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1
00:00:15,885 --> 00:00:18,366
Oh, it's cold.
It's cold.
2
00:00:20,237 --> 00:00:22,065
So this is called a cenote.
3
00:00:22,109 --> 00:00:23,893
It's a natural sinkhole.
4
00:00:23,936 --> 00:00:26,852
It's very unique
to the Yucatán Peninsula.
5
00:00:26,896 --> 00:00:28,376
They were very sacred
to the Mayans.
6
00:00:28,419 --> 00:00:31,553
They believed that this was
a passage to the underworld.
7
00:00:40,605 --> 00:00:44,479
The Maya
define the culture of Yucatán.
8
00:00:44,522 --> 00:00:45,958
As one
of the great civilizations
9
00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:49,223
in Central America,
their influence is everywhere.
10
00:00:49,266 --> 00:00:51,051
This is huge!
11
00:00:51,094 --> 00:00:53,618
Their DNA runs
through every local dish.
12
00:00:56,491 --> 00:00:59,885
And their ancient ways are
still a source of inspiration.
13
00:00:59,929 --> 00:01:02,453
Let's let it burn
a little bit more, and...
14
00:01:02,497 --> 00:01:03,585
- More?
- We grind.
15
00:01:03,628 --> 00:01:05,152
I'm Eva Longoria,
16
00:01:05,195 --> 00:01:07,763
born and bred in Texas
with Mexican-American roots,
17
00:01:07,806 --> 00:01:10,070
which makes me a Texican.
18
00:01:10,113 --> 00:01:13,334
I'm exploring Mexico to see
how the people, their lands,
19
00:01:13,377 --> 00:01:16,250
and their past have shaped
a culinary tradition
20
00:01:16,293 --> 00:01:18,339
as diverse as its 32 states.
21
00:01:18,382 --> 00:01:20,906
I don't think I've ever
seen an avocado this big.
22
00:01:20,950 --> 00:01:23,692
Here in Yucatán, there are
so many great ingredients.
23
00:01:23,735 --> 00:01:27,087
With searingly hot weather
all year round,
24
00:01:27,130 --> 00:01:29,437
time moves at a slower pace
in Yucatán.
25
00:01:32,179 --> 00:01:35,486
When it's taken hundreds of
years to build the pyramids,
26
00:01:35,530 --> 00:01:37,793
waiting a day for your dinner
to cook is no big deal.
27
00:01:40,491 --> 00:01:41,971
Eight hours?
28
00:01:42,014 --> 00:01:44,104
I just hope I can be
as patient as my hosts.
29
00:01:44,147 --> 00:01:46,584
I want to taste the pig!
30
00:02:04,428 --> 00:02:07,039
Yucatán state is cut off
from the rest of Mexico
31
00:02:07,083 --> 00:02:10,086
by dense forest,
but its long coastline
32
00:02:10,130 --> 00:02:13,307
has always linked it
to the outside world.
33
00:02:13,350 --> 00:02:16,397
It has the largest
Maya population in Mexico,
34
00:02:16,440 --> 00:02:19,226
dating back 4,000 years.
35
00:02:19,269 --> 00:02:23,012
The ancient Maya were
pioneering and industrious.
36
00:02:23,055 --> 00:02:24,840
They thrived here
until the arrival
37
00:02:24,883 --> 00:02:27,843
of the Spanish conquistadors
in the 1500s.
38
00:02:29,366 --> 00:02:33,022
The region's turbulent history
and unique geography
39
00:02:33,065 --> 00:02:34,893
have heavily influenced
the cuisine.
40
00:02:40,203 --> 00:02:42,597
So today,
I am trying cochinita pibil,
41
00:02:42,640 --> 00:02:45,904
which is probably the most
famous dish from the Yucatán.
42
00:02:45,948 --> 00:02:48,690
You can't come here
without having it.
43
00:02:48,733 --> 00:02:51,562
It's known worldwide.
44
00:02:51,606 --> 00:02:52,998
Hola.
Hola.
45
00:02:53,042 --> 00:02:54,043
Buenos días.
Hola. Buenos días.
46
00:02:54,086 --> 00:02:55,131
Buenos días.
47
00:02:59,091 --> 00:03:01,746
Now, there are variations
on the recipe.
48
00:03:01,790 --> 00:03:04,053
But cochinita pibil
is slow-cooked pork
49
00:03:04,096 --> 00:03:06,621
marinated
in a tangy spice mix...
50
00:03:06,664 --> 00:03:08,405
Oh, wow.
51
00:03:08,449 --> 00:03:11,103
Traditionally served in a
taco with pickled red onions.
52
00:03:11,147 --> 00:03:12,583
Look at that.
53
00:03:12,627 --> 00:03:14,716
You know it's good when
there's pork fat dripping out.
54
00:03:17,632 --> 00:03:19,111
Mmm.
55
00:03:21,723 --> 00:03:25,205
I'm going to the award-winning
restaurant, IXI'IM,
56
00:03:25,248 --> 00:03:29,426
where cochinita pibil is
transformed into fine dining.
57
00:03:29,470 --> 00:03:31,515
It's run by Luis Ronzón,
58
00:03:31,559 --> 00:03:34,126
one of the region's
most exciting chefs,
59
00:03:34,170 --> 00:03:36,128
who makes his cochinita pibil
60
00:03:36,172 --> 00:03:39,088
using both ancient
and modern techniques.
61
00:03:39,131 --> 00:03:40,698
Hello!
Hello.
62
00:03:40,742 --> 00:03:41,917
How you doing?
Good.
63
00:03:41,960 --> 00:03:43,048
Soy Eva.
64
00:03:43,092 --> 00:03:45,050
Mucho gusto
Nice meeting you.
65
00:03:45,094 --> 00:03:46,617
- Nice to meet you.
- Welcome.
66
00:03:46,661 --> 00:03:47,923
Thank you.
I'm excited.
67
00:03:47,966 --> 00:03:50,708
I've heard amazing things
about your restaurant.
68
00:03:50,752 --> 00:03:52,754
Luis starts
by cooking the pork
69
00:03:52,797 --> 00:03:56,105
the traditional Mayan way:
outdoors.
70
00:04:03,634 --> 00:04:06,115
This pig is a descendant
of the same breed
71
00:04:06,158 --> 00:04:08,944
that the Spanish prize
for jamón ibérico,
72
00:04:08,987 --> 00:04:11,207
one of the world's
finest hams.
73
00:04:15,951 --> 00:04:17,257
I've never seen this orange.
74
00:04:19,520 --> 00:04:20,782
Yeah.
75
00:04:20,825 --> 00:04:22,653
You use sour orange.
76
00:04:23,872 --> 00:04:26,048
The Spanish brought
this citrus gem,
77
00:04:26,091 --> 00:04:28,485
which is now a Yucatán staple.
78
00:04:28,529 --> 00:04:30,008
Here, it's mixed with spices
79
00:04:30,052 --> 00:04:31,706
from
the neighboring Caribbean.
80
00:04:31,749 --> 00:04:32,881
So...
81
00:04:36,711 --> 00:04:37,842
Mm-hmm.
82
00:04:48,200 --> 00:04:51,073
The marinated pig is
entombed in a steel box
83
00:04:51,116 --> 00:04:53,510
before being put in the oven,
84
00:04:53,554 --> 00:04:56,992
which is literally a freshly
dug hole in the ground.
85
00:04:57,035 --> 00:04:58,646
What do you call the oven?
86
00:04:58,689 --> 00:05:00,343
What is--P-I-B?
P-I-B.
87
00:05:03,825 --> 00:05:05,000
Oh.
88
00:05:06,784 --> 00:05:07,829
- Pib style.
- No?
89
00:05:16,925 --> 00:05:19,493
It is basically a crock pot
in the ground.
90
00:05:19,536 --> 00:05:20,668
Yeah, kind of.
Yeah.
91
00:05:20,711 --> 00:05:22,539
You couldn't have
said it better.
92
00:05:22,583 --> 00:05:24,236
Wouldn't it be easier just
to put it in a crock pot?
93
00:05:24,280 --> 00:05:27,196
Yeah. No, 'cause you don't
have the flavor of the soil.
94
00:05:27,239 --> 00:05:28,589
- Yes, the flavor...
- You know?
95
00:05:28,632 --> 00:05:30,155
- Of the region.
- Of the branches
96
00:05:30,199 --> 00:05:31,461
and everything.
Of the tierra.
97
00:05:31,505 --> 00:05:34,856
Right. And this is
a romantic technique, no?
98
00:05:34,899 --> 00:05:36,379
- A very romantic technique.
- It is.
99
00:05:36,423 --> 00:05:37,902
I mean, it's romantic
because I'm not the one
100
00:05:37,946 --> 00:05:40,035
digging the dirt, but yeah.
Yeah.
101
00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:48,609
This ancient way
of slow-cooking is ingenious.
102
00:05:48,652 --> 00:05:51,655
Once buried,
the pig needs no supervision,
103
00:05:51,699 --> 00:05:53,831
and the meat is protected
from hungry animals.
104
00:05:53,875 --> 00:05:55,746
I mean, what's not to like?
105
00:05:55,790 --> 00:05:57,400
Oh, but there is a downside.
106
00:05:57,444 --> 00:06:00,708
So we're gonna leave it here
for eight hours.
107
00:06:00,751 --> 00:06:02,187
- Eight hours?
- Yeah.
108
00:06:04,929 --> 00:06:06,496
Thank goodness for that.
109
00:06:06,540 --> 00:06:08,933
I just wish our crew would
hurry up and get over here.
110
00:06:08,977 --> 00:06:11,022
I'm dying
to eat the pig, guys!
111
00:06:11,066 --> 00:06:13,634
- We're hungry.
- Come on!
112
00:06:13,677 --> 00:06:16,245
I want to taste the pig!
113
00:06:18,726 --> 00:06:20,336
I mean, if you could
smell this right now,
114
00:06:20,380 --> 00:06:22,904
you'd be yelling for it too.
115
00:06:22,947 --> 00:06:24,296
So this one,
we buried yesterday.
116
00:06:24,340 --> 00:06:26,647
- The big reveal.
- Yes. Yeah.
117
00:06:26,690 --> 00:06:29,389
Oh, wow.
118
00:06:32,087 --> 00:06:34,568
Can I take the banana leaf off?
Yeah, please.
119
00:06:34,611 --> 00:06:36,091
Look at this!
120
00:06:36,134 --> 00:06:38,310
Look at that.
Look at the juice.
121
00:06:40,312 --> 00:06:42,010
Oh, my God.
122
00:06:42,053 --> 00:06:44,273
It's just, like, falling off!
123
00:06:48,625 --> 00:06:50,105
Oh, my gosh.
124
00:06:50,148 --> 00:06:52,194
Oh, my gosh.
Well, I need more now.
125
00:06:52,237 --> 00:06:56,372
I mean, you can taste
the comino, the clove.
126
00:06:56,416 --> 00:06:58,766
That sour orange really is--
Yeah.
127
00:06:58,809 --> 00:07:02,030
Sour orange and the spices, no?
128
00:07:02,073 --> 00:07:04,206
Wow.
Mm-hmm.
129
00:07:04,249 --> 00:07:06,034
Mmm!
130
00:07:06,077 --> 00:07:07,992
- My mouth is watering now.
- Watching me?
131
00:07:08,036 --> 00:07:09,429
Yeah.
132
00:07:09,472 --> 00:07:11,822
So I wanted you to try,
like, the normal way.
133
00:07:11,866 --> 00:07:12,910
- Mm-hmm.
- And also,
134
00:07:12,954 --> 00:07:14,956
I want you to try my way,
135
00:07:14,999 --> 00:07:17,611
which is the way we serve it at
the IXI'IM restaurant, so...
136
00:07:17,654 --> 00:07:19,961
OK.
137
00:07:20,004 --> 00:07:23,268
This is beautiful!
138
00:07:23,312 --> 00:07:25,401
Here in his kitchen garden,
139
00:07:25,445 --> 00:07:28,665
Luis grows his produce
the same way as the Maya.
140
00:07:35,411 --> 00:07:37,761
Now, I'm sure the ancient
Maya would feel at home
141
00:07:37,805 --> 00:07:40,111
in Luis's garden,
but what would they think
142
00:07:40,155 --> 00:07:42,374
of his breathtaking
dining room?
143
00:07:46,466 --> 00:07:49,077
But I'm at the heart
of the action--in the kitchen.
144
00:07:53,211 --> 00:07:55,083
- What? Yes!
- Yeah? OK.
145
00:07:55,126 --> 00:07:57,346
Yes. Don't threaten me
with a good time.
146
00:07:59,043 --> 00:08:00,175
Salud.
Cheers.
147
00:08:00,218 --> 00:08:01,655
Luis is from Mexico City,
148
00:08:01,698 --> 00:08:04,788
but it's Yucatán
that's captured his heart.
149
00:08:04,832 --> 00:08:07,008
So what was your favorite thing
about the cuisine
150
00:08:07,051 --> 00:08:09,097
when you moved here?
151
00:08:09,140 --> 00:08:11,360
- Yes? This dish?
- Yeah, yeah.
152
00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:13,928
Oh, yeah.
153
00:08:17,322 --> 00:08:19,499
- Really?
- Yeah.
154
00:08:19,542 --> 00:08:22,806
Luis has swapped out the
traditional pickled red onions
155
00:08:22,850 --> 00:08:27,028
for his own sides of sweet
potato, parsnip, and beets.
156
00:08:27,071 --> 00:08:29,160
Just a little bit of butter,
guys.
157
00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:30,640
- Yeah.
- Just a little bit of butter.
158
00:08:30,684 --> 00:08:31,641
Salt.
159
00:08:33,817 --> 00:08:35,906
- And that's it.
- And that's it.
160
00:08:35,950 --> 00:08:39,301
I'm just gonna wait here
while he roasts those beets.
161
00:08:41,651 --> 00:08:43,261
The pig from the pib
162
00:08:43,305 --> 00:08:46,047
is about to have
a sophisticated makeover.
163
00:08:51,487 --> 00:08:53,576
Watch out. Aah!
164
00:08:53,620 --> 00:08:57,275
We're gonna make, like,
a very crispy skin, no?
165
00:08:57,319 --> 00:08:59,408
- That's a good idea.
- Yeah.
166
00:08:59,451 --> 00:09:01,018
I concur.
167
00:09:01,062 --> 00:09:02,542
Do you hear that?
168
00:09:02,585 --> 00:09:03,847
- Yes.
- That's a crispy skin.
169
00:09:03,891 --> 00:09:06,067
Yes!
170
00:09:06,110 --> 00:09:10,071
- And I'm gonna put it in here.
- Oh, that's beautiful!
171
00:09:10,114 --> 00:09:11,376
So that's the way
we plate it.
172
00:09:11,420 --> 00:09:12,726
- Look at that presentation.
- Yeah.
173
00:09:15,642 --> 00:09:18,601
The puréed vegetables
and habanero chili salsa
174
00:09:18,645 --> 00:09:21,778
turns this dish
into a rainbow of color.
175
00:09:34,269 --> 00:09:37,185
I've never had a meal
like this.
176
00:09:37,228 --> 00:09:38,969
One of the best meals
of my life.
177
00:09:39,013 --> 00:09:40,101
Thank you.
178
00:09:42,582 --> 00:09:45,628
This is Luis' love letter
to Yucatán,
179
00:09:45,672 --> 00:09:46,716
to the people
180
00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:49,937
and the land
he now calls home.
181
00:09:49,980 --> 00:09:51,112
I'm just gonna--
don't mind me.
182
00:09:51,155 --> 00:09:53,418
I'm just gonna stay here
in the kitchen.
183
00:09:53,462 --> 00:09:54,768
You have work to do.
Go ahead.
184
00:09:56,770 --> 00:09:58,206
I'm so happy.
185
00:10:09,260 --> 00:10:14,222
Mérida is the capital
of Yucatán,
186
00:10:14,265 --> 00:10:16,877
and it's a city
that runs on its stomach.
187
00:10:16,920 --> 00:10:18,400
Hola.
188
00:10:18,443 --> 00:10:20,445
I'm here to meet one
of Mérida's best chefs
189
00:10:20,489 --> 00:10:22,317
and gastronomic pioneers.
190
00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:23,971
- Mucho gusto.
- Mucho gusto.
191
00:10:25,973 --> 00:10:28,323
This market sells all
the spices that we will need
192
00:10:28,366 --> 00:10:30,499
to cook later on in the night.
OK. OK.
193
00:10:30,542 --> 00:10:32,327
- So you want to take a look?
- Yes.
194
00:10:32,370 --> 00:10:33,937
- Let's go.
- I love a spice market.
195
00:10:33,981 --> 00:10:37,288
Chef Roberto Solís is famous
for putting a new spin
196
00:10:37,332 --> 00:10:40,465
on the foundation
of Yucatecan cuisine:
197
00:10:40,509 --> 00:10:41,641
el recado.
198
00:10:43,904 --> 00:10:45,383
What is el recado?
199
00:10:45,427 --> 00:10:47,647
I've never heard that word
until I got to the Yucatán.
200
00:10:52,608 --> 00:10:54,349
El recado is
a colored paste
201
00:10:54,392 --> 00:10:56,264
made from a combination
of spices.
202
00:10:56,307 --> 00:10:58,353
They come in lots
of different flavors
203
00:10:58,396 --> 00:11:00,485
and are used everywhere here,
204
00:11:00,529 --> 00:11:04,054
but you'll struggle to find
el recado outside Yucatán.
205
00:11:05,621 --> 00:11:07,101
No. No.
206
00:11:07,144 --> 00:11:08,319
- No?
- Just here.
207
00:11:08,363 --> 00:11:10,060
Why?
That's so weird.
208
00:11:10,104 --> 00:11:12,584
That's weird.
209
00:11:12,628 --> 00:11:14,499
Because it feels
like such a good idea.
210
00:11:14,543 --> 00:11:15,675
- Yeah.
- Like, to do a paste
211
00:11:15,718 --> 00:11:18,199
on chicken and fish and pork.
Yeah.
212
00:11:20,549 --> 00:11:23,160
Is this their family recipe?
213
00:11:25,510 --> 00:11:28,035
For generations,
Don Enrique's family
214
00:11:28,078 --> 00:11:31,299
have been recado alchemists.
215
00:11:35,912 --> 00:11:37,044
Uh-huh.
216
00:11:57,107 --> 00:11:59,066
- It's much smokier.
- Yes.
217
00:12:00,894 --> 00:12:02,896
No.
218
00:12:02,939 --> 00:12:05,072
Many of these spices
came to the Yucatán
219
00:12:05,115 --> 00:12:06,638
over 500 years ago,
220
00:12:06,682 --> 00:12:09,554
when the region was colonized
by the Spanish.
221
00:12:09,598 --> 00:12:11,861
And you can still see
a strong European influence
222
00:12:11,905 --> 00:12:13,733
all around Mérida.
223
00:12:16,213 --> 00:12:19,347
Today, people flock
to its thriving food scene.
224
00:12:19,390 --> 00:12:21,436
Twice voted
capital of culture,
225
00:12:21,479 --> 00:12:23,438
it's a magnet for creativity.
226
00:12:26,136 --> 00:12:28,095
Roberto's been
at the forefront
227
00:12:28,138 --> 00:12:31,228
of that creativity here
in Mérida and in the Yucatán,
228
00:12:31,272 --> 00:12:33,448
so let's see what he's up to.
229
00:12:33,491 --> 00:12:35,537
Roberto's restaurant
is called Huniik,
230
00:12:35,580 --> 00:12:38,670
which means "unique spirit"
in Mayan.
231
00:12:38,714 --> 00:12:41,935
Here, it's all about turning
ancient recipes on their head.
232
00:12:41,978 --> 00:12:43,110
Wow.
233
00:12:43,153 --> 00:12:46,722
Oh, this is beautiful!
234
00:12:46,766 --> 00:12:48,593
This is gorgeous!
235
00:12:48,637 --> 00:12:50,247
How are you?
236
00:12:50,291 --> 00:12:51,814
Oh, you look so handsome
237
00:12:51,858 --> 00:12:53,076
in your chef's clothes.
Welcome.
238
00:12:54,556 --> 00:12:56,297
Known as the Recado King,
239
00:12:56,340 --> 00:13:00,562
Roberto's star of the menu
tonight is his black recado.
240
00:13:00,605 --> 00:13:02,477
Are we doing the spices here?
Well, yes.
241
00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:03,739
We're gonna grind
the spices here.
242
00:13:03,783 --> 00:13:04,827
- All right.
- But actually,
243
00:13:04,871 --> 00:13:06,873
we're gonna
burn the spices here.
244
00:13:06,916 --> 00:13:08,657
Ooh!
245
00:13:08,700 --> 00:13:11,181
We have onion, oregano,
cumin, garlic,
246
00:13:11,225 --> 00:13:14,271
annatto seeds, the pepper.
Uh-huh.
247
00:13:14,315 --> 00:13:17,666
Roberto is making his
recado negro from scratch...
248
00:13:17,709 --> 00:13:20,321
- So if you want to start...
- Yeah. What do I do?
249
00:13:20,364 --> 00:13:21,975
With me as his wingman.
250
00:13:22,018 --> 00:13:23,150
We put it in here?
Yeah.
251
00:13:23,193 --> 00:13:25,413
Oh, my God!
252
00:13:25,456 --> 00:13:26,370
- Good.
- I already--
253
00:13:26,414 --> 00:13:27,589
I already messed up. OK.
254
00:13:27,632 --> 00:13:29,156
Put some cumin.
Just a little bit.
255
00:13:29,199 --> 00:13:30,679
- A little bit?
- Like a spoon.
256
00:13:30,722 --> 00:13:32,072
Yeah, that's good.
What is this one
257
00:13:32,115 --> 00:13:33,377
called again?
Annatto seeds.
258
00:13:33,421 --> 00:13:35,118
You can put more, more,
more, more, more, more.
259
00:13:35,162 --> 00:13:36,685
The spices are
lightly toasted,
260
00:13:36,728 --> 00:13:38,513
but when it comes
to the chili...
261
00:13:38,556 --> 00:13:40,863
It's burning!
262
00:13:40,907 --> 00:13:42,169
We crank up the heat.
263
00:13:42,212 --> 00:13:43,735
The more
you burn the chili...
264
00:13:43,779 --> 00:13:45,825
- The less hot.
- The less hot.
265
00:13:45,868 --> 00:13:48,262
Now, you can start smelling.
Yeah.
266
00:13:48,305 --> 00:13:50,307
Oh, it's smoking.
267
00:13:50,351 --> 00:13:53,267
Wave it towards you.
268
00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,356
It smells amazing.
269
00:13:55,399 --> 00:13:58,185
Is this what makes it black,
is that char?
270
00:13:58,228 --> 00:13:59,534
- Yeah.
- Yeah?
271
00:13:59,577 --> 00:14:02,406
And he really does mean
"burn the chili."
272
00:14:02,450 --> 00:14:03,843
Yeah, yeah.
273
00:14:09,631 --> 00:14:11,763
Are you guys OK?
274
00:14:11,807 --> 00:14:12,982
Is it just me?
275
00:14:15,811 --> 00:14:18,205
Let's let them burn
a little bit more, and...
276
00:14:18,248 --> 00:14:19,597
- More?
- We grind.
277
00:14:19,641 --> 00:14:22,600
This goes
against all my instincts.
278
00:14:22,644 --> 00:14:25,473
And now, we grind it?
Yeah, let's go.
279
00:14:27,823 --> 00:14:28,780
OK.
280
00:14:32,262 --> 00:14:33,524
Oh, my God.
281
00:14:33,568 --> 00:14:35,613
Are we sure
this is gonna taste good?
282
00:14:35,657 --> 00:14:37,833
Yeah, of course.
283
00:14:37,877 --> 00:14:39,879
And all of this
is just for the flavoring.
284
00:14:39,922 --> 00:14:41,315
We haven't even
started cooking yet.
285
00:14:41,358 --> 00:14:42,490
Is this right?
Yeah.
286
00:14:42,533 --> 00:14:44,057
Oh, yeah.
The paste is coming.
287
00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:45,710
Yes.
288
00:14:48,583 --> 00:14:51,412
All right.
I think I just pulled a muscle.
289
00:14:51,455 --> 00:14:53,544
I think we are,
yeah, just finished.
290
00:14:53,588 --> 00:14:55,590
Amazing.
291
00:14:55,633 --> 00:14:58,288
How do you know
if it has the right balance?
292
00:14:58,332 --> 00:15:01,291
Mmm. Ooh, that smells great.
Yeah.
293
00:15:02,902 --> 00:15:04,077
It's good.
294
00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:05,295
- Now, we're gonna add...
- The orange.
295
00:15:05,339 --> 00:15:06,906
The sour orange.
296
00:15:06,949 --> 00:15:08,733
Why am I doing
all the work here?
297
00:15:10,779 --> 00:15:13,434
I don't know how much to put.
298
00:15:16,698 --> 00:15:18,613
- Then you mix it, no?
- Yeah.
299
00:15:18,656 --> 00:15:21,181
It looks so weird, huh?
No, it looks amazing.
300
00:15:21,224 --> 00:15:22,791
You're like, "Yeah."
301
00:15:24,793 --> 00:15:26,447
Oh, wow.
Oh, my God.
302
00:15:26,490 --> 00:15:29,319
That is so complicated.
303
00:15:29,363 --> 00:15:30,799
Yes.
304
00:15:32,844 --> 00:15:35,412
- Let's put this on something.
- Yes.
305
00:15:37,675 --> 00:15:39,764
So first, we're gonna
get this white onion.
306
00:15:39,808 --> 00:15:41,027
Mm-hmm.
307
00:15:41,070 --> 00:15:43,812
Are we making
Yucatán onion rings?
308
00:15:43,855 --> 00:15:45,770
I think it's a bit
more than that, but...
309
00:15:45,814 --> 00:15:47,859
I'm just teasing.
310
00:15:47,903 --> 00:15:50,253
This is one of Roberto's
signature dishes:
311
00:15:50,297 --> 00:15:51,646
onion tempura.
312
00:15:51,689 --> 00:15:53,778
With the recado?
With the recado.
313
00:15:53,822 --> 00:15:55,302
Yeah. Why not, right?
Oh, my God.
314
00:15:55,345 --> 00:15:59,175
Roberto adds the recado negro
to the tempura batter.
315
00:15:59,219 --> 00:16:00,829
So I'm gonna dip this.
316
00:16:00,872 --> 00:16:03,353
And like everything else
in Yucatán,
317
00:16:03,397 --> 00:16:05,399
it's a slow process.
318
00:16:09,403 --> 00:16:10,970
Yeah.
319
00:16:11,013 --> 00:16:13,102
- It's time-consuming.
- Yeah, it is.
320
00:16:15,539 --> 00:16:18,499
Oh, my God.
These are gorgeous.
321
00:16:18,542 --> 00:16:20,501
So the black
doesn't mean it's burnt.
322
00:16:20,544 --> 00:16:21,981
It's just the color.
Exactly.
323
00:16:23,069 --> 00:16:23,983
Mm-hmm.
324
00:16:29,814 --> 00:16:31,642
Oh.
325
00:16:34,471 --> 00:16:35,995
These beautiful
blackened onions
326
00:16:36,038 --> 00:16:38,823
are presented
on a bed of charcoal.
327
00:16:38,867 --> 00:16:40,521
Have you had
to tell some clients
328
00:16:40,564 --> 00:16:42,044
not to eat the charcoal?
You know, it's funny
329
00:16:42,088 --> 00:16:44,699
because some people just--
'Cause it's the same color.
330
00:16:44,742 --> 00:16:47,484
And everybody like...
331
00:16:47,528 --> 00:16:48,877
It was so funny.
332
00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,053
- You want to confuse people?
- Yeah.
333
00:16:51,097 --> 00:16:52,924
Well, I want to--
Is this the goal?
334
00:17:03,544 --> 00:17:05,198
Mmm.
335
00:17:05,241 --> 00:17:07,243
- You know?
- Wow.
336
00:17:07,287 --> 00:17:11,117
For as complex as that paste
was, it's not overwhelming.
337
00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:12,161
- No, it's not overwhelming.
- You're not like--
338
00:17:12,205 --> 00:17:13,641
It's just giving you
some creaminess.
339
00:17:13,684 --> 00:17:15,599
- Mmm.
- Crunch, creaminess.
340
00:17:15,643 --> 00:17:17,036
I've never had anything
like this.
341
00:17:17,079 --> 00:17:20,909
This is gorgeous,
and it's delicious.
342
00:17:20,952 --> 00:17:22,519
- Felicidades.
- Gracias.
343
00:17:22,563 --> 00:17:26,132
I'm just gonna stand here
while you make the next dish.
344
00:17:30,919 --> 00:17:33,835
Once more, Roberto's toying
with my taste buds,
345
00:17:33,878 --> 00:17:36,446
serving coconut ice cream
with grilled mango
346
00:17:36,490 --> 00:17:39,232
coated in his recado negro.
347
00:17:39,275 --> 00:17:41,843
Smoky with a hint of spice.
348
00:17:43,279 --> 00:17:45,325
Is it hot?
Yeah.
349
00:17:45,368 --> 00:17:46,543
Oh.
350
00:17:53,724 --> 00:17:55,074
It is so good!
351
00:17:55,117 --> 00:17:56,423
- Yeah, it is.
- I think I'm gonna cry!
352
00:17:59,208 --> 00:18:02,951
I thought that recado was gonna
overpower this whole thing.
353
00:18:02,994 --> 00:18:05,084
You know what it reminds me?
When you put marshmallow
354
00:18:05,127 --> 00:18:07,260
on the grill, you know?
Yes, yes!
355
00:18:07,303 --> 00:18:09,044
It reminds me of that.
The texture, you know?
356
00:18:09,088 --> 00:18:11,786
- It has a crispy texture.
- Yes, exactly.
357
00:18:11,829 --> 00:18:13,831
- Oh, my God, this is like...
- Exactly.
358
00:18:13,875 --> 00:18:16,486
I'm in heaven.
359
00:18:16,530 --> 00:18:19,707
Now I know why you're
the king of the recado negro.
360
00:18:19,750 --> 00:18:21,926
- Yes, salud.
- Gracias, Roberto.
361
00:18:21,970 --> 00:18:23,145
- Gracias.
- Muchas gracias.
362
00:18:23,189 --> 00:18:24,842
Wow.
363
00:18:34,330 --> 00:18:36,463
Most of us have heard
of the Day of the Dead.
364
00:18:36,506 --> 00:18:38,769
It's one of Mexico's
biggest celebrations,
365
00:18:38,813 --> 00:18:40,728
and my personal favorite,
366
00:18:40,771 --> 00:18:42,904
where spirits come back
to eat, drink,
367
00:18:42,947 --> 00:18:44,558
and party with the living.
368
00:18:44,601 --> 00:18:47,996
This celebration is rooted
in Aztec and Spanish cultures
369
00:18:48,039 --> 00:18:52,479
and share similarities with
the Maya ceremony Hanal Pixan,
370
00:18:52,522 --> 00:18:54,263
meaning "food for the souls."
371
00:18:59,790 --> 00:19:02,010
Hola.
Hola, Eva.
372
00:19:10,366 --> 00:19:12,716
Two-thirds of the population
of Yucatán
373
00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:14,544
are of Mayan descent.
374
00:19:14,588 --> 00:19:15,937
And at the heart
of the peninsula
375
00:19:15,980 --> 00:19:18,200
is the Maya town of Xocén.
376
00:19:23,118 --> 00:19:25,816
I've come to help
Chef Alberto Cucu
377
00:19:25,860 --> 00:19:28,297
prepare one
of the world's oldest dishes.
378
00:19:35,478 --> 00:19:36,610
Mm-hmm.
379
00:19:39,526 --> 00:19:40,614
Mm-hmm.
380
00:19:50,406 --> 00:19:51,320
Sí.
381
00:19:52,626 --> 00:19:53,757
Uh-huh.
382
00:19:57,108 --> 00:19:58,545
Mm-hmm.
383
00:19:58,588 --> 00:20:01,330
Red is incredibly symbolic
to the Maya.
384
00:20:01,374 --> 00:20:04,115
The color of blood,
it represents the sunrise
385
00:20:04,159 --> 00:20:06,074
and the rejection of darkness.
386
00:20:20,915 --> 00:20:22,438
I grew up making tamales.
387
00:20:22,482 --> 00:20:24,832
And in my home,
it's still a family tradition.
388
00:20:24,875 --> 00:20:28,052
Oh, my God!
It's peeling right off!
389
00:20:32,927 --> 00:20:34,755
- Hola.
- Hola.
390
00:20:34,798 --> 00:20:36,191
Mucho gusto, señora.
391
00:20:36,235 --> 00:20:38,889
- ¿No? No habla español?
- Uh-uh.
392
00:20:38,933 --> 00:20:42,371
My Spanish isn't great, but
it's way better than my Mayan.
393
00:20:42,415 --> 00:20:45,766
I'm hoping the language
of food is universal.
394
00:20:52,468 --> 00:20:54,122
OK, their tamale technique
395
00:20:54,165 --> 00:20:55,776
is totally different
than mine.
396
00:20:55,819 --> 00:20:57,386
God, you guys are fast.
397
00:21:02,478 --> 00:21:04,393
Así.
398
00:21:04,437 --> 00:21:07,266
Oh. Oh, see?
That's already a tip.
399
00:21:17,145 --> 00:21:19,887
These tamales are filled
with a Maya corn sauce
400
00:21:19,930 --> 00:21:23,630
before adding tomatoes
and shredded chicken.
401
00:21:23,673 --> 00:21:24,848
Mmm.
402
00:21:31,768 --> 00:21:33,204
- ¿Sí? Yeah!
- Uh-huh.
403
00:21:37,121 --> 00:21:40,647
Being Maya tamales, there's
only one way to cook them.
404
00:21:49,395 --> 00:21:51,440
I'm starting to appreciate
just how much
405
00:21:51,484 --> 00:21:53,703
cooking underground matters
to the Maya.
406
00:21:53,747 --> 00:21:57,881
It represents the cycle
of life, death, and rebirth.
407
00:22:16,291 --> 00:22:17,901
Maybe it's because
I grew up on a ranch
408
00:22:17,945 --> 00:22:19,512
cooking from scratch
with my family
409
00:22:19,555 --> 00:22:21,862
or because I have
some Mayan ancestry,
410
00:22:21,905 --> 00:22:26,040
I don't know, but this feels
very comforting and familiar.
411
00:22:29,391 --> 00:22:31,872
Oh, wow.
412
00:22:38,182 --> 00:22:39,923
Look at that.
That's super crispy.
413
00:22:39,967 --> 00:22:41,882
These are
a very different texture
414
00:22:41,925 --> 00:22:43,362
from the steamed ones I make.
415
00:22:49,411 --> 00:22:51,587
Wow.
416
00:22:51,631 --> 00:22:53,372
You guys,
look at this.
417
00:22:57,245 --> 00:22:59,290
Mmm.
418
00:22:59,334 --> 00:23:03,207
It's crispy on the outside
but really soft on the inside.
419
00:23:03,251 --> 00:23:04,208
Wow.
420
00:23:05,688 --> 00:23:07,647
Mmm.
421
00:23:07,690 --> 00:23:09,518
Pollo.
422
00:23:11,738 --> 00:23:13,392
Mmm.
423
00:23:13,435 --> 00:23:16,569
I might have to start cooking
my tamales underground, y'all.
424
00:23:16,612 --> 00:23:18,745
The Maya tradition
of cooking underground
425
00:23:18,788 --> 00:23:20,181
is still alive today,
426
00:23:20,224 --> 00:23:22,575
and it keeps them connected
to their land,
427
00:23:22,618 --> 00:23:25,273
to their history,
and their culture.
428
00:23:28,755 --> 00:23:29,886
Uh-huh.
429
00:23:35,762 --> 00:23:37,154
Mm.
430
00:23:40,636 --> 00:23:42,464
Mm-hmm.
431
00:23:42,508 --> 00:23:44,684
Uh-huh.
432
00:23:44,727 --> 00:23:45,946
- Uh-huh.
- Muchas gracias.
433
00:23:45,989 --> 00:23:47,948
The more I learn
about Yucatán culture,
434
00:23:47,991 --> 00:23:50,037
the more
I fall in love with it.
435
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:52,213
Muchas gracias.
Uh-huh.
436
00:24:04,660 --> 00:24:06,532
It's my turn
to get starstruck
437
00:24:06,575 --> 00:24:08,925
and meet a chef
I've admired for years:
438
00:24:08,969 --> 00:24:10,536
Regina Escalante.
439
00:24:12,189 --> 00:24:14,627
- Hola. Mucho gusto.
- It's so nice to meet you.
440
00:24:14,670 --> 00:24:16,324
I'm such a fan!
441
00:24:16,367 --> 00:24:18,457
Oh, thank you
for coming to Merci!
442
00:24:18,500 --> 00:24:20,067
Please, have a seat.
Yes, of course.
443
00:24:20,110 --> 00:24:21,982
Regina trained as a chef
in France
444
00:24:22,025 --> 00:24:23,636
before returning home
to Mérida
445
00:24:23,679 --> 00:24:26,987
to open her wildly popular
restaurant, Merci.
446
00:24:27,030 --> 00:24:28,336
The thing I love about her is
447
00:24:28,379 --> 00:24:30,686
she obsesses
about every detail
448
00:24:30,730 --> 00:24:34,864
but particularly the mother
of all ingredients: salt.
449
00:24:34,908 --> 00:24:37,780
And you know what's funny?
That when I was in France,
450
00:24:37,824 --> 00:24:40,261
I learned about all
these different types of salt.
451
00:24:40,304 --> 00:24:42,002
And for my surprise,
when I came to Mérida
452
00:24:42,045 --> 00:24:43,786
and I learned that
the quality of the product
453
00:24:43,830 --> 00:24:45,832
that we have here
was just, like,
454
00:24:45,875 --> 00:24:48,095
really above and beyond on--
455
00:24:48,138 --> 00:24:50,227
- A global level?
- Yes, on a global level.
456
00:24:50,271 --> 00:24:52,534
So you traveled the world
just to return home
457
00:24:52,578 --> 00:24:54,536
and find you guys have
the best salt in the world.
458
00:24:54,580 --> 00:24:55,537
Yes.
459
00:24:55,581 --> 00:24:57,844
Oh, yes.
I definitely think so.
460
00:25:02,152 --> 00:25:05,808
50 miles west
of Mérida is Celestún,
461
00:25:05,852 --> 00:25:07,636
an Instagrammer's paradise.
462
00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:10,204
Pink lakes, flamingos,
blue skies,
463
00:25:10,247 --> 00:25:13,990
and blinding white salt flats.
464
00:25:14,034 --> 00:25:16,079
Were you born in Yucatán?
Yes.
465
00:25:16,123 --> 00:25:18,212
I was born and raised
in Mérida.
466
00:25:18,255 --> 00:25:19,866
Well, my mother came
to live here
467
00:25:19,909 --> 00:25:23,217
when she was from the U.S.,
when she was 18 years old.
468
00:25:23,260 --> 00:25:24,827
She was born in Pennsylvania.
469
00:25:24,871 --> 00:25:26,176
- So she's American.
- Yeah.
470
00:25:26,220 --> 00:25:28,396
- We're both Mexican-American.
- Yes!
471
00:25:28,439 --> 00:25:31,921
Do you ever find it difficult
to navigate that identity,
472
00:25:31,965 --> 00:25:33,357
or you love it?
473
00:25:33,401 --> 00:25:35,403
Growing up in Mérida,
for me,
474
00:25:35,446 --> 00:25:37,361
I used to be very shy about it.
475
00:25:37,405 --> 00:25:38,928
I was a fish out of water.
476
00:25:38,972 --> 00:25:40,103
You know,
people always say, like,
477
00:25:40,147 --> 00:25:42,366
"Oh, you're half Mexican,
half American?"
478
00:25:42,410 --> 00:25:44,325
I'm like, "No.
I'm 100% Mexican..."
479
00:25:44,368 --> 00:25:46,414
- Yes, I know.
- "And 100% American
480
00:25:46,457 --> 00:25:48,590
at the same time,
all the time."
481
00:25:48,634 --> 00:25:50,287
That's what I try to do
with my cooking,
482
00:25:50,331 --> 00:25:51,941
just to be unapologetic
483
00:25:51,985 --> 00:25:55,075
and just like the confidence
that you give out to the world.
484
00:25:55,118 --> 00:25:56,946
Oh, are these the salt lakes?
485
00:25:56,990 --> 00:25:58,992
Yes, this is where it starts.
486
00:26:01,081 --> 00:26:05,215
The salt flats of Celestún
produce many forms of salt,
487
00:26:05,259 --> 00:26:07,827
but flor de sal is the purest.
488
00:26:07,870 --> 00:26:11,395
It's the magical result
of climate and geography.
489
00:26:11,439 --> 00:26:14,268
Salty seawater combines
with sweet rain,
490
00:26:14,311 --> 00:26:16,531
slowly evaporating
in the tropical heat.
491
00:26:16,575 --> 00:26:20,666
And it leaves behind
this pinkish-colored crystal.
492
00:26:22,232 --> 00:26:23,538
- Hola, Manuel.
- Hola. Buenos días.
493
00:26:23,582 --> 00:26:24,757
Presentó Eva.
494
00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:26,454
- Hola. Eva. Mucho gusto.
- Mucho gusto.
495
00:26:46,474 --> 00:26:47,910
Oh, wow.
496
00:26:47,954 --> 00:26:49,346
Sí.
497
00:26:49,390 --> 00:26:51,827
The crystals here,
they're much bigger
498
00:26:51,871 --> 00:26:53,742
than, like, a regular salt...
Yeah, yeah.
499
00:26:53,786 --> 00:26:55,352
- That you would have.
- They're huge.
500
00:26:55,396 --> 00:26:58,181
But it takes much longer
to dissolve when you eat it.
501
00:26:58,225 --> 00:27:00,053
This salt will not leave us
502
00:27:00,096 --> 00:27:02,272
with, like,
a real metallic flavor.
503
00:27:14,371 --> 00:27:15,938
And this is also linked
504
00:27:15,982 --> 00:27:18,637
to when the flamingos come
and visit Celestún.
505
00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:20,943
It's said that the flamingos
get this pink color
506
00:27:20,987 --> 00:27:22,641
because they eat the artemia.
507
00:27:22,684 --> 00:27:26,253
The harvesting of the
flor de sal is so delicate,
508
00:27:26,296 --> 00:27:27,515
it has to be done by hand.
509
00:27:27,558 --> 00:27:29,038
Oh, God.
I'm gonna mess it up.
510
00:27:29,082 --> 00:27:30,518
They say
if you don't scoop it right,
511
00:27:30,561 --> 00:27:33,434
then it just
becomes normal salt!
512
00:27:33,477 --> 00:27:36,350
No wonder it's the most
expensive salt in the world.
513
00:27:37,612 --> 00:27:40,484
- Brilliant!
- I did it.
514
00:27:43,313 --> 00:27:46,490
Now, this is a perfect spot
for lunch.
515
00:27:46,534 --> 00:27:48,667
Wow!
So this is a sea bass.
516
00:27:48,710 --> 00:27:50,320
You don't understand
how excited I am
517
00:27:50,364 --> 00:27:53,367
to finally eat fish
on a beach in the Yucatán.
518
00:27:53,410 --> 00:27:55,282
Do you know what?
I'm surprised
519
00:27:55,325 --> 00:27:57,197
that there isn't more seafood
520
00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,373
in the Yucatán cuisine.
I know.
521
00:27:59,416 --> 00:28:01,636
Back in the day,
people didn't have the ability
522
00:28:01,680 --> 00:28:03,551
to refrigerate food
at their homes.
523
00:28:03,594 --> 00:28:05,292
- Mm-hmm.
- My grandmother would tell me
524
00:28:05,335 --> 00:28:06,815
that when she grew up,
people thought
525
00:28:06,859 --> 00:28:09,296
that they were gonna get sick
of eating fish
526
00:28:09,339 --> 00:28:10,732
that was caught,
like, in the morning.
527
00:28:10,776 --> 00:28:13,561
And with the heat, the food
would spoil really fast.
528
00:28:13,604 --> 00:28:16,912
The fish is stuffed
with garlic, rosemary, thyme,
529
00:28:16,956 --> 00:28:19,349
that Yucatán favorite,
sour orange,
530
00:28:19,393 --> 00:28:21,787
and of course,
a healthy dose of salt.
531
00:28:21,830 --> 00:28:25,399
When you have ingredients
this fresh, simplicity is key.
532
00:28:25,442 --> 00:28:27,880
You have specialized
in, like, opening up
533
00:28:27,923 --> 00:28:31,971
the gastronomy here outside of
the traditional Yucatán dishes.
534
00:28:32,014 --> 00:28:33,233
I feel that here
in Yucatán,
535
00:28:33,276 --> 00:28:35,626
there are so many
great ingredients
536
00:28:35,670 --> 00:28:38,804
that I want to just let the
ingredients speak for itself.
537
00:28:38,847 --> 00:28:42,372
We're gonna put some oil on it
to start out.
538
00:28:42,416 --> 00:28:44,418
We're gonna prepare the brush.
539
00:28:44,461 --> 00:28:47,900
And this brush is gonna
be our secret weapon
540
00:28:47,943 --> 00:28:50,424
to just layer up
all these herbs.
541
00:28:50,467 --> 00:28:52,905
This is a great idea,
an herb brush.
542
00:28:52,948 --> 00:28:55,690
Oh, that smells so good.
543
00:28:55,734 --> 00:28:58,649
A brush made of parsley,
rosemary, and thyme
544
00:28:58,693 --> 00:29:01,914
is also a neat way
to apply the garlic purée.
545
00:29:01,957 --> 00:29:04,525
Oh, that's gorgeous.
546
00:29:04,568 --> 00:29:08,007
We're gonna do some mangoes,
also grilled.
547
00:29:08,050 --> 00:29:10,226
And salt!
548
00:29:10,270 --> 00:29:11,967
This is my idea
of food heaven.
549
00:29:12,011 --> 00:29:15,971
Truly, I'd have this
as my last meal on Earth.
550
00:29:16,015 --> 00:29:17,581
- I'm gonna bring some of the--
- Bring the salt!
551
00:29:17,625 --> 00:29:19,105
- Flor.
- Bring the salt.
552
00:29:26,155 --> 00:29:28,984
Fish on a beach.
Now, I feel like I'm in Mexico.
553
00:29:29,028 --> 00:29:31,291
I put my onions first.
554
00:29:31,334 --> 00:29:33,162
Now, for the star ingredient.
555
00:29:33,206 --> 00:29:36,296
- This is the flor de sal, so--
- This is the flor de--
556
00:29:36,339 --> 00:29:37,514
- Yeah.
- This is what we harvested.
557
00:29:37,558 --> 00:29:39,778
You're just gonna
put a little, tiny bit.
558
00:29:39,821 --> 00:29:41,867
So what's the secret
in all of this?
559
00:29:41,910 --> 00:29:45,653
It's to season to perfection
all the ingredients
560
00:29:45,696 --> 00:29:48,612
so that when you add the flor
de sal, you don't overseason.
561
00:29:48,656 --> 00:29:50,614
- Yeah, mm-hmm.
- OK?
562
00:29:56,795 --> 00:29:57,970
Mmm.
563
00:29:59,754 --> 00:30:01,538
Wow.
564
00:30:01,582 --> 00:30:04,324
Mmm, that fish is amazing!
565
00:30:04,367 --> 00:30:08,241
The contrast of the crunchy
salt and the soft, sweet fish
566
00:30:08,284 --> 00:30:09,503
is just sublime.
567
00:30:09,546 --> 00:30:11,548
I feel like the Yucatán
568
00:30:11,592 --> 00:30:15,161
has the most appreciation
for the land and the rain
569
00:30:15,204 --> 00:30:16,640
and the natural elements
570
00:30:16,684 --> 00:30:18,338
and the fruit
that comes from the tree.
571
00:30:18,381 --> 00:30:21,123
Like,
there's such a thank you to...
572
00:30:21,167 --> 00:30:22,733
- Yes.
- La tierra.
573
00:30:22,777 --> 00:30:25,301
We have
delicious ingredients.
574
00:30:25,345 --> 00:30:28,652
And with delicious ingredients,
we can make delicious recipes.
575
00:30:44,059 --> 00:30:46,105
This is huge!
576
00:30:50,326 --> 00:30:54,809
Part of the magic of Yucatán
is its world-famous pyramids,
577
00:30:54,853 --> 00:30:57,072
a reminder that the Maya
have been shaping
578
00:30:57,116 --> 00:31:00,554
the landscape and culture here
for the last 4,000 years.
579
00:31:03,383 --> 00:31:06,299
In honor
of my own Mayan ancestry,
580
00:31:06,342 --> 00:31:08,954
I'm making a pilgrimage
to Uxmal.
581
00:31:08,997 --> 00:31:11,521
Only 40 minutes' drive
from Mérida,
582
00:31:11,565 --> 00:31:13,915
but it feels like
a world away.
583
00:31:13,959 --> 00:31:15,395
Don Pepe!
Ah.
584
00:31:15,438 --> 00:31:17,179
Don Pepe is
a Mayan archaeologist,
585
00:31:17,223 --> 00:31:20,661
and he knows the secrets
to this sacred site.
586
00:31:20,704 --> 00:31:23,403
And it's probably why he got
the cool hat and I didn't.
587
00:31:33,195 --> 00:31:37,983
No.
588
00:31:40,333 --> 00:31:42,944
Uxmal was built around 500 AD,
589
00:31:42,988 --> 00:31:45,773
and the level of detail here
is mind-blowing.
590
00:32:09,231 --> 00:32:11,538
Little wonder
they worship the god of rain.
591
00:32:11,581 --> 00:32:12,974
Apart from the cenotes,
592
00:32:13,018 --> 00:32:16,804
there are no lakes or rivers
in Yucatán.
593
00:32:45,180 --> 00:32:48,879
This ability to collect
water and irrigate crops
594
00:32:48,923 --> 00:32:51,230
allowed the ancient Maya
to put down roots here
595
00:32:51,273 --> 00:32:53,406
and call it home.
596
00:32:58,977 --> 00:33:01,544
So I've heard
that Don Pepe is a great cook.
597
00:33:01,588 --> 00:33:03,807
He and his wife, Maria,
make this signature
598
00:33:03,851 --> 00:33:06,941
pork and bean broth
inspired by Yucatán's history.
599
00:33:08,943 --> 00:33:11,598
The pork, a nod
to the later arrival
600
00:33:11,641 --> 00:33:13,339
of the Spanish conquistadores.
601
00:33:23,131 --> 00:33:24,045
Uh-huh.
602
00:33:27,483 --> 00:33:28,658
Uh-huh.
603
00:33:32,880 --> 00:33:34,708
In honor
of the Mayan rain god,
604
00:33:34,751 --> 00:33:36,927
water plays a key part.
605
00:33:39,191 --> 00:33:42,716
Epazote is a bitter herb
that many Mexicans swear
606
00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:44,848
stops the gassy side effects
of beans.
607
00:33:44,892 --> 00:33:46,807
Oh, my gosh,
I love beans,
608
00:33:46,850 --> 00:33:48,548
so I know
I'm gonna love this one.
609
00:33:51,246 --> 00:33:52,595
Oh, sal. OK.
610
00:34:00,908 --> 00:34:01,952
Uh-huh.
611
00:34:08,916 --> 00:34:10,004
Sí.
612
00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:12,006
Of course
it's cooked underground.
613
00:34:12,050 --> 00:34:14,965
This is Yucatán.
614
00:34:15,009 --> 00:34:17,881
Thankfully, Don Pepe
already has one in the oven.
615
00:34:17,925 --> 00:34:19,231
Wow, I think you win...
Sí.
616
00:34:19,274 --> 00:34:21,929
the underground contest
of most hours.
617
00:34:24,105 --> 00:34:25,672
El olor, yeah.
618
00:34:25,715 --> 00:34:27,456
Oh, that smells good.
619
00:34:32,374 --> 00:34:33,680
Wow.
620
00:34:33,723 --> 00:34:37,249
Mmm, it tastes like
barbecue in a soup.
621
00:34:37,292 --> 00:34:38,641
Smells amazing.
622
00:34:38,685 --> 00:34:40,078
Oh, look at that.
Look at that.
623
00:34:41,470 --> 00:34:43,603
This is the pork.
624
00:34:44,821 --> 00:34:46,127
Oh, my gosh!
Sí.
625
00:34:46,171 --> 00:34:47,955
I'm so excited about this.
626
00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:54,135
Wow, this is, like,
627
00:34:54,179 --> 00:34:56,485
definitely slow-cooked.
628
00:34:56,529 --> 00:34:58,922
This is just falling apart.
629
00:34:58,966 --> 00:35:00,272
Look at this one.
Lookit. Lookit.
630
00:35:00,315 --> 00:35:01,534
Oh.
631
00:35:09,977 --> 00:35:11,283
Mmm.
632
00:35:11,326 --> 00:35:12,762
Mmm.
633
00:35:21,728 --> 00:35:23,295
- OK.
- ¿Claro?
634
00:35:23,338 --> 00:35:26,080
Wow, you can really
taste the smokiness.
635
00:35:32,956 --> 00:35:34,741
In the U.S.,
we get jittery
636
00:35:34,784 --> 00:35:36,656
if our fast food isn't
fast enough,
637
00:35:36,699 --> 00:35:38,353
but here in Yucatán,
638
00:35:38,397 --> 00:35:41,269
no one bats an eye if dinner
takes two days to cook.
639
00:35:41,313 --> 00:35:42,618
Mmm.
640
00:35:42,662 --> 00:35:44,838
Sitting in the shadow
of Uxmal,
641
00:35:44,881 --> 00:35:46,753
their pyramids are
a constant reminder
642
00:35:46,796 --> 00:35:48,929
that good things take time.
643
00:36:03,552 --> 00:36:06,076
I'm arriving in Izamal.
644
00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:10,080
This town used to be known
for a Mayan pilgrimage.
645
00:36:10,124 --> 00:36:12,866
There's a lot of pyramids
around.
646
00:36:12,909 --> 00:36:14,955
But now, it's really
a food destination.
647
00:36:14,998 --> 00:36:16,826
So today, we are going
to be making
648
00:36:16,870 --> 00:36:19,612
our food pilgrimage here.
649
00:36:19,655 --> 00:36:22,354
40 miles east of Mérida
is Izamal,
650
00:36:22,397 --> 00:36:26,271
known as the Yellow City.
651
00:36:26,314 --> 00:36:28,055
You know you've arrived
when you're surrounded
652
00:36:28,098 --> 00:36:30,492
with golden yellow walls
on every street,
653
00:36:30,536 --> 00:36:33,974
on every building.
654
00:36:34,017 --> 00:36:35,454
Even the city's largest
655
00:36:35,497 --> 00:36:37,412
and most important building
is yellow:
656
00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:40,241
the Monastery
of St. Anthony of Padua.
657
00:36:42,809 --> 00:36:46,247
Hola.
658
00:36:46,291 --> 00:36:48,728
Local restaurateur
and Miriam Azcorra
659
00:36:48,771 --> 00:36:50,904
was born and raised in Izamal.
660
00:36:53,689 --> 00:36:55,125
Oh.
661
00:37:00,566 --> 00:37:01,697
Mm-hmm.
662
00:37:02,916 --> 00:37:04,352
- Oh, my gosh.
- Sí.
663
00:37:04,396 --> 00:37:06,180
When the Spanish
conquered Izamal,
664
00:37:06,224 --> 00:37:08,051
they dismantled the pyramids,
665
00:37:08,095 --> 00:37:11,098
forcing the Maya
to repurpose the stones.
666
00:37:13,753 --> 00:37:14,884
¿No?
667
00:37:22,979 --> 00:37:24,242
- Con las piedras.
- Con las piedras.
668
00:37:32,337 --> 00:37:34,904
The monastery was built
for a Christian god,
669
00:37:34,948 --> 00:37:36,645
but it remained holy
to the Maya,
670
00:37:36,689 --> 00:37:40,780
who worshipped the sacred
stones of their former temple.
671
00:37:43,652 --> 00:37:44,740
Mm-hmm.
672
00:37:52,705 --> 00:37:54,620
Así. Wow.
673
00:38:04,499 --> 00:38:07,415
There are many theories
of why the town is yellow.
674
00:38:07,459 --> 00:38:10,113
The most likely is because the
largest pyramid in the area
675
00:38:10,157 --> 00:38:12,464
was dedicated
to the sun god,
676
00:38:12,507 --> 00:38:16,729
but that's not the only
yellow ball deified here.
677
00:38:18,992 --> 00:38:20,863
- Es queso.
- Wow.
678
00:38:26,173 --> 00:38:29,437
Amazingly, Dutch cheese
is the main ingredient
679
00:38:29,481 --> 00:38:32,353
of queso relleno.
680
00:38:32,397 --> 00:38:34,747
It's the signature dish at
Miriam's restaurant, Kinich,
681
00:38:34,790 --> 00:38:37,924
which specializes
in home-cooked comfort food.
682
00:38:42,711 --> 00:38:44,496
How did Dutch cheese get here
683
00:38:44,539 --> 00:38:47,150
and become the most famous dish
of this region?
684
00:38:52,460 --> 00:38:53,374
Uh-huh.
685
00:38:55,245 --> 00:38:56,812
But unlike the Europeans
686
00:38:56,856 --> 00:39:00,250
who prized these golden globes
for the cheese inside,
687
00:39:00,294 --> 00:39:01,948
here, it's all about the part
688
00:39:01,991 --> 00:39:03,428
that I would usually
throw away.
689
00:39:03,471 --> 00:39:05,821
So you're not gonna use
the inside of the cheese?
690
00:39:05,865 --> 00:39:07,345
You're gonna use
the outside of the cheese?
691
00:39:07,388 --> 00:39:08,346
The outside.
692
00:39:09,695 --> 00:39:11,523
It's said that once
the wealthy merchants
693
00:39:11,566 --> 00:39:13,351
had scooped out
the creamy cheese,
694
00:39:13,394 --> 00:39:15,483
their servants found
an ingenious use
695
00:39:15,527 --> 00:39:17,180
for the discarded rind.
696
00:39:17,224 --> 00:39:18,486
OK.
697
00:39:19,705 --> 00:39:20,880
OK.
698
00:39:24,797 --> 00:39:28,496
The meat of choice?
A familiar favorite: pork.
699
00:39:32,761 --> 00:39:33,936
Sí, igual.
700
00:39:35,416 --> 00:39:36,374
Uh-huh.
701
00:39:51,389 --> 00:39:52,477
Mm.
702
00:39:59,614 --> 00:40:01,660
Mm-hmm.
703
00:40:01,703 --> 00:40:02,878
- Capers.
- Alcaparras.
704
00:40:02,922 --> 00:40:06,055
I love capers,
so let's put more.
705
00:40:06,099 --> 00:40:07,492
Oh, this is almonds?
706
00:40:07,535 --> 00:40:09,842
Mediterranean bay leaves
and olives
707
00:40:09,885 --> 00:40:13,367
also go into the pot,
and then it's cooked again.
708
00:40:17,327 --> 00:40:19,417
So we close it back
in a cheesecloth.
709
00:40:22,463 --> 00:40:24,944
So it's just
gonna take a bath.
710
00:40:28,382 --> 00:40:29,339
Mm.
711
00:40:30,906 --> 00:40:32,604
Sí.
712
00:40:32,647 --> 00:40:33,779
Yeah.
713
00:40:36,999 --> 00:40:39,001
Oh, yeah.
That's soft.
714
00:40:39,045 --> 00:40:41,874
At last,
our queso relleno is ready.
715
00:40:41,917 --> 00:40:44,964
Now, I understand what
bursting with flavor means.
716
00:40:45,007 --> 00:40:47,140
Ooh, can I touch it?
717
00:40:47,183 --> 00:40:48,141
Yes.
718
00:40:50,491 --> 00:40:52,406
Oh, my goodness.
719
00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:55,453
That looks really good!
720
00:40:55,496 --> 00:40:58,847
Over 16 ingredients
and three stages later,
721
00:40:58,891 --> 00:41:03,852
it's finished with a Mayan
corn sauce and tomato salsa.
722
00:41:03,896 --> 00:41:06,638
This is one intricate dish,
723
00:41:06,681 --> 00:41:10,772
and I can see why diners come
here to enjoy its complexity.
724
00:41:10,816 --> 00:41:12,382
Gracias.
725
00:41:15,647 --> 00:41:16,909
Mmm.
726
00:41:16,952 --> 00:41:18,171
Mm.
727
00:41:19,694 --> 00:41:20,913
Wow.
728
00:41:20,956 --> 00:41:22,480
Mmm.
Mmm.
729
00:41:24,525 --> 00:41:26,527
Oh, that's so good.
730
00:41:27,572 --> 00:41:28,573
Mm-hmm.
731
00:41:37,756 --> 00:41:41,977
For me, this is the dish
that sums up Yucatán.
732
00:41:42,021 --> 00:41:44,371
It's a region
that isn't afraid
733
00:41:44,414 --> 00:41:46,286
to embrace different cultures.
734
00:41:46,329 --> 00:41:48,593
The people here are so secure
735
00:41:48,636 --> 00:41:51,378
in who they are
and where they come from.
736
00:41:51,421 --> 00:41:54,163
New influences are simply
blended with the ancient
737
00:41:54,207 --> 00:41:56,165
to create something unique.
738
00:41:56,209 --> 00:41:58,037
In Yucatán,
there's an appreciation
739
00:41:58,080 --> 00:42:00,909
that good things
are worth the wait.
53066
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