All language subtitles for Joanna.Lumleys.Spice.Trail.Adventure.S01E04.Zanzibar.and.Jordan.1080p.HDTV.H264-DARKFLiX

This is what
I've always dreamed of -

sailing on a dhow
off the coast of Zanzibar.

sailing on a dhow
off the coast of Zanzibar.

sailing on a dhow
off the coast of Zanzibar.

Surely, the most famous
of all the Spice Islands.

Surely, the most famous
of all the Spice Islands.

For centuries,
it's been the crossroads for trade

For centuries,
it's been the crossroads for trade

between Africa and Asia,
India and the Middle East.

between Africa and Asia,
India and the Middle East.

between Africa and Asia,
India and the Middle East.

'I'm on my most epic voyage.

'I'm on my most epic voyage.

'An exploration through the world's
greatest spice kingdoms.'

'An exploration through the world's
greatest spice kingdoms.'

'An exploration through the world's
greatest spice kingdoms.'

It's fantastic.

It's fantastic.

'The Spice Trail is more than
just a journey through the senses.'

'The Spice Trail is more than
just a journey through the senses.'

'The Spice Trail is more than
just a journey through the senses.'

This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."

This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."

'It's a story of exploration.'

'It's a story of exploration.'

This is kind of Queen of Sheba
travelling, really.

This is kind of Queen of Sheba
travelling, really.

'And of the human desire
to connect.'

'And of the human desire
to connect.'

THEY SHOUT
ENTHUSIASTICALLY

THEY SHOUT
ENTHUSIASTICALLY

'I started in the remote
treasure islands of Indonesia

'I started in the remote
treasure islands of Indonesia

'I started in the remote
treasure islands of Indonesia

'and unearthed the dark past
of the spice trade.'

'and unearthed the dark past
of the spice trade.'

History contains
some bloody secrets.

History contains
some bloody secrets.

'Witnessed the vitality
of the people in southern India.'

'Witnessed the vitality
of the people in southern India.'

Whew!

'Met the vanilla hustlers....'

So it's OK.

Know when to hold 'em,
know when to fold 'em.

'..of Madagascar.

'..of Madagascar.

'And this journey takes me to the
lost civilisation of Jordan...'

'And this journey takes me to the
lost civilisation of Jordan...'

Petra!

'..via the fabled island
of Zanzibar.'

'..via the fabled island
of Zanzibar.'

This might not last terribly long.

SHE LAUGHS

It's ridiculously childish,
I love it.

It's ridiculously childish,
I love it.

Join me on this last leg
of my Spice Trail Adventure.

Join me on this last leg
of my Spice Trail Adventure.

Join me on this last leg
of my Spice Trail Adventure.

Take it away, Cap'n.
Rig the mainsail.

Take it away, Cap'n.
Rig the mainsail.

Oh, the dhow's up.
That's great, thank you.

Oh, the dhow's up.
That's great, thank you.

MUSIC: 'Mupepe'
by Zap Mama

MUSIC: 'Mupepe'
by Zap Mama

'Zanzibar is known
as the Spice Island of Africa,

'Zanzibar is known
as the Spice Island of Africa,

'perfectly positioned
between Asia, Africa and Europe,

'perfectly positioned
between Asia, Africa and Europe,

'this small island became
the most important trading hub

'this small island became
the most important trading hub

'on the Spice Trail.

'Arab merchants arrived
in the first century AD,

'Arab merchants arrived
in the first century AD,

'some of the earliest sailors
able to cross the open seas

'some of the earliest sailors
able to cross the open seas

'with their newly invented dhows
and knowledge of astronomy.'

'with their newly invented dhows
and knowledge of astronomy.'

'with their newly invented dhows
and knowledge of astronomy.'

I'm longing to ask Captain Haji
whether he sails by the stars,

I'm longing to ask Captain Haji
whether he sails by the stars,

I'm longing to ask Captain Haji
whether he sails by the stars,

or whether he has a compass,
or how does he sail now?

or whether he has a compass,
or how does he sail now?

How does he navigate?

'The triangular sail
was a breakthrough.

'The triangular sail
was a breakthrough.

'It gave sailors enough control to
take advantage of the monsoon winds,

'It gave sailors enough control to
take advantage of the monsoon winds,

'It gave sailors enough control to
take advantage of the monsoon winds,

'bringing spices across the
Indian Ocean for the first time.'

'bringing spices across the
Indian Ocean for the first time.'

'bringing spices across the
Indian Ocean for the first time.'

And has he been in bad storms?
Has he ever capsized?

And has he been in bad storms?
Has he ever capsized?

And has he been in bad storms?
Has he ever capsized?

'The ships opened Zanzibar
to the world,

'The ships opened Zanzibar
to the world,

'and they're still built today
in Nungwi on the north coast.'

'and they're still built today
in Nungwi on the north coast.'

Hiya, baby.

Hiya, baby.

I am so thrilled to have seen dhows,
you know.

I am so thrilled to have seen dhows,
you know.

At home, in my study, I've got
a painting of dhows in the Red Sea.

At home, in my study, I've got
a painting of dhows in the Red Sea.

At home, in my study, I've got
a painting of dhows in the Red Sea.

I just adore them.
They're extraordinary.

I just adore them.
They're extraordinary.

For hundreds of hundreds of years,
they've been plying the trade.

For hundreds of hundreds of years,
they've been plying the trade.

And beautiful lines,
that extraordinary,

And beautiful lines,
that extraordinary,

never-to-be-forgotten
triangular sail.

never-to-be-forgotten
triangular sail.

It's magic, and I've been on a dhow.

It's magic, and I've been on a dhow.

I can go home
and tell that to my painting.

I can go home
and tell that to my painting.

This is...
I'm losing my mind slightly.

Can you see?
So early on, and to meet a dhow.

Can you see?
So early on, and to meet a dhow.

I mean, can life get better?

'Spice traders
from all across the world

'Spice traders
from all across the world

'started arriving in Zanzibar,

'started arriving in Zanzibar,

'turning Stone Town into one of the
wealthiest cities in East Africa.'

'turning Stone Town into one of the
wealthiest cities in East Africa.'

'turning Stone Town into one of the
wealthiest cities in East Africa.'

Can you imagine what it was like
making landfall,

Can you imagine what it was like
making landfall,

coming across the great seas?

You were either coming down from
Arabia or from India or from Asia.

You were either coming down from
Arabia or from India or from Asia.

You could smell the spices
as you came closer.

You could smell the spices
as you came closer.

This was called
the Island of Cloves.

And remember, in those days,
sailors ruled the world.

And remember, in those days,
sailors ruled the world.

There were no telecommunications.

This was the way that you took
these great trades and spices

This was the way that you took
these great trades and spices

and ideas across the world.

These were the explorers,
these were the adventurers.

These were the explorers,
these were the adventurers.

These were the captains
of the universe. Thrilling.

These were the captains
of the universe. Thrilling.

God, I love ports.

God, I love ports.

I love the sea -

I'm a bit afraid of it,
but I love it.

'Spices made the city so successful
that everyone wanted a piece of it.

'Spices made the city so successful
that everyone wanted a piece of it.

'Spices made the city so successful
that everyone wanted a piece of it.

'Over the centuries,
it's been ruled by the Arabs,

'Over the centuries,
it's been ruled by the Arabs,

'the Portuguese and the British.

'the Portuguese and the British.

'It took a violent revolution
in 1964

'It took a violent revolution
in 1964

'for the locals
to take back control.

'But the multicultural legacy of
the spice trade is all around you.'

'But the multicultural legacy of
the spice trade is all around you.'

'But the multicultural legacy of
the spice trade is all around you.'

Farouque?
Joanna.

Farouque?
Joanna.

Thank you so much.
Welcome to Emerson Spice.

I'm stunned already.
You would love it. Look at this.

I'm stunned already.
You would love it. Look at this.

'Local fashion designer
Farouque Abdela

'Local fashion designer
Farouque Abdela

'is inspired by Zanzibar's past,

'is inspired by Zanzibar's past,

'and he helped restore the
Spice Hotel to its former glory.'

'and he helped restore the
Spice Hotel to its former glory.'

Look at this view!

You know, when I come up here,
I don't want to go down.

You know, when I come up here,
I don't want to go down.

When I look around,
there's a Christian church,

When I look around,
there's a Christian church,

and there's a mosque,
and there's rooftops and things.

and there's a mosque,
and there's rooftops and things.

This doesn't feel like Africa.

A lot of my friends come here,
and they say,

"This is not Africa,
this is Oriental."

A-ha.
Yeah.

You know, all this influence came,
of course, because of the spice.

You know, all this influence came,
of course, because of the spice.

Some spice was taken from here,
some spices came from Madagascar,

Some spice was taken from here,
some spices came from Madagascar,

Some spice was taken from here,
some spices came from Madagascar,

from Indonesia.

But with the spices came ideas.
Of course.

But with the spices came ideas.
Of course.

And came silk, came paper.
Everything was being traded.

And came silk, came paper.
Everything was being traded.

Everything was through the spices.
Yeah.

Everything was through the spices.
Yeah.

So even the influence,
the architect is very spicy.

So even the influence,
the architect is very spicy.

Of course.So spice, really,
part of our lives in Zanzibar,

Of course.So spice, really,
part of our lives in Zanzibar,

whether you are local,

whether you are local,

whether you are foreign, you know,
the spice is what it's all about.

whether you are foreign, you know,
the spice is what it's all about.

'But the spoils from the spice trade
weren't shared with the locals,

'But the spoils from the spice trade
weren't shared with the locals,

'which led to
the bloody revolution of 1964.

'which led to
the bloody revolution of 1964.

'Thousands of lives were lost.'

'Thousands of lives were lost.'

So, the revolution was
to kick out not only Arabs, but...

So, the revolution was
to kick out not only Arabs, but...

Not only Arabs, all the foreigners.
All foreigners.

Not only Arabs, all the foreigners.
All foreigners.

My family, Indians,
Arabs in all these buildings.

My family, Indians,
Arabs in all these buildings.

But you were born here.
Yeah.

Still, you didn't matter.
Everyone was kicked out.

Still, you didn't matter.
Everyone was kicked out.

And we had an aunt,
we have an uncle in England,

so we end up in England.

And how long did you stay away?
44 years.

And how long did you stay away?
44 years.

No, don't. Please.
Yeah.

No, don't. Please.
Yeah.

And what... what drew you back here?

A question of identity.

That when I arrived in London,
I was a foreigner. Yeah.

That when I arrived in London,
I was a foreigner. Yeah.

And then I became Black British.

And then I became Black London.

And I thought, "Wait a minute,
you know, I am African." Yeah.

And I thought, "Wait a minute,
you know, I am African." Yeah.

"Why am I known by my colour?
Time to come back and see."

"Why am I known by my colour?
Time to come back and see."

Of course, my family in England
thought I'd gone mad.

Of course, my family in England
thought I'd gone mad.

'Since Farouque returned,

'he's been trying to revive
traditional dressmaking.

'he's been trying to revive
traditional dressmaking.

'He wants to show me
his favourite stall.'

'He wants to show me
his favourite stall.'

I hope it's not going to rain now.

It's just starting.
It starts raining!

It's just starting to rain!

This is what happens here.
Just suddenly, the skies open.

This is what happens here.
Just suddenly, the skies open.

And this is the tropics.

Equatorial rains,
so the smell changes, and you go,

Equatorial rains,
so the smell changes, and you go,

"I can smell rain,"
and then, bang, down it comes.

"I can smell rain,"
and then, bang, down it comes.

Oh, my gosh. Look at this.
This is Chez Saleem.

'Farouque is keen to preserve
and promote the kanga -

'Farouque is keen to preserve
and promote the kanga -

'colourful printed cloth which
originated on the Swahili coast.'

'colourful printed cloth which
originated on the Swahili coast.'

This is a wedding kanga.
Yes.

If you get married
for the first time, you wear this.

If you get married
for the first time, you wear this.

And this is second wedding,

if you're getting married
for the second time.

So, when you wear this...
So the guests know.

The guests know.
This is not your first wedding.

Not the first time round, baby.

But look at the colours.
Yeah.

But look at the colours.
Yeah.

'Along with the wonderful designs,
the fabrics all have a message.

'Along with the wonderful designs,
the fabrics all have a message.

'It was the original
slogan T-shirt.'

'It was the original
slogan T-shirt.'

THEY READ SLOGAN
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

THEY READ SLOGAN
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

"Don't think I...

"Because I'm thin, don't think
my parents don't feed me."

"Because I'm thin, don't think
my parents don't feed me."

SHE CHUCKLES
Right.

Thinness here is not fashionable
at all. No, no, no.

Thinness here is not fashionable
at all. No, no, no.

'Farouque wanted me
to have the full experience.'

'Farouque wanted me
to have the full experience.'

OK, now, you choose yourself
a nice kanga.

OK, now, you choose yourself
a nice kanga.

I'm just in love with them all.

And we'll design something for you.
Oh, my God.

And we'll design something for you.
Oh, my God.

So, let's have a look.
What does that say?

So, let's have a look.
What does that say?

"You are my joy."
Oh, that's wonderful. I love that.

"You are my joy."
Oh, that's wonderful. I love that.

What we do here...
Yeah.

..we'll make a sort of
long, loose coat...

..we'll make a sort of
long, loose coat...

Ooh.
Very wide.

It's very dramatic and theatrical.

That's me, babe.
OK.

Thank you so much.

'The centre of Stone Town

'still tells the story
of the island's spice-trading past.'

'still tells the story
of the island's spice-trading past.'

'still tells the story
of the island's spice-trading past.'

I've been told to look out
for the doors in Zanzibar,

I've been told to look out
for the doors in Zanzibar,

and already, I can see
they're all so beautiful.

and already, I can see
they're all so beautiful.

So many influences.

Look at that.

'The intricately carved doors
were bold statements of wealth

'The intricately carved doors
were bold statements of wealth

'by successful merchants blending
African, Indian and Arabic styles.

'by successful merchants blending
African, Indian and Arabic styles.

'by successful merchants blending
African, Indian and Arabic styles.

'But on the outskirts of town is a
reminder of Zanzibar's darker past.

'But on the outskirts of town is a
reminder of Zanzibar's darker past.

'But on the outskirts of town is a
reminder of Zanzibar's darker past.

'It wasn't just spices
that were bought and sold.

'It wasn't just spices
that were bought and sold.

'Stone Town was host to one of
the world's last open slave markets.

'Stone Town was host to one of
the world's last open slave markets.

'Stone Town was host to one of
the world's last open slave markets.

'And by the 1860s,

'there were still over 20,000 slaves
passing through each year.'

'there were still over 20,000 slaves
passing through each year.'

Oh, God.

This is where 50 people,
50 slaves were kept

This is where 50 people,
50 slaves were kept

before they were taken to market.

They were kept here
for two or three days.

No food, no water.

It's stifling hot.
I can't even stand up.

It's stifling hot.
I can't even stand up.

And apparently,
the sea sloshed in through here.

And apparently,
the sea sloshed in through here.

And this was where
their kind of lavatory was.

And this was where
their kind of lavatory was.

So they were all crouched up here,
and this was just a stinking mess,

So they were all crouched up here,
and this was just a stinking mess,

So they were all crouched up here,
and this was just a stinking mess,

and...

It's just utterly,
utterly unbearable.

It's just utterly,
utterly unbearable.

The thought of those people,

The thought of those people,

bewildered and starved and beaten
and taken from their homelands.

bewildered and starved and beaten
and taken from their homelands.

No idea what the future would be.

No idea what the future would be.

And they're just sold on
as commodities.

And they're just sold on
as commodities.

'The slave market was eventually
shut down by the British in 1873,

'The slave market was eventually
shut down by the British in 1873,

'The slave market was eventually
shut down by the British in 1873,

'and this Anglican Christchurch
Cathedral was built as a memorial.'

'and this Anglican Christchurch
Cathedral was built as a memorial.'

'and this Anglican Christchurch
Cathedral was built as a memorial.'

'For hundreds of years,

'Zanzibar's unique location
in the Indian Ocean

'Zanzibar's unique location
in the Indian Ocean

'has been key to its success.

'But today's fishing nets
and discarded plastic

'But today's fishing nets
and discarded plastic

'are threatening its wildlife.'

Suleiman.
Hello.

Suleiman.
Hello.

Hello, I'm Joanna.
I'm Suleiman. Nice to meet you.

Hello, I'm Joanna.
I'm Suleiman. Nice to meet you.

Oh, thank you so much. Thank you.

Oh, thank you so much. Thank you.

Look at this great lagoon,
this looks gorgeous.

Look at this great lagoon,
this looks gorgeous.

It is. It's a natural laguna.
Wow.

It is. It's a natural laguna.
Wow.

'The Mnarani Turtle Sanctuary
was set up 20 years ago

'The Mnarani Turtle Sanctuary
was set up 20 years ago

'to rescue sea turtles
caught up in the nets.'

'to rescue sea turtles
caught up in the nets.'

JOANNA GASPS

Look at the size of these people!

Look at the size of these people!

They still younger
because they live about 120 years.

They still younger
because they live about 120 years.

They still younger
because they live about 120 years.

No!
See, that's the boss.

No!
See, that's the boss.

This is the boss?
Yes.

Boss, boss, boss.
Look, I'm bringing this.

Boss, boss, boss.
Look, I'm bringing this.

Da, da, da. Don't be so cross.

I mean,
these are sort of dream creatures.

I mean,
these are sort of dream creatures.

Virtually unchanged
since they began,

and look at how
spectacularly beautiful they are.

and look at how
spectacularly beautiful they are.

And these are green turtles.

The hawksbill,
with very, very spectacular shells,

The hawksbill,
with very, very spectacular shells,

are killed for their shells,

and then people make
tortoiseshell things.

But these ones are killed
for their meat.

But these ones are killed
for their meat.

'It can take a long time
for the turtles to recover

'It can take a long time
for the turtles to recover

'from their injuries.'

We have one of the juvenile turtle.

We have one of the juvenile turtle.

We had him for two years.
Now he's healthy enough to release.

We had him for two years.
Now he's healthy enough to release.

No!
We're going to release a turtle?!

Oh.

Do you have any name?

Could I call her Elizabeth
after Queen Elizabeth II?

Could I call her Elizabeth
after Queen Elizabeth II?

Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth, wow.

Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth, wow.

Oh, I will do the door.
Yeah.

Oh, I will do the door.
Yeah.

Oh, Suleiman.

There, she can smell the sea now.

Yeah. It's very sad to say bye,
you know. Of course it is.

Yeah. It's very sad to say bye,
you know. Of course it is.

Of course it is.
Yes.

Off you fly.
OK, bye-bye.

Off you fly.
OK, bye-bye.

SONG: 'Ave Maria'

SONG: 'Ave Maria'

Oh, Suleiman...
Yes, the old mare, Elizabeth.

Oh, Suleiman...
Yes, the old mare, Elizabeth.

You are wonderful. Look at that.

Look, her little face up.
Yeah.

Look, her little face up.
Yeah.

That makes me feel very weepy.

That makes me feel very weepy.

Gee whiz.

Gee whiz.

You're doing such a good thing here,
Suleiman.

Thank you.

Thank you.

SHE SNIFFS

SHE LAUGHS
All right?

SHE LAUGHS
All right?

Oh, Suleiman.
Yes.

SHE LAUGHS

Don't cry, yes.
I'm not crying.

Don't cry, yes.
I'm not crying.

It's happy. Happy tears.

OK. Happy, happy. Pleased to be.
Happy tears.

OK. Happy, happy. Pleased to be.
Happy tears.

Hi, hi.
Hey. How are you?

Hi, hi.
Hey. How are you?

Hi, hi, hi.
Everything's good.

Thank you.
So welcome.

Thank you very much.

HE SPEAKS
OWN LANGUAGE

'For centuries, the spice trade
has been dominated by men.

'For centuries, the spice trade
has been dominated by men.

'But in Jambiani,

'a group of villages
on the east coast of Zanzibar...

'a group of villages
on the east coast of Zanzibar...

'..newer industries have emerged,

'..newer industries have emerged,

'and women are very definitely
in charge.'

'and women are very definitely
in charge.'

Jambo. How nice to see you.
Yes.

Jambo. How nice to see you.
Yes.

Now, what is happening here?
Let me see.

Now, what is happening here?
Let me see.

'Zanzibar began exporting seaweed
in the 1930s.

'Zanzibar began exporting seaweed
in the 1930s.

'Zanzibar began exporting seaweed
in the 1930s.

'It used to grow wild,

'but these days,
it's farmed on ropes.'

'but these days,
it's farmed on ropes.'

I see, so you gather it from there.
Is that OK?

I see, so you gather it from there.
Is that OK?

It is OK?
Really good.

Oh, you are so sweet.

Oh, you are so sweet.

Then, when this is done,
they're harboured, as it were,

Then, when this is done,
they're harboured, as it were,

with poles stuck in there.

Right down to the bottom.

'Seaweed is a valuable product,
as it contains carrageenan,

'Seaweed is a valuable product,
as it contains carrageenan,

'a natural gelling agent
that's used in cosmetics,

'a natural gelling agent
that's used in cosmetics,

'medicine and food products
like ice cream.'

'medicine and food products
like ice cream.'

How's that, babe? Yeah...

How's that, babe? Yeah...

JOANNA LAUGHS

Talk about secret work
under the water.

Talk about secret work
under the water.

But do you know,
the extraordinary thing is,

is that you can feel
this sort of seaweedy gel,

is that you can feel
this sort of seaweedy gel,

this lovely, smooth slime.

It feels beautiful, doesn't it?
So silky smooth.

It feels beautiful, doesn't it?
So silky smooth.

So here, back to here.

Der, der, dum. Not very strong.
Not too...

Der, der, dum. Not very strong.
Not too...

Not very Deadeye Dick here,
I'm afraid.

Not very Deadeye Dick here,
I'm afraid.

Is that enough of this?

Is that enough of this?

These women are working so hard.

It's a pretty idyllic setting,
but the thing is,

because of global warming,

the sea here
is getting warmer and warmer,

the sea here
is getting warmer and warmer,

and seaweed prefers cooler water.

So they're having
to make their farms further out.

So they're having
to make their farms further out.

And most of these women can't swim.

And most of these women can't swim.

So it's becoming absolutely
horrifying for them, actually.

So it's becoming absolutely
horrifying for them, actually.

It's frightening. We never think
of these things - global warming.

It's frightening. We never think
of these things - global warming.

We think of hot summer days,

you know,
up in the northern hemisphere.

But the effect it has on this,

which is such an important industry
for Zanzibar,

which is such an important industry
for Zanzibar,

these women's lives depend on it.

Dragging in the water.

Oh, on my head?

My head, yeah.
JOANNA CHUCKLES

My head, yeah.
JOANNA CHUCKLES

Whoa! That's quite heavy.

Whoa! That's quite heavy.

This might not last terribly long.

This might not last terribly long.

SHE LAUGHS

It's sopping wet!

'Back in the village,
Hadija showed me the next stage.'

'Back in the village,
Hadija showed me the next stage.'

Look at that, stripping it out.

Look at that, stripping it out.

May I ask, how much do you get paid?

May I ask, how much do you get paid?

Are your husbands happy
for you to do this work?

Are your husbands happy
for you to do this work?

I should think
he's very proud of her,

very pleased with her.

Do the men ever do this work?

On their heads now is...
is dried seaweed.

On their heads now is...
is dried seaweed.

And this is going to take it
to the buyer.

And this is going to take it
to the buyer.

Here we are.

So, here we've got the weigher.

Seven-and-a-half kilos?

Yeah?
WOMAN:Yes.

And this one?

This is nearly ten.

SHE READS
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE:

SHE READS
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE:

I'm gonna read yours, have you got
something for me to read?

I'm gonna read yours, have you got
something for me to read?

Ooh-hoo!

She's happy.
"I'm poor, but I'm happy."

She's happy.
"I'm poor, but I'm happy."

Oh, sweetheart,
I love that, I love that.

Oh, sweetheart,
I love that, I love that.

She's making a deal,
a deal's going on, I won't... Shh.

She's making a deal,
a deal's going on, I won't... Shh.

Hadija, how much money do you have?

Hadija, how much money do you have?

7,000 and 500.

7,000 and 500.

'It's about £2.60.'

'It's about £2.60.'

So it's not a lot of money, is it?

So it's not a lot of money, is it?

Good. Thank you.

THEY LAUGH

'Back in town,

'there's another group of women
taking up traditionally male roles.'

'there's another group of women
taking up traditionally male roles.'

19...

Here it is. 15.

Here it is. 15.

Oh.
Good morning, madame.

Maestro. How lovely to see you.

'Mohamed Ilyas is a famous musician,

'Mohamed Ilyas is a famous musician,

'but it's his wife, Maryam,
and her orchestra

'that I've come to see.'

'The women are playing taarab,
the traditional music of Zanzibar.

'The women are playing taarab,
the traditional music of Zanzibar.

'The women are playing taarab,
the traditional music of Zanzibar.

'It's the legacy
of centuries of spice trading,

'It's the legacy
of centuries of spice trading,

'with influences from
the Middle East, India and Africa.'

'with influences from
the Middle East, India and Africa.'

Ooh!

Brava, bravissimi!
This is fantastic.

Brava, bravissimi!
This is fantastic.

It's just wonderful.
It's such a mixture of sounds.

It's just wonderful.
It's such a mixture of sounds.

Yeah, you know,
because the taarab, actually,

Yeah, you know,
because the taarab, actually,

is a mix, it's like a cocktail.

is a mix, it's like a cocktail.

The first people who started taarab,

The first people who started taarab,

who are those who are coming here
during the monsoon... Yes.

who are those who are coming here
during the monsoon... Yes.

..between India,
between Arabia and then Somalia.

..between India,
between Arabia and then Somalia.

..between India,
between Arabia and then Somalia.

And they were bringing incense,
they were bringing meds,

And they were bringing incense,
they were bringing meds,

they were bringing music.

If you hear the rumba, we have...
Yes, indeed.

If you hear the rumba, we have...
Yes, indeed.

It's a bit different from rumba.

Yeah.
But it's rumba. We have samba.

And you've got African drums.

These are...
Yeah, now, most of these people,

These are...
Yeah, now, most of these people,

they love these African beats,
you know,

they love these African beats,
you know,

because before,
taarab was just to sit and listen.

because before,
taarab was just to sit and listen.

But now it is a dance, they enjoy.

But now it is a dance, they enjoy.

'Maryam was the first woman
to play the qanun in Zanzibar

'Maryam was the first woman
to play the qanun in Zanzibar

'and the first to start up
a female orchestra.

'and the first to start up
a female orchestra.

'But it's not always been easy.'

We have some wives, very few here,

We have some wives, very few here,

who are allowed by their husband
to continue.

who are allowed by their husband
to continue.

But others,
once they were married...

But others,
once they were married...

they stop dead.

That's heart-breaking.

Do you think that will change?
Will that change?

It will change because some of them,
for example,

It will change because some of them,
for example,

this one, her husband stop her
from coming, but now allowed her.

this one, her husband stop her
from coming, but now allowed her.

ALL SINGING

ALL SINGING

Maryam,
you're a genius in every way.

What you've done here
is to free a lot of women.

What you've done here
is to free a lot of women.

Yeah.

And now I'm happy
that they want to learn more

And now I'm happy
that they want to learn more

And now I'm happy
that they want to learn more

and to experience more.

Now I'm 79.
Yeah.

Now I'm 79.
Yeah.

Next year, I become 80.
JOANNA CHUCKLES

Next year, I become 80.
JOANNA CHUCKLES

Eight-zero! My God!

Eight-zero! My God!

And I always tell them,
age doesn't bother you.

And I always tell them,
age doesn't bother you.

Good.
Age is just numbers.

Yeah.You can play, you can dance,
instead of just sleeping.

Yeah.You can play, you can dance,
instead of just sleeping.

Yeah.You can play, you can dance,
instead of just sleeping.

I quite agree, I quite agree.

'The men, meanwhile,
are doing important things.

'The men, meanwhile,
are doing important things.

'I thought I'd try my luck.'

'I thought I'd try my luck.'

Uh-oh.

Yeah. Ola!

Ha-ha-ha!

'Before heading off
to pick up my coat.'

'Before heading off
to pick up my coat.'

Farouque.
Welcome to my little store.

Farouque.
Welcome to my little store.

This is Aladdin's cave.

This is Aladdin's cave.

And I can hardly bear to wait.
Have you made my gorgeous thing?

And I can hardly bear to wait.
Have you made my gorgeous thing?

I did.
No!

I'm a diva.
I love it already.

I'm going to buy the entire shop,
and you, Farouque.

I'm going to buy the entire shop,
and you, Farouque.

Voila.
SHE GASPS

Oh, the message, it says,
"You are my joy.""You are my joy."

Oh, the message, it says,
"You are my joy.""You are my joy."

Oh, my gosh. Look at that.

Comfortable?

It's absolutely ravishing.

It's absolutely ravishing.

Look at that.

Oh, Farouque, I'm so thrilled.

I think it's absolutely ravishing.
Thank you.

I'll remember you forever.

Thank you.

'Down by the port, the Forodhani
night market is buzzing.'

'Down by the port, the Forodhani
night market is buzzing.'

This is such a gorgeous time of day.

The heat's gone out,
but everybody's come out here,

The heat's gone out,
but everybody's come out here,

they're swimming,
kicking balls around,

they're swimming,
kicking balls around,

practising their mad jumping.

Some are just literally
jumping off into water.

There are boats bringing people
back in,

There are boats bringing people
back in,

sails being furled for the night.

There's a good game here.

There's a good game here.

They make a pile of sand,
and they put a stick in it.

They make a pile of sand,
and they put a stick in it.

Just...
Ah!

Ah! Then whoever...

SHE LAUGHS

..whoever knocks the stick out
gets chased into the water.

..whoever knocks the stick out
gets chased into the water.

It's ridiculously childish,
I love it.

It's ridiculously childish,
I love it.

I love it!

'Even the food here
is a cultural fusion.'

'Even the food here
is a cultural fusion.'

Excuse me, sir.
Do you speak English?

Excuse me, sir.
Do you speak English?

Fairly.
Ah. You're just the man.

Fairly.
Ah. You're just the man.

What is your name?
Musawi is my name.

What is your name?
Musawi is my name.

Musawi, my name is Joanna.
Hello, Joanna.

Can you explain to me, I have
been told to ask for Zanzibar mix.

Can you explain to me, I have
been told to ask for Zanzibar mix.

Yes.
Can I get it here?

Yes, you can.

And there's no Zanzibar mix
without these ones here.

And there's no Zanzibar mix
without these ones here.

Grated manioc crisps.

Grated manioc crisps.

Grated manioc crisps.

Golden brown.
Are you a chef?

Golden brown.
Are you a chef?

Well, I just love food,
and I love exposition.

Well, I just love food,
and I love exposition.

So two in one.
It's just brilliant.

So two in one.
It's just brilliant.

That looks completely wonderful.
Oh, yes.

That looks completely wonderful.
Oh, yes.

Thank you so much, honey.

Thank you so much, honey.

God, it's good.
Yeah.

It's really good.
What were you going to have, Musawi?

It's really good.
What were you going to have, Musawi?

I jumped the queue now for you.

I never talk before I eat.
No.

I never talk before I eat.
No.

Well, no, you can't eat now.
A full tummy is equal to my sanity.

Well, no, you can't eat now.
A full tummy is equal to my sanity.

JOANNA LAUGHS

God, I just come down here
to get a bowl of Zanzibar mix,

God, I just come down here
to get a bowl of Zanzibar mix,

and I meet a philosopher.

It's magic.

'Sadly, my time in Zanzibar
is coming to an end.'

'Sadly, my time in Zanzibar
is coming to an end.'

This is such a fascinating place,
you know, because...

This is such a fascinating place,
you know, because...

it's changed,
and yet, it hasn't changed.

it's changed,
and yet, it hasn't changed.

Of course, things are now going
by huge container ships

Of course, things are now going
by huge container ships

rather than
the little graceful dhow,

rather than
the little graceful dhow,

but ideas and people and businesses
still coming in and out.

but ideas and people and businesses
still coming in and out.

And that was all founded
on the spice trade.

All of it came from spices.

But with that came music,
came architecture, came art,

But with that came music,
came architecture, came art,

But with that came music,
came architecture, came art,

came fusion cooking,
came religions, came ideas.

came fusion cooking,
came religions, came ideas.

And all of it in Zanzibar
seemed to tangle up

And all of it in Zanzibar
seemed to tangle up

and make
the most incredible mixture.

and make
the most incredible mixture.

It's just intoxicating, this place.
It's quite wonderful.

It's just intoxicating, this place.
It's quite wonderful.

And I hate to have to leave it,
but I've got to go.

And I hate to have to leave it,
but I've got to go.

But there's one more country
that I'm going to visit

But there's one more country
that I'm going to visit

on this epic spice trail.

on this epic spice trail.

Come with me. We're going to Jordan.

Come with me. We're going to Jordan.

'The spice route played a major role

'in making Arabia one of the oldest
trade centres of the world.

'in making Arabia one of the oldest
trade centres of the world.

'Having sailed across the
Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea,

'Having sailed across the
Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea,

'the spices continued on land
through present day Jordan,

'the spices continued on land
through present day Jordan,

'destined for the ancient city
of Petra, the gateway to Europe.'

'destined for the ancient city
of Petra, the gateway to Europe.'

'destined for the ancient city
of Petra, the gateway to Europe.'

Nothing's changed here

since first these great caravanserai
used to cross,

since first these great caravanserai
used to cross,

taking the last leg of spices
and gold and incense

taking the last leg of spices
and gold and incense

taking the last leg of spices
and gold and incense

and silks from all across the world.

It's fantastic.

And, of course, we're on camels.

And, of course, we're on camels.

They can go for three weeks
in the desert without water,

They can go for three weeks
in the desert without water,

but they can drink something like
40 litres in three minutes.

but they can drink something like
40 litres in three minutes.

Vroomph!
And it's stored in their humps.

Vroomph!
And it's stored in their humps.

And they're peaceful and quiet,

and they've got split feet
like this.

and they've got split feet
like this.

This is the business.

Saleem?
Yes.

Will you sing your camel song?

Will you sing your camel song?

HE SINGS
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

HE SINGS
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE

'Lawrence of Arabia
described Wadi Rum

'Lawrence of Arabia
described Wadi Rum

'as vast, echoing and God-like.

'as vast, echoing and God-like.

'2,000 years ago, it was
the homeland of the Nabataeans,

'2,000 years ago, it was
the homeland of the Nabataeans,

'the nomads who controlled all
the trade routes across the desert,

'the nomads who controlled all
the trade routes across the desert,

'leading to their capital city,
Petra.

'leading to their capital city,
Petra.

'After weeks of travelling,

'the caravanserai would rest here
at Aber Hall,

'the caravanserai would rest here
at Aber Hall,

'and extraordinarily,
they've left behind evidence

'and extraordinarily,
they've left behind evidence

'which helps us understand
their journey.'

'which helps us understand
their journey.'

This is the way of the caravan,

This is the way of the caravan,

which go from Saudi Arabia,
800 kilometre,

which go from Saudi Arabia,
800 kilometre,

then go to Petra this way,

then go to Petra this way,

trading spices, you know?
Yes.

trading spices, you know?
Yes.

When they arrive in this place,
they do some carving.

When they arrive in this place,
they do some carving.

When they arrive in this place,
they do some carving.

Saleem, when were these made?

This carving,
this is over than 2,000 years old,

This carving,
this is over than 2,000 years old,

it's done by Nabataean.

Do you think that these are gods?

In my opinion,
or my grand-grandfather,

In my opinion,
or my grand-grandfather,

it's like a god for people,
blessing him, you know,

it's like a god for people,
blessing him, you know,

it's like a god for people,
blessing him, you know,

and they pray here, you know.

Until here, they are safe
from wild animals,

Until here, they are safe
from wild animals,

Until here, they are safe
from wild animals,

thieves, from everybody, you know.

thieves, from everybody, you know.

Look at these animals.
Which are these?

These animals, it's a kind of goat.
There are horns going...

These animals, it's a kind of goat.
There are horns going...

This horn, this kind of goat, now
you don't find it in the area here.

This horn, this kind of goat, now
you don't find it in the area here.

This horn, this kind of goat, now
you don't find it in the area here.

And this beautiful camel here.
Yes.

And this beautiful camel here.
Yes.

These are very high up.

They use the camel,
sitting on the camel.

And just...
Yes.

"S-Stop it." The camel will go,
"Bluh, bluh, bluh."

"S-Stop it." The camel will go,
"Bluh, bluh, bluh."

SHE MIMICS

Take a long time, you know.
A long time.

Take a long time, you know.
A long time.

You can see why this would be
a wonderful place to stop -

You can see why this would be
a wonderful place to stop -

an exhausting trek,
then to come to this gorgeous haven

an exhausting trek,
then to come to this gorgeous haven

and know you're only a week away
from your destination,

and know you're only a week away
from your destination,

which would be Petra,

where you're going to exchange
all the goods

and barter and catch up on the news.

But this is just exceptional.

But this is just exceptional.

It's completely silent.

It's completely silent.

There are no birds here.

And you can just hear
the lightest breeze.

And you can just hear
the lightest breeze.

'Saleem was born and brought up in
the desert, living a nomadic life.

'Saleem was born and brought up in
the desert, living a nomadic life.

'Saleem was born and brought up in
the desert, living a nomadic life.

'In 1994,
the government built a village

'In 1994,
the government built a village

'with schools and electricity.'

'with schools and electricity.'

70% of the Bedouin now in desert
go to the village.

70% of the Bedouin now in desert
go to the village.

Do you live in the...
in the village, Saleem?

Do you live in the...
in the village, Saleem?

Yes, I live in the village,
30 years about.

Yes, I live in the village,
30 years about.

Wow.
About 30 years, yes.

Before, we are moving
with a tent from place to place.

Before, we are moving
with a tent from place to place.

Did you prefer that life?

100%.
100%?

'Saleem takes me to meet one of
the remaining Bedouin families

'Saleem takes me to meet one of
the remaining Bedouin families

'who still live
in the traditional way.'

'who still live
in the traditional way.'

HE SPEAKS
OWN LANGUAGE

HE SPEAKS
OWN LANGUAGE

Saleem, this is cardamom in there?

This is cardamom,
and he make Bedouin coffee.

This is cardamom,
and he make Bedouin coffee.

When you finish,
with Bedouin tradition...

When you finish,
with Bedouin tradition...

Yeah.
..you should move the cup like this.

Yeah.
..you should move the cup like this.

If you don't move it...
Yeah?

They fill you up again?
Yeah.

Yeah.
Until you...

Until...
THEY LAUGH

I'll remember that.

We can hear the camels in the
background.Yeah, the camel is...

We can hear the camels in the
background.Yeah, the camel is...

They love it.
And I love all these cloths around.

They love it.
And I love all these cloths around.

This is all handmade, from the goat.

This is all handmade, from the goat.

Goat?
From the hair of the goat.

Goat hair, how lovely.
Yeah.

Very easy, simple life.
Thank you.

Very easy, simple life.
Thank you.

So, you don't...
I did...

I did shake it, yeah.
Oh, you did.

I did, a little bit,
but very delicately.

I did, a little bit,
but very delicately.

How long have they now been here
in this camp?

How long have they now been here
in this camp?

When did they arrive here?

And the... Is the grazing
all right for the goats?

And the... Is the grazing
all right for the goats?

And will the rains come soon?
Will something happen?

And will the rains come soon?
Will something happen?

Very hard, very hard work.

But he look for a new wife,
you know,

But he look for a new wife,
you know,

to help him and the goats, you know.

But has he got a wife?

Yes, he have two,
but he needs the third, you know.

Yes, he have two,
but he needs the third, you know.

And am I in the running?

You look... You look good.
We'll give you ten camel.

You look... You look good.
We'll give you ten camel.

Ten camels for me?

Yes.
I'm flattered. That's wonderful.

THEY LAUGH

THEY LAUGH

'This family is one of the last

'of the nomadic Bedouins
living in the desert.

'of the nomadic Bedouins
living in the desert.

'But there are new arrivals
all the time.

'But there are new arrivals
all the time.

'Ten years ago, 450 Syrians
fleeing the fighting at home

'Ten years ago, 450 Syrians
fleeing the fighting at home

'Ten years ago, 450 Syrians
fleeing the fighting at home

'crossed the border
into neighbouring Jordan

'crossed the border
into neighbouring Jordan

'and became the first inhabitants

'of the newly opened
Zaatari Refugee Camp.

'of the newly opened
Zaatari Refugee Camp.

'Within a year, the tents
were replaced with metal shelters,

'Within a year, the tents
were replaced with metal shelters,

'Within a year, the tents
were replaced with metal shelters,

'and the population had soared
to 120,000...

'and the population had soared
to 120,000...

'..making it Jordan's
fourth-largest city.'

'..making it Jordan's
fourth-largest city.'

Look at all these, it's just
like a busy, busy shopping street.

Look at all these, it's just
like a busy, busy shopping street.

Lots of shoes, vegetables,
things being made,

Lots of shoes, vegetables,
things being made,

shisha pipes, fabulous
sort of winter wear for ladies.

shisha pipes, fabulous
sort of winter wear for ladies.

shisha pipes, fabulous
sort of winter wear for ladies.

And look, you can rent
a beautiful bridal dress here,

And look, you can rent
a beautiful bridal dress here,

dark crimson or cream.

It's quite extraordinary how people,

whose hearts
must have been torn out,

whose homes were probably destroyed,

who may have even lost
family members,

who may have even lost
family members,

had to start all over again.

And they're just people like us.

'My guide, Nahel,

'has arranged for me to have lunch
with a refugee family.'

'has arranged for me to have lunch
with a refugee family.'

Salam alaikum.
Alaikum salam.

Salam alaikum.
Alaikum salam.

Ah, how lovely.

Now, this, I know.
This is cinnamon, isn't it?

Now, this, I know.
This is cinnamon, isn't it?

Qurfa.
Qurfa.

Lemons.
Lemons.

It's a dazzling shop.

Look at the display
of beans and pulses and seeds.

Look at the display
of beans and pulses and seeds.

OK?
Yeah.

Tamam? Off we go.

Do you live down here, Umwael?

'Umwael and her family
are from Daraa in southwest Syria.

'Umwael and her family
are from Daraa in southwest Syria.

'It's only 40 miles away, but their
lives couldn't be more different.'

'It's only 40 miles away, but their
lives couldn't be more different.'

'It's only 40 miles away, but their
lives couldn't be more different.'

Oh, Umwael, was it like this
when you first came here?

Oh, Umwael, was it like this
when you first came here?

Oh, Umwael, was it like this
when you first came here?

It looks so lovely, Umwael.

Hello.

Hello, Lilas.
Hello.

Is the garden out here?
Huh.

'The family receives
just enough money to live,

'The family receives
just enough money to live,

'so anything they can grow in this
water-scarce country is invaluable.'

'so anything they can grow in this
water-scarce country is invaluable.'

'so anything they can grow in this
water-scarce country is invaluable.'

Mint. "Fwl"? That's beans, isn't it?

Mint. "Fwl"? That's beans, isn't it?

And here, we have vines growing up.
Two.

And here, we have vines growing up.
Two.

You're so good.
It's beautiful, it really is.

You're so good.
It's beautiful, it really is.

'Eating together as a family
is one of the few things

'Eating together as a family
is one of the few things

'reminiscent of their old life.'

My olives.

My olives.

These are olives from your tree?

These are olives from your tree?

Yes. Mmm.
They're gorgeous.

Yes. Mmm.
They're gorgeous.

What was life in Syria like?

What was life in Syria like?

And what was your home like there?
What was your house like?

And what was your home like there?
What was your house like?

Mm-hm.

This is so delicious.

Very, very good.

Very, very good.

Umwael, tell me what it is like
for the children

Umwael, tell me what it is like
for the children

growing up here in this camp.

growing up here in this camp.

Do you think that you will
go back to Syria?

Do you think that you will
go back to Syria?

Yeah.

I just love the way
the human spirit can triumph

I just love the way
the human spirit can triumph

above all kinds of ghastlinesses.

Start a new life and keep on going.

Start a new life and keep on going.

Well done. Well done, Zaatari.

'This really is the most
extraordinary part of the world.

'This really is the most
extraordinary part of the world.

'It started with trade routes
thousands of years ago,

'It started with trade routes
thousands of years ago,

'and people have been on the move
ever since.

'and people have been on the move
ever since.

'An old friend of mine has moved
to Amman, Jordan's capital city.'

'An old friend of mine has moved
to Amman, Jordan's capital city.'

Rory.
Hello. Welcome, welcome.

Rory.
Hello. Welcome, welcome.

'Rory Stewart has given up politics

'and now works with refugees through
charities like GiveDirectly.'

'and now works with refugees through
charities like GiveDirectly.'

The whole place would have been
an enormous Roman city

The whole place would have been
an enormous Roman city

called Philadelphia.

Connected right the way back
to Petra and the spice trade.

Connected right the way back
to Petra and the spice trade.

How extraordinary.

How extraordinary.

And this would have been all
a Greek- and Latin-speaking culture.

And this would have been all
a Greek- and Latin-speaking culture.

Rory, I've spent most of the day
at Zaatari Refugee Camp.

Rory, I've spent most of the day
at Zaatari Refugee Camp.

Do you think it is resolvable,
this situation?

Do you think it is resolvable,
this situation?

Well, I think the problem,
unfortunately,

is that so long as the regime
is in place...

is that so long as the regime
is in place...

There was a reason
why these people left,

and they mostly left because
they were enemies of the regime,

and they mostly left because
they were enemies of the regime,

and they're mostly worried
that if they return,

and they're mostly worried
that if they return,

action will be taken against them.

Jordan's been awfully generous,
don't you think?

Jordan's been awfully generous,
don't you think?

Jordan's been extraordinary.

Much more than, you know, we...

In Britain, we worry
about 20,000, 30,000 people.

In Britain, we worry
about 20,000, 30,000 people.

Jordan took
more than a million people,

and that was on the back of having
taken millions of Palestinians

and that was on the back of having
taken millions of Palestinians

not very long before.

Why are we so bad at this?

Why are we so bad at this?

Because it seems to me that
every shift in history of people,

Because it seems to me that
every shift in history of people,

they seem to have brought in
good things.

Often, we think about refugees
as victims.

Often, we think about refugees
as victims.

We think about what they lack,
their deficiencies,

We think about what they lack,
their deficiencies,

instead of what they have positively
to contribute.

instead of what they have positively
to contribute.

All the different languages,
all the different foods and spices.

All the different languages,
all the different foods and spices.

Yeah.And when people say, what was
the ancient civilisation here?

Yeah.And when people say, what was
the ancient civilisation here?

The answer is
it was every civilisation

laid on top of each other.

As a way of connecting
to your story,

this part of the world
is right at the very centre of that.

this part of the world
is right at the very centre of that.

But you really need to go
a little bit further south to Petra.

But you really need to go
a little bit further south to Petra.

Would you like to come with me?
I'd love to come,

but I'm not gonna be allowed
by my wife and children.

but I'm not gonna be allowed
by my wife and children.

JOANNA CHUCKLES

'Looks like I'll be going
on my own, then.

'Looks like I'll be going
on my own, then.

'Well, that's if
you don't count the crew.

'But I'm beyond excited.

'But I'm beyond excited.

'I've been wanting to see this great
wonder of the world for so long.'

'I've been wanting to see this great
wonder of the world for so long.'

'I've been wanting to see this great
wonder of the world for so long.'

'I'm following in the footsteps
of the spice traders,

'I'm following in the footsteps
of the spice traders,

'who, 2,000 years ago, approached
the centre of the city of Petra

'who, 2,000 years ago, approached
the centre of the city of Petra

'who, 2,000 years ago, approached
the centre of the city of Petra

'through this narrow passageway
known as the Siq.'

'through this narrow passageway
known as the Siq.'

This is so thrilling.

I've been allowed in before anybody
else, and it's still night time.

I've been allowed in before anybody
else, and it's still night time.

And I'm just waiting and waiting to
see the Eighth Wonder of the World,

And I'm just waiting and waiting to
see the Eighth Wonder of the World,

And I'm just waiting and waiting to
see the Eighth Wonder of the World,

the huge Treasury,
which is what it's called, of Petra.

the huge Treasury,
which is what it's called, of Petra.

Oh look, these are camel's feet.

Look, you can see
the camels' hooves.

Look, you can see
the camels' hooves.

So this must have been
a camel there.

So this must have been
a camel there.

Oh, look, a man! Feet. Legs.

Oh, look, a man! Feet. Legs.

Bigger than life-size
with his robe there.

Bigger than life-size
with his robe there.

Ooh, ooh!

I don't really know
why I'm whispering,

I don't really know
why I'm whispering,

it's sort of in case
the rocks hear me.

it's sort of in case
the rocks hear me.

And know that I'm here,
out of bounds.

And know that I'm here,
out of bounds.

Look how close and narrow
they get up there.

Look how close and narrow
they get up there.

SHE GASPS

Look.

Look.

Oh, look.

Oh, look.

OPERA MUSIC PLAYS

OPERA MUSIC PLAYS

And this astonishing place.

And this astonishing place.

I seem to know it etched in
because it's such a famous vision.

I seem to know it etched in
because it's such a famous vision.

I seem to know it etched in
because it's such a famous vision.

Coming through, everybody sees
this first - phew, the Treasury.

Coming through, everybody sees
this first - phew, the Treasury.

Match me such marvel
Save in Eastern clime,

Match me such marvel
Save in Eastern clime,

A rose red city half as old as time.

A rose red city half as old as time.

Look at this.

Look at this.

Petra!

'The Treasury,
built in the first century BC,

'The Treasury,
built in the first century BC,

'was thought to be the tomb
of a king of the Nabataeans,

'was thought to be the tomb
of a king of the Nabataeans,

'the ancient Arabs who ruled here.

'the ancient Arabs who ruled here.

'But I'm meeting up with Mamoon,

'an academic
who has a very different theory.'

'an academic
who has a very different theory.'

Good morning, Joanna.
Oh, this is so good.

Nice to meet you.
Thank you so much.

Look, I'm completely stunned.

Just extraordinary.
Exactly.

And is it... is it a treasury?

No. This is, you know,

from the legend where a pharaoh,
the Egyptian king, hid his gold.

from the legend where a pharaoh,
the Egyptian king, hid his gold.

So people thought that
there is a treasure at the top.

So people thought that
there is a treasure at the top.

So if it's not a treasury,
what was it?

So if it's not a treasury,
what was it?

So far, nobody knows
exactly what was used for.

So far, nobody knows
exactly what was used for.

So some people say
that this was a temple.

So some people say
that this was a temple.

Others say that this
was a memorial tomb.

Others say that this
was a memorial tomb.

It is also, you know,
details of a calendar.

It is also, you know,
details of a calendar.

We have the four birds
at the top for the four seasons.

We have the four birds
at the top for the four seasons.

Yeah.
Then we have 12 columns

on the two floors
for the 12 months of the year.

Yes.
Seven cups for seven days.

Yes.
Seven cups for seven days.

It's an almanac.
Almanac.

Almanac is one of the names
of Petra.

No.Yes, it is
one of the names of Petra.

It's called Almanac?
Almanac.

Well, that's what this is.
Yes. This is the conclusion

Well, that's what this is.
Yes. This is the conclusion

of all the Nabataean studies,
Almanac.

'Petra was ideally located
to connect the Asian, African

'Petra was ideally located
to connect the Asian, African

'and European markets,

'so the Nabataeans hand-carved
buildings and water channels

'so the Nabataeans hand-carved
buildings and water channels

'out of the sandstone cliffs

'out of the sandstone cliffs

'to turn this inhospitable location
into a huge trading centre.'

'to turn this inhospitable location
into a huge trading centre.'

'to turn this inhospitable location
into a huge trading centre.'

Now, this is the commercial part
of the city

Now, this is the commercial part
of the city

where the traders will meet.

We can see the hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms?Yes, where
the VIP traders were accommodated.

Hotel rooms?Yes, where
the VIP traders were accommodated.

Yes. Well!
And you can see stairs

at the top of the buildings,
which were used as sundials.

at the top of the buildings,
which were used as sundials.

So the sun, at some time of the day,
will strike them?Yes.

So the sun, at some time of the day,
will strike them?Yes.

And you'll read it like a sundial?
Yes, exactly.

And you'll read it like a sundial?
Yes, exactly.

And you'll know it's 4:30.
Exactly.

And you'll know it's 4:30.
Exactly.

'But after centuries of prosperity,
trade routes changed,

'But after centuries of prosperity,
trade routes changed,

'But after centuries of prosperity,
trade routes changed,

'and Petra was abandoned
for over five centuries.'

'and Petra was abandoned
for over five centuries.'

Then in 1812,

an extraordinary young explorer,
only 28 years old,

an extraordinary young explorer,
only 28 years old,

he's called Jean-Louis Burckhardt,
and he was Swiss,

he's called Jean-Louis Burckhardt,
and he was Swiss,

and he came through the Siq,

and he came across Petra
just as we see it today.

and he came across Petra
just as we see it today.

And checking things out,
he knew that this was the lost city

And checking things out,
he knew that this was the lost city

And checking things out,
he knew that this was the lost city

and that he was probably
the first European ever to visit it.

and that he was probably
the first European ever to visit it.

and that he was probably
the first European ever to visit it.

Oh, I'm gonna need a hand up here.

Yes, I'll give you a hand.
Lovely.

I like holding your hand.

I might just go on holding
your hand.You're welcome.

I might just go on holding
your hand.You're welcome.

But then my fiancee will be jealous.
No, of course she will.

But then my fiancee will be jealous.
No, of course she will.

You go ahead.
All right.

That is the Nabataean Theatre,
which is the only one in the world

That is the Nabataean Theatre,
which is the only one in the world

That is the Nabataean Theatre,
which is the only one in the world

cut out of one piece of rock.

And there's enough room
for about 3,000 people.

What are the poles
in the back of it around?

What are the poles
in the back of it around?

I strongly believe these were boxes
to amplify the sound.

I strongly believe these were boxes
to amplify the sound.

Acoustic?
Acoustics, yes.

Well, fascinating.

Can you imagine the sound when
a performance was going on here?

Can you imagine the sound when
a performance was going on here?

JOANNA GASPS

Yep.
Oh, look at this.

Yep.
Oh, look at this.

And these are all minerals.

And was this something originally?
Yes.

And was this something originally?
Yes.

This, I believe, was a public spa.
A spa?

This, I believe, was a public spa.
A spa?

Mm-hm.
The lower ones with low temperature.

Mm-hm.
The lower ones with low temperature.

The high ones with higher
temperatures. How sophisticated.

The high ones with higher
temperatures. How sophisticated.

Look at this,
and a place for sitting.Mm-hm.

Look at this,
and a place for sitting.Mm-hm.

There, you can see the pomegranates.
Would you like to have some? Yeah.

There, you can see the pomegranates.
Would you like to have some? Yeah.

Salam alaikum.
Salam.

Shakran. Thank you.

Gosh, that's gorgeous.
Mm-hm. Do you fancy a shisha?

Gosh, that's gorgeous.
Mm-hm. Do you fancy a shisha?

I've seen these,
but I've never had one.

I've seen these,
but I've never had one.

How does it taste like?

It's lovely.
Yeah?

It's odd, cos you draw it
straight into your lungs.Hm.

It's odd, cos you draw it
straight into your lungs.Hm.

You can avoid that if you want.

I don't want to avoid it.
You don't want to. OK.

I don't want to avoid it.
You don't want to. OK.

This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."

This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."

But I'm obviously not
gonna say that.

But I'm obviously not
gonna say that.

'But don't, anyway.'

Pretty cool, having a shisha pipe
with some pomegranate juice,

Pretty cool, having a shisha pipe
with some pomegranate juice,

just looking out over Petra.
Mm-hm.

just looking out over Petra.
Mm-hm.

What a magic thing.

I can hardly believe it,

but I've come to the end
of this enormous adventure

but I've come to the end
of this enormous adventure

following the spice trail
across the world.

following the spice trail
across the world.

And just to remind you of some of
the thrilling places we've been -

And just to remind you of some of
the thrilling places we've been -

Indonesia, the Banda Islands -
Pala nutmegs,

Indonesia, the Banda Islands -
Pala nutmegs,

and the great nutmeg picker,
that snagged around the nutmeg,

and the great nutmeg picker,
that snagged around the nutmeg,

and it plopped it in... like that.

and it plopped it in... like that.

After that, we went to India,
the land of all kinds of spices,

After that, we went to India,
the land of all kinds of spices,

particularly black pepper.

So I've got a little basket here.

I'm gonna take those back

and grind them over all my food
in London for evermore.

and grind them over all my food
in London for evermore.

And then in Madagascar,
the country of vanilla.

And then in Madagascar,
the country of vanilla.

This is the finest vanilla, and...

This is the finest vanilla, and...

gosh, it smells completely gorgeous.

gosh, it smells completely gorgeous.

And then we went to Zanzibar.

And then we went to Zanzibar.

And Zanzibar
was what really caught my heart

And Zanzibar
was what really caught my heart

because it's where
the great dhows were,

because it's where
the great dhows were,

the ships that were bringing things
all across the ocean

the ships that were bringing things
all across the ocean

since time began.

So I've wrapped them
in a piece of seawater from there.

So I've wrapped them
in a piece of seawater from there.

The turquoise,
the dark blue from beyond the reef,

The turquoise,
the dark blue from beyond the reef,

and the light, light blue
in the middle.

and the light, light blue
in the middle.

And this dear little dhow sailing
all these spices to come to Petra,

And this dear little dhow sailing
all these spices to come to Petra,

And this dear little dhow sailing
all these spices to come to Petra,

where they're going to be traded
all around the world.

where they're going to be traded
all around the world.

This is the story of spices,

but it's a story of men and ideas,
and above all, adventure.

but it's a story of men and ideas,
and above all, adventure.

Sail on, little boat.

Sail on, little boat.

Sail on on these rocks in Petra.

Sail on on these rocks in Petra.

Subtitles by accessibility@itv.com