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'Hamriyah Dock, Dubai,
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'an ordinary place
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with a special significance for me.'
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It was on this spot 20 years ago
that myself and my film crew
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stepped aboard a wooden dhow called
Al Sharma, which took us down the
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Persian Gulf and across to Bombay.
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It was day 18 of our series
Around The World In 80 Days.
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It was a journey that was to become
one of the most unforgettable
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in my 20 years of travelling.
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This traditional sailing ship known
as a dhow was my home for a week.
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It had no radio,
no radar, and no cabins.
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We slept on deck and
steered by the sun and the stars.
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We ate what the crew ate, augmented
by the occasional fish caught
on the end of a hook and line.
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'Just my luck the day I'm off
my food, I got two of the biggest
fish caught.'
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Our crew, all Indians from Gujarat,
soon became friends,
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laughing with me or more often at
me, showing me how and what to eat,
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even looking after me
when I was ill.
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HE GROANS
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'It certainly makes me forget
the pain I had.'
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It was only when the time came
to say goodbye
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that I realised how much
I was going to miss them.
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I've often wondered what happened to
the Al Sharma and her crew and her
captain, with whom we shared so much
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during that eight-day voyage,
so I've come back here
to try and find out.
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00:02:18,600 --> 00:02:25,680
Dubai, where our journey began,
has transformed itself in 20 years,
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growing literally by the minute.
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This is an offshore property scheme
to be built on sand and shale
regurgitated from the seabed.
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It's a new world, at least, that's
what the developers are calling it.
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Let me explain.
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I'm in the Persian Gulf
but I'm standing on Great Britain,
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but this Great Britain is man-made.
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When it's connected up
with over 300 other islands,
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it's going to be part of
a mind-boggling property complex
called, modestly, The World.
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This being Dubai, they're not
stopping there, they're already
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building a neighbour out there,
which is going to be called,
equally modestly, The Universe.
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00:03:02,160 --> 00:03:05,680
The dredgers and graders still have
plenty of work to do on this new
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world and so far, I can't see much
resemblance to anything in my atlas.
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00:03:11,080 --> 00:03:15,480
But the higher you go,
the more it begins to make sense.
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Isn't that South America
down there on the left,
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and Antarctica below it?
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00:03:23,920 --> 00:03:28,600
When it comes to fantastical
schemes, Dubai already has four.
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The newly-opened,
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1,500-room Atlantis Hotel resort
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is only one of the properties
built on a giant palm tree.
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To find out what life's like on a
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00:03:41,400 --> 00:03:46,920
palm tree, I visit John Kelly Quinn,
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00:03:46,920 --> 00:03:52,200
a Liverpudlian who lives tax free
in a gated community on Frond D.
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00:03:52,200 --> 00:03:55,200
This is the family room,
which leads out to the garden,
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which is obviously a beach, as you
can see, and the pool there.
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You've got your pool and the sea,
choice of bathing. That's
incredible. Fantastic.
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00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:06,880
Yeah, that is the sea, isn't it?
Yeah, that's not man-made.
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Everything else is.
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00:04:06,880 --> 00:04:10,000
That's quite natural.
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00:04:06,880 --> 00:04:10,000
Yeah. And all this sand, that's...
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This has all been
dredged up from the seabed.
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00:04:12,440 --> 00:04:15,240
As you can see, all the signature
villas over the water there.
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00:04:15,240 --> 00:04:18,920
Yes. They're rather grander. You've
got a lot of stars who live here.
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00:04:18,920 --> 00:04:20,760
Footballers? Lots of footballers.
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00:04:20,760 --> 00:04:22,640
Yeah? Beckham. Beckham?
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00:04:22,640 --> 00:04:24,680
I believe he's got a villa
here as well.
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00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:27,560
Simon Cowell, I believe has
got one here, Madonna. Oh.
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00:04:27,560 --> 00:04:29,320
I've never seen them.
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00:04:29,320 --> 00:04:31,160
Yeah. I'm looking forward to it.
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00:04:31,160 --> 00:04:34,920
Probably no Sheffield United
players. I'm sorry, Mike.
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00:04:36,920 --> 00:04:40,440
Modesty is not a word
you hear much in Dubai.
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00:04:40,440 --> 00:04:43,280
In the 20 years
since I was last here,
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00:04:43,280 --> 00:04:46,960
this has become a city
hooked on superlatives.
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Anything the rest of the world
can spend, Dubai can spend more.
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00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:54,480
Anything the world can build,
Dubai can build bigger.
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00:04:54,480 --> 00:05:00,200
This is the tallest building in the
world, about 700 metres right now.
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00:05:00,200 --> 00:05:02,280
That's about 2,200 feet,
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00:05:02,280 --> 00:05:04,320
and most people are speculating
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00:05:04,320 --> 00:05:08,320
that it's going to get up about
3,000 feet or about 900 metres.
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00:05:10,440 --> 00:05:14,360
Dubai has been called
Las Vegas on steroids.
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00:05:14,360 --> 00:05:17,280
There seems no limit
to its vaunting ambition
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00:05:17,280 --> 00:05:20,320
as it sets about creating
the city of the future.
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00:05:22,440 --> 00:05:27,600
In Dubai, nothing is impossible.
Whatever you want, you can have.
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00:05:29,560 --> 00:05:32,680
The last time I skied was ten years
ago in America,
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00:05:32,680 --> 00:05:36,480
but who needs the Rockies when you
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can have a metre of fresh-laid snow
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00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:37,960
every day of the year,
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00:05:37,960 --> 00:05:42,120
even when the temperature outside
is hot enough to fry an egg.
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00:05:51,200 --> 00:05:55,720
They don't manufacture much
in Dubai but snow they do make,
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30 tons a day, 10,000 tons a year.
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00:06:01,920 --> 00:06:05,240
Is this a miracle or a flagrant
waste of the earth's resources?
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00:06:05,240 --> 00:06:07,920
I'll think about that
as I go shopping.
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00:06:13,440 --> 00:06:15,880
The Emiratis love shopping.
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00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:19,240
They've turned their traditional
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00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:19,240
souks and bazaars
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00:06:19,240 --> 00:06:22,040
into state of the art
temples of consumerism
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00:06:22,040 --> 00:06:26,280
to which foreigners and locals alike
are irresistibly drawn.
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00:06:26,280 --> 00:06:31,640
Dubai hopes to attract ten million
tourists a year by 2010.
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00:06:33,160 --> 00:06:34,640
The symbol of their ambition
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00:06:34,640 --> 00:06:39,560
is the iconic and exclusive
Burj Al Arab Hotel.
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00:06:39,560 --> 00:06:44,960
At its gala opening, Tiger Woods
hit a golf ball off the helipad.
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00:06:46,480 --> 00:06:51,480
Forget five star, the Burj Al Arab
is a seven-star hotel.
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00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:55,880
And they should know,
they awarded the stars themselves.
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00:06:55,880 --> 00:06:59,000
Of course, there is a price to pay.
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00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,000
Welcome to your Presidential Suite.
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00:07:01,000 --> 00:07:04,480
Fantastic. This way is the
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00:07:01,000 --> 00:07:04,480
living room with the private cinema.
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00:07:04,480 --> 00:07:07,280
Hm, private cinema. Indeed, yes.
102
00:07:07,280 --> 00:07:10,880
How much would this...? Ha!
There's a bar in every room.
103
00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:13,840
How much would a place like this
set you back
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00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:16,160
if I wanted to stay for a week, say?
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00:07:16,160 --> 00:07:18,760
It is £10,000 a night.
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00:07:18,760 --> 00:07:21,400
A night? £10,000 a night, mm.
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00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:26,760
And if I wanted to stay
an hour, do a special rate?
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00:07:26,760 --> 00:07:28,160
No.
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00:07:29,880 --> 00:07:33,440
To get over the shock,
I head for the bar...
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00:07:33,440 --> 00:07:36,280
high on the 27th floor.
111
00:07:36,280 --> 00:07:41,560
It seems a bit unexciting
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00:07:36,280 --> 00:07:41,560
to have a beer here, I know, because
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00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:43,760
I've just seen
the Presidential Suite.
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00:07:43,760 --> 00:07:48,320
Yeah. At £10,000 a night,
so people have something a bit more
exotic here, do they?
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00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:52,720
People actually what having here is
the world's most expensive cocktail
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we have on offer.
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I would expect you would
in a hotel like this.
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00:07:57,760 --> 00:07:59,880
It's a very Dubai thing
that, isn't it?
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00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:04,520
To have the biggest and most
expensive, so what's in
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00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:04,520
the world's most expensive cocktail?
121
00:08:04,520 --> 00:08:08,720
It's made with 55-years-old
McClelland single malt Scotch whisky,
122
00:08:08,720 --> 00:08:13,040
and the idea behind is to have
a really outstanding extraordinary
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00:08:13,040 --> 00:08:16,240
cocktail and the name,
for instance, is 27-321.
124
00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:20,720
That symbolises the height
of Burj Al Arab, 321 metres,
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00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:24,120
and it's served on 27th floor
where we're sitting now in our bar.
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00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:26,520
So the name is the price
and the price is the name.
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00:08:26,520 --> 00:08:30,720
The price is the name,
that's £27,321?
128
00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,840
Dirhams. Oh, dirhams. Oh, well.
129
00:08:32,840 --> 00:08:36,120
In pounds, it's about £3,800. Yeah?
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00:08:36,120 --> 00:08:37,840
For a 55-year-old Scotch?
131
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I mean, that's daylight robbery.
132
00:08:39,880 --> 00:08:44,520
In the heart of the city
by the waterway they call The Creek,
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I'm relieved to find that there is
something left of the Dubai
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I remember 20 years ago.
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00:08:51,920 --> 00:08:55,000
Although the new city shimmers
in the background,
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00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:58,120
I've chosen to stay at one of oldest
hotels in Dubai,
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it's been here over 30 years.
138
00:09:04,400 --> 00:09:07,800
It's from here that I shall plan
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00:09:04,400 --> 00:09:07,800
the next step of my mission
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00:09:07,800 --> 00:09:11,320
to track down the Al Sharma
and the crew I got to know so well.
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00:09:14,280 --> 00:09:19,960
I've brought the original film
out with me, and it's here that
there are some important clues.
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'And you, everyone here,
is from the same part of India.'
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'Same country. Kutch Mandvi, yeah.'
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Kutch Mandvi, that's
the nearest thing to an address.
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00:09:31,880 --> 00:09:36,120
I know that Kutch is in
the northern part of India,
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and Mandvi is a town on its coast.
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That evening, I find myself
thinking about my old friends.
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Do they still live in Kutch Mandvi?
Are they alive or dead?
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20 years is a long time.
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I have a useful lead.
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00:09:53,680 --> 00:09:58,080
Close to the public beach on the
downmarket side of the Burj Al Arab
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is the offshore sailing club where
I'm to meet a Captain Bill Nelson.
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00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:06,400
As head of Ports And Customs
20 years ago,
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Bill helped me find a dhow.
155
00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,520
Captain Nelson is now 86
and in poor health.
156
00:10:13,520 --> 00:10:16,520
Despite all that,
he agrees to talk to me.
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00:10:16,520 --> 00:10:20,760
Captain Nelson, I think you didn't
find us the dhow directly,
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you got someone to help us.
That's right, Kamis, Kamis Mohammed,
159
00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:32,080
my assistant at the time.
I remember Kamis, very good,
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00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:32,080
helped us get provisions.
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00:10:32,080 --> 00:10:34,400
He's a very good fellow.
Is he still around?
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He is still around.
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00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:40,800
In fact, he's the boss
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at the control station at Port Dubai.
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00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:47,840
So, how would I get hold of him?
166
00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:47,840
Er...3-4-5-1-2-4-0.
167
00:10:47,840 --> 00:10:50,720
That is the operations room.
168
00:10:50,720 --> 00:10:56,520
3-4-5-1-2-4-0. OK, ops room.
169
00:10:56,520 --> 00:10:59,920
They will find him for you,
of that there's no doubt.
170
00:10:59,920 --> 00:11:02,720
He helped buy me a blow-up bed,
I think.
171
00:11:04,400 --> 00:11:09,360
Odd thing to go around with an
Emirati buying an inflatable bed
the first day you meet him.
172
00:11:09,360 --> 00:11:11,640
Yes. It was very comfortable.
173
00:11:11,640 --> 00:11:14,920
'My contact Kamis,
who works at the port,
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00:11:14,920 --> 00:11:16,400
'tells me the trading season
175
00:11:16,400 --> 00:11:18,600
'has just resumed
after the summer monsoon.
176
00:11:18,600 --> 00:11:21,040
'There are dhows heading all
over the Gulf
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00:11:21,040 --> 00:11:22,760
'down to Somalia and Zanzibar,
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00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:26,240
'and he's found one
going my way too.'
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00:11:32,400 --> 00:11:39,720
I associate Kamis with the old port
of Dubai where we took on last
minute supplies before setting out.
180
00:11:39,720 --> 00:11:42,000
It still fizzes with life.
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00:11:46,680 --> 00:11:50,320
I take an Abra,
a water taxi, across the Creek.
182
00:11:52,080 --> 00:11:56,360
This is one of the few pleasures
left in Dubai that's still cheap.
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00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:58,640
The journey costs only a few pence.
184
00:12:04,400 --> 00:12:07,240
I'm heading for the office
of Ports And Customs
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00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:10,480
to meet Kamis again after 20 years.
186
00:12:10,480 --> 00:12:12,520
I have high hopes.
187
00:12:12,520 --> 00:12:15,200
His HQ is right on the neck
of the Creek.
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00:12:15,200 --> 00:12:18,440
If Al Sharma has passed this way,
he should know.
189
00:12:18,440 --> 00:12:21,360
Ah-ha, could this be the man?
190
00:12:21,360 --> 00:12:23,440
Kamis. Michael.
191
00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:25,200
Hey! Welcome back.
192
00:12:25,200 --> 00:12:27,120
How are you? Long time. How are you?
193
00:12:27,120 --> 00:12:29,800
Fine, thank you. How are you?
194
00:12:27,120 --> 00:12:29,800
Well, I never!
195
00:12:29,800 --> 00:12:31,560
You don't look a day older.
196
00:12:31,560 --> 00:12:34,360
Thank you very much. You've got
197
00:12:31,560 --> 00:12:34,360
to say the same to me now.
198
00:12:34,360 --> 00:12:37,000
No, no. I'm all grey and old.
Great to see you.
199
00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:39,120
You're running the customs now,
I gather.
200
00:12:39,120 --> 00:12:42,840
I do. I do, and I'm an advisor now
in Dubai...
201
00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:46,800
Yeah. And I hear you're married now?
Yeah, enjoyed it. How many children?
202
00:12:46,800 --> 00:12:49,560
Two. Two boys. Ah, very nice.
203
00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:54,360
Do you know what happened to
Al Sharma, is it still sailing?
204
00:12:54,360 --> 00:12:57,080
And more importantly,
what happened to the crew?
205
00:12:57,080 --> 00:13:00,560
Unfortunately,
I don't know what happened.
206
00:13:00,560 --> 00:13:04,240
That was the last time,
I've seen Al Sharma and the crew.
207
00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:10,160
Right. So that day 20 years ago
when we sailed away from Dubai
208
00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:13,080
was the last you saw of me and
the last you saw of the boat. Yeah.
209
00:13:13,080 --> 00:13:15,520
Do you know where they were from?
From Gujarat.
210
00:13:15,520 --> 00:13:18,960
Gujarat, I remember that.
You will have to go to Bombay.
211
00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:24,240
Then from Bombay, you have to go to
Gujarat to ask for the family
by the name of Haroum.
212
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:28,320
They are the owners. Ah.
213
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:28,320
So they will remember their name.
214
00:13:28,320 --> 00:13:30,920
Probably you will be able to find...
215
00:13:30,920 --> 00:13:33,360
OK. Whatever you are
looking for with them.
216
00:13:33,360 --> 00:13:35,800
OK. Well, that's good.
217
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,240
I suppose I shouldn't expect the
218
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,240
pieces to fall together
219
00:13:39,240 --> 00:13:43,000
just like that but I can't disguise
a touch of disappointment.
220
00:13:46,560 --> 00:13:50,720
Maybe sensing this,
Kamis has laid on a surprise.
221
00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:55,800
Using his influence, he's persuaded
the crew of a dhow leaving Dubai
222
00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:57,760
to take me along for a ride.
223
00:13:57,760 --> 00:13:59,600
Oh. Ah.
224
00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:01,160
Hey. Yes!
225
00:14:01,160 --> 00:14:07,200
They're Iranians, carrying a full
cargo across to Bandar-e Bushehr
226
00:14:01,160 --> 00:14:07,200
on Iran's Gulf coast.
227
00:14:08,240 --> 00:14:12,720
For a few hours, I can relive
what once took me a week.
228
00:14:16,680 --> 00:14:20,240
'Will you write down...will you
write down...?'
229
00:14:20,240 --> 00:14:22,200
Me. When I was a baby.
230
00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:30,080
Well, this dhow isn't quite
as pretty as Al Sharma
231
00:14:30,080 --> 00:14:32,320
and I'm only on it for an afternoon,
232
00:14:32,320 --> 00:14:35,280
but already it brings back
intense feelings,
233
00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:38,840
the feelings of being away
from the rest of the world...
234
00:14:38,840 --> 00:14:42,360
And these guys I've only just met,
very cheerful, very friendly.
235
00:14:42,360 --> 00:14:46,080
And it was extraordinary on the
other dhow during the eight days,
236
00:14:46,080 --> 00:14:49,920
how mutual incomprehension in the
beginning gave way to friendship
237
00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:54,000
and then genuine affection by
the end because we relied on them.
238
00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,960
With all our technology
and our gadgets,
239
00:14:56,960 --> 00:15:00,320
we depended on their seafaring
skills to get us to Bombay.
240
00:15:00,320 --> 00:15:03,160
And I've never really had
a relationship like that
241
00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:04,880
with any other group of people,
242
00:15:04,880 --> 00:15:08,000
quite different from my own,
at any other time on my travels.
243
00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:11,240
It was a unique relationship and
that's why I want to try
244
00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:14,560
and find out if some of those guys
that we got to know so well
245
00:15:14,560 --> 00:15:16,400
at that time are still around.
246
00:15:28,120 --> 00:15:33,000
My next destination must be Mumbai,
Bombay as it was then,
247
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:36,280
and after that, Kutch Mandvi
is a strong possibility.
248
00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:38,160
But I don't want to go all that way
249
00:15:38,160 --> 00:15:41,200
unless I'm pretty sure
the captain and crew are there.
250
00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:44,840
Whatever happens,
I need a few more answers.
251
00:15:49,040 --> 00:15:51,960
'20 years ago,
I spent my first night in India
252
00:15:51,960 --> 00:15:56,600
'here at the Taj Hotel, grubby
and unshaven after a week at sea.'
253
00:15:56,600 --> 00:15:59,640
Welcome to the Taj, sir. Thank you.
254
00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:02,920
'This time I'm greeted with
the full VIP treatment,
255
00:16:02,920 --> 00:16:04,560
'garlanded with marigolds
256
00:16:04,560 --> 00:16:08,160
'before being shown to the Rajput
suite, which has a famous history.'
257
00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:11,040
The Rajput suite has had
quite a few celebrities
258
00:16:11,040 --> 00:16:13,160
who've stayed in it over the years.
259
00:16:13,160 --> 00:16:16,000
In fact John Lennon
and Yoko Ono stayed there,
260
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:20,440
and for five full nights they didn't
leave the room even once.
261
00:16:21,480 --> 00:16:25,520
Please, after you. Yes. Not like
262
00:16:21,480 --> 00:16:25,520
any hotel door I've ever known.
263
00:16:25,520 --> 00:16:27,880
Oh, right. It's quite grand.
264
00:16:27,880 --> 00:16:30,320
It is too actually.
265
00:16:27,880 --> 00:16:30,320
HE CHUCKLES
266
00:16:30,320 --> 00:16:33,200
I can see why he didn't want
to come out for five days.
267
00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:37,800
The entire suite is in
268
00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:37,800
a very Indian decor, as you can see.
269
00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:40,320
Yeah. The Rajput
was a dynasty in India,
270
00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,480
so the entire suite
is designed to give that feel.
271
00:16:43,480 --> 00:16:45,080
Yes, it does, doesn't it?
272
00:16:45,080 --> 00:16:49,480
So, it's unlike a hotel room,
it's like a palace, isn't it?
273
00:16:49,480 --> 00:16:53,440
It's absolutely fabulous, and
the swing is very reminiscent
274
00:16:53,440 --> 00:16:57,320
of the old days when queens liked
to sit and look at the ocean.
275
00:16:57,320 --> 00:16:59,560
Oh, lovely, lovely.
276
00:17:01,240 --> 00:17:04,040
That's amazing, I'll look
forward to that anyway.
277
00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:06,000
So my bags will be sent up,
will they?
278
00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,320
No. You're in room 276. Oh.
279
00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:11,080
All right.
280
00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,760
'News from room 276 is mixed.
281
00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:18,160
'I've drawn a blank with
Kamis' contact Haroum
282
00:17:18,160 --> 00:17:21,040
'but I've had a piece of luck.'
283
00:17:21,040 --> 00:17:25,080
I have got a lead which comes
from the BBC files
284
00:17:25,080 --> 00:17:29,360
of Around The World In 80 Days
and they tell us
285
00:17:29,360 --> 00:17:33,800
that Dukaran Murji And Sons
were...the brokers
286
00:17:33,800 --> 00:17:37,080
who organised Al Sharma's cargo.
287
00:17:37,080 --> 00:17:41,760
I talked to a man there called
Digant Joshi and he had inherited
288
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:46,040
this business from his father, and
he reckoned that he could find out
289
00:17:46,040 --> 00:17:48,160
some information about Al Sharma
290
00:17:48,160 --> 00:17:52,520
and about whether the crew are still
around, which is very good news.
291
00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:55,840
He said it'd take a couple of days,
he's got his business to run.
292
00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:58,560
But that was, I thought, a very good
bit of news,
293
00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:01,480
and hopefully something
will come through from him
294
00:18:01,480 --> 00:18:03,000
in the next couple of days.
295
00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:05,880
Very, very nice, it gives
me time to look around.
296
00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:14,720
'This is Churchgate Station, one of
Mumbai's busiest commuter terminals.
297
00:18:14,720 --> 00:18:18,000
'A lady called Jyoti Namasti
has agreed to meet me here
298
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,560
'and throw me into the city
at the deep end.'
299
00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:23,360
How many people
cram on these trains every day?
300
00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:27,320
6 million to 6.5 million people
travel every day
301
00:18:27,320 --> 00:18:29,520
from north Bombay to south Bombay
302
00:18:29,520 --> 00:18:32,440
and the same number back home
in the evening.
303
00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:35,600
We've been described
as sardines in a box.
304
00:18:35,600 --> 00:18:39,080
'But believe it or not,
this is the quiet time of day,
305
00:18:39,080 --> 00:18:42,160
'the time to
see the tiffin wallahs in action.
306
00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:45,400
'They carry on their heads
a half million lunchboxes
307
00:18:45,400 --> 00:18:48,520
'containing hot meals
made by beautiful housewives
308
00:18:48,520 --> 00:18:50,400
'for their husbands in the city.'
309
00:18:50,400 --> 00:18:54,400
They will collect it,
push it on the trains in the suburbs.
310
00:18:54,400 --> 00:18:56,880
It takes about half an hour
or an hour for it
311
00:18:56,880 --> 00:18:59,680
to come to Churchgate Station
that you see here.
312
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:04,520
Outside the station,
the daily miracle begins.
313
00:19:04,520 --> 00:19:09,440
The tiffin wallahs carry the lunches
across a busy road to be sorted.
314
00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:12,000
How they're sorted is a mystery,
315
00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:15,360
for the lunchboxes bear
neither names nor addresses.
316
00:19:16,360 --> 00:19:19,000
The second counterpart
will take it out,
317
00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:22,880
and the third man will reshuffle
all the tins away out.
318
00:19:22,880 --> 00:19:26,400
That's what they're doing, that's
what the systematic chaos is.
319
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:29,200
The third man that reshuffle,
he puts two tins there,
320
00:19:29,200 --> 00:19:31,760
one there, and he takes three
from there, four from there.
321
00:19:31,760 --> 00:19:34,560
So they've been brought
from different suburbs,
322
00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:38,440
they've been reshuffled here,
and they go to different offices.
323
00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:41,720
But don't they lose the tiffin every
now and then? Not at all.
324
00:19:41,720 --> 00:19:45,480
One in a trillion.
One in a trillion is lost?
325
00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:49,960
American magazine Forbes says the
accuracy rate is 99.999%. Fantastic.
326
00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:53,680
They have been given the Six Sigma
accuracy rate, as much as Motorola
327
00:19:53,680 --> 00:19:57,400
and General Electric, and only in
Mumbai, nowhere else in the world.
328
00:19:57,400 --> 00:20:00,960
They tried to call them to Italy
to have a system put there,
329
00:20:00,960 --> 00:20:04,240
and they said, "Your trains are not
on time, so we can't do it."
330
00:20:06,360 --> 00:20:09,840
Prince Charles was here,
he wanted to see them in action,
331
00:20:09,840 --> 00:20:13,920
and he was so happy.
He gave three of them a free ticket
332
00:20:13,920 --> 00:20:16,640
to come to his second marriage
to England. Really?
333
00:20:19,400 --> 00:20:22,520
Do you think it's a bit selfish
of the Indian men
334
00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:26,280
to expect a hot meal
every lunchtime delivered to them?
335
00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:29,080
Well, it's still
a woman's privilege to cook,
336
00:20:29,080 --> 00:20:30,720
and men in India...
337
00:20:30,720 --> 00:20:34,280
this is a male-dominated country,
to a certain extent.
338
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:36,200
Times are changing very fast,
339
00:20:36,200 --> 00:20:38,880
but then they would love
to have a hot meal.
340
00:20:38,880 --> 00:20:41,000
They are a little spoilt, Indian men,
341
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:43,120
so they expect a hot
meal from the wife.
342
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:46,200
Like, I am working,
he still gets a hot meal.
343
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:49,480
It's an example of the paradox
that is Mumbai,
344
00:20:49,480 --> 00:20:53,720
a state of chaos in which
everyone knows what they're doing.
345
00:20:53,720 --> 00:20:57,760
Like this laundry,
to which Jyoti has brought me
346
00:20:57,760 --> 00:21:00,520
for practical
as well as scenic reasons.
347
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:07,760
It's quite an extraordinary place.
348
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:07,760
This is the biggest open-air laundry
349
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:09,000
unique to Mumbai,
350
00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:12,800
where the dhobis or the washermen
wash the clothes here.
351
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:17,640
There are 500 of them and this
is the biggest laundry in Mumbai.
352
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:27,480
The stone is supplied to him
by the government.
353
00:21:27,480 --> 00:21:29,800
It's passed on from father to son.
354
00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:35,240
They pay nothing for the stone.
He uses a cake of soap, not of a very
high quality, but see the clothes.
355
00:21:35,240 --> 00:21:37,160
They're sparklingly white.
356
00:21:37,160 --> 00:21:39,720
I actually had
this quite good pair of trousers
357
00:21:39,720 --> 00:21:41,880
and we were filming
in Dubai on the dhow
358
00:21:41,880 --> 00:21:45,400
and the dhow's absolutely covered
in tar and they're a real mess.
359
00:21:45,400 --> 00:21:47,680
Could they do them here,
do you think?
360
00:21:47,680 --> 00:21:50,600
Oh, yes, the dhobis do
an excellent job. Yeah.
361
00:21:50,600 --> 00:21:54,360
You will see them, see the whiteness
of the clothes, see the dirty water,
362
00:21:54,360 --> 00:21:57,760
and they will wash it. In five
minutes, it will dry in the hot sun.
363
00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:01,640
And they iron it for you and
send it back to your hotel.
364
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
Let's see how the mark is.
365
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
Here they are, shall I show them
366
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
to you? There we are.
367
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:08,720
You see it's on the back there.
368
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:12,360
No problems. That's oil, isn't it?
369
00:22:12,360 --> 00:22:16,720
It is oil. The washing machine
will not take it out, but the dhobis
will do an excellent job.
370
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:20,240
I thought I was going to have
to throw them away.
371
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:22,960
Hello, hello, erm...
372
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,080
Look at that, oil, I think.
373
00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:28,560
Oil, tar,
is it possible to save the trousers?
374
00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:31,040
Yes, he will. There he goes...
375
00:22:31,040 --> 00:22:33,320
Giving them a go, yeah.
376
00:22:33,320 --> 00:22:35,880
With the brush,
with the cake of soap. Yeah.
377
00:22:35,880 --> 00:22:38,000
And he will hit it.
378
00:22:42,120 --> 00:22:48,760
We've got at home, we've got a whole
cupboard, my wife's got stain
removers...every kind of stain.
379
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:50,760
Oh, they don't work in India.
380
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:53,320
No. This works. This works.
381
00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:58,000
So, he's washed them now,
and now he's...
382
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:01,000
Hitting it on the stone,
the dirt comes out.
383
00:23:03,200 --> 00:23:07,680
The buttons are broken, your wife
will have to redo the buttons.
384
00:23:07,680 --> 00:23:11,240
Don't say that, I'll do them myself.
Yes, I know what you mean.
385
00:23:11,240 --> 00:23:14,240
So, that's the price you pay
for getting them really clean.
386
00:23:14,240 --> 00:23:17,600
Has he done it? Yes. He's putting
387
00:23:14,240 --> 00:23:17,600
it in the clean water now.
388
00:23:17,600 --> 00:23:19,560
He's dipped it in the clean water.
389
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:22,320
Brilliant. I wish I'd brought
all my laundry.
390
00:23:22,320 --> 00:23:24,080
None of the clothes are lost.
391
00:23:24,080 --> 00:23:28,200
Maybe a few buttons are broken,
that's the only thing. Yeah.
392
00:23:28,200 --> 00:23:32,680
I tell you, never better. Thank you.
393
00:23:32,680 --> 00:23:34,640
They've never looked cleaner.
394
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:40,240
'I return to the heart of Mumbai,
395
00:23:40,240 --> 00:23:45,920
'crisp and spotless in the trouser
area to the Cafe Leopold.
396
00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:49,600
'It's cheap and cheerful,
and I'm told is a favourite haunt
397
00:23:49,600 --> 00:23:54,040
'of talent spotters looking for
Western extras for Bollywood films.
398
00:23:56,680 --> 00:24:00,040
'Ah, my luck is in.
399
00:24:00,040 --> 00:24:05,720
'All I need now is to make myself
look irresistible, but...subtly.'
400
00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:29,680
Hello. Hi, there. Hi. Michael.
401
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:31,240
I'm Wasim. How are you?
402
00:24:31,240 --> 00:24:34,520
I'm very well, very well. I'm
sitting waiting to be discovered.
403
00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:37,120
You are? Yes, I'm told
that's what happens here.
404
00:24:37,120 --> 00:24:39,080
I'm actually a coordinator myself.
405
00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:43,840
Ah. Yes, I'm coordinating
406
00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:43,840
for some extras in a Bollywood movie.
And what pay do they get?
407
00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,240
They would be paid around 1,000
rupees for an eight hours' job,
408
00:24:47,240 --> 00:24:48,800
normally six to eight hours.
409
00:24:48,800 --> 00:24:50,760
£10?
410
00:24:50,760 --> 00:24:52,280
That's slave labour.
411
00:24:52,280 --> 00:24:55,200
That's 1,000 rupees and
that's a lot of money in India.
412
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:57,840
What if you have a dialogue
part, what if you've got words?
413
00:24:57,840 --> 00:25:00,120
It's the same thing.
Is it? More or less, yes.
414
00:25:00,120 --> 00:25:04,840
So what kind of part would you see
a 65-year-old man like me playing?
415
00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:08,960
Maybe a manager, a big cog
in a big office, you know. Really?
416
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:11,400
CEO of a big company,
like Microsoft or something.
417
00:25:11,400 --> 00:25:14,840
CEO, now you're talking.
CEO, that's right.
418
00:25:14,840 --> 00:25:17,320
Right on. I usually only do vicars.
419
00:25:18,360 --> 00:25:20,960
'I don't get the part,
our dates clashed,
420
00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:22,920
'but I do get something better,
421
00:25:22,920 --> 00:25:26,800
'the chance to meet one of the
legendary figures of Bollywood,
422
00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:29,680
'writer producer and director
Mahesh Bhatt.
423
00:25:29,680 --> 00:25:31,960
'He's currently shooting a new film
424
00:25:31,960 --> 00:25:34,480
'at a beachside villa
outside Mumbai.'
425
00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:36,280
Hello, Michael! Come, come.
426
00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:39,160
Ah, Mahesh, what an honour
to meet you.
427
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:40,760
Thank you very much indeed.
428
00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,080
Hello, nice to meet you.
Hello, how are you?
429
00:25:43,080 --> 00:25:45,520
How was your journey, a long drive?
430
00:25:45,520 --> 00:25:48,800
Yes, yes, yes. Come into my parlour.
431
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:53,200
Come into my parlour
said the spider to the fly. Ah.
432
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:55,560
The fly will be on camera.
433
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:02,960
'Mahesh Bhatt's latest film
is called Jashn, Celebration.'
434
00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:06,760
The sea will not have an animal...
435
00:26:06,760 --> 00:26:10,640
'The picture features Bollywood
starlet Shahana Goswami
436
00:26:10,640 --> 00:26:13,800
'and Pakistani heart-throb
Humayun Saeed.'
437
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:19,440
Do you know your fellow actors?
No, we've all met for the first
438
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:19,440
time...the first time we've met.
439
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:24,560
In fact, one of them has just
been killed. Terribly sorry,
440
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:24,560
you got the part.
441
00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:28,040
Oh, dear. Nothing to do with us,
442
00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:28,040
was it?
443
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:37,160
It's become quite a fad to be
in this industry
444
00:26:37,160 --> 00:26:41,120
and people are leaving
their investment banking jobs
445
00:26:41,120 --> 00:26:45,680
and coming into, you know,
being ADs for 10,000 rupees
446
00:26:45,680 --> 00:26:47,520
from the 20 like jobs.
447
00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:51,880
So, it's quite inviting and I think
everyone wants to be kind of
448
00:26:51,880 --> 00:26:56,200
in the field, if not necessarily
an actor or an actress, but yes,
449
00:26:56,200 --> 00:26:59,800
there's a huge influx of
people coming into this world.
450
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:01,120
Silent, silent.
451
00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:06,840
'Mahesh may be a Bollywood veteran
but his appetite for film seems
undiminished.'
452
00:27:06,840 --> 00:27:08,000
Action.
453
00:27:11,720 --> 00:27:15,040
'He's seen Bollywood evolve from
escapist song and dance spectaculars
454
00:27:15,040 --> 00:27:19,080
'to more realistic dramas like
the one they're shooting today.'
455
00:27:21,280 --> 00:27:23,600
Cut it...very good.
456
00:27:24,600 --> 00:27:28,800
'In an industry where an on-screen
kiss was taboo for years,
457
00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:32,920
'Mahesh has been a liberating,
often controversial figure.'
458
00:27:32,920 --> 00:27:35,160
I am one of those film-makers
who's been accused
459
00:27:35,160 --> 00:27:39,680
of introducing soft porn to
Bollywood, and I plead guilty to
that, if you call it soft porn.
460
00:27:39,680 --> 00:27:45,640
If we had to seduce the consumer
into the cinema halls, we needed to
change the way we were making movies.
461
00:27:45,640 --> 00:27:49,040
So we kind of eroticised our movies,
462
00:27:49,040 --> 00:27:54,360
we put in this sexual component
a little more stronger
463
00:27:54,360 --> 00:28:00,400
than it was used by predecessors,
and we kind of raised the bar.
464
00:28:00,400 --> 00:28:02,520
Can you give me an example of this,
465
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:05,240
like you see
a couple in bed together?
466
00:28:05,240 --> 00:28:12,280
Yeah, I mean you had passionate
kisses now and you also had...
467
00:28:12,280 --> 00:28:14,280
premarital sex.
468
00:28:14,280 --> 00:28:17,120
You also had live-in couples.
469
00:28:17,120 --> 00:28:23,640
We also had a man and woman getting
into multi-partner relationship,
470
00:28:23,640 --> 00:28:25,880
so all that started happening,
471
00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:29,320
and that was what
the young felt comfortable with
472
00:28:29,320 --> 00:28:31,360
because that was their life.
473
00:28:31,360 --> 00:28:34,200
And I would say that
the younger generation
474
00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:37,560
is less hypocritical
than the earlier generation.
475
00:28:37,560 --> 00:28:41,640
The earlier lot wanted sex but
it wanted it through the back door.
476
00:28:41,640 --> 00:28:44,400
The mantra of our predecessors
477
00:28:44,400 --> 00:28:48,400
was good people fall in love,
bad people have sex.
478
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:04,440
Back in the city, I've had a call
479
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:04,440
back from my contact Digant Joshi.
480
00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:10,520
He runs the biggest dhow operation
in Mumbai from his HQ in the
busy streets near Princess Dock.
481
00:29:14,880 --> 00:29:20,440
His head office,
I eventually find it, is hardly what
you'd expect of a shipping mogul.
482
00:29:20,440 --> 00:29:24,040
Digant's information
is not at first encouraging.
483
00:29:24,040 --> 00:29:25,920
What news of Al Sharma?
484
00:29:25,920 --> 00:29:30,440
Al Sharma, when you were there
20 years back,
485
00:29:30,440 --> 00:29:33,520
the owner was Taled Mohammed.
486
00:29:33,520 --> 00:29:38,320
They went bankrupt
and he cannot maintain the launch.
487
00:29:38,320 --> 00:29:44,200
So, just eight months, nine months
back, he sold it to someone else,
488
00:29:44,200 --> 00:29:48,760
and that person was taking
the launch from Veraval,
489
00:29:48,760 --> 00:29:52,000
Gujarat to Jamsala for the repairing.
490
00:29:52,000 --> 00:29:54,480
Hm. During that voyage,
491
00:29:54,480 --> 00:30:00,400
Al Sharma sank into
the waters, six to eight months back.
492
00:30:00,400 --> 00:30:02,240
So I just missed seeing it.
493
00:30:02,240 --> 00:30:06,240
Just missed.
And did the crew survive?
494
00:30:06,240 --> 00:30:09,280
Crew were saved by another launch...
495
00:30:10,800 --> 00:30:14,280
..which was plying
along with Al Sharma.
496
00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:18,840
Would this be the same crew
that I sailed with 20 years ago?
497
00:30:18,840 --> 00:30:22,400
Different crew because
the owner sold it to somebody else
498
00:30:22,400 --> 00:30:24,240
and all the crew were changed.
499
00:30:24,240 --> 00:30:27,040
Any news of Captain Suliman
and the crew?
500
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:29,760
Captain Suliman is in Mandvi.
501
00:30:29,760 --> 00:30:31,320
Kutch. Mandvi.
502
00:30:31,320 --> 00:30:36,200
Mandvi has two portions, one is a
Mandvi and one is a Salaya Mandvi.
503
00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:39,560
Right. Which is near the sea.
504
00:30:39,560 --> 00:30:42,520
So you can go to Salaya Mandvi
505
00:30:42,520 --> 00:30:46,280
and ask anybody about the captain
of Al Sharma,
506
00:30:46,280 --> 00:30:50,040
Suliman,
and you can easily get about.
507
00:30:50,040 --> 00:30:52,600
What's the best way
of getting to Mandvi?
508
00:30:52,600 --> 00:30:58,320
You can take train from Mumbai
which goes to Bhuj. Yeah.
509
00:30:58,320 --> 00:31:00,800
The train name is Kutch Express.
510
00:31:00,800 --> 00:31:06,360
You can go to Bhuj and from Bhuj,
the Mandvi is 60 kilometres
away from Bhuj.
511
00:31:06,360 --> 00:31:10,920
'One thing Indians take
very seriously is astrology.
512
00:31:10,920 --> 00:31:14,480
'Before I leave, there's someone
I'd very much like to meet again.
513
00:31:14,480 --> 00:31:17,800
'Janjit Upall was
the hotel's resident astrologer
514
00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:21,960
'and when I consulted him 20 years
ago, he was uncannily accurate.'
515
00:31:21,960 --> 00:31:27,080
Can you tell me now
what lies in store for me
in the next two or three months?
516
00:31:27,080 --> 00:31:30,720
As it's boat sailing, it's
a pleasant journey and on schedule.
517
00:31:30,720 --> 00:31:33,800
If not you may even try
to complete it ahead of schedule.
518
00:31:33,800 --> 00:31:38,160
If you've lost some time,
there are more possibilities
of your recovering that time.
519
00:31:38,160 --> 00:31:40,360
You are full of
a spirit of adventure.
520
00:31:40,360 --> 00:31:43,680
He's agreed to give me an update.
521
00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:48,280
We're hoping to try and find
the crew of Al Sharma.
522
00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:51,760
Have you any idea from the charts
and what you find out
523
00:31:51,760 --> 00:31:55,200
whether we will find them,
whether we'll be lucky?
524
00:31:55,200 --> 00:31:57,080
Yes, you will, you will.
525
00:31:57,080 --> 00:32:00,920
You will find them and you
will get interesting input too.
526
00:32:00,920 --> 00:32:02,800
Will they be pleased to see me?
527
00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:05,400
Very much pleased to see you.
528
00:32:05,400 --> 00:32:06,920
Very much pleased to see you.
529
00:32:06,920 --> 00:32:11,960
I was going to ask you about, you
know you saw me 20 years ago,
530
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:13,520
and with chart like that,
531
00:32:13,520 --> 00:32:16,400
can you tell enough
to talk about my character?
532
00:32:16,400 --> 00:32:20,000
Do you have any sort of
feelings about that? Yes.
533
00:32:20,000 --> 00:32:23,520
According to your chart, you come
over as a very emotional person.
534
00:32:23,520 --> 00:32:27,320
Very emotional, family oriented,
535
00:32:27,320 --> 00:32:29,880
I would say even a spiritual person.
536
00:32:29,880 --> 00:32:34,520
I mean you read more meaning to life
than what is apparent.
537
00:32:34,520 --> 00:32:36,440
You question life,
538
00:32:36,440 --> 00:32:39,080
and I must say that your work,
the journeys around the world
539
00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:43,720
to the mountains, to north world,
Himalayas, Tibet,
540
00:32:43,720 --> 00:32:45,720
it was not only a journey
541
00:32:45,720 --> 00:32:48,480
to make something
spectacular which you have made,
542
00:32:48,480 --> 00:32:50,400
but it was a journey within the self.
543
00:32:50,400 --> 00:32:52,360
It was rediscovering yourself.
544
00:32:52,360 --> 00:32:56,280
So do you think that this travelling
that I've done in the 20 years
545
00:32:56,280 --> 00:32:59,000
since I saw you,
which I never expected to do,
546
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:01,120
is that part of an ongoing process?
547
00:33:01,120 --> 00:33:03,880
Do you think I'll ever just say,
"Stop, that's it?"
548
00:33:03,880 --> 00:33:05,960
No, it's an ongoing process.
549
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:08,840
Journeys will carry on and
you will keep travelling.
550
00:33:08,840 --> 00:33:11,080
That's part of your nature.
551
00:33:11,080 --> 00:33:13,200
Do you hear that, Helen? Sorry.
552
00:33:14,720 --> 00:33:16,120
The journey goes on.
553
00:33:18,480 --> 00:33:20,600
'The journey goes north now.
554
00:33:20,600 --> 00:33:26,520
'I find myself booked on the Kutch
Express under the name of Mr Polin.
555
00:33:26,520 --> 00:33:28,040
'I only hope that's me.
556
00:33:36,480 --> 00:33:40,680
'The overnight sleeper will take me
northwest via Ahmedabad in Gujarat
557
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:45,800
'to the terminus at Bhuj, capital of
the old princely state of Kutch,
558
00:33:45,800 --> 00:33:49,680
'close to the Pakistan border.'
559
00:34:01,120 --> 00:34:03,680
I think I'm up there.
560
00:34:03,680 --> 00:34:06,000
Hello, can I squeeze in? Thank you.
561
00:34:06,000 --> 00:34:09,680
No, no. Thank you very much,
that's very kind.
562
00:34:09,680 --> 00:34:12,720
Sit with the little girl.
A boy or girl?
563
00:34:12,720 --> 00:34:14,600
Girl. A girl, yeah.
564
00:34:14,600 --> 00:34:17,240
And what's your name?
565
00:34:17,240 --> 00:34:19,040
Vanya. Vanya.
566
00:34:19,040 --> 00:34:20,560
She loves trains. Yes.
567
00:34:20,560 --> 00:34:23,040
Very good, yes.
568
00:34:34,880 --> 00:34:39,200
Thank you, very good.
Thank you very much.
569
00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:41,080
Five. Five, thank you.
570
00:34:41,080 --> 00:34:43,160
Anyone else want one?
571
00:35:03,640 --> 00:35:05,800
'As dawn breaks,
we're in Gujarat,
572
00:35:05,800 --> 00:35:08,680
'home state
of the hero of Indian Independence,
573
00:35:08,680 --> 00:35:13,480
'Mahatma Gandhi, and hopefully
the crew of Al Sharma as well.
574
00:35:13,480 --> 00:35:18,480
'We've come a long way north
in the night to a part of India
I don't know.'
575
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:37,840
This is Gandhidham Junction because
Gandhi was born very near here
576
00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:40,080
and of course he died.
577
00:35:40,080 --> 00:35:44,960
He was assassinated exactly 60
years ago, the Father of India,
578
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:49,400
so, a rather important man
from the Gujarat point of view.
579
00:35:49,400 --> 00:35:52,120
It's also why Gujarat is dry,
a dry state.
580
00:35:52,120 --> 00:35:55,840
He encouraged the men not
to drink cos it was bad for them.
581
00:35:55,840 --> 00:36:01,120
So it's dry, and from what I hear,
largely vegetarian as well.
582
00:36:01,120 --> 00:36:03,400
The people are supposed to be
very jolly.
583
00:36:04,960 --> 00:36:07,640
'The Kutch Express is running
over an hour late,
584
00:36:07,640 --> 00:36:11,720
'but we're up country now and
no-one seems in much of a hurry.
585
00:36:15,000 --> 00:36:19,200
'Nor does it help that stretches of
the railway are single track,
586
00:36:19,200 --> 00:36:22,000
'though still maintained
with meticulous zeal
587
00:36:22,000 --> 00:36:25,720
'not a little reminiscent
of the old days of the Raj.
588
00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:50,720
'20 stops and 15 hours
after leaving Mumbai,
589
00:36:50,720 --> 00:36:54,000
'we reach the end
590
00:36:50,720 --> 00:36:54,000
of the line at the town of Bhuj.
591
00:37:00,040 --> 00:37:06,200
'Bhuj is the capital of Kutch,
and I take a couple of hours to look
around before going on to Mandvi.
592
00:37:10,840 --> 00:37:13,320
'There are some fine buildings
to see in Bhuj,
593
00:37:13,320 --> 00:37:17,160
'but few of them escaped
the devastating earthquake
594
00:37:17,160 --> 00:37:20,840
that shook the town on January 21,
2001, Republic Day,
595
00:37:20,840 --> 00:37:22,600
'when the people of Bhuj,
596
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:25,760
'like the rest of the country,
should have been celebrating.
597
00:37:33,160 --> 00:37:37,040
'There was a colossal loss of life
and no-one was untouched.
598
00:37:37,040 --> 00:37:40,520
'The Mahara of Kutch lost
three-quarters of his palace,
599
00:37:40,520 --> 00:37:45,000
'and what remains standing looks as
if it could fall down any minute.
600
00:37:47,880 --> 00:37:51,400
'Now the only occupants
of its marble halls are birds
601
00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:53,760
'that nest in the rotting ceilings.
602
00:38:01,440 --> 00:38:04,000
'Portraits stare into the void,
603
00:38:04,000 --> 00:38:07,840
'and dust covers the trophies
of an era long past.
604
00:38:14,200 --> 00:38:18,600
'Out in the centre of Bhuj, optimism
has returned to the rebuilt streets
605
00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:21,600
'and people don't talk much
about the earthquake.
606
00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,080
'But no-one's forgotten.
607
00:38:23,080 --> 00:38:26,960
'Manjana Maycha has not forgotten.'
608
00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:30,680
They started shouting, "Earthquake,
earthquake," and I came out.
609
00:38:30,680 --> 00:38:32,840
Yeah. As soon as I came out,
610
00:38:32,840 --> 00:38:34,800
the shop was collapsed.
611
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:37,920
The shop you'd just been in
612
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:37,920
collapsed behind you? Behind me.
613
00:38:37,920 --> 00:38:42,120
You were a second away from being
crushed yourself. Yes, yes, yes.
614
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:45,280
And what was the scene
outside here, were just people...
615
00:38:45,280 --> 00:38:50,400
They started running
and crying and shouting.
616
00:38:50,400 --> 00:38:56,360
People, animals, dogs,
just running here and there.
617
00:38:56,360 --> 00:38:58,320
What did you do, did you just run?
618
00:38:58,320 --> 00:39:00,920
No, I just went
and stand in the corner.
619
00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:03,240
Oh, you must have prayed,
did you pray?
620
00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:06,600
Yes, yes, of course.
621
00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:06,600
SHE LAUGHS
622
00:39:06,600 --> 00:39:10,120
Well, your prayers were answered
cos you're still here,
623
00:39:10,120 --> 00:39:12,600
but it was awful for the town,
wasn't it?
624
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:16,280
I mean, it was a big loss of life.
Yes.
625
00:39:16,280 --> 00:39:18,760
Nearly 100,000.
626
00:39:18,760 --> 00:39:20,320
Nearly 100,000?
627
00:39:20,320 --> 00:39:22,840
All the locals.
All over Kutch. Yeah.
628
00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:29,080
'The one thing I miss
as I walk these hot streets
629
00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:31,640
'is a refreshing glass of cold beer.
630
00:39:31,640 --> 00:39:34,840
'I'm told there's only
one place I might get one.'
631
00:39:34,840 --> 00:39:38,120
Gujarat is the only
dry state in the whole of India
632
00:39:38,120 --> 00:39:41,280
but if you're a foreigner,
you can get an exemption,
633
00:39:41,280 --> 00:39:44,960
and I'm told that I have to turn up
with a copy of my passport,
634
00:39:44,960 --> 00:39:47,480
which I've got,
a little note of that,
635
00:39:47,480 --> 00:39:50,520
and also a certificate
of where I'm staying.
636
00:39:50,520 --> 00:39:54,040
So I'm going to see if I can
get a permit for the time I'm here,
637
00:39:54,040 --> 00:39:57,760
see whether the system of
exemptions really works.
638
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:01,000
'The surroundings
aren't exactly convivial.'
639
00:40:01,000 --> 00:40:02,760
Give me your passport.
640
00:40:06,040 --> 00:40:11,680
He's writing down the place where
I shall be staying in...Mandvi.
641
00:40:23,560 --> 00:40:25,600
Getting thirsty.
642
00:40:46,720 --> 00:40:49,160
Still get a stamp in your passport.
643
00:40:49,160 --> 00:40:51,200
You will sign here. OK.
644
00:40:56,360 --> 00:41:00,040
What do I do now?
Where do I buy the liquor?
645
00:41:00,040 --> 00:41:02,680
Just here. Oh, right, I'm sorry.
646
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:07,800
I didn't see that at all. OK. Hello.
647
00:41:07,800 --> 00:41:09,880
What do we think?
648
00:41:09,880 --> 00:41:12,160
Ten beers, one spirit?
649
00:41:12,160 --> 00:41:15,400
OK, fine. The spirit's for him.
650
00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:21,360
'Well, at last I have the beer,
but I'm not allowed to drink it
651
00:41:21,360 --> 00:41:25,640
'until I'm at my hotel,
and that's another 40 miles away.
652
00:41:31,160 --> 00:41:34,960
'Mandvi, coastal town,
45,000 inhabitants,
653
00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:37,560
'main business, shipbuilding.
654
00:41:37,560 --> 00:41:42,640
'Best-kept secret, resort hotel
right by the beach.'
655
00:41:44,160 --> 00:41:46,360
You can see it, yeah.
Good afternoon.
656
00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:48,560
Good afternoon, thank you.
657
00:41:48,560 --> 00:41:52,120
Thanks very much,
I hope that will cover it.
658
00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:53,920
Thank you.
659
00:41:53,920 --> 00:41:57,120
Good. It's a dangerous ride.
660
00:41:57,120 --> 00:42:00,800
'The grandly-named
Mandvi Palace Beach Resort
661
00:42:00,800 --> 00:42:02,520
'may turn out to be a row of tents
662
00:42:02,520 --> 00:42:07,120
'but these are no ordinary tents,
these are five-star tents.
663
00:42:07,120 --> 00:42:10,520
'Possibly even seven-star tents.
664
00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:14,560
'Each one has a double bed,
en-suite bathroom and loo,
665
00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:16,240
'and air conditioning.
666
00:42:16,240 --> 00:42:18,320
'Oh, it's a tough life.'
667
00:42:18,320 --> 00:42:21,040
Thank you very much. Oh!
668
00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:23,840
Cool, cool, lovely, cool.
669
00:42:26,160 --> 00:42:29,720
'And in the evening
with the sun well over the yardarm,
670
00:42:29,720 --> 00:42:33,200
'I finally get around to that beer.
671
00:42:41,800 --> 00:42:44,640
'Now, what exactly am I doing here?
672
00:42:49,440 --> 00:42:51,560
'This tented camp was first set up
673
00:42:51,560 --> 00:42:55,360
'by the Mahara of Kutch
to accommodate those private guests
674
00:42:55,360 --> 00:42:58,280
'who'd come to visit
him at his country palace,
675
00:42:58,280 --> 00:43:00,680
'which is right next door
to the camp...
676
00:43:00,680 --> 00:43:02,640
'and open to the public.
677
00:43:05,280 --> 00:43:09,600
'Having never met a Mahara before,
I decide to pay him a visit.
678
00:43:28,080 --> 00:43:31,440
'By the time I reach the palace,
I'm getting a bit twitchy,
679
00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,280
'but my gosh is it worth the walk!'
680
00:43:37,840 --> 00:43:40,360
Did your family have this
specially designed?
681
00:43:40,360 --> 00:43:43,200
'The Mahara, or to give him
his full title,
682
00:43:43,200 --> 00:43:46,280
'His Highness Sri Pragmalji
Mandansinji III,
683
00:43:46,280 --> 00:43:49,880
'couldn't have been more friendly
as he invites me in.
684
00:43:51,960 --> 00:43:55,160
'He is descended
from a very old Kutch family,
685
00:43:55,160 --> 00:43:59,280
'and talks nostalgically of the days
of an independent Kutch
686
00:43:59,280 --> 00:44:01,840
'before it was absorbed into Gujarat
687
00:44:01,840 --> 00:44:04,560
'and had to accept a less relaxed
regime.'
688
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:11,640
Do you think that there's any
good reason why people shouldn't
689
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:11,640
buy alcohol in Kutch or Gujarat?
690
00:44:11,640 --> 00:44:15,200
There is a slight problem here.
691
00:44:15,200 --> 00:44:17,640
Kutch is a part of
Gujarat state,
692
00:44:17,640 --> 00:44:22,080
which we were not a part of Gujarat
state ever in the history.
693
00:44:23,600 --> 00:44:28,360
And Gujarat state unfortunately
is Gandhian in the sense
694
00:44:28,360 --> 00:44:32,880
that they believe in prohibition
and things like that,
695
00:44:32,880 --> 00:44:37,280
which is not necessarily
very congenial to tourism.
696
00:44:37,280 --> 00:44:43,920
Mahatma Gandhi probably thought that
a lot of people wasted their income
697
00:44:43,920 --> 00:44:47,240
on unnecessary things like alcohol,
698
00:44:47,240 --> 00:44:49,720
and which is not very healthy.
699
00:44:49,720 --> 00:44:52,560
But I'm sure, I am sure...
700
00:44:52,560 --> 00:44:55,080
I have had the pleasure in my life
701
00:44:55,080 --> 00:44:59,600
of meeting Mahatma Gandhi
and getting his autograph etcetera.
702
00:44:59,600 --> 00:45:01,440
I'm sure if he was alive today,
703
00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:07,840
he would have relented on that,
but I'm sure that in due course
704
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:12,240
er...the change will come.
705
00:45:13,760 --> 00:45:16,640
'I wouldn't want anything
to change here,
706
00:45:16,640 --> 00:45:19,680
'not at sunset
and not on this fantastic beach,
707
00:45:19,680 --> 00:45:23,800
'which is by the way
708
00:45:19,680 --> 00:45:23,800
owned by the Mahara, as is the sea.
709
00:45:23,800 --> 00:45:27,720
'Or at least it is at high tide
when the waves break onto his beach.
710
00:45:34,880 --> 00:45:39,960
'But now it's back to business.
Today is the day I must track
down the captain.'
711
00:45:39,960 --> 00:45:44,920
Well, now we've got this far,
I actually found out where he lives.
I'm going to see him.
712
00:45:44,920 --> 00:45:46,920
I think it's probably just as well
713
00:45:46,920 --> 00:45:50,480
I'm just going to have one last look
to see what he looks like.
714
00:45:52,120 --> 00:45:54,680
And this is where
I'm introduced to the captain.
715
00:45:59,880 --> 00:46:02,360
'Hello, hello.' 'Good afternoon.'
716
00:46:02,360 --> 00:46:04,640
Very eager, that's right...
717
00:46:04,640 --> 00:46:08,480
'Very well, do you speak English?'
'Yes.' 'Good.
718
00:46:08,480 --> 00:46:10,160
'Where are you going to?
719
00:46:10,160 --> 00:46:11,800
'Are you going to Bombay?'
720
00:46:11,800 --> 00:46:13,440
'I'm going to Bombay, yes.'
721
00:46:13,440 --> 00:46:15,840
'Good, I need a boat.'
'Yes.' 'To take me to Bombay.'
722
00:46:15,840 --> 00:46:17,720
'Yes. Why not? I take you to Bombay.'
723
00:46:17,720 --> 00:46:23,960
Yeah, that's fine, that's fine.
I think I should remember him.
724
00:46:29,920 --> 00:46:32,040
Well, I'm in the centre of Mandvi
725
00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:36,080
but it's not the sort of place that
has maps or street plans,
726
00:46:36,080 --> 00:46:38,320
so I know I've got to get to Saliya
727
00:46:38,320 --> 00:46:41,560
cos I was told that by Digant
in Bombay,
728
00:46:41,560 --> 00:46:44,920
so I'll just have to go and ask
for Saliya.
729
00:46:46,800 --> 00:46:48,840
The end of the journey begins.
730
00:46:50,320 --> 00:46:56,640
Excuse me, er...Sal...
Saliya. Saliya.
731
00:46:59,000 --> 00:47:00,720
Oh, it's over there?
732
00:47:02,000 --> 00:47:04,760
Saliya.
733
00:47:09,280 --> 00:47:10,800
Can you tell me...
734
00:47:13,240 --> 00:47:16,200
Where is Saliya?
735
00:47:16,200 --> 00:47:19,000
Saliya. Where?
736
00:47:19,000 --> 00:47:21,440
Mandvi. Mandvi, yeah.
737
00:47:21,440 --> 00:47:26,640
Mandvi, Saliya. It's over there?
THEY SPEAK NATIVE TONGUE
738
00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:29,880
Thank you. Aabhaar.
739
00:47:31,640 --> 00:47:36,720
'Salaya or Saliya, and I'm still not
quite sure which it is, proves to
be on the other side of the creek.
740
00:47:36,720 --> 00:47:41,640
'It's served by a distinctly
no-frills ferry service.'
741
00:47:41,640 --> 00:47:43,240
Here I come.
742
00:47:44,760 --> 00:47:46,280
Ooh. Thank you.
743
00:48:12,800 --> 00:48:14,960
Hello, boys.
744
00:48:14,960 --> 00:48:16,520
I'm going to Saliya.
745
00:48:18,480 --> 00:48:20,120
Hey, nice outfit.
746
00:48:23,280 --> 00:48:28,000
'Once in Saliya, I've a chance to
show off my few words of Gujarati.
747
00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:33,400
Excuse me, sirs,
Captain Hassan Suliman
748
00:48:33,400 --> 00:48:36,080
Kya rey che?
749
00:48:36,080 --> 00:48:37,960
Up here? I follow this?
750
00:48:37,960 --> 00:48:42,440
'As Digant Joshi had forecast,
here in Suliya everyone I talk to
751
00:48:42,440 --> 00:48:46,280
'seems to know the captain,
or be related to him.'
752
00:48:46,280 --> 00:48:51,080
Excuse me, Captain Hassan Suliman,
OK? Kya rey che?
753
00:48:53,000 --> 00:48:54,360
Thank you.
754
00:48:55,320 --> 00:48:56,680
Thanks.
755
00:49:01,680 --> 00:49:05,400
'All directions lead to
756
00:49:01,680 --> 00:49:05,400
the waterfront, and extraordinarily,
757
00:49:05,400 --> 00:49:09,800
'there's a dhow being built right
outside the captain's front door.'
758
00:49:15,040 --> 00:49:16,160
This is the one.
759
00:49:16,160 --> 00:49:22,520
'This won't be such a surprise for
the captain, he knows I'm in town,
760
00:49:16,160 --> 00:49:22,520
but it'll be a surprise for me.
761
00:49:22,520 --> 00:49:26,000
'I've no idea
how he or I will react.'
762
00:49:26,000 --> 00:49:28,160
Will it be him? Will it be me?
763
00:49:29,720 --> 00:49:32,120
Hey! Michael, how are you?
764
00:49:32,120 --> 00:49:35,200
How are you, Michael? It is you!
I recognise you.
765
00:49:35,200 --> 00:49:37,000
How are you, Michael?
766
00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:38,960
Oh, I'm very well, very good indeed.
767
00:49:38,960 --> 00:49:42,360
Yes. Come in, come in. Oh, yes.
Mikel, you used to call me, Mikel.
768
00:49:42,360 --> 00:49:46,000
OK, you come in. You've become
a big man, a very big man.
769
00:49:46,000 --> 00:49:47,960
And I've become a grey haired man.
770
00:49:47,960 --> 00:49:50,200
But you now very big now.
Very big, pah!
771
00:49:51,720 --> 00:49:56,560
'We catch up with each other
as he takes me on a walk
through the shipbuilding yards.'
772
00:49:56,560 --> 00:49:58,920
How big was Al Sharma?
773
00:50:01,840 --> 00:50:07,680
'Al Sharma was tiny compared
to some of the 2,000-ton dhows
they're building here now.
774
00:50:07,680 --> 00:50:10,600
'But still they build them
in the time-honoured way,
775
00:50:10,600 --> 00:50:15,320
'by hand and eye
and physical strength.'
776
00:50:15,320 --> 00:50:19,120
This is good strong wood.
777
00:50:15,320 --> 00:50:19,120
Where's the wood from? Malaysia.
778
00:50:19,120 --> 00:50:21,840
Malaysia. Malaysian, ah.
779
00:50:21,840 --> 00:50:24,000
The wood is coming from Malaysia.
780
00:50:28,040 --> 00:50:29,720
You have now...
781
00:50:29,720 --> 00:50:32,480
Only one girls. One girl, yes. Yes.
782
00:50:32,480 --> 00:50:34,360
Married with Anwar, you know Anwar?
783
00:50:34,360 --> 00:50:36,000
With Anwar? Yes, that's right.
784
00:50:36,000 --> 00:50:38,840
And the marriage was at a big, big
thing. Yeah, yeah.
785
00:50:38,840 --> 00:50:41,680
A lot of big party, big feast.
786
00:50:41,680 --> 00:50:43,360
Big feast! You pay.
787
00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:49,840
Yeah! Many times, it'll be
for 18 years we are married.
788
00:50:49,840 --> 00:50:53,520
Yes, that's good, yes. Whoops.
789
00:50:53,520 --> 00:50:57,280
'Often in these last few days, I've
tried to visualise where the captain
790
00:50:57,280 --> 00:50:59,040
'and his crew might live,
791
00:50:59,040 --> 00:51:02,840
'and this location is
right out of central casting.
792
00:51:02,840 --> 00:51:04,520
'I ask the captain if he'd heard
793
00:51:04,520 --> 00:51:06,600
'about the programme
we made together.'
794
00:51:06,600 --> 00:51:08,200
So did people...
795
00:51:08,200 --> 00:51:12,840
All over the world,
you know the BBC World Service?
796
00:51:12,840 --> 00:51:15,360
Yes, BBC World Service.
797
00:51:15,360 --> 00:51:18,040
Famous in the world.
And what do your friends say?
798
00:51:18,040 --> 00:51:19,920
Yeah. They like it? Yeah.
799
00:51:19,920 --> 00:51:22,600
Like it, I like it. Good. Very good.
800
00:51:22,600 --> 00:51:25,280
20 years from now,
another 20 years. Yeah.
801
00:51:25,280 --> 00:51:28,160
We maybe see each other again.
Yeah.
802
00:51:28,160 --> 00:51:31,520
I'll be very old man,
you'll have to push me. OK.
803
00:51:34,720 --> 00:51:39,480
How many years after,
you come next time to Mandvi?
804
00:51:39,480 --> 00:51:41,440
Oh, I don't know.
805
00:51:41,440 --> 00:51:43,560
I don't know. I have to ask my wife.
806
00:51:47,400 --> 00:51:50,640
'Later in the day when I come
back to the captain's house,
807
00:51:50,640 --> 00:51:53,840
'I bring my DVD player
and Hassan, in turn,
808
00:51:53,840 --> 00:51:57,960
'brings together some old faces
from Al Sharma's crew.'
809
00:51:57,960 --> 00:52:00,000
Hi, thank you. Thank you.
810
00:52:03,920 --> 00:52:06,520
I might just have to... Oh, no disc.
811
00:52:06,520 --> 00:52:10,240
'We gather round, the chief
engineer, the second engineer,
812
00:52:10,240 --> 00:52:14,360
'the cabin boy Anwar now married
813
00:52:10,240 --> 00:52:14,360
to the captain's daughter
814
00:52:14,360 --> 00:52:18,640
'and father of three boys,
and of course the captain himself.'
815
00:52:18,640 --> 00:52:21,040
You see, I have to wear glasses now.
816
00:52:21,040 --> 00:52:24,480
Yeah. When I last saw you,
I could see very, very clearly
817
00:52:24,480 --> 00:52:28,040
and now I have to wear these.
Where are you? There you are.
818
00:52:28,040 --> 00:52:29,800
Oh, there we go, look.
819
00:52:29,800 --> 00:52:34,200
'I board our dhow, Al Sharma,
which means candlelight in Arabic.'
820
00:52:35,720 --> 00:52:40,320
Look at me, look at my silly socks
and the funny hat.
821
00:52:40,320 --> 00:52:42,520
There you are.
822
00:52:42,520 --> 00:52:47,040
'The captain has made sure the place
is scrupulously clean,
he assures me...'
823
00:52:47,040 --> 00:52:49,400
Yes, there you are.
824
00:52:49,400 --> 00:52:51,840
Anwar was a very small boy there.
Yes, yes, yes.
825
00:52:51,840 --> 00:52:53,840
We've got some more here of Anwar.
826
00:52:53,840 --> 00:52:56,040
Now he's captain, big captain.
827
00:52:56,040 --> 00:53:00,200
Are you a captain now?
For 14 years. Fantastic.
828
00:53:00,200 --> 00:53:03,360
There we are, that's right,
going out.
829
00:53:06,280 --> 00:53:08,600
HE LAUGHS
830
00:53:08,600 --> 00:53:13,560
Sad. Yeah. Sad to see the ship.
Sad that it's no longer around.
831
00:53:13,560 --> 00:53:15,840
And who's that?
832
00:53:15,840 --> 00:53:18,840
THEY SPEAK NATIVE LANGUAGE
833
00:53:15,840 --> 00:53:18,840
Dead. He's dead?
834
00:53:18,840 --> 00:53:23,680
Kasim. Kasim, yes, expired.
Yes, expiry.
835
00:53:23,680 --> 00:53:28,160
Is this Dejilanti? Yes, ex-man.
836
00:53:28,160 --> 00:53:32,080
Chief Officer, dead. Ah, right,
chief officer. Now dead, yeah.
837
00:53:32,080 --> 00:53:33,840
He for four years dead.
838
00:53:33,840 --> 00:53:38,680
Oh, right, yeah.
Salimamman, Ramsey-mamman, and er...
839
00:53:38,680 --> 00:53:43,680
Kasim. Three men is dead. Oh, yes.
840
00:53:43,680 --> 00:53:46,160
THEY LAUGH
841
00:53:46,160 --> 00:53:50,720
'The plumbing is basic, they favour
the hole in the barrel system.'
842
00:53:50,720 --> 00:53:53,840
THEY LAUGH
843
00:53:53,840 --> 00:53:58,400
'The boat is scorchingly hot
by day and suicidal at night,
844
00:53:58,400 --> 00:54:01,760
'but once installed one enjoys
direct contact with nature.
845
00:54:01,760 --> 00:54:06,440
'This is rather a shock
and causes my bowels to lock
solid for three days'.
846
00:54:06,440 --> 00:54:09,000
Oh, yes.
847
00:54:06,440 --> 00:54:09,000
THEY LAUGH
848
00:54:09,000 --> 00:54:12,160
I didn't know how to use that
at first.
849
00:54:13,720 --> 00:54:15,720
Ah, there you go!
850
00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:18,000
It was very useful.
Look at that there.
851
00:54:18,000 --> 00:54:19,960
Look at the chillies, yeah.
852
00:54:23,480 --> 00:54:29,200
'Whilst Ali Mamoun,
the cook, produces three meals
for 22 people every day.'
853
00:54:29,200 --> 00:54:32,800
He's making chapattis.
854
00:54:29,200 --> 00:54:32,800
THEY LAUGH
855
00:54:32,800 --> 00:54:36,840
He's making so many chapattis,
look at that. Expecting company?
856
00:54:36,840 --> 00:54:40,360
There must be 40 chapattis there.
Stop it! Stop making chapattis!
857
00:54:47,000 --> 00:54:48,880
Very good food there, very nice.
858
00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:51,280
Kedgeree, kedgeree,
you know kedgeree?
859
00:54:51,280 --> 00:54:54,400
Yes, that's right. Kedgeree.
860
00:54:54,400 --> 00:54:56,520
Mohammed is coming.
Mohammed Suliman.
861
00:54:57,960 --> 00:55:00,720
'Mohammed was Al Sharma's bosun.
862
00:55:00,720 --> 00:55:03,520
'He's the captain's
brother and Anwar's father.
863
00:55:03,520 --> 00:55:06,640
'Both of them had told me
that he wasn't well,
864
00:55:06,640 --> 00:55:09,760
'so I'm doubly happy
that he's come to join us.
865
00:55:15,360 --> 00:55:18,240
'He does seem to perk up a bit
when he sees himself on film.
866
00:55:18,240 --> 00:55:23,160
Yes, good crewman and all together.
867
00:55:23,160 --> 00:55:25,640
Here is Kasim listening
to the music,
868
00:55:25,640 --> 00:55:27,880
listening to Bruce Springsteen.
869
00:55:27,880 --> 00:55:33,640
LAUGHTER
870
00:55:37,680 --> 00:55:41,960
Now this is putting the sail up,
871
00:55:37,680 --> 00:55:41,960
I remember.
872
00:55:41,960 --> 00:55:44,240
SINGING
873
00:55:47,760 --> 00:55:49,960
For the open sail. Yes.
Pull up there.
874
00:55:49,960 --> 00:55:52,640
Yes, and you sang your song.
875
00:56:05,840 --> 00:56:10,600
THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE LANGUAGE
AND LAUGH
876
00:56:13,520 --> 00:56:15,600
Yes, very sweet.
877
00:56:15,600 --> 00:56:19,280
And strong. Now Anwar is captain.
I know, I know.
878
00:56:21,280 --> 00:56:23,400
But he's not changed.
879
00:56:23,400 --> 00:56:25,520
'Very good.'
880
00:56:25,520 --> 00:56:29,640
There's me saying, "Very good."
Fat lot you did, Palin.
881
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:32,120
Yeah, "very good." Oh, yes. Ha ha.
882
00:56:32,120 --> 00:56:36,640
'So we sit and watch ourselves
when we were 20 years younger,
883
00:56:36,640 --> 00:56:40,200
'until we come to the final sequence
of the voyage
884
00:56:40,200 --> 00:56:43,680
'where I bid them all farewell
for the last time.'
885
00:56:43,680 --> 00:56:47,160
Ah, yes!
886
00:56:43,680 --> 00:56:47,160
LAUGHTER
887
00:56:49,160 --> 00:56:50,880
Yeah, lovely smile.
888
00:56:58,520 --> 00:57:01,320
'Bye bye.' Ah, look.
889
00:57:01,320 --> 00:57:03,200
Goodbye. There you are, goodbye.
890
00:57:03,200 --> 00:57:06,320
'I'm very sad to leave
Captain Hassan and his crew.
891
00:57:06,320 --> 00:57:08,960
'We entrusted our lives
to these people,
892
00:57:08,960 --> 00:57:10,240
'and they responded
893
00:57:10,240 --> 00:57:13,160
'with unquestioning generosity
and openness.
894
00:57:13,160 --> 00:57:17,320
'I know I shall never again on
this journey enjoy such simple and
895
00:57:17,320 --> 00:57:22,040
'straightforward friendships as I've
made with the crew of the Al Sharma.
896
00:57:22,040 --> 00:57:25,800
'At this moment,
it's almost impossible to accept
897
00:57:25,800 --> 00:57:28,280
'that I shall never see them again.'
898
00:57:28,280 --> 00:57:31,600
There we are. I didn't believe
I would never see you again,
899
00:57:31,600 --> 00:57:34,320
and it's just as well,
because I've seen you again!
900
00:57:34,320 --> 00:57:36,800
Excellent, there you go.
901
00:57:36,800 --> 00:57:40,680
Well, now we do another
programme together. Other one?
902
00:57:40,680 --> 00:57:42,800
Yeah. We get another boat out.
903
00:57:42,800 --> 00:57:45,560
We'll do it all over again. OK. OK?
904
00:57:47,520 --> 00:57:51,040
'Then after tea and
all manner of hospitality,
905
00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:53,440
'it's time for another farewell.'
906
00:57:53,440 --> 00:57:56,560
Thank you so much,
it's great to see you again.
907
00:57:56,560 --> 00:57:59,800
OK, how many years
you thinking you come here?
908
00:57:59,800 --> 00:58:02,320
Shall we leave it another 20?
More 20?
909
00:58:02,320 --> 00:58:04,000
Real mature men. OK, sir.
910
00:58:04,000 --> 00:58:06,120
Thank you,
good luck to all your family.
911
00:58:06,120 --> 00:58:09,560
It was lovely to meet them all,
and great to see the shows again.
912
00:58:09,560 --> 00:58:12,120
OK, goodbye. See you soon.
913
00:58:12,120 --> 00:58:13,960
20 years will go by very quickly.
914
00:58:13,960 --> 00:58:16,000
OK, sir, bye, goodbye. Goodbye.
915
00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:19,560
OK. Goodbye, sir.
916
00:58:19,560 --> 00:58:21,800
'Whatever plans Hassan and I
might make,
917
00:58:21,800 --> 00:58:24,520
'I'm pretty sure that both
he and I know
918
00:58:24,520 --> 00:58:29,000
'that this time the chances are
we shall not see each other again.
919
00:58:29,000 --> 00:58:31,400
Goodbye, sir. Careful, please.
920
00:58:48,520 --> 00:58:51,560
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
921
00:58:51,560 --> 00:58:54,600
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
123050
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