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Narrator: a haunting facility
Saved from destruction
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By a remarkable
Hollywood connection.
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Puff: the same day that
The wrecking balls
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Came to tear this place down
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Was the same day that
The filming company showed up.
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Narrator:
Vast monolithic structures
That dominate a tiny island
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And speak of a brutal
Time in its past.
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What are these
Things doing in this
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Otherwise pristine landscape?
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Narrator: a mysterious island
Where compasses flicker
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And shrapnel scars its remains.
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And shrapnel scars its remains.
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All the structures that exist
Are riddled with bullet holes
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And signs of explosions.
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It's like you're walking
Through a war zone.
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Narrator:
Once, they were some of the most
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Advanced structures
And facilities on the planet.
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At the cutting edge
Of design and construction.
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Today, they stand abandoned,
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Contaminated,
And sometimes deadly.
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But who built them and how?
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And why were they abandoned?
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And why were they abandoned?
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-- captions by vitac --
Www.Vitac.Com
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Captions paid for by
Discovery communications
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*
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*
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In the center
Of the state of ohio,
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Just to the north
Of the city of mansfield
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Stands an ornate
Yet foreboding building.
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Stands an ornate
Yet foreboding building.
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*
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Gough: from the outside,
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It looks like some
Kind of palace
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Or even a castle.
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It appears to be
The kind of structure
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That you would create
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That would have
A lasting impression
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On anyone who set eyes on it.
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Meigs:
When you see this building,
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You know it was built
For something important.
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And clearly, whoever
Built it meant it to last.
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And clearly, whoever
Built it meant it to last.
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Selwood:
The building is vast and grand
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With very detailed
And fancy architecture.
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It's definitely
A statement piece.
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Meigs: it's built with this
Massive, massive stone,
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So clearly, it's not
A very inviting place.
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Gough:
Kind of gives you the shivers.
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It's sort of like
A haunted house
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And it definitely gives you
The impression
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That something bad
May have happened here.
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That something bad
May have happened here.
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Narrator:
Behind this impressive exterior
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Hides a dark secret.
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How can the interior
And exterior
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Be so catastrophically
Different?
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Gough: what it originally set
Out to do and what it ended up,
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Those bookends couldn't
Be further apart.
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Selwood: this was to be
A place of spiritual
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Regeneration and rebirth.
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Regeneration and rebirth.
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It's about salvation.
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This is a righteous building.
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Gough: and you have to imagine
That those who conceived it
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Had no idea what a horror story
Of a legacy they had spawned.
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*
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Narrator:
Why go to such lengths
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To build such a dramatic
And righteous structure?
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What was it used for
And why was it abandoned?
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*
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*
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The origins
Of this building's story
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Stretch back to the
Late 19th century.
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It was built in the mid-1880s
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As a beacon of
Hope for the state.
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Selwood: this site at mansfield
Was chosen in 1885
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For a very special reason,
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A very particular project.
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It was one that was going to
Be liberal and progressive.
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They wanted to take
Young offenders
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And rehabilitate
And reeducate them
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And rehabilitate
And reeducate them
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In the most positive
Way possible.
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Meigs:
It was a reformatory.
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00:04:07,933 --> 00:04:10,700
So the notion was, you
Weren't just punishing people.
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You were helping them learn,
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And then you would release
Them out in the world
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And they would
Commit crimes no more.
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Narrator: this is
The ohio state reformatory.
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With the first brick laid
In 1886,
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Soon after,
A stream of young offenders
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Soon after,
A stream of young offenders
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Were brought here to begin
Their rehabilitation.
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Meigs:
They started housing prisoners
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In the complex before
It was even finished,
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00:04:41,767 --> 00:04:43,867
And the prisoners themselves
Did a lot of the work
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00:04:43,867 --> 00:04:45,433
To complete the building,
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00:04:45,433 --> 00:04:49,067
Including building
The sewer system.
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00:04:53,267 --> 00:04:55,100
Narrator: not until 1910
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Was the reformatory
Finally complete.
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While the facility began life
With the best of intentions,
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While the facility began life
With the best of intentions,
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00:05:02,867 --> 00:05:05,233
Its stark interior
Reflects how this
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00:05:05,233 --> 00:05:08,067
Reformist zeal was soon replaced
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00:05:08,067 --> 00:05:11,433
With a more brutal approach
To life inside.
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Gough: the place had taken a
Completely different direction.
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00:05:20,833 --> 00:05:24,567
This was now a place
Not of rehabilitation,
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00:05:24,567 --> 00:05:27,733
But a place of incarceration
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Where you would
Lock up the baddies
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And throw away the key.
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And throw away the key.
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Narrator: this wing demonstrates
The new direction
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00:05:36,367 --> 00:05:42,800
The reformatory was taking,
As expert ron puff explains.
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Puff: we're currently in
The west cell block.
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The west cell block was a
Housing unit for your inmates.
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This has five tiers,
Originally 350 cells,
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Meant for one inmate to a cell.
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00:05:52,900 --> 00:05:54,733
Ended up from the very
Beginning with two inmates,
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So we housed 700 inmates here.
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00:05:56,733 --> 00:05:58,633
It wasn't so bad
Early on living here.
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00:05:58,633 --> 00:06:00,000
Now in later years,
They could be in their cells
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00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:00,467
Now in later years,
They could be in their cells
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00:06:00,467 --> 00:06:01,000
20, 22 hours a day.
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00:06:06,067 --> 00:06:07,867
Can you imagine being there?
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00:06:07,867 --> 00:06:12,400
Walking through those corridors
Into your caged cell,
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00:06:12,400 --> 00:06:13,967
And hearing
The sound of the door
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00:06:13,967 --> 00:06:18,333
Slammed and locked behind you.
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00:06:18,333 --> 00:06:21,733
And then the riotous sounds
Of other inmates.
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00:06:21,733 --> 00:06:26,500
It must have been
A terrifying existence.
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00:06:26,500 --> 00:06:28,433
Narrator:
Juveniles were increasingly
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00:06:28,433 --> 00:06:30,000
Incarcerated
Separately from adults,
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00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:30,867
Incarcerated
Separately from adults,
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00:06:30,867 --> 00:06:31,000
And societal changes
Dramatically altered
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00:06:34,233 --> 00:06:39,533
The character
And purpose of this facility.
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The boys were forced to leave.
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Puff: so they keep this
As an adult facility,
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00:06:46,267 --> 00:06:47,967
And all those
Juveniles have to go to
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00:06:47,967 --> 00:06:49,133
Another facility altogether,
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00:06:49,133 --> 00:06:52,300
And now you've got
A prison full of space.
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00:06:52,300 --> 00:06:55,267
What do you do with it?
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00:06:55,267 --> 00:06:57,833
Selwood: in wider society,
Evermore people were being
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00:06:57,833 --> 00:07:00,000
Convicted of increasingly
Violent crimes,
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00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:00,533
Convicted of increasingly
Violent crimes,
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00:07:00,533 --> 00:07:01,000
And prisons across the country
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00:07:02,733 --> 00:07:05,567
Were becoming overfilled
With inmates.
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00:07:05,567 --> 00:07:08,633
So, mansfield became
Just another prison.
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00:07:08,633 --> 00:07:11,467
In fact, it became one
Of the hardest prisons,
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00:07:11,467 --> 00:07:12,633
The worst of the worst,
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00:07:12,633 --> 00:07:14,333
With some of the most
Violent offenders
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00:07:14,333 --> 00:07:18,333
From around the country
Being kept there.
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00:07:18,333 --> 00:07:19,600
Narrator: over the years,
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00:07:19,600 --> 00:07:22,367
Conditions became
Evermore extreme
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00:07:22,367 --> 00:07:24,800
As the prison
Expanded and became
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A maximum-security facility.
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00:07:28,700 --> 00:07:30,000
As inmate numbers escalated,
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As inmate numbers escalated,
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00:07:31,100 --> 00:07:36,500
The depths of depravity
Grew to a whole new level.
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00:07:36,500 --> 00:07:40,767
Gough: violence was part
Of everyday life.
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00:07:40,767 --> 00:07:43,100
You could be beat up in a fight,
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You could be stabbed,
You could be mugged.
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You could be thrown off
A high walkway.
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I mean, the place was
Such that you were
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In fear of your life
Each and every day.
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Puff: inmates were told,
When you came here,
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Make yourself a weapon
And hide it in the backyard.
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00:07:58,667 --> 00:08:00,000
So if everything goes crazy,
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00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:00,500
So if everything goes crazy,
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00:08:00,500 --> 00:08:01,000
You at least know
Where your shank
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00:08:01,967 --> 00:08:03,300
Or your rock or whatever it is
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00:08:03,300 --> 00:08:07,567
You placed is so
You can be safe.
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And they feared coming
In the gates here.
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00:08:12,300 --> 00:08:13,667
Narrator:
This violence would lead
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00:08:13,667 --> 00:08:15,733
To its self-destruction.
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00:08:15,733 --> 00:08:18,333
But how would hollywood
Come to its rescue
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And save it from demolition?
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00:08:22,733 --> 00:08:23,000
*
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Narrator: despite starting
Out as a facility
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To rehabilitate young offenders,
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By the 1930s,
The ohio state reformatory
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Had become a brutal
Adult prison.
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One of the most frightening
Places to find yourself
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Was at the end
Of these dark corridors.
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A place no one wanted to be.
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A place no one wanted to be.
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Puff: for the worst offenders,
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There was solitary confinement
Here at the reformatory.
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When you came in here,
It was punishment.
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00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:02,267
And so, the whole
Time you were in here,
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You weren't supposed to talk.
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They might keep the lights on
24 hours a day.
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00:09:05,767 --> 00:09:07,867
They might keep the lights off
24 hours a day.
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00:09:07,867 --> 00:09:09,067
There was no reading.
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00:09:09,067 --> 00:09:10,867
Your meal schedule
Would be moved around
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00:09:10,867 --> 00:09:13,067
So you never knew
What time it was.
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00:09:13,067 --> 00:09:15,567
And so, early on, they came
In here with no clothes.
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00:09:15,567 --> 00:09:16,667
They were naked.
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00:09:16,667 --> 00:09:18,300
They had a bucket that
Was their commode.
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00:09:18,300 --> 00:09:20,900
They slept on the cement floor.
200
00:09:23,500 --> 00:09:25,400
Narrator:
A combination of violence,
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00:09:25,400 --> 00:09:28,200
Riots, and a spiraling
Population
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00:09:28,200 --> 00:09:31,333
Ensured that the hole,
As it was known,
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00:09:31,333 --> 00:09:36,067
Was crammed full of prisoners.
204
00:09:36,067 --> 00:09:38,067
Meigs:
In one case, they had a riot,
205
00:09:38,067 --> 00:09:40,767
And they wound up
Putting 120 prisoners
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00:09:40,767 --> 00:09:44,800
Down in the hole at
The same time for 30 days.
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00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:46,567
Gough: in this instance,
They actually found a body
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00:09:46,567 --> 00:09:49,167
That had been
Murdered and stuffed
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00:09:49,167 --> 00:09:50,967
Into a mattress for several days
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00:09:50,967 --> 00:09:52,368
Before anyone realized
He was dead.
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00:09:52,368 --> 00:09:53,000
Before anyone realized
He was dead.
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00:09:54,067 --> 00:09:57,267
Narrator:
Yet, endemic violence continued,
213
00:09:57,267 --> 00:10:02,333
Until in an unlikely twist,
The tables were turned.
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00:10:04,500 --> 00:10:07,133
Selwood:
Inmates finally took matters
Into their own hands,
215
00:10:07,133 --> 00:10:10,467
And they filed a lawsuit
That the facility was violating
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00:10:10,467 --> 00:10:13,733
Their constitutional rights
By dehumanizing them.
217
00:10:13,733 --> 00:10:16,167
In the end,
The problems at the site
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00:10:16,167 --> 00:10:18,467
Were so widespread
That it was all too much,
219
00:10:18,467 --> 00:10:22,368
And the facility was abandoned.
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00:10:22,368 --> 00:10:23,000
And the facility was abandoned.
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00:10:23,567 --> 00:10:26,400
Narrator:
In its 96-year history,
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00:10:26,400 --> 00:10:32,533
Over 150,000 inmates
Had walked through its doors.
223
00:10:32,533 --> 00:10:38,400
Over 200 of them died
On the inside.
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00:10:38,400 --> 00:10:40,133
Selwood: these days,
There are many accounts
225
00:10:40,133 --> 00:10:41,567
Of it being haunted,
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00:10:41,567 --> 00:10:44,367
Of there being paranormal
Activity at the site,
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00:10:44,367 --> 00:10:45,633
But that's hardly surprising
228
00:10:45,633 --> 00:10:48,000
When you think
Of the degree of violence
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00:10:48,000 --> 00:10:52,067
That the building
Had seen for so many decades.
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00:10:52,067 --> 00:10:52,368
Puff: is the ohio state
Reformatory haunted?
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00:10:52,368 --> 00:10:53,000
Puff: is the ohio state
Reformatory haunted?
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00:10:54,833 --> 00:10:57,333
And if you ask a number
Of our staff members,
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00:10:57,333 --> 00:10:58,700
They will say yes.
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00:10:58,700 --> 00:11:00,300
They'll snap their fingers
Just like that.
235
00:11:00,300 --> 00:11:02,633
Me?
Things happen here.
236
00:11:02,633 --> 00:11:05,633
Why?
I'll let you figure it out.
237
00:11:05,633 --> 00:11:11,067
*
238
00:11:11,067 --> 00:11:13,500
Narrator:
Today, this grand facility
239
00:11:13,500 --> 00:11:16,467
Has become
A major tourist attraction,
240
00:11:16,467 --> 00:11:17,800
In no small part,
241
00:11:17,800 --> 00:11:22,300
Thanks to an extraordinary
Twist of fate.
242
00:11:22,300 --> 00:11:22,368
Meigs:
It was scheduled for demolition.
243
00:11:22,368 --> 00:11:23,000
Meigs:
It was scheduled for demolition.
244
00:11:24,733 --> 00:11:26,100
But just before that,
245
00:11:26,100 --> 00:11:28,333
A film crew came
To shoot a movie that,
246
00:11:28,333 --> 00:11:30,500
Of course, has
Become world famous,
247
00:11:30,500 --> 00:11:33,300
"The shawshank redemption."
248
00:11:33,300 --> 00:11:35,500
Puff: the same day that
The wrecking balls
249
00:11:35,500 --> 00:11:37,367
Came to tear this place down
250
00:11:37,367 --> 00:11:42,467
Was the same day that
The filming company showed up.
251
00:11:42,467 --> 00:11:46,667
"The shawshank redemption" was
The redemption of this prison.
252
00:11:46,667 --> 00:11:52,368
*
253
00:11:52,368 --> 00:11:53,000
*
254
00:11:53,633 --> 00:11:56,733
Narrator: just off the coast
Of normandy in france
255
00:11:56,733 --> 00:12:00,200
Is the small british island
Of guernsey.
256
00:12:00,200 --> 00:12:01,900
Looming over its coastline
257
00:12:01,900 --> 00:12:05,333
Are bizarre looking
Constructions.
258
00:12:08,767 --> 00:12:12,433
Bell: in the otherwise quiet
And picturesque surroundings,
259
00:12:12,433 --> 00:12:14,500
You start to discover actually
260
00:12:14,500 --> 00:12:19,400
A huge amount of these
Concrete, imposing structures.
261
00:12:20,833 --> 00:12:22,368
Nusbacher:
The way that these concrete
Monoliths are stacked,
262
00:12:22,368 --> 00:12:23,000
Nusbacher:
The way that these concrete
Monoliths are stacked,
263
00:12:25,700 --> 00:12:31,633
They look a bit like the
Heads off of easter island.
264
00:12:31,633 --> 00:12:36,133
Jerram: it's like "Star wars"
Has been filmed there.
265
00:12:36,133 --> 00:12:38,967
These really strange
Almost monolith type
266
00:12:38,967 --> 00:12:43,333
Constructions poking
Out of the ground.
267
00:12:43,333 --> 00:12:44,767
Narrator: further inland,
268
00:12:44,767 --> 00:12:49,667
A cavernous concrete bowl
Lies sunken into the ground.
269
00:12:49,667 --> 00:12:52,368
It's huge.
It's like an amphitheater.
270
00:12:52,368 --> 00:12:53,000
It's huge.
It's like an amphitheater.
271
00:12:53,800 --> 00:12:57,833
I don't think
The locals would have ever
272
00:12:57,833 --> 00:13:01,600
Envisaged structures like this
Being built on the island.
273
00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:04,967
*
274
00:13:04,967 --> 00:13:07,567
Narrator: beneath this
Monumental mass of concrete
275
00:13:07,567 --> 00:13:13,233
Lurk other hidden features.
276
00:13:13,233 --> 00:13:15,500
Jerram:
There's a railway track that
277
00:13:15,500 --> 00:13:18,400
Starts to lead
You into a tunnel.
278
00:13:18,400 --> 00:13:20,800
And when you follow
That tunnel inside,
279
00:13:20,800 --> 00:13:22,368
You start going underground.
280
00:13:22,368 --> 00:13:23,000
You start going underground.
281
00:13:25,867 --> 00:13:27,467
When you get closer,
You see that there's
282
00:13:27,467 --> 00:13:28,667
Actually a lot more to them.
283
00:13:28,667 --> 00:13:30,833
There's networks
And you start to
284
00:13:30,833 --> 00:13:34,067
Kind of see old paraphernalia.
285
00:13:34,067 --> 00:13:36,133
Narrator: in amongst the maze
Of dark rooms
286
00:13:36,133 --> 00:13:38,133
And mysterious symbols,
287
00:13:38,133 --> 00:13:41,700
Writing emerges
Out of the darkness.
288
00:13:41,700 --> 00:13:43,967
But these are not english.
289
00:13:43,967 --> 00:13:47,167
Surprisingly,
They are written in german,
290
00:13:47,167 --> 00:13:50,167
And they hint
At the wretched fate
291
00:13:50,167 --> 00:13:52,368
That befell
Their former occupants.
292
00:13:52,368 --> 00:13:53,000
That befell
Their former occupants.
293
00:13:53,667 --> 00:13:57,200
Things started
To get really tough.
294
00:13:57,200 --> 00:14:00,933
In fact, many of them
Began to starve.
295
00:14:00,933 --> 00:14:04,800
*
296
00:14:04,800 --> 00:14:08,800
Narrator: who decided to invest
In these gigantic structures,
297
00:14:08,800 --> 00:14:12,300
And why were they
Finally abandoned?
298
00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:15,000
*
299
00:14:20,067 --> 00:14:23,400
Narrator: on the small
British island of guernsey,
300
00:14:23,400 --> 00:14:27,267
Colossal concrete structures
Dominate the land.
301
00:14:27,267 --> 00:14:32,133
How are they all connected,
And why were they abandoned?
302
00:14:32,133 --> 00:14:36,567
*
303
00:14:36,567 --> 00:14:39,500
The roots of this
Mystery can be found
304
00:14:39,500 --> 00:14:44,386
In the early years
Of world war ii.
305
00:14:44,386 --> 00:14:44,733
In the early years
Of world war ii.
306
00:14:44,733 --> 00:14:45,000
By june 1940,
Hitler had crushed france
307
00:14:48,500 --> 00:14:49,833
And was turning his attention
308
00:14:49,833 --> 00:14:56,133
To his next target,
Great britain.
309
00:14:56,133 --> 00:15:00,833
Lying just 20 miles away
Across the english channel,
310
00:15:00,833 --> 00:15:03,833
Great britain
Was tantalizingly close,
311
00:15:03,833 --> 00:15:08,167
But a small piece of british
Territory lay even closer.
312
00:15:08,167 --> 00:15:11,133
The channel islands.
313
00:15:11,133 --> 00:15:13,267
Bell:
Although the channel islands
Are british territory,
314
00:15:13,267 --> 00:15:14,386
They're actually must closer
To the coast of france.
315
00:15:14,386 --> 00:15:15,000
They're actually must closer
To the coast of france.
316
00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:20,967
And hitler viewed them
As strategically important.
317
00:15:20,967 --> 00:15:25,800
Nusbacher:
If you want to go from
Britain and invade france,
318
00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:30,200
The channel islands
Are a great first step.
319
00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:32,100
They get you most
Of the way there,
320
00:15:32,100 --> 00:15:36,467
And the nazis could not allow
The british
321
00:15:36,467 --> 00:15:39,933
To continue to control
Those islands
322
00:15:39,933 --> 00:15:42,600
Right on the edge of france.
323
00:15:42,600 --> 00:15:44,386
Narrator:
On the 28th of june, 1940,
324
00:15:44,386 --> 00:15:45,000
Narrator:
On the 28th of june, 1940,
325
00:15:46,833 --> 00:15:52,433
The luftwaffe bombers came
Swooping in over the islands.
326
00:15:52,433 --> 00:15:54,067
Jerram:
A tragedy within the war
327
00:15:54,067 --> 00:15:55,633
Was the fact that
The germans essentially
328
00:15:55,633 --> 00:15:57,133
Bombed the channel islands,
329
00:15:57,133 --> 00:15:59,400
Expecting there to be
Quite a lot of resistance.
330
00:15:59,400 --> 00:16:04,433
They killed about 44 people
And they didn't need to do that.
331
00:16:04,433 --> 00:16:05,867
Bell:
It was only a few days later
332
00:16:05,867 --> 00:16:07,833
When the germans
Actually arrived.
333
00:16:07,833 --> 00:16:09,633
They discovered
That the islands had been
334
00:16:09,633 --> 00:16:12,533
Undefended the whole time.
335
00:16:12,533 --> 00:16:14,386
[ bell tolling ]
336
00:16:14,386 --> 00:16:15,000
[ bell tolling ]
337
00:16:16,633 --> 00:16:20,600
Nusbacher: in 1940, britain
Was standing alone
338
00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:23,167
Against the power
Of the third reich,
339
00:16:23,167 --> 00:16:25,833
And churchill was not sure
340
00:16:25,833 --> 00:16:30,067
He could defend
The island of great britain,
341
00:16:30,067 --> 00:16:35,100
Never mind guernsey,
Jersey, sark, and alderney.
342
00:16:35,100 --> 00:16:36,467
Narrator:
While churchill viewed
343
00:16:36,467 --> 00:16:38,267
The islands as expendable,
344
00:16:38,267 --> 00:16:41,333
Hitler had other ideas.
345
00:16:41,333 --> 00:16:43,533
He desperately
Wanted them fortified
346
00:16:43,533 --> 00:16:44,386
With the most
Impressive defenses
347
00:16:44,386 --> 00:16:45,000
With the most
Impressive defenses
348
00:16:45,633 --> 00:16:50,667
The third reich could create.
349
00:16:50,667 --> 00:16:55,667
Here on guernsey,
This was part of their answer.
350
00:16:55,667 --> 00:17:01,367
The mighty mp3 tower.
351
00:17:01,367 --> 00:17:05,233
Local expert and
Preservationist paul bourgaize
352
00:17:05,233 --> 00:17:09,933
Explains how the tower
Fitted into the nazis' plan.
353
00:17:09,933 --> 00:17:12,467
Bourgaize: it was basically
A range-finding tower.
354
00:17:12,467 --> 00:17:14,200
It was one of five.
355
00:17:14,200 --> 00:17:14,386
And each level had range
Fighting capabilities
356
00:17:14,386 --> 00:17:15,000
And each level had range
Fighting capabilities
357
00:17:16,633 --> 00:17:19,167
To obviously
Find and observe targets
358
00:17:19,167 --> 00:17:24,600
And send the data back
To the gun batteries inland.
359
00:17:24,600 --> 00:17:26,867
Narrator:
The germans spent over a year
360
00:17:26,867 --> 00:17:29,067
Building up their
Extensive network
361
00:17:29,067 --> 00:17:34,667
Of defenses on guernsey.
362
00:17:34,667 --> 00:17:39,300
Located a few miles inland
From the mp3 range tower,
363
00:17:39,300 --> 00:17:41,500
This immense concrete bowl
364
00:17:41,500 --> 00:17:44,386
Was to be one of its
Most important features.
365
00:17:44,386 --> 00:17:44,867
Was to be one of its
Most important features.
366
00:17:47,567 --> 00:17:51,467
But what was it used for?
367
00:17:51,467 --> 00:17:56,567
A clue is the rail tracks
That snake underground.
368
00:17:58,467 --> 00:18:00,600
Bourgaize: this little railway
Track was used
369
00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:05,167
To bring the ammunition
From the storage bunkers,
370
00:18:05,167 --> 00:18:10,367
And they would be stored
In this large room here,
371
00:18:10,367 --> 00:18:11,700
And these would
Be loaded through
372
00:18:11,700 --> 00:18:14,386
This flash proof hatch
And then stored in that room.
373
00:18:14,386 --> 00:18:15,000
This flash proof hatch
And then stored in that room.
374
00:18:16,767 --> 00:18:20,333
Narrator: more than
61,000 cubic yards of concrete
375
00:18:20,333 --> 00:18:24,333
Were consumed
By these bunker systems.
376
00:18:24,333 --> 00:18:26,167
They contained troop quarters,
377
00:18:26,167 --> 00:18:30,333
Ammunition storage,
And electrical generators,
378
00:18:30,333 --> 00:18:36,067
All built to withstand
An immense amount of firepower.
379
00:18:36,067 --> 00:18:37,967
And deep in the darkness,
380
00:18:37,967 --> 00:18:40,400
Slogans on
The walls indicate that
381
00:18:40,400 --> 00:18:43,567
This structure was
Built with a real sense
382
00:18:43,567 --> 00:18:44,386
Of pride and optimism.
383
00:18:44,386 --> 00:18:45,000
Of pride and optimism.
384
00:18:48,133 --> 00:18:50,167
Bourgaize:
You can see one side,
385
00:18:50,167 --> 00:18:54,367
We've got a large german
Eagle painted on the wall.
386
00:18:54,367 --> 00:18:56,233
And over on this side,
387
00:18:56,233 --> 00:19:00,133
The emblem of
The naval engineers.
388
00:19:00,133 --> 00:19:02,900
Then it's called, and we're
Marching towards england.
389
00:19:02,900 --> 00:19:05,333
That was the motto.
390
00:19:05,333 --> 00:19:08,967
Nusbacher:
"Wir fahren nach england."
391
00:19:08,967 --> 00:19:10,533
We are going to england.
392
00:19:10,533 --> 00:19:14,386
The germans intended
To invade england.
393
00:19:14,386 --> 00:19:14,600
The germans intended
To invade england.
394
00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:15,000
Why would they be
Painting that on a bunker?
395
00:19:19,733 --> 00:19:21,100
Narrator:
This german confidence
396
00:19:21,100 --> 00:19:24,067
May have been due
To what was housed
397
00:19:24,067 --> 00:19:27,700
In the huge concrete bowl --
398
00:19:27,700 --> 00:19:30,700
A behemoth of a gun.
399
00:19:30,700 --> 00:19:35,067
This bunker complex
Was called batterie mirus.
400
00:19:35,067 --> 00:19:37,933
*
401
00:19:37,933 --> 00:19:40,433
Bell: it consisted
Of four gun emplacements
402
00:19:40,433 --> 00:19:44,386
With huge great big guns
Disguised as houses.
403
00:19:44,386 --> 00:19:45,000
With huge great big guns
Disguised as houses.
404
00:19:45,267 --> 00:19:48,067
You can start to imagine
The size
405
00:19:48,067 --> 00:19:51,067
And the scale of these guns.
406
00:19:54,800 --> 00:19:57,200
Here we are,
We can see one of the four
407
00:19:57,200 --> 00:20:02,100
Huge emplacements
For the 30.5 centimeter gun.
408
00:20:02,100 --> 00:20:04,033
Mounted there
On that central position
409
00:20:04,033 --> 00:20:07,100
Where those studs
Are sticking up.
410
00:20:07,100 --> 00:20:11,633
Underneath the mount
Was a naval depth charge.
411
00:20:11,633 --> 00:20:13,667
And that could've been detonated
In the event that
412
00:20:13,667 --> 00:20:14,386
The emplacement was captured,
413
00:20:14,386 --> 00:20:15,000
The emplacement was captured,
414
00:20:16,867 --> 00:20:18,700
And blow the gun
Off its mountings.
415
00:20:18,700 --> 00:20:23,867
*
416
00:20:23,867 --> 00:20:26,067
Narrator:
What event led to desperate
417
00:20:26,067 --> 00:20:28,567
Starvation at this facility,
418
00:20:28,567 --> 00:20:33,100
And why did the soldiers
Eventually abandon this site?
419
00:20:34,500 --> 00:20:35,000
*
420
00:20:40,700 --> 00:20:42,600
Narrator: on the british island
Of guernsey
421
00:20:42,600 --> 00:20:50,100
Lies the wreckage of a
Formidable nazi artillery site.
422
00:20:50,100 --> 00:20:52,833
With a range of over 30 miles,
423
00:20:52,833 --> 00:20:55,500
The four guns could
Protect the channel islands
424
00:20:55,500 --> 00:21:01,300
And reach almost all
The way to the normandy coast.
425
00:21:01,300 --> 00:21:04,199
Guernsey's firepower
Was devastating.
426
00:21:04,199 --> 00:21:04,967
Guernsey's firepower
Was devastating.
427
00:21:04,967 --> 00:21:05,000
In total, there were
17 coastal artillery batteries,
428
00:21:09,333 --> 00:21:15,367
And 175 anti-aircraft guns
On the island,
429
00:21:15,367 --> 00:21:20,800
But their construction consumed
An enormous amount of resources.
430
00:21:20,800 --> 00:21:23,533
Jerram: this was part
Of the atlantic wall,
431
00:21:23,533 --> 00:21:26,367
Which stretched all the way
From norway down to spain.
432
00:21:26,367 --> 00:21:28,533
And it's estimated
That some 8% percent
433
00:21:28,533 --> 00:21:29,733
Of all of the concrete along
434
00:21:29,733 --> 00:21:31,500
All of those
Constructions was just
435
00:21:31,500 --> 00:21:34,199
Housed in the channel islands.
436
00:21:34,199 --> 00:21:34,367
Housed in the channel islands.
437
00:21:34,367 --> 00:21:35,000
In fact, they fortified
The channel islands so much
438
00:21:38,067 --> 00:21:40,433
That there were more guns
Installed here
439
00:21:40,433 --> 00:21:41,833
Than there were
On the neighboring
440
00:21:41,833 --> 00:21:46,467
600 miles of normandy coastline.
441
00:21:46,467 --> 00:21:49,267
Nusbacher: german officers
Who were skeptical
442
00:21:49,267 --> 00:21:52,533
About the strategic
And operational
443
00:21:52,533 --> 00:21:55,467
Value of the channel islands
444
00:21:55,467 --> 00:22:00,733
Refer to the dense resource
Intensive fortifications
445
00:22:00,733 --> 00:22:04,199
As "Hitler's island madness."
446
00:22:04,199 --> 00:22:05,000
As "Hitler's island madness."
447
00:22:05,567 --> 00:22:10,800
Narrator: but why was
Batterie mirus abandoned?
448
00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:13,300
Were its guns blown off
Their mountings,
449
00:22:13,300 --> 00:22:18,600
Or was the incredible
Structure never finished?
450
00:22:18,600 --> 00:22:24,533
The beginning of
The end was june 6, 1944.
451
00:22:24,533 --> 00:22:29,133
D-day and the allied
Invasion of france.
452
00:22:31,933 --> 00:22:34,199
After the d-day landings,
The german soldiers based
453
00:22:34,199 --> 00:22:35,000
After the d-day landings,
The german soldiers based
454
00:22:35,133 --> 00:22:38,067
In the channel islands
Became cut off
455
00:22:38,067 --> 00:22:42,700
And had no access to supplies.
456
00:22:42,700 --> 00:22:44,233
There were red cross packages
457
00:22:44,233 --> 00:22:45,733
Delivered onto the islands,
458
00:22:45,733 --> 00:22:48,600
But they were for locals
Only, for the british.
459
00:22:48,600 --> 00:22:52,700
The germans had to go without.
460
00:22:52,700 --> 00:22:54,067
Bourgaize: the troops themselves
That weren't
461
00:22:54,067 --> 00:22:57,267
Allowed those rations
Were really starving.
462
00:22:57,267 --> 00:23:01,100
They were trying to catch birds,
463
00:23:01,100 --> 00:23:04,199
Eating limpets off
The beach, anything, seaweed.
464
00:23:04,199 --> 00:23:04,700
Eating limpets off
The beach, anything, seaweed.
465
00:23:04,700 --> 00:23:05,000
And some things even
Making themselves sick.
466
00:23:07,333 --> 00:23:09,667
Eating things that really they
Shouldn't have been eating,
467
00:23:09,667 --> 00:23:12,767
Just to stay alive.
468
00:23:12,767 --> 00:23:15,700
Narrator:
After almost a year of hunger,
469
00:23:15,700 --> 00:23:18,667
The german garrison finally
Surrendered guernsey
470
00:23:18,667 --> 00:23:24,200
On may 9, 1945.
471
00:23:24,200 --> 00:23:26,733
Batterie mirus fell silent,
472
00:23:26,733 --> 00:23:30,067
And its colossal guns
Were sold off for scrap.
473
00:23:30,067 --> 00:23:34,199
*
474
00:23:34,199 --> 00:23:35,000
*
475
00:23:38,367 --> 00:23:41,767
Today, these
Other worldly concrete
476
00:23:41,767 --> 00:23:44,100
Structures of the third reich
477
00:23:44,100 --> 00:23:47,233
Still dominate
The guernsey skyline,
478
00:23:47,233 --> 00:23:49,967
And recall a time
When these islands
479
00:23:49,967 --> 00:23:56,867
Became the most fortified
Place on earth.
480
00:23:56,867 --> 00:24:00,733
Nusbacher:
Looking at these massive
Concrete fortifications,
481
00:24:00,733 --> 00:24:04,167
It reminds us that
Even tiny corners of europe
482
00:24:04,167 --> 00:24:04,199
That we barely even heard of
483
00:24:04,199 --> 00:24:05,000
That we barely even heard of
484
00:24:07,067 --> 00:24:09,167
Were really important
To some people
485
00:24:09,167 --> 00:24:12,433
And to their lives as they lived
Through the second world war.
486
00:24:12,433 --> 00:24:18,767
*
487
00:24:18,767 --> 00:24:20,533
Narrator:
In southern finland,
488
00:24:20,533 --> 00:24:22,833
On the edge of the baltic sea,
489
00:24:22,833 --> 00:24:26,933
Is what's known locally
As the mysterious island.
490
00:24:26,933 --> 00:24:33,067
*
491
00:24:33,067 --> 00:24:34,199
Meigs: from a distance,
It looks like other
492
00:24:34,199 --> 00:24:35,000
Meigs: from a distance,
It looks like other
493
00:24:35,700 --> 00:24:37,900
Islands in the region.
494
00:24:37,900 --> 00:24:39,900
When you get closer,
495
00:24:39,900 --> 00:24:42,600
You can see there's
Something different about it.
496
00:24:42,600 --> 00:24:46,233
Jerram: the island itself has
A kind of darkness.
497
00:24:46,233 --> 00:24:49,967
Everything's
A little bit spooky.
498
00:24:49,967 --> 00:24:51,167
And you wouldn't
Necessarily want
499
00:24:51,167 --> 00:24:54,067
To find yourself
On the island alone.
500
00:24:56,333 --> 00:24:59,067
Narrator: compasses flicker
Out of control.
501
00:24:59,067 --> 00:25:01,367
Beaches are stained black.
502
00:25:01,367 --> 00:25:04,199
And as you approach,
Things get even stranger.
503
00:25:04,199 --> 00:25:05,000
And as you approach,
Things get even stranger.
504
00:25:08,067 --> 00:25:10,733
Meigs: you can spot what
Looks like bunkers
505
00:25:10,733 --> 00:25:14,700
Hidden along the shoreline,
Ruins of old pipelines,
506
00:25:14,700 --> 00:25:18,633
Piles of broken up
Rock and concrete.
507
00:25:18,633 --> 00:25:22,333
This isn't an ordinary island.
508
00:25:22,333 --> 00:25:24,500
Jerram: the island itself
Is also riddled
509
00:25:24,500 --> 00:25:27,767
With some ancient history
About tales of
510
00:25:27,767 --> 00:25:31,333
Compasses not working
Quite correctly.
511
00:25:31,333 --> 00:25:34,199
Meigs: there have been a whole
History of shipwrecks.
512
00:25:34,199 --> 00:25:35,000
Meigs: there have been a whole
History of shipwrecks.
513
00:25:35,600 --> 00:25:37,200
Narrator:
Wreckage and destruction
514
00:25:37,200 --> 00:25:40,067
Is not confined to the waters.
515
00:25:40,067 --> 00:25:44,700
On land too,
The carnage continues.
516
00:25:44,700 --> 00:25:48,433
Meigs:
All the structures that exist
Are riddled with bullet holes
517
00:25:48,433 --> 00:25:49,667
And signs of explosions.
518
00:25:49,667 --> 00:25:53,067
It's like you're walking
Through a war zone.
519
00:25:53,067 --> 00:25:54,700
Jerram: what is the problem
With this place?
520
00:25:54,700 --> 00:25:56,533
Why is it so odd?
521
00:25:56,533 --> 00:26:01,700
*
522
00:26:01,700 --> 00:26:04,199
The answers
To this peculiar puzzle
523
00:26:04,199 --> 00:26:04,367
The answers
To this peculiar puzzle
524
00:26:04,367 --> 00:26:05,000
Can be found back in
The early 19th century.
525
00:26:09,233 --> 00:26:13,067
By 1809, finland had
Been incorporated
526
00:26:13,067 --> 00:26:14,833
Into the russian empire,
527
00:26:14,833 --> 00:26:20,733
And this was
A strategically vital site.
528
00:26:20,733 --> 00:26:22,700
Jussaro island.
529
00:26:26,533 --> 00:26:29,467
Corum:
The southern part of finland
Is very important to russia
530
00:26:29,467 --> 00:26:34,199
Because that is the gate to
The capital at st. Petersburg.
531
00:26:34,199 --> 00:26:34,700
Because that is the gate to
The capital at st. Petersburg.
532
00:26:34,700 --> 00:26:35,000
And so, controlling
The gulf of finland
533
00:26:37,433 --> 00:26:43,433
Is an absolute defense
Requirement for russia.
534
00:26:43,433 --> 00:26:45,467
Meigs: it sits in such
A strategic location
535
00:26:45,467 --> 00:26:46,900
In the baltic sea.
536
00:26:46,900 --> 00:26:49,400
Anybody trying to
Head to helsinki
537
00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:51,367
Or the port of st. Petersburg
In russia
538
00:26:51,367 --> 00:26:53,533
Has to sail right
By that island.
539
00:26:53,533 --> 00:26:57,833
That makes it very valuable
From a military perspective.
540
00:26:57,833 --> 00:27:03,300
Narrator: it's strategic,
But also extremely dangerous.
541
00:27:03,300 --> 00:27:04,199
In the glacial periods,
542
00:27:04,199 --> 00:27:04,467
In the glacial periods,
543
00:27:04,467 --> 00:27:05,000
Jerram: it was covered under
Kilometers of ice.
544
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:08,067
It was pushed down.
545
00:27:08,067 --> 00:27:09,200
Since the ice is gone,
546
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:11,500
The area is actually
Slowly lifting,
547
00:27:11,500 --> 00:27:14,833
About four millimeters a year.
548
00:27:14,833 --> 00:27:17,067
Meigs: so you might sail
Past a place that
549
00:27:17,067 --> 00:27:19,300
50 years ago was free sailing,
550
00:27:19,300 --> 00:27:22,967
And now, there's
A rocky island emerging
551
00:27:22,967 --> 00:27:25,733
Right in your path.
552
00:27:25,733 --> 00:27:27,067
Narrator: under russian rule,
553
00:27:27,067 --> 00:27:30,200
A pilot station
Was quickly set up here
554
00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:33,333
To help ships navigate
These precarious waters
555
00:27:33,333 --> 00:27:34,199
Through to st. Petersburg.
556
00:27:34,199 --> 00:27:35,000
Through to st. Petersburg.
557
00:27:36,267 --> 00:27:39,633
But why do the remnants
Of an extensive complex
558
00:27:39,633 --> 00:27:43,433
Litter this remote outpost?
559
00:27:43,433 --> 00:27:45,767
An underground discovery
Quickly grabbed
560
00:27:45,767 --> 00:27:50,233
The interest
Of the russian state.
561
00:27:50,233 --> 00:27:52,733
Somara:
It turns out to have
Been an amazing find
562
00:27:52,733 --> 00:27:54,667
Because it was the
Largest undersea
563
00:27:54,667 --> 00:27:58,933
Iron ore reserve in finland.
564
00:27:58,933 --> 00:28:01,400
Narrator: this explains
The centuries old mystery
565
00:28:01,400 --> 00:28:04,199
Of why ships' compasses
Work so badly here.
566
00:28:04,199 --> 00:28:05,000
Of why ships' compasses
Work so badly here.
567
00:28:07,133 --> 00:28:09,100
Somara:
Compasses work by being drawn
568
00:28:09,100 --> 00:28:10,633
To the magnetic field
Of the north pole,
569
00:28:10,633 --> 00:28:15,233
But the iron ore
In this particular region
570
00:28:15,233 --> 00:28:16,667
Had its own magnetic field,
571
00:28:16,667 --> 00:28:18,267
And compasses were
More drawn to that
572
00:28:18,267 --> 00:28:22,767
Than the north pole.
573
00:28:22,767 --> 00:28:24,533
Narrator:
Did finland come to blows
574
00:28:24,533 --> 00:28:26,967
With their mighty
Russian rulers?
575
00:28:26,967 --> 00:28:30,267
Does this explain
The site's destruction?
576
00:28:33,067 --> 00:28:38,200
*
577
00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:39,900
Narrator:
On the southern tip of finland
578
00:28:39,900 --> 00:28:45,100
Sits the iron-rich
Island of jussaro.
579
00:28:45,100 --> 00:28:49,133
In the 1840s, russian prisoners
Were shipped to its mine
580
00:28:49,133 --> 00:28:55,733
And forced to excavate
The valuable metal ore.
581
00:28:55,733 --> 00:28:57,100
Meigs:
The miners were down there
582
00:28:57,100 --> 00:29:00,300
With long metal drills
And sledgehammers,
583
00:29:00,300 --> 00:29:02,744
Banging away, dislodging
The rock face bit by bit.
584
00:29:02,744 --> 00:29:03,000
Banging away, dislodging
The rock face bit by bit.
585
00:29:06,067 --> 00:29:08,233
And the conditions
Were so hellish,
586
00:29:08,233 --> 00:29:09,500
Some of the prisoners reported
587
00:29:09,500 --> 00:29:14,633
They would rather be sent
To labor camps in siberia.
588
00:29:14,633 --> 00:29:17,233
Narrator: by the time finland
Declared independence
589
00:29:17,233 --> 00:29:23,467
From russia in 1917, mining
On the island had stopped.
590
00:29:23,467 --> 00:29:26,567
During the following
Decades, the young nation's
591
00:29:26,567 --> 00:29:30,067
Relationship with its
Communist neighbor was marked
592
00:29:30,067 --> 00:29:32,733
By tension and war.
593
00:29:32,733 --> 00:29:32,744
By the 1950s, however,
Finland had settled into an
594
00:29:32,744 --> 00:29:33,000
By the 1950s, however,
Finland had settled into an
595
00:29:36,333 --> 00:29:42,633
Uneasy existence between
The west and the soviet union.
596
00:29:42,633 --> 00:29:48,667
In these tense political times,
Mining at jussaro began again.
597
00:29:48,667 --> 00:29:51,733
Finland reopened the mines,
And now they had modern
598
00:29:51,733 --> 00:29:54,667
Equipment and they could
Mine on a much greater,
599
00:29:54,667 --> 00:29:57,633
More industrial scale.
600
00:29:57,633 --> 00:30:00,067
Narrator: does this explain
The extensive complex
601
00:30:00,067 --> 00:30:02,233
Of buildings here?
602
00:30:02,233 --> 00:30:02,744
Do the bunkers on the coastline
Speak of russian aggression?
603
00:30:02,744 --> 00:30:03,000
Do the bunkers on the coastline
Speak of russian aggression?
604
00:30:08,033 --> 00:30:10,967
When mining started back up
Again, they had to put in
605
00:30:10,967 --> 00:30:16,833
A whole new infrastructure,
Which included crushing plants,
606
00:30:16,833 --> 00:30:17,933
Underwater railway lines,
607
00:30:17,933 --> 00:30:21,900
Pipe networks on land,
Deep tunnels.
608
00:30:21,900 --> 00:30:25,633
I mean, it became
A productive mining machine.
609
00:30:25,633 --> 00:30:29,533
*
610
00:30:29,533 --> 00:30:32,300
Narrator: former resident,
Goran wikstrom,
611
00:30:32,300 --> 00:30:32,744
Arrived in 1956,
612
00:30:32,744 --> 00:30:33,000
Arrived in 1956,
613
00:30:35,100 --> 00:30:40,500
As modern mining operations
Were being prepared.
614
00:30:40,500 --> 00:30:42,667
Interpreter: the tunnel went
Straight out from here
615
00:30:42,667 --> 00:30:45,233
To the stone island.
616
00:30:45,233 --> 00:30:47,767
The tunnel went straight out
From there from the shaft
617
00:30:47,767 --> 00:30:51,367
Above at a depth of 550 feet.
618
00:30:51,367 --> 00:30:54,667
Out there it was mining
Tunnels, in total,
619
00:30:54,667 --> 00:31:00,300
1.8 miles of tunnels all
At a depth of nearly 600 feet.
620
00:31:02,467 --> 00:31:02,744
Narrator:
However, mining on the island
621
00:31:02,744 --> 00:31:03,000
Narrator:
However, mining on the island
622
00:31:05,133 --> 00:31:09,467
Once again proved unsustainable.
623
00:31:09,467 --> 00:31:13,367
Global iron prices were
Plummeting, and profits did not
624
00:31:13,367 --> 00:31:17,067
Justify continuing operations.
625
00:31:17,067 --> 00:31:22,500
The workers were sent packing.
626
00:31:22,500 --> 00:31:26,700
Interpreter:
It was at christmas in 1967
When the final decision
627
00:31:26,700 --> 00:31:30,067
Was made that everyone
Was to leave here.
628
00:31:30,067 --> 00:31:31,533
It was over, in other words.
629
00:31:31,533 --> 00:31:32,744
We just moved out, and then
The destruction set in.
630
00:31:32,744 --> 00:31:33,000
We just moved out, and then
The destruction set in.
631
00:31:35,700 --> 00:31:39,800
*
632
00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:44,067
But what caused
This carnage and destruction?
633
00:31:44,067 --> 00:31:47,100
The damage here is not
Simply down to nature
634
00:31:47,100 --> 00:31:50,600
And the elements.
635
00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:54,900
Meigs:
After the miners moved out,
The finnish army moved in.
636
00:31:54,900 --> 00:31:58,767
The government realized this
Location was just too strategic
637
00:31:58,767 --> 00:32:01,500
To leave unoccupied.
638
00:32:01,500 --> 00:32:02,744
The 60s, 70s, and 80s,
Yes, there was a very genuine
639
00:32:02,744 --> 00:32:03,000
The 60s, 70s, and 80s,
Yes, there was a very genuine
640
00:32:05,067 --> 00:32:07,367
Threat from the soviet union.
641
00:32:07,367 --> 00:32:10,400
They were pretty careful
To be pretty conciliatory
642
00:32:10,400 --> 00:32:12,433
To russia during
Much of that period.
643
00:32:12,433 --> 00:32:14,933
But a lot of the use
Of the island was really
644
00:32:14,933 --> 00:32:18,767
For training
And military exercises.
645
00:32:18,767 --> 00:32:22,733
And it was a place where
They could fire weapons
646
00:32:22,733 --> 00:32:27,267
And drop bombs without any
Danger of injuring the civilian
647
00:32:27,267 --> 00:32:30,967
Population, because there
Was no civilian population.
648
00:32:30,967 --> 00:32:32,744
Narrator:
The russian invasion never came.
649
00:32:32,744 --> 00:32:33,000
Narrator:
The russian invasion never came.
650
00:32:34,167 --> 00:32:39,100
In 2002, the armed forces held
Their last shooting drill,
651
00:32:39,100 --> 00:32:43,867
And the island was then
Abandoned once again.
652
00:32:43,867 --> 00:32:49,367
*
653
00:32:49,367 --> 00:32:53,733
Today, the battered site
Serves as a national park,
654
00:32:53,733 --> 00:33:00,067
With half the island
Open to the public.
655
00:33:00,067 --> 00:33:02,744
Jerram: it's a smorgasbord
Of mining and militarization.
656
00:33:02,744 --> 00:33:03,000
Jerram: it's a smorgasbord
Of mining and militarization.
657
00:33:03,733 --> 00:33:05,300
There's bullet holes everywhere.
658
00:33:05,300 --> 00:33:08,200
It's actually seen a lot
Of action, this small island
659
00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:09,833
In the middle of nowhere.
660
00:33:09,833 --> 00:33:16,200
*
661
00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:19,067
Narrator: on the suffolk
Coastline in eastern england
662
00:33:19,067 --> 00:33:23,433
Are a string of abandoned
Buildings, strange mounds,
663
00:33:23,433 --> 00:33:29,833
And intriguing
Pagoda-like structures.
664
00:33:29,833 --> 00:33:32,744
Selwood:
It's incredibly isolated.
665
00:33:32,744 --> 00:33:33,000
Selwood:
It's incredibly isolated.
666
00:33:33,467 --> 00:33:36,600
It's bleak, it's cut off
From the mainland by a river.
667
00:33:36,600 --> 00:33:38,633
But yet, there are
These strange mounds
668
00:33:38,633 --> 00:33:41,367
And structures on it.
669
00:33:41,367 --> 00:33:44,167
Narrator: within the
Dilapidated buildings,
670
00:33:44,167 --> 00:33:49,100
The interiors
Are equally mystifying.
671
00:33:49,100 --> 00:33:51,567
Selwood: inside the buildings
Have an abandoned
672
00:33:51,567 --> 00:33:53,067
Quasi-industrial feel.
673
00:33:53,067 --> 00:33:55,500
There are elements of metal
And machinery still there,
674
00:33:55,500 --> 00:33:58,333
But long disused.
675
00:33:58,333 --> 00:34:00,267
Pretty well all the work
That was carried out here
676
00:34:00,267 --> 00:34:02,744
Was secret,
Ultimately top secret.
677
00:34:02,744 --> 00:34:03,000
Was secret,
Ultimately top secret.
678
00:34:05,300 --> 00:34:09,300
Nusbacher: you're still warned
To this day that you mustn't
679
00:34:09,300 --> 00:34:14,433
Tread incorrectly
Or you can be blown sky high.
680
00:34:14,433 --> 00:34:17,167
Narrator: what was the purpose
Of these battered buildings
681
00:34:17,167 --> 00:34:21,900
And strange
Asian-inspired pagodas?
682
00:34:21,900 --> 00:34:27,767
And why is this area
Still filled with danger?
683
00:34:27,767 --> 00:34:31,100
Nusbacher:
You look at all of these
Solidly-built buildings,
684
00:34:31,100 --> 00:34:32,744
And you look at the terrible
Destruction that's clearly
685
00:34:32,744 --> 00:34:33,000
And you look at the terrible
Destruction that's clearly
686
00:34:34,633 --> 00:34:36,067
Been wreaked on them.
687
00:34:36,067 --> 00:34:38,933
You have to ask, what
Happened to these buildings?
688
00:34:38,933 --> 00:34:44,467
*
689
00:34:44,467 --> 00:34:47,933
Narrator: the first clues to
The site's use can be found
690
00:34:47,933 --> 00:34:53,233
Back in the tension filled
Years surrounding world war I.
691
00:34:53,233 --> 00:34:58,567
In 1913, the war department
Acquired this large area of land
692
00:34:58,567 --> 00:35:02,300
Near a small village
In suffolk in order to harness
693
00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:02,744
The latest technology
In warfare.
694
00:35:02,744 --> 00:35:03,000
The latest technology
In warfare.
695
00:35:06,867 --> 00:35:09,967
Nusbacher:
This is the corner of england
Where the experimenters came
696
00:35:09,967 --> 00:35:12,833
To find out what happened
When you dropped a bomb
697
00:35:12,833 --> 00:35:15,067
From the plane.
698
00:35:15,067 --> 00:35:17,800
In a lot of ways,
This beach is where
699
00:35:17,800 --> 00:35:22,367
Military aviation started.
700
00:35:22,367 --> 00:35:25,400
Narrator: the race was on
To test and develop this
701
00:35:25,400 --> 00:35:29,333
New military science,
And this pioneering site
702
00:35:29,333 --> 00:35:31,600
Was leading the way --
703
00:35:31,600 --> 00:35:32,744
Orford ness.
704
00:35:32,744 --> 00:35:33,000
Orford ness.
705
00:35:35,067 --> 00:35:38,067
Selwood: in world war I, aerial
Warfare was completely new.
706
00:35:38,067 --> 00:35:40,400
People had to invent
A new military science,
707
00:35:40,400 --> 00:35:41,900
And to start with it
Was very crude.
708
00:35:41,900 --> 00:35:46,667
It was simply a question of
Dropping bombs out of windows.
709
00:35:46,667 --> 00:35:49,067
Nusbacher: we didn't know what
Happened to a bomb dropped
710
00:35:49,067 --> 00:35:53,800
From a plane until the guys
At orford ness watched it
711
00:35:53,800 --> 00:35:55,867
And measured it
With their instruments.
712
00:35:55,867 --> 00:35:57,933
[ camera shutter clicks ]
713
00:36:00,233 --> 00:36:02,744
Narrator: from pioneering
Research to a top secret
714
00:36:02,744 --> 00:36:03,000
Narrator: from pioneering
Research to a top secret
715
00:36:03,067 --> 00:36:06,067
Super weapon,
Could a catastrophic accident
716
00:36:06,067 --> 00:36:08,900
Have led to the site
Being abandoned?
717
00:36:11,167 --> 00:36:17,500
*
718
00:36:17,500 --> 00:36:21,667
Narrator: in suffolk, england,
Orford ness established itself
719
00:36:21,667 --> 00:36:24,367
As a prime ballistics
Testing site,
720
00:36:24,367 --> 00:36:27,967
Critical to britain's
Aerial forces.
721
00:36:27,967 --> 00:36:32,600
However, after world war ii,
Mistrust and paranoia
722
00:36:32,600 --> 00:36:36,433
Were prevalent as
A new era was ushered in.
723
00:36:39,767 --> 00:36:40,735
Selwood:
During the second world war,
724
00:36:40,735 --> 00:36:41,000
Selwood:
During the second world war,
725
00:36:41,067 --> 00:36:43,333
The uk and us had
Collaborated very closely
726
00:36:43,333 --> 00:36:44,867
On weapons development,
727
00:36:44,867 --> 00:36:47,833
But as the cold war
Emerged after 1945,
728
00:36:47,833 --> 00:36:50,733
The two parted company
Fairly spectacularly,
729
00:36:50,733 --> 00:36:53,767
And britain was left alone
To develop its own weapons,
730
00:36:53,767 --> 00:36:56,800
Including nuclear weapons.
731
00:36:56,800 --> 00:37:02,267
The west goes into
Overdrive in developing
732
00:37:02,267 --> 00:37:04,933
Nuclear weapons in 1949.
733
00:37:04,933 --> 00:37:08,833
This is the height
Of the cold war.
734
00:37:08,833 --> 00:37:10,735
Narrator: britain was now
Engaged in a nuclear arms race,
735
00:37:10,735 --> 00:37:11,000
Narrator: britain was now
Engaged in a nuclear arms race,
736
00:37:13,100 --> 00:37:15,333
And this site was transformed
737
00:37:15,333 --> 00:37:18,567
Into the atomic weapons
Research establishment.
738
00:37:22,667 --> 00:37:26,867
Nusbacher: you don't want an
Atomic bomb to go off
739
00:37:26,867 --> 00:37:30,133
Between the factory
And the airfield.
740
00:37:30,133 --> 00:37:34,233
You don't want the atomic bomb
To go off on the plane
741
00:37:34,233 --> 00:37:37,900
On the way to the target, and
You don't want the atomic bomb
742
00:37:37,900 --> 00:37:40,735
To go off at the wrong time
After you drop it.
743
00:37:40,735 --> 00:37:41,000
To go off at the wrong time
After you drop it.
744
00:37:41,967 --> 00:37:45,300
All of those problems
Needed to be worked out
745
00:37:45,300 --> 00:37:47,567
With experimentation
And that required
746
00:37:47,567 --> 00:37:50,433
An experimentation site.
747
00:37:53,533 --> 00:37:56,933
Narrator: so did an accidental
Explosion or chernobyl-style
748
00:37:56,933 --> 00:38:01,333
Radiation leak lead
To the site being abandoned?
749
00:38:03,067 --> 00:38:06,133
What experiments
Took place here?
750
00:38:06,133 --> 00:38:09,500
The site's manager,
Grant lohorr, explains.
751
00:38:09,500 --> 00:38:10,735
*
752
00:38:10,735 --> 00:38:11,000
*
753
00:38:13,467 --> 00:38:16,167
Lohorr: the first test carried
Out here was on vibrations,
754
00:38:16,167 --> 00:38:18,800
So they were trying
To replicate the vibration
755
00:38:18,800 --> 00:38:21,633
In an aircraft or
In a lorry on the road,
756
00:38:21,633 --> 00:38:26,200
Or they were subjecting
Them to shock or g forces
757
00:38:26,200 --> 00:38:30,933
Or humidity or temperature.
758
00:38:30,933 --> 00:38:34,333
Narrator: each laboratory was
Designed to test different
759
00:38:34,333 --> 00:38:39,067
Components of nuclear bombs.
760
00:38:39,067 --> 00:38:40,735
So this is what was called
The hard target
761
00:38:40,735 --> 00:38:41,000
So this is what was called
The hard target
762
00:38:42,133 --> 00:38:44,600
Or the high-impact facility.
763
00:38:44,600 --> 00:38:47,600
And this is essentially where
They were rocket propelling
764
00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:51,967
Atomic bomb cases, nuclear
Bomb cases, into a very hard,
765
00:38:51,967 --> 00:38:55,067
Concrete wall,
Which was effectively
766
00:38:55,067 --> 00:39:00,267
Replicating the impact of
The weapon when it was dropped.
767
00:39:00,267 --> 00:39:03,133
Narrator: yet the two most
Intriguing facilities
768
00:39:03,133 --> 00:39:06,567
At orford are at
Its farthest point.
769
00:39:06,567 --> 00:39:09,200
They are the pagodas.
770
00:39:12,467 --> 00:39:15,133
Do these mysterious
Structures hold the key
771
00:39:15,133 --> 00:39:18,200
To the site's abandonment?
772
00:39:18,200 --> 00:39:20,633
Nusbacher: this looks like
An ancient temple.
773
00:39:20,633 --> 00:39:24,533
It's got columns holding up
A pyramid.
774
00:39:24,533 --> 00:39:27,067
It's got arcane markings
On the walls,
775
00:39:27,067 --> 00:39:31,933
These strange,
Cruciform brackets.
776
00:39:31,933 --> 00:39:34,367
Narrator: were these strange
Structures some kind
777
00:39:34,367 --> 00:39:36,867
Of defensive bunker?
778
00:39:36,867 --> 00:39:40,735
The work done here
Was shrouded in secrecy.
779
00:39:40,735 --> 00:39:41,000
The work done here
Was shrouded in secrecy.
780
00:39:41,600 --> 00:39:44,833
Lohorr: during that period from
The late '50s into the 1960s,
781
00:39:44,833 --> 00:39:48,200
The most paranoid period
Probably of the cold war,
782
00:39:48,200 --> 00:39:50,733
Everything really
Was extremely secret.
783
00:39:50,733 --> 00:39:54,600
And it appears as if
The site was constantly being
784
00:39:54,600 --> 00:39:56,233
Monitored and surveyed
And photographed
785
00:39:56,233 --> 00:39:59,200
By the soviet union.
786
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:05,233
And so everything around it
Was cloaked in secrecy.
787
00:40:05,233 --> 00:40:08,233
The architecture of
The buildings is highly unusual,
788
00:40:08,233 --> 00:40:09,667
But very specific.
789
00:40:09,667 --> 00:40:10,735
They were created
Explicitly for the purpose
790
00:40:10,735 --> 00:40:11,000
They were created
Explicitly for the purpose
791
00:40:12,100 --> 00:40:18,333
Of understanding the behavior
Of weaponry and explosions.
792
00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:23,433
Nusbacher:
This is a place designed
So that if the pillars are
793
00:40:23,433 --> 00:40:28,200
Blown up, the roof drops
Down and clamps all
794
00:40:28,200 --> 00:40:33,133
Of the explosion and debris
Down into the ground.
795
00:40:33,133 --> 00:40:35,900
Narrator: research conducted
At orford ness
796
00:40:35,900 --> 00:40:38,167
Remains largely secret.
797
00:40:38,167 --> 00:40:40,735
Yet, ironically,
Its success helped bring about
798
00:40:40,735 --> 00:40:41,000
Yet, ironically,
Its success helped bring about
799
00:40:42,067 --> 00:40:46,433
Its own demise.
800
00:40:46,433 --> 00:40:51,067
The u.S. Were so impressed by
The work, they re-established
801
00:40:51,067 --> 00:40:54,567
Their old relationship with
Britain to help advance both
802
00:40:54,567 --> 00:40:58,767
Nation's weapons programs.
803
00:40:58,767 --> 00:41:05,067
Corum:
This facility that concentrates
On britain's separate
804
00:41:05,067 --> 00:41:07,700
Nuclear development is
Really no longer needed
805
00:41:07,700 --> 00:41:10,700
Because essentially the british
Will work together with the
806
00:41:10,700 --> 00:41:10,735
Americans on nuclear weapons,
Which is how it works today.
807
00:41:10,735 --> 00:41:11,000
Americans on nuclear weapons,
Which is how it works today.
808
00:41:15,967 --> 00:41:21,067
Narrator: orford ness was
Finally abandoned in 1987.
809
00:41:21,067 --> 00:41:26,667
*
810
00:41:26,667 --> 00:41:31,367
Today, the site is maintained
By the british national trust
811
00:41:31,367 --> 00:41:36,067
As a peaceful nature reserve,
812
00:41:36,067 --> 00:41:40,735
But its explosive past
Has left a dangerous legacy.
813
00:41:40,735 --> 00:41:41,000
But its explosive past
Has left a dangerous legacy.
814
00:41:42,500 --> 00:41:46,067
Selwood: after so many decades
Of weapons testing at that site,
815
00:41:46,067 --> 00:41:49,333
It's simply not possible to
Guarantee that all devices
816
00:41:49,333 --> 00:41:52,267
Have been found.
817
00:41:52,267 --> 00:41:58,167
It is essentially impossible
To ever clean it out.
818
00:41:58,167 --> 00:42:03,400
*
64507
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