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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,233 --> 00:00:04,333 Narrator: a haunting facility Saved from destruction 2 00:00:04,333 --> 00:00:06,767 By a remarkable Hollywood connection. 3 00:00:06,767 --> 00:00:08,733 Puff: the same day that The wrecking balls 4 00:00:08,733 --> 00:00:10,433 Came to tear this place down 5 00:00:10,433 --> 00:00:14,100 Was the same day that The filming company showed up. 6 00:00:14,100 --> 00:00:17,933 Narrator: Vast monolithic structures That dominate a tiny island 7 00:00:17,933 --> 00:00:21,067 And speak of a brutal Time in its past. 8 00:00:21,067 --> 00:00:23,367 What are these Things doing in this 9 00:00:23,367 --> 00:00:25,767 Otherwise pristine landscape? 10 00:00:25,767 --> 00:00:29,133 Narrator: a mysterious island Where compasses flicker 11 00:00:29,133 --> 00:00:30,000 And shrapnel scars its remains. 12 00:00:30,000 --> 00:00:31,000 And shrapnel scars its remains. 13 00:00:32,567 --> 00:00:35,833 All the structures that exist Are riddled with bullet holes 14 00:00:35,833 --> 00:00:37,433 And signs of explosions. 15 00:00:37,433 --> 00:00:39,567 It's like you're walking Through a war zone. 16 00:00:42,600 --> 00:00:44,067 Narrator: Once, they were some of the most 17 00:00:44,067 --> 00:00:47,500 Advanced structures And facilities on the planet. 18 00:00:47,500 --> 00:00:50,833 At the cutting edge Of design and construction. 19 00:00:50,833 --> 00:00:53,133 Today, they stand abandoned, 20 00:00:53,133 --> 00:00:56,433 Contaminated, And sometimes deadly. 21 00:00:57,000 --> 00:00:59,433 But who built them and how? 22 00:00:59,433 --> 00:01:00,000 And why were they abandoned? 23 00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:01,000 And why were they abandoned? 24 00:01:01,767 --> 00:01:04,900 -- captions by vitac -- Www.Vitac.Com 25 00:01:04,900 --> 00:01:07,933 Captions paid for by Discovery communications 26 00:01:07,933 --> 00:01:15,600 * 27 00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:23,200 * 28 00:01:23,200 --> 00:01:25,700 In the center Of the state of ohio, 29 00:01:25,700 --> 00:01:28,300 Just to the north Of the city of mansfield 30 00:01:28,300 --> 00:01:30,000 Stands an ornate Yet foreboding building. 31 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:31,000 Stands an ornate Yet foreboding building. 32 00:01:31,333 --> 00:01:37,200 * 33 00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:38,467 Gough: from the outside, 34 00:01:38,467 --> 00:01:40,433 It looks like some Kind of palace 35 00:01:40,433 --> 00:01:42,367 Or even a castle. 36 00:01:42,367 --> 00:01:44,900 It appears to be The kind of structure 37 00:01:44,900 --> 00:01:46,400 That you would create 38 00:01:46,400 --> 00:01:48,500 That would have A lasting impression 39 00:01:48,500 --> 00:01:50,600 On anyone who set eyes on it. 40 00:01:53,100 --> 00:01:54,500 Meigs: When you see this building, 41 00:01:54,500 --> 00:01:57,567 You know it was built For something important. 42 00:01:57,567 --> 00:02:00,000 And clearly, whoever Built it meant it to last. 43 00:02:00,000 --> 00:02:01,000 And clearly, whoever Built it meant it to last. 44 00:02:02,067 --> 00:02:05,067 Selwood: The building is vast and grand 45 00:02:05,067 --> 00:02:08,533 With very detailed And fancy architecture. 46 00:02:08,533 --> 00:02:12,100 It's definitely A statement piece. 47 00:02:12,100 --> 00:02:14,467 Meigs: it's built with this Massive, massive stone, 48 00:02:14,467 --> 00:02:20,267 So clearly, it's not A very inviting place. 49 00:02:20,267 --> 00:02:22,733 Gough: Kind of gives you the shivers. 50 00:02:22,733 --> 00:02:25,333 It's sort of like A haunted house 51 00:02:25,333 --> 00:02:27,267 And it definitely gives you The impression 52 00:02:27,267 --> 00:02:30,000 That something bad May have happened here. 53 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:31,000 That something bad May have happened here. 54 00:02:32,100 --> 00:02:34,467 Narrator: Behind this impressive exterior 55 00:02:34,467 --> 00:02:37,833 Hides a dark secret. 56 00:02:39,867 --> 00:02:42,400 How can the interior And exterior 57 00:02:42,400 --> 00:02:47,733 Be so catastrophically Different? 58 00:02:47,733 --> 00:02:51,733 Gough: what it originally set Out to do and what it ended up, 59 00:02:51,733 --> 00:02:56,467 Those bookends couldn't Be further apart. 60 00:02:56,467 --> 00:02:58,667 Selwood: this was to be A place of spiritual 61 00:02:58,667 --> 00:03:00,000 Regeneration and rebirth. 62 00:03:00,000 --> 00:03:00,833 Regeneration and rebirth. 63 00:03:00,833 --> 00:03:01,000 It's about salvation. 64 00:03:02,167 --> 00:03:06,067 This is a righteous building. 65 00:03:06,067 --> 00:03:08,900 Gough: and you have to imagine That those who conceived it 66 00:03:08,900 --> 00:03:15,467 Had no idea what a horror story Of a legacy they had spawned. 67 00:03:15,467 --> 00:03:17,433 * 68 00:03:17,433 --> 00:03:18,967 Narrator: Why go to such lengths 69 00:03:18,967 --> 00:03:23,433 To build such a dramatic And righteous structure? 70 00:03:23,433 --> 00:03:27,400 What was it used for And why was it abandoned? 71 00:03:27,400 --> 00:03:30,000 * 72 00:03:30,000 --> 00:03:31,000 * 73 00:03:32,467 --> 00:03:34,700 The origins Of this building's story 74 00:03:34,700 --> 00:03:39,833 Stretch back to the Late 19th century. 75 00:03:39,833 --> 00:03:42,233 It was built in the mid-1880s 76 00:03:42,233 --> 00:03:47,300 As a beacon of Hope for the state. 77 00:03:47,300 --> 00:03:50,533 Selwood: this site at mansfield Was chosen in 1885 78 00:03:50,533 --> 00:03:52,067 For a very special reason, 79 00:03:52,067 --> 00:03:53,500 A very particular project. 80 00:03:53,500 --> 00:03:57,233 It was one that was going to Be liberal and progressive. 81 00:03:57,233 --> 00:03:59,833 They wanted to take Young offenders 82 00:03:59,833 --> 00:04:00,000 And rehabilitate And reeducate them 83 00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:01,000 And rehabilitate And reeducate them 84 00:04:02,233 --> 00:04:06,167 In the most positive Way possible. 85 00:04:06,167 --> 00:04:07,933 Meigs: It was a reformatory. 86 00:04:07,933 --> 00:04:10,700 So the notion was, you Weren't just punishing people. 87 00:04:10,700 --> 00:04:12,100 You were helping them learn, 88 00:04:12,100 --> 00:04:13,933 And then you would release Them out in the world 89 00:04:13,933 --> 00:04:18,100 And they would Commit crimes no more. 90 00:04:18,100 --> 00:04:22,267 Narrator: this is The ohio state reformatory. 91 00:04:25,067 --> 00:04:28,400 With the first brick laid In 1886, 92 00:04:28,400 --> 00:04:30,000 Soon after, A stream of young offenders 93 00:04:30,000 --> 00:04:30,967 Soon after, A stream of young offenders 94 00:04:30,967 --> 00:04:31,000 Were brought here to begin Their rehabilitation. 95 00:04:37,367 --> 00:04:39,700 Meigs: They started housing prisoners 96 00:04:39,700 --> 00:04:41,767 In the complex before It was even finished, 97 00:04:41,767 --> 00:04:43,867 And the prisoners themselves Did a lot of the work 98 00:04:43,867 --> 00:04:45,433 To complete the building, 99 00:04:45,433 --> 00:04:49,067 Including building The sewer system. 100 00:04:53,267 --> 00:04:55,100 Narrator: not until 1910 101 00:04:55,100 --> 00:04:59,233 Was the reformatory Finally complete. 102 00:04:59,233 --> 00:05:00,000 While the facility began life With the best of intentions, 103 00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:01,000 While the facility began life With the best of intentions, 104 00:05:02,867 --> 00:05:05,233 Its stark interior Reflects how this 105 00:05:05,233 --> 00:05:08,067 Reformist zeal was soon replaced 106 00:05:08,067 --> 00:05:11,433 With a more brutal approach To life inside. 107 00:05:14,700 --> 00:05:20,833 Gough: the place had taken a Completely different direction. 108 00:05:20,833 --> 00:05:24,567 This was now a place Not of rehabilitation, 109 00:05:24,567 --> 00:05:27,733 But a place of incarceration 110 00:05:27,733 --> 00:05:29,567 Where you would Lock up the baddies 111 00:05:29,567 --> 00:05:30,000 And throw away the key. 112 00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:31,000 And throw away the key. 113 00:05:33,433 --> 00:05:36,367 Narrator: this wing demonstrates The new direction 114 00:05:36,367 --> 00:05:42,800 The reformatory was taking, As expert ron puff explains. 115 00:05:42,800 --> 00:05:44,400 Puff: we're currently in The west cell block. 116 00:05:44,400 --> 00:05:46,867 The west cell block was a Housing unit for your inmates. 117 00:05:46,867 --> 00:05:50,800 This has five tiers, Originally 350 cells, 118 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:52,900 Meant for one inmate to a cell. 119 00:05:52,900 --> 00:05:54,733 Ended up from the very Beginning with two inmates, 120 00:05:54,733 --> 00:05:56,733 So we housed 700 inmates here. 121 00:05:56,733 --> 00:05:58,633 It wasn't so bad Early on living here. 122 00:05:58,633 --> 00:06:00,000 Now in later years, They could be in their cells 123 00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:00,467 Now in later years, They could be in their cells 124 00:06:00,467 --> 00:06:01,000 20, 22 hours a day. 125 00:06:06,067 --> 00:06:07,867 Can you imagine being there? 126 00:06:07,867 --> 00:06:12,400 Walking through those corridors Into your caged cell, 127 00:06:12,400 --> 00:06:13,967 And hearing The sound of the door 128 00:06:13,967 --> 00:06:18,333 Slammed and locked behind you. 129 00:06:18,333 --> 00:06:21,733 And then the riotous sounds Of other inmates. 130 00:06:21,733 --> 00:06:26,500 It must have been A terrifying existence. 131 00:06:26,500 --> 00:06:28,433 Narrator: Juveniles were increasingly 132 00:06:28,433 --> 00:06:30,000 Incarcerated Separately from adults, 133 00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:30,867 Incarcerated Separately from adults, 134 00:06:30,867 --> 00:06:31,000 And societal changes Dramatically altered 135 00:06:34,233 --> 00:06:39,533 The character And purpose of this facility. 136 00:06:39,533 --> 00:06:43,567 The boys were forced to leave. 137 00:06:43,567 --> 00:06:46,267 Puff: so they keep this As an adult facility, 138 00:06:46,267 --> 00:06:47,967 And all those Juveniles have to go to 139 00:06:47,967 --> 00:06:49,133 Another facility altogether, 140 00:06:49,133 --> 00:06:52,300 And now you've got A prison full of space. 141 00:06:52,300 --> 00:06:55,267 What do you do with it? 142 00:06:55,267 --> 00:06:57,833 Selwood: in wider society, Evermore people were being 143 00:06:57,833 --> 00:07:00,000 Convicted of increasingly Violent crimes, 144 00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:00,533 Convicted of increasingly Violent crimes, 145 00:07:00,533 --> 00:07:01,000 And prisons across the country 146 00:07:02,733 --> 00:07:05,567 Were becoming overfilled With inmates. 147 00:07:05,567 --> 00:07:08,633 So, mansfield became Just another prison. 148 00:07:08,633 --> 00:07:11,467 In fact, it became one Of the hardest prisons, 149 00:07:11,467 --> 00:07:12,633 The worst of the worst, 150 00:07:12,633 --> 00:07:14,333 With some of the most Violent offenders 151 00:07:14,333 --> 00:07:18,333 From around the country Being kept there. 152 00:07:18,333 --> 00:07:19,600 Narrator: over the years, 153 00:07:19,600 --> 00:07:22,367 Conditions became Evermore extreme 154 00:07:22,367 --> 00:07:24,800 As the prison Expanded and became 155 00:07:24,800 --> 00:07:28,700 A maximum-security facility. 156 00:07:28,700 --> 00:07:30,000 As inmate numbers escalated, 157 00:07:30,000 --> 00:07:31,000 As inmate numbers escalated, 158 00:07:31,100 --> 00:07:36,500 The depths of depravity Grew to a whole new level. 159 00:07:36,500 --> 00:07:40,767 Gough: violence was part Of everyday life. 160 00:07:40,767 --> 00:07:43,100 You could be beat up in a fight, 161 00:07:43,100 --> 00:07:45,067 You could be stabbed, You could be mugged. 162 00:07:45,067 --> 00:07:47,433 You could be thrown off A high walkway. 163 00:07:47,433 --> 00:07:49,800 I mean, the place was Such that you were 164 00:07:49,800 --> 00:07:54,100 In fear of your life Each and every day. 165 00:07:54,100 --> 00:07:56,267 Puff: inmates were told, When you came here, 166 00:07:56,267 --> 00:07:58,667 Make yourself a weapon And hide it in the backyard. 167 00:07:58,667 --> 00:08:00,000 So if everything goes crazy, 168 00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:00,500 So if everything goes crazy, 169 00:08:00,500 --> 00:08:01,000 You at least know Where your shank 170 00:08:01,967 --> 00:08:03,300 Or your rock or whatever it is 171 00:08:03,300 --> 00:08:07,567 You placed is so You can be safe. 172 00:08:07,567 --> 00:08:12,300 And they feared coming In the gates here. 173 00:08:12,300 --> 00:08:13,667 Narrator: This violence would lead 174 00:08:13,667 --> 00:08:15,733 To its self-destruction. 175 00:08:15,733 --> 00:08:18,333 But how would hollywood Come to its rescue 176 00:08:18,333 --> 00:08:20,600 And save it from demolition? 177 00:08:22,733 --> 00:08:23,000 * 178 00:08:29,500 --> 00:08:31,700 Narrator: despite starting Out as a facility 179 00:08:31,700 --> 00:08:33,767 To rehabilitate young offenders, 180 00:08:33,767 --> 00:08:37,100 By the 1930s, The ohio state reformatory 181 00:08:37,100 --> 00:08:43,133 Had become a brutal Adult prison. 182 00:08:43,133 --> 00:08:46,200 One of the most frightening Places to find yourself 183 00:08:46,200 --> 00:08:49,367 Was at the end Of these dark corridors. 184 00:08:49,367 --> 00:08:52,368 A place no one wanted to be. 185 00:08:52,368 --> 00:08:53,000 A place no one wanted to be. 186 00:08:54,067 --> 00:08:55,467 Puff: for the worst offenders, 187 00:08:55,467 --> 00:08:57,067 There was solitary confinement Here at the reformatory. 188 00:08:57,067 --> 00:09:00,400 When you came in here, It was punishment. 189 00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:02,267 And so, the whole Time you were in here, 190 00:09:02,267 --> 00:09:03,633 You weren't supposed to talk. 191 00:09:03,633 --> 00:09:05,767 They might keep the lights on 24 hours a day. 192 00:09:05,767 --> 00:09:07,867 They might keep the lights off 24 hours a day. 193 00:09:07,867 --> 00:09:09,067 There was no reading. 194 00:09:09,067 --> 00:09:10,867 Your meal schedule Would be moved around 195 00:09:10,867 --> 00:09:13,067 So you never knew What time it was. 196 00:09:13,067 --> 00:09:15,567 And so, early on, they came In here with no clothes. 197 00:09:15,567 --> 00:09:16,667 They were naked. 198 00:09:16,667 --> 00:09:18,300 They had a bucket that Was their commode. 199 00:09:18,300 --> 00:09:20,900 They slept on the cement floor. 200 00:09:23,500 --> 00:09:25,400 Narrator: A combination of violence, 201 00:09:25,400 --> 00:09:28,200 Riots, and a spiraling Population 202 00:09:28,200 --> 00:09:31,333 Ensured that the hole, As it was known, 203 00:09:31,333 --> 00:09:36,067 Was crammed full of prisoners. 204 00:09:36,067 --> 00:09:38,067 Meigs: In one case, they had a riot, 205 00:09:38,067 --> 00:09:40,767 And they wound up Putting 120 prisoners 206 00:09:40,767 --> 00:09:44,800 Down in the hole at The same time for 30 days. 207 00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:46,567 Gough: in this instance, They actually found a body 208 00:09:46,567 --> 00:09:49,167 That had been Murdered and stuffed 209 00:09:49,167 --> 00:09:50,967 Into a mattress for several days 210 00:09:50,967 --> 00:09:52,368 Before anyone realized He was dead. 211 00:09:52,368 --> 00:09:53,000 Before anyone realized He was dead. 212 00:09:54,067 --> 00:09:57,267 Narrator: Yet, endemic violence continued, 213 00:09:57,267 --> 00:10:02,333 Until in an unlikely twist, The tables were turned. 214 00:10:04,500 --> 00:10:07,133 Selwood: Inmates finally took matters Into their own hands, 215 00:10:07,133 --> 00:10:10,467 And they filed a lawsuit That the facility was violating 216 00:10:10,467 --> 00:10:13,733 Their constitutional rights By dehumanizing them. 217 00:10:13,733 --> 00:10:16,167 In the end, The problems at the site 218 00:10:16,167 --> 00:10:18,467 Were so widespread That it was all too much, 219 00:10:18,467 --> 00:10:22,368 And the facility was abandoned. 220 00:10:22,368 --> 00:10:23,000 And the facility was abandoned. 221 00:10:23,567 --> 00:10:26,400 Narrator: In its 96-year history, 222 00:10:26,400 --> 00:10:32,533 Over 150,000 inmates Had walked through its doors. 223 00:10:32,533 --> 00:10:38,400 Over 200 of them died On the inside. 224 00:10:38,400 --> 00:10:40,133 Selwood: these days, There are many accounts 225 00:10:40,133 --> 00:10:41,567 Of it being haunted, 226 00:10:41,567 --> 00:10:44,367 Of there being paranormal Activity at the site, 227 00:10:44,367 --> 00:10:45,633 But that's hardly surprising 228 00:10:45,633 --> 00:10:48,000 When you think Of the degree of violence 229 00:10:48,000 --> 00:10:52,067 That the building Had seen for so many decades. 230 00:10:52,067 --> 00:10:52,368 Puff: is the ohio state Reformatory haunted? 231 00:10:52,368 --> 00:10:53,000 Puff: is the ohio state Reformatory haunted? 232 00:10:54,833 --> 00:10:57,333 And if you ask a number Of our staff members, 233 00:10:57,333 --> 00:10:58,700 They will say yes. 234 00:10:58,700 --> 00:11:00,300 They'll snap their fingers Just like that. 235 00:11:00,300 --> 00:11:02,633 Me? Things happen here. 236 00:11:02,633 --> 00:11:05,633 Why? I'll let you figure it out. 237 00:11:05,633 --> 00:11:11,067 * 238 00:11:11,067 --> 00:11:13,500 Narrator: Today, this grand facility 239 00:11:13,500 --> 00:11:16,467 Has become A major tourist attraction, 240 00:11:16,467 --> 00:11:17,800 In no small part, 241 00:11:17,800 --> 00:11:22,300 Thanks to an extraordinary Twist of fate. 242 00:11:22,300 --> 00:11:22,368 Meigs: It was scheduled for demolition. 243 00:11:22,368 --> 00:11:23,000 Meigs: It was scheduled for demolition. 244 00:11:24,733 --> 00:11:26,100 But just before that, 245 00:11:26,100 --> 00:11:28,333 A film crew came To shoot a movie that, 246 00:11:28,333 --> 00:11:30,500 Of course, has Become world famous, 247 00:11:30,500 --> 00:11:33,300 "The shawshank redemption." 248 00:11:33,300 --> 00:11:35,500 Puff: the same day that The wrecking balls 249 00:11:35,500 --> 00:11:37,367 Came to tear this place down 250 00:11:37,367 --> 00:11:42,467 Was the same day that The filming company showed up. 251 00:11:42,467 --> 00:11:46,667 "The shawshank redemption" was The redemption of this prison. 252 00:11:46,667 --> 00:11:52,368 * 253 00:11:52,368 --> 00:11:53,000 * 254 00:11:53,633 --> 00:11:56,733 Narrator: just off the coast Of normandy in france 255 00:11:56,733 --> 00:12:00,200 Is the small british island Of guernsey. 256 00:12:00,200 --> 00:12:01,900 Looming over its coastline 257 00:12:01,900 --> 00:12:05,333 Are bizarre looking Constructions. 258 00:12:08,767 --> 00:12:12,433 Bell: in the otherwise quiet And picturesque surroundings, 259 00:12:12,433 --> 00:12:14,500 You start to discover actually 260 00:12:14,500 --> 00:12:19,400 A huge amount of these Concrete, imposing structures. 261 00:12:20,833 --> 00:12:22,368 Nusbacher: The way that these concrete Monoliths are stacked, 262 00:12:22,368 --> 00:12:23,000 Nusbacher: The way that these concrete Monoliths are stacked, 263 00:12:25,700 --> 00:12:31,633 They look a bit like the Heads off of easter island. 264 00:12:31,633 --> 00:12:36,133 Jerram: it's like "Star wars" Has been filmed there. 265 00:12:36,133 --> 00:12:38,967 These really strange Almost monolith type 266 00:12:38,967 --> 00:12:43,333 Constructions poking Out of the ground. 267 00:12:43,333 --> 00:12:44,767 Narrator: further inland, 268 00:12:44,767 --> 00:12:49,667 A cavernous concrete bowl Lies sunken into the ground. 269 00:12:49,667 --> 00:12:52,368 It's huge. It's like an amphitheater. 270 00:12:52,368 --> 00:12:53,000 It's huge. It's like an amphitheater. 271 00:12:53,800 --> 00:12:57,833 I don't think The locals would have ever 272 00:12:57,833 --> 00:13:01,600 Envisaged structures like this Being built on the island. 273 00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:04,967 * 274 00:13:04,967 --> 00:13:07,567 Narrator: beneath this Monumental mass of concrete 275 00:13:07,567 --> 00:13:13,233 Lurk other hidden features. 276 00:13:13,233 --> 00:13:15,500 Jerram: There's a railway track that 277 00:13:15,500 --> 00:13:18,400 Starts to lead You into a tunnel. 278 00:13:18,400 --> 00:13:20,800 And when you follow That tunnel inside, 279 00:13:20,800 --> 00:13:22,368 You start going underground. 280 00:13:22,368 --> 00:13:23,000 You start going underground. 281 00:13:25,867 --> 00:13:27,467 When you get closer, You see that there's 282 00:13:27,467 --> 00:13:28,667 Actually a lot more to them. 283 00:13:28,667 --> 00:13:30,833 There's networks And you start to 284 00:13:30,833 --> 00:13:34,067 Kind of see old paraphernalia. 285 00:13:34,067 --> 00:13:36,133 Narrator: in amongst the maze Of dark rooms 286 00:13:36,133 --> 00:13:38,133 And mysterious symbols, 287 00:13:38,133 --> 00:13:41,700 Writing emerges Out of the darkness. 288 00:13:41,700 --> 00:13:43,967 But these are not english. 289 00:13:43,967 --> 00:13:47,167 Surprisingly, They are written in german, 290 00:13:47,167 --> 00:13:50,167 And they hint At the wretched fate 291 00:13:50,167 --> 00:13:52,368 That befell Their former occupants. 292 00:13:52,368 --> 00:13:53,000 That befell Their former occupants. 293 00:13:53,667 --> 00:13:57,200 Things started To get really tough. 294 00:13:57,200 --> 00:14:00,933 In fact, many of them Began to starve. 295 00:14:00,933 --> 00:14:04,800 * 296 00:14:04,800 --> 00:14:08,800 Narrator: who decided to invest In these gigantic structures, 297 00:14:08,800 --> 00:14:12,300 And why were they Finally abandoned? 298 00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:15,000 * 299 00:14:20,067 --> 00:14:23,400 Narrator: on the small British island of guernsey, 300 00:14:23,400 --> 00:14:27,267 Colossal concrete structures Dominate the land. 301 00:14:27,267 --> 00:14:32,133 How are they all connected, And why were they abandoned? 302 00:14:32,133 --> 00:14:36,567 * 303 00:14:36,567 --> 00:14:39,500 The roots of this Mystery can be found 304 00:14:39,500 --> 00:14:44,386 In the early years Of world war ii. 305 00:14:44,386 --> 00:14:44,733 In the early years Of world war ii. 306 00:14:44,733 --> 00:14:45,000 By june 1940, Hitler had crushed france 307 00:14:48,500 --> 00:14:49,833 And was turning his attention 308 00:14:49,833 --> 00:14:56,133 To his next target, Great britain. 309 00:14:56,133 --> 00:15:00,833 Lying just 20 miles away Across the english channel, 310 00:15:00,833 --> 00:15:03,833 Great britain Was tantalizingly close, 311 00:15:03,833 --> 00:15:08,167 But a small piece of british Territory lay even closer. 312 00:15:08,167 --> 00:15:11,133 The channel islands. 313 00:15:11,133 --> 00:15:13,267 Bell: Although the channel islands Are british territory, 314 00:15:13,267 --> 00:15:14,386 They're actually must closer To the coast of france. 315 00:15:14,386 --> 00:15:15,000 They're actually must closer To the coast of france. 316 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:20,967 And hitler viewed them As strategically important. 317 00:15:20,967 --> 00:15:25,800 Nusbacher: If you want to go from Britain and invade france, 318 00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:30,200 The channel islands Are a great first step. 319 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:32,100 They get you most Of the way there, 320 00:15:32,100 --> 00:15:36,467 And the nazis could not allow The british 321 00:15:36,467 --> 00:15:39,933 To continue to control Those islands 322 00:15:39,933 --> 00:15:42,600 Right on the edge of france. 323 00:15:42,600 --> 00:15:44,386 Narrator: On the 28th of june, 1940, 324 00:15:44,386 --> 00:15:45,000 Narrator: On the 28th of june, 1940, 325 00:15:46,833 --> 00:15:52,433 The luftwaffe bombers came Swooping in over the islands. 326 00:15:52,433 --> 00:15:54,067 Jerram: A tragedy within the war 327 00:15:54,067 --> 00:15:55,633 Was the fact that The germans essentially 328 00:15:55,633 --> 00:15:57,133 Bombed the channel islands, 329 00:15:57,133 --> 00:15:59,400 Expecting there to be Quite a lot of resistance. 330 00:15:59,400 --> 00:16:04,433 They killed about 44 people And they didn't need to do that. 331 00:16:04,433 --> 00:16:05,867 Bell: It was only a few days later 332 00:16:05,867 --> 00:16:07,833 When the germans Actually arrived. 333 00:16:07,833 --> 00:16:09,633 They discovered That the islands had been 334 00:16:09,633 --> 00:16:12,533 Undefended the whole time. 335 00:16:12,533 --> 00:16:14,386 [ bell tolling ] 336 00:16:14,386 --> 00:16:15,000 [ bell tolling ] 337 00:16:16,633 --> 00:16:20,600 Nusbacher: in 1940, britain Was standing alone 338 00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:23,167 Against the power Of the third reich, 339 00:16:23,167 --> 00:16:25,833 And churchill was not sure 340 00:16:25,833 --> 00:16:30,067 He could defend The island of great britain, 341 00:16:30,067 --> 00:16:35,100 Never mind guernsey, Jersey, sark, and alderney. 342 00:16:35,100 --> 00:16:36,467 Narrator: While churchill viewed 343 00:16:36,467 --> 00:16:38,267 The islands as expendable, 344 00:16:38,267 --> 00:16:41,333 Hitler had other ideas. 345 00:16:41,333 --> 00:16:43,533 He desperately Wanted them fortified 346 00:16:43,533 --> 00:16:44,386 With the most Impressive defenses 347 00:16:44,386 --> 00:16:45,000 With the most Impressive defenses 348 00:16:45,633 --> 00:16:50,667 The third reich could create. 349 00:16:50,667 --> 00:16:55,667 Here on guernsey, This was part of their answer. 350 00:16:55,667 --> 00:17:01,367 The mighty mp3 tower. 351 00:17:01,367 --> 00:17:05,233 Local expert and Preservationist paul bourgaize 352 00:17:05,233 --> 00:17:09,933 Explains how the tower Fitted into the nazis' plan. 353 00:17:09,933 --> 00:17:12,467 Bourgaize: it was basically A range-finding tower. 354 00:17:12,467 --> 00:17:14,200 It was one of five. 355 00:17:14,200 --> 00:17:14,386 And each level had range Fighting capabilities 356 00:17:14,386 --> 00:17:15,000 And each level had range Fighting capabilities 357 00:17:16,633 --> 00:17:19,167 To obviously Find and observe targets 358 00:17:19,167 --> 00:17:24,600 And send the data back To the gun batteries inland. 359 00:17:24,600 --> 00:17:26,867 Narrator: The germans spent over a year 360 00:17:26,867 --> 00:17:29,067 Building up their Extensive network 361 00:17:29,067 --> 00:17:34,667 Of defenses on guernsey. 362 00:17:34,667 --> 00:17:39,300 Located a few miles inland From the mp3 range tower, 363 00:17:39,300 --> 00:17:41,500 This immense concrete bowl 364 00:17:41,500 --> 00:17:44,386 Was to be one of its Most important features. 365 00:17:44,386 --> 00:17:44,867 Was to be one of its Most important features. 366 00:17:47,567 --> 00:17:51,467 But what was it used for? 367 00:17:51,467 --> 00:17:56,567 A clue is the rail tracks That snake underground. 368 00:17:58,467 --> 00:18:00,600 Bourgaize: this little railway Track was used 369 00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:05,167 To bring the ammunition From the storage bunkers, 370 00:18:05,167 --> 00:18:10,367 And they would be stored In this large room here, 371 00:18:10,367 --> 00:18:11,700 And these would Be loaded through 372 00:18:11,700 --> 00:18:14,386 This flash proof hatch And then stored in that room. 373 00:18:14,386 --> 00:18:15,000 This flash proof hatch And then stored in that room. 374 00:18:16,767 --> 00:18:20,333 Narrator: more than 61,000 cubic yards of concrete 375 00:18:20,333 --> 00:18:24,333 Were consumed By these bunker systems. 376 00:18:24,333 --> 00:18:26,167 They contained troop quarters, 377 00:18:26,167 --> 00:18:30,333 Ammunition storage, And electrical generators, 378 00:18:30,333 --> 00:18:36,067 All built to withstand An immense amount of firepower. 379 00:18:36,067 --> 00:18:37,967 And deep in the darkness, 380 00:18:37,967 --> 00:18:40,400 Slogans on The walls indicate that 381 00:18:40,400 --> 00:18:43,567 This structure was Built with a real sense 382 00:18:43,567 --> 00:18:44,386 Of pride and optimism. 383 00:18:44,386 --> 00:18:45,000 Of pride and optimism. 384 00:18:48,133 --> 00:18:50,167 Bourgaize: You can see one side, 385 00:18:50,167 --> 00:18:54,367 We've got a large german Eagle painted on the wall. 386 00:18:54,367 --> 00:18:56,233 And over on this side, 387 00:18:56,233 --> 00:19:00,133 The emblem of The naval engineers. 388 00:19:00,133 --> 00:19:02,900 Then it's called, and we're Marching towards england. 389 00:19:02,900 --> 00:19:05,333 That was the motto. 390 00:19:05,333 --> 00:19:08,967 Nusbacher: "Wir fahren nach england." 391 00:19:08,967 --> 00:19:10,533 We are going to england. 392 00:19:10,533 --> 00:19:14,386 The germans intended To invade england. 393 00:19:14,386 --> 00:19:14,600 The germans intended To invade england. 394 00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:15,000 Why would they be Painting that on a bunker? 395 00:19:19,733 --> 00:19:21,100 Narrator: This german confidence 396 00:19:21,100 --> 00:19:24,067 May have been due To what was housed 397 00:19:24,067 --> 00:19:27,700 In the huge concrete bowl -- 398 00:19:27,700 --> 00:19:30,700 A behemoth of a gun. 399 00:19:30,700 --> 00:19:35,067 This bunker complex Was called batterie mirus. 400 00:19:35,067 --> 00:19:37,933 * 401 00:19:37,933 --> 00:19:40,433 Bell: it consisted Of four gun emplacements 402 00:19:40,433 --> 00:19:44,386 With huge great big guns Disguised as houses. 403 00:19:44,386 --> 00:19:45,000 With huge great big guns Disguised as houses. 404 00:19:45,267 --> 00:19:48,067 You can start to imagine The size 405 00:19:48,067 --> 00:19:51,067 And the scale of these guns. 406 00:19:54,800 --> 00:19:57,200 Here we are, We can see one of the four 407 00:19:57,200 --> 00:20:02,100 Huge emplacements For the 30.5 centimeter gun. 408 00:20:02,100 --> 00:20:04,033 Mounted there On that central position 409 00:20:04,033 --> 00:20:07,100 Where those studs Are sticking up. 410 00:20:07,100 --> 00:20:11,633 Underneath the mount Was a naval depth charge. 411 00:20:11,633 --> 00:20:13,667 And that could've been detonated In the event that 412 00:20:13,667 --> 00:20:14,386 The emplacement was captured, 413 00:20:14,386 --> 00:20:15,000 The emplacement was captured, 414 00:20:16,867 --> 00:20:18,700 And blow the gun Off its mountings. 415 00:20:18,700 --> 00:20:23,867 * 416 00:20:23,867 --> 00:20:26,067 Narrator: What event led to desperate 417 00:20:26,067 --> 00:20:28,567 Starvation at this facility, 418 00:20:28,567 --> 00:20:33,100 And why did the soldiers Eventually abandon this site? 419 00:20:34,500 --> 00:20:35,000 * 420 00:20:40,700 --> 00:20:42,600 Narrator: on the british island Of guernsey 421 00:20:42,600 --> 00:20:50,100 Lies the wreckage of a Formidable nazi artillery site. 422 00:20:50,100 --> 00:20:52,833 With a range of over 30 miles, 423 00:20:52,833 --> 00:20:55,500 The four guns could Protect the channel islands 424 00:20:55,500 --> 00:21:01,300 And reach almost all The way to the normandy coast. 425 00:21:01,300 --> 00:21:04,199 Guernsey's firepower Was devastating. 426 00:21:04,199 --> 00:21:04,967 Guernsey's firepower Was devastating. 427 00:21:04,967 --> 00:21:05,000 In total, there were 17 coastal artillery batteries, 428 00:21:09,333 --> 00:21:15,367 And 175 anti-aircraft guns On the island, 429 00:21:15,367 --> 00:21:20,800 But their construction consumed An enormous amount of resources. 430 00:21:20,800 --> 00:21:23,533 Jerram: this was part Of the atlantic wall, 431 00:21:23,533 --> 00:21:26,367 Which stretched all the way From norway down to spain. 432 00:21:26,367 --> 00:21:28,533 And it's estimated That some 8% percent 433 00:21:28,533 --> 00:21:29,733 Of all of the concrete along 434 00:21:29,733 --> 00:21:31,500 All of those Constructions was just 435 00:21:31,500 --> 00:21:34,199 Housed in the channel islands. 436 00:21:34,199 --> 00:21:34,367 Housed in the channel islands. 437 00:21:34,367 --> 00:21:35,000 In fact, they fortified The channel islands so much 438 00:21:38,067 --> 00:21:40,433 That there were more guns Installed here 439 00:21:40,433 --> 00:21:41,833 Than there were On the neighboring 440 00:21:41,833 --> 00:21:46,467 600 miles of normandy coastline. 441 00:21:46,467 --> 00:21:49,267 Nusbacher: german officers Who were skeptical 442 00:21:49,267 --> 00:21:52,533 About the strategic And operational 443 00:21:52,533 --> 00:21:55,467 Value of the channel islands 444 00:21:55,467 --> 00:22:00,733 Refer to the dense resource Intensive fortifications 445 00:22:00,733 --> 00:22:04,199 As "Hitler's island madness." 446 00:22:04,199 --> 00:22:05,000 As "Hitler's island madness." 447 00:22:05,567 --> 00:22:10,800 Narrator: but why was Batterie mirus abandoned? 448 00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:13,300 Were its guns blown off Their mountings, 449 00:22:13,300 --> 00:22:18,600 Or was the incredible Structure never finished? 450 00:22:18,600 --> 00:22:24,533 The beginning of The end was june 6, 1944. 451 00:22:24,533 --> 00:22:29,133 D-day and the allied Invasion of france. 452 00:22:31,933 --> 00:22:34,199 After the d-day landings, The german soldiers based 453 00:22:34,199 --> 00:22:35,000 After the d-day landings, The german soldiers based 454 00:22:35,133 --> 00:22:38,067 In the channel islands Became cut off 455 00:22:38,067 --> 00:22:42,700 And had no access to supplies. 456 00:22:42,700 --> 00:22:44,233 There were red cross packages 457 00:22:44,233 --> 00:22:45,733 Delivered onto the islands, 458 00:22:45,733 --> 00:22:48,600 But they were for locals Only, for the british. 459 00:22:48,600 --> 00:22:52,700 The germans had to go without. 460 00:22:52,700 --> 00:22:54,067 Bourgaize: the troops themselves That weren't 461 00:22:54,067 --> 00:22:57,267 Allowed those rations Were really starving. 462 00:22:57,267 --> 00:23:01,100 They were trying to catch birds, 463 00:23:01,100 --> 00:23:04,199 Eating limpets off The beach, anything, seaweed. 464 00:23:04,199 --> 00:23:04,700 Eating limpets off The beach, anything, seaweed. 465 00:23:04,700 --> 00:23:05,000 And some things even Making themselves sick. 466 00:23:07,333 --> 00:23:09,667 Eating things that really they Shouldn't have been eating, 467 00:23:09,667 --> 00:23:12,767 Just to stay alive. 468 00:23:12,767 --> 00:23:15,700 Narrator: After almost a year of hunger, 469 00:23:15,700 --> 00:23:18,667 The german garrison finally Surrendered guernsey 470 00:23:18,667 --> 00:23:24,200 On may 9, 1945. 471 00:23:24,200 --> 00:23:26,733 Batterie mirus fell silent, 472 00:23:26,733 --> 00:23:30,067 And its colossal guns Were sold off for scrap. 473 00:23:30,067 --> 00:23:34,199 * 474 00:23:34,199 --> 00:23:35,000 * 475 00:23:38,367 --> 00:23:41,767 Today, these Other worldly concrete 476 00:23:41,767 --> 00:23:44,100 Structures of the third reich 477 00:23:44,100 --> 00:23:47,233 Still dominate The guernsey skyline, 478 00:23:47,233 --> 00:23:49,967 And recall a time When these islands 479 00:23:49,967 --> 00:23:56,867 Became the most fortified Place on earth. 480 00:23:56,867 --> 00:24:00,733 Nusbacher: Looking at these massive Concrete fortifications, 481 00:24:00,733 --> 00:24:04,167 It reminds us that Even tiny corners of europe 482 00:24:04,167 --> 00:24:04,199 That we barely even heard of 483 00:24:04,199 --> 00:24:05,000 That we barely even heard of 484 00:24:07,067 --> 00:24:09,167 Were really important To some people 485 00:24:09,167 --> 00:24:12,433 And to their lives as they lived Through the second world war. 486 00:24:12,433 --> 00:24:18,767 * 487 00:24:18,767 --> 00:24:20,533 Narrator: In southern finland, 488 00:24:20,533 --> 00:24:22,833 On the edge of the baltic sea, 489 00:24:22,833 --> 00:24:26,933 Is what's known locally As the mysterious island. 490 00:24:26,933 --> 00:24:33,067 * 491 00:24:33,067 --> 00:24:34,199 Meigs: from a distance, It looks like other 492 00:24:34,199 --> 00:24:35,000 Meigs: from a distance, It looks like other 493 00:24:35,700 --> 00:24:37,900 Islands in the region. 494 00:24:37,900 --> 00:24:39,900 When you get closer, 495 00:24:39,900 --> 00:24:42,600 You can see there's Something different about it. 496 00:24:42,600 --> 00:24:46,233 Jerram: the island itself has A kind of darkness. 497 00:24:46,233 --> 00:24:49,967 Everything's A little bit spooky. 498 00:24:49,967 --> 00:24:51,167 And you wouldn't Necessarily want 499 00:24:51,167 --> 00:24:54,067 To find yourself On the island alone. 500 00:24:56,333 --> 00:24:59,067 Narrator: compasses flicker Out of control. 501 00:24:59,067 --> 00:25:01,367 Beaches are stained black. 502 00:25:01,367 --> 00:25:04,199 And as you approach, Things get even stranger. 503 00:25:04,199 --> 00:25:05,000 And as you approach, Things get even stranger. 504 00:25:08,067 --> 00:25:10,733 Meigs: you can spot what Looks like bunkers 505 00:25:10,733 --> 00:25:14,700 Hidden along the shoreline, Ruins of old pipelines, 506 00:25:14,700 --> 00:25:18,633 Piles of broken up Rock and concrete. 507 00:25:18,633 --> 00:25:22,333 This isn't an ordinary island. 508 00:25:22,333 --> 00:25:24,500 Jerram: the island itself Is also riddled 509 00:25:24,500 --> 00:25:27,767 With some ancient history About tales of 510 00:25:27,767 --> 00:25:31,333 Compasses not working Quite correctly. 511 00:25:31,333 --> 00:25:34,199 Meigs: there have been a whole History of shipwrecks. 512 00:25:34,199 --> 00:25:35,000 Meigs: there have been a whole History of shipwrecks. 513 00:25:35,600 --> 00:25:37,200 Narrator: Wreckage and destruction 514 00:25:37,200 --> 00:25:40,067 Is not confined to the waters. 515 00:25:40,067 --> 00:25:44,700 On land too, The carnage continues. 516 00:25:44,700 --> 00:25:48,433 Meigs: All the structures that exist Are riddled with bullet holes 517 00:25:48,433 --> 00:25:49,667 And signs of explosions. 518 00:25:49,667 --> 00:25:53,067 It's like you're walking Through a war zone. 519 00:25:53,067 --> 00:25:54,700 Jerram: what is the problem With this place? 520 00:25:54,700 --> 00:25:56,533 Why is it so odd? 521 00:25:56,533 --> 00:26:01,700 * 522 00:26:01,700 --> 00:26:04,199 The answers To this peculiar puzzle 523 00:26:04,199 --> 00:26:04,367 The answers To this peculiar puzzle 524 00:26:04,367 --> 00:26:05,000 Can be found back in The early 19th century. 525 00:26:09,233 --> 00:26:13,067 By 1809, finland had Been incorporated 526 00:26:13,067 --> 00:26:14,833 Into the russian empire, 527 00:26:14,833 --> 00:26:20,733 And this was A strategically vital site. 528 00:26:20,733 --> 00:26:22,700 Jussaro island. 529 00:26:26,533 --> 00:26:29,467 Corum: The southern part of finland Is very important to russia 530 00:26:29,467 --> 00:26:34,199 Because that is the gate to The capital at st. Petersburg. 531 00:26:34,199 --> 00:26:34,700 Because that is the gate to The capital at st. Petersburg. 532 00:26:34,700 --> 00:26:35,000 And so, controlling The gulf of finland 533 00:26:37,433 --> 00:26:43,433 Is an absolute defense Requirement for russia. 534 00:26:43,433 --> 00:26:45,467 Meigs: it sits in such A strategic location 535 00:26:45,467 --> 00:26:46,900 In the baltic sea. 536 00:26:46,900 --> 00:26:49,400 Anybody trying to Head to helsinki 537 00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:51,367 Or the port of st. Petersburg In russia 538 00:26:51,367 --> 00:26:53,533 Has to sail right By that island. 539 00:26:53,533 --> 00:26:57,833 That makes it very valuable From a military perspective. 540 00:26:57,833 --> 00:27:03,300 Narrator: it's strategic, But also extremely dangerous. 541 00:27:03,300 --> 00:27:04,199 In the glacial periods, 542 00:27:04,199 --> 00:27:04,467 In the glacial periods, 543 00:27:04,467 --> 00:27:05,000 Jerram: it was covered under Kilometers of ice. 544 00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:08,067 It was pushed down. 545 00:27:08,067 --> 00:27:09,200 Since the ice is gone, 546 00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:11,500 The area is actually Slowly lifting, 547 00:27:11,500 --> 00:27:14,833 About four millimeters a year. 548 00:27:14,833 --> 00:27:17,067 Meigs: so you might sail Past a place that 549 00:27:17,067 --> 00:27:19,300 50 years ago was free sailing, 550 00:27:19,300 --> 00:27:22,967 And now, there's A rocky island emerging 551 00:27:22,967 --> 00:27:25,733 Right in your path. 552 00:27:25,733 --> 00:27:27,067 Narrator: under russian rule, 553 00:27:27,067 --> 00:27:30,200 A pilot station Was quickly set up here 554 00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:33,333 To help ships navigate These precarious waters 555 00:27:33,333 --> 00:27:34,199 Through to st. Petersburg. 556 00:27:34,199 --> 00:27:35,000 Through to st. Petersburg. 557 00:27:36,267 --> 00:27:39,633 But why do the remnants Of an extensive complex 558 00:27:39,633 --> 00:27:43,433 Litter this remote outpost? 559 00:27:43,433 --> 00:27:45,767 An underground discovery Quickly grabbed 560 00:27:45,767 --> 00:27:50,233 The interest Of the russian state. 561 00:27:50,233 --> 00:27:52,733 Somara: It turns out to have Been an amazing find 562 00:27:52,733 --> 00:27:54,667 Because it was the Largest undersea 563 00:27:54,667 --> 00:27:58,933 Iron ore reserve in finland. 564 00:27:58,933 --> 00:28:01,400 Narrator: this explains The centuries old mystery 565 00:28:01,400 --> 00:28:04,199 Of why ships' compasses Work so badly here. 566 00:28:04,199 --> 00:28:05,000 Of why ships' compasses Work so badly here. 567 00:28:07,133 --> 00:28:09,100 Somara: Compasses work by being drawn 568 00:28:09,100 --> 00:28:10,633 To the magnetic field Of the north pole, 569 00:28:10,633 --> 00:28:15,233 But the iron ore In this particular region 570 00:28:15,233 --> 00:28:16,667 Had its own magnetic field, 571 00:28:16,667 --> 00:28:18,267 And compasses were More drawn to that 572 00:28:18,267 --> 00:28:22,767 Than the north pole. 573 00:28:22,767 --> 00:28:24,533 Narrator: Did finland come to blows 574 00:28:24,533 --> 00:28:26,967 With their mighty Russian rulers? 575 00:28:26,967 --> 00:28:30,267 Does this explain The site's destruction? 576 00:28:33,067 --> 00:28:38,200 * 577 00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:39,900 Narrator: On the southern tip of finland 578 00:28:39,900 --> 00:28:45,100 Sits the iron-rich Island of jussaro. 579 00:28:45,100 --> 00:28:49,133 In the 1840s, russian prisoners Were shipped to its mine 580 00:28:49,133 --> 00:28:55,733 And forced to excavate The valuable metal ore. 581 00:28:55,733 --> 00:28:57,100 Meigs: The miners were down there 582 00:28:57,100 --> 00:29:00,300 With long metal drills And sledgehammers, 583 00:29:00,300 --> 00:29:02,744 Banging away, dislodging The rock face bit by bit. 584 00:29:02,744 --> 00:29:03,000 Banging away, dislodging The rock face bit by bit. 585 00:29:06,067 --> 00:29:08,233 And the conditions Were so hellish, 586 00:29:08,233 --> 00:29:09,500 Some of the prisoners reported 587 00:29:09,500 --> 00:29:14,633 They would rather be sent To labor camps in siberia. 588 00:29:14,633 --> 00:29:17,233 Narrator: by the time finland Declared independence 589 00:29:17,233 --> 00:29:23,467 From russia in 1917, mining On the island had stopped. 590 00:29:23,467 --> 00:29:26,567 During the following Decades, the young nation's 591 00:29:26,567 --> 00:29:30,067 Relationship with its Communist neighbor was marked 592 00:29:30,067 --> 00:29:32,733 By tension and war. 593 00:29:32,733 --> 00:29:32,744 By the 1950s, however, Finland had settled into an 594 00:29:32,744 --> 00:29:33,000 By the 1950s, however, Finland had settled into an 595 00:29:36,333 --> 00:29:42,633 Uneasy existence between The west and the soviet union. 596 00:29:42,633 --> 00:29:48,667 In these tense political times, Mining at jussaro began again. 597 00:29:48,667 --> 00:29:51,733 Finland reopened the mines, And now they had modern 598 00:29:51,733 --> 00:29:54,667 Equipment and they could Mine on a much greater, 599 00:29:54,667 --> 00:29:57,633 More industrial scale. 600 00:29:57,633 --> 00:30:00,067 Narrator: does this explain The extensive complex 601 00:30:00,067 --> 00:30:02,233 Of buildings here? 602 00:30:02,233 --> 00:30:02,744 Do the bunkers on the coastline Speak of russian aggression? 603 00:30:02,744 --> 00:30:03,000 Do the bunkers on the coastline Speak of russian aggression? 604 00:30:08,033 --> 00:30:10,967 When mining started back up Again, they had to put in 605 00:30:10,967 --> 00:30:16,833 A whole new infrastructure, Which included crushing plants, 606 00:30:16,833 --> 00:30:17,933 Underwater railway lines, 607 00:30:17,933 --> 00:30:21,900 Pipe networks on land, Deep tunnels. 608 00:30:21,900 --> 00:30:25,633 I mean, it became A productive mining machine. 609 00:30:25,633 --> 00:30:29,533 * 610 00:30:29,533 --> 00:30:32,300 Narrator: former resident, Goran wikstrom, 611 00:30:32,300 --> 00:30:32,744 Arrived in 1956, 612 00:30:32,744 --> 00:30:33,000 Arrived in 1956, 613 00:30:35,100 --> 00:30:40,500 As modern mining operations Were being prepared. 614 00:30:40,500 --> 00:30:42,667 Interpreter: the tunnel went Straight out from here 615 00:30:42,667 --> 00:30:45,233 To the stone island. 616 00:30:45,233 --> 00:30:47,767 The tunnel went straight out From there from the shaft 617 00:30:47,767 --> 00:30:51,367 Above at a depth of 550 feet. 618 00:30:51,367 --> 00:30:54,667 Out there it was mining Tunnels, in total, 619 00:30:54,667 --> 00:31:00,300 1.8 miles of tunnels all At a depth of nearly 600 feet. 620 00:31:02,467 --> 00:31:02,744 Narrator: However, mining on the island 621 00:31:02,744 --> 00:31:03,000 Narrator: However, mining on the island 622 00:31:05,133 --> 00:31:09,467 Once again proved unsustainable. 623 00:31:09,467 --> 00:31:13,367 Global iron prices were Plummeting, and profits did not 624 00:31:13,367 --> 00:31:17,067 Justify continuing operations. 625 00:31:17,067 --> 00:31:22,500 The workers were sent packing. 626 00:31:22,500 --> 00:31:26,700 Interpreter: It was at christmas in 1967 When the final decision 627 00:31:26,700 --> 00:31:30,067 Was made that everyone Was to leave here. 628 00:31:30,067 --> 00:31:31,533 It was over, in other words. 629 00:31:31,533 --> 00:31:32,744 We just moved out, and then The destruction set in. 630 00:31:32,744 --> 00:31:33,000 We just moved out, and then The destruction set in. 631 00:31:35,700 --> 00:31:39,800 * 632 00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:44,067 But what caused This carnage and destruction? 633 00:31:44,067 --> 00:31:47,100 The damage here is not Simply down to nature 634 00:31:47,100 --> 00:31:50,600 And the elements. 635 00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:54,900 Meigs: After the miners moved out, The finnish army moved in. 636 00:31:54,900 --> 00:31:58,767 The government realized this Location was just too strategic 637 00:31:58,767 --> 00:32:01,500 To leave unoccupied. 638 00:32:01,500 --> 00:32:02,744 The 60s, 70s, and 80s, Yes, there was a very genuine 639 00:32:02,744 --> 00:32:03,000 The 60s, 70s, and 80s, Yes, there was a very genuine 640 00:32:05,067 --> 00:32:07,367 Threat from the soviet union. 641 00:32:07,367 --> 00:32:10,400 They were pretty careful To be pretty conciliatory 642 00:32:10,400 --> 00:32:12,433 To russia during Much of that period. 643 00:32:12,433 --> 00:32:14,933 But a lot of the use Of the island was really 644 00:32:14,933 --> 00:32:18,767 For training And military exercises. 645 00:32:18,767 --> 00:32:22,733 And it was a place where They could fire weapons 646 00:32:22,733 --> 00:32:27,267 And drop bombs without any Danger of injuring the civilian 647 00:32:27,267 --> 00:32:30,967 Population, because there Was no civilian population. 648 00:32:30,967 --> 00:32:32,744 Narrator: The russian invasion never came. 649 00:32:32,744 --> 00:32:33,000 Narrator: The russian invasion never came. 650 00:32:34,167 --> 00:32:39,100 In 2002, the armed forces held Their last shooting drill, 651 00:32:39,100 --> 00:32:43,867 And the island was then Abandoned once again. 652 00:32:43,867 --> 00:32:49,367 * 653 00:32:49,367 --> 00:32:53,733 Today, the battered site Serves as a national park, 654 00:32:53,733 --> 00:33:00,067 With half the island Open to the public. 655 00:33:00,067 --> 00:33:02,744 Jerram: it's a smorgasbord Of mining and militarization. 656 00:33:02,744 --> 00:33:03,000 Jerram: it's a smorgasbord Of mining and militarization. 657 00:33:03,733 --> 00:33:05,300 There's bullet holes everywhere. 658 00:33:05,300 --> 00:33:08,200 It's actually seen a lot Of action, this small island 659 00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:09,833 In the middle of nowhere. 660 00:33:09,833 --> 00:33:16,200 * 661 00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:19,067 Narrator: on the suffolk Coastline in eastern england 662 00:33:19,067 --> 00:33:23,433 Are a string of abandoned Buildings, strange mounds, 663 00:33:23,433 --> 00:33:29,833 And intriguing Pagoda-like structures. 664 00:33:29,833 --> 00:33:32,744 Selwood: It's incredibly isolated. 665 00:33:32,744 --> 00:33:33,000 Selwood: It's incredibly isolated. 666 00:33:33,467 --> 00:33:36,600 It's bleak, it's cut off From the mainland by a river. 667 00:33:36,600 --> 00:33:38,633 But yet, there are These strange mounds 668 00:33:38,633 --> 00:33:41,367 And structures on it. 669 00:33:41,367 --> 00:33:44,167 Narrator: within the Dilapidated buildings, 670 00:33:44,167 --> 00:33:49,100 The interiors Are equally mystifying. 671 00:33:49,100 --> 00:33:51,567 Selwood: inside the buildings Have an abandoned 672 00:33:51,567 --> 00:33:53,067 Quasi-industrial feel. 673 00:33:53,067 --> 00:33:55,500 There are elements of metal And machinery still there, 674 00:33:55,500 --> 00:33:58,333 But long disused. 675 00:33:58,333 --> 00:34:00,267 Pretty well all the work That was carried out here 676 00:34:00,267 --> 00:34:02,744 Was secret, Ultimately top secret. 677 00:34:02,744 --> 00:34:03,000 Was secret, Ultimately top secret. 678 00:34:05,300 --> 00:34:09,300 Nusbacher: you're still warned To this day that you mustn't 679 00:34:09,300 --> 00:34:14,433 Tread incorrectly Or you can be blown sky high. 680 00:34:14,433 --> 00:34:17,167 Narrator: what was the purpose Of these battered buildings 681 00:34:17,167 --> 00:34:21,900 And strange Asian-inspired pagodas? 682 00:34:21,900 --> 00:34:27,767 And why is this area Still filled with danger? 683 00:34:27,767 --> 00:34:31,100 Nusbacher: You look at all of these Solidly-built buildings, 684 00:34:31,100 --> 00:34:32,744 And you look at the terrible Destruction that's clearly 685 00:34:32,744 --> 00:34:33,000 And you look at the terrible Destruction that's clearly 686 00:34:34,633 --> 00:34:36,067 Been wreaked on them. 687 00:34:36,067 --> 00:34:38,933 You have to ask, what Happened to these buildings? 688 00:34:38,933 --> 00:34:44,467 * 689 00:34:44,467 --> 00:34:47,933 Narrator: the first clues to The site's use can be found 690 00:34:47,933 --> 00:34:53,233 Back in the tension filled Years surrounding world war I. 691 00:34:53,233 --> 00:34:58,567 In 1913, the war department Acquired this large area of land 692 00:34:58,567 --> 00:35:02,300 Near a small village In suffolk in order to harness 693 00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:02,744 The latest technology In warfare. 694 00:35:02,744 --> 00:35:03,000 The latest technology In warfare. 695 00:35:06,867 --> 00:35:09,967 Nusbacher: This is the corner of england Where the experimenters came 696 00:35:09,967 --> 00:35:12,833 To find out what happened When you dropped a bomb 697 00:35:12,833 --> 00:35:15,067 From the plane. 698 00:35:15,067 --> 00:35:17,800 In a lot of ways, This beach is where 699 00:35:17,800 --> 00:35:22,367 Military aviation started. 700 00:35:22,367 --> 00:35:25,400 Narrator: the race was on To test and develop this 701 00:35:25,400 --> 00:35:29,333 New military science, And this pioneering site 702 00:35:29,333 --> 00:35:31,600 Was leading the way -- 703 00:35:31,600 --> 00:35:32,744 Orford ness. 704 00:35:32,744 --> 00:35:33,000 Orford ness. 705 00:35:35,067 --> 00:35:38,067 Selwood: in world war I, aerial Warfare was completely new. 706 00:35:38,067 --> 00:35:40,400 People had to invent A new military science, 707 00:35:40,400 --> 00:35:41,900 And to start with it Was very crude. 708 00:35:41,900 --> 00:35:46,667 It was simply a question of Dropping bombs out of windows. 709 00:35:46,667 --> 00:35:49,067 Nusbacher: we didn't know what Happened to a bomb dropped 710 00:35:49,067 --> 00:35:53,800 From a plane until the guys At orford ness watched it 711 00:35:53,800 --> 00:35:55,867 And measured it With their instruments. 712 00:35:55,867 --> 00:35:57,933 [ camera shutter clicks ] 713 00:36:00,233 --> 00:36:02,744 Narrator: from pioneering Research to a top secret 714 00:36:02,744 --> 00:36:03,000 Narrator: from pioneering Research to a top secret 715 00:36:03,067 --> 00:36:06,067 Super weapon, Could a catastrophic accident 716 00:36:06,067 --> 00:36:08,900 Have led to the site Being abandoned? 717 00:36:11,167 --> 00:36:17,500 * 718 00:36:17,500 --> 00:36:21,667 Narrator: in suffolk, england, Orford ness established itself 719 00:36:21,667 --> 00:36:24,367 As a prime ballistics Testing site, 720 00:36:24,367 --> 00:36:27,967 Critical to britain's Aerial forces. 721 00:36:27,967 --> 00:36:32,600 However, after world war ii, Mistrust and paranoia 722 00:36:32,600 --> 00:36:36,433 Were prevalent as A new era was ushered in. 723 00:36:39,767 --> 00:36:40,735 Selwood: During the second world war, 724 00:36:40,735 --> 00:36:41,000 Selwood: During the second world war, 725 00:36:41,067 --> 00:36:43,333 The uk and us had Collaborated very closely 726 00:36:43,333 --> 00:36:44,867 On weapons development, 727 00:36:44,867 --> 00:36:47,833 But as the cold war Emerged after 1945, 728 00:36:47,833 --> 00:36:50,733 The two parted company Fairly spectacularly, 729 00:36:50,733 --> 00:36:53,767 And britain was left alone To develop its own weapons, 730 00:36:53,767 --> 00:36:56,800 Including nuclear weapons. 731 00:36:56,800 --> 00:37:02,267 The west goes into Overdrive in developing 732 00:37:02,267 --> 00:37:04,933 Nuclear weapons in 1949. 733 00:37:04,933 --> 00:37:08,833 This is the height Of the cold war. 734 00:37:08,833 --> 00:37:10,735 Narrator: britain was now Engaged in a nuclear arms race, 735 00:37:10,735 --> 00:37:11,000 Narrator: britain was now Engaged in a nuclear arms race, 736 00:37:13,100 --> 00:37:15,333 And this site was transformed 737 00:37:15,333 --> 00:37:18,567 Into the atomic weapons Research establishment. 738 00:37:22,667 --> 00:37:26,867 Nusbacher: you don't want an Atomic bomb to go off 739 00:37:26,867 --> 00:37:30,133 Between the factory And the airfield. 740 00:37:30,133 --> 00:37:34,233 You don't want the atomic bomb To go off on the plane 741 00:37:34,233 --> 00:37:37,900 On the way to the target, and You don't want the atomic bomb 742 00:37:37,900 --> 00:37:40,735 To go off at the wrong time After you drop it. 743 00:37:40,735 --> 00:37:41,000 To go off at the wrong time After you drop it. 744 00:37:41,967 --> 00:37:45,300 All of those problems Needed to be worked out 745 00:37:45,300 --> 00:37:47,567 With experimentation And that required 746 00:37:47,567 --> 00:37:50,433 An experimentation site. 747 00:37:53,533 --> 00:37:56,933 Narrator: so did an accidental Explosion or chernobyl-style 748 00:37:56,933 --> 00:38:01,333 Radiation leak lead To the site being abandoned? 749 00:38:03,067 --> 00:38:06,133 What experiments Took place here? 750 00:38:06,133 --> 00:38:09,500 The site's manager, Grant lohorr, explains. 751 00:38:09,500 --> 00:38:10,735 * 752 00:38:10,735 --> 00:38:11,000 * 753 00:38:13,467 --> 00:38:16,167 Lohorr: the first test carried Out here was on vibrations, 754 00:38:16,167 --> 00:38:18,800 So they were trying To replicate the vibration 755 00:38:18,800 --> 00:38:21,633 In an aircraft or In a lorry on the road, 756 00:38:21,633 --> 00:38:26,200 Or they were subjecting Them to shock or g forces 757 00:38:26,200 --> 00:38:30,933 Or humidity or temperature. 758 00:38:30,933 --> 00:38:34,333 Narrator: each laboratory was Designed to test different 759 00:38:34,333 --> 00:38:39,067 Components of nuclear bombs. 760 00:38:39,067 --> 00:38:40,735 So this is what was called The hard target 761 00:38:40,735 --> 00:38:41,000 So this is what was called The hard target 762 00:38:42,133 --> 00:38:44,600 Or the high-impact facility. 763 00:38:44,600 --> 00:38:47,600 And this is essentially where They were rocket propelling 764 00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:51,967 Atomic bomb cases, nuclear Bomb cases, into a very hard, 765 00:38:51,967 --> 00:38:55,067 Concrete wall, Which was effectively 766 00:38:55,067 --> 00:39:00,267 Replicating the impact of The weapon when it was dropped. 767 00:39:00,267 --> 00:39:03,133 Narrator: yet the two most Intriguing facilities 768 00:39:03,133 --> 00:39:06,567 At orford are at Its farthest point. 769 00:39:06,567 --> 00:39:09,200 They are the pagodas. 770 00:39:12,467 --> 00:39:15,133 Do these mysterious Structures hold the key 771 00:39:15,133 --> 00:39:18,200 To the site's abandonment? 772 00:39:18,200 --> 00:39:20,633 Nusbacher: this looks like An ancient temple. 773 00:39:20,633 --> 00:39:24,533 It's got columns holding up A pyramid. 774 00:39:24,533 --> 00:39:27,067 It's got arcane markings On the walls, 775 00:39:27,067 --> 00:39:31,933 These strange, Cruciform brackets. 776 00:39:31,933 --> 00:39:34,367 Narrator: were these strange Structures some kind 777 00:39:34,367 --> 00:39:36,867 Of defensive bunker? 778 00:39:36,867 --> 00:39:40,735 The work done here Was shrouded in secrecy. 779 00:39:40,735 --> 00:39:41,000 The work done here Was shrouded in secrecy. 780 00:39:41,600 --> 00:39:44,833 Lohorr: during that period from The late '50s into the 1960s, 781 00:39:44,833 --> 00:39:48,200 The most paranoid period Probably of the cold war, 782 00:39:48,200 --> 00:39:50,733 Everything really Was extremely secret. 783 00:39:50,733 --> 00:39:54,600 And it appears as if The site was constantly being 784 00:39:54,600 --> 00:39:56,233 Monitored and surveyed And photographed 785 00:39:56,233 --> 00:39:59,200 By the soviet union. 786 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:05,233 And so everything around it Was cloaked in secrecy. 787 00:40:05,233 --> 00:40:08,233 The architecture of The buildings is highly unusual, 788 00:40:08,233 --> 00:40:09,667 But very specific. 789 00:40:09,667 --> 00:40:10,735 They were created Explicitly for the purpose 790 00:40:10,735 --> 00:40:11,000 They were created Explicitly for the purpose 791 00:40:12,100 --> 00:40:18,333 Of understanding the behavior Of weaponry and explosions. 792 00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:23,433 Nusbacher: This is a place designed So that if the pillars are 793 00:40:23,433 --> 00:40:28,200 Blown up, the roof drops Down and clamps all 794 00:40:28,200 --> 00:40:33,133 Of the explosion and debris Down into the ground. 795 00:40:33,133 --> 00:40:35,900 Narrator: research conducted At orford ness 796 00:40:35,900 --> 00:40:38,167 Remains largely secret. 797 00:40:38,167 --> 00:40:40,735 Yet, ironically, Its success helped bring about 798 00:40:40,735 --> 00:40:41,000 Yet, ironically, Its success helped bring about 799 00:40:42,067 --> 00:40:46,433 Its own demise. 800 00:40:46,433 --> 00:40:51,067 The u.S. Were so impressed by The work, they re-established 801 00:40:51,067 --> 00:40:54,567 Their old relationship with Britain to help advance both 802 00:40:54,567 --> 00:40:58,767 Nation's weapons programs. 803 00:40:58,767 --> 00:41:05,067 Corum: This facility that concentrates On britain's separate 804 00:41:05,067 --> 00:41:07,700 Nuclear development is Really no longer needed 805 00:41:07,700 --> 00:41:10,700 Because essentially the british Will work together with the 806 00:41:10,700 --> 00:41:10,735 Americans on nuclear weapons, Which is how it works today. 807 00:41:10,735 --> 00:41:11,000 Americans on nuclear weapons, Which is how it works today. 808 00:41:15,967 --> 00:41:21,067 Narrator: orford ness was Finally abandoned in 1987. 809 00:41:21,067 --> 00:41:26,667 * 810 00:41:26,667 --> 00:41:31,367 Today, the site is maintained By the british national trust 811 00:41:31,367 --> 00:41:36,067 As a peaceful nature reserve, 812 00:41:36,067 --> 00:41:40,735 But its explosive past Has left a dangerous legacy. 813 00:41:40,735 --> 00:41:41,000 But its explosive past Has left a dangerous legacy. 814 00:41:42,500 --> 00:41:46,067 Selwood: after so many decades Of weapons testing at that site, 815 00:41:46,067 --> 00:41:49,333 It's simply not possible to Guarantee that all devices 816 00:41:49,333 --> 00:41:52,267 Have been found. 817 00:41:52,267 --> 00:41:58,167 It is essentially impossible To ever clean it out. 818 00:41:58,167 --> 00:42:03,400 * 64507

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