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Around 400 years ago,
a Spanish nobleman
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00:00:10,836 --> 00:00:12,621
set sail for the New World.
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00:00:12,664 --> 00:00:16,364
His name--Lorenzo Longoria.
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00:00:16,407 --> 00:00:18,670
My ancestor's arrival
in the Port of Veracruz,
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00:00:18,714 --> 00:00:21,717
along with millions of others
through the centuries,
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00:00:21,760 --> 00:00:24,372
changed history,
creating modern Mexico,
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00:00:24,415 --> 00:00:27,244
and a gateway between it
and the rest of the world.
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00:00:27,288 --> 00:00:30,813
This is the cradle of Mexico.
Everything started here.
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00:00:30,856 --> 00:00:33,163
It's also the cradle
of Mexican gastronomy
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00:00:33,207 --> 00:00:36,601
because all ingredients
landed in this spot.
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00:00:36,645 --> 00:00:39,822
And all the ingredients
from Mexico left from here--
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00:00:39,865 --> 00:00:42,390
chocolate, vanilla,
the tomato.
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00:00:42,433 --> 00:00:45,828
Can you imagine Italian
cuisine without the tomato
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00:00:45,871 --> 00:00:49,223
or French pastries without
chocolate and vanilla?
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00:00:49,266 --> 00:00:50,224
Impossible.
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00:00:52,835 --> 00:00:54,967
The people of Veracruz
took this treasure trove
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00:00:55,011 --> 00:00:58,058
of ingredients passing
in and out of the port
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00:00:58,101 --> 00:01:00,234
and created
a whole new cuisine.
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00:01:03,585 --> 00:01:05,065
Wow.
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00:01:05,108 --> 00:01:07,806
I'm Eva Longoria,
born and bred in Texas
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00:01:07,850 --> 00:01:11,593
with Mexican-American roots,
which makes me a Texican.
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00:01:11,636 --> 00:01:14,683
I'm exploring Mexico to see
how the people, their lands,
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00:01:14,726 --> 00:01:17,773
and their past have shaped
a culinary tradition
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00:01:17,816 --> 00:01:20,950
as diverse as its 32 states.
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00:01:24,997 --> 00:01:27,261
The port's
strategic position saw
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00:01:27,304 --> 00:01:29,915
Veracruzanos fight off
repeated invasions
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00:01:29,959 --> 00:01:31,700
right into the 20th century.
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00:01:34,964 --> 00:01:37,140
But this history of conflict,
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00:01:37,184 --> 00:01:40,056
from Indigenous power
struggles to African slavery,
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00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:42,058
created a cultural Big Bang...
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00:01:46,802 --> 00:01:48,760
With a legacy
of strong flavors...
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00:01:48,804 --> 00:01:49,935
Oh, my God.
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00:01:49,979 --> 00:01:51,285
Pioneered by strong women.
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00:01:55,767 --> 00:01:57,421
I will.
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00:01:57,465 --> 00:02:00,903
Veracruzanos are famous
for their defiant spirit.
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00:02:00,946 --> 00:02:03,210
We're known as...
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00:02:04,950 --> 00:02:07,214
Matched only
by a lust for life.
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00:02:09,651 --> 00:02:12,306
Oh, so don't forget to pack
your dancing shoes.
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00:02:37,244 --> 00:02:40,812
This is the exact spot my
13th great-grandfather landed,
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00:02:40,856 --> 00:02:42,858
right here in the
Port of Veracruz from Spain.
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00:02:42,901 --> 00:02:44,033
He was 11 years old,
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00:02:44,076 --> 00:02:46,035
so it's kind of amazing
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00:02:46,078 --> 00:02:48,168
I'm walking in his
footsteps right now.
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00:02:48,211 --> 00:02:50,605
And I'm going to discover
the diversity
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00:02:50,648 --> 00:02:53,347
that Veracruz has to offer.
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00:02:53,390 --> 00:02:56,219
Only 60 miles wide,
Veracruz stretches
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00:02:56,263 --> 00:02:59,309
some 400 miles
along the Gulf Coast.
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00:03:01,268 --> 00:03:05,272
These warm waters are home
to around 120 species of fish.
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00:03:06,838 --> 00:03:09,972
But fishermen have been
selling just five of them,
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00:03:10,015 --> 00:03:12,975
bringing them close
to extinction.
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00:03:13,018 --> 00:03:15,151
Now an award-winning chef
is campaigning
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00:03:15,195 --> 00:03:17,153
to cast the net wider.
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00:03:21,940 --> 00:03:23,942
Hola!
Eva, ¿cómo estás?
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00:03:23,986 --> 00:03:25,814
Muy bien.
55
00:03:27,903 --> 00:03:28,947
Gracias.
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00:03:28,991 --> 00:03:31,820
This is a beautiful restaurant.
57
00:03:31,863 --> 00:03:33,300
Erick Guerrero left
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00:03:33,343 --> 00:03:35,954
Mexico City's world-famous
Pujol restaurant
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00:03:35,998 --> 00:03:38,043
to return home
on a one-man mission
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00:03:38,087 --> 00:03:42,787
to transform the fishing
industry in Veracruz.
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00:03:42,831 --> 00:03:45,181
So this was caught
this morning?
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00:03:45,225 --> 00:03:48,184
And what
type of fish is this?
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00:03:48,228 --> 00:03:49,490
Okay.
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00:03:49,533 --> 00:03:51,318
I know it's not
the prettiest thing,
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00:03:51,361 --> 00:03:54,625
but Erick's not one to judge
by appearances.
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00:03:54,669 --> 00:03:55,800
Okay...
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00:03:59,891 --> 00:04:02,242
It's a lazy fish.
Flojo, muy flojo.
68
00:04:07,943 --> 00:04:09,249
Yeah.
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00:04:11,599 --> 00:04:13,514
Why do you care so much...
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00:04:34,274 --> 00:04:35,666
What are we going to make
with the fish?
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00:04:35,710 --> 00:04:36,928
Un ceviche.
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00:04:36,972 --> 00:04:39,191
Oh, I love ceviche.
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00:04:39,235 --> 00:04:40,845
What's the name?
Boquilla.
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00:04:40,889 --> 00:04:42,107
- Boquilla.
- Boquilla.
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00:04:42,151 --> 00:04:43,979
Of course,
for his mouth.
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00:04:44,022 --> 00:04:45,807
Also known as sailor's grunt,
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00:04:45,850 --> 00:04:49,637
this guy might not be
an obvious choice for ceviche,
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00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:51,508
but it's got Erick's vote.
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00:04:59,777 --> 00:05:01,953
Look at that.
That's beautiful.
80
00:05:03,346 --> 00:05:06,131
It doesn't even smell
like fish.
81
00:05:09,004 --> 00:05:10,092
Yep.
82
00:05:10,135 --> 00:05:12,094
A little onion and jicama...
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00:05:12,137 --> 00:05:14,009
I love jicama 'cause
it gives a good crunch.
84
00:05:15,924 --> 00:05:17,317
Okay.
85
00:05:17,360 --> 00:05:19,406
A drizzle of lemon oil...
86
00:05:24,498 --> 00:05:25,325
What?
87
00:05:25,368 --> 00:05:27,588
I love frijoles in anything!
88
00:05:29,024 --> 00:05:30,417
But are they hot?
89
00:05:40,688 --> 00:05:42,124
Uh-huh.
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00:05:44,169 --> 00:05:46,041
Some avocado and dressing...
91
00:05:46,084 --> 00:05:47,085
¿Así?
92
00:05:47,129 --> 00:05:49,349
Oh, that's so beautiful!
93
00:05:50,785 --> 00:05:51,829
Okay.
94
00:05:51,873 --> 00:05:53,918
And we're done.
95
00:05:53,962 --> 00:05:56,921
Do I just scoop it,
or what happens?
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00:05:59,141 --> 00:06:00,577
Exacto.
97
00:06:04,886 --> 00:06:06,453
Mmm.
98
00:06:06,496 --> 00:06:08,280
Oh, my God.
99
00:06:08,324 --> 00:06:09,760
This has changed my life.
100
00:06:09,804 --> 00:06:13,547
I'm now going to make
ceviche with frijoles forever.
101
00:06:13,590 --> 00:06:15,897
This is amazing.
102
00:06:15,940 --> 00:06:19,204
For me, the contrast
of hot beans with cold ceviche
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00:06:19,248 --> 00:06:21,468
is a revelation.
104
00:06:21,511 --> 00:06:23,252
And who would have thought
those ugly fish
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00:06:23,295 --> 00:06:25,733
could taste so exquisite?
106
00:06:25,776 --> 00:06:28,779
But apparently there's more.
107
00:06:28,823 --> 00:06:31,695
These are soft-shell crabs?
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00:06:31,739 --> 00:06:33,088
Uh-huh.
109
00:06:33,131 --> 00:06:36,265
But this is the most popular.
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00:06:36,308 --> 00:06:38,702
These blue crabs
must be caught
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00:06:38,746 --> 00:06:41,009
just before they shed
their exoskeleton
112
00:06:41,052 --> 00:06:43,881
and then cooked straight after
while they're still soft.
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00:06:46,057 --> 00:06:47,494
Oh, my God.
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00:06:51,454 --> 00:06:54,370
Oh, look at that.
That's gorgeous.
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00:06:58,722 --> 00:07:01,769
- So the tamarindo goes first?
- Exacto.
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00:07:01,812 --> 00:07:04,859
Soft-shell crabs thrive
in warm waters of the Gulf,
117
00:07:04,902 --> 00:07:06,600
making them an easy catch--
118
00:07:06,643 --> 00:07:09,429
not a bad thing
from where I'm standing.
119
00:07:11,996 --> 00:07:13,433
Uh-huh.
120
00:07:19,917 --> 00:07:22,703
Ooh, purple onion.
121
00:07:22,746 --> 00:07:24,618
Chile.
122
00:07:24,661 --> 00:07:27,447
It wouldn't be Mexican
if there wasn't chile y limón.
123
00:07:30,275 --> 00:07:31,929
- Ahí vamos. Ahí vamos.
- Ahí vamos.
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00:07:31,973 --> 00:07:33,409
It's so crispy.
125
00:07:40,938 --> 00:07:42,549
Wow.
126
00:07:42,592 --> 00:07:45,639
That's a great combination--
the tamarindo with the crab.
127
00:07:45,682 --> 00:07:47,423
So refreshing.
128
00:07:48,859 --> 00:07:50,208
No.
129
00:07:50,252 --> 00:07:52,167
What do you
want the world to know
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00:07:52,210 --> 00:07:54,256
about the cuisine of Veracruz?
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00:08:02,830 --> 00:08:06,747
Eso.
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00:08:06,790 --> 00:08:09,489
Erick's passion for cooking
with every type of fish
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00:08:09,532 --> 00:08:12,230
from Veracruz makes him a hero
in my book,
134
00:08:12,274 --> 00:08:13,536
and I'll drink to that.
135
00:08:29,813 --> 00:08:31,380
I love coffee.
136
00:08:31,423 --> 00:08:35,819
And it came to Mexico
via, yep, Veracruz.
137
00:08:35,863 --> 00:08:39,693
It arrived here from the
Caribbean in the 18th century
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00:08:39,736 --> 00:08:42,870
before passing on
throughout Latin America.
139
00:08:42,913 --> 00:08:46,090
I enjoy it best with friends.
140
00:08:47,744 --> 00:08:50,530
Likemi amiga,
actress Ana de la Reguera.
141
00:08:50,573 --> 00:08:54,055
¿Cómo estás?
How are you?
142
00:08:54,098 --> 00:08:56,797
I know! I'm so excited
that you're here!
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00:08:56,840 --> 00:09:00,061
I can't believe it.
This is a crazy-busy place.
144
00:09:00,104 --> 00:09:03,412
La Parroquia, said to be
Mexico's oldest cafe,
145
00:09:03,455 --> 00:09:05,849
is one of Ana's
favorite haunts.
146
00:09:05,893 --> 00:09:08,025
So Veracruz
is super special to you.
147
00:09:08,069 --> 00:09:11,202
Obviously, you're from here.
Yes, I was born here.
148
00:09:11,246 --> 00:09:13,074
And my family's still here.
149
00:09:13,117 --> 00:09:16,033
What does the rest of Mexico
think of Veracruz?
150
00:09:16,077 --> 00:09:18,906
We are known as...
151
00:09:20,081 --> 00:09:21,256
Because I guess
we're prankers,
152
00:09:21,299 --> 00:09:24,694
and we're always saying,
like...
153
00:09:24,738 --> 00:09:25,913
So, okay.
154
00:09:25,956 --> 00:09:28,219
So we are known because
of our sense of humor.
155
00:09:28,263 --> 00:09:29,525
Sense of humor.
156
00:09:29,569 --> 00:09:30,744
We're very good
also at dancing.
157
00:09:30,787 --> 00:09:32,963
The danzónis from here.
Salsa.
158
00:09:33,007 --> 00:09:35,749
- Everything started here.
- Exactly. Exactly.
159
00:09:35,792 --> 00:09:38,099
A lot of first things
happened here.
160
00:09:38,142 --> 00:09:39,404
You know, the conquis--
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00:09:39,448 --> 00:09:40,754
you know, the Spanish
came through Veracruz.
162
00:09:40,797 --> 00:09:43,278
The coffee--that's why coffee,
the first place.
163
00:09:43,321 --> 00:09:44,235
Hi!
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00:09:44,279 --> 00:09:46,368
Oh, my God.
165
00:09:50,198 --> 00:09:51,939
- Okay.
- Perfecto.
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00:09:51,982 --> 00:09:54,071
Exactly!
167
00:09:54,115 --> 00:09:55,551
- Yay!
- So...
168
00:09:55,595 --> 00:09:57,771
- I'm a Veracruzana.
- There he is.
169
00:09:57,814 --> 00:09:58,815
Oh, that was fast.
170
00:09:58,859 --> 00:09:59,903
¿Es leche?
That's leche.
171
00:09:59,947 --> 00:10:01,644
Okay.
172
00:10:01,688 --> 00:10:03,428
You can tell him
how much milk that you have.
173
00:10:03,472 --> 00:10:04,691
Ya, ya, ya, ya.
174
00:10:11,262 --> 00:10:13,134
This is so fun.
175
00:10:13,177 --> 00:10:15,832
Ringing the glass
with a spoon is a tradition
176
00:10:15,876 --> 00:10:19,575
that started way back
in the late 19th century,
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00:10:19,619 --> 00:10:22,491
when tram drivers in the port
rang their bells
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00:10:22,534 --> 00:10:25,625
to order a coffee
as they passed.
179
00:10:25,668 --> 00:10:27,148
Mmm.
180
00:10:27,191 --> 00:10:28,932
- Is it good?
- Oh, my God.
181
00:10:28,976 --> 00:10:31,326
I really recommend you
to go to the coffee fields.
182
00:10:31,369 --> 00:10:32,544
Where are they?
183
00:10:32,588 --> 00:10:34,024
In the mountains?
In the mountains.
184
00:10:34,068 --> 00:10:36,244
No, I'm definitely going
to go see the coffee fields.
185
00:10:36,287 --> 00:10:37,985
That's, like...
Yes.
186
00:10:38,028 --> 00:10:39,682
Top of my list.
187
00:10:39,726 --> 00:10:41,945
Well, you don't need
to tell me twice.
188
00:10:41,989 --> 00:10:45,035
This is so beautiful.
189
00:10:45,079 --> 00:10:46,733
After coffee arrived here,
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00:10:46,776 --> 00:10:50,171
Veracruzanos took it inland
to cultivate it,
191
00:10:50,214 --> 00:10:51,825
where it flourished,
192
00:10:51,868 --> 00:10:54,088
before exporting it back
to the rest of the world.
193
00:11:00,355 --> 00:11:03,706
This landscape is amazing.
194
00:11:03,750 --> 00:11:05,752
I don't feel like
I'm in Mexico.
195
00:11:05,795 --> 00:11:07,754
I feel like I'm
in an Amazon rain forest.
196
00:11:09,843 --> 00:11:13,890
Today Veracruz produces around
a quarter of Mexico's coffee,
197
00:11:13,934 --> 00:11:17,981
which thrives in the shade
and altitude of mountain areas
198
00:11:18,025 --> 00:11:20,375
like Coetzala.
199
00:11:20,418 --> 00:11:22,203
The cooler temperatures
up here
200
00:11:22,246 --> 00:11:23,595
slow the growth of the beans,
201
00:11:23,639 --> 00:11:25,989
making them sweeter
and more dense,
202
00:11:26,033 --> 00:11:30,037
and the denser the bean,
the better the flavor.
203
00:11:30,080 --> 00:11:31,038
Hola.
Hola.
204
00:11:31,081 --> 00:11:32,430
Hi, Eva.
How are you?
205
00:11:32,474 --> 00:11:34,389
Muy bien.
Nice to meet you.
206
00:11:34,432 --> 00:11:37,087
- Welcome to Coetzala.
- Thank you.
207
00:11:37,131 --> 00:11:39,133
And this is a coffee field.
208
00:11:39,176 --> 00:11:40,612
My guide, Itzel Mendoza,
209
00:11:40,656 --> 00:11:42,614
is passionate
about these coffee fields
210
00:11:42,658 --> 00:11:45,574
and supporting local women
in agriculture.
211
00:11:45,617 --> 00:11:48,055
This is the plant
of the coffee--look.
212
00:11:48,098 --> 00:11:50,100
Oh, my God, look at this.
Oh, is this a bean?
213
00:11:50,144 --> 00:11:52,755
- Yes. That's a bean.
- Oh, I found one already.
214
00:11:52,799 --> 00:11:54,452
Yes.
215
00:11:54,496 --> 00:11:57,238
In the 1990s, coffee prices
plummeted,
216
00:11:57,281 --> 00:11:59,936
driving farmers to the U.S.
in search of work
217
00:11:59,980 --> 00:12:03,070
and leaving many women behind
to fend for themselves.
218
00:12:03,113 --> 00:12:06,595
A lot of men--
they went to the north,
219
00:12:06,638 --> 00:12:09,076
and these coffee fields
were no--
220
00:12:09,119 --> 00:12:10,512
- Abandoned.
- Yes, abandoned.
221
00:12:10,555 --> 00:12:13,254
And then the "womens,"
they said, "What we do?
222
00:12:13,297 --> 00:12:16,083
We go, or we stay in our land?"
223
00:12:16,126 --> 00:12:18,520
We grew coffee.
224
00:12:19,913 --> 00:12:22,785
And this kind of coffee
is very interesting
225
00:12:22,829 --> 00:12:24,744
because we have, like,
a lot of flowers
226
00:12:24,787 --> 00:12:26,310
that we're going to cook today.
227
00:12:26,354 --> 00:12:28,095
- Oh, we can eat the flowers?
- Yes.
228
00:12:28,138 --> 00:12:29,923
Oh.
Okay.
229
00:12:29,966 --> 00:12:32,577
These are the flowers
of San Lorenzo.
230
00:12:32,621 --> 00:12:35,319
- Oh, San Lorenzo.
- So maybe you can cut.
231
00:12:35,363 --> 00:12:36,756
Okay.
Oh, Lord.
232
00:12:36,799 --> 00:12:38,322
Okay, I hate when it's, like--
233
00:12:38,366 --> 00:12:41,804
the high pressure of, like,
there's one plant that grows.
234
00:12:41,848 --> 00:12:44,285
How long does it take to grow?
Like, one year.
235
00:12:44,328 --> 00:12:45,590
Oh, just a year.
236
00:12:45,634 --> 00:12:47,418
Okay.
Down here?
237
00:12:47,462 --> 00:12:48,985
- Yes, yes.
- Okay.
238
00:12:49,029 --> 00:12:50,508
Perfect.
239
00:12:50,552 --> 00:12:52,075
But the coffee
isn't the only thing
240
00:12:52,119 --> 00:12:54,208
full of flavor around here.
241
00:12:54,251 --> 00:12:58,473
Apparently these shade-grown
flowers are also delicious.
242
00:12:58,516 --> 00:13:00,257
And we're going to cook them
in a stew.
243
00:13:14,489 --> 00:13:17,013
Yeah?
Sí, sí.
244
00:13:17,057 --> 00:13:21,148
It might not seem
an obvious combination...
245
00:13:21,191 --> 00:13:23,498
but as well as being packed
with vitamins,
246
00:13:23,541 --> 00:13:26,196
the sweetness
of these izote petals
247
00:13:26,240 --> 00:13:27,589
enhances the flavor
248
00:13:27,632 --> 00:13:29,678
of the tomato,
onion, and garlic broth.
249
00:13:31,723 --> 00:13:34,422
And dough balls
help thicken the stew.
250
00:13:41,211 --> 00:13:43,953
Oh, that's beautiful.
251
00:13:43,997 --> 00:13:46,782
The tesmole will be served
alongside a salsa
252
00:13:46,826 --> 00:13:49,654
made with the San Lorenzo
flower I picked...
253
00:13:51,308 --> 00:13:54,442
And some palm flowers dipped
in a light batter and fried
254
00:13:54,485 --> 00:13:56,183
till crisp.
255
00:13:56,226 --> 00:13:58,141
Okay.
Okay, vamos.
256
00:13:58,185 --> 00:13:59,577
Vamos.
257
00:14:04,887 --> 00:14:07,498
Oh, my God,
look at these little petals.
258
00:14:09,892 --> 00:14:10,937
Ooh!
259
00:14:13,809 --> 00:14:16,464
You can feel the fragrance
from the petals.
260
00:14:16,507 --> 00:14:17,639
Yes.
261
00:14:25,212 --> 00:14:26,561
Mm.
262
00:14:36,092 --> 00:14:37,572
I love that.
263
00:14:39,313 --> 00:14:40,792
Mmm!
264
00:14:40,836 --> 00:14:42,925
To me, the palm-flower fritter
265
00:14:42,969 --> 00:14:45,275
has a sweet and sour
zucchini taste.
266
00:14:45,319 --> 00:14:47,147
Amazing texture.
267
00:14:47,190 --> 00:14:49,410
Oh, I love this texture.
268
00:14:49,453 --> 00:14:50,977
The women of Coetzala
269
00:14:51,020 --> 00:14:52,935
may have been
left to fight for survival,
270
00:14:52,979 --> 00:14:54,981
but I think
their resourcefulness
271
00:14:55,024 --> 00:14:57,722
has not only led
to a wonderful way of cooking,
272
00:14:57,766 --> 00:15:02,423
but it's also given them
strength and stature,
273
00:15:02,466 --> 00:15:05,730
just like the flowers
of the coffee fields.
274
00:15:05,774 --> 00:15:08,472
Oh, my gosh, this is so good.
275
00:15:22,791 --> 00:15:27,100
♪ Bamba, bamba ♪
276
00:15:27,143 --> 00:15:29,885
I love that the church
bells is "La Bamba."
277
00:15:31,887 --> 00:15:33,367
I grew up listening
to "La Bamba,"
278
00:15:33,410 --> 00:15:36,457
but I had no idea the roots
of this folk song
279
00:15:36,500 --> 00:15:38,546
go back to the 18th century
280
00:15:38,589 --> 00:15:41,462
and the quarter of a million
enslaved Africans
281
00:15:41,505 --> 00:15:43,290
who were brought to Veracruz.
282
00:15:43,333 --> 00:15:45,857
These African
cultural influences,
283
00:15:45,901 --> 00:15:48,469
surviving two centuries
of the slave trade,
284
00:15:48,512 --> 00:15:51,385
blended with those
of the Indigenous people,
285
00:15:51,428 --> 00:15:52,734
as well as the Spanish,
286
00:15:52,777 --> 00:15:54,997
like my ancestor
Lorenzo Longoria,
287
00:15:55,041 --> 00:15:57,260
and today neighborhoods
around the port
288
00:15:57,304 --> 00:15:59,959
reflect this unique mix
of cultures.
289
00:16:00,002 --> 00:16:01,656
Hola.
Hola, Eva.
290
00:16:01,699 --> 00:16:04,311
- Mucho gusto.
- Qué gusto.
291
00:16:04,354 --> 00:16:06,966
- Welcome to Veracruz.
- Muchas gracias.
292
00:16:07,009 --> 00:16:08,793
I'm meeting
with food historian
293
00:16:08,837 --> 00:16:10,665
Nidia Hernández Medel.
294
00:16:10,708 --> 00:16:12,493
She's written a book
on local cuisine
295
00:16:12,536 --> 00:16:14,974
and is my guide to La Huaca.
296
00:17:03,283 --> 00:17:06,199
It's impossible to overstate
the impact of African culture
297
00:17:06,242 --> 00:17:07,635
on this region.
298
00:17:07,678 --> 00:17:09,724
But even at the peak
of the slave trade,
299
00:17:09,767 --> 00:17:11,508
there was resistance.
300
00:17:11,552 --> 00:17:16,470
In 1631, a group of rebel
slaves led by Gaspar Yanga,
301
00:17:16,513 --> 00:17:20,300
won the right to live as free
people in their own region.
302
00:17:22,215 --> 00:17:24,913
It was a small
but significant victory,
303
00:17:24,956 --> 00:17:27,655
given it would take another
two centuries
304
00:17:27,698 --> 00:17:30,005
before slavery ended
in Mexico.
305
00:17:40,407 --> 00:17:41,321
Sí.
306
00:17:54,116 --> 00:17:55,161
Sí.
307
00:18:06,433 --> 00:18:07,390
Wow.
308
00:18:10,828 --> 00:18:12,091
Yuca frita.
309
00:18:14,267 --> 00:18:15,137
Okay.
310
00:18:25,365 --> 00:18:27,106
So they're both roots.
311
00:18:28,324 --> 00:18:29,369
Así es.
312
00:18:31,066 --> 00:18:33,503
Africans missed the yams
of their homeland
313
00:18:33,547 --> 00:18:38,378
but discovered the similar
Latin American yuca.
314
00:18:38,421 --> 00:18:41,294
Ever since, it's been used
for popular dishes
315
00:18:41,337 --> 00:18:44,123
like crispy fried yuca
with garlic.
316
00:18:50,433 --> 00:18:52,392
- ¿Sí? Qué bueno.
- Sí.
317
00:18:56,352 --> 00:18:58,572
¿Sí?
318
00:18:58,615 --> 00:19:01,749
Mama Yuca?
319
00:19:06,232 --> 00:19:07,798
¿Sí?
Sí.
320
00:19:10,540 --> 00:19:12,368
Of course,
it goes without saying
321
00:19:12,412 --> 00:19:15,284
that plantain fritters
are also on the menu.
322
00:19:20,768 --> 00:19:22,552
Introduced by the Spanish,
323
00:19:22,596 --> 00:19:26,034
the trees provided shade for
valuable crops like coffee.
324
00:19:26,077 --> 00:19:30,212
The leftover fruit was used
to feed enslaved communities.
325
00:19:34,521 --> 00:19:36,044
We smash them,
326
00:19:36,087 --> 00:19:38,177
and then we're going to
put them back in the oil.
327
00:19:38,220 --> 00:19:41,267
Okay.
Back in the pan they go.
328
00:19:51,364 --> 00:19:54,018
They're like potato chips.
You can't eat just one.
329
00:19:56,238 --> 00:19:58,284
Mmm. Wow.
330
00:20:19,348 --> 00:20:20,262
Mm-hmm.
331
00:20:30,316 --> 00:20:31,578
Sí.
332
00:20:31,621 --> 00:20:33,449
Oh, muchas gracias.
333
00:20:37,627 --> 00:20:39,977
Aquí está.
Whoa.
334
00:20:40,021 --> 00:20:41,805
- Te ayudo.
- Vamos.
335
00:20:48,159 --> 00:20:49,160
Wow!
336
00:20:54,514 --> 00:20:55,950
This blend of African,
337
00:20:55,993 --> 00:20:58,257
Indigenous,
and Spanish influences
338
00:20:58,300 --> 00:21:00,346
extends
from Veracruzanos' cooking
339
00:21:00,389 --> 00:21:04,437
to the music
of the fandango...
340
00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:08,049
which originally was a form
of protest music.
341
00:21:09,398 --> 00:21:12,575
And I find the passion
and rebellion it conveys
342
00:21:12,619 --> 00:21:14,838
contagious.
343
00:21:14,882 --> 00:21:16,187
But let's face it.
344
00:21:16,231 --> 00:21:18,102
I'm not one
to stand by and watch.
345
00:21:21,367 --> 00:21:25,632
This seductively feisty
culture shouts resistance...
346
00:21:28,678 --> 00:21:29,984
The Veracruzano way.
347
00:21:33,814 --> 00:21:38,079
Vamos.
348
00:21:38,122 --> 00:21:40,821
Muchas gracias!
349
00:21:48,437 --> 00:21:51,440
So I've traveled north
from the Port of Veracruz
350
00:21:51,484 --> 00:21:55,923
to the region
where vanilla originates.
351
00:21:55,966 --> 00:21:58,752
This is where
the plant is from.
352
00:21:58,795 --> 00:22:00,188
I'm so excited.
353
00:22:00,231 --> 00:22:02,277
I'm probably
the biggest fan of vanilla.
354
00:22:02,321 --> 00:22:06,107
I've been looking forward
to this moment for a long time.
355
00:22:06,150 --> 00:22:08,762
They say good things
come to those who wait,
356
00:22:08,805 --> 00:22:11,373
and the prized vanilla bean
from Veracruz
357
00:22:11,417 --> 00:22:14,463
is definitely one
of those things.
358
00:22:16,204 --> 00:22:18,162
I don't think I've ever seen
so many vanilla beans
359
00:22:18,206 --> 00:22:19,947
in one place.
Yeah.
360
00:22:19,990 --> 00:22:22,297
Yeah, it's from Mexico--
the best aroma.
361
00:22:22,341 --> 00:22:24,386
I've been invited here
by Norma Gaya,
362
00:22:24,430 --> 00:22:26,736
from Mexico's
oldest vanilla family,
363
00:22:26,780 --> 00:22:29,696
who have been harvesting it
for hundreds of years.
364
00:22:29,739 --> 00:22:31,350
And she is the first woman
365
00:22:31,393 --> 00:22:33,177
to take charge
of the business.
366
00:22:33,221 --> 00:22:36,877
So, if vanilla is endemic
to Mexico,
367
00:22:36,920 --> 00:22:38,661
is Mexico
the number-one producer?
368
00:22:38,705 --> 00:22:40,315
No.
369
00:22:40,359 --> 00:22:42,186
Turns out that Madagascar
produces about 80%
370
00:22:42,230 --> 00:22:43,710
of the world's vanilla.
371
00:22:43,753 --> 00:22:45,059
But guess what.
372
00:22:45,102 --> 00:22:47,191
It was Veracruz
that gave it to them.
373
00:22:47,235 --> 00:22:50,107
It's more expensive
than in Madagascar.
374
00:22:50,151 --> 00:22:52,675
- 'Cause it's the best?
- Yeah, it's the best.
375
00:22:52,719 --> 00:22:54,285
Of course it's the best.
376
00:22:54,329 --> 00:22:58,115
And now here, you can see
how they are taking care
377
00:22:58,159 --> 00:23:00,291
of each vanilla beans.
378
00:23:00,335 --> 00:23:01,467
To cut each vanilla bean.
379
00:23:01,510 --> 00:23:03,686
Each vanilla bean,
just to be sure.
380
00:23:07,429 --> 00:23:10,737
It can get infected
with something?
381
00:23:10,780 --> 00:23:13,870
So she has to cut the tip off.
Exactamente.
382
00:23:13,914 --> 00:23:15,176
Wow.
383
00:23:15,219 --> 00:23:17,700
Very labor intensive.
384
00:23:17,744 --> 00:23:20,747
And that's just the tip
of the vanilla bean.
385
00:23:20,790 --> 00:23:22,705
Wait till you hear
what it takes to create it
386
00:23:22,749 --> 00:23:24,185
in the first place.
387
00:23:29,408 --> 00:23:30,844
This is
the vanilla plantation.
388
00:23:30,887 --> 00:23:32,280
Is it just this one?
389
00:23:32,323 --> 00:23:34,238
Native to the north
of Veracruz,
390
00:23:34,282 --> 00:23:35,588
the vanilla plant
391
00:23:35,631 --> 00:23:37,938
was originally only pollinated
by bees,
392
00:23:37,981 --> 00:23:39,287
until it was discovered
393
00:23:39,330 --> 00:23:41,289
that you could do the same job
by hand.
394
00:23:41,332 --> 00:23:44,553
I never knew they were vines.
Yes.
395
00:23:44,597 --> 00:23:46,990
I don't know why I thought
it was like a bush or a plant,
396
00:23:47,034 --> 00:23:48,339
like a...
397
00:23:48,383 --> 00:23:50,429
Vanilla comes
from the seed pods
398
00:23:50,472 --> 00:23:52,561
of a hermaphrodite orchid.
399
00:23:52,605 --> 00:23:54,563
The flower
has to be pollinated
400
00:23:54,607 --> 00:23:58,828
in a single window of
a few hours, or it will die.
401
00:23:58,872 --> 00:24:01,527
Now get ready
for a bit of biology.
402
00:24:01,570 --> 00:24:03,746
The vanilla plant
is like a woman.
403
00:24:03,790 --> 00:24:04,965
Okay.
404
00:24:05,008 --> 00:24:07,794
So, if you want to pollinate,
405
00:24:07,837 --> 00:24:09,709
you need to speak very lovely.
406
00:24:11,101 --> 00:24:12,581
- And then open it.
- Uh-huh.
407
00:24:12,625 --> 00:24:16,455
And you are going to take
out the pollen from the male
408
00:24:16,498 --> 00:24:19,936
and put it inside
of the female organ.
409
00:24:19,980 --> 00:24:21,895
- So we're impregnating...
- Yes.
410
00:24:21,938 --> 00:24:23,244
The woman.
411
00:24:23,287 --> 00:24:24,854
And then you need
to wait nine months
412
00:24:24,898 --> 00:24:26,465
in order to make the crop.
413
00:24:26,508 --> 00:24:28,249
- Like a baby.
- Yes.
414
00:24:28,292 --> 00:24:31,165
And then you need to do it.
Oh, gosh, no.
415
00:24:31,208 --> 00:24:33,297
Okay, what happened--
Oh, Lord. Okay.
416
00:24:33,341 --> 00:24:34,560
- Here.
- Uh-huh.
417
00:24:34,603 --> 00:24:36,387
You see?
You need to open.
418
00:24:36,431 --> 00:24:39,086
- I open this part right here?
- Yeah.
419
00:24:39,129 --> 00:24:41,392
God, I need glasses.
420
00:24:41,436 --> 00:24:42,524
Yeah.
421
00:24:42,568 --> 00:24:44,308
Oh, God, I am not breathing.
422
00:24:44,352 --> 00:24:45,919
And that's
the male right there?
423
00:24:45,962 --> 00:24:48,008
Yeah.
So you need to open it.
424
00:24:48,051 --> 00:24:50,140
Okay.
425
00:24:50,184 --> 00:24:52,186
I don't want to up
the vanilla bean.
426
00:24:52,229 --> 00:24:53,535
Okay, okay.
427
00:24:53,579 --> 00:24:55,668
Okay, here we go.
428
00:24:55,711 --> 00:24:57,278
So I'm--
Yeah. Yes.
429
00:24:57,321 --> 00:25:00,499
There is the pollen.
Then pull it down and push it.
430
00:25:00,542 --> 00:25:02,631
- Is that it?
- Yeah.
431
00:25:02,675 --> 00:25:05,155
- Did I make vanilla baby?
- Yes.
432
00:25:07,288 --> 00:25:09,508
Feel like we need
a glass of wine.
433
00:25:09,551 --> 00:25:12,423
Yeah.
434
00:25:12,467 --> 00:25:14,164
Yay!
We did it.
435
00:25:14,208 --> 00:25:15,862
So the people
now need to do it,
436
00:25:15,905 --> 00:25:19,256
like, 5,000 per day, something
like that, for one month.
437
00:25:19,300 --> 00:25:20,823
That's so stressful.
438
00:25:20,867 --> 00:25:22,433
You have to do that
with all of these flowers?
439
00:25:22,477 --> 00:25:24,958
- Yeah.
- That's amazing.
440
00:25:25,001 --> 00:25:26,786
I'm happy I'm only doing one.
441
00:25:26,829 --> 00:25:29,658
This painstaking process
makes vanilla
442
00:25:29,702 --> 00:25:32,313
one of the most expensive
spices in the world,
443
00:25:32,356 --> 00:25:35,882
worth nearly its weight
in gold.
444
00:25:35,925 --> 00:25:38,232
This is the family house.
445
00:25:38,275 --> 00:25:42,715
Oh, this is so beautiful.
446
00:25:42,758 --> 00:25:45,195
We are going to cook chicken
with vanilla.
447
00:25:45,239 --> 00:25:46,414
Oh, my gosh.
448
00:25:46,457 --> 00:25:48,242
Is very typical dishes
in the family.
449
00:25:48,285 --> 00:25:49,635
And here it is.
Here's the bean.
450
00:25:49,678 --> 00:25:52,028
- Yes. Yes.
- And what is this?
451
00:25:52,072 --> 00:25:53,508
Natas.
452
00:25:53,552 --> 00:25:55,162
Nata is the thick,
butter-like cream
453
00:25:55,205 --> 00:25:58,557
that forms on the top of milk
after it's been boiled.
454
00:25:58,600 --> 00:26:01,560
Here, yes, it's
a typical ingredient.
455
00:26:01,603 --> 00:26:03,431
And do we put
the vanilla in here?
456
00:26:03,474 --> 00:26:06,260
- Yes.
- Now we're talking.
457
00:26:06,303 --> 00:26:10,960
It's like gold. This is like--
Yeah, it's a black gold.
458
00:26:11,004 --> 00:26:13,006
Mmm.
That's amazing.
459
00:26:13,049 --> 00:26:15,356
I put it in here?
Yes.
460
00:26:15,399 --> 00:26:18,707
It's so vibrant--
just that small amount.
461
00:26:18,751 --> 00:26:20,056
And vanilla extract?
Some vanilla extract.
462
00:26:20,100 --> 00:26:21,841
Uh-huh.
463
00:26:21,884 --> 00:26:23,843
And this is your vanilla
extract from the vanilla bean.
464
00:26:23,886 --> 00:26:26,236
- Yes. Yes.
- Yes.
465
00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:29,936
Now we add braised onions
to this hot, creamy mixture.
466
00:26:29,979 --> 00:26:32,199
Wow.
Ready.
467
00:26:32,242 --> 00:26:34,418
Okay.
Now we go to blend it?
468
00:26:34,462 --> 00:26:36,029
Yeah.
469
00:26:36,072 --> 00:26:38,205
Because this is going to be
the sauce of the chicken?
470
00:26:38,248 --> 00:26:39,641
Yes.
471
00:26:39,685 --> 00:26:41,556
Flavoring savory dishes
with vanilla
472
00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,471
is a thing around here.
473
00:26:43,514 --> 00:26:45,952
I've never had chicken
with vanilla.
474
00:26:45,995 --> 00:26:49,477
Inspired by Norma's
great-grandfather's recipe,
475
00:26:49,520 --> 00:26:51,348
the sauce is added
to chicken pieces
476
00:26:51,392 --> 00:26:53,350
gently sauteed in butter.
477
00:26:54,961 --> 00:26:58,834
So what was it like growing up
in a vanilla family?
478
00:27:11,020 --> 00:27:14,328
Of the process, of jobs...
479
00:27:14,371 --> 00:27:16,243
- Do you have brothers?
- Yeah.
480
00:27:16,286 --> 00:27:18,288
But they're not
in the business?
481
00:27:28,821 --> 00:27:30,953
- Because you're a woman?
- Yeah, I'm a woman.
482
00:27:30,997 --> 00:27:32,259
Uh-huh.
483
00:27:37,090 --> 00:27:39,701
"I will."
484
00:27:39,745 --> 00:27:43,096
Eva, the plate is ready.
485
00:27:43,139 --> 00:27:45,881
Now that all the flavors
have had a chance to marry,
486
00:27:45,925 --> 00:27:48,667
tiny pieces of vanilla
are sprinkled on top.
487
00:27:48,710 --> 00:27:50,277
It's like caviar.
488
00:27:50,320 --> 00:27:52,105
You got to be
very sparing with it.
489
00:27:52,148 --> 00:27:53,976
How's that?
Great.
490
00:27:54,020 --> 00:27:56,457
We even add vanilla
to the salad dressing
491
00:27:56,500 --> 00:28:00,374
to enhance the flavors
of mango and feta.
492
00:28:00,417 --> 00:28:03,333
Mmm.
Oh, that's refreshing.
493
00:28:03,377 --> 00:28:04,900
All right.
Et voilà.
494
00:28:04,944 --> 00:28:06,293
Hola.
495
00:28:06,336 --> 00:28:08,382
This is my son
and my father.
496
00:28:08,425 --> 00:28:10,776
Hola, señor.
Un placer.
497
00:28:26,095 --> 00:28:27,531
Mm.
498
00:28:30,230 --> 00:28:31,492
Mm-hmm.
499
00:28:34,887 --> 00:28:35,975
Mm-hmm.
500
00:28:38,368 --> 00:28:42,982
Okay, let me try this dish
that I've never had before.
501
00:28:44,244 --> 00:28:46,289
- It's good.
- Oh, my God.
502
00:28:46,333 --> 00:28:48,814
Mmm.
503
00:28:48,857 --> 00:28:51,904
Everybody has to eat this
when we're done.
504
00:28:51,947 --> 00:28:56,212
The finale to this
incredible day is dessert.
505
00:28:56,256 --> 00:28:59,215
Bananas doused in
the homemade vanilla liqueur--
506
00:28:59,259 --> 00:29:02,262
another recipe from
Norma's great-grandfather.
507
00:29:02,305 --> 00:29:04,307
Oh, this looks beautiful.
Gracias.
508
00:29:04,351 --> 00:29:07,920
Oh, look
at this vanilla bean ice cream.
509
00:29:07,963 --> 00:29:09,443
Just melting.
510
00:29:09,486 --> 00:29:11,488
Wow.
Thank you so much for today.
511
00:29:11,532 --> 00:29:12,925
What an experience.
Thank you.
512
00:29:12,968 --> 00:29:14,013
I was so excited.
513
00:29:14,056 --> 00:29:15,536
I've been such a fan
of vanilla,
514
00:29:15,579 --> 00:29:17,190
and now I know everything
about it.
515
00:29:17,233 --> 00:29:19,714
And I've impregnated
a vanilla bean, so...
516
00:29:19,758 --> 00:29:20,976
Yeah.
517
00:29:21,020 --> 00:29:25,328
I'm a proud parent.
518
00:29:35,774 --> 00:29:37,993
So this is El Tajín.
519
00:29:38,037 --> 00:29:42,302
This place was inhabited
by the Totonac civilization,
520
00:29:42,345 --> 00:29:43,694
and they were very prosperous.
521
00:29:43,738 --> 00:29:45,131
You can tell
just by these ruins.
522
00:29:45,174 --> 00:29:47,437
There's many buildings
dedicated
523
00:29:47,481 --> 00:29:49,178
to ceremonies and rituals.
524
00:29:49,222 --> 00:29:52,573
It extends forever.
525
00:29:52,616 --> 00:29:55,054
Over 1,000 years ago,
526
00:29:55,097 --> 00:29:57,273
way before
any Spanish arrived,
527
00:29:57,317 --> 00:30:00,624
two civilizations vied
for supremacy in Veracruz--
528
00:30:00,668 --> 00:30:03,802
the Aztecs and the Totonacs.
529
00:30:03,845 --> 00:30:05,586
And up here in the north,
530
00:30:05,629 --> 00:30:08,371
it was the Totonacs
that prevailed.
531
00:30:08,415 --> 00:30:10,025
Set between two large streams
532
00:30:10,069 --> 00:30:12,593
that flow
to the Tecolutla River,
533
00:30:12,636 --> 00:30:15,465
El Tajín was
perfectly shielded from attack
534
00:30:15,509 --> 00:30:17,380
and is one
of the best-preserved
535
00:30:17,424 --> 00:30:19,861
pre-Hispanic cities in Mexico.
536
00:30:19,905 --> 00:30:23,169
This strategic advantage
was key to the survival
537
00:30:23,212 --> 00:30:24,735
of the Totonac people.
538
00:30:24,779 --> 00:30:28,217
And this particular culture
is still practicing
539
00:30:28,261 --> 00:30:30,567
their rituals
and ceremonies today.
540
00:30:38,575 --> 00:30:40,360
Hola.
Buenas tardes.
541
00:30:40,403 --> 00:30:42,884
- ¿Cómo están? Buenas tardes.
- Buenas tardes.
542
00:30:42,928 --> 00:30:46,061
My host, doña Marta,
founded Smoke Women,
543
00:30:46,105 --> 00:30:49,021
a group that keeps ancient
Totonac traditions alive
544
00:30:49,064 --> 00:30:51,719
while also supporting
local women.
545
00:30:57,029 --> 00:30:58,030
Okay.
546
00:31:04,558 --> 00:31:07,996
Smoke has always been integral
to Totonac culture.
547
00:31:08,040 --> 00:31:11,826
It's used in preserving food
and also in cooking rituals.
548
00:31:19,834 --> 00:31:22,097
A shot of moonshine
keeps the Devil away.
549
00:31:29,017 --> 00:31:30,453
Okay.
550
00:31:41,203 --> 00:31:42,726
Okay.
551
00:31:42,770 --> 00:31:44,641
El Tajín's position
between two rivers
552
00:31:44,685 --> 00:31:46,426
didn't just provide
protection.
553
00:31:46,469 --> 00:31:49,081
It was also a source of food
for the local community,
554
00:31:49,124 --> 00:31:52,736
like these freshwater shrimps,
or acamayas,
555
00:31:52,780 --> 00:31:54,782
which we're going to cook.
556
00:31:58,264 --> 00:31:59,439
Sí.
557
00:32:05,401 --> 00:32:06,663
Just so y'all know.
558
00:32:06,707 --> 00:32:09,101
You know, nature doesn't lie.
559
00:32:10,885 --> 00:32:14,454
They are the star ingredient
of a traditional Totonac stew
560
00:32:14,497 --> 00:32:16,195
called huatape.
561
00:32:20,460 --> 00:32:21,635
Mm-hmm.
562
00:32:27,989 --> 00:32:29,991
- Sí.
- Sí.
563
00:32:33,821 --> 00:32:36,128
Chile piquín.
He grows these.
564
00:32:42,917 --> 00:32:43,831
Uh-huh.
565
00:32:52,100 --> 00:32:53,623
Okay.
566
00:32:57,192 --> 00:32:59,542
Everything we're using
in these recipes
567
00:32:59,586 --> 00:33:01,980
is foraged
from the local area,
568
00:33:02,023 --> 00:33:04,330
like these chaga mushrooms,
569
00:33:04,373 --> 00:33:06,941
which are crushed to make
the filling for the empanadas.
570
00:33:47,025 --> 00:33:48,591
Sí...
571
00:33:53,466 --> 00:33:55,642
Sí.
572
00:33:55,685 --> 00:33:57,513
Y las vamos a...
573
00:33:57,557 --> 00:33:59,602
These look amazing.
574
00:34:02,040 --> 00:34:05,086
Wow.
So beautiful.
575
00:34:05,130 --> 00:34:07,132
A few minutes on the heat...
576
00:34:08,785 --> 00:34:11,658
And our Totonac
feast is ready.
577
00:34:18,534 --> 00:34:19,796
Mmm.
578
00:34:24,540 --> 00:34:26,020
Okay.
579
00:34:26,064 --> 00:34:27,413
Okay.
580
00:34:27,456 --> 00:34:29,154
She sucked the head.
581
00:34:33,201 --> 00:34:36,987
Okay, let's have
this mushroom empanada.
582
00:34:40,861 --> 00:34:42,254
Mmm.
Crispy.
583
00:34:42,297 --> 00:34:43,516
Oh!
584
00:34:43,559 --> 00:34:45,126
And a little spicy.
585
00:34:45,170 --> 00:34:46,823
It tastes very...
586
00:34:48,347 --> 00:34:49,304
both: Mm-hmm.
587
00:34:49,348 --> 00:34:50,914
Smoke preserves,
588
00:34:50,958 --> 00:34:55,354
but it can also change
to fit the shape of the space.
589
00:34:55,397 --> 00:34:57,617
And from what I've seen,
the Totonacs
590
00:34:57,660 --> 00:34:59,880
also know how to adapt.
591
00:34:59,923 --> 00:35:02,926
Maybe it's that attitude
and resilience
592
00:35:02,970 --> 00:35:05,668
that's the secret
to doña Marta's success.
593
00:35:18,377 --> 00:35:19,813
Gracias.
594
00:35:19,856 --> 00:35:22,642
Muchas gracias.
595
00:35:31,868 --> 00:35:34,219
- Hola!
- Welcome, Eva.
596
00:35:38,919 --> 00:35:40,399
Gracias.
597
00:35:40,442 --> 00:35:41,487
- Are you hungry?
- Yeah.
598
00:35:41,530 --> 00:35:42,705
- Want to join me?
- Yes.
599
00:35:42,749 --> 00:35:44,142
I'm always hungry.
600
00:35:44,185 --> 00:35:46,753
I'm so excited
to meet Luis Palmeros,
601
00:35:46,796 --> 00:35:49,234
ranked one of Mexico's
best new chefs.
602
00:35:49,277 --> 00:35:51,497
But before I get to
see him in action,
603
00:35:51,540 --> 00:35:53,934
there's someone special
he wants me to meet.
604
00:35:53,977 --> 00:35:55,414
I'm going to introduce you
605
00:35:55,457 --> 00:35:57,981
one of the most important
traditional cooks here.
606
00:35:58,025 --> 00:36:00,070
It's doña Rocío.
Okay.
607
00:36:00,114 --> 00:36:03,248
It's amazing person
and amazing cook.
608
00:36:03,291 --> 00:36:06,164
Luis wants me
to try doña Rocío's specialty,
609
00:36:06,207 --> 00:36:08,078
a stuffed jalapeño.
610
00:36:08,122 --> 00:36:10,168
Hola!
Hola, hola.
611
00:36:10,211 --> 00:36:12,692
- Let me introduce--
- Soy Eva. Mucho gusto.
612
00:36:12,735 --> 00:36:14,172
She teach me
how to cook the chili.
613
00:36:14,215 --> 00:36:15,173
Oh, my God.
614
00:36:15,216 --> 00:36:17,000
So is this where
it all started?
615
00:36:17,044 --> 00:36:18,480
Yeah.
616
00:36:18,524 --> 00:36:19,786
We're going to try
617
00:36:19,829 --> 00:36:21,353
a traditional version
of the chili.
618
00:36:21,396 --> 00:36:23,050
It's a mixture
between two cultures.
619
00:36:23,093 --> 00:36:25,270
It's the Mexican one
and the Spanish.
620
00:36:29,578 --> 00:36:32,581
Yet another of Veracruz's
culinary gifts to the world--
621
00:36:32,625 --> 00:36:34,148
the famous jalapeño
622
00:36:34,192 --> 00:36:36,846
originated
right here in Xalapa.
623
00:36:38,065 --> 00:36:40,328
Around 60 miles
inland from the port,
624
00:36:40,372 --> 00:36:44,680
the capital city is nestled
in lush, fertile landscape.
625
00:36:47,161 --> 00:36:49,729
Jalapeño peppers
have been cultivated here
626
00:36:49,772 --> 00:36:52,253
since the time of the Aztecs.
627
00:36:53,776 --> 00:36:55,561
- You should--
- Just dig in, okay.
628
00:36:55,604 --> 00:36:56,910
Yeah, you should--
629
00:36:56,953 --> 00:36:58,303
- You dig in.
- Just dig in.
630
00:36:58,346 --> 00:37:01,131
And so what's inside of it?
What's the filling?
631
00:37:01,175 --> 00:37:04,526
Its main ingredients--
it's tomato, it's raisins.
632
00:37:04,570 --> 00:37:06,702
Mmm.
633
00:37:06,746 --> 00:37:09,749
Yeah, of course.
634
00:37:09,792 --> 00:37:11,229
Oh, my God.
635
00:37:23,893 --> 00:37:25,243
I know this is beautiful
636
00:37:25,286 --> 00:37:26,722
because
it's the traditional way.
637
00:37:26,766 --> 00:37:28,158
Yeah.
638
00:37:28,202 --> 00:37:30,073
But I'm going to introduce
you my version.
639
00:37:30,117 --> 00:37:31,771
Well, I don't know
if you can top doña Rocío's.
640
00:37:31,814 --> 00:37:33,251
I don't know.
No.
641
00:37:38,517 --> 00:37:41,476
To create a modern version
of chile en caldillo,
642
00:37:41,520 --> 00:37:43,522
we need
a suitably modern space.
643
00:37:48,004 --> 00:37:50,572
The vibe is stripped
back and simple.
644
00:37:50,616 --> 00:37:53,227
I suspect the food
will be anything but.
645
00:38:06,501 --> 00:38:08,155
And this is what's going
to go inside the chili.
646
00:38:08,198 --> 00:38:10,244
Sí.
Inside the chili.
647
00:38:10,288 --> 00:38:12,159
In his cooking,
Luis celebrates
648
00:38:12,202 --> 00:38:16,119
different culinary influences,
like fried African plantain.
649
00:38:18,731 --> 00:38:20,210
Raisin.
Raisins, yes.
650
00:38:20,254 --> 00:38:21,777
That's very Spanish.
651
00:38:21,821 --> 00:38:23,301
And he combines these
652
00:38:23,344 --> 00:38:25,128
with capers and herbs
for the fillings.
653
00:38:44,931 --> 00:38:46,585
Oh.
And I'm going to...
654
00:38:46,628 --> 00:38:49,501
- And it catches on fire!
- Yeah, of course.
655
00:38:52,852 --> 00:38:54,549
Mmm.
656
00:38:54,593 --> 00:38:56,986
You can smell that alcohol
mixed with the plantain.
657
00:38:57,030 --> 00:38:58,248
With the plantains--
658
00:38:58,292 --> 00:38:59,685
I mean, it makes
the plantains...
659
00:38:59,728 --> 00:39:00,860
- The smell...
- Explode.
660
00:39:00,903 --> 00:39:02,427
Yeah.
You know, exploded, yeah.
661
00:39:09,390 --> 00:39:11,479
As a tribute
to Totonac tradition,
662
00:39:11,523 --> 00:39:15,178
Luis smokes the filling
for 12 to 16 hours.
663
00:39:15,222 --> 00:39:17,180
Thank God he's got one ready.
664
00:39:20,227 --> 00:39:22,229
It smells amazing.
Sí. No.
665
00:39:22,272 --> 00:39:24,231
You can smell
every single spice.
666
00:39:24,274 --> 00:39:26,494
Like, there's not one
that overpowers the other.
667
00:39:31,760 --> 00:39:33,371
Está listo.
668
00:39:44,512 --> 00:39:45,383
Okay.
669
00:39:56,872 --> 00:39:58,308
Oh, my God.
670
00:39:58,352 --> 00:40:01,007
Guys, I don't want to brag,
but mine is perfect.
671
00:40:08,406 --> 00:40:09,972
Yeah, yeah.
672
00:40:23,029 --> 00:40:24,683
God, look at that!
673
00:40:29,165 --> 00:40:31,472
It's like the Mexican flag.
674
00:40:33,518 --> 00:40:34,997
Sí.
675
00:40:45,007 --> 00:40:46,922
That's so beautiful!
I need my phone!
676
00:40:49,403 --> 00:40:50,317
Thank you.
677
00:40:50,360 --> 00:40:51,927
But it's not just the food.
678
00:40:51,971 --> 00:40:55,148
At this restaurant,
even the drinks are smoked.
679
00:40:55,191 --> 00:40:57,803
Oh, this is so beautiful--
a smoked Aperol.
680
00:40:57,846 --> 00:41:00,196
Stanley Tucci has to see this.
681
00:41:00,240 --> 00:41:01,937
Salud. Gracias.
Bienvenida a Cuarto Blanco.
682
00:41:01,981 --> 00:41:03,156
Mmm.
683
00:41:05,463 --> 00:41:06,986
Let's see.
684
00:41:11,425 --> 00:41:13,383
Mmm.
685
00:41:15,037 --> 00:41:16,735
This is amazing.
686
00:41:16,778 --> 00:41:19,651
This is quite different
from this morning
687
00:41:19,694 --> 00:41:22,828
but, at the same time,
very, very familiar
688
00:41:22,871 --> 00:41:27,659
and definitely nods to the
traditional way
689
00:41:27,702 --> 00:41:29,530
you make chile relleno.
690
00:41:39,714 --> 00:41:41,411
Mm-hmm.
691
00:41:41,455 --> 00:41:44,371
Just as my roots in Veracruz
go back hundreds of years,
692
00:41:44,414 --> 00:41:48,244
so do the origins
of every recipe.
693
00:41:48,288 --> 00:41:51,030
Veracruzanos continue
to celebrate the produce
694
00:41:51,073 --> 00:41:52,814
that pass through their port,
695
00:41:52,858 --> 00:41:55,469
but fighting for the freedom
to create something new
696
00:41:55,513 --> 00:41:58,516
has also been a cornerstone
of their rich history.
697
00:41:58,559 --> 00:42:00,605
And with that kind of mindset,
698
00:42:00,648 --> 00:42:04,130
you just know there
are more great things to come.
49184
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