All language subtitles for 09 - Stationary Timelapse Part I - Lightroom

All right. Now it's time to actually process our timelapse shot.

So, after you've downloaded the material,

we're going to go ahead and create two separate folders for the timelapse shot.

So, we did one for the motion control shot,

and then one for the stationary shot.

I think it's always great when you're doing

any kind of project to have a really nice file system.

So, what I'm going do, we're going to create a separate folder for our timelapse shots.

We're going to go ahead and create one new folder for the first timelapse,

we're going call it Stationary.

We're going to create another folder for our motion control shot,

and call it Motion Control.

This is really going to help us out in the future when we're trying to figure

out what shot it is, and where it is.

So, we're going to go ahead and open up Stationary,

and then from our card,

we're just going to go ahead and drop in that information.

I've already got it labeled in here on the card as a street timelapse,

so I'm going to throw it in there.

It's already downloaded, so we have all of our raw imagery in there right now.

I'm going to do the same thing for our motion control shot.

There we go, it's in there.

So, the next step we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and open up Lightroom,

and inside of Lightroom,

we're going to import each of these sequences,

and we're going to edit them individually.

That way that we can actually take and manipulate

the image and put the feel or style on the picture.

Open up the folder project that we had,

I'm just going to go ahead and drag and drop.

First one's going to be Stationary just right into the main library.

It's going to open up all of the images here.

Then what I'm going to do is go ahead and hit Import.

That's going to take all my images and lay them out for me in a nice grid layout.

Then once this has completed loading,

you can see in the top left-hand corner,

we'll go ahead and start editing the images.

Some of the things you can notice right off the back is the fact it looks a little dark.

That's one thing that I really wanted to do, actually,

when we were shooting is underexpose it,

because if you notice the sky isn't overexposed, it's properly exposed.

So, when we come into these images,

I'm going to go ahead and bring up all of that information that's in the shadows,

and really just make the image pop.

So, it is going to be night and day between the images.

So, I've already pre-processed some of the shots and exported them,

but I'm going to go ahead and show you what it looks like beforehand,

and we're going to edit that photo,

and then apply it to everything else.

So, here's our original image right here. This is what we shot.

As you take a look at it you can be like, wow,

the shadows are little dark,

it just doesn't look that great.

So, what we're going to do is we're going go ahead over

to the basic menu system over here,

and we're just going to play with the highlights,

the shadows, the blacks,

the exposure, and the contrast.

So, I'm going to immediately increase the shadows quite a bit.

You're going to see almost instantly the image takes a new shape.

We're going to go ahead and bring down the highlights,

which is going to add more detail to the sky,

and I'm going to leave a little room on the end there,

because what's going to happen is I'm going to increase

the exposure as it's going to make it a little more vibrant.

So, when you're looking at your shot, you can look up at your histogram up here and

actually see where the levels are for your exposure,

your shadows, your mid-tones, and your highlights.

What you want to do is you want to make sure that

everything's pretty much even across the board.

That's going to give you a really nice robust image,

whereas I'm going to increase the exposure and you're going to notice

that changing, just a little bit.

When I do that,

let me take a look at the image, it just looks so much better.

Then I'm going go ahead and adjust the white balance,

play around with my white a little bit,

add my blacks, and right there,

we've got a pretty great finished product.

Here's the before, and here's the after.

So, it's a pretty stark contrast, it's really nice.

It's amazing what you can do with these cameras.

Especially using a camera that has a really high dynamic range,

something like a Sony or a Nikon both boast upwards of 14 stops or dynamic range.

Unfortunately, Canon only does about 11 stops.

But, if you're in the 14 stop range,

you can do so much more with your imagery when you shoot raw,

and this is just a prime example of that.

So, the next step from here is we're going to go ahead,

I'm going to select one image,

and then select all.

Then I'm going to go ahead and hit Sync right over here on the right hand side.

What this is going to do is it's actually going to apply all of

these presets that we've applied to this one image across the board,

under all of your other images.

So, when I hit that,

it's going to go ahead and start doing all the setting changes,

and then if we come back up to our library,

we'll notice that all of the images are now taking

shape and taking all of the information that was from that one timelapse shot,

and putting it across the board in every other timelapse shot.

So, our next step from here is we're going to be doing an export.

In the export, you're going to go ahead and Select All again,

it's probably already selected all,

but we're going to go ahead and right-click.

Go down to export.

Click on export. What I like to do is make sure that the sub-folder is always checked.

So, if it's not checked, go ahead and check it,

and then you're going to title this as Edited,

or sometimes you can do Processed, whatever works for you,

whatever you're going to understand that is the the edited shot.

So, maybe we'll try processed.

So, I'm going to try processed here,

and it's just going to create a new folder.

All of the images that we're making out of this folder,

or out of this image,

or out of these images, are going to be dropped into this folder.

You want to rename.

I prefer to do the custom name plus sequence,

so we'll call this Street Level,

and we'll start off with one,

which means it's going to increase the number from one up to 400 basically.

Then down on our JPEG setting,

make sure that JPEG's selected.

We're only going to be doing a 1080p shot out of this,

so we don't need anything high-quality.

If you're shooting for clients,

you may want to select TIFF,

or even go with a DNG,

but for this exercise,

we're just going to do JPEG.

Then turn the quality up to about an 85.

All right. Check your other settings,

make sure the resolution is at 240 to 300,

240 is fine for what we want to do.

Then from here, we go ahead and specify our folder,

say same folder as original photo,

and that's going to plop it into the same folder that we just did.

You're going to hit Export,

and now's the waiting game.

So, this can take some time depending on how many shots you have,

and the size and resolution of your camera,

this could take anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours,

to four hours, it's really all based on the kind of hardware that you're using.

I really recommend using a system that has at least 16 to 32 gigabytes of RAM.

The more RAM you have or the faster SSD hard drives you have,

the faster this process is going to go.

I'd also recommend at least a quad core processor,

if you have anything above that,

you should be fine, and it should go relatively quickly.

But, for the most part, just sit back,

enjoy and then we'll move on to the next part,

which is going to be loading it up into After Effects,

and turning it in from a bunch of images into a piece of footage.

So, we'll let that render,

and we'll get back to it.