All language subtitles for Remarkable.Places.To.Eat.S04E05.1080p.WEB.H264-CBFM

Experiencing great food is one of

the best things about visiting
a new city.

But how can you be sure that you
find the real gems?

I'm a seasoned professional
and even for me,

it's difficult to find amazing
places to eat.

So I've asked six

of Britain's most celebrated chefs
and foodies...

Let's go.
Woohoo.

..To open up their little black
books

and take me to their all-time
favourite places to eat.

Welcome to Puglia.

We must have a taste of that.
We must.

You're so excited.
I am.

Together,
we'll travel to some of

the world's most exciting
food destinations.

This place is such a hidden
gem.

It's a floating restaurant.

But we won't be just eating.

Who's next? What would you
like, sir?

We will be joining
the people behind the scenes.

No, no, no, no.

You do another one like that,
you're sacked.

And rolling up our sleeves.

Look at this.
We've got a treasure.

To find out exactly how they deliver
perfect service.

This is like a military operation.
On the beach.

World-class food.

I've never had a meal like this in
my life. I feel almost emotional.

And an experience you'll
never forget.

For me this is a ten out of ten.

Ten out of ten from Fred.

Wow.

This week I'm in Burgundy,
France's rural heartland.

Look at that countryside,
Michael. Look at that.

Amazing.
This is France. This is France.

Superb.

My guide is one of
the UK's leading chefs

and restaurateurs, Michael Caines.

Burgundy's renowned for its wine.

But for me it's all about
the food. In fact,

I'd go as far as to say that you get

the best food in France here
in Burgundy.

Michael has run the Michelin-starred
Lympstone Manor in Devon since 2017.

But as a young man,
he learned his trade right here.

France is amazing for food

and every region is just incredible.

So how can you say that Burgundy's
the best?

When you think about it,

Burgundy is home to some of

the great classics

of French cuisine.
Boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin.

Wow.

Escargots. Frogs' legs.
I mean not just that,

it was home to some of
the most famous French chefs ever.

With Dijon, its capital city,

a three hour drive from Paris,

Burgundy sits in
the central eastern area of France.

And for our first bite,

Michael has brought me to
the small town of Saulieu.

Long a gastronomic stopover
for travellers heading south.

It's where Michael learned his craft
under one of France's great chefs.

This is where I came 30 years ago
for work

for Bernard Loiseau
and he'd just got his third star

and you can imagine,

famous for light cuisine

and using all of
the produce from Burgundy.

I mean, what a legend of a chef.

At the time I remember he was one of
the best,

if not the best,
in France and around the world.

You know what?
I can't wait to eat there, Michael.

Ah, it's going to be incredible.

La Cote d'Or is one of France's
gastronomic jewels.

Well, here we are.
So proud to be here.

In 1991, under the late,
great Bernard Loiseau,

it became one of
the first restaurants ever

to win three Michelin stars,

instantly becoming
an essential destination.

Michael, it looks so classic,
so traditional.

It looks so French. I tell you what,

it's giving me
goose bumps. Goose bumps.

Today, La Cote d'Or sits within
an hotel named after

the great chef who forged
its reputation.

Shall we go and taste Burgundy?
Let's go.

I mean, look at this place.

This is like a temple
of gastronomy.

Exactly. Isn't it? Exactly, it is.

Wow. Incredible.
It's quite emotional coming back.

I feel connected to Burgundy,

I feel a special connection
to this house

and I'm glad to be able to share
this experience with you, Fred.

It's my first time.

The hushed tones of
the dining room tell me this is

a restaurant which has
earned respect.

Ah, merci. Ah, right.

And, please, for you.
Merci.

The kitchen is very
different. Today,

it is headed by Bernard's protege

and Michael's old friend
Patrick Bertrand.

He and his 19 strong brigade are

busy ensuring every detail is
finished to

the highest Michelin standards.

I love the fact that they're proud

to present where their food
is from.

This is what France is about,
this is about gastronomy,

it's about provenance,
about produce.

You know what, Michael,
it all looks delicious.

I tell you what,
I'm going to be in your hands.

You decide. Because I could have
literally every single dish on this
menu.

Well, OK, I think we should start
with the steamed morels with

the wild herbs from the Morvan.
So here in

Burgundy,
Morvan is like a national park.

And then perhaps you should try
the beef

and I'll try the pike perch,
the sandre,

which is a fresh water fish which is
unique from this area

with this lovely red wine sauce.

I'm salivating. Yeah, perfect.

Morel mushrooms are
a perfect example of

the Cote d'Or core philosophy.

Devotion to the surrounding land
and its true flavours.

Oh, my God,
look at this portion of morels.

Wow.

Please enjoy a good
lunch, messieurs.

Thank you.
Merci.

To start,

steamed morels from
the forests of the Morvan served

with wild herbs
and jus flavoured with yellow wine.

A sight to stir the heart.

You're going to cry, aren't you?
You're going to cry.

You're going to cry. Come on,
it's OK. It's just morel mushrooms.

THEY LAUGH

Well, there's lots of reasons
to be emotional.

The memory of Bernard, the
friendship with Patrick.

But also this reconnection
of why I became

so passionate about food
and regionality.

When I remember, you know,

I left this place not long after
I had my accident.

I lost my arm and I came back

and they welcomed me like
I was family.

And so, you know,

it's a very special place.
So, yeah, we must eat.

Let's go.

I mean this is a special mushroom,
morel, isn't it?

Mm hmm, it is.

Mm.
Wow.

It's so meaty. Mm.

That's intense.

What I love about morels is that
they are so different,

so distinctive and so seasonal.

They are stuffed with
a morel stuffing

and with the egg yolk,

it just rounds it all off
and it makes it so balanced

and so moreish.

You just eat one
and you want another one

and another one and another one.
It's just very addictive.

But I love the fact that it,

that you would have thought this has
got meat in it

but it's just the intensity of

the mushroom that has been poached.
Really delicious.

And you can really taste that
they are fresh

because they are just cooked
to perfection.

Mm.
You know, it's not too dry,

not too moist.
It's just the perfect level.

You know, above all what I love is
the simplicity

and the confidence
of making this dish so elevated

and so flavoursome.

That for me is what Michelin-starred
cooking is all about.

Right. It's coming.

Wow.

Look at that.

This is the pike perch cooked on
the skin.

And the famous red wine sauce.
And for you monsieur,

this is the Charolles beef.
This is

the beef sauce with brown mustard
and black tea.

For the mains,

Michael has ordered an homage
to Burgundy.

Local Charolles beef
with potatoes three ways

and a mustard sauce.
And pike perch fresh from the lakes,

pan fried on its skin with
a red wine sauce,

fondue and crispy shallots.

Ah, just that smell just takes me
back to my youth.

The presentation also has moved on.

I can see Patrick's touches and the,

the attention to detail

but I just can't wait
to taste this.

I mean, look at the beef,
how marbled it is.

Look at the fat going through it.

Oh. Mm. Wow. Mm.

So, Fred,
what do you think of that beef?

It's so tender, so tasty,
so juicy.

And you can just taste that fat
that's going through

because it's just melting in your
mouth. But it's just a little bit.

Mm. And the sauce moutard?

Oh. So intense and yet very subtle.

Mm.

This is a beautiful sauce.
It's so unctuous,

it's so rich.

And you can taste the mustard
but it's not overpowering,

it's very light and very subtle.
This is to die for.

I mean, here in France the sauces
are everything.

I just love the simplicity
of this dish.

This fish, beautifully cooked, skin
side down,

nice and crispy.

The shallots caramelised

and the intensity of
the red wine reduction.

And I've just got to have more.
I mean,

this potato emulsion with
the angel hair is so moreish.

So moreish. But when you think that,

you know, the black on the top
is actually the

skin of the potatoes that's
been grated

because they have used every single
part of

the potato here. And, Michael,

what about this potato galette?
I mean this is

a staple of French cuisine,
this is such a classic.

And very, very,

very traditional
but so well executed.

Yeah. And it's just the perfect
accompaniment to the beef.

Yeah.
Which actually, there's no more!

For our two courses we paid

a total of just over 400 euros,
which is serious money.

But at an iconic restaurant
like this,

it's a once in a
lifetime experience.

I mean, it's simple but it's
simply excellent.

Thing is,
when you talk about excellence,

here it has a meaning.

I feel so proud to be French

because this is what
France is about.

You know,
I've got a soft spot for mustard.

My mum does the best rabbit with
a mustard sauce

so I want to see how
they incorporate

the mustard into that sauce.
That's what I want to learn.

I cannot wait to get back into
the kitchen.

Actually I'm feeling quite emotional
about the whole thing.

Don't worry,
I've got handkerchiefs!

This week,
I'm in Burgundy

with acclaimed UK chef,
Michael Caines.

Michael, tell me, are we lost?
I mean, where are we going?

Trust me, Fred.

"Trust me?!"
We've been driving for one hour.

I know, it feels like we're never
going to get there.

Michael spent time in Burgundy as
a young chef and today,

he's taking me into the sticks,
southwest of Dijon,

in search of classic French
country cooking.

We're going to this place which is
all about rustic cooking.

A chef that turns his back
on gastronomy.

It's all about from the gate to
the plate,

from the farm to the fork.

He's passionate about poultry
and all he serves is lunch.

But it is classic rustic cooking in
the heart of Burgundy.

I love rustic cooking
because for me,

it's how I was brought up. You know,

it takes me back
to my grandmother's kitchen.

She used to do the best
roast chicken,

beautiful roast potatoes
and I just can't wait to go there.

And I have to say,

your driving has started
to become as rustic as his cooking!

Since opening in 2002,

Ferme de la Ruchotte has built up
a reputation

for country dining at its very best.

Chef and owner,

Frederic Menager was

a rising star in Paris' most
renowned kitchens,

but gave it all up to open
a rustic restaurant on a farm,

showcasing home-grown vegetables

and his own hand-reared
heritage chickens.

Ah, this is charming, isn't it?

Beautiful. Beautiful.
What an incredible place.

I love the fact that it's
so rustic.

With Frederic busy preparing for
the lunch service,

Steve, farmer and chief
chicken wrangler,

is going to get us busy on
the farm.

Oh, look,
I'm excited I'm in a tractor.

I'm 51 years old
and I'm excited about it!

Poultry is a real passion here

and rather than being cooped up,

the birds are free to enjoy
the spacious surroundings.

Look at this natural habitat.

I mean, you just don't see chickens
being reared like this.

This is quite incredible.
I mean, look where they live.

And how many do you have here?

With the babies, we have,
like, 3,000.

Wow. Sometimes more,
sometimes less.

But we've got to feed them,
yeah? And get some eggs.

All right, let's go.
Come on, then.

Steve, I have never seen
a farm like this in my life.

Yeah, really? This is unique, this
is so special. It is.

In France,
we have the biggest cocks.

You are sometimes also
the biggest cocks!

Oh, wow, look at this.
This is so natural.

Just think, they've got the shade.

Yeah, they actually sleep in the
trees...

Wow. ..during the night.
They're pretty free.

That's one of our problems
because if you

want to catch them,
you have to run fast.

It's not just their free roaming
lifestyle that catches

the eye here.

These are rare breed heritage
chickens, slowly raised by hand.

How long do they take to grow?

Actually it could take like,
six months or less.

In England, a battery hen is
a month or so.

And then we wonder why they have
no flavour.

Here, living on this land,
having this lovely lifestyle,

it's going to obviously make
the chicken taste so much better.

The farm's pride

and joy are the legendary rare breed
La Barbezieux.

These huge black chickens, prized

for their rich flavour, are
notoriously hard to rear

and had virtually disappeared.

So, Steve, tell us about these
birds. I've not seen them before.

Yeah, so actually this is
the Barbezieux

and Frederic had to revive them
with a vet.

And it took like,
almost a year to make it revive.

We're pretty proud about it
because it's a good meat,

good eggs
and they're beautiful.

OK, shall we collect some eggs?
Yeah, of course.

Hello. Ow!

THEY LAUGH

Let me do it. Come on.

Courageous.

Oh. You've got to have
the technique.

Oh la la.

Out here on the farm,

it's easy to forget the cares of
the world.

But of course
Michael has brought us here

because of its reputation for
the best country cooking.

So Steve, tell me, what are we going
to have for lunch today?

Pintade.
Guinea fowl.

Rarely cooked in the UK,
guinea fowl,

or pintade,
are really celebrated in

France as they are leaner
than chicken,

giving them great texture
and taste.

So this guinea fowl is originated
from North Africa

but I found it really interesting
that you've got them in

with chickens here.

Yeah, because actually
the pintade help

the baby chicken
to learn pretty faster how to eat,

how to drink. Without them, like,
it could take long time.

So it's the perfect symbiosis,
you know,

between the farmer and nature.

But when these birds are ready
to be eaten,

how do you select what we eat?

Well, we just...
It's just a feeling about the legs,

the chest and everything.
We have to

care about it. To carry it like
this and say,

"OK, this one is good." Yeah.
"This one is perfect."

So it's perfect for us,
so it's perfect for the restaurant.

This is so natural, isn't it?

Because it's not forcing nature,
you're just...

It's just about taking the time.

Time is the most precious
commodity in the world

because once given,
it can be never taken back.

So, Robuchon,
a chef that I worked for,

used to say to me if you take
the life of

an animal then you
need to respect it.

Yeah. So profound.
And I like that. Give me a hug.

I like that. Very nice.
Very, very nice.

Can I get one?

Come here, group hug, then!

We love a threesome!

It takes time and painstaking
dedication to raise

and protect these wonderful birds.

So joining Frederic in the kitchen,

I'm curious to know what lies behind
such devotion.

So where did this passion
for chicken come from?

What a beautiful way of saying it.

To turn his love
of birds into unforgettable lunches,

after hanging the meat for up
to five weeks,

Frederic stuffs them with lemon,

rosemary and thyme
and salts them for 24 hours.

This keeps the meat juicy
and helps brown the skin.

Any special kind
of butter here?

OK.

Swathed in the finest butter,

Frederic roasts
the guinea fowl on a high heat

for 30 minutes,

then gradually lowers
the intensity.

So what have we got here?

Cos this is incredible,
isn't it?

I mean, look at that.
It is making a stock in front

of us. Sorry, Fred,
we have to taste it.

What is in here, Freddy?

You know what I love about this?
It's just a chicken,

a bit of shallot, a bit of garlic,
the herbs and water.

You know, there's no wine,
there's nothing fancy here. Water.

Simplicity,

connection to the land
and respect for the product.

These are the watch words at
Ferme de la Ruchotte.

There is just one thing
I can't get my head around.

Freddy, tell me where does

the skull come from?
You love rock and roll, do you?

Ah, OK,
so what's your favourite band then?

Led Zeppelin.
Led Zeppelin?

So Frederic's got a stairway
to heaven.

But here in the kitchen,

it's all about earthly pleasures.

Cherished produce cooked
perfectly in

the long tradition
of rural French cuisine.

Our starter of the roasted guinea
fowl with Swiss chard,

turnip and beetroot.

The set menu here is five courses
for 65 euros

and there is no choice.

What you get is what
Frederic decides to cook,

fresh from the farm that day.
And with only 40 covers,

booking ahead is essential.

You can sit here.
Merci.

Ah, lovely.

Wow. Love it. No fuss. So simple.

BIRDS CHEEP

Michael, listen to the soundtrack
of our lunch. It's so peaceful.

Yeah, it is stunning.

You have the perfect eggs
with white asparagus.

We've asked for just two courses

and our first is egg parfait

with white asparagus
and a green jus.

Look at that.

Beautiful, isn't it? And these eggs,
these are the eggs that we went
to get this morning.

Mm, they're going to taste so much
better because I picked them.

You picked them, I got pecked!

Oh, wow. That poached egg,
look at that.

These asparagus are lovely,

they are cooked to perfection
and slightly crunchy.

And the taste is so incredible.

Mm. A little caramelisation on that
asparagus just takes it to

a new level. Delicious.

This is what farm
to fork's all about.

Healthy,

nutritional and delicious food.
It's absolutely fantastic.

But there's another advantage.
As a chef,

I'm sure you've thought about that.

You are growing it yourself.

You're not even buying it from
the farmer.

No. You are the farmer
and you are the chef.

And this is your farm where
you're cooking.

Ah, merci, Fred. Wow.
Wow.

For our main,

Frederic has brought us this exact
patch of Burgundy on

a plate.
Roast guinea fowl with chard,

turnip and beetroot.

French country cooking at its very
best. Oh.

I mean, what smell.
Yeah.

I mean, if you go down and smell,

everything smells like you imagine
it to be.

I mean these beetroots are
just incredible.

Intense.
Oh. Magnifique. Beautiful, isn't it?

I like the fact that this animal
has been given

a lovely life

and has created something that's
really enjoyable.

You know, in this wonderful,
authentic place.

And such a great thing to see.

Why do you need 20 different choices

for your main course?
You're having chicken.

Yeah. That's it.

That's right. But this is the best
chicken that you can have.

I'm in Burgundy,
the gastronomic heart of France,

with chef Michael Caines, whose
glittering career was shaped

by his time here 30 years ago.

Can we open the sunroof?

Oh, yeah, why not?

Woo-hoo!

We're free!

The liberty.

Today, we are heading back
to La Cote d'Or,

where Michael trained
as a young chef.

I can't wait to go behind
the scenes at one of

the most legendary restaurants
in the whole of France.

Fred, I'm so excited.

I've not been in this kitchen
for 30 years.

What a trip down memory lane,
isn't it?

I know, but it's all changed.
I don't really know where I'm going.

Apparently you've gotta go through
this door here.

Are you gonna find your way?
Let's hope so.

Like Michael, head chef Patrick
Bertron arrived here as a young man.

Together, they were mentored
by the great Bernard Loiseau,

who had pioneered a lighter style
of French cooking

celebrating the produce of Burgundy.

Wow, this is where I used
to work, just as I remember.

I used to work here.

And this is Patrick.

Patrick.

30 years.

Patrick's kitchen is run on
the classic brigade system,

broken down into stations
where each chef is responsible

for one element of the food,

to ensure everything is cooked
to impeccable standards.

It's like we're in
the movie Ratatouille, you know?

I know, I'm... I feel like Remy.

I love the way he said that,
"We're gonna do the rest." Yeah.

The famous Burgundy Charolles beef

takes pride of place on
the menu here and was exquisite,

so I can't wait to find out how Chef
Louis-Philippe Vigilant prepares it.

What I want to know is,
what's the difference between

Charolais and Charolles?

You can have Charolais
everywhere in Burgundy.

OK. But Charolles,
it's a small village.

The meat is different.

We have fat on the meat.

OK.

So that's the difference?

The Charolles has got the fat
that's going through the meat...

Yeah. ..while the Charolais,
you don't have that? No.

La Cote d'Or's Charolles
beef is dry-aged,

hanging for up to two months,

which gives it its rich colour.

So now we will slice...the meat.

OK.

And look at that beef.

Look at the fat going through
the meat.

This is what makes it so special
because when the meat cooks,

it melts, and it makes it
even more tender than it is.

Wow.

So what did you put here?
Just a tiny bit of oil, right?

The duck fat. Duck fat?

Yes, yes. Wow, duck fat.

We use duck fat, yes. Duck fat.

I mean, this is very unusual.

Duck fat. I did not expect that.

Because in the south of France,
you always use olive oil. Right.

And in the north of France you
use lots of butter. Mm-hm.

And the middle of France,
you use the fat from a duck.

It's a long time, I haven't
seen beef cooked in duck fat.

I mean, this very special.

The flavour it gives.

Yes.

So how long do you cook the beef for?

Five minutes.

And so, how are you
gonna cook it now?

You're gonna cook it rare, right?

Yes. It's more juicy,
more tender, yes.

So you put garlic and thyme...

Yes. ..just like that?

So butter now? Yes.

Look at how he's basting
the beef there

with all the fat, all the butter.

And look at the colour.

It's... I mean, look at that colour.

You know, Louis Philippe, what
I love about what you showed me

is how simple it is.

First of all, you get the best
beef, the best duck fat,

a little bit of thyme, a little bit
of garlic, touch of butter,

and here you are, and it's ready.

Yes. So simple, so easy.

Yes, the DNA of the cooking
of Bernard Loiseau.

You have to respect the product.

It's so simple but you have
to know what you're doing.

Yes.

The perfect Burgundy beef
is elevated even further

with Patrick's sublime mustard sauce.

So this is all about deglazing that
lovely flavour.

Yeah.

By using water instead
of wine to deglaze the pan,

Patrick ensures it's the flavour of

the product which ends up
on the plate.

Look how rich this jus is. Exactly.

Next, Patrick uses two types
of mustard -

a traditional Dijon., and a special
Bernard Loiseau variety.

Wow.

OK, why the tea?

Ah, yeah.

Every little bit
of sauce matters here.

But what is Picasso doing now?

What are you doing, Picasso?

He's making sure he's deglazing
with the minimum amount of water.

He doesn't wanna dilute that again,

now he's got it to the right
essence of what he wants.

Look at that.

Look at the mustard sauce.

Wow.

This is an homage
to Bernard Loiseau.

This is Patrick's take
on that sauce.

He's evolved it using the mustard
and using the tea and the step,

and it's giving a depth
of flavour in the sauce.

Another, if you like, dynamic
that wasn't there before. Yes.

You know, being in this kitchen here
with Patrick really makes me proud

to be French cos it reminds me
of where I come from

and this is what it's about.

And cue La Marseillaise.

# Allons enfants de la Patrie... #

Every element that goes onto
the plate here

shows commitment to
the finest local produce.

And for this delicious sauce,
that means mustard.

So leaving Michael
and Patrick to catch up,

I'm heading to the south of the
region to meet Marc Desarmenien,

La Cote d'Or's chosen mustard master.

When people think about Burgundy,

essentially, they think about
three things -

wine, food, and Dijon mustard -
don't they?

Yeah. But do you know, Dijon is not
exclusively produced in Burgundy?

It's produced also in
many cities in the world.

What? Yes, really.

You can make Dijon mustard
anywhere in the world?

Anywhere in the world.

Yes, it's true.

Dijon mustard is only a recipe

with no protected
geographic designation.

So it's a privilege to be immersed
in its authentic homeland.

This is mustard, and you can see
you have inside the seeds.

Now it's green seeds,
but with maturation it will

go to brown colour.

You need six weeks
to mature the seeds.

We are the only one company
to use 100%

of seeds coming from
our region, from Burgundy.

I mean, no wonder why
Bernard Loiseau uses you,

because you're the perfect partner.

That's what it's about, you know,
it's about quality and provenance.

The Fallot factory is in
the nearby city of Beaune

and was first acquired by
the family in 1928

by Marc's maternal grandfather.

It's now one of Burgundy's
last remaining

independent producers of mustard.

This is where the magic happens.

Yes, it's true.

It is the oldest factory
of Dijon mustard in the world.

When I was growing up,
there was always Dijon mustard

on the dinner table,

so I can't wait to find out
how this French classic is made.

Wow, what a smell of mustard.

Yes. And you know,
I love this smell, you know.

That's mustard seeds. Right.

This one are coming only
from Burgundy, from France.

The smell is so strong it's going
into my eyes and I've started to cry.

Can you see that? I'm crying.

It's so strong.

I mean, you're not crying?

No, cos I am the grandson
of Edmond Fallot,

that's why I am not crying.

My God, this is so powerful.

So what is this machine?
This particular machine.

This one, we wash the seeds... OK.

..because it's very important
to have clean brown mustard seeds

to incorporate in the process.

So what's going in
from here to there?

Yes, you have the mixture
with the seeds and the liquid,

with vinegar, white wine, water,

all is mixed together.

Once the seeds, wine, and vinegar
are introduced to the vat,

they are ground together into a paste

which still contains
the seeds' outer husk.

That's what we call
wholegrain mustard.

And to have Dijon mustard, you have
remove the husk of the seeds

from the yellow paste.

OK. That's what we call Dijon.

Only when the husks have been
removed by sifting process

does Marc's mustard achieve
the desired taste and texture.

So now we are about
to try real Dijon mustard now?

Yes.

That's for you.

Mmm.

But it's warm.

Yes.

You know, it's fresh,
and after several minutes,

the strikes is coming in your mouth,

and it will become
very, very strong.

And... Delicious.

I tried Moutarde Fallot in this
beautiful sauce at Bernard Loiseau,

but to be here, behind the scenes,
and to see what's going on

is just incredible.

And I love how Patrick has worked
so closely with Marc

to develop special new varieties
of mustard for his menus.

Such care taken over
a single ingredient is

the hallmark of a great restaurant.

This is what it's about,
it's about quality,

it's about embracing your terroir.

What we have witnessed is something
I have never seen before.

It's legacy in action.

You can see where it started,

and you can see evolving
before your very eyes.

This is being in the Premier League
of restaurants and hotels.

You know, I was 21 the last time
I was in that kitchen.

As we get older we lose
some of the energy,

but I kind of regained it
in there today.

I could see that you were getting
emotional just as we were walking

into the restaurant, you know.

But, look, now we are outside
of the restaurant

in these beautiful gardens.

The birds are singing and it's
just so peaceful, so beautiful.

I mean, I was gonna say romantic
but you're not really my type.

THEY LAUGH

This week, I'm in Burgundy,
where my guide,

Michelin-starred restaurateur
Michael Caines,

trained as a young chef.

So Michael, tell me, I mean, you
spent quite a bit of time here,

how's your French?

Very good, actually. Very fluent.

But when I came I didn't speak any -
just pigeon French.

And it was very challenging
but, you know...

..couple of girlfriends, pillow
talk. You know how it is, Fred.

Ah, that's how you learned, yeah?

Yes. But girlfriendS.

Today, Michael is taking me back

to historic Beaune in search
of something sweet.

This small medieval city punches
well above its gastronomic weight,

with myriad restaurants serving
a population of under 25,000.

You know, the people here
are very discerning about food.

I mean, this is France, of course
they're discerning about food.

Of course, I know.

But I'm gonna take you to
an amazing patisserie.

You can't come to France
without visiting a patisserie.

And we're going to
a husband-and-wife team

where they make their
pastries every day.

And you're gonna have to do
some work.

Don't worry about that,
I'll show you my skills.

But, listen, I have been brought up
on French patisserie,

and I know my stuff,

so I can't wait to go there
and find out what they do.

Patisserie Fabien Berteau was
created by Fabien and Marie Berteau

after they returned home
from working abroad.

A past winner of the esteemed
French Pastry Chef of the Year,

this place has a reputation
for making some of

the most exquisite patisseries
available anywhere.

Ah, salut, Fabien, how are you?

Bonjour. Salut. Wow.

This is incredible.
Wow, look at this.

Oh, Fred, amazing. Look at that.

Ah. Incredible work.

I mean, they are making all
the French classics that I love.

It's like being a kid
in a sweet shop.

How long have you been open, Fabien?

Seven years now. OK. Wow.

We have got five pastry chefs.

Every day we come at five o'clock,
making fresh French food.

That's the quality we want,

and they're all passionate
about the work.

Every morning, Fabien and his
team arrive at the crack of dawn

to create 12 classic pastries.

Unlike so many other patisseries,

nothing is frozen or
made the night before.

And Fabien is a perfectionist.

Nothing escapes his watchful eye.

Do you want to try
the mille-feuille?

With the shop opening
in under an hour,

he wants to put us to work on one of
the pinnacles of French patisserie.

I show you one.
So this is puff pastry. Oui.

Now we use the vanilla cream.

Come on.

Mmm.

Voila.

Wow.

That's the best, man.

Well, if you eat everything then
we'll have nothing for the customer.

Most patisseries in
France use other kitchens

to supplement their produce.

Here, Fabien either makes or
supervises everything on site.

Mille-feuille is one of the all-time
classics of French patisserie,

but it is still his best-seller.

So making sure the quality stays
at the highest level is crucial.

Again.

Look how fast he's going. Yeah,
exactly. The faster, the better.

Yes. To get it out there.

And it's very delicate because
if you break this...

You see? Yeah. ..that's it.

That's it.

C'est ca va? Voila, parfait!

Michael, you're incredible.

Well, you know, I've still got it.

Well done, Michael.

TALKING OVER EACH OTHER

What I love about the mille-feuille
is that this is

quintessentially French.

This is as French as it gets.

We're still the same
generation by generation.

The only thing we change is
maybe the recipe which is

less sugar, less butter, but
the technique, it's the same.

While many new patisseries experiment
with different combinations,

Fabien insists on respecting
the old traditions.

Then, he piles on the quality by
using local seasonal ingredients

and carefully crafting
the perfect presentation.

Michael, look at this.

Look at this.

The birth of the mille-feuille.

If it's not look good,
we cannot sell, you know?

Luckily, chef Michael
has lost none of his flair.

FRED SPEAKS FRENCH

You've gotta be quick
on the finish.

Yeah.

Let me have a go, Michael.
Let me have a go.

As for moi?

Hmm, well...

LAUGHTER
Qu'est-ce que c'est?!

No finesse here.

While visual appeal is crucial,
for Fabien and Marie

taste is everything.

Which is why they insist on producing

a brand-new hand-made selection
of pastries every day.

So once it's gone, it's gone?

It's gone. Because everything
is fresh. Right.

They could make their lives so easy
and prepare everything in bulk,

but, no, this is France.

Absolument. This is what it's about.

Because in France,
dessert is really important.

So when you're invited,
you bring flower,

you bring wine,
and you bring dessert.

So they want something
really special.

With local expectations so high, the
precision of the display is vital.

I am being so careful.

These are so delicate.

I am taking a lot of care.

A lot of care.

What's the secrete behind
the display?

It's not a secret.

The first important thing,
um, matching the colour,

and here it's a traditional display.

It's important to show that we are
a traditional pastry shop.

Fabien and Marie have forged
a reputation

that is second to none in Burgundy.

So it's a privilege
to be part of the operation,

if only for one morning.

What a special moment,
to open the patisserie.

Wow.

So exciting, Marie, thank you.

Pleasure.

Our first customers. Bonjour.

Oh, Bonjour. Comment ca va?
Ca va? Oui, tres bien.

OK.

Bonjour. Bonjour.

These are the best pastry
that you can get.

This one here? Yeah.

Oh. It's like a work of art,
look at that.

Yeah.

I like to think I'm pretty good
at front of house,

but these pastries
don't need a hard sell.

Their artisan quality
does all the talking.

And you can share.

Yes, sir. We will.

Enjoy.

Thank you. Thank you so much.

After putting in a shift,
we've earned the chance

to make our own selections.

And at 4.50 euros or less
each, it's a steal.

Bonjour, monsieur.
Bonjour, Monsieur Caines.

I'd like very much to have one
of these beautiful macarons.

OK.

And, I think after we must
try the mille-feuilles.

And then finally, what would you
like? It's gotta be eclair.

Un eclair au chocolat.
Go on then. For sure.

That's, um...11.70.

Perfect. OK? Follow me.

The only thing left now is to join
the good citizens of Beaune

in the time-honoured pleasure
of savouring true,

traditional patisserie.

The best part of your day.
Yes, Marie.

Thank you so much.

My pleasure.

Merci, Marie. Bon appetit.
Merci. Merci.

For our delectation, Michael and I

have three signature French classics.

Mille-feuille...

..raspberry macaron...

..and I couldn't resist my
childhood favourite,

chocolate eclair.

I think we should start
with the mille-feuille.

Look how fresh this is. Look at that.

And the crunch of that biscuit.

Yes.

But you only get that when it's
super fresh. Yes, exactly.

If it was made the day before,
you wouldn't get that crunch.

Mmm.

This pastry is as perfect as it gets.

Mmm. Isn't it?

Delicate, crispy, intense.

And you can taste the butter.

It's round in your mouth,
it's...it's unctuous,

it's rich, and it's
so full of flavour.

It's packed with flavour.

And, you know, when you cook
the pastry to this degree,

if you're not careful
it can be bitter - amere.

But it's not,
it's absolutely perfect.

Now we need to try this mac-a-ron.

Wow.

But look how fresh it looks,
you know, when you have these

beautiful raspberries like this.

And not only do you have beautiful
raspberries but they

come from the local area. Exactly.

So it's about
the provenance once again.

And macaron is so famous.

Everybody knows them
all over the world.

And for good reason.

Because it is absolutely delicious.

And you've got
the crunch on the outside,

and you've got the softness inside,
mixed with the cream,

and the beautiful fruitiness
of the raspberry,

you're in heaven.

And, you know, that fruit really
does come through, doesn't it?

Lovely acidity.
And not so much sugar.

So you can actually let the fruit
flavour come through.

So many people make everything
so sweet these days.

But, actually, less is more.

Exactly.

Talking about less is more...

Now we're gonna have the eclair!

This is gonna be more, more, more.

MICHAEL LAUGHS

Well, this is your favourite.

What more does a man need?

You have an eclair...

..sun is shining. That's it.

You know what?
I was lost for words there.

I mean, the chocolate
is dark and rich. Mmm!

The pastry's so fine.

It's just so delicious.
Great choice.

Thank you.

I have to say you were very
impressive in the pastry.

Well, it's nice to know
I haven't lost my touch.

You've got a little bit
of work to do on yours.

THEY LAUGH

Burgundy has been one
amazing experience.

All of these places were new to me.

The food culture here
is second to none.

And it's a culture which spoke
to me across generations.

Michael, what a trip
down memory lane we've had.

I mean, you took
me straight back to my roots,

and I could feel
the Tricolour pounding in my chest.

I was feeling so proud throughout.

You know, Fred, you're so right.

But I think here in Burgundy,

they seem to take food
to the next level.

I mean, we've had fine dining,

rustic cooking, and incredible
patisseries here in Beaune.

For me, the most incredible
is that all

the people that we met here
embody the French spirit.

They embody the passion that
we have in France for food.

And what a concentration
of flavours we've had.

Ah!

The skills, tradition, and love
of local produce have made me

understand why Michael rates this
area as the best in all of France.

And I can't wait
to come back here soon again.

And we shared that together, Fred.

It's been very special
for me, as well.

And you know what?
I'm glad that you wanna come back

and visit this place cos I really
do think they do food

so well here in Burgundy.

Do you know what? I'm still hungry.

Shall we go and grab some
more food? Yeah.

Come on, let's go, man.

Next time, I'm in South Wales...

You are gonna be blown away.

Allons-y, Fred.
We are here. Woo-hoo.

..with chef Thomasina Miers...

It is totally delicious.

I'm connected to Wales
through a souffle.

How poetic is that?

..in a region where food
takes pride of place.

Oh!

A black truffle from Wales. Who knew?

Come on, I'm hungry.
Let's go, let's race, come on!

Subtitles by Red Bee Media