All language subtitles for BBC.Thailand.Earths.Tropical.Paradise.3of3..The.Mysterious.North..720p.HDTV.x264.AAC.MVGroup.org

In the heart of Southeast Asia
is an ancient kingdom...

..with over 3,000 kilometres
of coastline.

But beyond its golden shores...

..there are secret worlds.

Home to mysterious creatures...

..and forest giants.

This is a fast-changing country...

..where East and West collide.

People and animals must work
together to survive.

Forming unique relationships.

A spiritual land...

..full of magic and wonder.

This is Thailand.

Thailand's north
is a wild and rugged land.

Cloaked in forest,

hiding ancient communities

and unexpected partnerships.

Here, in the jungles of Phu Kao,
live some unusual primates.

Phayre's leaf monkeys.

They live up to their name,

eating the leaves of around
100 different types of plant.

But this low-calorie diet
means they've got to eat a lot.

So, they need to keep moving.

In all the hurry, youngsters risk
getting lost among the greenery.

But babies are born bright orange,

making them easier
for parents to spot.

When he's a few months old,

this baby will turn grey,
like his parents.

But, for now,
he remains highly visible.

Sisters and aunts share
in the childcare.

It helps them practise
their parenting skills.

But this new mother seems
reluctant to release her infant.

Being this protective
doesn't allow her much time to rest.

She's yet to learn the benefits
of sharing.

On the move again.

It's hard work travelling in the
tree tops with a baby in your arms.

Feeding is more difficult, too.

This mother is tired and hungry.

And with others keen
to care for her baby...

..she accepts their help.

Now, she can concentrate on
the important task

of eating more leaves,

knowing her baby is in safe hands.

In this remote region of Thailand,

strong partnerships have long formed
an essential part of life.

Northern Thailand
is a diverse landscape.

Almost two-thirds of it
is dominated by forested mountains.

This green veil hides some
of the world's rarest creatures.

Like the leopard...

the Malayan tapir...

..and the binturong.

Isolation has also protected
ancient communities,

where people and nature

forge surprising alliances.

Thailand's northern mountains began
to form 50 million years ago,

when Indian and Eurasian
plates collided

and the highest peak was born.

Doi Inthanon is known as
"The Roof of Thailand".

It stands over 2,500 metres high.

Temperatures here
drop to near freezing,

bathing the morning forest
in cool, moist air.

Beneath this sea of mist

lies an enchanting world

of wild woods
and white-water streams.

As water flows through this forest,

it absorbs carbon dioxide
from the soil and air,

making it more acidic.

It eats away at the limestone rock
of the mountains,

creating worlds within worlds.

Over millions of years,

streams and rivers
have carved a maze of caverns.

So far, more than 4,000
have been discovered.

Tham Lod Cave is 50 metres tall.

Thousands of Cook's swifts nest
in its cathedral-like vaults.

But they can't nest in peace.

A predator prowls these walls.

This cave racer snake
is two metres long,

helping it bridge gaps
to scale this cavern.

To escape the snake,

the swifts build their nests
in the most inaccessible places.

At night, they keep dead still,

hoping the danger passes.

When dawn breaks over the mountains,

the swifts can once more
take to the safety of the air.

As they leave the cave,
their droppings rain down.

Insect remains in the guano may be
appealing to the carp,

but others also take advantage
of this fertile sprinkling.

Anpa visits the cave most days.

The spirits of the cave

can see me collecting the guano.

I hope to please the spirits

by cleaning the cave

I make merit

In Buddhism,
heavenly favour can be earned

by small acts of respect
or kindness

known as "making merit".

Anpa's ritual of collecting this
guano also has earthly benefits.

It's time to plant the garlic

I use the quano as ferrtiliser

This will make the garlic plants

good and healthy

and more resistant

to insect and disease

This natural alliance reaffirms
Anpa's spiritual beliefs,

as well as providing
valuable nitrogen

and phosphorus for the soil.

Traditional small-scale farming
in the mountains

requires a close
connection with nature.

So, too, does modern-day practice.

In north-eastern Thailand,

where there was once forest,

there is now farmland.

And people here still maintain

an important relationship
with wildlife.

Mr Tanon is on a personal mission.

By bending and breaking the spines
of banana palm leaves,

he creates new homes for a rare
and secretive mammal.

Among these dry, dead leaves,

lives the painted bat.

Painted bats have adopted
this unusual roosting site...

..because there's a short supply
of natural forest in this region.

I think they are beautiful

I try to conserve them for the children

for future generations

These bats were a rare sight.

But 16 years ago, a breeding
population was rediscovered here.

It's easy to see why they are known
locally as the "butterfly bat".

For Mr Tanon, the reward for this
partnership

is simply to see the natural
beauty of these bats on the wing.

Sometimes all it takes

is one person to make a difference.

In northern Thailand,

the lives of animals and people
are deeply entwined

and the natural world
is an integral part of religion.

Under the full moon, there's
one event that happens each year,

symbolising the letting go
of past problems

and welcoming new hope
for the future.

In Buddhist culture,
sky-borne lanterns

represent a move away
from darkness into the light.

The festivals of
Yi Peng and Loy Krathong

bring families
and friends together.

Celebrating the elements of nature,

they honour Phra Mae Khongkha -
the water goddess.

"Loy", in Thai, means "to float"

and small baskets, or "krathongs",
fill the village river.

These elaborate rituals
help communities to live in harmony

and show respect
for the natural world.

The connection between people
and nature is a complex one.

And there's one creature with which
the people of northern Thailand

have had an enduring relationship.

But it has not always
been a happy one.

The Asian elephant.

These giants can weigh up
to five tonnes.

So, you don't want to cross paths
with one in thick jungle.

This is an elephant this woman
knows well.

She was rescued by Lek
from a life of toil and hardship.

The felling of the forests for
hardwood timber

was once common in northern
Thailand,

and elephants
were used as tractors.

When logging was made illegal
in 1989,

many elephants were forced to earn
their keep in the tourist industry.

I saw a bull elephant in the jungle

when I was a teenager

He was wounded from hauling logs

but still forced to keep working.

The look in his eyes

changed my life forever.

Now, Lek is working
to change the lives

of Thailand's domesticated
elephants.

She's rescuing them
from illegal logging sites,

circuses and tracking camps,

and giving them a new life.

Caboo suffered an injury in a
logging camp

when she was two years old.

But she had to carry on working
for another 23 years -

until Lek came to her rescue.

The elephants roam here without
chains, meeting others,

and forging new bonds.

Lek's sanctuary also enables
visitors to meet these giants.

In the wild, Asian elephants live in
family groups of related females.

But these individuals have welcomed
Lek to be part of the herd.

When I stay with the herd

I am not afraid

I feel part of the herd

they accept me

I feel that they are my family

Elephants are highly intelligent
and emotional animals.

And after years
of psychological trauma,

these individuals are now putting
their trust in Lek.

In Thailand,
there isn't always the space

to release large numbers of
them back into the wild.

So, these elephants are likely to
spend the rest of their days

in this sanctuary.

With Lek's love and dedication,

they'll get the care they need,

and now have a second chance
at life.

In Thailand's northern mountains,

there are a few places where great
tracts of forest still remain.

Especially on the border
with Myanmar.

It's the largest area of protected
land in mainland Southeast Asia.

At its heart, the wilderness
of Huai Kha Khaeng,

is home to some of Thailand's
rarest and most elusive creatures...

..such as banteng.

They normally
live deep within the forest,

but, during the dry season,

come out into the clearings to feed
on the last remaining grasses.

These wild cows are believed
to be the ancestors

of all cattle in Southeast Asia.

Each herd is comprised of a male,

several females,

and their playful calves.

Huai Kha Khaeng
is one of the few places

where numbers seem to be growing.

Sambar deer also like to graze here

and are useful sentinels,

alert to the sounds of the forest.

They need to be.

Large predators live here, too.

Armed rangers are here to protect
the rarest of them all.

The Indochinese tiger.

It is estimated there are only 200
of these tigers left in Thailand.

And they face extinction

due to habitat loss and poaching.

The rangers pass on any information
they find to scientists...

..who are also working hard
to prevent the tigers' decline.

It's a great collaboration

between the Department
of National Parks,

Wildlife And Plant Conservation,

and the Wildlife
Conservation Society.

But it's tough work for everyone.

Tigers are almost impossible
to find.

The best way for Som Pot
and the tiger research team

to work out how many live here
is by using camera traps.

They've revealed that here
in Huai Kha Khaeng -

just four hours' drive
from Bangkok -

there's a significant
tiger population.

Many Thai people are unaware
these secretive cats

still exist in their country.

To know where
to put the camera traps,

the team need to understand
the tigers' territory.

To do that, they follow
a number of key individuals

using satellite collars.

Today, Som Pot's tracking
one particular tiger.

Its satellite collar shows it keeps
returning to the same place.

It's a good chance to
get vital camera-trap footage.

The tiger has made a kill...

..a male sambar deer.

They must work quickly,
with minimal disturbance.

Later that night, the tiger returns.

Camera-trap footage has been vital
for documenting the tigers here.

Tiger stripe patterns
are like fingerprints -

unique to each individual.

The database shows around 70 tigers
roamed these forests.

Numbers have almost doubled
in a decade

and that's because of people like
Som Pot and his team.

Restoring natural harmony in the
forests of northern Thailand

is also vital for preserving the
spiritual lives

of the people that live here.

These men are from the
Black Lahu hill tribe.

Their ancestors lived in the
Himalayan foothills

for over 2,000 years, settling here
within the last century.

They believe spirits dwell
in this forest.

For Papa,
cooperating with them is vital.

My wife Nalor

she has been very unwell

The Black Lahu have a unique
relationship with nature,

with an animist faith
that predates Buddhism.

This tree will become a bridge
to the spirit world.

An offering is made.

Papa believes this cord will pull
his wife's lost soul

along the tree trunk
back from the forest.

By tying the cord around her wrist,

the spirit doctor reconnects Nalor
with her soul.

A Lahu will never cut a spirit cord,

wearing it until it falls off.

This sacred connection with the
forest is cause for celebration.

By dancing, the Lahu show their joy
to their creator spirit, Gui Sha.

The Lahus' spiritual relationship
with the forest

protects their loved ones
and strengthens the community.

These remote mountain worlds

not only hide ancient traditions,

they also hide age-old showdowns.

Up here lurks one of
northern Thailand's

more surprising creatures.

The big-headed turtle.

As his name suggests,
he has an enormous head,

with super-sized jaws.

Food can be hard to come by
in this fast-moving water,

but as he only needs to eat every
few days, there's no real urgency.

And he knows where he's going.

Long claws and a muscular
tail propel him upstream.

He's a little on the slow side,

but it helps him save energy.

He's got to where he wants to be.

It's now a waiting game.

Other ancient creatures are
drawn from the forest to the water.

Freshwater crabs.

It's likely their ancestors
ended up here,

300km from the coast,

when the mountains formed
millions of years ago.

To a crab, the big-headed turtle
looks much like a rock...

..and that's just what he wants.

Now those jaws make sense.

The ideal crab cracker.

Over millennia,
remote forest streams

have brought these unlikely
animals together.

Thailand's mountainous north
is an ancient land...

..but there are places where people
have had a big influence

in recent years.

Like here, in the hills of
Mae Hong Son.

Commercial logging cleared parts
of this land,

creating new opportunities
for other kinds of plant.

Sunflowers now carpet
these mountains.

They were first brought to Thailand
from Central America

as garden plants
about 70 years ago.

But no-one quite knows
how they got to the slopes.

Up here, they spread like wildfire.

Many tourists
come to admire the spectacle.

The people of the North
have embraced this interloper...

..adopting it as
a provincial mascot.

The Mexican sunflower is now part of
the fabric of northern Thailand.

Where farmland is replacing forest,

wildlife finds new ways to flourish.

Weaver ants have colonised
much of this man-made landscape.

Hundreds of them work as a team
to build their home out of leaves,

protecting them against
the elements.

To lash the leaves together,

gangs of workers pull as one.

Bridges are built, helping ants
move quickly around the site.

To hold their construction together,

they rely on the youngest members
of the colony -

grubs.

When they're in their final stages
of development,

they produce strands of silk...

..and make the perfect glue gun.

In just a few hours,
their new home is complete.

Their nest happens
to be on a mango farm.

But it's no ordinary orchard.

Mr Bunchu has recruited this army
of miniature warriors

to defend his fruit.

They'll eat any pests.

And by tying these strings between
mango trees,

Mr Bunchu helps the ants
get to new foraging grounds,

expanding their empire

and protecting his orchard.

Healthy ant colonies
mean fewer pesticides

and the weaver ants
give the farmer something else.

Mr Bunchu
likes to harvest their eggs.

He takes only a little
from each nest,

separating the ants
so they can return to the colony.

These eggs are a Thai delicacy...

and a favourite dish of the North.

By working with wildlife,

farmers in northern Thailand

are able to benefit from nature's
bounty, and help it flourish.

But the greatest rewards of all

are found in the shadows of these
northern mountains.

The soil here is watered by rivers
that flow down through this land,

irrigating the rice fields.

Thailand exports more than
9 million tonnes of rice a year.

Every rice plant is vital
for Mr Thipuin's crop...

..but there's constant threat.

White-backed plant hoppers
invade the paddy fields.

They suck the sap and stunt
the growth of the rice plants,

reducing the yield.

But living beneath these mountains,

the farmers have their
own natural pest control.

Every evening, it stirs.

300,000 wrinkle-lipped bats emerge

to hunt for insects on the wing.

This living ribbon of bats
is a welcome sight for the farmers.

The bats are good for the rice

They help us by eating the insects

They also defecate onto the paddy fields

which helps to fertilise them.

It's estimated that, by eating
white-backed plant hoppers,

these bats rescue enough rice

to feed 26,000 people
in Thailand each year.

And by planting his rice
in the flight path,

Mr Thipuin will benefit from
these hungry little helpers.

In these northern mountains,
success and survival

rely on working together

and exploiting opportunities
when they arise.

Ancient beliefs, modern ideas,

and unexpected alliances

all help to maintain
the natural harmony.

THAI DIARIES

The toughest challenge
for the northern Thailand team

was filming Indochinese tigers.

There are only about 350 left
in the wild.

The only place
they stood any chance of success

was in the forest of
Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary.

Producer James Hemming teamed up
with the scientists

who've devoted their lives

to understanding the habits
of these creatures...

..sometimes using quite unusual
tracking techniques.

Yeah.

Yeah, that's really...

It's quite potent!

Scent marks define tiger territory.

They're like signposts,

providing vital clues
to their whereabouts.

Two different tigers?

Even so, finding them
is far from easy.

The team have only got
three weeks in this forest,

which is four times
the size of Greater London.

James is going to need more
than a sniff to succeed.

Wow!

Yeah.

Camera traps are his best chance

of getting footage
of these elusive animals.

The cameras need to be rigged

at key locations in the forest where
they'll be triggered by motion.

And to film a passing tiger,

it's really important to
get the frame size right.

Pretty good.

Yeah. It's all good.

Cool. OK.

For the scientists, camera traps
have also proved essential.

Not just for research, but in
helping police with anti-poaching.

In 2015, camera-trap images
proved that a tiger

which once roamed these forests,
had been illegally poached.

It led to the prosecution
of three men.

The crew aren't relying
just on camera traps.

Wildlife cameraman Graham MacFarlane

and guide Kwanchi,
are also in the field.

A tiger could be ten metres from you
and you wouldn't see it.

This place is covered
with animal prints.

There's elephant, loads of deer.

It's a really good sign,
all prey for the tiger.

I've got a really good feeling
about this place.

And there's a fresh tiger track,
just down there.

(Great news. Well spotted, Kwanchi!)

Graham is using
a more traditional method,

waiting it out in a hide
near a spring.

So, I've got my camera there,
my seat,

my little window out on the world.

As Graham settles in,

the camera traps start
to bring in results.

A leopard is caught on camera.

But no sign of tigers.

A few days later, scientist Som Pot
may have found the breakthrough

that James needs - the rotting
remains of a tiger kill.

"Come to Thailand!" they said.
"Full of beaches(!)"

The tiger could return at any time,

so the team need to work swiftly.

I really hope this works.
It could be the best chance we have

of actually filming a tiger here.

Now all they can do is wait.

Patience is also key for Graham.

Another day in the office.

Still no tiger. I'm not going to
give up yet.

As it's the height
of the dry season,

the spring is proving to
be a busy place.

A Malay tapir.

Such an unusual-looking animal.

But this binturong
has Graham baffled.

I shall have to look that one up
in the mammals book.

That's is pretty cool, though.

And there are signs
that predators may be close.

I just saw one of those barking
deers with a massive scar.

I can only imagine
it was a...lucky escape.

Possibly from a tiger.

It makes me nervous.

Graham is right to be nervous.

A ranger was recently attacked
here by a tiger.

But, right now, there's a far bigger
threat that no-one had anticipated.

A forest fire.

Out of control.

James and the team are forced
back to base.

It's weird, because
it was quite sunny earlier...

..and now with the wind's picked up,
and it's so smoky.

The langurs all left
at the same time.

They went that way.

So, I guess...

..if the fire does come this way,
I'll head that way, too.

Graham's time in the hide is over.

Back at the headquarters,

the fires are now dangerously close
to James and the team.

It's suddenly become, within, like,
ten minutes, incredibly smoky.

We're actually having to evacuate.

Pretty worried, to be honest.
It's just so unpredictable.

Holy Moley...

The team managed to get out safely,

and despite the fires,
the camera traps were saved.

Wow...

Look... I mean,
look at the size of him.

Fantastic. Wow...

It's lucky that we got this?
Yes! Really?

Healthy. Really healthy.

Good body condition.
Which is great.

This must mean there's plenty
of animals to, you know, hunt.

I'm over the moon
that we actually managed to,

you know, get the footage.

Thank you very much. It was great.
You're welcome.

Over the course
of the last 20 years,

tiger numbers have increased here.

And there is new hope for
Thailand's biggest land predator.