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The South Pacific islands
are the most isolated in the world.
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00:00:54,455 --> 00:00:58,791
Some are more than 4,000 miles
from the nearest continent.
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00:01:02,730 --> 00:01:08,935
The odds against any life reaching these
islands and flourishing were once minute.
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00:01:12,206 --> 00:01:16,943
But no matter how remote they may be,
all have been colonised...
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00:01:19,446 --> 00:01:22,415
first by plants and animals...
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00:01:24,118 --> 00:01:26,886
and then by humans.
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00:01:28,055 --> 00:01:30,857
So who were those castaways?
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00:01:30,958 --> 00:01:34,660
And how did they ever reach
these far-flung islands?
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00:01:47,741 --> 00:01:51,344
More than twice the width
of the Atlantic Ocean,
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00:01:51,445 --> 00:01:54,680
the South Pacific is 10,000 miles wide.
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00:02:01,889 --> 00:02:05,591
Many of the pioneers who made it
to the most easterly islands
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00:02:05,692 --> 00:02:08,261
set off from its far western corner.
13
00:02:13,767 --> 00:02:18,471
And for most,
New Guinea was the launch pad.
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00:02:18,572 --> 00:02:21,240
Three times the size of Britain,
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00:02:21,341 --> 00:02:24,877
this is the largest tropical island
in the world.
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00:02:26,146 --> 00:02:29,549
And the island richest in animal life...
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00:02:32,753 --> 00:02:35,922
with some truly
eye-catching residents.
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00:02:39,092 --> 00:02:43,262
Like this Goldie's bird of paradise.
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00:02:43,363 --> 00:02:46,299
Never filmed before,
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00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:50,570
Goldie's are just one of New Guinea's
38 species of bird of paradise,
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00:02:50,671 --> 00:02:53,639
all famed for their spectacular plumage.
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00:02:58,912 --> 00:03:03,349
Keen to show his impressive feathers
to an attentive female,
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00:03:03,450 --> 00:03:05,551
the male clears the stage.
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00:03:10,891 --> 00:03:15,561
Now he's ready for a spot of serenading.
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00:03:23,303 --> 00:03:27,640
Females may be dull-looking,
but they ARE very picky.
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00:03:35,048 --> 00:03:37,650
His solo fails to impress.
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00:03:38,819 --> 00:03:41,621
A second male arrives
and takes centre stage.
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00:03:41,722 --> 00:03:46,592
But rather than fight,
they strike up a duet!
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00:04:06,914 --> 00:04:11,284
This show of strength
finally gets her attention.
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00:04:12,452 --> 00:04:17,323
The best-dressed Goldie gets the girl.
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00:04:23,096 --> 00:04:26,666
But while his feathers
may have secured him a mate,
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00:04:26,767 --> 00:04:30,269
they're not strong enough
to carry him off the island
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00:04:30,370 --> 00:04:32,672
and further east across the South Pacific.
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00:04:32,773 --> 00:04:38,978
Birds of paradise have sacrificed
flight efficiency for flights of fancy.
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00:04:45,419 --> 00:04:49,388
So who did manage to colonise
the South Pacific?
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00:04:55,128 --> 00:05:01,334
New Guinea's enormous landscape is carved
up into thousands of isolated valleys.
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00:05:10,210 --> 00:05:14,313
Each shelters huge numbers
of potential colonisers.
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00:05:20,253 --> 00:05:25,658
Amazingly, one in twenty of the world's
insect species may live here...
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00:05:31,631 --> 00:05:35,634
as well as almost 300
species of mammal,
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00:05:35,736 --> 00:05:41,007
like the bizarre, egg-laying
long-nosed echidna.
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00:05:46,980 --> 00:05:51,784
There are even kangaroos
that have taken to the trees...
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00:05:54,821 --> 00:05:58,057
although somewhat precariously.
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00:05:58,158 --> 00:06:02,094
Did any of these animals
ever travel east to other islands?
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00:06:05,298 --> 00:06:10,770
Around 300 species of reptiles thrive
within this hothouse...
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00:06:12,005 --> 00:06:15,975
including the ubiquitous
mourning gecko.
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00:06:18,345 --> 00:06:20,212
It is a highly adaptable creature,
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00:06:20,313 --> 00:06:25,518
but did it have the tools, stamina
and luck to survive being a castaway?
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00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:35,928
One animal certainly did.
49
00:06:37,330 --> 00:06:38,631
Humans.
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00:06:44,805 --> 00:06:49,909
Despite only arriving
in New Guinea 40,000 years ago,
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00:06:50,010 --> 00:06:54,947
humans were soon established throughout
the island's maze of hidden valleys.
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00:06:58,085 --> 00:07:00,619
Today, these people
are known as Papuans,
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00:07:00,720 --> 00:07:03,856
and together, speak
over 700 different languages -
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00:07:03,957 --> 00:07:06,459
more than any other island on Earth.
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00:07:10,664 --> 00:07:13,132
Yet despite their mastery of the island,
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00:07:13,233 --> 00:07:16,702
there was one creature
they lived in awe of.
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00:07:16,803 --> 00:07:20,206
The giant, man-eating crocodile.
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00:07:29,749 --> 00:07:33,385
Even today, young men must endure
a brutal initiation ceremony
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00:07:33,487 --> 00:07:35,754
in the belief that they will acquire
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00:07:35,856 --> 00:07:38,457
the strength and guile
of these giant reptiles.
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00:07:49,069 --> 00:07:52,705
The chief shaman calls out
to the crocodile gods,
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00:07:52,806 --> 00:07:55,407
asking for their blessing and protection.
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00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:05,184
The tribesmen form the sinuous shape
of a moving crocodile.
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00:08:07,087 --> 00:08:12,158
At the rear, the crocodile's tail,
a court jester lightens the mood...
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00:08:13,927 --> 00:08:15,661
momentarily.
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00:08:15,762 --> 00:08:20,866
For what follows is a gruelling
and potentially lethal rite of passage.
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00:08:20,967 --> 00:08:26,772
These young men will be mutilated
to resemble crocodiles.
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00:08:32,579 --> 00:08:35,281
The boys are led into the spirit house,
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00:08:35,382 --> 00:08:37,883
running the gauntlet of blows
from their elders.
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00:08:42,556 --> 00:08:47,359
Inside, they find
sharpened lengths of bamboo.
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00:08:49,062 --> 00:08:52,531
The sacred act of scarring
is about to begin.
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00:09:04,844 --> 00:09:08,013
The ritual is a closely guarded secret.
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00:09:18,825 --> 00:09:21,560
Their cuts are thoroughly cleaned.
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00:09:21,661 --> 00:09:24,463
Killer infections are a real danger.
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00:09:28,868 --> 00:09:32,471
They go in as boys,
but they come out as men -
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00:09:32,572 --> 00:09:33,839
crocodile men,
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00:09:33,940 --> 00:09:38,377
with the power to summon
the great reptiles.
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00:09:45,719 --> 00:09:49,822
The scars on their back represent
the animal's scales...
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00:09:54,427 --> 00:09:58,764
while their chests have become
the crocodile's eyes.
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00:10:00,934 --> 00:10:05,037
If the animal you most fear
might be watching your every move,
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00:10:05,138 --> 00:10:08,641
any act of appeasement is worth trying.
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00:10:15,649 --> 00:10:21,353
And New Guinea wasn't the last stop for
saltwater crocodiles in the South Pacific.
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00:10:27,460 --> 00:10:31,030
Millions of years ago,
these powerful reptiles
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00:10:31,131 --> 00:10:33,699
had already begun their push eastwards.
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00:10:42,475 --> 00:10:44,576
For any animal castaway,
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00:10:44,678 --> 00:10:48,681
the first hurdle would have been
the 60-mile stretch of water
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00:10:48,782 --> 00:10:54,086
that separates New Guinea from
the next group of islands - the Solomons.
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00:11:01,361 --> 00:11:05,597
Instead of one dominating island,
like New Guinea,
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00:11:05,699 --> 00:11:09,435
the Solomons are made up
of almost a thousand smaller jewels
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00:11:09,536 --> 00:11:11,837
scattered along a 900-mile chain.
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00:11:19,979 --> 00:11:25,617
All these islands erupted out of the sea
and were ripe for colonisation.
92
00:11:40,200 --> 00:11:42,768
The ancestors of these Solomon Islanders
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00:11:42,869 --> 00:11:47,740
made that initial 60-mile crossing
some 30,000 years ago.
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00:11:58,752 --> 00:12:03,589
Whether their ancestors paddled across
in hollowed-out tree trunks like these
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00:12:03,690 --> 00:12:07,760
or floated on giant bamboo rafts,
no-one knows.
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00:12:22,008 --> 00:12:25,577
And with land occasionally in sight,
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00:12:25,678 --> 00:12:29,248
they would have surely been
tempted to investigate.
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00:12:41,795 --> 00:12:45,497
By the time people arrived,
the Solomons were packed
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00:12:45,598 --> 00:12:49,268
with almost a quarter of the plants
and animals found in New Guinea...
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00:12:53,940 --> 00:12:58,744
including their old adversary,
the saltwater crocodile.
101
00:13:02,248 --> 00:13:06,318
A 60-mile swim would be
an unimaginable feat for most animals,
102
00:13:06,419 --> 00:13:09,121
but salties are not most animals.
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00:13:11,558 --> 00:13:14,860
One of the few crocodiles
to tolerate saltwater,
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00:13:14,961 --> 00:13:18,997
they are also the largest
and strongest swimmers.
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00:13:21,234 --> 00:13:23,702
Guided by an internal compass,
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00:13:23,803 --> 00:13:26,572
they made landfall throughout the Solomons
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00:13:26,673 --> 00:13:30,776
and became the most easterly population
of crocodiles in the Pacific.
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00:13:35,915 --> 00:13:40,319
Once arrived,
they'd have had plenty to feast on.
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00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:50,796
The waters surrounding New Guinea
and the Solomons
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00:13:50,897 --> 00:13:55,000
are the richest and most diverse
in the world.
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00:13:56,402 --> 00:14:01,507
Indeed, there are more species of fish
on one of these reefs
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00:14:01,608 --> 00:14:04,176
than in the whole of the Caribbean.
113
00:14:06,079 --> 00:14:10,182
But how did all this life reach
the Solomons from New Guinea?
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00:14:19,926 --> 00:14:21,426
You might think it would be easy
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00:14:21,528 --> 00:14:24,496
for a fish to swim
between these small islands.
116
00:14:24,564 --> 00:14:26,398
But not so.
117
00:14:26,499 --> 00:14:30,903
You wouldn't find these little fish
in deep water.
118
00:14:33,139 --> 00:14:38,644
The open ocean beyond their shallow reef
is, in fact, a huge barrier.
119
00:14:38,745 --> 00:14:42,414
So how did all these fish
come to be here?
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00:14:47,520 --> 00:14:52,057
Colonising new reefs is a challenge
faced by fish across the South Pacific,
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00:14:52,158 --> 00:14:54,526
but they have a simple solution.
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00:14:56,129 --> 00:15:01,066
Once a year, thousands of groupers
gather on the reefs.
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00:15:01,167 --> 00:15:05,604
With the coming of the full moon,
an extraordinary event unfolds.
124
00:15:12,078 --> 00:15:14,713
They spawn.
125
00:15:14,814 --> 00:15:19,051
A female darts up and releases millions
of eggs, quickly followed by the males,
126
00:15:19,152 --> 00:15:21,620
who jostle to fertilise them.
127
00:15:29,295 --> 00:15:33,632
But starting new life can end in death.
128
00:15:35,234 --> 00:15:37,569
Grey reef sharks.
129
00:15:57,423 --> 00:16:01,460
Groupers are normally too quick
for sharks...
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00:16:03,963 --> 00:16:06,264
but a distracted grouper is shark bait.
131
00:16:31,491 --> 00:16:34,960
The sharks may snatch a few adults,
132
00:16:35,061 --> 00:16:41,366
but millions upon millions of fertilised
grouper eggs are picked up by the current.
133
00:16:47,407 --> 00:16:51,510
Out in the open ocean,
they hatch into larvae
134
00:16:51,611 --> 00:16:54,980
and become part of the vast plankton soup.
135
00:17:02,588 --> 00:17:06,158
And it's not just fish that depend
on the whim of the open ocean
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00:17:06,259 --> 00:17:08,593
to disperse their larvae.
137
00:17:08,695 --> 00:17:12,464
Land crabs and other crustaceans do, too.
138
00:17:16,602 --> 00:17:18,537
But there's a deadline.
139
00:17:18,638 --> 00:17:22,441
They each have a set number of days
to reach new islands.
140
00:17:32,051 --> 00:17:35,921
Astonishingly,
these larvae are able to home in
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00:17:36,022 --> 00:17:38,724
on the smells and sounds of distant reefs.
142
00:17:44,797 --> 00:17:47,132
Out of the millions of larvae
that set off,
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00:17:47,233 --> 00:17:51,870
only a small fraction will succeed
in colonising new islands.
144
00:18:01,414 --> 00:18:05,751
Curiously, some freshwater fish
also spawn at sea
145
00:18:05,852 --> 00:18:09,654
and use the sea to help their larvae
colonise rivers.
146
00:18:20,233 --> 00:18:25,804
These freshwater eels in the Solomons
began their lives hundreds of miles away,
147
00:18:25,905 --> 00:18:30,509
possibly in a deep sea trench
off New Guinea.
148
00:18:33,112 --> 00:18:36,181
Yet as larvae and then elvers,
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00:18:36,282 --> 00:18:40,152
they made their way
into these freshwater pools,
150
00:18:40,253 --> 00:18:45,724
and over 40 years,
grew into two-metre giants.
151
00:19:00,973 --> 00:19:05,777
The eels are highly prized
by the locals.
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00:19:11,050 --> 00:19:15,020
These Solomon Islanders handfeed them,
not to fatten them up for dinner
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00:19:15,121 --> 00:19:18,056
but to encourage them to stick around.
154
00:19:22,128 --> 00:19:25,197
By scavenging on whatever's decaying here,
155
00:19:25,298 --> 00:19:28,533
the eels clean the islanders'
precious pools of drinking water...
156
00:19:28,634 --> 00:19:33,939
and over time, the honorary guests
have become tame.
157
00:20:06,772 --> 00:20:11,276
One day, these adult freshwater eels
will return to the sea to spawn...
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00:20:11,377 --> 00:20:14,613
after which, they'll die.
159
00:20:21,187 --> 00:20:24,656
For now, they are as good as pets.
160
00:20:34,000 --> 00:20:37,802
Away from the coast,
animals are thin on the ground.
161
00:20:42,074 --> 00:20:47,545
The Solomons have only a quarter of the
reptiles and birds that New Guinea has.
162
00:20:47,647 --> 00:20:53,818
For mammals like echidnas and kangaroos,
the water proved too great a hurdle.
163
00:20:53,920 --> 00:20:57,989
But some mammals did make it here.
164
00:21:04,797 --> 00:21:07,632
When it comes to reaching new islands,
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00:21:07,733 --> 00:21:10,769
flying must surely have been
the easiest way to get there.
166
00:21:13,105 --> 00:21:16,374
But the 60 miles between New Guinea
and the Solomons
167
00:21:16,475 --> 00:21:22,080
still proved a formidable challenge
for many winged creatures.
168
00:21:23,950 --> 00:21:26,217
With their four-foot wingspans,
169
00:21:26,319 --> 00:21:31,122
giant fruit bats succeeded
where other fliers failed.
170
00:21:35,661 --> 00:21:41,232
Carrying undigested fruit seeds
from New Guinea in their stomachs,
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00:21:41,334 --> 00:21:45,370
they inadvertently helped
sow the Solomons' rainforests.
172
00:21:57,416 --> 00:22:02,287
By day, these nocturnal fruit bats
roost communally
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00:22:02,388 --> 00:22:05,256
in the safety of the tallest trees.
174
00:22:12,498 --> 00:22:18,370
From the few bats that made it here,
there are now 18 different species.
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00:22:20,539 --> 00:22:25,010
They have become the most widespread
native mammal in the South Pacific.
176
00:22:30,516 --> 00:22:36,054
East of the Solomons, the distance
between islands increases dramatically.
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00:22:36,155 --> 00:22:41,893
It's now 1,000 miles of open ocean
before the next island groups -
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00:22:41,994 --> 00:22:46,564
Fiji, Samoa and Tonga.
179
00:22:58,310 --> 00:23:03,214
Of all these island clusters,
Fiji is the largest...
180
00:23:06,018 --> 00:23:12,257
made up of over 300 volcanic islands,
formed some 40 million years ago.
181
00:23:19,365 --> 00:23:23,535
Fiji is around two-thirds the size
of the Solomons,
182
00:23:23,636 --> 00:23:27,405
so remained a reasonable target
for would-be colonisers.
183
00:23:31,544 --> 00:23:33,978
Despite its isolation, it is still home
184
00:23:34,080 --> 00:23:38,049
to nearly half the number of plant species
found in the Solomons.
185
00:23:39,852 --> 00:23:43,354
But animal colonisers
were not so successful.
186
00:23:48,260 --> 00:23:52,897
At night, the forests are eerily quiet.
187
00:23:55,201 --> 00:23:58,703
Only a handful of bats made it here,
188
00:23:58,804 --> 00:24:04,109
the only mammals to do so,
and there are far fewer birds.
189
00:24:17,890 --> 00:24:21,059
In the absence of ground predators,
190
00:24:21,160 --> 00:24:24,262
invertebrates evolved into monsters.
191
00:24:38,043 --> 00:24:42,514
This millipede is one
of the biggest of its kind,
192
00:24:42,615 --> 00:24:45,617
running almost a foot long.
193
00:24:47,119 --> 00:24:52,390
Its diet of rotten vegetation
may have sustained its ancestors
194
00:24:52,491 --> 00:24:55,426
on their long journeys
to these distant shores.
195
00:24:55,528 --> 00:24:58,563
But how did they get here?
196
00:25:10,543 --> 00:25:15,713
Perhaps more surprising,
two species of frog also made it to Fiji.
197
00:25:17,383 --> 00:25:22,320
Surprising because adult frogs
quickly die in saltwater.
198
00:25:30,763 --> 00:25:35,867
But the ancestor of this frog
may have arrived here as a tadpole.
199
00:25:39,271 --> 00:25:43,942
Tadpoles normally need
pools of freshwater to develop in,
200
00:25:44,043 --> 00:25:48,580
but these actually mature inside the egg.
201
00:25:52,384 --> 00:25:54,319
So, on long journeys,
202
00:25:54,420 --> 00:25:58,022
these eggs would have been
like little survival capsules.
203
00:26:00,159 --> 00:26:04,929
But the question remains -
how did they ever reach these islands?
204
00:26:13,639 --> 00:26:19,510
Maybe the same way
as Fiji's most intriguing castaway of all.
205
00:26:27,019 --> 00:26:29,320
Discovered only 30 years ago,
206
00:26:29,421 --> 00:26:32,924
Fiji's largest surviving reptile
was marooned
207
00:26:33,025 --> 00:26:35,560
on a handful of its outer islands.
208
00:26:40,699 --> 00:26:44,035
Crested iguanas.
209
00:26:44,136 --> 00:26:49,240
They're one of the toughest and
most saltwater-tolerant lizards around.
210
00:26:51,343 --> 00:26:56,214
In the breeding season,
males, nearly a metre long,
211
00:26:56,315 --> 00:26:58,950
battle it out for a mate.
212
00:27:00,819 --> 00:27:05,690
They begin with a gentle bout
of competitive head-bobbing.
213
00:27:08,927 --> 00:27:12,230
If no-one backs down,
things become more animated.
214
00:27:21,974 --> 00:27:25,276
The loser scrambles for cover.
215
00:27:31,850 --> 00:27:35,586
So where did these large lizards
come from?
216
00:27:35,688 --> 00:27:39,023
Some speculate Asia,
4,000 miles to the west...
217
00:27:39,124 --> 00:27:42,660
others, the Americas,
5,000 miles to the east.
218
00:27:42,761 --> 00:27:46,130
But how did they end up here in Fiji?
219
00:27:49,568 --> 00:27:53,571
One answer is that the iguanas,
the frogs and the millipedes
220
00:27:53,672 --> 00:27:56,774
were all carried here
by powerful oceanic forces.
221
00:28:09,455 --> 00:28:14,525
Every day, large waves beat down
on tiny islands across the Pacific.
222
00:28:25,371 --> 00:28:30,241
Imposing as they may be,
these have little impact on island life.
223
00:28:40,119 --> 00:28:44,055
But every year, much larger waves
rise out of the ocean.
224
00:28:51,130 --> 00:28:55,767
They're generated by underwater
landslides and earthquakes.
225
00:28:56,835 --> 00:29:00,838
Known as tsunamis,
they can flatten coastlines.
226
00:29:11,683 --> 00:29:17,822
Yet these destructive forces may have also
brought life to some islands.
227
00:29:22,127 --> 00:29:27,465
As tsunamis strike the coast,
rafts of vegetation can be cast adrift.
228
00:29:30,169 --> 00:29:33,971
Perhaps animals were caught up
in those rafts, too.
229
00:29:42,114 --> 00:29:46,184
Could this have been the answer
to how these animals made it to Fiji?
230
00:29:47,886 --> 00:29:50,521
After all, they are
the hardiest of their kind
231
00:29:50,622 --> 00:29:53,858
and could have survived long sea journeys.
232
00:29:59,898 --> 00:30:04,569
Fiji's first animals washed up
tens of millions of years ago.
233
00:30:08,240 --> 00:30:11,075
But humans were slow off the block.
234
00:30:11,176 --> 00:30:15,746
They only arrived here 3,500 years ago.
235
00:30:22,554 --> 00:30:25,189
Their history remains thin on the ground.
236
00:30:27,759 --> 00:30:33,598
The ruins of Nan Madol are one of only two
ancient cities ever found in the Pacific.
237
00:30:36,602 --> 00:30:39,537
With archaeological evidence so scarce,
238
00:30:39,638 --> 00:30:44,342
the origins of the first people
in the central Pacific were hotly debated.
239
00:30:47,179 --> 00:30:49,981
Were they Papuans from New Guinea,
240
00:30:50,082 --> 00:30:56,053
native Indians from the Americas,
or another race of people from Asia?
241
00:31:01,493 --> 00:31:07,164
Only very recently has their language
been traced back to Taiwan...
242
00:31:08,734 --> 00:31:11,102
and their pottery to the Philippines.
243
00:31:11,203 --> 00:31:15,840
Combined with DNA analysis,
evidence now points to the Lapita,
244
00:31:15,941 --> 00:31:18,809
a seafaring people from Southeast Asia.
245
00:31:34,560 --> 00:31:37,995
Back in the Solomons,
on the tiny island of Taumako,
246
00:31:38,096 --> 00:31:42,700
descendants of the Lapita still build
and sail traditional voyaging canoes.
247
00:31:58,617 --> 00:32:01,352
These canoes may look basic,
248
00:32:01,453 --> 00:32:04,221
but their relative sophistication
enabled the Lapita
249
00:32:04,323 --> 00:32:09,560
to travel further into the Pacific
than anyone had ever dared before.
250
00:32:12,331 --> 00:32:17,134
They were no longer reliant
on paddles alone - they had wind power.
251
00:32:18,604 --> 00:32:22,540
Sails, perhaps similar
to this crab-claw design,
252
00:32:22,641 --> 00:32:25,610
enabled the Lapita
to cover huge distances.
253
00:32:49,968 --> 00:32:54,338
But with heavy sails,
the canoes needed extra stability.
254
00:32:55,907 --> 00:32:58,909
The Lapita added a second hull
255
00:32:59,011 --> 00:33:03,914
and the long-distance outrigger canoe
was finally born.
256
00:33:16,928 --> 00:33:23,134
The Lapita's first voyages into
the unknown must have appeared suicidal.
257
00:33:27,272 --> 00:33:32,576
Although many were lost at sea,
some Lapita DID reach new islands,
258
00:33:32,678 --> 00:33:36,747
thanks to their extraordinary
navigation skills.
259
00:33:36,848 --> 00:33:41,519
This man can interpret
the direction of land
260
00:33:41,620 --> 00:33:44,455
by reading wave and swell patterns.
261
00:33:50,095 --> 00:33:54,265
Like his ancestors, he carries in his head
a complex wind map
262
00:33:54,366 --> 00:33:59,437
detailing the various seasonal winds
that serve as a compass.
263
00:34:02,974 --> 00:34:06,877
And at night,
he can navigate by the stars.
264
00:34:15,053 --> 00:34:19,023
In craft like these, the Lapita
reached the islands of Tonga,
265
00:34:19,124 --> 00:34:24,562
2,000 miles east of New Guinea,
in the heart of the South Pacific.
266
00:34:34,940 --> 00:34:39,477
Further east, the odds of a castaway
making land drop steeply
267
00:34:39,578 --> 00:34:43,547
as the islands become fewer
and even more isolated.
268
00:34:51,389 --> 00:34:57,194
Almost all animal castaways would
have died of exposure, hunger or thirst
269
00:34:57,295 --> 00:35:01,766
long before reaching French Polynesia
in the eastern Pacific.
270
00:35:03,602 --> 00:35:07,838
Reaching land here was a matter
of extraordinary luck.
271
00:35:10,909 --> 00:35:14,245
Unlike Fiji, there are no bats
in French Polynesia,
272
00:35:14,346 --> 00:35:17,348
no frogs and only a handful of lizards.
273
00:35:20,352 --> 00:35:23,788
The most successful travellers
were the long-haul fliers -
274
00:35:23,855 --> 00:35:26,524
sooty terns.
275
00:35:26,625 --> 00:35:31,729
Incredibly, they can stay in the air
for four years without landing...
276
00:35:38,236 --> 00:35:42,673
but to breed, they must return
to nesting sites on remote islands.
277
00:35:42,774 --> 00:35:46,410
And when they do, they introduce new life.
278
00:35:51,383 --> 00:35:56,387
Sticky or barbed seeds fasten on to their
feathers and hitch rides across oceans.
279
00:36:03,762 --> 00:36:09,466
On some islands, 75% of plants
arrived with the birds.
280
00:36:15,774 --> 00:36:18,909
Seeds are even carried
in the stomachs of some birds.
281
00:36:21,413 --> 00:36:23,981
As if getting a lift wasn't enough
for these seeds,
282
00:36:24,082 --> 00:36:26,617
seabirds also provide them
with something else.
283
00:36:28,086 --> 00:36:30,554
The seafood these birds bring back
to the islands
284
00:36:30,655 --> 00:36:36,060
is turned into nutrient-rich guano -
plant fertiliser.
285
00:36:40,532 --> 00:36:45,870
And there's enough of it to transform
barren coral atolls into fertile groves.
286
00:36:52,811 --> 00:36:57,481
There is one plant castaway that needs
no help in finding new land -
287
00:36:57,582 --> 00:37:00,417
a plant that has probably done more
288
00:37:00,518 --> 00:37:04,221
to change the fortunes of island life
than any other,
289
00:37:04,322 --> 00:37:08,726
and one of the greatest
long-distance travellers of all time.
290
00:37:14,399 --> 00:37:16,834
The humble coconut.
291
00:37:23,642 --> 00:37:27,044
Its seed is a compact survival capsule.
292
00:37:30,115 --> 00:37:33,617
Buoyant and filled with food
for germination,
293
00:37:33,718 --> 00:37:36,654
it can survive
for up to two months at sea...
294
00:37:38,924 --> 00:37:43,861
long enough to float
from one remote island to the next.
295
00:38:01,146 --> 00:38:04,581
On arrival, it lays down roots
into bare sand
296
00:38:04,683 --> 00:38:08,719
and taps into the reservoirs
of underground freshwater.
297
00:38:14,192 --> 00:38:20,164
Without coconuts, most of
the tropical islands in the South Pacific
298
00:38:20,265 --> 00:38:24,435
would have remained uninhabitable
for both animals and people.
299
00:38:33,778 --> 00:38:37,881
There is one set of islands,
however, that is so remote
300
00:38:37,983 --> 00:38:40,884
that even the coconut couldn't reach it.
301
00:38:46,124 --> 00:38:52,496
North of the equator, 2,500 miles from
the nearest landmass of North America,
302
00:38:52,597 --> 00:38:58,936
lies the most isolated chain of islands
in the world - Hawaii.
303
00:39:21,292 --> 00:39:23,994
The longest archipelago in the Pacific,
304
00:39:24,095 --> 00:39:28,532
Hawaii consists of over 100
ancient volcanic islands
305
00:39:28,633 --> 00:39:31,301
stretching for 2,000 miles.
306
00:39:36,241 --> 00:39:42,179
Yet it is so remote that
less than 500 kinds of animal settled here
307
00:39:42,280 --> 00:39:44,248
in 30 million years.
308
00:39:55,860 --> 00:40:00,397
But for those who did make it
to this lush and fertile land,
309
00:40:00,498 --> 00:40:03,300
the world was their oyster.
310
00:40:06,204 --> 00:40:10,407
Here, coconut palms have been replaced
by giant tree ferns
311
00:40:10,508 --> 00:40:12,776
standing over seven metres tall.
312
00:40:20,018 --> 00:40:24,321
From the 13 kinds of spider
that made it here,
313
00:40:24,422 --> 00:40:27,991
over 100 new species evolved -
like the happy-face spider.
314
00:40:29,494 --> 00:40:35,365
From just one species of fruit fly
came over 1,000 others.
315
00:40:38,369 --> 00:40:42,506
And here, caterpillars were free
to become carnivores.
316
00:40:44,876 --> 00:40:48,545
Hawaii's 20 surviving species
of honey creeper
317
00:40:48,646 --> 00:40:51,615
also evolved from just a few individuals.
318
00:40:52,884 --> 00:40:57,488
Compared to seabirds,
honey creepers are poor fliers.
319
00:40:57,589 --> 00:41:00,491
So how did the ancestors
of these forest birds
320
00:41:00,592 --> 00:41:04,027
and Hawaii's other castaways get here?
321
00:41:09,134 --> 00:41:11,802
The answer may be blowing in the wind.
322
00:41:17,208 --> 00:41:21,745
Even the gentlest breeze
can have a huge impact.
323
00:41:21,846 --> 00:41:27,651
Tree ferns stir
and release their lightweight spores.
324
00:41:32,590 --> 00:41:37,761
Thermal updrafts can carry the spores
30,000 feet into the jet stream.
325
00:41:42,834 --> 00:41:47,771
And there are even animals designed
to ride these high-altitude air currents.
326
00:41:49,807 --> 00:41:54,711
Near-weightless spiderlings
are expert ballooners,
327
00:41:54,812 --> 00:41:57,214
catching the wind
with their gossamer threads.
328
00:42:04,389 --> 00:42:08,926
Like spores, they, too,
can hitch a ride on the jet stream.
329
00:42:11,963 --> 00:42:15,132
Enduring temperatures
of minus 30 degrees centigrade,
330
00:42:15,233 --> 00:42:20,571
a spider can cross the breadth
of the Pacific in a matter of days.
331
00:42:26,711 --> 00:42:30,747
Larger insects and animals need
more than a breeze to carry them away.
332
00:42:41,059 --> 00:42:46,330
Vast tracts of warm water are
a perfect environment for cyclones.
333
00:42:48,967 --> 00:42:52,936
Over half the cyclones on the planet -
around 30 a year -
334
00:42:53,037 --> 00:42:55,172
form in the Pacific Ocean.
335
00:43:04,549 --> 00:43:07,251
Heated by the warm tropical sun,
336
00:43:07,352 --> 00:43:10,454
water evaporates
and forms massive thunderstorms,
337
00:43:10,555 --> 00:43:13,090
fuelling a whirling vortex...
338
00:43:17,028 --> 00:43:20,564
in some cases up to 500 miles wide.
339
00:43:26,838 --> 00:43:31,375
When they collide with islands,
they unleash their fury.
340
00:43:43,755 --> 00:43:47,357
Winds in excess of 100mph
can uproot a forest.
341
00:44:04,809 --> 00:44:07,177
Large insects can be
sucked up into the sky...
342
00:44:11,282 --> 00:44:15,652
so why not birds, bats and lizards?
343
00:44:27,332 --> 00:44:31,034
In fact, all these creatures
are known to have been carried
344
00:44:31,135 --> 00:44:34,204
hundreds of miles out to sea by cyclones.
345
00:44:41,579 --> 00:44:46,583
When the storm subsides,
most will meet a watery grave.
346
00:44:56,427 --> 00:45:01,064
But a very, very lucky few
will land on firm ground,
347
00:45:01,165 --> 00:45:06,169
and from these survivors,
a whole island dynasty may be born.
348
00:45:10,942 --> 00:45:16,580
No matter how remote
the Hawaiian islands are, or how hostile,
349
00:45:16,681 --> 00:45:19,683
there is one creature
that has reached almost all of them.
350
00:45:31,496 --> 00:45:33,964
The mourning gecko.
351
00:45:38,736 --> 00:45:40,771
It is the ultimate castaway...
352
00:45:42,940 --> 00:45:46,843
the marathon winner
on the long journey from New Guinea.
353
00:45:56,487 --> 00:46:00,924
Incredibly, the female mourning gecko
has done away with the need for a mate.
354
00:46:10,368 --> 00:46:15,939
Instead, she simply produces eggs
that need no fertilisation.
355
00:46:19,777 --> 00:46:26,817
So one single female washed up on
an island could start a whole population.
356
00:46:32,523 --> 00:46:34,558
Along with this extraordinary ability,
357
00:46:34,659 --> 00:46:37,661
these thick-skinned
and salt-resistant geckos
358
00:46:37,762 --> 00:46:41,264
could also survive
long sea passages on rafts,
359
00:46:41,365 --> 00:46:44,935
and even the force of cyclones.
360
00:46:51,409 --> 00:46:54,878
But there is more
to the gecko's story than this.
361
00:47:02,353 --> 00:47:04,688
Less than 2,000 years ago,
362
00:47:04,789 --> 00:47:07,324
something happened
that was to revolutionise
363
00:47:07,425 --> 00:47:10,260
the spread of plants and animals.
364
00:47:18,769 --> 00:47:22,172
Taking to their sailing boats once more,
descendants of the Lapita
365
00:47:22,273 --> 00:47:27,644
left the central Pacific and set off again
in search of new lands...
366
00:47:28,946 --> 00:47:32,148
into the great unknown.
367
00:47:36,087 --> 00:47:40,123
As pioneers, they took everything they
would need to start their lives afresh.
368
00:47:40,191 --> 00:47:41,558
Livestock.
369
00:47:41,659 --> 00:47:44,728
Plants for cultivation.
370
00:47:49,433 --> 00:47:51,868
Even the coconut.
371
00:47:58,276 --> 00:48:02,946
But they would also have taken
a long list of stowaways...
372
00:48:07,485 --> 00:48:09,519
like the mourning gecko.
373
00:48:13,024 --> 00:48:14,791
This lizard was just one castaway
374
00:48:14,892 --> 00:48:20,263
which no longer had to rely on
its stamina and luck to reach new lands.
375
00:48:22,700 --> 00:48:24,901
It could now hitch a free ride.
376
00:48:32,910 --> 00:48:37,080
In a series of epic voyages,
the descendants of the Lapita,
377
00:48:37,181 --> 00:48:39,816
the people we now call the Polynesians,
378
00:48:39,917 --> 00:48:43,219
succeeded in colonising
the far corners of the South Pacific -
379
00:48:43,321 --> 00:48:47,457
from Hawaii to New Zealand,
even to Easter Island,
380
00:48:47,558 --> 00:48:52,095
nearly 7,000 miles east of New Guinea.
381
00:48:54,231 --> 00:49:00,971
In doing so, animal castaways now reached
new islands at a rate never seen before,
382
00:49:01,072 --> 00:49:05,709
changing the nature
of the South Pacific for ever.
383
00:49:25,830 --> 00:49:28,264
For years, the Solomon Islands
have been home
384
00:49:28,366 --> 00:49:32,035
to legends of massive
saltwater crocodiles.
385
00:49:33,237 --> 00:49:38,308
Separating fact from fiction,
the goal of the Castaways team
386
00:49:38,409 --> 00:49:43,046
was to capture evidence that huge crocs
WERE living on these little-known islands.
387
00:49:50,521 --> 00:49:53,990
Braving the high seas,
cameraman Wade Fairley
388
00:49:54,091 --> 00:49:57,427
made the 1,000-mile crossing
from Australia to the Solomons.
389
00:50:01,298 --> 00:50:05,368
The Solomons are a chain
of almost 1,000 remote islands.
390
00:50:05,469 --> 00:50:07,671
Wade would need the freedom of a boat
391
00:50:07,772 --> 00:50:11,241
to stand a chance of finding
these mysterious crocodiles.
392
00:50:11,342 --> 00:50:12,809
Caught some dinner.
393
00:50:12,910 --> 00:50:14,611
Joined by producer Mark Brownlow,
394
00:50:14,712 --> 00:50:19,783
they started their two-week expedition
in the Western Provinces.
395
00:50:24,722 --> 00:50:28,458
With few scientific leads, they
would have to rely on local knowledge.
396
00:50:31,962 --> 00:50:36,533
The crocodile tales began, interpreted
by Wade, a fluent pidgin-speaker.
397
00:50:39,637 --> 00:50:42,138
WADE: Oh, yeah?
398
00:50:42,940 --> 00:50:44,340
MAN: Sacred crocodile.
399
00:50:44,442 --> 00:50:47,444
- And he's got no tail?
- No, no tail.
400
00:50:53,017 --> 00:50:57,420
Following the tip-off
of the four-metre tailless crocodile,
401
00:50:57,521 --> 00:51:02,959
they decided to track him down that night,
when these reptiles are most active.
402
00:51:05,162 --> 00:51:07,897
To minimise disturbance,
403
00:51:07,998 --> 00:51:12,001
they scanned the mangroves with
infrared light, invisible to crocodiles.
404
00:51:15,573 --> 00:51:17,040
Well, that's remarkable.
405
00:51:17,141 --> 00:51:19,476
I would have guaranteed
that we were onto something here,
406
00:51:19,577 --> 00:51:21,377
but we haven't seen one crocodile.
407
00:51:23,481 --> 00:51:25,448
Ooh.
408
00:51:27,351 --> 00:51:29,252
Aside from a mysterious splash,
409
00:51:29,353 --> 00:51:33,456
the only confirmed sightings
were juveniles.
410
00:51:35,493 --> 00:51:37,026
Where were the adults?
411
00:51:40,131 --> 00:51:41,631
Over the next two nights,
412
00:51:41,732 --> 00:51:45,168
the tailless croc
continued to elude them.
413
00:51:48,339 --> 00:51:51,040
It was time to move on.
414
00:51:52,543 --> 00:51:54,110
70 miles to the east,
415
00:51:54,211 --> 00:51:57,647
they reached the island of Liapari,
in the central Solomons.
416
00:51:59,984 --> 00:52:02,519
We're hoping to film some crocs
in a freshwater lake,
417
00:52:02,620 --> 00:52:05,321
which we... we hear is "stacka".
418
00:52:05,422 --> 00:52:06,790
The big question is,
419
00:52:06,891 --> 00:52:10,794
is there going to be stacka
too much crocodiles or stacka little bit?
420
00:52:10,895 --> 00:52:15,999
Once more, they were regaled
by stories of giant crocodiles.
421
00:52:16,100 --> 00:52:21,805
You say the old man,
he talk to the crocodiles?
422
00:52:26,744 --> 00:52:28,144
I try to explain it.
423
00:52:28,245 --> 00:52:31,414
He knows the crocodiles,
he's got some, you know, magic...
424
00:52:31,515 --> 00:52:33,817
- Magic.
- that they can work together.
425
00:52:33,918 --> 00:52:36,452
But there were words of warning.
426
00:52:49,433 --> 00:52:52,235
Unnerved by tales of man-eating crocs,
427
00:52:52,336 --> 00:52:57,140
Mark and Wade headed off
in search of the crocodile lake.
428
00:52:58,475 --> 00:53:01,845
On the way, they passed
some sinister sights.
429
00:53:04,615 --> 00:53:05,982
A skull shrine -
430
00:53:06,083 --> 00:53:09,152
evidence of the island's
head-hunting past.
431
00:53:14,391 --> 00:53:17,894
- So this sacred place with the skulls...
- Yeah, yeah.
432
00:53:17,995 --> 00:53:21,197
is guarded by
the crocodiles of the lake?
433
00:53:24,535 --> 00:53:30,006
Reaching the lake, Wade and Mark
edged as close as they dared.
434
00:53:30,107 --> 00:53:32,909
Would they see
any of these legendary crocs?
435
00:53:33,010 --> 00:53:36,312
We've got no idea
how big these saltwater crocs are,
436
00:53:36,413 --> 00:53:40,049
but we don't dare get any closer -
it could be too dangerous.
437
00:53:41,619 --> 00:53:42,952
That afternoon,
438
00:53:43,053 --> 00:53:46,990
Wade got his first shot
of a modestly sized, two-metre crocodile.
439
00:53:49,126 --> 00:53:53,263
Despite camping out for three days,
they failed to spot anything larger.
440
00:53:53,364 --> 00:53:57,567
Whatever big crocs were out there
did not materialise.
441
00:54:02,373 --> 00:54:04,774
It was beginning to feel
like a wild croc chase,
442
00:54:04,875 --> 00:54:08,411
but they decided to push on
to new islands.
443
00:54:13,050 --> 00:54:18,655
A hundred miles east,
they dropped anchor in Marovo Lagoon.
444
00:54:18,756 --> 00:54:24,761
Wade explored the maze of mangroves -
prime crocodile country.
445
00:54:27,231 --> 00:54:31,935
That was rather sobering advice.
I was paddling quite close to the bank -
446
00:54:32,036 --> 00:54:34,504
he told me to come back out
into the middle
447
00:54:34,605 --> 00:54:36,906
because that's where the crocodiles are.
448
00:54:42,813 --> 00:54:48,518
They called in at the local village
to ask their advice on where to stake out,
449
00:54:48,619 --> 00:54:53,156
discovering worrying signs
of big crocodiles at large.
450
00:55:09,206 --> 00:55:14,877
Only a large crocodile would be capable
of inflicting such a horrific injury.
451
00:55:14,979 --> 00:55:17,914
The village chief confirmed
452
00:55:18,015 --> 00:55:22,719
that attacks on both the villagers
and their livestock were on the increase.
453
00:55:42,673 --> 00:55:45,908
With displaced crocodiles
now encroaching on villages,
454
00:55:46,010 --> 00:55:48,177
there appeared to be a growing conflict.
455
00:56:00,424 --> 00:56:02,658
WADE: Do you think he's a danger?
456
00:56:08,232 --> 00:56:11,200
♪ Thank you for your love... ♪
457
00:56:18,776 --> 00:56:21,077
To learn more about
these problem crocodiles,
458
00:56:21,178 --> 00:56:25,181
the team headed
to the Solomons' capital, Honiara -
459
00:56:25,282 --> 00:56:28,851
headquarters for the international
peacekeeping force
460
00:56:28,952 --> 00:56:32,455
policing both the islanders
and their crocodiles.
461
00:56:32,556 --> 00:56:36,659
We've had some tragedies here where people
have lost their life or been injured.
462
00:56:36,760 --> 00:56:39,262
Not nice at all, and that worries us,
463
00:56:39,363 --> 00:56:42,131
but I think that we have
a system to manage that
464
00:56:42,232 --> 00:56:46,402
inasmuch that we've got
this team of people that are skilled
465
00:56:46,503 --> 00:56:49,472
and well trained to go and destroy them.
466
00:56:49,573 --> 00:56:54,043
Not that we really want to do that, but
when it's asked for, we'll go and do it.
467
00:56:56,814 --> 00:57:00,249
So the large crocodiles
have good reason to be camera-shy.
468
00:57:00,350 --> 00:57:04,454
Hunted down,
only the wiliest crocs survive.
469
00:57:07,524 --> 00:57:11,494
It seemed that the team's
best chance was away from people.
470
00:57:11,595 --> 00:57:13,463
The peacekeepers had recommended
471
00:57:13,564 --> 00:57:17,700
the wild and mostly uninhabited
coast of Guadalcanal.
472
00:57:17,801 --> 00:57:22,371
On the tip-off of a large crocodile seen
laying up on this lonely stretch of beach,
473
00:57:22,473 --> 00:57:27,610
Wade set up his camera hide
one last time...
474
00:57:27,711 --> 00:57:30,213
and the long wait began.
475
00:57:36,954 --> 00:57:41,157
It's almost dawn. It's been a long, long,
long, long night. Absolutely nothing.
476
00:57:41,258 --> 00:57:45,228
All I've seen is a dog and some crabs.
477
00:57:45,329 --> 00:57:48,264
I can only figure that
the crocodile knows I'm here.
478
00:57:48,365 --> 00:57:50,566
He's a big, old, smart bugger, for sure,
479
00:57:50,667 --> 00:57:52,034
and if he's grown that big,
480
00:57:52,136 --> 00:57:54,170
it's obviously from being smart,
481
00:57:54,271 --> 00:57:56,372
and he's outsmarted me.
482
00:58:00,410 --> 00:58:02,912
Yet it was at dawn,
after a three-day vigil,
483
00:58:03,013 --> 00:58:07,917
that an impressive, three-metre
crocodile finally appeared.
484
00:58:10,454 --> 00:58:12,054
In the end, Wade only managed
485
00:58:12,156 --> 00:58:17,160
to record a few minutes of footage
of these camera-shy giants.
486
00:58:17,261 --> 00:58:20,396
But these images
were proof of the existence
487
00:58:20,497 --> 00:58:23,566
of large saltwater crocodiles
in the Solomons -
488
00:58:23,667 --> 00:58:27,603
the last living legends
in the South Pacific.
43566
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