:22,460 --> 00:05:23,910 What's this? 98 00:05:23,940 --> 00:05:25,590 This is lime juice. 99 00:05:25,620 --> 00:05:27,510 Fresh lime juice. 100 00:05:27,540 --> 00:05:29,150 Egg white. Egg white? 101 00:05:29,180 --> 00:05:31,390 This is the most important ingredient. 102 00:05:31,420 --> 00:05:32,830 It'll make it foamy. 103 00:05:36,860 --> 00:05:39,110 Sir, I am going to need your help. 104 00:05:39,140 --> 00:05:40,550 I need your help. 105 00:05:40,580 --> 00:05:41,870 Please shake it strong. 106 00:05:41,900 --> 00:05:44,110 Like. 107 00:05:44,140 --> 00:05:46,510 Like last night. Like last night? 108 00:05:46,540 --> 00:05:48,670 Yes! 109 00:05:48,700 --> 00:05:50,190 Where did that come from?! 110 00:05:50,220 --> 00:05:51,950 I think that was a very blue joke. 111 00:05:51,980 --> 00:05:54,350 I think that was... 112 00:05:55,940 --> 00:05:57,750 She's completely gone. 113 00:05:59,460 --> 00:06:01,710 We have the pisco sour. 114 00:06:01,740 --> 00:06:03,550 Yeah. just. 115 00:06:03,580 --> 00:06:06,190 I'll go through just a couple of drops. 116 00:06:06,220 --> 00:06:07,710 Lovely. Cheers. 117 00:06:10,260 --> 00:06:11,470 Oh, that's very good. 118 00:06:11,500 --> 00:06:14,150 It is nice. but doesn't actually taste the alcoholic, either. 119 00:06:14,180 --> 00:06:16,470 These are dangerous. You could have a few of these. 120 00:06:16,500 --> 00:06:19,070 That's true. It is dangerous. Yeah. 121 00:06:19,100 --> 00:06:22,350 {\i1}And then at the “fwd one, you're gone.{\i0} 122 00:06:22,380 --> 00:06:24,910 Oh, sir, you like? It's lovely. 123 00:06:24,940 --> 00:06:27,110 I think it's really lovely. SHE SPEAKS SPANISH 124 00:06:27,140 --> 00:06:28,310 Brilliant. 125 00:06:33,300 --> 00:06:38,310 More than 125 miles into this epic journey, we're now climbing even 126 00:06:38,340 --> 00:06:41,310 higher into the Peruvian Andes. 127 00:06:41,340 --> 00:06:43,950 The landscape has changed from the plains earlier, 128 00:06:43,980 --> 00:06:47,670 into this mountainous terrain and fields of alpaca, 129 00:06:47,700 --> 00:06:50,990 because this is where they live up at altitude, where they thrive. 130 00:06:57,620 --> 00:07:00,470 Our next stop is said to be the fourth-highest railway 131 00:07:00,500 --> 00:07:02,190 station in the world. 132 00:07:03,460 --> 00:07:08,230 So this is La Raya, the highest point of the entire journey, 133 00:07:08,260 --> 00:07:12,710 at around 14,000 feet, which is almost halfway up Everest, 134 00:07:12,740 --> 00:07:15,670 as a comparison for you. They have a little market here. 135 00:07:15,700 --> 00:07:17,190 There's a little chapel. 136 00:07:17,220 --> 00:07:19,310 I want to go and investigate. 137 00:07:22,700 --> 00:07:25,710 It's only a 15-minute stop, but that's enough time for me to 138 00:07:25,740 --> 00:07:27,910 look for a quick bargain or two. 139 00:07:27,940 --> 00:07:30,070 I kind of like this one because it's got designs 140 00:07:30,100 --> 00:07:32,510 with the alpaca on. 141 00:07:32,540 --> 00:07:34,910 100... 142 00:07:34,940 --> 00:07:37,430 100? Uh-huh, for you. 143 00:07:37,460 --> 00:07:40,150 I'm caught between what to buy, actually. 144 00:07:40,180 --> 00:07:41,950 Amigo... Got a big sell going on. 145 00:07:41,980 --> 00:07:44,710 Literally, I can't get a word in edgeways. 146 00:07:44,740 --> 00:07:46,350 I feel like I should have a look around. 147 00:07:46,380 --> 00:07:48,790 But then, you know, she's put in so much work, hasn't she? 148 00:07:48,820 --> 00:07:51,750 OK, so what's the total for two? 140 for you. 120? 149 00:07:51,780 --> 00:07:52,910 120? 150 00:07:52,940 --> 00:07:54,750 {\i1}Okay doke'.!{\i0} 151 00:07:54,780 --> 00:07:56,910 That's good business there, I think. 152 00:07:56,940 --> 00:07:59,070 Right there. That's good. 153 00:07:59,100 --> 00:08:00,430 There you go. 154 00:08:04,020 --> 00:08:06,030 I gave her 150. 155 00:08:06,060 --> 00:08:08,230 HE COUGHS 156 00:08:10,540 --> 00:08:11,870 What's happening? 157 00:08:11,900 --> 00:08:13,190 No, thank you very much. 158 00:08:13,220 --> 00:08:15,070 I got two thank you. Here we go. 159 00:08:15,100 --> 00:08:17,310 She is getting... She had another sale going on. 160 00:08:17,340 --> 00:08:19,310 That was... 161 00:08:19,340 --> 00:08:20,710 OK, amigo. Thank you. 162 00:08:21,860 --> 00:08:23,750 No time for any more haggling, 163 00:08:23,780 --> 00:08:26,670 the train is setting off to continue this remarkable journey. 164 00:08:32,380 --> 00:08:33,710 Ciao. 165 00:08:42,340 --> 00:08:45,470 Still to come on the next leg of my Peruvian adventure... 166 00:08:46,860 --> 00:08:50,070 ...sailing out onto sapphire-blue waters to visit some 167 00:08:50,100 --> 00:08:53,030 incredible man-made islands. 168 00:08:53,060 --> 00:08:55,430 I don't know what I had in my head, but it wasn't this. 169 00:08:55,460 --> 00:08:57,550 This is so much more amazing. 170 00:09:07,540 --> 00:09:11,990 I'm on the first leg of my railway adventure through southern Peru. 171 00:09:12,020 --> 00:09:15,110 And I've come to the shores of Lake Titicaca to get out 172 00:09:15,140 --> 00:09:16,710 onto the water. 173 00:09:26,540 --> 00:09:30,270 More than 500 years ago, these waters were a safe haven 174 00:09:30,300 --> 00:09:31,910 for the ancient Uros. 175 00:09:35,860 --> 00:09:39,670 It's thought when the Inca empire were gaining power across Peru, 176 00:09:39,700 --> 00:09:44,310 the Uros escaped their invasion by taking to the lake and building 177 00:09:44,340 --> 00:09:46,670 floating reed Islands like these. 178 00:09:52,780 --> 00:09:56,550 Created entirely from the totora roots and reeds that grow 179 00:09:56,580 --> 00:10:00,790 here and anchored to eucalyptus rods, so they don't drift away. 180 00:10:00,820 --> 00:10:02,790 As you look around, it's difficult to believe 181 00:10:02,820 --> 00:10:04,190 these aren't solid islands. 182 00:10:04,220 --> 00:10:07,910 This is all floating on reed islands that they built themselves. 183 00:10:07,940 --> 00:10:09,750 It's incredible. 184 00:10:18,340 --> 00:10:21,670 Not just the islands, but houses and even some of the boats are made 185 00:10:21,700 --> 00:10:23,470 of reeds too. 186 00:10:25,700 --> 00:10:29,430 While their lifestyle is mostly traditional, income from tourism 187 00:10:29,460 --> 00:10:33,150 allows the Uros to live in the 21st century. 188 00:10:33,180 --> 00:10:35,750 They've got generators, they've got electricity, they've got solar 189 00:10:35,780 --> 00:10:38,950 panels, they've got hotels they can put tourists up in. 190 00:10:38,980 --> 00:10:43,190 They've all got boats that they can give tours on. 191 00:10:43,220 --> 00:10:46,310 There's schools, apparently, for the kids 192 00:10:46,340 --> 00:10:48,390 on these islands. It's... 193 00:10:48,420 --> 00:10:50,830 I don't know what I had in my head. But it wasn't this. 194 00:10:50,860 --> 00:10:52,430 This is so much more amazing. 195 00:10:54,420 --> 00:10:57,990 Across these lush waters lies the island of Tattoo. 196 00:11:00,740 --> 00:11:02,550 Hello. Marco, 197 00:11:02,580 --> 00:11:05,830 the president of the island, is here to greet me. 198 00:11:05,860 --> 00:11:08,230 Marco... Let me get this off. 199 00:11:12,980 --> 00:11:15,110 Thank you very much for being here. 200 00:11:15,140 --> 00:11:17,150 It's my pleasure to be here. 201 00:11:17,180 --> 00:11:21,950 I brought some rope and some fruit. 202 00:11:23,420 --> 00:11:26,510 OK. Excellent. I'm glad I could be of help. 203 00:11:26,540 --> 00:11:28,070 Who's this? 204 00:11:30,300 --> 00:11:34,230 It's my grandchild. Hello. How are you? 205 00:11:34,260 --> 00:11:36,270 Fist bump there! Good. 206 00:11:36,300 --> 00:11:37,510 He is my son. 207 00:11:38,860 --> 00:11:42,510 The Uros speak Aymara, one of about 50 indigenous 208 00:11:42,540 --> 00:11:45,150 languages still spoken in Peru. 209 00:11:45,180 --> 00:11:46,390 It's amazing. 210 00:11:46,420 --> 00:11:49,510 I have to say, first off, standing on this island, it's not bouncing 211 00:11:49,540 --> 00:11:51,350 or anything, but it's very squashy. 212 00:11:56,620 --> 00:12:00,790 However, I'm not on dry, well, squashy land for long, as Marco 213 00:12:00,820 --> 00:12:02,710 is taking me fishing. 214 00:12:04,740 --> 00:12:08,470 The Uros still follow a traditional lifestyle of fishing and farming. 215 00:12:10,060 --> 00:12:14,470 So are these, these nets you put out earlier today? 216 00:12:19,780 --> 00:12:22,430 Like, literally pebbles tied onto it. 217 00:12:22,460 --> 00:12:24,630 That's the weights that are holding the nets down. 218 00:12:24,660 --> 00:12:26,350 Your floats to hold the top of it. 219 00:12:28,980 --> 00:12:30,510 May I see? 220 00:12:33,180 --> 00:12:34,590 And can you eat this? 221 00:12:34,620 --> 00:12:35,990 Si. 222 00:12:36,020 --> 00:12:39,150 There's the size of fish that we're talking about. 223 00:12:39,180 --> 00:12:41,950 So, Marcus, how many of these do you need to catch to make a meal? 224 00:12:51,300 --> 00:12:54,670 There you go. So the haul of the net so far. 225 00:12:54,700 --> 00:12:56,870 These small fish 226 00:12:56,900 --> 00:12:59,470 are a staple of the Uros' diet. 227 00:12:59,500 --> 00:13:01,950 For foods they can't grow on the islands, 228 00:13:01,980 --> 00:13:03,510 like potatoes and grain, 229 00:13:03,540 --> 00:13:05,270 they barter with the mainlanders. 230 00:13:07,220 --> 00:13:10,670 Why do you continue to live this life, Marcos? 231 00:13:10,700 --> 00:13:13,670 Would it not be easier to live on the mainland? 232 00:13:27,900 --> 00:13:31,470 Yeah. So, what did we get? What food? 233 00:13:35,140 --> 00:13:37,710 31 fish is good enough for a meal? Excellent. 234 00:13:37,740 --> 00:13:40,710 Yeah, what is "thank you" in Aymara? 235 00:13:40,740 --> 00:13:41,870 {\i1}SPEAKS A'! MARA{\i0} 236 00:13:41,900 --> 00:13:43,550 NICK REPEATS 237 00:13:47,180 --> 00:13:49,870 {\i1}SPEAKS A'! MARA{\i0} 238 00:13:49,900 --> 00:13:51,550 You speak like a local. 239 00:13:51,580 --> 00:13:52,750 LAUGHTER 240 00:13:54,220 --> 00:13:56,590 I do not... I do not speak like a local! 241 00:13:56,620 --> 00:13:58,310 But thank you very much. You're very generous. 242 00:13:58,340 --> 00:14:00,710 OK, so now... Now, I can take us out. 243 00:14:00,740 --> 00:14:02,270 Let's get us out of here. 244 00:14:17,140 --> 00:14:21,470 The very first thing that strikes me is on an island made of straw 245 00:14:21,500 --> 00:14:23,990 and reeds, you have fire. 246 00:14:24,020 --> 00:14:26,550 Is that not the worst possible combination? 247 00:14:28,060 --> 00:14:30,230 We just might be careful! 248 00:14:30,260 --> 00:14:32,750 That we don't get a big fire! 249 00:14:32,780 --> 00:14:36,270 Many times before cooking, we have to watering around. 250 00:14:36,300 --> 00:14:37,910 Oh, that's interesting. 251 00:14:41,340 --> 00:14:43,190 Hopefully you enjoy this. 252 00:14:43,220 --> 00:14:45,390 Thank you. 253 00:14:45,420 --> 00:14:47,590 So, as far as I can see, three types of potato. 254 00:14:47,620 --> 00:14:49,230 That's one type of potato. 255 00:14:49,260 --> 00:14:51,070 Oka. 256 00:14:51,100 --> 00:14:53,510 And then...? Dehydrated. 257 00:14:53,540 --> 00:14:55,710 Potatoes come from Peru, 258 00:14:55,740 --> 00:14:58,470 so not surprisingly, they're a big part of everyday meals here. 259 00:14:58,500 --> 00:14:59,710 Wow. 260 00:14:59,740 --> 00:15:02,550 That's a very different type of potato - very grainy. 261 00:15:02,580 --> 00:15:04,510 We dehydrate just in the winter. 262 00:15:04,540 --> 00:15:05,990 That's unusual, that. 263 00:15:09,540 --> 00:15:15,190 Well, now, that one is almost fruity flavoured. 264 00:15:15,220 --> 00:15:18,110 These taste very different. A bit of fish. 265 00:15:20,500 --> 00:15:21,990 Oh, that's delicious. 266 00:15:23,700 --> 00:15:26,470 Thank you so much for allowing me to come and visit your village 267 00:15:26,500 --> 00:15:28,870 and to join in with some of the activities. 268 00:15:28,900 --> 00:15:31,470 It's been a really beautiful insight... 269 00:15:32,820 --> 00:15:34,590 ...into the way you live. 270 00:15:38,780 --> 00:15:43,310 What an hon our to see people so committed to preserving 271 00:15:43,340 --> 00:15:44,590 their way of life. 272 00:15:46,540 --> 00:15:48,990 And there's so much more still to see. 273 00:15:49,020 --> 00:15:52,510 Back on the train, there's nearly 100 miles to go before we get 274 00:15:52,540 --> 00:15:54,470 to the city of Cusco. 275 00:15:59,860 --> 00:16:03,590 I'm not dancing. I'm staying still...with the sway of train. 276 00:16:03,620 --> 00:16:05,030 It's some skill, actually, 277 00:16:05,060 --> 00:16:06,910 to be able to dance on a moving train. 278 00:16:18,260 --> 00:16:19,630 Ho! 279 00:16:25,140 --> 00:16:27,910 Doesn't matter whether you're in a bar in Dublin or a train in Peru, 280 00:16:27,940 --> 00:16:29,790 everybody likes to dance, don't they? 281 00:16:33,180 --> 00:16:35,030 I've got to say, I am loving this. 282 00:16:35,060 --> 00:16:36,710 What a way to travel. 283 00:16:36,740 --> 00:16:39,350 You get to see all the countryside and you go through towns. 284 00:16:39,380 --> 00:16:41,830 You see the colours, the people. 285 00:16:41,860 --> 00:16:44,550 Got music, you're dancing, you got food on the train. 286 00:16:44,580 --> 00:16:46,950 And it's much more social than a British train. 287 00:16:46,980 --> 00:16:50,790 Everybody's chatting away to each other, making friends already. 288 00:16:50,820 --> 00:16:53,350 I really would recommend you give this a go! 289 00:17:06,500 --> 00:17:09,310 After travelling nearly 240 miles, 290 00:17:09,340 --> 00:17:12,910 the light is fading as I reach my next destination. 291 00:17:15,820 --> 00:17:18,070 So as the sun sets, this is us 292 00:17:18,100 --> 00:17:21,270 pulling into Wanchaq Station in Cusco. 293 00:17:23,100 --> 00:17:24,390 Fabulous. 294 00:17:38,700 --> 00:17:41,390 It's a beautiful morning here in Cusco. 295 00:17:43,420 --> 00:17:48,470 This was once the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, and it's now one 296 00:17:48,500 --> 00:17:50,950 of Peru's top tourist attractions. 297 00:17:53,820 --> 00:17:56,190 To get a real flavour of this place. 298 00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:59,150 I've come to the city's most ancient market. 299 00:17:59,180 --> 00:18:01,710 For me, when you travel to a new place, it's always 300 00:18:01,740 --> 00:18:04,310 a good idea to get into the market if it's safe, and it is here. 301 00:18:06,700 --> 00:18:09,390 There's every kind of fruit and vegetable on sale. 302 00:18:11,980 --> 00:18:14,030 He's drying pumpkins in here. 303 00:18:14,060 --> 00:18:16,830 Beautiful bit of pumpkin. Hola. 304 00:18:18,500 --> 00:18:19,950 Look at the vibrant colours. 305 00:18:19,980 --> 00:18:21,190 Isn't it lovely? 306 00:18:21,220 --> 00:18:23,030 It's like a piece of art, isn't it? 307 00:18:26,940 --> 00:18:28,670 Thank you very much. 308 00:18:28,700 --> 00:18:30,350 Gracias! 309 00:18:32,300 --> 00:18:33,830 TANNOY IN SPANISH 310 00:18:34,900 --> 00:18:39,430 This is the Peruvian equivalent of, "Come on up, get your strawberries. 311 00:18:39,460 --> 00:18:41,630 "Come and get your strawberries here!" 312 00:18:47,260 --> 00:18:49,910 This part of the market is known as the Andean Hospital, 313 00:18:49,940 --> 00:18:53,190 because here all the herbs that they used to make local brews 314 00:18:53,220 --> 00:18:56,230 to help you with altitude sickness and many other illnesses, too. 315 00:18:56,260 --> 00:18:59,230 These are all people who've gathered stuff from natural plants 316 00:18:59,260 --> 00:19:01,030 and brought them down here to sell. 317 00:19:01,060 --> 00:19:03,390 So this little herb... Sorry. Excuse me. 318 00:19:03,420 --> 00:19:05,950 ...is Andean mint. After you. 319 00:19:07,340 --> 00:19:10,070 It's a little herb they use to make a tea, which helps 320 00:19:10,100 --> 00:19:11,870 with altitude sickness. 321 00:19:11,900 --> 00:19:13,390 Excuse me. 322 00:19:13,420 --> 00:19:16,070 And it smells of mint. It's a very tasty tea, 323 00:19:16,100 --> 00:19:18,310 actually, I've been using it whilst I've been here. 324 00:19:18,340 --> 00:19:19,630 After you. 325 00:19:26,140 --> 00:19:29,550 I've still got some time to kill before my next train. 326 00:19:29,580 --> 00:19:32,750 So I'm heading out of the city to view the world-renowned 327 00:19:32,780 --> 00:19:34,750 Moray Inca ruins. 328 00:19:36,140 --> 00:19:39,070 But I'm not just here for the archaeology. 329 00:19:40,300 --> 00:19:44,270 Inside this modest building is one of Peru's most exclusive 330 00:19:44,300 --> 00:19:47,070 restaurants - Mil Centro. 331 00:19:47,100 --> 00:19:49,710 This is where the wealthy rub shoulders. 332 00:19:49,740 --> 00:19:53,150 So I've dressed suitably for the occasion. 333 00:19:53,180 --> 00:19:55,030 Welcome! 334 00:19:55,060 --> 00:19:58,070 Owner Virgilio Martinez was named one of the 335 00:19:58,100 --> 00:19:59,590 world's best chefs, in 2018. 336 00:20:00,820 --> 00:20:02,350 Please, come. 337 00:20:02,380 --> 00:20:05,870 And his restaurants are famous the world over. 338 00:20:05,900 --> 00:20:09,190 Before I taste so much as a bite, Virgilio wants to show me 339 00:20:09,220 --> 00:20:11,550 his food lab. So this is the lab? 340 00:20:11,580 --> 00:20:13,030 Yeah, this is the lab. 341 00:20:13,060 --> 00:20:16,590 You see the guys here cataloguing ingredients, plants and different 342 00:20:16,620 --> 00:20:18,950 seeds, fruits that we use. 343 00:20:18,980 --> 00:20:21,750 Ancl then we have some ingredients here. 344 00:20:21,780 --> 00:20:24,470 These varieties of corn. Barks. 345 00:20:24,500 --> 00:20:25,590 You cook with the bark? 346 00:20:25,620 --> 00:20:28,510 Yeah. With the infusion, with the barks. 347 00:20:28,540 --> 00:20:32,070 The restaurant's philosophy centres on the celebration of indigenous 348 00:20:32,100 --> 00:20:35,430 ingredients grown in the surrounding highlands. 349 00:20:35,460 --> 00:20:39,630 The idea is basically to use things that probably we've never 350 00:20:39,660 --> 00:20:41,470 used before in gastronomy. 351 00:20:43,340 --> 00:20:46,990 Making this possible is a team of botanists and biologists 352 00:20:47,020 --> 00:20:51,030 researching and experimenting with taste and texture combinations 353 00:20:51,060 --> 00:20:52,910 of the regional produce. 354 00:20:52,940 --> 00:20:55,510 So do you come here sometimes after being away for two weeks 355 00:20:55,540 --> 00:20:57,790 and they say, "We've discovered this amazing thing"? Yes. 356 00:20:57,820 --> 00:20:59,590 Ancl then they produce the information 357 00:20:59,620 --> 00:21:01,750 and then I need to Google that information. 358 00:21:01,780 --> 00:21:03,270 Right. 359 00:21:03,300 --> 00:21:06,150 Local farmers grow the produce for the restaurant. 360 00:21:06,180 --> 00:21:08,870 And there's one ingredient that takes centre stage. 361 00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:11,590 Sorry about this, because I have to mention potatoes. 362 00:21:11,620 --> 00:21:13,230 Peru, the country of potatoes. 363 00:21:13,260 --> 00:21:15,830 The obsession that we have with potatoes. Yes! 364 00:21:15,860 --> 00:21:18,910 It seems that everyone here, from the poorest to the poshest, 365 00:21:18,940 --> 00:21:20,950 is obsessed with the humble spud. 366 00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:23,550 Different sizes, different shapes, different colours. 367 00:21:23,580 --> 00:21:27,390 You know, we're producing like 120 over here in this farm. 368 00:21:27,420 --> 00:21:29,030 But that's nothing. In all, 369 00:21:29,060 --> 00:21:32,470 there's said to be well over 3,000 potato varieties here. 370 00:21:32,500 --> 00:21:34,350 Look at the colours, you know. 371 00:21:34,380 --> 00:21:35,790 Wow, that's incredible. 372 00:21:35,820 --> 00:21:37,470 We're using the skin of the potato. 373 00:21:37,500 --> 00:21:39,950 We're using the sweetness of the potato, where you see 374 00:21:39,980 --> 00:21:41,550 the texture of the potatoes. 375 00:21:41,580 --> 00:21:44,750 We're using also the potatoes as a thickener. 376 00:21:44,780 --> 00:21:47,230 So... Cos of the starch. Yes. 377 00:21:47,260 --> 00:21:50,350 You know, it will be a mistake if we see potatoes just as a side 378 00:21:50,380 --> 00:21:54,990 dish for, for us - the main protagonist is the potato. 379 00:21:56,460 --> 00:21:59,550 Who would have thought the potato could come in so many varieties? 380 00:21:59,580 --> 00:22:00,950 Incredible. 381 00:22:04,580 --> 00:22:06,390 Back in the Virgilio's restaurant, 382 00:22:06,420 --> 00:22:11,390 I'll get to savour these flavours in an extraordinary menu. 383 00:22:11,420 --> 00:22:13,350 That's ridiculously good! 384 00:22:15,060 --> 00:22:17,950 And I'll be discovering some hidden treasures. 385 00:22:17,980 --> 00:22:19,870 I can't tell you how excited I am! 386 00:22:21,100 --> 00:22:23,950 I'm holding a piece of real artwork. 387 00:23:34,100 --> 00:23:38,310 I am on an epic railway adventure across the incredible landscape 388 00:23:38,340 --> 00:23:42,470 of Peru, and I've finally reached the ancient city of Cusco. 389 00:23:46,340 --> 00:23:50,270 I'm up in the hills at exclusive restaurant Mil Centro, owned 390 00:23:50,300 --> 00:23:53,150 by world-renowned chef Virgilio Martinez. 391 00:23:55,140 --> 00:23:58,190 He's serving me a selection of dishes from his extraordinary 392 00:23:58,220 --> 00:24:00,710 eight-course dining experience... 393 00:24:00,740 --> 00:24:03,310 Look at these crispy textures. ..that would set you back 394 00:24:03,340 --> 00:24:05,510 more than £200 per person. 395 00:24:05,540 --> 00:24:07,390 Coming from this.. 396 00:24:08,460 --> 00:24:10,430 ...freeze-dried potatoes. 397 00:24:10,460 --> 00:24:13,150 Freeze drying was first invented by the Incas, 398 00:24:13,180 --> 00:24:15,470 as a way of preserving potatoes. This... 399 00:24:15,500 --> 00:24:17,310 And what's in the sauce? 400 00:24:17,340 --> 00:24:19,310 Tamarillo. 401 00:24:19,340 --> 00:24:21,150 Tree tomato. 402 00:24:21,180 --> 00:24:24,230 The tamarillo, or tree tomato, is native to Peru, too. 403 00:24:25,540 --> 00:24:27,390 Oh, that's amazing. Hint of tomato. 404 00:24:27,420 --> 00:24:29,670 But a lot more... I don't know what it is, pineapple, 405 00:24:29,700 --> 00:24:32,270 or...? There's something else in that flavour, that's... 406 00:24:32,300 --> 00:24:35,910 It's the fermentation of the tree tomato that Manuel is doing. 407 00:24:35,940 --> 00:24:39,070 Next is the unique combination of fava bean and butter, 408 00:24:39,100 --> 00:24:41,030 flavoured with elderberry. 409 00:24:41,060 --> 00:24:45,510 Put a little bit on the fava bean cake. 410 00:24:50,100 --> 00:24:52,350 That's like a sweet butter. 411 00:24:52,380 --> 00:24:54,190 Delicious, absolutely delicious. 412 00:24:54,220 --> 00:24:57,470 So basically here we want to break some protocols about like, you know, 413 00:24:57,500 --> 00:24:58,990 about the fine dining. 414 00:24:59,020 --> 00:25:03,070 You know, like, you can use your fingers, you can, you know, 415 00:25:03,100 --> 00:25:07,990 enjoy this because in a way, this has to be more rustic. 416 00:25:08,020 --> 00:25:11,630 Drinks are just as unusual, specially created to match 417 00:25:11,660 --> 00:25:13,230 with each course. 418 00:25:13,260 --> 00:25:14,870 This is a potato drink? 419 00:25:14,900 --> 00:25:16,270 Yeah. Of course it is. 420 00:25:16,300 --> 00:25:18,110 Alcohol that we're getting 421 00:25:18,140 --> 00:25:20,470 from the fermentation of potato. 422 00:25:20,500 --> 00:25:25,350 Ancl then we add the juice that is coming from the cacao. 423 00:25:25,380 --> 00:25:28,630 Come on. That's ridiculously good. 424 00:25:28,660 --> 00:25:31,070 OK, so there's a little bit of lime in there as well.. 425 00:25:31,100 --> 00:25:33,110 Lime flavour? No, is the juice of the cacao. 426 00:25:33,140 --> 00:25:35,070 Is it really? Yeah. I like it a lot. 427 00:25:35,100 --> 00:25:36,950 I could get into a lot of trouble drinking 428 00:25:36,980 --> 00:25:39,190 that because that's very easy to drink. 429 00:25:39,220 --> 00:25:41,550 That's a very easy drink. Beautiful cocktail, yeah. 430 00:25:41,580 --> 00:25:44,190 Amazing what you can do with a potato. 431 00:25:44,220 --> 00:25:46,790 The whole idea is to give you the sense of place and also 432 00:25:46,820 --> 00:25:48,230 this sense of identity. 433 00:25:48,260 --> 00:25:51,710 I'm proud of being a Peruvian, also. 434 00:25:51,740 --> 00:25:52,990 It's a joy. 435 00:26:04,060 --> 00:26:06,390 Next morning, I'm back on the train. 436 00:26:08,420 --> 00:26:11,830 With nearly 70 miles to go before I reach my final goal, 437 00:26:11,860 --> 00:26:13,390 Machu Picchu. 438 00:26:18,700 --> 00:26:21,350 From San Pedro Station in Cusco, 439 00:26:21,380 --> 00:26:23,150 already at high altitude, 440 00:26:23,180 --> 00:26:26,350 we climb quickly out of the city and then begin the descent 441 00:26:26,380 --> 00:26:28,150 to Machu Picchu. 442 00:26:33,300 --> 00:26:37,470 It's so steep, it set railway engineers a huge challenge. 443 00:26:37,500 --> 00:26:39,750 This is their solution. 444 00:26:39,780 --> 00:26:41,510 It's called el zigzag. 445 00:26:42,700 --> 00:26:44,430 So what they do is, to get uphill, 446 00:26:44,460 --> 00:26:48,430 they go up one way and then go into reverse and go up a bit higher, 447 00:26:48,460 --> 00:26:51,070 and then switch the track and go a bit higher and switch the track 448 00:26:51,100 --> 00:26:52,830 and go a bit higher. 449 00:26:52,860 --> 00:26:56,070 I have a feeling this might be another switch back. 450 00:26:56,100 --> 00:26:58,230 So we've come to a stop now, wait for the jolt, 451 00:26:58,260 --> 00:26:59,790 which will be the engine. 452 00:26:59,820 --> 00:27:02,150 Instead of pushing, it will pull and the links will make it go. 453 00:27:05,460 --> 00:27:07,030 There's the jolt. 454 00:27:08,940 --> 00:27:10,310 And now... 455 00:27:11,380 --> 00:27:14,190 ...the train's pulling us instead of pushing us. Am I sounding a bit 456 00:27:14,220 --> 00:27:15,950 nerdy about trains? 457 00:27:15,980 --> 00:27:20,110 It's just such a cool way to go up a really steep mountain. 458 00:27:22,980 --> 00:27:25,110 It takes half an hour for the train 459 00:27:25,140 --> 00:27:26,950 to snake up this mountainside 460 00:27:26,980 --> 00:27:28,350 on five switchbacks. 461 00:27:29,620 --> 00:27:30,750 Wow, that's a view. 462 00:27:30,780 --> 00:27:33,190 I can actually see the train ahead of us, the engine pulling us 463 00:27:33,220 --> 00:27:34,710 around the bend. 464 00:27:34,740 --> 00:27:36,510 The power in that engine 465 00:27:36,540 --> 00:27:39,110 to be pulling all of this weight 600, 466 00:27:39,140 --> 00:27:42,430 700 feet up from Cusco. 467 00:27:42,460 --> 00:27:45,950 And it works because of these switch backs. 468 00:27:45,980 --> 00:27:49,710 For the next leg of this journey, I'm joined by industrial historian 469 00:27:49,740 --> 00:27:53,390 Claudia Alvarez, who's going to educate me on the history 470 00:27:53,420 --> 00:27:55,270 of Peru's trains. 471 00:27:55,300 --> 00:27:58,910 Trains are obviously very important to Peru, very big country, long 472 00:27:58,940 --> 00:28:00,870 distances, high altitudes. 473 00:28:00,900 --> 00:28:04,230 And this switchback is an amazing piece of engineering. 474 00:28:04,260 --> 00:28:06,350 I don't think I've seen that anywhere else. 475 00:28:09,900 --> 00:28:12,510 I think they were all going crazy. 476 00:28:12,540 --> 00:28:14,990 She was telling me of... "No, no, no, it can't leave. 477 00:28:15,020 --> 00:28:16,390 "No, it's going to be impossible." 478 00:28:16,420 --> 00:28:20,310 Ancl then we're here now and said, "You made it." 479 00:28:20,340 --> 00:28:23,390 You see, when you when you talk about this, you're A, very excited 480 00:28:23,420 --> 00:28:26,910 because you obviously love trains but also very proud of it. 481 00:28:49,620 --> 00:28:52,030 And that was the first steam train that did this line? 482 00:28:52,060 --> 00:28:55,270 Yes. So did steam used to do the switchbacks? 483 00:28:55,300 --> 00:28:57,750 Used to do that with the steam train?! 484 00:28:57,780 --> 00:29:00,070 These are, these are incredible pictures. 485 00:29:04,900 --> 00:29:08,310 I want to explore more of Peru's fascinating history, 486 00:29:08,340 --> 00:29:11,950 so next, I'm heading into the sacred valley of the Incas. 487 00:29:13,660 --> 00:29:15,510 At its height, the Inca Empire 488 00:29:15,540 --> 00:29:17,550 stretched from Ecuador and Peru 489 00:29:17,580 --> 00:29:19,550 all the way down to southern Chile, 490 00:29:19,580 --> 00:29:21,350 until the Incas were defeated 491 00:29:21,380 --> 00:29:23,470 by the Spanish in the 16th century. 492 00:29:27,340 --> 00:29:31,150 This is Ollantaytambo, which was the scene of huge resistance 493 00:29:31,180 --> 00:29:33,470 by the Incas to the Spanish. 494 00:29:33,500 --> 00:29:35,110 That's not why I'm here. 495 00:29:38,260 --> 00:29:43,270 I'm here for this, Machu Colca, an archaeological site that is yet 496 00:29:43,300 --> 00:29:45,270 to be fully explored. 497 00:29:46,700 --> 00:29:50,310 Joining me is archaeologist Daniel O'Shea. 498 00:29:50,340 --> 00:29:51,950 So, Daniel, what is this site? 499 00:29:51,980 --> 00:29:54,550 OK. This site is called Machu Colca. 500 00:29:54,580 --> 00:29:58,510 Machu means old, and colca is storeroom. 501 00:29:58,540 --> 00:30:03,150 So this is a system of ancient terraced storerooms. 502 00:30:03,180 --> 00:30:06,750 So here is where they would have been storing most likely food 503 00:30:06,780 --> 00:30:09,750 products like corn, potatoes, different grains. 504 00:30:09,780 --> 00:30:11,990 So what age are we talking about? What are you discovering? 505 00:30:12,020 --> 00:30:14,230 Are we going Inca or...? 506 00:30:14,260 --> 00:30:15,750 So, Inca originally. 507 00:30:15,780 --> 00:30:17,030 Ancl then pre-lnca. 508 00:30:17,060 --> 00:30:20,630 So we're talking in the region of about 900 to 1,200 CE 509 00:30:20,660 --> 00:30:22,150 of the common era. 510 00:30:22,180 --> 00:30:24,670 So just before the, the Inca. 511 00:30:24,700 --> 00:30:27,190 OK. I've done a bit of archaeology. 512 00:30:27,220 --> 00:30:29,390 I've joined in with some archaeological digs 513 00:30:29,420 --> 00:30:32,310 on the east coast of America and some in the UK as well. 514 00:30:32,340 --> 00:30:36,030 So... Yeah. ..I'd like... To tick off Peru on your list. 515 00:30:36,060 --> 00:30:37,470 That would be great. 516 00:30:38,860 --> 00:30:41,910 Long before the Incas arrived, Peru was home 517 00:30:41,940 --> 00:30:44,590 to many indigenous cultures. 518 00:30:44,620 --> 00:30:48,430 Traces of the Cilcay, who were famously skilled potters are hidden 519 00:30:48,460 --> 00:30:50,590 within these hills. 520 00:30:50,620 --> 00:30:52,230 I'm so excited to be here. 521 00:30:52,260 --> 00:30:54,910 May I have a go at the base? Absolutely. 522 00:30:54,940 --> 00:30:57,070 I'm going to start with the brush first and see what 523 00:30:57,100 --> 00:30:59,310 we can clear from the edge. 524 00:30:59,340 --> 00:31:02,150 Until I can get to whatever 525 00:31:02,180 --> 00:31:03,750 it's sat in. 526 00:31:03,780 --> 00:31:05,270 There you go. 527 00:31:05,300 --> 00:31:07,510 It's loosened of its own accord just by clearing 528 00:31:07,540 --> 00:31:08,990 what was on the sides of it. 529 00:31:09,020 --> 00:31:10,390 But that's good. 530 00:31:10,420 --> 00:31:14,150 I can't tell you how excited I am, but this is just ridiculously exciting. 531 00:31:14,180 --> 00:31:16,350 So, very carefully... 532 00:31:16,380 --> 00:31:18,150 Yeah. It's come. 533 00:31:20,620 --> 00:31:22,910 Oh, my word, look at that. Fantastic. 534 00:31:22,940 --> 00:31:26,630 Can you see here? So here's the nose. 535 00:31:26,660 --> 00:31:28,590 The mouth. 536 00:31:28,620 --> 00:31:29,910 What appears to be something 537 00:31:29,940 --> 00:31:31,590 underneath the lip, like a V, 538 00:31:31,620 --> 00:31:34,070 maybe a chin or maybe a piece of jewellery or something. 539 00:31:34,100 --> 00:31:36,430 And then a very angular eye up here. 540 00:31:36,460 --> 00:31:38,390 Ancl these almond-shaped eyes. 541 00:31:38,420 --> 00:31:43,470 This is classic of the Cilcay style of working with ceramics. 542 00:31:43,500 --> 00:31:47,390 So, like 900 to 1200. Oh, my... 543 00:31:49,020 --> 00:31:50,870 I'm holding a piece of real artwork. 544 00:31:50,900 --> 00:31:54,190 After, after years and years as an archaeologist doing this, 545 00:31:54,220 --> 00:31:56,350 do you still get us excited? Because I'm literally 546 00:31:56,380 --> 00:31:57,830 vibrating with excitement. 547 00:31:57,860 --> 00:32:01,030 Absolutely. It's thrilling. It's thrilling. 548 00:32:01,060 --> 00:32:03,390 It's just, it's extraordinary. 549 00:32:03,420 --> 00:32:06,830 This piece that we just lifted, with the face on, that's going to end up in a museum. 550 00:32:06,860 --> 00:32:08,990 It's got to, hasn't it? I think so. 551 00:32:09,020 --> 00:32:11,750 It's a very beautiful piece. 552 00:32:11,780 --> 00:32:13,150 I could stay here for weeks. 553 00:32:13,180 --> 00:32:15,470 You could. Honestly, this is heaven for me. 554 00:32:15,500 --> 00:32:17,270 It's absolutely fantastic. 555 00:32:17,300 --> 00:32:19,230 Thank you. Not at all. 556 00:32:19,260 --> 00:32:20,670 My pleasure. 557 00:32:25,740 --> 00:32:28,150 The ceramic piece gets a gentle wash, 558 00:32:28,180 --> 00:32:31,470 revealing its brilliant colours. 559 00:32:31,500 --> 00:32:34,270 It's stunning. It's just so beautiful. 560 00:32:35,580 --> 00:32:37,470 And I'm almost speechless. 561 00:32:45,820 --> 00:32:49,310 After that extraordinary find, I'm back on the train for the last 562 00:32:49,340 --> 00:32:51,830 stretch of my trip... 563 00:32:51,860 --> 00:32:55,030 It certainly feels like we're heading towards jungle. 564 00:32:55,060 --> 00:32:59,190 ...where I'll finally get to see the iconic Machu Picchu citadel. 565 00:33:00,740 --> 00:33:02,030 It's absolutely stunning. 566 00:33:02,060 --> 00:33:04,510 I genuinely can't believe I'm here. 567 00:33:04,540 --> 00:33:06,390 Somebody pinch me. 568 00:33:48,460 --> 00:33:52,110 I'm on a railway adventure through Peru, and fast approaching 569 00:33:52,140 --> 00:33:55,710 the end of the line, and the climax of my journey, the town 570 00:33:55,740 --> 00:33:57,790 of Machu Picchu Pueblo. 571 00:33:57,820 --> 00:34:00,110 The landscape has changed dramatically. 572 00:34:00,140 --> 00:34:03,270 We're starting to see more rapids in the river here, and the 573 00:34:03,300 --> 00:34:07,190 vegetation has gone from just cactuses in sort of dry sandy 574 00:34:07,220 --> 00:34:09,110 conditions, to lush vegetation. 575 00:34:09,140 --> 00:34:11,750 It certainly feels like we're heading towards a jungle, 576 00:34:11,780 --> 00:34:13,470 almost like temperate rainforest, 577 00:34:13,500 --> 00:34:15,630 now, before you get to the jungle. 578 00:34:17,060 --> 00:34:19,150 Quite beautiful. 579 00:34:20,980 --> 00:34:22,750 There are no roads here. 580 00:34:22,780 --> 00:34:25,110 You walk or you take the train. 581 00:34:25,140 --> 00:34:29,590 Making it the perfect destination for my railway journey. 582 00:34:29,620 --> 00:34:31,430 And finally, we're here, 583 00:34:31,460 --> 00:34:33,910 Machu Picchu Pueblo. 584 00:34:33,940 --> 00:34:36,670 Amazingly, this place didn't exist before the railway came along. 585 00:34:36,700 --> 00:34:39,750 It was built for somewhere for the railway workers to live. 586 00:34:39,780 --> 00:34:43,070 Now, the archaeological ruins were discovered at about the same 587 00:34:43,100 --> 00:34:45,550 time as this was built. 588 00:34:45,580 --> 00:34:48,350 But it wasn't built to come to the ruins. 589 00:34:48,380 --> 00:34:51,390 In fact, people only started using it to visit, some 590 00:34:51,420 --> 00:34:52,910 20 years later. 591 00:34:52,940 --> 00:34:55,310 Now, of course, it's almost exclusively people coming 592 00:34:55,340 --> 00:34:56,950 to see the archaeology. 593 00:34:56,980 --> 00:34:58,750 Let's have a look around. 594 00:35:00,980 --> 00:35:03,870 It's great to finally get to this town, just a few miles 595 00:35:03,900 --> 00:35:05,990 from the sacred ruins. 596 00:35:07,460 --> 00:35:11,190 But as I arrive, crowds of tourists are pouring in, too. 597 00:35:13,340 --> 00:35:17,990 1.5 million visitors come every year, and every day they leave 598 00:35:18,020 --> 00:35:20,950 behind more than five tonnes of rubbish. 599 00:35:22,940 --> 00:35:26,270 But I'm meeting hotel founder Jose Kettler, who's come 600 00:35:26,300 --> 00:35:28,430 up with an ingenious solution. 601 00:35:29,700 --> 00:35:32,190 So you have an extraordinary set-up here, 602 00:35:32,220 --> 00:35:34,110 because Machu Picchu, people 603 00:35:34,140 --> 00:35:36,790 come from all over the world, but they leave a lot of waste, 604 00:35:36,820 --> 00:35:40,070 whether it be plastic or cooking oil or food. 605 00:35:40,100 --> 00:35:42,550 Your stroke of genius was when you came up with - and I'm 606 00:35:42,580 --> 00:35:44,430 going to grab a handful of it here - 607 00:35:44,460 --> 00:35:46,830 is this - that you produce. 608 00:35:46,860 --> 00:35:50,430 Biochar? What's this... Carbon. 609 00:35:50,460 --> 00:35:53,070 It's, it has little, little holes. 610 00:35:53,100 --> 00:35:58,990 You combine it with the compost and they create the best 611 00:35:59,020 --> 00:36:02,830 land-recovery system that you can have. 612 00:36:05,540 --> 00:36:10,030 To make biochar, organic waste like vegetable scraps is baked 613 00:36:10,060 --> 00:36:13,870 at a high temperature, with no oxygen present, which turns 614 00:36:13,900 --> 00:36:15,790 it into a form of charcoal. 615 00:36:17,060 --> 00:36:20,070 It holds on to both nutrients and moisture. 616 00:36:20,100 --> 00:36:23,870 So when dug into soil, it boosts its fertility. 617 00:36:23,900 --> 00:36:25,550 Why did you decide to do this? 618 00:36:25,580 --> 00:36:27,870 Why were you the person that steps up and said, "I'm not 619 00:36:27,900 --> 00:36:29,430 "going to have this happen"? 620 00:36:29,460 --> 00:36:33,350 Let's say it's my vocation to be involved in things of nature, 621 00:36:33,380 --> 00:36:36,110 and let's say that it's my business. 622 00:36:36,140 --> 00:36:39,190 We have a couple of hotels here, 623 00:36:39,220 --> 00:36:42,910 so if this area has a bad name 624 00:36:42,940 --> 00:36:45,070 and tourism goes down, 625 00:36:45,100 --> 00:36:47,230 it's against my business. 626 00:36:50,420 --> 00:36:53,670 What was once a problem has enabled the creation 627 00:36:53,700 --> 00:36:56,470 of something quite beautiful. 628 00:36:56,500 --> 00:37:00,030 What we are doing here is we are recovering biodiversity. 629 00:37:03,300 --> 00:37:04,630 By digging 630 00:37:04,660 --> 00:37:08,870 biochar into the empty grassland surrounding Jose's hotel. 631 00:37:08,900 --> 00:37:11,550 The cloud forest here has been revived. 632 00:37:16,300 --> 00:37:19,670 It's the largest collection of native orchid species 633 00:37:19,700 --> 00:37:21,790 in their habitat in the world. 634 00:37:27,580 --> 00:37:31,790 This isn't the only conservation work happening in the area. 635 00:37:31,820 --> 00:37:35,430 A short walk away, I discover another project. 636 00:37:35,460 --> 00:37:37,950 Despite living in Spain for two years, 637 00:37:37,980 --> 00:37:40,470 I speak very little Spanish, but one of the few words I do know 638 00:37:40,500 --> 00:37:43,190 is mariposa, because my favourite bar was called the Mariposa Bar, 639 00:37:43,220 --> 00:37:45,310 and it means butterfly. 640 00:37:49,620 --> 00:37:53,790 This extraordinary butterfly house has been set up to conserve 641 00:37:53,820 --> 00:37:56,030 and protect hundreds of species. 642 00:37:58,100 --> 00:38:03,150 This is a breeding program me for 500 different butterflies, about 100 643 00:38:03,180 --> 00:38:05,710 of which are native to Machu Picchu. 644 00:38:09,860 --> 00:38:13,470 So this huge butterfly is an owl butterfly. 645 00:38:13,500 --> 00:38:16,590 And the reason is because - I don't know if you can see the markings there. 646 00:38:16,620 --> 00:38:18,670 There's one big eye on your side. 647 00:38:18,700 --> 00:38:21,430 There's a big eye on this side as well. 648 00:38:21,460 --> 00:38:27,270 And so when they open their wings, predators think it's an owl face. 649 00:38:27,300 --> 00:38:30,990 Just one of the many species of butterfly there is up here 650 00:38:31,020 --> 00:38:33,190 in the cloud forest. 651 00:38:33,220 --> 00:38:35,710 And the reason he's sitting on my hand is we cheated a little bit 652 00:38:35,740 --> 00:38:37,310 and put a bit of salt on there. 653 00:38:37,340 --> 00:38:38,710 They love salt. 654 00:38:39,940 --> 00:38:42,990 When this owl butterfly opens its wings, it's almost the 655 00:38:43,020 --> 00:38:44,510 size of a saucer. 656 00:38:44,540 --> 00:38:45,870 It's huge. 657 00:38:48,220 --> 00:38:52,870 Peru actually has 4,777 types of butterfly. 658 00:39:04,340 --> 00:39:09,510 When the butterflies reach adulthood, they return to the wild. 659 00:39:09,540 --> 00:39:11,110 Hasn't gone far, to be honest. 660 00:39:11,140 --> 00:39:13,390 It felt like - just cos I was there 661 00:39:13,420 --> 00:39:15,790 when you came out your chrysalis, I'm not your mum. 662 00:39:18,700 --> 00:39:20,390 Here we go, I think, probably, 663 00:39:20,420 --> 00:39:22,910 why don't we get you up in the tree as well? Where you're going 664 00:39:22,940 --> 00:39:24,230 to be safe. 665 00:39:27,460 --> 00:39:29,310 That's kind of magical. 666 00:39:29,340 --> 00:39:31,470 Yeah, that was kind of lovely. 667 00:39:42,860 --> 00:39:44,510 COCKEREL CROWS 668 00:39:48,260 --> 00:39:52,030 Next morning, I'm up at dawn to get the bus to the citadel, the star 669 00:39:52,060 --> 00:39:54,630 attraction of Machu Picchu. 670 00:39:56,260 --> 00:39:59,430 So it's 6:05, and there's a massive queue already formed for the buses 671 00:39:59,460 --> 00:40:00,950 that take you to Machu Picchu. 672 00:40:00,980 --> 00:40:04,230 This is a car-less town, so the only way you can get from here 673 00:40:04,260 --> 00:40:06,750 to Machu Picchu is to pick up the bus. 674 00:40:06,780 --> 00:40:09,030 It doesn't matter whether you're making a film 675 00:40:09,060 --> 00:40:12,110 or just here as a tourist, you all stand in the same queue 676 00:40:12,140 --> 00:40:15,110 and get on the first bus that comes along, which is going 677 00:40:15,140 --> 00:40:17,230 to be this one, I think. 678 00:40:24,300 --> 00:40:28,470 If you're wondering how the buses got to a town with no roads, even 679 00:40:28,500 --> 00:40:31,030 they were brought in by train. 680 00:40:33,700 --> 00:40:35,110 It's a bouncy old road, isn't it? 681 00:40:35,140 --> 00:40:36,590 Yeah. 682 00:40:36,620 --> 00:40:39,110 Where are you from? From France, from Paris. 683 00:40:39,140 --> 00:40:40,790 Ancl we made the Inca train. 684 00:40:40,820 --> 00:40:43,990 We walk during two clays to go to Machu Picchu, and that's a very, 685 00:40:44,020 --> 00:40:45,870 very good walk. 686 00:40:45,900 --> 00:40:48,670 Did you not see the train go by and think, "I wish I was on"? 687 00:40:48,700 --> 00:40:50,790 No! 688 00:40:52,060 --> 00:40:53,990 I'm - actually, now we're getting close, 689 00:40:54,020 --> 00:40:55,910 really excited to see the place. 690 00:41:07,860 --> 00:41:11,430 Having climbed the Andean mountains 691 00:41:11,460 --> 00:41:13,910 to a dizzying 7,000 feet, 692 00:41:13,940 --> 00:41:16,270 breaking through the mist is the 693 00:41:16,300 --> 00:41:18,470 Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. 694 00:41:21,740 --> 00:41:23,910 And what a spectacle it is. 695 00:41:25,220 --> 00:41:27,710 I've been wanting to come here since I was... 696 00:41:29,420 --> 00:41:32,470 ...maybe nine, ten years old. 697 00:41:32,500 --> 00:41:35,470 My father had a whole load of encyclopaedias that I used to 698 00:41:35,500 --> 00:41:38,470 page through, and I picked out Machu Picchu on hope that one day 699 00:41:38,500 --> 00:41:40,030 I would see it. 700 00:41:41,380 --> 00:41:43,030 It's absolutely stunning. 701 00:41:43,060 --> 00:41:46,310 I genuinely can't believe I'm here. 702 00:41:46,340 --> 00:41:48,750 Somebody pinch me...! 703 00:41:51,380 --> 00:41:53,470 It's just extraordinary. 704 00:42:03,700 --> 00:42:06,950 The citadel was built in the 15th century, and construction 705 00:42:06,980 --> 00:42:08,470 was no mean feat. 706 00:42:09,860 --> 00:42:12,910 It's thought to have taken thousands of labourers more than 707 00:42:12,940 --> 00:42:14,590 50 years to complete. 708 00:42:16,540 --> 00:42:17,870 So this is the main plaza, 709 00:42:17,900 --> 00:42:19,630 the priest's house over there. 710 00:42:19,660 --> 00:42:22,830 You've got the place where they tethered the sun, up there. 711 00:42:22,860 --> 00:42:25,150 Here's the room that represents the three worlds. 712 00:42:25,180 --> 00:42:27,710 The high, the middle, the low, known as the condor, the puma, 713 00:42:27,740 --> 00:42:29,230 and the snake. 714 00:42:29,260 --> 00:42:31,470 But for me, I don't care how nerdy it is, 715 00:42:31,500 --> 00:42:33,830 my favourite bit is the stonework in the corner. 716 00:42:33,860 --> 00:42:36,430 Look at the quality of the joining there! He-he! 717 00:42:39,060 --> 00:42:41,430 I got talking to Melbin - 718 00:42:41,460 --> 00:42:44,470 she's a tour guide and could tell me more about the life 719 00:42:44,500 --> 00:42:46,470 in this ancient city. 720 00:42:46,500 --> 00:42:50,830 This was a religious economical farming centre. 721 00:42:50,860 --> 00:42:52,070 OK. 722 00:42:52,100 --> 00:42:55,110 So did people stay here and live here permanently? 723 00:42:55,140 --> 00:42:58,470 This was a permanent city and it is calculated that between 724 00:42:58,500 --> 00:43:01,990 600 to 800 people lived here permanently. 725 00:43:02,020 --> 00:43:05,550 But this was an active city that had people coming and going, 726 00:43:05,580 --> 00:43:10,030 bringing stuff, bringing food, bringing salt, bringing supplies. 727 00:43:10,060 --> 00:43:13,550 So if the Incas chose this, is because there was something magical 728 00:43:13,580 --> 00:43:16,030 about the place. Take a look. 729 00:43:16,060 --> 00:43:19,430 This is a wedding between the nature and human being. 730 00:43:19,460 --> 00:43:22,830 Machu Picchu will be nothing without the landscape. 731 00:43:22,860 --> 00:43:26,470 Ancl the landscape will be nothing without Machu Picchu. 732 00:43:26,500 --> 00:43:28,150 This is like a deal. 733 00:43:28,180 --> 00:43:31,670 I love your enthusiasm and your love of the subject. 734 00:43:31,700 --> 00:43:33,590 Why does it mean so much to you? 735 00:43:33,620 --> 00:43:35,110 I'm descendant of Incas. 736 00:43:35,140 --> 00:43:37,310 I'm descendant of the Spanish as well. 737 00:43:37,340 --> 00:43:40,470 But my heart is Inca 100%, so I'm very proud of that. 738 00:43:45,100 --> 00:43:46,310 Melbin's right, 739 00:43:46,340 --> 00:43:49,110 you know, it's not just the city, it's the setting. 740 00:43:55,060 --> 00:43:58,750 Seeing this really is the ultimate prize after what's 741 00:43:58,780 --> 00:44:00,870 been an extraordinary trip. 742 00:44:08,420 --> 00:44:12,430 They say the journey is the destination, but if your final 743 00:44:12,460 --> 00:44:16,710 destination is this, the journey has got a lot to live up to. 744 00:44:18,340 --> 00:44:21,150 I've had some unforgettable experiences. 745 00:44:21,180 --> 00:44:23,670 I don't know what I had in my head, but it wasn't this. 746 00:44:23,700 --> 00:44:26,110 This is so much more amazing. 747 00:44:26,140 --> 00:44:28,150 That's ridiculously good. 748 00:44:28,180 --> 00:44:31,830 And learned so much about this country's fascinating history. 749 00:44:31,860 --> 00:44:34,070 I'm holding a piece of real artwork. 750 00:44:35,820 --> 00:44:39,830 I have to say, going by train across Peru, 751 00:44:39,860 --> 00:44:42,670 has been epic. I've loved every second of it. 752 00:45:08,260 --> 00:45:11,230 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 55756

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