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So we're coming down
through Calabria,
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00:00:12,490 --> 00:00:14,840
on a train obviously.
3
00:00:14,884 --> 00:00:16,494
We're going to Sicily,
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00:00:16,538 --> 00:00:19,889
the biggest island
in the Mediterranean.
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00:00:19,932 --> 00:00:21,586
Because there is no bridge,
6
00:00:21,630 --> 00:00:25,938
they take the train and
put it onto a ferry.
7
00:00:25,982 --> 00:00:28,724
Oh, we're getting on it!
Well, that's exciting.
8
00:00:28,767 --> 00:00:33,511
And you can see the tracks here,
where the other cars will go.
9
00:00:33,555 --> 00:00:35,687
I love trains, but
I like the idea
10
00:00:35,731 --> 00:00:38,603
that the train goes on a boat.
11
00:00:38,647 --> 00:00:40,233
I think we should get
a car on top of this
12
00:00:40,257 --> 00:00:42,129
and be in a car on
a train on a boat
13
00:00:42,172 --> 00:00:44,044
and then have a horse
on top of the car.
14
00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:47,569
I'm Stanley Tucci.
15
00:00:47,612 --> 00:00:49,962
I'm fascinated by
my Italian heritage,
16
00:00:50,006 --> 00:00:53,183
and I'm traveling across
Italy to discover how the food
17
00:00:53,227 --> 00:00:55,794
in each of this
country's 20 regions
18
00:00:55,838 --> 00:00:58,536
is as unique as the
people and their past.
19
00:01:02,323 --> 00:01:06,544
Sicily is a mythical
land of contrasts -
20
00:01:06,588 --> 00:01:09,460
fire and water,
21
00:01:09,504 --> 00:01:12,159
dry and fertile,
22
00:01:12,202 --> 00:01:13,986
refined
23
00:01:14,030 --> 00:01:15,510
That's very French.
24
00:01:15,553 --> 00:01:17,033
And rough.
25
00:01:24,519 --> 00:01:27,130
How did one of the
poorest regions in Europe
26
00:01:27,174 --> 00:01:29,437
- What do you think?
- I love it.
27
00:01:29,480 --> 00:01:33,093
Create the richest of cuisines?
28
00:01:33,136 --> 00:01:34,790
That's so good.
29
00:01:34,833 --> 00:01:36,400
Get ready
30
00:01:36,444 --> 00:01:39,055
This is delicious. I want
to take a bath in it.
31
00:01:39,099 --> 00:01:40,056
Every mouthful here
32
00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:41,231
Mmm, that's wonderful.
33
00:01:41,275 --> 00:01:43,146
Is an eruption of flavor.
34
00:01:43,190 --> 00:01:46,976
My god that's so
good. Mmm, my god!
35
00:01:59,902 --> 00:02:01,817
Before I arrive in Sicily,
36
00:02:01,860 --> 00:02:03,471
there's one
delicious food ritual
37
00:02:03,514 --> 00:02:05,168
that I have to experience.
38
00:02:05,212 --> 00:02:07,475
It's a tradition to eat these
39
00:02:07,518 --> 00:02:13,568
while you're a boat passing
this statue of the Madonna.
40
00:02:13,611 --> 00:02:15,265
These are arancini.
41
00:02:15,309 --> 00:02:16,440
Look at that.
42
00:02:16,484 --> 00:02:18,225
These beautiful little cones
43
00:02:18,268 --> 00:02:22,403
are rice with
saffron, peas, meat.
44
00:02:22,446 --> 00:02:25,971
The story goes that the
Arabs brought these to Sicily
45
00:02:26,015 --> 00:02:27,625
in the 9th Century.
46
00:02:27,669 --> 00:02:30,367
Hand-rolled rice,
with a meat filling.
47
00:02:30,411 --> 00:02:32,108
Breaded and fried.
48
00:02:32,152 --> 00:02:33,805
That's good.
49
00:02:33,849 --> 00:02:36,199
The taste of
arancini, I am told,
50
00:02:36,243 --> 00:02:39,115
is the taste of home
for all Sicilians.
51
00:02:44,164 --> 00:02:47,950
Just a few miles off the
toe of the boot of Italy
52
00:02:47,993 --> 00:02:50,170
lies the island of Sicily
53
00:02:50,213 --> 00:02:52,215
it's southernmost region,
54
00:02:52,259 --> 00:02:54,391
and with volcanic
soil so fertile,
55
00:02:54,435 --> 00:02:57,916
it's nickname is God's Kitchen.
56
00:02:57,960 --> 00:03:03,574
But Sicily is also said to
be home to the gates of Hell.
57
00:03:03,618 --> 00:03:06,838
Impoverished for centuries,
conquered by everyone
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00:03:06,882 --> 00:03:09,232
from the Arabs to the French,
59
00:03:09,276 --> 00:03:12,322
and haunted by its
mafia connections.
60
00:03:12,366 --> 00:03:14,455
The locals have learned
to make the most
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00:03:14,498 --> 00:03:16,805
of what they've got.
62
00:03:16,848 --> 00:03:18,981
In this fiercely
traditional region,
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00:03:19,024 --> 00:03:20,896
things are changing.
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00:03:20,939 --> 00:03:24,116
And I want to discover the
effect it's having on the food.
65
00:03:30,645 --> 00:03:32,386
Classic Sicilian cuisine
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00:03:32,429 --> 00:03:35,258
is harnessing the power
of simple ingredients
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00:03:35,302 --> 00:03:37,260
and allowing them to shine.
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00:03:37,304 --> 00:03:40,263
Don't mistake
uncomplicated for bland.
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00:03:40,307 --> 00:03:42,744
Seafood, vegetables and pasta
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00:03:42,787 --> 00:03:45,442
only need a little
local olive oil
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00:03:45,486 --> 00:03:48,967
and salt to reveal
their sublime qualities.
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00:03:50,708 --> 00:03:53,015
Just outside the
capital, Palermo,
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00:03:53,058 --> 00:03:55,322
in a seaside town
called Bagheria,
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00:03:55,365 --> 00:03:57,193
an amazing self-taught chef
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00:03:57,237 --> 00:03:59,848
has built his reputation
on the basics.
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00:04:07,551 --> 00:04:09,597
- Ciao.
- Ciao.
77
00:04:09,640 --> 00:04:11,903
Tony Lo Coco left school at 17
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00:04:11,947 --> 00:04:15,603
to work with his dad making
stained glass for churches
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00:04:15,646 --> 00:04:18,083
but he fell in love with food
80
00:04:18,127 --> 00:04:22,479
and now owns a Michelin-starred
restaurant called I Pupi.
81
00:04:30,487 --> 00:04:33,534
Tony is cooking his version
of the Sicilian classic,
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spaghetti alla bottarga.
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00:04:42,847 --> 00:04:44,893
Oh I see, it creates
a little texture to it
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00:04:44,936 --> 00:04:47,069
which helps the
sauce stick to it
85
00:04:47,112 --> 00:04:50,028
which ends up giving
everything a better flavor.
86
00:04:50,072 --> 00:04:52,944
What could be more Italian
than spaghetti, right?
87
00:04:52,988 --> 00:04:55,077
Well, wrong.
88
00:04:55,120 --> 00:04:58,167
It's said that spaghetti
was invented by the Arabs
89
00:04:58,210 --> 00:05:00,865
who brought it to Sicily
a thousand years ago.
90
00:05:00,909 --> 00:05:02,302
But the Arabs ate
their spaghetti
91
00:05:02,345 --> 00:05:04,086
with raisins and cinnamon.
92
00:05:04,129 --> 00:05:06,567
Very different to the
savory dishes of today,
93
00:05:06,610 --> 00:05:07,698
like this one.
94
00:05:16,620 --> 00:05:20,407
Bottarga is a solid
block of dried fish eggs,
95
00:05:20,450 --> 00:05:22,104
tuna in this case.
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00:05:22,147 --> 00:05:24,672
Tony is so proud of
his signature dish
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00:05:24,715 --> 00:05:26,978
he has named it Spaghettony.
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00:05:29,590 --> 00:05:33,811
Garam. This is like what
the Romans used to make.
99
00:05:33,855 --> 00:05:36,466
Right. This is the
secret to the flavor.
100
00:05:36,510 --> 00:05:38,990
This gives it that intensity.
101
00:05:39,034 --> 00:05:42,429
Garam was sort of
like Roman ketchup
102
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sort of, maybe.
103
00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:49,784
Tony then adds lemon
zest, Sicilian of course,
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00:05:49,827 --> 00:05:51,960
and an avalanche of bottarga.
105
00:05:56,660 --> 00:05:58,445
On top he adds salted,
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00:05:58,488 --> 00:06:01,361
dehydrated fried
capers for crunch
107
00:06:01,404 --> 00:06:04,059
and dried breadcrumbs
ground down with anchovies,
108
00:06:04,102 --> 00:06:07,410
which is called mullica.
109
00:06:07,454 --> 00:06:09,780
This is the mullica that people
used to use who lived by the sea
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00:06:09,804 --> 00:06:11,632
because they didn't have cheese,
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00:06:11,675 --> 00:06:14,983
this in essence took
the place of cheese.
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00:06:15,026 --> 00:06:17,507
Voila. Come on.
113
00:06:17,551 --> 00:06:18,856
- Oh!
- Oh no!
114
00:06:21,163 --> 00:06:23,426
That'’s beautiful.
115
00:06:27,691 --> 00:06:29,084
Goddamn it, mm!
116
00:06:32,174 --> 00:06:34,394
Thank you.
That's so good.
117
00:06:34,437 --> 00:06:38,049
My god that's so
good. Mmm, my god!
118
00:06:42,097 --> 00:06:44,142
The core, the soul
of your restaurant,
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00:06:44,186 --> 00:06:47,537
is taking really simple food
of Sicily and elevating it.
120
00:06:47,581 --> 00:06:48,581
Yes.
121
00:07:20,048 --> 00:07:23,747
It turns out Tony is
a culinary linguist.
122
00:07:43,854 --> 00:07:46,509
Jesus, I feel guilty.
123
00:07:57,651 --> 00:07:59,696
I just love this idea.
124
00:08:09,880 --> 00:08:11,578
I want to live with you.
125
00:08:20,761 --> 00:08:22,719
Tony created something
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00:08:22,763 --> 00:08:24,808
that a lot of people
aren't able to create.
127
00:08:24,852 --> 00:08:28,551
He's able to take
these traditional foods
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00:08:28,595 --> 00:08:30,248
and elevate them.
129
00:08:31,902 --> 00:08:33,556
He loves where he comes from
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00:08:33,600 --> 00:08:38,126
and he just wants to
make everything better.
131
00:08:38,169 --> 00:08:39,780
That's not a bad trait.
132
00:08:51,922 --> 00:08:55,622
Look at that little cluster
of buildings up there.
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00:08:55,665 --> 00:08:58,581
All these old abandoned farms.
134
00:08:58,625 --> 00:09:00,496
In the south east of the island
135
00:09:00,540 --> 00:09:03,891
the picturesque baroque
town of Victoria
136
00:09:03,934 --> 00:09:06,981
rises surrounded by
stark, hilly fields.
137
00:09:07,024 --> 00:09:10,506
This area is known for
its grapes and I'm parched
138
00:09:10,550 --> 00:09:11,768
so I'm in the right place.
139
00:09:15,119 --> 00:09:18,514
Sicily has a reputation
for being a traditional,
140
00:09:18,558 --> 00:09:20,603
rather macho society
141
00:09:20,647 --> 00:09:23,737
so until recently, wine-making,
like many professions here,
142
00:09:23,780 --> 00:09:25,739
was controlled by men.
143
00:09:25,782 --> 00:09:28,176
But the wine-maker
I'm about to meet
144
00:09:28,219 --> 00:09:30,221
is definitely bucking the trend.
145
00:09:32,528 --> 00:09:35,662
This is 38 year old
Arianna Occhipinti.
146
00:09:35,705 --> 00:09:38,534
So, tell me everything.
147
00:09:51,242 --> 00:09:52,287
What is the grape?
148
00:09:55,290 --> 00:09:56,770
And Nero d'Avola
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00:09:56,813 --> 00:09:58,685
is a very common grape
in Sicily, isn't it?
150
00:10:12,046 --> 00:10:13,830
Sicily is one of the oldest
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00:10:13,874 --> 00:10:16,398
wine-producing
regions in the world,
152
00:10:16,441 --> 00:10:18,574
but it's wine is often
thought to be too bold,
153
00:10:18,618 --> 00:10:21,229
perhaps fine to blend
with other wines
154
00:10:21,272 --> 00:10:24,624
but nothing to be
celebrated on its own.
155
00:10:24,667 --> 00:10:26,626
But Arianna is said
to be producing
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00:10:26,669 --> 00:10:28,410
a more delicate vintage.
157
00:10:38,463 --> 00:10:39,551
So what should it be?
158
00:10:40,857 --> 00:10:42,032
- It should be brown?
- Yeah.
159
00:10:47,298 --> 00:10:48,386
It is sweet.
160
00:10:48,430 --> 00:10:50,301
It's very sweet,
161
00:10:50,345 --> 00:10:52,671
it's actually much sweeter than
I thought it was going to be.
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00:10:52,695 --> 00:10:56,046
Next to Arianna's vineyard
lie abandoned farms,
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00:10:56,090 --> 00:10:59,136
a reminder that Sicily has
the worst unemployment rate
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00:10:59,180 --> 00:11:01,530
in Italy.
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00:11:01,573 --> 00:11:03,227
Thousands of young Sicilians
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have left the island
in search of work.
167
00:11:07,579 --> 00:11:09,973
So you had a lot of
friends who left,
168
00:11:10,017 --> 00:11:11,409
and where did they go,
169
00:11:11,453 --> 00:11:13,716
what did they end up doing?
170
00:11:30,515 --> 00:11:32,015
So the farm
ends up shutting down
171
00:11:32,039 --> 00:11:33,407
or the vineyard ends
up shutting down.
172
00:11:33,431 --> 00:11:34,476
Yes.
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00:11:34,519 --> 00:11:36,347
Arianna was inspired
174
00:11:36,391 --> 00:11:38,349
by the potential of the
southern Sicilian soil.
175
00:11:47,489 --> 00:11:51,275
Her organic vines produce lower
yields but fruitier aromas,
176
00:11:51,319 --> 00:11:54,757
and her varieties are deeply
rooted in the local land.
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00:11:54,801 --> 00:11:56,063
So you're from here?
178
00:12:25,135 --> 00:12:27,224
Arianna's dedication is evident
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00:12:27,268 --> 00:12:29,444
in every aspect of her business.
180
00:12:33,056 --> 00:12:34,776
I always wondered
how this was done.
181
00:12:46,026 --> 00:12:47,592
It's your piece of art.
182
00:12:47,636 --> 00:12:49,159
It's beautiful.
183
00:12:49,203 --> 00:12:51,553
How many bottles
do you make a year?
184
00:12:53,294 --> 00:12:54,643
Wow.
185
00:12:56,688 --> 00:12:58,908
- Yes! I thought you'd never ask.
- Perfect.
186
00:13:09,919 --> 00:13:13,053
Now I'm hardly a wine expert
but I do know what I like
187
00:13:13,096 --> 00:13:16,273
and that I like drinking it.
188
00:13:16,317 --> 00:13:18,841
This is delicious and I
want to take a bath in it.
189
00:13:18,885 --> 00:13:21,278
- Yes, yes.
- Yeah, yeah.
190
00:13:21,322 --> 00:13:25,456
A lot of Sicilian wines
are quite heavy but it's light...
191
00:13:33,464 --> 00:13:35,858
Arianna's impressive
achievements in the wine world
192
00:13:35,902 --> 00:13:37,817
come from her
steely determination
193
00:13:37,860 --> 00:13:40,863
to choose the artisanal
over the industrial.
194
00:13:40,907 --> 00:13:41,907
That's really good.
195
00:13:48,915 --> 00:13:51,308
And in a region where
only a quarter of women
196
00:13:51,352 --> 00:13:53,267
have joined the workforce,
197
00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,660
her success is nothing
short of revolutionary.
198
00:13:55,704 --> 00:13:58,838
Did you find it difficult,
particularly as a young woman,
199
00:13:58,881 --> 00:14:00,752
to start a business?
200
00:14:32,393 --> 00:14:35,048
And they respect you.
201
00:14:35,091 --> 00:14:37,789
That's great. Well, thank you.
202
00:14:37,833 --> 00:14:40,140
- You're welcome.
- Thank you so much.
203
00:14:40,183 --> 00:14:42,925
Arianna's wine is
ground-breaking
204
00:14:42,969 --> 00:14:44,947
and I have no doubt that in
the hands of people like her
205
00:14:44,971 --> 00:14:47,843
this land will
certainly flourish.
206
00:15:00,987 --> 00:15:05,295
Today I'm in Palermo,
the capital of Sicily,
207
00:15:05,339 --> 00:15:07,907
which is a kind of gritty city.
208
00:15:12,041 --> 00:15:15,175
But in recent years
it's seen gentrification
209
00:15:15,218 --> 00:15:18,613
with the opening of new
shops, restaurants and bars.
210
00:15:22,530 --> 00:15:24,619
The architecture
is extraordinary
211
00:15:24,662 --> 00:15:27,927
and a lot of it is
mostly old structures,
212
00:15:27,970 --> 00:15:30,407
most of which are
completely falling apart
213
00:15:30,451 --> 00:15:33,976
but they're so beautiful.
214
00:15:34,020 --> 00:15:37,458
It's not what I expected,
it's kind of a revelation.
215
00:15:37,501 --> 00:15:40,722
I'm excited to go through
it and explore it.
216
00:15:46,032 --> 00:15:48,773
Palermo was first settled
by Venetian traders
217
00:15:48,817 --> 00:15:50,558
in the 8th Century B.C.
218
00:15:50,601 --> 00:15:52,255
Then the Arabs and the Normans
219
00:15:52,299 --> 00:15:54,344
arrived, or conquered,
220
00:15:54,388 --> 00:15:56,346
and these waves of migration
221
00:15:56,390 --> 00:15:59,001
created an incredibly
beautiful city.
222
00:15:59,045 --> 00:16:00,785
It almost looks
like New Orleans.
223
00:16:00,829 --> 00:16:02,570
When you look down,
224
00:16:02,613 --> 00:16:04,702
you see it's like the
French Quarter, parts of it.
225
00:16:07,575 --> 00:16:10,970
But Palermo's beauty
has come at a cost.
226
00:16:11,013 --> 00:16:12,754
This magnificent architecture
227
00:16:12,797 --> 00:16:15,017
is the legacy of
wealthy land owners
228
00:16:15,061 --> 00:16:18,673
who built grand palazzo's on
the profits of their estates
229
00:16:18,716 --> 00:16:20,980
while their workers
lived in poverty.
230
00:16:24,070 --> 00:16:26,637
When this system collapsed
in the 19th Century
231
00:16:26,681 --> 00:16:29,771
workers moved out of the
countryside and into the city
232
00:16:29,814 --> 00:16:32,339
where poor and rich
now live side by side.
233
00:16:38,562 --> 00:16:41,696
Hidden behind this
400 year old door
234
00:16:41,739 --> 00:16:44,438
is a world I've
never encountered.
235
00:16:44,481 --> 00:16:48,616
I've been invited to dinner
by a real life princess.
236
00:16:48,659 --> 00:16:50,009
Stanley.
237
00:16:55,579 --> 00:16:57,712
Princess Stefania di Raffadali
238
00:16:57,755 --> 00:16:59,714
is one of the last
surviving members
239
00:16:59,757 --> 00:17:01,498
of the Sicilian royal family.
240
00:17:01,542 --> 00:17:03,022
Nice to see you.
241
00:17:03,065 --> 00:17:04,065
Thank you very much.
242
00:17:05,372 --> 00:17:06,938
I'm very happy to be here.
243
00:17:06,982 --> 00:17:08,592
The princess became a royal
244
00:17:08,636 --> 00:17:10,420
through marriage to
a direct descendant
245
00:17:10,464 --> 00:17:12,335
of the Norman conquest.
246
00:17:12,379 --> 00:17:15,034
This palace has been
in her husband's family
247
00:17:15,077 --> 00:17:16,774
since the 16th Century
248
00:17:16,818 --> 00:17:20,343
and is preserved
like a living museum.
249
00:17:20,387 --> 00:17:21,823
How long were you married?
250
00:17:21,866 --> 00:17:23,738
We married in '57.
251
00:17:23,781 --> 00:17:25,305
And when did he pass away?
252
00:17:25,348 --> 00:17:26,697
Just 10 years ago.
253
00:17:26,741 --> 00:17:28,525
He loved this house very much.
254
00:17:28,569 --> 00:17:30,919
So the only thing
that I could do
255
00:17:30,962 --> 00:17:32,616
was to keep it and maintain it.
256
00:17:32,660 --> 00:17:35,837
Well, it's
absolutely beautiful.
257
00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:38,883
But as thrilled as I am
to meet the princess,
258
00:17:38,927 --> 00:17:41,103
that's not the only reason
I wanted to come here.
259
00:17:41,147 --> 00:17:44,193
I'm on the hunt for
the perfect timballo.
260
00:17:44,237 --> 00:17:46,891
Look at that, so pretty.
261
00:17:46,935 --> 00:17:51,592
A baked mold of pasta or
rice with rich ingredients.
262
00:17:51,635 --> 00:17:54,595
It's a dish I'm obsessed with.
263
00:17:54,638 --> 00:17:56,292
Oh wow.
264
00:17:56,336 --> 00:17:58,338
Every family has a
different way of making it.
265
00:17:58,381 --> 00:18:00,253
Yes.
266
00:18:00,296 --> 00:18:02,820
And I've heard that
Maria, the princess' chef,
267
00:18:02,864 --> 00:18:06,694
is a much sought-after
authority on timballo making.
268
00:18:10,089 --> 00:18:13,179
In my family, we have our
own version of this dish
269
00:18:15,659 --> 00:18:18,140
and it's the centerpiece
of a film I made
270
00:18:18,184 --> 00:18:21,230
calledBig Night,
back in the 1990s.
271
00:18:21,274 --> 00:18:24,625
So it's macaroni
272
00:18:24,668 --> 00:18:25,756
Macaroni
273
00:18:38,378 --> 00:18:40,206
We had great fights
274
00:18:40,249 --> 00:18:42,512
because the old recipe was sugar
275
00:18:42,556 --> 00:18:44,514
but she doesn't like sugar.
276
00:18:44,558 --> 00:18:46,386
She's always saying
"Too much sugar."
277
00:18:50,955 --> 00:18:53,480
Maria is making three
very different versions
278
00:18:53,523 --> 00:18:56,135
of her timballo for dinner.
279
00:18:56,178 --> 00:18:57,788
One with eggplant
280
00:18:59,225 --> 00:19:02,837
one with rice
281
00:19:02,880 --> 00:19:05,840
and this one with
a pastry crust.
282
00:19:09,496 --> 00:19:11,106
The princess's son, Bernardo,
283
00:19:11,150 --> 00:19:12,934
and her granddaughter,
Alessandra,
284
00:19:12,977 --> 00:19:16,067
are joining us for this
rather formal dinner,
285
00:19:16,111 --> 00:19:18,679
complete with a
white-gloved butler.
286
00:19:18,722 --> 00:19:21,203
Thank you.
287
00:19:21,247 --> 00:19:23,945
So this is the
first one, which is
288
00:19:23,988 --> 00:19:25,227
Eggplants with cheese
289
00:19:25,251 --> 00:19:27,209
- And the pasta.
- Aneletti.
290
00:19:29,168 --> 00:19:31,953
Tell me about the
tradition of timballo.
291
00:19:31,996 --> 00:19:33,496
They came from France.
292
00:19:33,520 --> 00:19:36,131
All the families
of the aristocracy
293
00:19:36,175 --> 00:19:38,568
thought it was smart
to have a French cook.
294
00:19:38,612 --> 00:19:41,571
They brought with them,
for example, bechamel,
295
00:19:41,615 --> 00:19:43,921
that wasn't known here in Italy
296
00:19:43,965 --> 00:19:46,402
because we had
more Arab cuisine.
297
00:19:46,446 --> 00:19:48,230
Is this like, what?
How many years
298
00:19:48,274 --> 00:19:53,409
- 1856.
- 1850s.
299
00:19:53,453 --> 00:19:57,283
I find it fascinating that even
this most Sicilian of dishes
300
00:19:57,326 --> 00:19:59,067
has origins elsewhere.
301
00:20:05,943 --> 00:20:07,902
Yeah, it's a huge
amount of work.
302
00:20:07,945 --> 00:20:10,600
You need to make it
with somebody. Yeah.
303
00:20:12,515 --> 00:20:17,781
This one is with rice, with
bechamel, cheese and ham.
304
00:20:17,825 --> 00:20:19,261
That's very French.
305
00:20:21,132 --> 00:20:22,699
Which is the best one for you?
306
00:20:22,743 --> 00:20:25,441
The eggplant. I could
eat the entire thing.
307
00:20:25,485 --> 00:20:28,966
- It's very funny this.
- Which one is yours?
308
00:20:29,010 --> 00:20:30,446
I prefer the rice one.
309
00:20:33,057 --> 00:20:35,277
It's certainly fitting
to be eating this dish
310
00:20:35,321 --> 00:20:39,150
in such an opulent
and unique setting.
311
00:20:39,194 --> 00:20:40,867
I feel like I've stepped
into a time machine
312
00:20:40,891 --> 00:20:43,067
to experience the
origins of timballo.
313
00:20:45,853 --> 00:20:48,856
So tell me how
Palermo has changed.
314
00:20:48,899 --> 00:20:51,467
Now it has become an
international town.
315
00:20:51,511 --> 00:20:52,990
Everybody's coming.
316
00:20:53,034 --> 00:20:55,297
I did notice when I
went out last night
317
00:20:55,341 --> 00:20:57,081
all these young people out
318
00:20:57,125 --> 00:20:58,822
and it was much more youthful
319
00:20:58,866 --> 00:20:59,973
than I thought it
was going to be.
320
00:20:59,997 --> 00:21:01,738
I have a lot of friends
321
00:21:01,782 --> 00:21:05,351
that come from France or Germany
322
00:21:05,394 --> 00:21:08,963
and I've seen people
falling in love with Palermo
323
00:21:09,006 --> 00:21:11,270
in a moving way.
324
00:21:11,313 --> 00:21:14,708
There's something in
the light of Palermo.
325
00:21:17,101 --> 00:21:20,148
One of the reasons for
Palermo's regeneration
326
00:21:20,191 --> 00:21:23,325
is the decline of the
infamous Cosa Nostra.
327
00:21:23,369 --> 00:21:24,369
The Mafia.
328
00:21:41,648 --> 00:21:44,346
And the connection between
the Mafia and the government
329
00:21:44,390 --> 00:21:47,610
is not as great as it once was?
330
00:21:56,227 --> 00:21:57,533
- Yeah.
- Of the judges.
331
00:22:00,101 --> 00:22:02,625
Falcone and
Borsellino were judges
332
00:22:02,669 --> 00:22:04,758
who brought large-scale
legal action
333
00:22:04,801 --> 00:22:06,803
against the mafioso,
334
00:22:06,847 --> 00:22:11,547
exposing the government's
support for the Mafia.
335
00:22:11,591 --> 00:22:15,943
They paid the ultimate
price for their bravery.
336
00:22:15,986 --> 00:22:19,076
Both men were assassinated
within months of each other
337
00:22:19,120 --> 00:22:21,731
in Palermo in 1992.
338
00:22:26,345 --> 00:22:27,607
To change.
339
00:22:32,699 --> 00:22:33,874
That was a turning point.
340
00:22:33,917 --> 00:22:35,049
- Yeah.
- Right.
341
00:22:38,444 --> 00:22:42,099
It's been a very
memorable evening.
342
00:22:42,143 --> 00:22:44,624
But Palermo's ancient
aristocratic families
343
00:22:44,667 --> 00:22:46,452
are a dying breed,
344
00:22:46,495 --> 00:22:49,803
however much we might
want to preserve the past.
345
00:23:00,074 --> 00:23:03,425
The heart of this beautiful
city has moved elsewhere.
346
00:23:03,469 --> 00:23:06,254
To the young. To the new.
347
00:23:06,297 --> 00:23:08,212
And to the future.
348
00:23:19,920 --> 00:23:21,878
Thank you very much, thank you.
349
00:23:21,922 --> 00:23:25,055
If you thought Sicily was
Italy's southernmost island,
350
00:23:25,099 --> 00:23:27,362
you'd be wrong.
351
00:23:27,406 --> 00:23:30,452
Because 173 miles
even further south
352
00:23:30,496 --> 00:23:33,368
is the beautiful
island of Lampedusa.
353
00:23:35,370 --> 00:23:37,590
With just 5,000 inhabitants,
354
00:23:37,633 --> 00:23:39,243
this paradise island was famed
355
00:23:39,287 --> 00:23:42,899
for its waters
chock full of fish.
356
00:23:42,943 --> 00:23:46,555
Situated 70 miles off
the African coast,
357
00:23:46,599 --> 00:23:50,254
it's become a beacon for
migrants and asylum seekers
358
00:23:50,298 --> 00:23:52,518
trying to get to Europe.
359
00:23:52,561 --> 00:23:55,782
Thousands arrive on
these shores every year.
360
00:24:06,923 --> 00:24:09,273
I've come to the port to meet
third generation fisherman
361
00:24:09,317 --> 00:24:12,276
Beppe Billeci, who's
bringing in the daily catch.
362
00:24:28,118 --> 00:24:30,817
Beppe's been fishing
here since he was nine,
363
00:24:30,860 --> 00:24:33,515
catching anchovies and alacce,
364
00:24:33,559 --> 00:24:35,343
a type of sardine that was once
365
00:24:35,386 --> 00:24:37,780
the main form of
sustenance in Lampedusa.
366
00:24:39,565 --> 00:24:41,958
He's invited me for lunch.
367
00:24:42,002 --> 00:24:45,614
His wife Rina is rumored to be
one of the island's best cooks.
368
00:25:09,290 --> 00:25:11,771
Rina's preparing some
traditional Sicilian dishes
369
00:25:11,814 --> 00:25:13,642
with her daughter Enza,
370
00:25:13,686 --> 00:25:15,566
using some of the fish
that Beppe's just caught.
371
00:25:21,737 --> 00:25:23,913
It's so simple.
372
00:25:23,957 --> 00:25:26,220
All she does is dress the
dish with a simple salsa verde
373
00:25:26,263 --> 00:25:28,962
which is made of parsley,
capers, olive oil
374
00:25:29,005 --> 00:25:31,138
and bread soaked in vinegar.
375
00:25:31,181 --> 00:25:33,488
Her second dish
is more elaborate.
376
00:25:42,410 --> 00:25:45,152
Rina is making sarde a beccafico
377
00:25:45,195 --> 00:25:48,808
which literally means,
fig-pecker sardines.
378
00:25:48,851 --> 00:25:52,376
But the fig-pecker is
a bird, not a fish.
379
00:26:31,372 --> 00:26:34,810
For me, this dish embodies
the whole philosophy
380
00:26:34,854 --> 00:26:36,812
of Sicilian cooking,
381
00:26:36,856 --> 00:26:39,423
if you can't afford the
food of the aristocracy,
382
00:26:39,467 --> 00:26:41,382
make do with what you've got.
383
00:26:44,559 --> 00:26:45,865
Thank you for having us.
384
00:26:55,265 --> 00:26:57,354
It's so good.
385
00:26:57,398 --> 00:27:00,706
With the salsa verde,
it's so simple.
386
00:27:00,749 --> 00:27:01,881
It's absolutely delicious.
387
00:27:05,536 --> 00:27:09,062
She just
said "The fish is good."
388
00:27:09,105 --> 00:27:10,977
It's delicious.
389
00:27:11,020 --> 00:27:13,109
But the sea that has
provided us with this feast
390
00:27:13,153 --> 00:27:16,199
is also the arena of
an ongoing tragedy.
391
00:27:16,243 --> 00:27:18,898
Over the last six years
it has claimed the lives
392
00:27:18,941 --> 00:27:24,251
of an estimated 18,000 migrants
fleeing poverty and war.
393
00:27:24,294 --> 00:27:26,906
As a fisherman, Beppe
has first-hand experience
394
00:27:26,949 --> 00:27:28,690
of this crisis.
395
00:27:28,734 --> 00:27:30,755
I just want to ask you about
the immigrant situation,
396
00:27:30,779 --> 00:27:32,259
the migrant situation.
397
00:28:17,217 --> 00:28:20,873
In a country where migration
is the leading political issue,
398
00:28:20,916 --> 00:28:25,094
Lampedusans stand out
for their compassion.
399
00:28:25,138 --> 00:28:28,315
The whole island was nominated
for the Nobel Peace Prize
400
00:28:28,358 --> 00:28:31,405
in 2014.
401
00:28:31,448 --> 00:28:34,234
Beppe has bravely saved
migrants in the past,
402
00:28:34,277 --> 00:28:36,192
pulling them from the sea,
403
00:28:36,236 --> 00:28:38,673
but after a
government clampdown,
404
00:28:38,717 --> 00:28:42,808
captains who saved them faced
fines and even imprisonment.
405
00:29:21,107 --> 00:29:24,850
The situation for refugees
remains extremely precarious.
406
00:29:28,897 --> 00:29:30,681
I've come to what's
known on the island
407
00:29:30,725 --> 00:29:33,728
as the boat graveyard.
408
00:29:33,772 --> 00:29:36,687
A place where refugee
boats are discarded.
409
00:29:39,952 --> 00:29:41,388
The desperation
410
00:29:42,693 --> 00:29:44,608
has to be so profound
411
00:29:48,395 --> 00:29:51,137
to come across the ocean
in a boat like that.
412
00:30:04,367 --> 00:30:07,414
You still see everybody's
clothing left, shoes left.
413
00:30:13,028 --> 00:30:16,771
The integration of
immigrants into a society
414
00:30:16,815 --> 00:30:18,381
makes that society
so much better
415
00:30:18,425 --> 00:30:21,341
and stronger and richer
and more interesting.
416
00:30:23,473 --> 00:30:25,780
To turn people away
is not natural.
417
00:30:43,406 --> 00:30:47,323
I'm back in mainland Sicily
and I'm heading east.
418
00:30:47,367 --> 00:30:49,064
I'm going to Catania,
419
00:30:49,108 --> 00:30:51,893
an ancient and
beautiful port city.
420
00:30:51,937 --> 00:30:53,982
It's a bustling
vibrant metropolis
421
00:30:54,026 --> 00:30:56,289
and the island's
second largest city.
422
00:30:56,332 --> 00:30:58,508
But it does have one problem.
423
00:30:58,552 --> 00:31:01,424
It sits right in the
shadow of Mount Etna,
424
00:31:01,468 --> 00:31:05,341
one of the most active
volcanoes in the world.
425
00:31:05,385 --> 00:31:06,995
Don't you wonder who said
426
00:31:07,039 --> 00:31:08,799
"I have an idea, let's
just build a house up here
427
00:31:08,823 --> 00:31:10,912
at the base of the volcano."
428
00:31:10,956 --> 00:31:13,219
"Don't you want to be
closer to the sea?"
429
00:31:13,262 --> 00:31:17,049
"No, no, no, no. I want to be
right at the fiery maw of it."
430
00:31:24,621 --> 00:31:27,189
But there's a very good
reason why Catanians risk
431
00:31:27,233 --> 00:31:29,931
living so close to
this volatile volcano.
432
00:31:29,975 --> 00:31:33,804
Because centuries of eruptions
have created mineral-rich soil
433
00:31:33,848 --> 00:31:35,806
which grows some of the finest
434
00:31:35,850 --> 00:31:38,157
fruits and vegetables
in the world.
435
00:31:38,200 --> 00:31:39,810
I'm here to visit a restaurant
436
00:31:39,854 --> 00:31:41,856
that uses this
beautiful local produce
437
00:31:41,900 --> 00:31:44,076
to make classic Sicilian dishes.
438
00:31:47,122 --> 00:31:49,995
It's owner is Roberta Capizzi.
439
00:31:54,651 --> 00:31:56,871
- We can come this way.
- OK.
440
00:31:59,526 --> 00:32:02,529
Roberta's chef is
making pasta alla norma,
441
00:32:02,572 --> 00:32:05,010
a Sicilian favorite
made with eggplant.
442
00:32:05,053 --> 00:32:07,360
It was named after
the opera, Norma,
443
00:32:07,403 --> 00:32:10,232
composed by one of
Catania's most famous sons,
444
00:32:10,276 --> 00:32:12,017
Vincenzo Bellini.
445
00:32:12,060 --> 00:32:16,543
So pasta alla Norma is a
very famous Sicilian dish.
446
00:32:16,586 --> 00:32:20,416
And the recipe we're gonna
make today is from your family?
447
00:32:30,992 --> 00:32:32,733
Eggplants are a gift
448
00:32:32,776 --> 00:32:35,692
left by the Arab domination
in the 9th Century
449
00:32:35,736 --> 00:32:38,739
and in Sicilian cooking
they often replace meat
450
00:32:38,782 --> 00:32:41,002
because they're cheaper
and they grow everywhere.
451
00:32:41,046 --> 00:32:42,743
And then tomato?
452
00:32:48,009 --> 00:32:50,577
What kind of
pasta are you using?
453
00:32:53,058 --> 00:32:56,800
Of course, homemade, fresh
cut macaroni. What else?
454
00:32:58,411 --> 00:33:00,021
And it wouldn't be a Norma
455
00:33:00,065 --> 00:33:03,155
without salty baked
ricotta on top.
456
00:33:08,769 --> 00:33:10,466
- What do you think?
- I love it.
457
00:33:10,510 --> 00:33:13,034
I love it, it's so simple
and it's really delicate.
458
00:33:13,078 --> 00:33:14,862
- Thank you.
- Oh my god, it's so good.
459
00:33:18,257 --> 00:33:20,911
For the next dish, Roberta's
promised me something special.
460
00:33:27,570 --> 00:33:31,096
I never imagined myself, or
anyone else, eating donkey.
461
00:33:31,139 --> 00:33:32,967
- It's a donkey.
- Yes.
462
00:33:33,011 --> 00:33:34,316
- It was a donkey.
- Yes.
463
00:33:42,150 --> 00:33:43,934
Donkeys are a
favorite around here
464
00:33:43,978 --> 00:33:45,327
This is delicious.
465
00:33:45,371 --> 00:33:47,286
Because they've always been
466
00:33:47,329 --> 00:33:49,505
hardworking companions
for Sicilian farmers.
467
00:33:49,549 --> 00:33:50,767
The meat is sweet.
468
00:33:50,811 --> 00:33:52,421
Yes.
469
00:33:52,465 --> 00:33:54,206
Believe it or not,
it's really good.
470
00:33:54,249 --> 00:33:58,079
It's like beef carpaccio
but even sweeter.
471
00:33:58,123 --> 00:34:01,039
Tell me about the big change
you made in your life.
472
00:34:22,060 --> 00:34:23,104
- Wow.
- Yeah.
473
00:34:26,064 --> 00:34:27,389
And the name
of the restaurant,
474
00:34:27,413 --> 00:34:28,773
tell me the name
of the restaurant.
475
00:34:30,068 --> 00:34:31,156
Which means?
476
00:34:59,445 --> 00:35:01,751
- Everything from Sicily.
- Everything.
477
00:35:03,753 --> 00:35:05,625
True to its name,
the restaurant,
478
00:35:05,668 --> 00:35:07,496
like the house of a good friend,
479
00:35:07,540 --> 00:35:09,585
stays open all day.
480
00:35:09,629 --> 00:35:12,197
Which isn't usual in
this part of the world.
481
00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:16,505
Most places close
between lunch and dinner.
482
00:35:16,549 --> 00:35:20,770
Are Sicilians different
than other Italians?
483
00:35:57,938 --> 00:36:00,897
Grazie, thank you.
484
00:36:00,941 --> 00:36:03,073
Like a true Sicilian,
485
00:36:03,117 --> 00:36:06,207
Roberta's passion for life,
for family and for this island
486
00:36:06,251 --> 00:36:09,819
has found a perfect
expression in her food.
487
00:36:09,863 --> 00:36:11,647
It's just extraordinary.
488
00:36:11,691 --> 00:36:15,260
It's some of the best food
probably that I've ever had.
489
00:36:15,303 --> 00:36:17,653
The food is great, but
the magic ingredient
490
00:36:17,697 --> 00:36:20,221
that makes this
restaurant so special
491
00:36:20,265 --> 00:36:23,442
is the wonderful
Sicilian hospitality,
492
00:36:23,485 --> 00:36:25,357
which also helps
take your mind off
493
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:28,186
that active volcano
looming nearby.
494
00:36:38,544 --> 00:36:41,938
I'm staying in Catania
to explore some more.
495
00:36:41,982 --> 00:36:45,420
A busy industrial hub, once
known as the Milan of the south
496
00:36:45,464 --> 00:36:48,554
it has a growing
migrant community.
497
00:36:48,597 --> 00:36:52,253
Catania is the main reception
center for newcomers in Sicily
498
00:36:52,297 --> 00:36:54,037
and this new wave of migration
499
00:36:54,081 --> 00:36:56,953
is already changing
the city and its food.
500
00:37:06,746 --> 00:37:10,010
Emmanuella and Mimmo
Pistone run a supper club
501
00:37:10,053 --> 00:37:11,794
where young refugees
and migrants
502
00:37:11,838 --> 00:37:13,666
cook the food from
their homelands
503
00:37:13,709 --> 00:37:15,537
and share their stories.
504
00:37:17,322 --> 00:37:20,020
- Mustafa, ciao.
- Nice to meet you.
505
00:37:20,063 --> 00:37:21,630
- Nice to meet you too.
- Hi. Joy.
506
00:37:21,674 --> 00:37:23,589
Hi Joy, how are you?
507
00:37:23,632 --> 00:37:26,983
Joy, from Nigeria, is
now a close family friend
508
00:37:27,027 --> 00:37:30,073
and Mustafa, a young
migrant from Egypt,
509
00:37:30,117 --> 00:37:32,598
has become their foster son.
510
00:37:32,641 --> 00:37:36,689
And I've heard they're
both amazing cooks.
511
00:37:36,732 --> 00:37:41,171
This one, we have carrots,
green beans, and the shrimps.
512
00:37:41,215 --> 00:37:43,739
And little
shrimps? The little
513
00:37:43,783 --> 00:37:45,480
They are fried already.
514
00:37:45,524 --> 00:37:47,874
- Oh delicious.
- Yeah.
515
00:37:47,917 --> 00:37:50,920
Oh I can't wait.
It's very exciting.
516
00:37:50,964 --> 00:37:53,880
Tonight they're making a
fusion of African dishes.
517
00:37:53,923 --> 00:37:57,318
This one is called
Nigerian fried rice.
518
00:37:57,362 --> 00:37:59,842
Joy's special rice is
being served alongside
519
00:37:59,886 --> 00:38:03,411
spicy chicken flavored with
curry, ginger and rosemary.
520
00:38:03,455 --> 00:38:04,760
Oh my gosh.
521
00:38:04,804 --> 00:38:06,196
Yeah, yeah. For you.
522
00:38:06,240 --> 00:38:08,503
- Plantains
-And plantain.
523
00:38:08,547 --> 00:38:10,375
It's my favorite.
524
00:38:10,418 --> 00:38:12,420
A type of banana
fried in coconut oil.
525
00:38:20,341 --> 00:38:22,952
I can see that Nigerian
and Italian hospitality
526
00:38:22,996 --> 00:38:24,606
have a lot in common.
527
00:38:28,218 --> 00:38:32,353
Oh that's wonderful.
That's delicious.
528
00:38:32,397 --> 00:38:34,964
Emmanuel and Mimmo took
Mustafa under their wing
529
00:38:35,008 --> 00:38:38,838
shortly after he arrived
in Sicily six years ago.
530
00:38:44,713 --> 00:38:47,673
He was only sixteen
when he left his family
531
00:38:47,716 --> 00:38:50,371
to make the dangerous journey
across the Mediterranean.
532
00:38:50,415 --> 00:38:52,939
- How did they arrive?
- With a small boat
533
00:38:52,982 --> 00:38:55,724
on the main beach of Catania,
534
00:38:55,768 --> 00:38:57,552
which is called Playa.
535
00:38:57,596 --> 00:39:01,774
It was the 10th
of August in 2013.
536
00:39:03,558 --> 00:39:04,718
How big was the boat?
537
00:39:11,436 --> 00:39:13,742
- The boat stopped.
- It hit a sand bar.
538
00:39:13,786 --> 00:39:15,048
- Yes.
- Yeah.
539
00:39:21,054 --> 00:39:22,534
They started walking.
540
00:39:31,456 --> 00:39:34,546
Just in front of the shore.
541
00:39:34,589 --> 00:39:37,462
It was terrible. Yeah.
542
00:39:37,505 --> 00:39:39,464
They couldn't swim.
543
00:39:59,179 --> 00:40:01,070
This is the thing.
So many people imagine
544
00:40:01,094 --> 00:40:02,791
that people leave
their countries
545
00:40:02,835 --> 00:40:04,967
to come and take advantage
546
00:40:05,011 --> 00:40:06,969
when, in fact,
they're just coming
547
00:40:07,013 --> 00:40:09,624
because they live
in fear - Yeah.
548
00:40:09,668 --> 00:40:11,757
They're incredibly poor.
549
00:40:11,800 --> 00:40:13,628
They need
somewhere safe as well.
550
00:40:13,672 --> 00:40:18,154
Yes, they need somewhere safe
and they want to work hard.
551
00:40:18,198 --> 00:40:19,598
- Yeah. Yeah.
- To have a good life.
552
00:40:31,124 --> 00:40:34,257
So when people say that we
are good because we help them
553
00:40:34,301 --> 00:40:36,738
but I always say it's not true
554
00:40:36,782 --> 00:40:38,827
because they are helping us
555
00:40:38,871 --> 00:40:43,571
in finding a reason to give
a sense to this moment,
556
00:40:43,615 --> 00:40:47,140
you know, that the
world is living.
557
00:40:47,183 --> 00:40:51,405
So we have to thank them.
558
00:40:51,449 --> 00:40:54,364
The story of immigration seems
to have changed very little
559
00:40:54,408 --> 00:40:56,062
over the years.
560
00:40:56,105 --> 00:40:57,890
And one of its most
beautiful consequences
561
00:40:57,933 --> 00:41:00,719
is the imprint it
leaves on the cuisine.
562
00:41:00,762 --> 00:41:03,852
The spices that are
part of all this,
563
00:41:03,896 --> 00:41:07,552
from Egypt have been
in Italy for centuries.
564
00:41:07,595 --> 00:41:09,815
It's what created Italian food.
565
00:41:09,858 --> 00:41:13,427
It's why Italian food in
Sicily is completely different
566
00:41:13,471 --> 00:41:18,214
than the Italian food
in Piemonte or in Rome.
567
00:41:18,258 --> 00:41:20,521
Well I really want
to thank you so much.
568
00:41:20,565 --> 00:41:25,265
You're pretty great parents,
that's all I can say.
569
00:41:25,308 --> 00:41:27,441
Even if from time
to time we quarrel.
570
00:41:34,056 --> 00:41:36,189
Throughout history, Sicilians
have shared the bounty
571
00:41:36,232 --> 00:41:38,800
of their generous
land with newcomers,
572
00:41:38,844 --> 00:41:40,541
evolving the culture,
573
00:41:40,585 --> 00:41:44,676
and creating new
culinary traditions.
574
00:41:44,719 --> 00:41:47,461
Cheers, cheers. Cheers,
cheers. Thank you.
575
00:41:49,245 --> 00:41:51,813
Every new arrival brings change
576
00:41:51,857 --> 00:41:55,513
and the opportunity for
regeneration and renewal.
577
00:41:55,556 --> 00:41:57,689
But one thing that
won't change here
578
00:41:57,732 --> 00:41:59,821
is that, at the
home of a Cumpari,
579
00:41:59,865 --> 00:42:02,650
the door is always open
580
00:42:02,694 --> 00:42:05,784
and you are always
welcome to join the feast.
40833
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