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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,350 - [Narrator] Welcome to the 14th Annual 2 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:07,000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 3 00:00:03,350 --> 00:00:04,971 Reel Rock Film Tour. 4 00:00:04,971 --> 00:00:06,770 (gentle guitar music) 5 00:00:06,770 --> 00:00:09,600 Presented by The North Face. 6 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 7 00:00:09,600 --> 00:00:14,250 Since 1966 we have viewed walls not as obstacles 8 00:00:14,250 --> 00:00:15,980 but as opportunities. 9 00:00:15,980 --> 00:00:17,920 From the big walls of Yosemite 10 00:00:17,920 --> 00:00:20,480 to the high peaks of the Himalayas. 11 00:00:20,480 --> 00:00:23,640 We were searching for a personal kind of freedom. 12 00:00:23,640 --> 00:00:26,030 In this pursuit we found a community 13 00:00:26,030 --> 00:00:28,350 strengthened by different stories, 14 00:00:28,350 --> 00:00:31,410 experiences, and perspectives. 15 00:00:31,410 --> 00:00:34,570 This community has shown us that the only way forward, 16 00:00:34,570 --> 00:00:35,403 is together. 17 00:00:36,320 --> 00:00:38,503 Walls are meant for climbing. 18 00:00:41,100 --> 00:00:42,830 - [Climber] Okay, ready? 19 00:00:42,830 --> 00:00:44,420 Go. 20 00:00:44,420 --> 00:00:45,947 - History begins. 21 00:00:45,947 --> 00:00:46,840 - [Rock Climber Voiceover] You need to improvise. 22 00:00:46,840 --> 00:00:48,190 - [Man] Just figure it out. 23 00:00:49,060 --> 00:00:50,660 - [Nina] I know that I can do it, 24 00:00:50,660 --> 00:00:52,558 it's like, game on. 25 00:00:52,558 --> 00:00:53,391 (screams) 26 00:00:53,391 --> 00:00:55,058 - No gear, no falls! 27 00:00:56,130 --> 00:00:58,130 - [Narrator] Reel Rock 14 is also brought 28 00:00:58,130 --> 00:01:00,263 to you by Black Diamond. 29 00:01:02,610 --> 00:01:04,880 We design and manufacture the most 30 00:01:04,880 --> 00:01:07,263 innovative mountain equipment in the world. 31 00:01:08,660 --> 00:01:13,023 Live, climb, repeat, Black Diamond. 32 00:01:13,908 --> 00:01:18,908 Yeti, in the van, in the dirt, on the trail, 33 00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:26,720 wherever you climb, Yeti is built for the wild. 34 00:01:27,588 --> 00:01:29,210 (upbeat music) 35 00:01:29,210 --> 00:01:33,810 Trublue Auto Belay, from the start of your journey 36 00:01:33,810 --> 00:01:35,693 to the goals you dream of reaching. 37 00:01:36,750 --> 00:01:41,483 Most tested, most trusted, most true. 38 00:01:43,260 --> 00:01:45,670 Reel Rock is also proud to partner with 39 00:01:45,670 --> 00:01:47,363 The American Alpine Club. 40 00:01:48,240 --> 00:01:49,800 Love to climb? 41 00:01:49,800 --> 00:01:50,683 Join the club. 42 00:01:51,750 --> 00:01:56,750 And Access Fund, protecting Americas climbing. 43 00:01:56,767 --> 00:01:58,840 (upbeat music) 44 00:01:58,840 --> 00:02:01,553 And now get ready for new films. 45 00:02:03,040 --> 00:02:08,040 The High Road, United States of Joe's. 46 00:02:08,393 --> 00:02:10,030 (screams in pain) 47 00:02:10,030 --> 00:02:12,599 And our feature presentation, 48 00:02:12,599 --> 00:02:13,640 - Falling. 49 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:15,113 The Nose speed record. 50 00:02:16,298 --> 00:02:17,131 - [Male Rock Climber Voiceover] This has gotta be 51 00:02:17,131 --> 00:02:18,450 the coolest racetrack in the world. 52 00:02:18,450 --> 00:02:19,820 - 16 minutes faster. 53 00:02:19,820 --> 00:02:21,933 - [Narrator] It's time for Reel Rock 14. 54 00:02:30,792 --> 00:02:34,375 (sounds of brushing teeth) 55 00:02:44,066 --> 00:02:46,816 (zipper zipping) 56 00:02:55,983 --> 00:02:59,150 (upbeat guitar music) 57 00:03:08,850 --> 00:03:12,350 - We're out here in Roy, New Mexico. 58 00:03:12,350 --> 00:03:16,890 A really big sandstone bouldering area, very remote feeling. 59 00:03:16,890 --> 00:03:20,610 It's definitely flown under the radar for the past few years 60 00:03:20,610 --> 00:03:21,860 which is pretty nice. 61 00:03:21,860 --> 00:03:24,613 There's a good chance that you'll be the only ones out here. 62 00:03:25,460 --> 00:03:27,460 - Nina and I have a really good relationship, 63 00:03:27,460 --> 00:03:30,683 we go out climbing a lot, She's super motivated. 64 00:03:31,620 --> 00:03:33,330 - [Interviewer] Who climbs harder on the boulders? 65 00:03:33,330 --> 00:03:36,570 - Oh Nina climbs way harder on the boulders. 66 00:03:36,570 --> 00:03:37,403 - Come on James. 67 00:03:38,500 --> 00:03:41,999 (James grunting) 68 00:03:41,999 --> 00:03:43,480 - Holy shit. 69 00:03:43,480 --> 00:03:45,793 Sometimes she can warm up on my project. 70 00:03:46,888 --> 00:03:48,303 - This is so fun. 71 00:03:49,750 --> 00:03:51,200 - [James] Nice, come on Nina. 72 00:03:53,444 --> 00:03:54,694 - So cool, yay! 73 00:03:58,400 --> 00:04:01,820 When I go out climbing, I'm not necessarily looking for 74 00:04:01,820 --> 00:04:05,683 the hardest grade, I'm really driven by aesthetics. 75 00:04:07,670 --> 00:04:09,270 - Nice, good, come on. 76 00:04:09,270 --> 00:04:11,973 - I wanna look for the most beautiful lines. 77 00:04:13,143 --> 00:04:15,960 - That's good, I got you, come on. 78 00:04:15,960 --> 00:04:19,563 - The ones that make me react in this visceral way. 79 00:04:22,023 --> 00:04:25,363 And it just so happens to be the tall ones. 80 00:04:26,210 --> 00:04:28,460 - Nina likes climbing taller problems 81 00:04:28,460 --> 00:04:31,591 which can be a little nerve wracking sometimes. 82 00:04:31,591 --> 00:04:35,440 (James speaking faintly) 83 00:04:35,440 --> 00:04:38,261 - Oh my God, that was kind of exciting. 84 00:04:38,261 --> 00:04:39,094 - Yeah? 85 00:04:40,370 --> 00:04:44,260 - I'll see a line and it'll be this really cool big thing 86 00:04:44,260 --> 00:04:46,780 and I'll think, do I actually wanna climb this thing? 87 00:04:46,780 --> 00:04:48,250 Is it worth it for me? 88 00:04:48,250 --> 00:04:51,830 And if it is, next step is to check it out on the rope. 89 00:04:51,830 --> 00:04:53,180 Whoop. 90 00:04:53,180 --> 00:04:54,760 Make sure I know what the holds are 91 00:04:54,760 --> 00:04:56,223 and what my beta is like. 92 00:04:59,640 --> 00:05:02,960 It's about dealing with the fear on a rope, 93 00:05:02,960 --> 00:05:05,380 really immersing myself in it. 94 00:05:05,380 --> 00:05:07,930 So in the real moment of climbing it, 95 00:05:07,930 --> 00:05:12,200 I can feel that fear still rise up on an instinctual level 96 00:05:12,200 --> 00:05:14,260 but just be able to manage it a lot better 97 00:05:14,260 --> 00:05:18,704 and be like okay, I feel this fear, I hear it, I sense it, 98 00:05:18,704 --> 00:05:21,363 but I don't have to listen to it. 99 00:05:21,436 --> 00:05:28,842 (electronic music) 100 00:06:42,295 --> 00:06:44,878 (upbeat music) 101 00:06:47,689 --> 00:06:50,439 (deep breathing) 102 00:06:55,118 --> 00:06:56,038 - [James] Good job. 103 00:06:56,038 --> 00:06:56,871 - Ye! 104 00:06:57,950 --> 00:07:00,653 - [James] It's easy to be inspired by Nina. 105 00:07:02,500 --> 00:07:04,683 She's always looking to push it harder. 106 00:07:07,330 --> 00:07:08,973 Looking for the next big thing. 107 00:07:11,580 --> 00:07:12,730 - For the past couple years 108 00:07:12,730 --> 00:07:16,610 I had this seemingly far away goal 109 00:07:16,610 --> 00:07:20,957 to climb this beautiful boulder called Too Big To Flail. 110 00:07:20,957 --> 00:07:22,752 (dramatic music) 111 00:07:22,752 --> 00:07:26,080 It's in the Buttermilks which is world renowned 112 00:07:26,080 --> 00:07:28,205 for very, very, big boulders. 113 00:07:28,205 --> 00:07:30,960 (dramatic piano music) 114 00:07:30,960 --> 00:07:34,252 It's probably around 50 feet or so. 115 00:07:34,252 --> 00:07:36,307 You walk up to the base, you look at it, 116 00:07:36,307 --> 00:07:39,487 and your eyes just keep going up. 117 00:07:39,487 --> 00:07:42,281 (slow dramatic music) 118 00:07:42,281 --> 00:07:44,774 You think, oh my gosh, it's just sheer. 119 00:07:44,774 --> 00:07:47,941 (slow dramatic music) 120 00:07:50,160 --> 00:07:52,210 I first heard about Too Big To Flail 121 00:07:52,210 --> 00:07:55,570 watching Alex Honnold climb it in one of the Reel Rocks 122 00:07:55,570 --> 00:07:56,570 way back in the day. 123 00:07:57,630 --> 00:07:59,080 - I wrapped down it and tried all the moves. 124 00:07:59,080 --> 00:07:59,913 Oh shit. 125 00:07:59,913 --> 00:08:00,773 And just thinking about doing it, 126 00:08:00,773 --> 00:08:02,440 I was like this is terrifying. 127 00:08:02,440 --> 00:08:03,762 Shit. 128 00:08:03,762 --> 00:08:04,595 - [Rock Climber Spotter] You okay? 129 00:08:04,595 --> 00:08:05,428 - [Alex] Yup. 130 00:08:05,428 --> 00:08:08,780 - Seeing Alex on that climb, my heart was in my throat. 131 00:08:08,780 --> 00:08:09,850 How can he do that? 132 00:08:09,850 --> 00:08:11,530 That's just totally nuts. 133 00:08:11,530 --> 00:08:16,530 Never did I think, oh maybe I could do that one day. 134 00:08:16,860 --> 00:08:19,300 - [Colette] When Nina started coming on the scene, 135 00:08:19,300 --> 00:08:23,334 2010, 2011, she was just one of those young guns 136 00:08:23,334 --> 00:08:24,831 coming up quick. 137 00:08:24,831 --> 00:08:27,152 (upbeat music) 138 00:08:27,152 --> 00:08:28,293 - [James] Solid. 139 00:08:28,293 --> 00:08:29,126 - [Colette] Yeah. 140 00:08:29,126 --> 00:08:31,467 Doing double digit grades just kind of effortlessly. 141 00:08:31,467 --> 00:08:32,300 - [James] Come on. 142 00:08:32,300 --> 00:08:34,340 - [Nina] I really like doing these hard problems. 143 00:08:34,340 --> 00:08:35,290 - [James] Nice one. 144 00:08:36,389 --> 00:08:38,230 - Yes, it feels so good. 145 00:08:38,230 --> 00:08:41,110 But I realized, I wanna expand a little bit, 146 00:08:41,110 --> 00:08:42,730 push myself mentally. 147 00:08:42,730 --> 00:08:44,430 My first highball was probably 148 00:08:44,430 --> 00:08:47,470 this super overhanging V10 in Massachusetts 149 00:08:47,470 --> 00:08:48,820 called Speed of Life. 150 00:08:48,820 --> 00:08:51,340 It's got a terrible landing, you have to like jump off 151 00:08:51,340 --> 00:08:55,720 to the ledge behind or you fall down this big chute. 152 00:08:55,720 --> 00:08:59,460 I tried for a couple years and I fell so many times. 153 00:08:59,460 --> 00:09:02,214 It really honed my sense of falling. 154 00:09:02,214 --> 00:09:04,240 - [James] Nice, get in there. 155 00:09:04,240 --> 00:09:06,571 (Nina screaming happily) 156 00:09:06,571 --> 00:09:09,460 - That gave me confidence to try these climbs 157 00:09:09,460 --> 00:09:10,900 that were taller. 158 00:09:10,900 --> 00:09:12,690 I tried Evilution Direct. 159 00:09:12,690 --> 00:09:13,660 - [James] Come on Nina! 160 00:09:13,660 --> 00:09:16,480 - [Nina] I'm at the lip and I've got this heel hook. 161 00:09:16,480 --> 00:09:18,390 - [James] Yeah, come on. 162 00:09:18,390 --> 00:09:21,543 - [Nina] And I remember everything happening in slow motion. 163 00:09:22,600 --> 00:09:23,943 Just like, no. 164 00:09:26,910 --> 00:09:29,574 I saw my knee coming up straight towards my face. 165 00:09:29,574 --> 00:09:32,824 (slow motion grunting) 166 00:09:33,750 --> 00:09:37,280 But at the last second I moved my knee out of the way 167 00:09:37,280 --> 00:09:38,603 so I was totally fine. 168 00:09:39,520 --> 00:09:42,420 I realized in know how to fall well. 169 00:09:42,420 --> 00:09:46,760 I could orientate myself in space and control my landing. 170 00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:49,712 I just took a few minutes and did it next go. 171 00:09:49,712 --> 00:09:50,545 Done! 172 00:09:50,545 --> 00:09:51,791 - [James] Nice Nina! 173 00:09:51,791 --> 00:09:54,635 (upbeat music) 174 00:09:54,635 --> 00:09:55,862 - [Colette] Go Nina! 175 00:09:55,862 --> 00:09:58,700 (group cheering and clapping) 176 00:09:58,700 --> 00:10:01,569 - [Nina] I started to seek out these massive boulders. 177 00:10:01,569 --> 00:10:04,840 (slow upbeat music) 178 00:10:04,840 --> 00:10:08,083 Building my mental strength in a step-by-step manner. 179 00:10:09,240 --> 00:10:12,518 Anyone can do it, it just takes practice. 180 00:10:12,518 --> 00:10:14,920 (Nina screaming) 181 00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,152 - [Colette] In the last five years 182 00:10:17,152 --> 00:10:20,844 Nina's been going through a process, doing all the steps. 183 00:10:20,844 --> 00:10:22,080 - Yes! 184 00:10:22,080 --> 00:10:24,170 - To get to the level she's at. 185 00:10:24,170 --> 00:10:29,170 But I also think it just takes a certain kind of mentality. 186 00:10:31,120 --> 00:10:33,680 Maybe Nina just has that gene 187 00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:36,293 that makes her a little less fearful. 188 00:10:38,654 --> 00:10:39,487 - Oh my God. 189 00:10:39,487 --> 00:10:42,310 - [Colette] She has this ability to access the risk, 190 00:10:42,310 --> 00:10:46,520 keep a calm mind, and just go for it. 191 00:10:46,520 --> 00:10:49,802 - [James] Oh yeah, come on. 192 00:10:49,802 --> 00:10:51,420 Oh yeah, come on. 193 00:10:51,420 --> 00:10:52,458 Yeah! 194 00:10:52,458 --> 00:10:53,993 - [Colette] Woo! 195 00:10:53,993 --> 00:10:54,826 Yeah! 196 00:10:57,650 --> 00:11:02,650 Two years ago she really took another step up with Ambrosia. 197 00:11:03,886 --> 00:11:05,110 - [Nina] Sup dude? 198 00:11:05,110 --> 00:11:07,270 - I was there with her filming it 199 00:11:07,270 --> 00:11:10,023 and it was kind of terrifying. 200 00:11:10,930 --> 00:11:15,000 - [Nina] On a boulder like Ambrosia it's full commitment. 201 00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:18,620 When you're that high up, there's no falling. 202 00:11:18,620 --> 00:11:20,520 - [Colette] You just kinda hold your breath 203 00:11:20,520 --> 00:11:23,050 and just trust that she wouldn't put herself 204 00:11:23,050 --> 00:11:26,540 in that position unless she was 100% confident 205 00:11:26,540 --> 00:11:27,590 that she could do it. 206 00:11:30,039 --> 00:11:33,206 (slow dramatic music) 207 00:11:35,260 --> 00:11:39,280 - [Nina] When I did Ambrosia it was perfect. 208 00:11:39,280 --> 00:11:42,353 I had no fear, I wasn't thinking about anything. 209 00:11:43,700 --> 00:11:46,070 I just let my body climb. 210 00:11:46,070 --> 00:11:47,389 Yes! 211 00:11:47,389 --> 00:11:48,222 - [James] So good! 212 00:11:48,222 --> 00:11:49,055 - [Nina] Yes! 213 00:11:49,055 --> 00:11:50,850 I got to the top and I felt ecstatic. 214 00:11:50,850 --> 00:11:52,652 It felt like a religious experience. 215 00:11:52,652 --> 00:11:53,485 Yay! 216 00:11:55,235 --> 00:11:56,820 - [James] That's so awesome, yeah! 217 00:11:56,820 --> 00:11:58,860 - [Colette] So sick dude! 218 00:11:58,860 --> 00:11:59,970 - [Nina] James was there 219 00:11:59,970 --> 00:12:02,780 and he definitely had the poker face. 220 00:12:02,780 --> 00:12:04,357 - I'm glad you didn't fall. 221 00:12:04,357 --> 00:12:05,190 - Me too. 222 00:12:06,050 --> 00:12:08,930 He looked calm and collected but I know underneath 223 00:12:08,930 --> 00:12:10,400 he was shaking like a leaf. 224 00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:11,789 - [Colette] Were you nervous? 225 00:12:11,789 --> 00:12:13,406 - Yeah, I kinda wanted to puke. 226 00:12:13,406 --> 00:12:15,470 (Colette laughs) 227 00:12:15,470 --> 00:12:18,430 I mean no, no, not nervous at all. 228 00:12:18,430 --> 00:12:22,670 - [Colette] James understands the consequences of falling. 229 00:12:22,670 --> 00:12:27,670 When he was younger he was free soloing, took a huge fall, 230 00:12:28,740 --> 00:12:30,923 and put himself in the hospital. 231 00:12:32,610 --> 00:12:35,840 - I was climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. 232 00:12:35,840 --> 00:12:38,373 The way backing up, this really cool crack, 233 00:12:39,287 --> 00:12:41,760 and I was about 10 feet from the summit. 234 00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:44,273 I felt myself barn door a little 235 00:12:45,610 --> 00:12:50,053 and then I fell and I fell 70 feet and hit this ledge. 236 00:12:51,780 --> 00:12:56,707 I spent 81 days in the hospital and had eight surgeries. 237 00:12:56,707 --> 00:13:01,707 It took me about a year to go from prone on my back 238 00:13:01,950 --> 00:13:03,383 to climbing again. 239 00:13:06,650 --> 00:13:08,683 Seeing Nina do a lot of these highballs, 240 00:13:09,660 --> 00:13:11,540 I understand what compels her 241 00:13:13,940 --> 00:13:18,100 but I never want her to have an accident like that. 242 00:13:18,100 --> 00:13:20,850 (peaceful music) 243 00:13:23,626 --> 00:13:24,970 When she first told me she wanted to do 244 00:13:24,970 --> 00:13:28,923 Too Big To Flail I wasn't exactly enthusiastic. 245 00:13:29,980 --> 00:13:31,543 It's just more dangerous. 246 00:13:34,670 --> 00:13:36,940 But you don't wanna discourage your partner 247 00:13:36,940 --> 00:13:38,023 from their goals. 248 00:13:39,380 --> 00:13:42,380 It's important just to be supportive. 249 00:13:42,380 --> 00:13:43,980 Gonna pre-make the coffee, yeah. 250 00:13:44,865 --> 00:13:47,570 - That's a keeper right there (laughs). 251 00:13:47,570 --> 00:13:50,260 - If she's gonna do something like this 252 00:13:50,260 --> 00:13:53,798 you can't project your own fears to much. 253 00:13:53,798 --> 00:13:56,310 (dramatic music) 254 00:13:56,310 --> 00:13:58,390 - I'm not sure if I would call Too Big To Flail 255 00:13:58,390 --> 00:13:59,963 the next logical step. 256 00:14:01,250 --> 00:14:04,473 I don't know if any of this is even logical to begin with. 257 00:14:05,540 --> 00:14:07,170 - Okay, you're on belay. 258 00:14:07,170 --> 00:14:09,070 - [Nina] The process began. 259 00:14:09,070 --> 00:14:11,163 Top rope in, check out the moves. 260 00:14:12,315 --> 00:14:16,777 It's slabby, it's insecure, and it's really reachy. 261 00:14:18,750 --> 00:14:22,580 I had seen Honnold on tip-toes reaching between his holds 262 00:14:22,580 --> 00:14:25,148 so I knew that I had to do it in my own way. 263 00:14:25,148 --> 00:14:26,308 - Is the foothold good? 264 00:14:26,308 --> 00:14:27,424 - No. 265 00:14:27,424 --> 00:14:28,674 - [James] Fuck. 266 00:14:32,150 --> 00:14:34,110 - [Nina] A couple of people have fallen 267 00:14:34,110 --> 00:14:35,563 off of this middle section. 268 00:14:36,480 --> 00:14:39,073 This guy Nick took a ground fall. 269 00:14:40,506 --> 00:14:41,339 - Fuck! 270 00:14:41,339 --> 00:14:42,860 - [Nina] Another climber had to jump off 271 00:14:42,860 --> 00:14:44,740 and fractured his ankle 272 00:14:45,940 --> 00:14:49,283 but no one's fallen off the top crux's. 273 00:14:52,380 --> 00:14:53,213 God damn. 274 00:14:55,200 --> 00:14:57,770 - [James] Nina figured out the crux moves 275 00:15:00,293 --> 00:15:03,757 and then on the top section she jumps her feet. 276 00:15:12,100 --> 00:15:15,193 Jumping, 45 feet off the ground without a rope. 277 00:15:16,720 --> 00:15:21,720 That's not ideal but she was very methodical about it. 278 00:15:24,111 --> 00:15:26,870 (piano music) 279 00:15:26,870 --> 00:15:29,970 - [Nina] I worked the climb so many times 280 00:15:31,700 --> 00:15:33,850 just getting it down to a point where I know 281 00:15:33,850 --> 00:15:37,350 that I have the physical capability to crimp on these holds 282 00:15:37,350 --> 00:15:40,481 and to place my feet and then to keep moving upwards 283 00:15:40,481 --> 00:15:44,150 because when I don't have a rope, I won't have a choice, 284 00:15:44,150 --> 00:15:45,963 there's no backing off. 285 00:15:46,835 --> 00:15:49,585 (peaceful music) 286 00:15:51,900 --> 00:15:56,900 I just wanna reach this state of action of my body 287 00:15:57,020 --> 00:15:59,371 and tranquility in my mind. 288 00:15:59,371 --> 00:16:02,288 (slow piano music) 289 00:16:05,020 --> 00:16:06,710 - [James] Today's the day. 290 00:16:06,710 --> 00:16:08,006 She's going for it. 291 00:16:08,006 --> 00:16:10,923 (slow piano music) 292 00:16:11,792 --> 00:16:15,897 I got the pads up but this thing's 50 feet tall 293 00:16:15,897 --> 00:16:19,543 there's not a whole lot we can do to spot her. 294 00:16:21,620 --> 00:16:24,810 I mean, she's up there by herself. 295 00:16:24,810 --> 00:16:27,977 (slow dramatic music) 296 00:16:29,570 --> 00:16:31,873 (Nina deep breathing) 297 00:16:31,873 --> 00:16:35,123 (eerie dramatic music) 298 00:16:57,673 --> 00:17:00,340 (Nina grunting) 299 00:18:03,604 --> 00:18:06,937 (upbeat dramatic music) 300 00:19:23,770 --> 00:19:28,280 - Being in tall places, I love that feeling 301 00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:32,080 of absolute certainty and control and confidence 302 00:19:32,080 --> 00:19:35,290 in a situation that seems totally dangerous. 303 00:19:35,290 --> 00:19:37,080 I'm so psyched! 304 00:19:37,080 --> 00:19:40,817 But I can say with certainty, I've got this. 305 00:19:40,817 --> 00:19:43,817 (slow upbeat music) 306 00:20:14,208 --> 00:20:16,000 (slow country music) 307 00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,430 - I talk to people and they say, where do you live? 308 00:20:18,430 --> 00:20:19,960 And I say Emery County and they say, 309 00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:21,360 we don't know where that is. 310 00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:26,123 Well it's in southeast, central Utah. 311 00:20:26,980 --> 00:20:28,380 - [Danny] Middle of nowhere. 312 00:20:29,420 --> 00:20:32,363 Things haven't changed for a long time around here. 313 00:20:34,050 --> 00:20:37,233 Until the climbers started showing up in Joes Valley. 314 00:20:38,288 --> 00:20:41,205 (slow banjo music) 315 00:20:46,522 --> 00:20:48,630 (upbeat music) 316 00:20:48,630 --> 00:20:50,920 - Our crew of climbers came out of Salt Lake City 317 00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:52,210 in the mid 90's. 318 00:20:52,210 --> 00:20:53,820 That generation of climber, in that era, 319 00:20:53,820 --> 00:20:56,180 bouldering was the new thing. 320 00:20:56,180 --> 00:20:58,620 - There was no harnesses, there was no rope, 321 00:20:58,620 --> 00:21:01,820 this was a new style of what climbing could be. 322 00:21:01,820 --> 00:21:02,841 - [Spotter] Come on! 323 00:21:02,841 --> 00:21:04,870 - [Steven] We were completely obsessed with our little world 324 00:21:04,870 --> 00:21:06,460 of burning each other off 325 00:21:06,460 --> 00:21:08,890 and trying to get as strong as possible. 326 00:21:08,890 --> 00:21:11,895 - The culture of it was young, punk rock, 327 00:21:11,895 --> 00:21:14,770 fuck everything we're just gonna go do what we want. 328 00:21:14,770 --> 00:21:17,900 Climbing back then, it was more on the fringe. 329 00:21:17,900 --> 00:21:19,510 - I think we were definitely outsiders. 330 00:21:19,510 --> 00:21:22,333 We were dallying from what's going on in the real world, 331 00:21:23,190 --> 00:21:24,390 on the road all the time. 332 00:21:24,390 --> 00:21:26,700 - We were fiending for a new rock. 333 00:21:26,700 --> 00:21:28,490 So when somebody says hey there's great boulders 334 00:21:28,490 --> 00:21:30,935 two and a half hours away from Salt Lake, let's go. 335 00:21:30,935 --> 00:21:31,970 - [Male Friend] Oh my God, there's a bird. 336 00:21:31,970 --> 00:21:36,001 - [Boone] We drove to Joes Valley, just like holy crap. 337 00:21:36,001 --> 00:21:38,478 (dramatic music) 338 00:21:38,478 --> 00:21:41,200 There's literally tens of thousands of boulders. 339 00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:43,110 This has everything we've ever looked for 340 00:21:43,110 --> 00:21:45,393 in a bouldering area, like this is sick. 341 00:21:46,860 --> 00:21:47,810 - There were suddenly these like 342 00:21:47,810 --> 00:21:49,703 striking black streak boulders. 343 00:21:50,640 --> 00:21:54,450 There was slab bouldering, steep bouldering, 344 00:21:54,450 --> 00:21:55,573 super high bouldering. 345 00:21:57,560 --> 00:21:59,760 - The Wild West mentallity of let's just go 346 00:21:59,760 --> 00:22:02,650 just around that corner and see what's over there. 347 00:22:02,650 --> 00:22:05,282 - [Mike] The more you hike, the more you're gonna find-- 348 00:22:05,282 --> 00:22:06,524 - Nice! 349 00:22:06,524 --> 00:22:07,560 Nice. 350 00:22:07,560 --> 00:22:10,042 - Classic climbing, then you just come here, 351 00:22:10,042 --> 00:22:11,250 and it was awesome. 352 00:22:11,250 --> 00:22:13,479 (dramatic music) 353 00:22:13,479 --> 00:22:17,896 - [Steven] Hold on (grunts in pain). 354 00:22:20,830 --> 00:22:22,610 - [Boone] Steven, he was really young, 355 00:22:22,610 --> 00:22:24,672 really friggin strong. 356 00:22:24,672 --> 00:22:27,696 (Steven screaming in pain) 357 00:22:27,696 --> 00:22:28,529 - I want my mommy. 358 00:22:28,529 --> 00:22:29,870 Can't put that in the video. 359 00:22:29,870 --> 00:22:31,590 - [Mike] Steven Jeffrey, he went down to Joes Valley 360 00:22:31,590 --> 00:22:34,910 and basically found his personal canvas. 361 00:22:34,910 --> 00:22:37,010 He put up some amazing problems. 362 00:22:37,010 --> 00:22:40,130 - So it's been, let's see, 25 years right? 363 00:22:40,130 --> 00:22:41,291 35 years? 364 00:22:41,291 --> 00:22:42,457 (laughs) 25 years-- 365 00:22:43,710 --> 00:22:47,150 I've been coming to Joes for over the last 20 years. 366 00:22:47,150 --> 00:22:50,320 I was 16, 17 years old. 367 00:22:50,320 --> 00:22:54,050 I would come down in my RV, kind of like runaway style kid 368 00:22:54,050 --> 00:22:56,153 going climbing on these rocks. 369 00:22:57,320 --> 00:22:58,840 It was just complete freedom 370 00:23:01,600 --> 00:23:05,370 but it felt like an alien place in a way. 371 00:23:05,370 --> 00:23:09,100 Joes Valley sits basically in the dead middle of Utah. 372 00:23:09,100 --> 00:23:12,970 This rural area, it would almost make me anxious 373 00:23:12,970 --> 00:23:13,860 sometimes when I come out here 374 00:23:13,860 --> 00:23:16,077 'cause I was this naive kid from the city 375 00:23:16,077 --> 00:23:17,820 and here was a whole different world. 376 00:23:17,820 --> 00:23:19,593 It was different culture down here. 377 00:23:20,570 --> 00:23:23,047 There was small town next to Joes Valley.` 378 00:23:23,940 --> 00:23:26,010 I was actually scared to even go in the grocery store 379 00:23:26,010 --> 00:23:28,050 to buy supplies 'cause it's like, 380 00:23:28,050 --> 00:23:30,053 man these are mean muggin people. 381 00:23:30,970 --> 00:23:32,460 - Yeah check this out. 382 00:23:32,460 --> 00:23:33,920 I remember going to a bar down there, 383 00:23:33,920 --> 00:23:35,527 the video camera dressed like a climber. 384 00:23:35,527 --> 00:23:37,670 one of the bartenders just shaking her hat at us 385 00:23:37,670 --> 00:23:39,032 and pointing at the door. 386 00:23:39,032 --> 00:23:39,865 - [Bar Patron] Get this motherfucker right here 387 00:23:39,865 --> 00:23:41,539 to shut the video camera off. 388 00:23:41,539 --> 00:23:42,720 - It wasn't like they didn't like us, 389 00:23:42,720 --> 00:23:44,346 it just they knew we weren't gonna fit in, 390 00:23:44,346 --> 00:23:46,920 it's not a safe place for everybody. 391 00:23:46,920 --> 00:23:48,870 When you go down there, you're in their country. 392 00:23:48,870 --> 00:23:50,970 - I remember camping the bottom of the left fork 393 00:23:50,970 --> 00:23:52,907 and some dudes in a big giant truck pull up 394 00:23:52,907 --> 00:23:54,530 and they're like hey you fucking hippies 395 00:23:54,530 --> 00:23:56,180 and start shooting a bunch of bullets 396 00:23:56,180 --> 00:23:59,120 over the top of our tents and we're just like, ah. 397 00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:01,608 - [Angry Man] What the fuck are you doing? 398 00:24:01,608 --> 00:24:02,890 - [Jared] We're camping here man. 399 00:24:02,890 --> 00:24:05,690 - The locals, they didn't know who we were 400 00:24:05,690 --> 00:24:07,555 and what we were doing. 401 00:24:07,555 --> 00:24:10,138 (upbeat music) 402 00:24:10,980 --> 00:24:13,610 - I can remember seeing the strange guys 403 00:24:13,610 --> 00:24:15,383 with the mattresses on their back. 404 00:24:17,042 --> 00:24:19,318 And I'm thinking, what in the world? 405 00:24:19,318 --> 00:24:20,160 (grunts) 406 00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:21,730 - They're doing what? 407 00:24:21,730 --> 00:24:23,680 They're climbing on our rocks (laughs)? 408 00:24:25,940 --> 00:24:27,240 - I mean I just couldn't imagine 409 00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:30,000 that being anything he'd really wanna do. 410 00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:31,729 - Ow, fuck. 411 00:24:31,729 --> 00:24:33,080 Fucking ow. 412 00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:36,230 - [Jared] Being an outsider and looking at bouldering 413 00:24:36,230 --> 00:24:37,893 just looks really weird. 414 00:24:37,893 --> 00:24:40,476 (upbeat music) 415 00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,950 - They all wanna climb up the hardest part 416 00:24:43,950 --> 00:24:46,440 of this 12 foot rock. 417 00:24:46,440 --> 00:24:47,450 - Ow! 418 00:24:47,450 --> 00:24:48,807 - It was just-- 419 00:24:48,807 --> 00:24:49,640 - Ow! 420 00:24:53,981 --> 00:24:54,814 - You okay? 421 00:24:54,814 --> 00:24:55,647 - Yeah, I'm good. 422 00:24:55,647 --> 00:24:56,480 - My first thoughts? 423 00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:57,313 They're crazy. 424 00:24:57,313 --> 00:24:59,860 (screams and barks) 425 00:24:59,860 --> 00:25:01,190 - In my head I kept thinking, 426 00:25:01,190 --> 00:25:04,473 do you not have rocks where you live? 427 00:25:05,750 --> 00:25:09,270 - Here in Emery County, this is a small community. 428 00:25:09,270 --> 00:25:11,600 Everybody kind of knows each other. 429 00:25:11,600 --> 00:25:15,650 We're cowboys and coal miners and power plant folks. 430 00:25:15,650 --> 00:25:17,980 - [Neil] We're quite a conservative group. 431 00:25:17,980 --> 00:25:21,910 - We are Mormons so we are very, very family oriented. 432 00:25:21,910 --> 00:25:25,500 - Yeah we're very, very churchy here I guess you could say. 433 00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:27,723 - We all try to protect our own. 434 00:25:30,020 --> 00:25:33,140 So when we saw the rock climbers coming to the area 435 00:25:34,657 --> 00:25:37,380 it was like hey, we don't know who these people are. 436 00:25:37,380 --> 00:25:40,040 - I was a manager at Food Ranch here in Orangeville. 437 00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:42,590 - Food Ranch the hot spot for the climbers. 438 00:25:42,590 --> 00:25:43,423 So this is where I come 439 00:25:43,423 --> 00:25:45,740 whenever I have a serious case of the munchies. 440 00:25:45,740 --> 00:25:49,470 - The owner was scared, he didn't know why they were here. 441 00:25:49,470 --> 00:25:51,760 They dressed a little different, they had the dreads, 442 00:25:51,760 --> 00:25:54,390 the man buns, you know we knew that they were showering 443 00:25:54,390 --> 00:25:55,860 in our bathrooms 'cause the bathroom floor 444 00:25:55,860 --> 00:25:57,483 would be wet, little smelly. 445 00:25:58,580 --> 00:26:01,410 - At Food Ranch I'd be hanging out there with my friends 446 00:26:01,410 --> 00:26:04,980 and these people would walk in and they look like vagabonds. 447 00:26:04,980 --> 00:26:08,173 Old dirty clothes like they'd been out walking in the mud. 448 00:26:09,210 --> 00:26:13,003 Just kind of gross, I feel so bad (laughs). 449 00:26:13,003 --> 00:26:16,490 - Especially back then, the climbers were, 450 00:26:16,490 --> 00:26:18,870 I mean the dirtbag was the real deal you know, 451 00:26:18,870 --> 00:26:22,410 like your down jacket was soiled. 452 00:26:22,410 --> 00:26:24,160 You look like a homeless person. 453 00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:25,920 - I don't mean this in no bad way 454 00:26:25,920 --> 00:26:29,020 but they reminded me of back in the 70's, 455 00:26:29,020 --> 00:26:31,823 the hippies, just free-spirited people. 456 00:26:31,823 --> 00:26:32,656 - Yeah! 457 00:26:32,656 --> 00:26:35,350 - You can tell the climbers just by, 458 00:26:35,350 --> 00:26:38,870 they look a little disheveled and tired. 459 00:26:38,870 --> 00:26:40,280 In fact we've heard a lot of climbers 460 00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:41,510 call themselves dirt baggers. 461 00:26:41,510 --> 00:26:43,380 - Yeah, we're scared to say that 462 00:26:43,380 --> 00:26:46,030 because we didn't ever want to offend anybody 463 00:26:46,030 --> 00:26:49,429 but they'll tell us, we're dirt baggers. 464 00:26:49,429 --> 00:26:54,250 - [Doug] And so they're here, where are they coming from? 465 00:26:54,250 --> 00:26:55,970 And coming into our little town. 466 00:26:55,970 --> 00:26:58,410 - There were a lot of people talking, in fact, 467 00:26:58,410 --> 00:27:00,310 there was a lot of concern. 468 00:27:00,310 --> 00:27:02,440 Are these guys going to kidnap our kids? 469 00:27:02,440 --> 00:27:04,680 - My mom was always like, Cambrie stay away 470 00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:07,550 from those people they're probably weirdos. 471 00:27:07,550 --> 00:27:09,610 - Yeah I wasn't exactly the poster boy 472 00:27:09,610 --> 00:27:12,127 for the Mormon community. 473 00:27:12,127 --> 00:27:14,420 My style, hey what's happening? 474 00:27:14,420 --> 00:27:17,273 I was Mad Max versus Flea. 475 00:27:18,418 --> 00:27:20,900 (screams) 476 00:27:20,900 --> 00:27:23,330 My van always had some sort of skull. 477 00:27:23,330 --> 00:27:26,360 The bone shifter, got my little friend hanging here, 478 00:27:26,360 --> 00:27:28,470 here's been out in the sun a little bit to long. 479 00:27:28,470 --> 00:27:29,363 Water fountain. 480 00:27:30,970 --> 00:27:32,790 - Whenever Jason stopped at a gas station 481 00:27:32,790 --> 00:27:35,358 he would put in six dollars and 66 cents of gas 482 00:27:35,358 --> 00:27:36,743 just to be weird. 483 00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,820 - Poster boy for being a freak. 484 00:27:40,820 --> 00:27:44,763 - We've heard that there's some goofy mother fucker around. 485 00:27:46,890 --> 00:27:50,366 - I wanted to make people think, confuse them, 486 00:27:50,366 --> 00:27:52,913 and I think it succeeded to come extent. 487 00:27:54,206 --> 00:27:56,230 (birds chirping) 488 00:27:56,230 --> 00:27:58,520 - For years there was just a small group of people 489 00:27:58,520 --> 00:28:01,010 climbing on the rocks in Joes Valley 490 00:28:01,010 --> 00:28:04,310 but climbing areas go through changes. 491 00:28:04,310 --> 00:28:06,040 The first turning point of Joes 492 00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:08,490 was descent of the Black Lung from Ben Moon. 493 00:28:08,490 --> 00:28:09,890 - [Steven] Ben Moon was one of the most famous 494 00:28:09,890 --> 00:28:11,670 climbers in the world. 495 00:28:11,670 --> 00:28:14,470 - He came over from England to Joes Valley. 496 00:28:14,470 --> 00:28:16,280 He was trying an undone project. 497 00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:18,650 It was absolutely gorgeous. 498 00:28:18,650 --> 00:28:19,483 - [Man] Nice. 499 00:28:19,483 --> 00:28:23,070 - [Steven] Technical, powerful, really hard. 500 00:28:23,070 --> 00:28:23,910 At the time it could have been 501 00:28:23,910 --> 00:28:25,868 the hardest boulder problem in the world . 502 00:28:25,868 --> 00:28:28,620 (screams in pain) 503 00:28:28,620 --> 00:28:30,310 - [Boone] It became this epic battle 504 00:28:30,310 --> 00:28:32,080 Ben had with the problem. 505 00:28:32,080 --> 00:28:33,740 - Come on Ben you dozy fuck. 506 00:28:34,663 --> 00:28:35,674 (screams in pain) 507 00:28:35,674 --> 00:28:36,507 Oh fuck. 508 00:28:36,507 --> 00:28:39,447 - I was thinking, I hope no locals can here us out here. 509 00:28:39,447 --> 00:28:40,363 Fuck. 510 00:28:41,563 --> 00:28:44,063 Piss off snow you fucking wanker. 511 00:28:45,013 --> 00:28:47,763 (dramatic drums) 512 00:28:51,540 --> 00:28:52,373 - [Man] Nice. 513 00:28:52,373 --> 00:28:54,210 - When Ben did Black Lung, 514 00:28:54,210 --> 00:28:55,990 I mean this is like the perfect lining 515 00:28:55,990 --> 00:28:57,250 in a developing area. 516 00:28:57,250 --> 00:29:00,180 - Fucking God damn it man, I got that perfect. 517 00:29:00,180 --> 00:29:01,644 - It put Joes on the map. 518 00:29:01,644 --> 00:29:03,190 - [Jason] Published in all the magazines 519 00:29:03,190 --> 00:29:04,570 throughout the world. 520 00:29:04,570 --> 00:29:07,500 You'd pick up Grimper in France and there's a picture of Ben 521 00:29:07,500 --> 00:29:09,510 climbing this iconic boulder problem. 522 00:29:09,510 --> 00:29:12,083 So now everyone wants to come to Joes Valley. 523 00:29:13,540 --> 00:29:17,054 - [Man] The climbing population started growing rapidly. 524 00:29:17,054 --> 00:29:18,500 - [Doug] All of a sudden there's a thousand people 525 00:29:18,500 --> 00:29:19,540 going over a weekend. 526 00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:22,290 Sprinter vans just bombarding up the canyon. 527 00:29:22,290 --> 00:29:24,760 - Tents all over the side of the road. 528 00:29:24,760 --> 00:29:26,580 - [Doug] It's an invasion of the entire world 529 00:29:26,580 --> 00:29:27,950 on this little place. 530 00:29:27,950 --> 00:29:29,910 - [Steven] I can understand locals being like, 531 00:29:29,910 --> 00:29:31,700 oh it's a nuisance. 532 00:29:31,700 --> 00:29:34,360 - Locals worried about to many people here, 533 00:29:34,360 --> 00:29:36,120 it was the us against them type deal 534 00:29:36,120 --> 00:29:38,560 and they're coming into our towns and our communities. 535 00:29:38,560 --> 00:29:41,830 - A lot of townspeople really was kind of against 536 00:29:41,830 --> 00:29:44,890 the climbers coming in and only wanted to keep them out. 537 00:29:44,890 --> 00:29:47,610 - Two climbers were sitting on the lawn at the library 538 00:29:47,610 --> 00:29:49,200 and got the cops call on them. 539 00:29:49,200 --> 00:29:51,870 - Honestly we thought we were being invaded 540 00:29:51,870 --> 00:29:53,935 by a bunch of potheads. 541 00:29:53,935 --> 00:29:55,580 (police siren) 542 00:29:55,580 --> 00:29:57,290 We found a little bit of pot on, 543 00:29:57,290 --> 00:30:00,009 pretty much everyone we did stop so. 544 00:30:00,009 --> 00:30:02,600 - [Steven] There was definitely tension building. 545 00:30:02,600 --> 00:30:03,433 - Get a job! 546 00:30:05,590 --> 00:30:07,280 - [Steven] I was worried that climbing access 547 00:30:07,280 --> 00:30:10,090 could be taken away or restricted from us 548 00:30:10,090 --> 00:30:12,480 because in a lot of areas across the United States 549 00:30:12,480 --> 00:30:15,620 people turn against climbing and even ban it 550 00:30:15,620 --> 00:30:17,923 and this one is just to good to lose. 551 00:30:18,870 --> 00:30:21,880 - There was this moment of, we need to connect 552 00:30:21,880 --> 00:30:24,000 before it explodes. 553 00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:26,890 So one day, I was at the Food Ranch 554 00:30:26,890 --> 00:30:30,413 and there was a sign saying city clean up. 555 00:30:31,380 --> 00:30:33,930 It was like perfect, let's go to the city clean up. 556 00:30:35,850 --> 00:30:37,500 So we show up in the morning 557 00:30:37,500 --> 00:30:41,060 and it's a bunch of ladies preparing food. 558 00:30:41,060 --> 00:30:44,660 - We look over and there's these 559 00:30:44,660 --> 00:30:47,050 different people over there. 560 00:30:47,050 --> 00:30:49,180 They look a little bit like bums, 561 00:30:49,180 --> 00:30:51,570 you think well maybe they're homeless 562 00:30:51,570 --> 00:30:53,753 and then they got up and walked over to us. 563 00:30:56,020 --> 00:30:58,180 - We're here for the clean up, when does it start? 564 00:30:58,180 --> 00:31:00,650 And the four ladies like, oh thank God we were just here 565 00:31:00,650 --> 00:31:02,450 thinking you needed food. 566 00:31:02,450 --> 00:31:06,510 - Oh my words, we were so excited we said, are you serious? 567 00:31:06,510 --> 00:31:08,203 You're here to help us? 568 00:31:09,350 --> 00:31:14,350 We were just amazed that outsiders would come in 569 00:31:14,400 --> 00:31:16,910 and give something to our community. 570 00:31:16,910 --> 00:31:19,476 - The classic part was, here I am shoveling on Main Street, 571 00:31:19,476 --> 00:31:21,680 it's a Saturday, all my friends from Salt Lake 572 00:31:21,680 --> 00:31:24,850 are coming to climb and they see me and they're like, 573 00:31:24,850 --> 00:31:26,080 what did you get arrested in town? 574 00:31:26,080 --> 00:31:28,240 What are you doing shoveling the sidewalk? 575 00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:30,884 And I'm like, city clean up day, I'm helping out. 576 00:31:30,884 --> 00:31:32,950 (truck engine passing by) 577 00:31:32,950 --> 00:31:34,840 - [Doug] After that I really started thinking 578 00:31:34,840 --> 00:31:37,340 about how climbers could help Emery County grow 579 00:31:39,090 --> 00:31:40,790 because the reality was this area 580 00:31:40,790 --> 00:31:42,433 had fallen on pretty hard times. 581 00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:48,720 - In Emery County we've had hay days and we've had slumps. 582 00:31:48,720 --> 00:31:53,083 Our major economic driver has always been coal. 583 00:31:54,780 --> 00:31:59,430 40 years ago there was 20 something mines in Emery County, 584 00:31:59,430 --> 00:32:03,970 now we have three running mines so it's not the job provider 585 00:32:03,970 --> 00:32:05,788 that it used to be. 586 00:32:05,788 --> 00:32:07,280 - Yeah the mines shutting down 587 00:32:07,280 --> 00:32:09,993 definitely has been a hardship. 588 00:32:10,929 --> 00:32:13,070 A lot of people had to move. 589 00:32:13,070 --> 00:32:15,230 - The power plants won't last forever 590 00:32:15,230 --> 00:32:17,340 so we need to figure out who we are 591 00:32:17,340 --> 00:32:20,840 and what we wanna become in the next 20 years. 592 00:32:20,840 --> 00:32:22,700 - There's a lot of concern that Emery County 593 00:32:22,700 --> 00:32:24,350 will become a ghost town someday. 594 00:32:25,840 --> 00:32:28,850 - This place was struggling, they just didn't know 595 00:32:28,850 --> 00:32:31,844 they were sitting on another great resource. 596 00:32:31,844 --> 00:32:33,547 - When the locals, like when we walk around 597 00:32:33,547 --> 00:32:36,148 we see these lines of stone and we're just like, 598 00:32:36,148 --> 00:32:38,073 oh my gosh, this is incredible. 599 00:32:38,073 --> 00:32:39,600 I was asked to give a presentation 600 00:32:39,600 --> 00:32:42,620 to the City Council about bouldering. 601 00:32:42,620 --> 00:32:47,010 People asked me, those things on your back, what is it? 602 00:32:47,010 --> 00:32:49,396 One local thought you climbed with it on your back 603 00:32:49,396 --> 00:32:52,573 and so when you fell you just jumped onto your back. 604 00:32:54,170 --> 00:32:56,760 I put up a photo of a Sprinter van and they all chuckled, 605 00:32:56,760 --> 00:32:58,870 oh yeah we see those all the time. 606 00:32:58,870 --> 00:33:01,640 The next photo is the inside of the Sprinter remodeled 607 00:33:01,640 --> 00:33:04,070 and how much all this cost. 608 00:33:04,070 --> 00:33:08,250 Climbing shoes are a $175, crash pads are $200. 609 00:33:08,250 --> 00:33:10,250 I was like, believe it or not these people 610 00:33:10,250 --> 00:33:13,700 living in the dirt, have money and spend it right? 611 00:33:13,700 --> 00:33:17,097 - So then people were saying that everyone's a millionaire 612 00:33:17,097 --> 00:33:19,000 who's a rock climber. 613 00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:21,370 I was like, these people are millionaires? 614 00:33:21,370 --> 00:33:24,500 I'm very confused as to why they're out here 615 00:33:24,500 --> 00:33:25,920 in Emery County instead of traveling 616 00:33:25,920 --> 00:33:27,100 to like Paris and stuff. 617 00:33:27,100 --> 00:33:29,120 - We left town and came back the next weekend 618 00:33:29,120 --> 00:33:32,260 and there's sign's saying we love rock climbers. 619 00:33:32,260 --> 00:33:35,400 Food Ranch was the first to catch on to the idea. 620 00:33:35,400 --> 00:33:36,520 Go in there and next thing you know 621 00:33:36,520 --> 00:33:40,053 there's chalk and crash pads. 622 00:33:41,160 --> 00:33:44,010 - This is the weirdest story but there was an empty bottle 623 00:33:44,010 --> 00:33:45,760 next to the dumpster at Food Ranch. 624 00:33:46,600 --> 00:33:50,130 You opened the lid, smelled it, like phew. 625 00:33:50,130 --> 00:33:52,140 We kept thinking, what is this? 626 00:33:52,140 --> 00:33:53,357 We started talking to a climber 627 00:33:53,357 --> 00:33:56,793 and he explained all about the probiotics and kombucha. 628 00:33:58,130 --> 00:34:00,610 They says if you carry it, we'll buy it. 629 00:34:00,610 --> 00:34:03,443 Started carrying it in every flavor that you could imagine. 630 00:34:04,340 --> 00:34:07,350 - The big final connection for rock climber to town 631 00:34:07,350 --> 00:34:10,320 was this idea of a festival. 632 00:34:10,320 --> 00:34:13,410 So it started out with me and my girlfriend Adriana, 633 00:34:13,410 --> 00:34:16,150 we were talking with some locals about it. 634 00:34:16,150 --> 00:34:17,690 - The whole concept for the festival, 635 00:34:17,690 --> 00:34:20,250 it's about bringing the two communities together, 636 00:34:20,250 --> 00:34:21,763 stepping outside your bubble. 637 00:34:23,370 --> 00:34:24,500 - Locals coming together 638 00:34:24,500 --> 00:34:27,430 with a bunch of crazy rock climbers. 639 00:34:27,430 --> 00:34:30,091 We weren't sure if it was gonna work out. 640 00:34:30,091 --> 00:34:32,275 - [Announcer] Hotdogs, get your hotdogs! 641 00:34:32,275 --> 00:34:35,026 Ketchup, mustard, relish, get your fixen's. 642 00:34:35,026 --> 00:34:37,268 (crown talking) 643 00:34:37,268 --> 00:34:39,140 - [Danny] We're gonna try to get to know each other better. 644 00:34:39,140 --> 00:34:42,167 - These are the best chili dogs I've ever ate. 645 00:34:43,440 --> 00:34:46,403 - Or even maybe learn some stuff in the process. 646 00:34:47,690 --> 00:34:49,200 - All right everyone let's get ready, 647 00:34:49,200 --> 00:34:50,980 let's get our crash pads and everything and let's head out 648 00:34:50,980 --> 00:34:52,587 to these boulders over here okay. 649 00:34:52,587 --> 00:34:54,400 (upbeat music) 650 00:34:54,400 --> 00:34:57,650 We had all kinds of folks from town come out. 651 00:34:57,650 --> 00:35:00,563 People who'd never even seen or worn climbing shoes, 652 00:35:01,980 --> 00:35:03,730 ascend their first boulder problem. 653 00:35:05,730 --> 00:35:08,330 - My name is Brooklynn Potter, I'm Miss Emery County. 654 00:35:08,330 --> 00:35:11,220 This is so much fun, I'm having a ball, 655 00:35:11,220 --> 00:35:13,720 I've tried new shoes on, that's great. 656 00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:14,553 Oh my goodness. 657 00:35:18,439 --> 00:35:19,911 (group cheering) 658 00:35:19,911 --> 00:35:20,800 - You actually need to move your hips this way. 659 00:35:20,800 --> 00:35:23,490 - The festival was my first time rock climbing. 660 00:35:23,490 --> 00:35:25,860 I was terrified, I'm so scared of heights. 661 00:35:25,860 --> 00:35:27,720 - Retreat and then just gonna take the fall. 662 00:35:27,720 --> 00:35:28,823 - It was daunting. 663 00:35:30,120 --> 00:35:32,039 - [Adriana] Once you step up you'll feel a lot better. 664 00:35:32,039 --> 00:35:33,580 - Fudgy heck yeah. 665 00:35:33,580 --> 00:35:35,453 After that I was hooked. 666 00:35:36,380 --> 00:35:37,777 I got the bug bad (laughs). 667 00:35:40,193 --> 00:35:41,764 (crowd cheering) 668 00:35:41,764 --> 00:35:42,677 - Is this the line? 669 00:35:42,677 --> 00:35:43,540 - [Steven] No, it's, jump right in. 670 00:35:43,540 --> 00:35:45,180 - Okay if you're gonna get a picture, 671 00:35:45,180 --> 00:35:46,430 you better friggin hurry. 672 00:35:47,371 --> 00:35:50,410 When I was their age, I would have got rid 673 00:35:50,410 --> 00:35:52,563 of all my fancy trucks and stuff. 674 00:35:55,790 --> 00:35:58,390 I coulda just come up here with one of them pads. 675 00:35:58,390 --> 00:36:01,140 (crowd cheering) 676 00:36:01,990 --> 00:36:03,163 You guys have fun. 677 00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:09,580 - [Danny] We never wanted it to be just a climbing festival. 678 00:36:09,580 --> 00:36:11,760 We wanna show climbers from all around the world 679 00:36:11,760 --> 00:36:13,840 the local culture and flavor around here. 680 00:36:13,840 --> 00:36:14,673 - Yeah! 681 00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:17,910 - So they can kinda understand our way of life 682 00:36:17,910 --> 00:36:20,380 and why we love it so much here. 683 00:36:20,380 --> 00:36:23,898 - We started doin a clinic on how to make jerky. 684 00:36:23,898 --> 00:36:25,530 And you just wanna, real light, 685 00:36:25,530 --> 00:36:27,490 pepper makes everything better. 686 00:36:27,490 --> 00:36:30,420 - The jerky was so good last time that I'm back, 687 00:36:30,420 --> 00:36:32,377 even though I am a vegetarian. 688 00:36:33,570 --> 00:36:34,860 - I hope they keep coming back 689 00:36:34,860 --> 00:36:37,420 and look forward to meeting a whole bunch more. 690 00:36:37,420 --> 00:36:39,340 (crowd laughing) 691 00:36:39,340 --> 00:36:41,680 - For the grand finale of the festival, 692 00:36:41,680 --> 00:36:43,573 we had something special in mind. 693 00:36:43,573 --> 00:36:45,480 (National anthem playing) 694 00:36:45,480 --> 00:36:47,410 - They said, we're gonna do a rodeo. 695 00:36:47,410 --> 00:36:48,710 - [Commentator] Showing off their riding skills 696 00:36:48,710 --> 00:36:52,026 while the rock climbers compete in a number of fun contests. 697 00:36:52,026 --> 00:36:55,943 (commentator speaking faintly) 698 00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:00,143 (crowd cheering) 699 00:37:00,143 --> 00:37:03,570 - The rock climbers getting on steers, 700 00:37:03,570 --> 00:37:05,580 oh this is such a bad idea. 701 00:37:05,580 --> 00:37:08,650 The first boulderer I seen do it walked out in flip flops. 702 00:37:08,650 --> 00:37:10,500 - I'm wearing sandals this is unfair. 703 00:37:12,492 --> 00:37:14,081 - I thought, it's not gonna end well. 704 00:37:14,081 --> 00:37:16,473 - [Commentator] Let's get out and let's make some noise-- 705 00:37:16,473 --> 00:37:20,598 (commentator speaking covered by crowd cheering) 706 00:37:20,598 --> 00:37:21,431 Oh! 707 00:37:21,431 --> 00:37:22,507 No points. 708 00:37:22,507 --> 00:37:25,283 - [Danny] The locals, they think these guys are nuts. 709 00:37:25,283 --> 00:37:29,433 (commentator speaking faintly) 710 00:37:29,433 --> 00:37:32,183 (crowd cheering) 711 00:37:34,137 --> 00:37:37,366 But it's one of the best events of the bouldering festival. 712 00:37:37,366 --> 00:37:39,689 - [Commentator] Oh! 713 00:37:39,689 --> 00:37:41,161 (crowd cheering) 714 00:37:41,161 --> 00:37:43,266 He's hanging on, squeezing those brakes. 715 00:37:43,266 --> 00:37:46,016 (crowd cheering) 716 00:37:54,595 --> 00:37:57,780 - [Gordon] The minute he opens his mouth he's lyin. 717 00:37:57,780 --> 00:38:00,800 - We're really glad to have you guys in the county 718 00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:03,830 at least somebody wants to come here. 719 00:38:03,830 --> 00:38:06,230 - You guys all come from anywhere you wanna come, 720 00:38:06,230 --> 00:38:08,041 we love bouldering. 721 00:38:08,041 --> 00:38:10,460 I hang on with these two fingers. 722 00:38:10,460 --> 00:38:11,570 - He fell off a boulder. 723 00:38:11,570 --> 00:38:12,967 - There's not a boulder I can't climb. 724 00:38:12,967 --> 00:38:15,680 - No, he fell off a boulder and hurt his shoulder. 725 00:38:15,680 --> 00:38:16,800 - Hit his shoulder. 726 00:38:16,800 --> 00:38:17,873 - Would you shut up. 727 00:38:20,620 --> 00:38:23,643 - Now climbing is part of town. 728 00:38:24,865 --> 00:38:28,343 The climbers fit in, they're welcomed in here. 729 00:38:29,290 --> 00:38:32,258 That change over, the acceptance of the climbing culture, 730 00:38:32,258 --> 00:38:35,250 its cool man, like there's a coffee shop now. 731 00:38:35,250 --> 00:38:39,870 - We grew up LDS Mormons and coffee and tea, 732 00:38:39,870 --> 00:38:42,030 you don't drink 'em. 733 00:38:42,030 --> 00:38:43,660 People would ask us, 734 00:38:43,660 --> 00:38:45,470 do you know where we could get a good cup of coffee? 735 00:38:45,470 --> 00:38:47,070 And we would always tell them, you have to go to Price, 736 00:38:47,070 --> 00:38:49,460 which is 30 miles north. 737 00:38:49,460 --> 00:38:51,990 We transformed the front room of our house 738 00:38:51,990 --> 00:38:55,193 into a little coffee shop for the climbers around here. 739 00:38:56,360 --> 00:38:57,880 They just keep coming back. 740 00:38:57,880 --> 00:39:00,470 - My favorite part is you become friends 741 00:39:00,470 --> 00:39:02,550 with people from all over the world. 742 00:39:02,550 --> 00:39:04,413 - I'm from Ecuador, got amazing people here 743 00:39:04,413 --> 00:39:06,236 that is really friendly. 744 00:39:06,236 --> 00:39:08,503 - Hola, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina. 745 00:39:08,503 --> 00:39:09,610 - Valencia, Espana. 746 00:39:09,610 --> 00:39:11,830 - My name is Christer, I'm from Norway. 747 00:39:11,830 --> 00:39:12,840 - Marseille, France. 748 00:39:12,840 --> 00:39:14,670 We had a good coffee and-- 749 00:39:14,670 --> 00:39:15,940 - Little tiny Orangeville, 750 00:39:15,940 --> 00:39:18,506 no name country town in the middle of no where. 751 00:39:18,506 --> 00:39:20,340 Tens of thousands of people come here, 752 00:39:20,340 --> 00:39:22,440 we counted 71 countries. 753 00:39:22,440 --> 00:39:24,750 (upbeat music) 754 00:39:24,750 --> 00:39:27,350 - It's really nice to have people from around the country 755 00:39:27,350 --> 00:39:30,810 and around the world bring that diversity into our community 756 00:39:30,810 --> 00:39:32,093 with different ideas. 757 00:39:33,240 --> 00:39:37,319 The rock climbers have made Emery County a better place. 758 00:39:37,319 --> 00:39:38,734 - You guys climbers? 759 00:39:38,734 --> 00:39:39,760 - [Cameraman] Yeah. 760 00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:43,610 - The people of our community, they know that our future's 761 00:39:43,610 --> 00:39:45,850 in bouldering, our future's in tourism. 762 00:39:45,850 --> 00:39:47,770 - I think one of the great things that's happened 763 00:39:47,770 --> 00:39:49,830 is that the local commissioners have gotten 764 00:39:49,830 --> 00:39:51,450 huge wilderness designation, 765 00:39:51,450 --> 00:39:54,330 like basically the entire San Rafael Swell. 766 00:39:54,330 --> 00:39:57,970 - The Emery County lands bill protects a million plus acres 767 00:39:57,970 --> 00:40:00,950 for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. 768 00:40:00,950 --> 00:40:03,830 - Right now our country is so divided 769 00:40:03,830 --> 00:40:06,880 and the outdoor recreation is that point at which 770 00:40:06,880 --> 00:40:11,302 diverse people can agree on things and work together on it. 771 00:40:11,302 --> 00:40:13,890 - [Interviewer] What about Steven Jeffrey, he's-- 772 00:40:13,890 --> 00:40:14,830 - Moved. 773 00:40:14,830 --> 00:40:16,723 Steven Jeffrey just moved there. 774 00:40:18,410 --> 00:40:21,400 - Adriana and I became a part of this community 775 00:40:21,400 --> 00:40:25,510 through our festival and now we live here. 776 00:40:25,510 --> 00:40:29,150 - I love Orangeville and I do not wanna leave, ever. 777 00:40:29,150 --> 00:40:30,970 - [Boone] Even as a mayor of Joe's Valley Bouldering now, 778 00:40:30,970 --> 00:40:33,520 I mean he's writing the guidebook and he's a local. 779 00:40:34,980 --> 00:40:37,648 I mean he loves that place you know. 780 00:40:37,648 --> 00:40:42,648 ♪ Oh lord I see what brings me here ♪ 781 00:40:44,384 --> 00:40:48,801 ♪ It's a mother to all my wandering ♪ 782 00:40:50,120 --> 00:40:53,040 - When I first started coming down here 25 years ago 783 00:40:53,040 --> 00:40:54,370 I was a scared little kid 784 00:40:54,370 --> 00:40:56,970 just looking for boulders to climb on. 785 00:40:56,970 --> 00:40:58,720 If anyone told me this is the place 786 00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:00,610 where I'd be settling down and livin, 787 00:41:00,610 --> 00:41:02,560 I would definitely think you were crazy 788 00:41:04,140 --> 00:41:07,100 but honestly I couldn't find a better place on Earth 789 00:41:07,100 --> 00:41:08,311 than Joe's Valley. 790 00:41:08,311 --> 00:41:13,311 ♪ And girls will come in first in clothes ♪ 791 00:41:14,361 --> 00:41:19,361 ♪ And the boys will wait a gazing ♪ 792 00:41:21,043 --> 00:41:26,043 ♪ And birds will sing from tops of trees ♪ 793 00:41:27,471 --> 00:41:31,388 ♪ And sunlight, falling angels ♪ 794 00:41:35,567 --> 00:41:38,817 (dramatic piano music) 795 00:41:45,109 --> 00:41:47,609 (piano music) 796 00:42:01,020 --> 00:42:03,310 - [Alex] The Nose is 3000 feet of climbing, 797 00:42:03,310 --> 00:42:04,227 straight up the center of El Capitan. 798 00:42:04,227 --> 00:42:08,987 It's one of the most famous, historic routes in the world. 799 00:42:10,677 --> 00:42:12,460 The speed record on the nose 800 00:42:12,460 --> 00:42:15,350 has always been a series competition. 801 00:42:15,350 --> 00:42:16,610 The different climbing heroes 802 00:42:16,610 --> 00:42:18,750 breaking the record back and forth. 803 00:42:18,750 --> 00:42:21,863 I mean, climbing El Cap really quickly is pretty hardcore. 804 00:42:24,774 --> 00:42:26,272 - [Interviewer] Give me a brief history 805 00:42:26,272 --> 00:42:27,362 of speed climbing on The Nose. 806 00:42:27,362 --> 00:42:30,616 - A brief history of speed climbing on The Nose. 807 00:42:30,616 --> 00:42:32,780 (hammer clanging) 808 00:42:32,780 --> 00:42:35,800 The Nose was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding. 809 00:42:35,800 --> 00:42:37,680 It was the first rock climb of that scale 810 00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:40,430 that had ever been done and it took 40 days. 811 00:42:40,430 --> 00:42:41,600 Since then people have been trying 812 00:42:41,600 --> 00:42:43,480 to climb it faster and faster. 813 00:42:43,480 --> 00:42:45,190 Royal Robbins did it in a week. 814 00:42:45,190 --> 00:42:46,900 - The second the center of The Nose was a move 815 00:42:46,900 --> 00:42:48,280 on the Yosemite chess board, 816 00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:50,720 and who ever makes the best moves is going to win. 817 00:42:50,720 --> 00:42:53,430 - [Alex] Each generation writes its own history on The Nose. 818 00:42:53,430 --> 00:42:56,254 In the 80's, Peter Croft started pushing it faster. 819 00:42:56,254 --> 00:42:57,740 (dramatic music) 820 00:42:57,740 --> 00:42:59,640 - If I can do that fast then I've got 821 00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:01,830 the whole afternoon free to do something else. 822 00:43:01,830 --> 00:43:04,740 - [Alex] In the early 90's Hans Florine entered the scene 823 00:43:04,740 --> 00:43:07,934 and basically ushered in the modern era of speed climbing. 824 00:43:07,934 --> 00:43:09,690 (dramatic music) 825 00:43:09,690 --> 00:43:12,790 - Speed climbing The Nose is the ultimate expression 826 00:43:12,790 --> 00:43:15,011 of how competent a climber you are. 827 00:43:15,011 --> 00:43:18,470 To race up this 3000 foot wall in under three hours. 828 00:43:18,470 --> 00:43:19,966 You have to have the skills 829 00:43:19,966 --> 00:43:22,940 and endurance like a marathon runner. 830 00:43:22,940 --> 00:43:25,720 It is the most badass competition there is. 831 00:43:25,720 --> 00:43:29,683 Fastest time up the most incredible rock face in the world. 832 00:43:30,659 --> 00:43:32,700 I think this record will last for a good long time. 833 00:43:32,700 --> 00:43:34,735 - [Alex] All these incredibly talented climbers 834 00:43:34,735 --> 00:43:36,863 started to compete in that arena. 835 00:43:38,150 --> 00:43:40,363 Legendary figures like the Huber brothers. 836 00:43:41,640 --> 00:43:43,098 - And that should be clipped to the bottom belt? 837 00:43:43,098 --> 00:43:43,931 - Yup. 838 00:43:43,931 --> 00:43:45,310 - [Alex] More women got into the speed climbing game 839 00:43:45,310 --> 00:43:48,380 like Quinn Brett, Libby Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat. 840 00:43:48,380 --> 00:43:51,755 - It's pretty risky, you face some really big falls. 841 00:43:51,755 --> 00:43:54,810 (climbers chanting) 842 00:43:54,810 --> 00:43:57,280 - [Alex] Hans recruited Yuji Hirayama. 843 00:43:57,280 --> 00:43:59,888 - We're down to not just minutes, but to seconds. 844 00:43:59,888 --> 00:44:01,900 (group cheering) 845 00:44:01,900 --> 00:44:03,270 - The record went back and forth. 846 00:44:03,270 --> 00:44:06,380 We wanna one up each other, we wanna be number one. 847 00:44:06,380 --> 00:44:08,710 The whole strategy starts to become more extreme. 848 00:44:08,710 --> 00:44:11,140 At the boot I run out the entire back, 849 00:44:11,140 --> 00:44:14,760 just hold the rope with my hands as Sean swings across. 850 00:44:14,760 --> 00:44:17,280 Basically just less protection, bigger risks. 851 00:44:17,280 --> 00:44:18,578 - Oh dear, don't fall. 852 00:44:18,578 --> 00:44:19,411 Okay. 853 00:44:19,411 --> 00:44:21,656 - It's coming close to a certain limit. 854 00:44:21,656 --> 00:44:22,580 (climber screaming) 855 00:44:22,580 --> 00:44:24,610 - Just a barely increase there. 856 00:44:24,610 --> 00:44:27,150 - [Alex] In 2012 Dean Potter shaved a few seconds 857 00:44:27,150 --> 00:44:30,900 off the time and Hans had to hitch his wagon to a new horse. 858 00:44:30,900 --> 00:44:32,530 - I'd been looking around for somebody else 859 00:44:32,530 --> 00:44:37,069 I can team up with, I thought, Alex Honnald soloed half-dome 860 00:44:37,069 --> 00:44:39,403 let's pull him into the mix. 861 00:44:39,403 --> 00:44:41,470 - [Alex] I mean, Hans did literally write the book 862 00:44:41,470 --> 00:44:42,970 How To Speed Climb which I read 863 00:44:42,970 --> 00:44:44,380 and learned how to speed climb from 864 00:44:44,380 --> 00:44:46,830 so it was pretty exciting for me. 865 00:44:46,830 --> 00:44:48,965 I think the biggest take away was how systematically 866 00:44:48,965 --> 00:44:51,620 he approached the entire experience. 867 00:44:51,620 --> 00:44:52,540 I was wondering about that. 868 00:44:52,540 --> 00:44:55,290 You had to memorize all the moves, all the gear, 869 00:44:55,290 --> 00:44:56,580 you had to know what your partner's doing 870 00:44:56,580 --> 00:44:58,400 in the different places, you had to figure out 871 00:44:58,400 --> 00:45:01,220 all these different ways to refine things down 872 00:45:01,220 --> 00:45:02,743 as near to perfection as you can. 873 00:45:02,743 --> 00:45:04,675 (dramatic music) 874 00:45:04,675 --> 00:45:07,713 When you get to climb that well, it's so fun. 875 00:45:08,790 --> 00:45:11,500 Hans and I set a new record of two, 23, 46 876 00:45:11,500 --> 00:45:13,460 and we were pretty satisfied with ourselves. 877 00:45:13,460 --> 00:45:16,030 Then after five years these two guys, 878 00:45:16,030 --> 00:45:18,220 Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds came along. 879 00:45:18,220 --> 00:45:20,600 - We're kind of the dirt bag monkeys. 880 00:45:20,600 --> 00:45:22,720 - [Alex] And they managed to break it. 881 00:45:22,720 --> 00:45:24,070 Which is pretty impressive. 882 00:45:25,270 --> 00:45:26,640 - When we topped out, you know I made 883 00:45:26,640 --> 00:45:30,830 a little Instagram post then and I got a text from Alex 884 00:45:30,830 --> 00:45:33,520 literally less than a minute after I'd made the post, 885 00:45:33,520 --> 00:45:35,270 like hey, congrats you know. 886 00:45:35,270 --> 00:45:37,013 A quick little, like hey, good job guys, 887 00:45:37,013 --> 00:45:38,780 all right, I'm calling Tommy. 888 00:45:38,780 --> 00:45:40,600 (both laughing) 889 00:45:40,600 --> 00:45:43,690 - In the past, you know the players, like the Hubers, 890 00:45:43,690 --> 00:45:47,150 frickin the Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama, these are pros, 891 00:45:47,150 --> 00:45:49,150 these are like the best climbers in the world. 892 00:45:49,150 --> 00:45:52,310 And then Brad and Jim, the dark horses, 893 00:45:52,310 --> 00:45:55,237 I did not see that one coming that's for sure (laughs). 894 00:45:56,466 --> 00:45:57,960 (Jim laughing) 895 00:45:57,960 --> 00:46:01,200 I barely knew who they were, they just came outta nowhere 896 00:46:01,200 --> 00:46:02,870 and broke The Nose speed record. 897 00:46:02,870 --> 00:46:04,270 - [Interviewer] How many interviews have you done 898 00:46:04,270 --> 00:46:06,200 on camera before today? 899 00:46:06,200 --> 00:46:08,840 - Probably none, I've done no interviews 900 00:46:08,840 --> 00:46:10,140 on camera before (laughs). 901 00:46:11,120 --> 00:46:13,850 - See my vocabulary sucks so I'm always like, I start talkin 902 00:46:13,850 --> 00:46:16,630 and I'm like what the fuck am I saying? 903 00:46:16,630 --> 00:46:18,410 What am I trying to say? 904 00:46:18,410 --> 00:46:20,493 - [Tommy] They seem kind of goofy and fun. 905 00:46:20,493 --> 00:46:25,280 - Look at this, crispy, the pet squirrel. 906 00:46:25,280 --> 00:46:27,160 - They live kind of like derelicts. 907 00:46:27,160 --> 00:46:29,610 - All right, yeah, welcome to the place guys, 908 00:46:29,610 --> 00:46:32,410 step through the gate, watch your head on the skeleton. 909 00:46:32,410 --> 00:46:35,610 We got our stick walls, to give us a little bit of privacy. 910 00:46:35,610 --> 00:46:37,330 Do you wanna come inside? 911 00:46:37,330 --> 00:46:40,240 We've got basic supplies, the climbing gear, 912 00:46:40,240 --> 00:46:42,220 the cam shackles, the Beargrease. 913 00:46:42,220 --> 00:46:44,350 This is the finger board, it's good 914 00:46:44,350 --> 00:46:46,540 'cause it's got big holds. 915 00:46:46,540 --> 00:46:48,170 These are the ones I grab onto. 916 00:46:48,170 --> 00:46:49,813 We've got this nice collage of all my friends 917 00:46:49,813 --> 00:46:52,130 I don't think I actually know any of those people 918 00:46:52,130 --> 00:46:54,740 but it's a nice collage. 919 00:46:54,740 --> 00:46:56,980 Dean Potter shows us the way. 920 00:46:56,980 --> 00:46:59,130 We follow in Deans footsteps. 921 00:46:59,130 --> 00:47:02,304 This is where we keep the katana, right here. 922 00:47:02,304 --> 00:47:07,200 This is, been in my family for at least a generation 923 00:47:07,200 --> 00:47:09,970 which I guess means, my brother gave it to me 924 00:47:09,970 --> 00:47:14,125 and yeah that's what we use to combat all evil. 925 00:47:14,125 --> 00:47:15,470 - [Interviewer] What kind of music do you listen too? 926 00:47:15,470 --> 00:47:19,170 - Mainly death metal, yup, the heavier, the faster, 927 00:47:19,170 --> 00:47:21,727 gets me stoked, makes me feel like life is epic 928 00:47:21,727 --> 00:47:23,670 'cause life is epic. 929 00:47:23,670 --> 00:47:27,821 Got the heavy drums, the shreddin guitar, 930 00:47:27,821 --> 00:47:30,821 (heavy metal music) 931 00:47:37,650 --> 00:47:40,508 that's what you need, that's what you need right there. 932 00:47:40,508 --> 00:47:43,508 (heavy metal music) 933 00:47:48,370 --> 00:47:50,180 Welcome to the circle of power, 934 00:47:50,180 --> 00:47:54,610 this is where we come to focus our chi, not really, 935 00:47:54,610 --> 00:47:56,650 don't know any martial arts necessarily 936 00:47:56,650 --> 00:47:59,190 but know we're trying to get all centered 937 00:47:59,190 --> 00:48:00,401 and ready for The Nose. 938 00:48:00,401 --> 00:48:03,940 (heavy metal music) 939 00:48:03,940 --> 00:48:06,540 - Jim and I put in a lot of work, just that season, 940 00:48:06,540 --> 00:48:08,870 we climbed it 11 times. 941 00:48:08,870 --> 00:48:11,370 Trying to perfect that strategy just right 942 00:48:11,370 --> 00:48:14,720 to where we could shave off just a few minutes. 943 00:48:14,720 --> 00:48:17,223 Go by go we were running it out a little more, 944 00:48:17,223 --> 00:48:19,250 error back was getting thinner and thinner. 945 00:48:19,250 --> 00:48:21,360 For my half I made it to the top of Boots Leg 946 00:48:21,360 --> 00:48:25,310 which is 1500 feet up and I only placed three cams 947 00:48:25,310 --> 00:48:27,050 in that entire time. 948 00:48:27,050 --> 00:48:29,280 - [Interviewer] How safe was your ascent? 949 00:48:29,280 --> 00:48:32,420 - To say it's safe would be total lie, 950 00:48:32,420 --> 00:48:33,983 I mean it's not that safe. 951 00:48:36,341 --> 00:48:37,700 It's like it is definitely dangerous 952 00:48:37,700 --> 00:48:42,700 but we would try to make it as reckless as possible. 953 00:48:45,520 --> 00:48:46,620 Let me redo that. 954 00:48:46,620 --> 00:48:51,620 It's like, The Nose record is absolutely dangerous, 955 00:48:51,670 --> 00:48:55,370 there's no getting around that but the goal 956 00:48:55,370 --> 00:48:58,947 is to try to make it just-- 957 00:49:02,550 --> 00:49:04,670 God damn it I can't speak. 958 00:49:04,670 --> 00:49:05,870 What am I trying to say? 959 00:49:07,932 --> 00:49:10,023 The least amount of recklessness, yeah. 960 00:49:11,070 --> 00:49:11,903 Holy shit. 961 00:49:11,903 --> 00:49:13,250 On the record go, like a dumbass, 962 00:49:13,250 --> 00:49:15,140 I just forgot to drink water, 963 00:49:15,140 --> 00:49:17,400 I was like holy crap man I'm thirsty. 964 00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:19,610 I got up to the Dolt Tower and there's a party up there 965 00:49:19,610 --> 00:49:22,300 and I was like, can I have some water? 966 00:49:22,300 --> 00:49:23,617 - [Austin] Need coffee or anything? 967 00:49:23,617 --> 00:49:25,490 - No, do you have any water up there? 968 00:49:25,490 --> 00:49:26,610 - [Austin] Yeah lots. 969 00:49:26,610 --> 00:49:28,130 - [Brad] I was breathing super heavy 970 00:49:28,130 --> 00:49:29,943 and I'm trying to drink and I choked. 971 00:49:32,250 --> 00:49:34,531 - Just like coughed into their water bottle 972 00:49:34,531 --> 00:49:36,181 and gave it back (laughs). 973 00:49:36,181 --> 00:49:37,089 - I'm like, thank you. 974 00:49:37,089 --> 00:49:38,697 (Jim laughing) 975 00:49:38,697 --> 00:49:39,700 - The less you have, the better, 976 00:49:39,700 --> 00:49:42,320 because if you have nothing on you then you're light 977 00:49:42,320 --> 00:49:44,890 and free and you can climb really fast, 978 00:49:44,890 --> 00:49:46,970 just like being a runner you know, 979 00:49:46,970 --> 00:49:49,310 they got those little tiny shorts that they run with. 980 00:49:49,310 --> 00:49:51,860 Yeah I would go up there and I wouldn't wanna wear underwear 981 00:49:51,860 --> 00:49:54,010 'cause it'd weigh me down to much (laughs). 982 00:49:55,690 --> 00:49:57,620 The closer we're getting to the record 983 00:49:57,620 --> 00:49:59,900 maybe we're pushing that boundary between dangerous 984 00:49:59,900 --> 00:50:01,943 and reckless just a little bit more. 985 00:50:03,100 --> 00:50:05,960 You're starting to wonder, can we just take a little bit 986 00:50:05,960 --> 00:50:08,570 more risk and get it finished so that 987 00:50:08,570 --> 00:50:12,499 we don't have to come back and take all that risk again? 988 00:50:12,499 --> 00:50:15,450 (dramatic music) 989 00:50:15,450 --> 00:50:18,280 - [Brad] Part of the strategy is that I need to be right on 990 00:50:18,280 --> 00:50:22,010 Jim's ass for that last pitch 'cause the time doesn't stop 991 00:50:22,010 --> 00:50:23,470 until I touch the tree. 992 00:50:23,470 --> 00:50:26,523 Yeah, I'm giving it everything I got. 993 00:50:27,440 --> 00:50:29,500 I'm just sticking my fingers through the hangers, 994 00:50:29,500 --> 00:50:31,640 I'm not clipping them with carabiners. 995 00:50:31,640 --> 00:50:33,380 - I heard that at the top Brad was literally just holding on 996 00:50:33,380 --> 00:50:36,220 with his fingers to the bolts and just plowing across 997 00:50:36,220 --> 00:50:38,370 and they had an entire 60 meter rope hanging between them 998 00:50:38,370 --> 00:50:40,510 but with nothing clipped and you're like what? 999 00:50:40,510 --> 00:50:42,764 Like what are you guys doing? 1000 00:50:42,764 --> 00:50:44,530 - This one final bolt that I clipped 1001 00:50:44,530 --> 00:50:46,680 just so that we're clipped into something 1002 00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:48,760 but this time I'm like we're gonna break the record 1003 00:50:48,760 --> 00:50:50,290 there's no time for anything. 1004 00:50:50,290 --> 00:50:53,357 So I skip it and it's a little Dean Potter quote, 1005 00:50:53,357 --> 00:50:55,437 "No gear, no falls". 1006 00:50:55,437 --> 00:50:56,937 "No gear, no falls". 1007 00:50:58,020 --> 00:51:00,180 Brad's down there just like monoing 1008 00:51:00,180 --> 00:51:01,460 through the bolt hangers. 1009 00:51:01,460 --> 00:51:03,130 - I was like, what does he mean? 1010 00:51:03,130 --> 00:51:03,963 Like there's no gear? 1011 00:51:03,963 --> 00:51:04,796 What? 1012 00:51:04,796 --> 00:51:06,840 I remember pulling over to this one lip 1013 00:51:06,840 --> 00:51:08,560 and I was like, yeah he's not joking, 1014 00:51:08,560 --> 00:51:10,596 there's no gear between us. 1015 00:51:10,596 --> 00:51:13,596 (heavy metal music) 1016 00:51:18,370 --> 00:51:19,939 - Yeah man, come on! 1017 00:51:19,939 --> 00:51:21,718 We got this! 1018 00:51:21,718 --> 00:51:22,801 Come on Brad! 1019 00:51:23,717 --> 00:51:24,982 Come on! 1020 00:51:24,982 --> 00:51:26,640 Yeah man! 1021 00:51:26,640 --> 00:51:27,473 - Cool. 1022 00:51:28,580 --> 00:51:31,620 - Oh my God, we did it (Brads speech muffled by Jim) 1023 00:51:31,620 --> 00:51:34,740 - When Brad and Jim took Alex's record, 1024 00:51:34,740 --> 00:51:36,930 Alex started talking about recruiting me. 1025 00:51:36,930 --> 00:51:40,140 - There aren't that many potential partners out there 1026 00:51:40,140 --> 00:51:41,310 for speed climbing The Nose, 1027 00:51:41,310 --> 00:51:42,280 there's just not that many people 1028 00:51:42,280 --> 00:51:45,093 who can physically climb 3000 feet really fast. 1029 00:51:46,470 --> 00:51:48,440 To me the most obvious choice is Tommy Caldwell. 1030 00:51:48,440 --> 00:51:49,740 He's a really good trad climber, 1031 00:51:49,740 --> 00:51:51,210 he's a really good granite climber, 1032 00:51:51,210 --> 00:51:52,590 I mean my shoes are named after him 1033 00:51:52,590 --> 00:51:54,560 so that's always a good sign. 1034 00:51:54,560 --> 00:51:58,340 - Alex is the best climber for that style of rock climbing 1035 00:51:58,340 --> 00:52:00,960 and so when two monkeys crawl outta the boulders 1036 00:52:00,960 --> 00:52:05,230 and take his record, he's gotta team up with the other Titan 1037 00:52:05,230 --> 00:52:08,620 of Yosemite rock climbing and show us how it's done 1038 00:52:08,620 --> 00:52:10,100 but we'll see. 1039 00:52:10,100 --> 00:52:10,933 - We'll see. 1040 00:52:10,933 --> 00:52:11,766 (Jim laughs) 1041 00:52:11,766 --> 00:52:12,599 - Yeah, we'll see. 1042 00:52:14,043 --> 00:52:16,971 - You know there's a video clip of Brad and Jim climbing it. 1043 00:52:16,971 --> 00:52:18,253 - Brad Gobright-- 1044 00:52:18,253 --> 00:52:21,047 - When two aspiring amateurs dis you on the tally pull. 1045 00:52:21,047 --> 00:52:23,693 - It was 2, 19, 44, I thought it was 2, 17, 44. 1046 00:52:23,693 --> 00:52:24,969 - Oh yeah now it seems pretty obtainable. 1047 00:52:24,969 --> 00:52:25,969 - Yeah. 1048 00:52:25,969 --> 00:52:27,760 - Oh well, 2,19. 1049 00:52:27,760 --> 00:52:29,885 Whoa, look how far he's swinging for the King Swing. 1050 00:52:29,885 --> 00:52:31,562 (Tommy laughs) 1051 00:52:31,562 --> 00:52:33,430 Look how much jumping he's doing, that can't be the way 1052 00:52:33,430 --> 00:52:35,080 he actually did it, that's crazy. 1053 00:52:36,174 --> 00:52:38,460 What a (speech muffled from food in Jims mouth) 1054 00:52:38,460 --> 00:52:41,992 and his rope is just flossing across the ledge. 1055 00:52:41,992 --> 00:52:43,490 - I like critiquing somebodies else's climbing 1056 00:52:43,490 --> 00:52:44,743 while you sit and eat chips. 1057 00:52:44,743 --> 00:52:45,900 (Tommy laughs) 1058 00:52:45,900 --> 00:52:48,610 (chip crunching) 1059 00:52:48,610 --> 00:52:50,030 I mean not to throw them under the bus 1060 00:52:50,030 --> 00:52:51,420 but when you watch the time lapse 1061 00:52:51,420 --> 00:52:54,470 of the two of them climbing The Nose in a couple minutes. 1062 00:52:54,470 --> 00:52:57,678 I mean, it looks sketchy. 1063 00:52:57,678 --> 00:52:59,140 - Oh man, he's really close. 1064 00:52:59,140 --> 00:53:00,772 - Yeah, he's so close and I'm sure 1065 00:53:00,772 --> 00:53:02,470 they don't have any gear clipped. 1066 00:53:02,470 --> 00:53:04,590 I mean Brad's like 15 feet behind him. 1067 00:53:04,590 --> 00:53:05,423 - Yeah. 1068 00:53:05,423 --> 00:53:07,224 - I mean Brad could pass him right there if he wanted too. 1069 00:53:07,224 --> 00:53:08,290 (Tommy laughs) 1070 00:53:08,290 --> 00:53:09,123 Brad should have played through, 1071 00:53:09,123 --> 00:53:11,160 I mean they have the whole 60 meter rope out 1072 00:53:11,160 --> 00:53:12,400 with nothing clipped, 1073 00:53:12,400 --> 00:53:16,228 it's just not the way we're gonna do it. 1074 00:53:16,228 --> 00:53:18,600 - No (laughs). 1075 00:53:18,600 --> 00:53:19,590 - That's crazy. 1076 00:53:19,590 --> 00:53:21,115 - Alex had told me a couple times, he's like 1077 00:53:21,115 --> 00:53:25,060 dude you guys are sketch up there, that seems really sketchy 1078 00:53:25,060 --> 00:53:27,450 and I was like, yeah it's sketchy 1079 00:53:27,450 --> 00:53:29,913 but that's why I've got the record and you don't. 1080 00:53:35,853 --> 00:53:39,950 - The Nose speed record is one of the big games in climbing. 1081 00:53:39,950 --> 00:53:41,800 I mean I've always been curious 1082 00:53:41,800 --> 00:53:45,490 but yeah I always thought speed climbing was kinda dangerous 1083 00:53:45,490 --> 00:53:50,273 and I've never been the danger guy but climbing with Alex, 1084 00:53:50,273 --> 00:53:52,380 it's just so fun. 1085 00:53:52,380 --> 00:53:54,840 Pretty much any time Alex says let's go do something 1086 00:53:54,840 --> 00:53:56,500 I'm gonna say yes. 1087 00:53:56,500 --> 00:53:58,563 He's my bad influence friend, absolutely. 1088 00:53:59,560 --> 00:54:00,393 - How are you guys? 1089 00:54:00,393 --> 00:54:01,439 How's the fam been? 1090 00:54:01,439 --> 00:54:04,310 - Good, good, yeah the fam's so good these days. 1091 00:54:04,310 --> 00:54:05,640 They don't like it when I leave, 1092 00:54:05,640 --> 00:54:08,430 that part sucks but everything else is-- 1093 00:54:08,430 --> 00:54:10,950 - It's a good thing you're only gone for a month huh? 1094 00:54:10,950 --> 00:54:12,447 - Oh my gosh, are you gone for a month? 1095 00:54:12,447 --> 00:54:14,200 - Well they're gonna come and hang. 1096 00:54:14,200 --> 00:54:15,033 - Oh okay. 1097 00:54:17,518 --> 00:54:19,550 - [Tommy] Wow, I get like shakey excited 1098 00:54:19,550 --> 00:54:21,390 every time I come here still. 1099 00:54:21,390 --> 00:54:23,180 Still happens, it's pretty rad. 1100 00:54:23,180 --> 00:54:25,200 - [Alex] It's pretty exciting. 1101 00:54:25,200 --> 00:54:29,470 - [Tommy] The last couple years, my life is so different, 1102 00:54:29,470 --> 00:54:33,733 I've got two kids now, the Dawn Wall movie's coming out, 1103 00:54:34,600 --> 00:54:36,820 I wrote a book and I've been flying 1104 00:54:36,820 --> 00:54:38,930 all over the place doing events. 1105 00:54:38,930 --> 00:54:40,300 I just haven't been able to get out 1106 00:54:40,300 --> 00:54:44,403 and have these adventures but I crave it to my core. 1107 00:54:45,990 --> 00:54:49,780 The whole game of racing the clock was totally new to me 1108 00:54:49,780 --> 00:54:52,653 but I wanted to at least see what it was like. 1109 00:54:53,882 --> 00:54:55,492 - [Austin] Who's wearing a helmet? 1110 00:54:55,492 --> 00:54:57,992 - I'm wearing a helmet, first time for everything. 1111 00:55:01,190 --> 00:55:02,973 - [Tommy] Wow you look weird in a helmet. 1112 00:55:04,460 --> 00:55:06,770 - Okay I started our timer so, 1113 00:55:06,770 --> 00:55:09,832 we need just a few tons of slack, don't worry about it. 1114 00:55:09,832 --> 00:55:12,360 (dramatic music) 1115 00:55:12,360 --> 00:55:14,640 Okay, I've actually got a piece in. 1116 00:55:14,640 --> 00:55:16,340 Normally when you're climbing 1117 00:55:16,340 --> 00:55:19,165 your partner is holding the rope and they're belaying you. 1118 00:55:19,165 --> 00:55:22,250 (Tommy whistles) 1119 00:55:22,250 --> 00:55:24,180 You stop, and you then you belay them up, you know, 1120 00:55:24,180 --> 00:55:25,868 one and then the other and then the other. 1121 00:55:25,868 --> 00:55:28,090 - Okay I'm climbing Alex. 1122 00:55:28,090 --> 00:55:31,290 - If you wanna go faster, you can simul-climb, 1123 00:55:31,290 --> 00:55:33,090 where you both climb simultaneously. 1124 00:55:34,620 --> 00:55:36,290 When you're simul-climbing 1125 00:55:36,290 --> 00:55:38,540 you definitely need a partner that you trust. 1126 00:55:41,060 --> 00:55:42,690 Your partner should have a loop of slack 1127 00:55:42,690 --> 00:55:45,130 out in front of them so that you have some freedom 1128 00:55:45,130 --> 00:55:47,800 of movement as you climb and then they also have to manage 1129 00:55:47,800 --> 00:55:50,470 all the extra slack hanging down below them. 1130 00:55:50,470 --> 00:55:52,910 As the leader, you're placing gear wherever you want 1131 00:55:52,910 --> 00:55:55,290 but if you fall off, you know that your partner 1132 00:55:55,290 --> 00:55:56,510 is gonna catch you but you don't know 1133 00:55:56,510 --> 00:55:58,140 if there's like a 10 foot loop of slack out 1134 00:55:58,140 --> 00:55:59,490 or a 20 foot loop of slack. 1135 00:56:01,380 --> 00:56:05,888 Basically it's hard to know what'll happen if you fall off. 1136 00:56:05,888 --> 00:56:08,638 (dramatic music) 1137 00:56:10,090 --> 00:56:11,240 So Tommy? 1138 00:56:11,240 --> 00:56:12,710 - Yeah? 1139 00:56:12,710 --> 00:56:14,650 - You can go a little slower Tommy 1140 00:56:14,650 --> 00:56:17,170 'cause there's only really the two anchors 1141 00:56:17,170 --> 00:56:18,250 clipped between us. 1142 00:56:18,250 --> 00:56:20,930 - Oh yeah, okay, just don't fall, got it. 1143 00:56:20,930 --> 00:56:23,420 - When you speed climb The Nose, anything goes. 1144 00:56:23,420 --> 00:56:26,970 Any combination of free climbing, aid climbing, 1145 00:56:26,970 --> 00:56:29,670 cheating, you're stepping on bolts, 1146 00:56:29,670 --> 00:56:31,653 you're pulling on gear if you need too. 1147 00:56:32,970 --> 00:56:33,943 Total free for all. 1148 00:56:35,380 --> 00:56:37,200 There's are always weird logistical snaffus 1149 00:56:37,200 --> 00:56:40,152 or like things happen and you just have to deal with them. 1150 00:56:40,152 --> 00:56:42,902 (dramatic music) 1151 00:56:47,087 --> 00:56:48,302 - [Austin] How you doin? 1152 00:56:48,302 --> 00:56:49,853 - Pretty good, yeah, 1153 00:56:50,839 --> 00:56:52,890 been crash coursed back into the world of granite. 1154 00:56:52,890 --> 00:56:54,010 - [Alex] I'm gonna start going up the bolt ladder 1155 00:56:54,010 --> 00:56:57,200 and then the aid climbing so I'll be a little slower 1156 00:56:57,200 --> 00:56:58,660 and you can kinda keep me a little tighter 1157 00:56:58,660 --> 00:56:59,953 through this part, okay? 1158 00:57:00,902 --> 00:57:02,402 - I got you tight. 1159 00:57:03,300 --> 00:57:05,520 - [Alex] Okay, I'm on the boot. 1160 00:57:05,520 --> 00:57:06,720 I'll just put you on belay 1161 00:57:06,720 --> 00:57:09,413 and you should just climb this part casual style. 1162 00:57:09,413 --> 00:57:11,313 (dramatic music) 1163 00:57:11,313 --> 00:57:13,360 - Oh my God, dude Quinn fell so far. 1164 00:57:13,360 --> 00:57:14,950 - [Alex] Dude. 1165 00:57:14,950 --> 00:57:15,783 - Jesus. 1166 00:57:15,783 --> 00:57:17,300 - [Alex] I know and as you climb this think about 1167 00:57:17,300 --> 00:57:21,744 how weirdly slippery and kinda weird it is. 1168 00:57:21,744 --> 00:57:23,770 (dramatic music) 1169 00:57:23,770 --> 00:57:25,747 - Yeah it is kinda slick rock huh. 1170 00:57:30,850 --> 00:57:32,830 - The main thing with speed climbing The Nose 1171 00:57:32,830 --> 00:57:35,530 is that you shouldn't fall off, ever, 1172 00:57:35,530 --> 00:57:40,530 but it's hard to fall off, it's 5.10 1173 00:57:40,630 --> 00:57:42,310 you never have to do any hard moves 1174 00:57:42,310 --> 00:57:43,950 because you're cheating as much as you can, 1175 00:57:43,950 --> 00:57:45,740 you're pulling on draws, you're stepping on bolts, 1176 00:57:45,740 --> 00:57:47,310 it feels pretty comfortable. 1177 00:57:47,310 --> 00:57:49,360 - I think sometimes Alex is just so, 1178 00:57:49,360 --> 00:57:53,260 he is so confident in himself that he tends to just 1179 00:57:54,530 --> 00:57:56,747 think that other people are as solid as he is 1180 00:57:56,747 --> 00:57:58,853 but it's not the case. 1181 00:58:01,100 --> 00:58:05,330 Our first run, I lead the last 500 feet. 1182 00:58:05,330 --> 00:58:07,630 I was climbing along and I got to a place where I was like 1183 00:58:07,630 --> 00:58:10,873 oh it's a little bit harder here, didn't realize it was wet. 1184 00:58:14,047 --> 00:58:14,880 Falling! 1185 00:58:17,212 --> 00:58:18,593 - [Alex] Whoa, are you okay? 1186 00:58:18,593 --> 00:58:21,020 - [Tommy] I just slipped out of a wet crack. 1187 00:58:21,020 --> 00:58:22,650 I had a piece of gear right at my feet 1188 00:58:22,650 --> 00:58:26,512 and it felt like 50 or 60 feet. 1189 00:58:26,512 --> 00:58:27,345 Falling! 1190 00:58:29,275 --> 00:58:31,660 Wow I slipped out the wet crack. 1191 00:58:31,660 --> 00:58:32,750 - [Alex] Whoa are you okay? 1192 00:58:32,750 --> 00:58:33,850 - Yeah yeah, I'm fine. 1193 00:58:34,860 --> 00:58:35,890 - [Alex] Whoa jeez. 1194 00:58:35,890 --> 00:58:36,900 - [Tommy] What's that? 1195 00:58:36,900 --> 00:58:38,160 - [Alex] I said oh jeez. 1196 00:58:38,160 --> 00:58:40,300 - I just put in a piece luckily. 1197 00:58:40,300 --> 00:58:41,840 - [Alex] Oh yeah, sweet. 1198 00:58:41,840 --> 00:58:43,070 - Yeah sorry about that. 1199 00:58:43,070 --> 00:58:44,689 - [Alex] No no, that's-- 1200 00:58:44,689 --> 00:58:46,353 Sorry I had you kinda loose. 1201 00:58:48,210 --> 00:58:50,470 - Okay Alex, can you pull it tight here? 1202 00:58:50,470 --> 00:58:52,070 - [Alex] Okay, I got you good. 1203 00:58:52,070 --> 00:58:53,130 - Thank you. 1204 00:58:53,130 --> 00:58:54,130 - [Alex] Nice Tommy. 1205 00:58:55,836 --> 00:58:57,980 - [Tommy] We climbed it in four and a half hours. 1206 00:58:57,980 --> 00:58:59,149 - [Alex] Okay. 1207 00:58:59,149 --> 00:59:00,350 - [Tommy] It was kinda mind blowing for me. 1208 00:59:00,350 --> 00:59:01,183 That was fun though man. 1209 00:59:01,183 --> 00:59:02,957 - Yeah that was really good. 1210 00:59:02,957 --> 00:59:05,850 - It's gonna be a good workout. 1211 00:59:05,850 --> 00:59:06,683 - [Alex] Yeah so are we thinking 1212 00:59:06,683 --> 00:59:07,516 we'll climb The Nose again tomorrow? 1213 00:59:07,516 --> 00:59:09,720 - I feel pretty good right now, I feel like we could. 1214 00:59:09,720 --> 00:59:11,080 - I'm down if you're down. 1215 00:59:11,080 --> 00:59:14,320 Tommy, he was surprisingly enthusiastic about it. 1216 00:59:14,320 --> 00:59:15,990 Speed climbing kinda suits his schedule right now, 1217 00:59:15,990 --> 00:59:17,992 I mean honestly he's in the middle of a book tour. 1218 00:59:17,992 --> 00:59:20,400 - I was surprised, I feel shockingly-- 1219 00:59:20,400 --> 00:59:21,233 - Good? 1220 00:59:21,233 --> 00:59:22,066 - Right, yeah. 1221 00:59:22,066 --> 00:59:22,899 - [Alex] It's definitely a good way 1222 00:59:22,899 --> 00:59:23,732 to maximize the amount of climbing you do 1223 00:59:23,732 --> 00:59:24,830 in a short amount of time. 1224 00:59:24,830 --> 00:59:26,365 - Hey Tommy, say hi. 1225 00:59:26,365 --> 00:59:27,798 - Hey, how you guys doin? 1226 00:59:27,798 --> 00:59:28,970 - Are you climbing today? 1227 00:59:28,970 --> 00:59:31,190 - Yeah we climbed El Cap already today. 1228 00:59:31,190 --> 00:59:32,380 - Oh nice. 1229 00:59:32,380 --> 00:59:33,410 - Which route did you climb? 1230 00:59:33,410 --> 00:59:34,399 - The Nose. 1231 00:59:34,399 --> 00:59:35,232 - Oh nice. 1232 00:59:36,370 --> 00:59:37,690 Awesome. 1233 00:59:37,690 --> 00:59:39,160 - Yup, just a little fitness lap. 1234 00:59:39,160 --> 00:59:40,643 - I've got Alex's already. 1235 00:59:40,643 --> 00:59:41,476 - Oh yeah? 1236 00:59:41,476 --> 00:59:43,467 - Reel Rock L.A. 1237 00:59:43,467 --> 00:59:44,300 - [Tommy] Nice. 1238 00:59:44,300 --> 00:59:45,453 - [Male Fan] I totally understand man. 1239 00:59:45,453 --> 00:59:47,700 - Are you guys getting on something this afternoon? 1240 00:59:47,700 --> 00:59:49,450 - No, I'm getting in my bed. 1241 00:59:49,450 --> 00:59:51,633 - Oh, okay, thanks. 1242 00:59:52,530 --> 00:59:54,750 - [Interviewer] Tommy took a 50 foot whipper today. 1243 00:59:54,750 --> 00:59:55,617 - Did he really? 1244 00:59:55,617 --> 00:59:56,803 Are you serious? 1245 00:59:57,768 --> 00:59:59,070 Fuck. 1246 00:59:59,070 --> 01:00:00,603 He took a 50 foot whipper? 1247 01:00:01,617 --> 01:00:02,840 Did you film it? 1248 01:00:02,840 --> 01:00:03,950 You got it on film? 1249 01:00:03,950 --> 01:00:05,880 Oh yeah. 1250 01:00:05,880 --> 01:00:06,993 Money shot. 1251 01:00:09,040 --> 01:00:12,120 Well there you go, even if you're a 5.15 climber 1252 01:00:12,120 --> 01:00:14,363 the 5.10 cracks can still get you 1253 01:00:14,363 --> 01:00:15,830 when you're speed climbing man. 1254 01:00:15,830 --> 01:00:18,390 Maybe you're flying in the night before 1255 01:00:18,390 --> 01:00:19,840 and you haven't climbed in Yosemite in a while 1256 01:00:19,840 --> 01:00:23,177 so you decide to team up with Alex and sprint up The Nose. 1257 01:00:23,177 --> 01:00:24,680 That's when you can take the whip, 1258 01:00:24,680 --> 01:00:26,690 when you're in a 5.10 wet lie back. 1259 01:00:26,690 --> 01:00:29,520 - Yeah but me and Brad, we spend a lot of time in Yosemite, 1260 01:00:29,520 --> 01:00:31,540 we don't travel anywhere else. 1261 01:00:31,540 --> 01:00:33,390 - I have yet to go on any book tours. 1262 01:00:34,240 --> 01:00:35,073 - Yeah. 1263 01:00:37,002 --> 01:00:38,750 - I'll fall anywhere doing the fastest-- 1264 01:00:38,750 --> 01:00:40,428 - You're not supposed to fall ever. 1265 01:00:40,428 --> 01:00:41,370 - Whoa, shit. 1266 01:00:41,370 --> 01:00:43,160 - Maybe they've got a new strategy. 1267 01:00:43,160 --> 01:00:43,993 - Wow. 1268 01:00:43,993 --> 01:00:44,826 - Bringing more cams. 1269 01:00:44,826 --> 01:00:45,764 - What-- 1270 01:00:45,764 --> 01:00:46,920 - [Interviewer] They have a huge rack. 1271 01:00:46,920 --> 01:00:48,065 - They have a huge rack yeah? 1272 01:00:48,065 --> 01:00:49,150 - [Interviewer] Just to start. 1273 01:00:49,150 --> 01:00:51,173 - Yeah, just to start, it'll get thinner. 1274 01:00:52,090 --> 01:00:54,300 - Alex is like no dude, I swear it's safe, 1275 01:00:54,300 --> 01:00:55,810 we can totally make it safe 1276 01:00:55,810 --> 01:00:58,039 and then each time they go up there he'll probably like, 1277 01:00:58,039 --> 01:01:01,577 just oops, we forgot the other point five (laughs). 1278 01:01:02,810 --> 01:01:04,700 - Let's organize the rack so that, 1279 01:01:04,700 --> 01:01:06,910 you may as well just organize it straight onto your harness 1280 01:01:06,910 --> 01:01:08,570 so you're ready to leave tomorrow. 1281 01:01:08,570 --> 01:01:11,620 - I've been really surprised by Alex's willingness 1282 01:01:11,620 --> 01:01:13,018 to keep it a bit safer. 1283 01:01:13,018 --> 01:01:14,678 - I feel like we should just start trimming down the rack 1284 01:01:14,678 --> 01:01:15,511 a little bit as we go. 1285 01:01:15,511 --> 01:01:16,443 - Although I'm already seeing that 1286 01:01:16,443 --> 01:01:17,740 when we're going through our rack, 1287 01:01:17,740 --> 01:01:19,130 he's like oh we can remove this piece, 1288 01:01:19,130 --> 01:01:20,555 we can remove this piece, and I'm like, 1289 01:01:20,555 --> 01:01:22,790 let's' not take that to far. 1290 01:01:22,790 --> 01:01:25,340 - Let's drop the cam hook, screw that, 1291 01:01:25,340 --> 01:01:26,860 maybe I'll leave these micronuts. 1292 01:01:26,860 --> 01:01:29,040 - So we will maybe need to put another nut 1293 01:01:29,040 --> 01:01:30,370 in the Great Roof tomorrow. 1294 01:01:30,370 --> 01:01:32,130 - If it's this nut then I'm not gonna feel 1295 01:01:32,130 --> 01:01:33,217 that much more secure anyway. 1296 01:01:33,217 --> 01:01:34,118 (Tommy laughs) 1297 01:01:34,118 --> 01:01:36,103 Do you wanna drop the green C three? 1298 01:01:40,030 --> 01:01:41,080 - Yeah, sure. 1299 01:01:41,080 --> 01:01:43,395 - Just take one thing off the harness. 1300 01:01:43,395 --> 01:01:45,060 - Sure. 1301 01:01:45,060 --> 01:01:45,970 - You're all wrapped up. 1302 01:01:45,970 --> 01:01:48,010 - Yeah that's not horrible. 1303 01:01:48,010 --> 01:01:49,510 That does feel heavy actually. 1304 01:01:50,890 --> 01:01:52,490 - That's why we'll trim it down. 1305 01:01:54,330 --> 01:01:57,373 - My wife isn't exactly stoked about this, 1306 01:01:58,310 --> 01:02:00,363 everybody thinks it's pretty dangerous. 1307 01:02:01,410 --> 01:02:05,910 With all the carnage in the past year on that route 1308 01:02:05,910 --> 01:02:07,163 makes me hesitate a bit. 1309 01:02:08,250 --> 01:02:11,360 - There have been a lot of semi-legendary falls 1310 01:02:11,360 --> 01:02:13,980 on The Nose where people fall like 100 feet down the wall. 1311 01:02:13,980 --> 01:02:16,320 I was climbing with Ueli Steck when he took a fall. 1312 01:02:16,320 --> 01:02:17,153 - Oh shit. 1313 01:02:17,153 --> 01:02:18,550 - [Alex] He's a little banged up and bleeding a little bit 1314 01:02:18,550 --> 01:02:20,020 but he was basically fine. 1315 01:02:20,020 --> 01:02:23,090 The Huber brothers, I think Thomas took some epic whipper 1316 01:02:23,090 --> 01:02:26,570 off The Nose and then just a week ago, 1317 01:02:26,570 --> 01:02:30,370 Hans Florine fell off and hit a ledge. 1318 01:02:30,370 --> 01:02:33,720 - I'm pretty sure I've broken one or both my legs. 1319 01:02:33,720 --> 01:02:35,560 - [Alex] Shattered both his heels. 1320 01:02:35,560 --> 01:02:37,143 - [Nurse] Insert ice packs. 1321 01:02:39,070 --> 01:02:41,960 - Ice and elevation baby, and rest. 1322 01:02:41,960 --> 01:02:42,793 - [Alex] Hans has climbed The Nose 1323 01:02:42,793 --> 01:02:45,540 like 109 times or something. 1324 01:02:45,540 --> 01:02:46,590 - That's where I fell, right there. 1325 01:02:46,590 --> 01:02:48,590 - [Alex] And then to just take a fall like that 1326 01:02:48,590 --> 01:02:52,060 and break both his legs is pretty grim. 1327 01:02:52,060 --> 01:02:55,100 - I think Hans' injury, the way that we climb 1328 01:02:55,100 --> 01:02:59,003 I always thought that that kinda injury was a possibility. 1329 01:02:59,880 --> 01:03:02,172 Breaking your legs you're gonna recover from that. 1330 01:03:02,172 --> 01:03:03,193 - Road to recovery baby. 1331 01:03:03,193 --> 01:03:06,120 - [Tommy] I feel like that risk is acceptable 1332 01:03:07,440 --> 01:03:11,572 but six months ago Quinn Brett, a total badass, 1333 01:03:11,572 --> 01:03:16,572 fell off of the top of Boot Flake and broke her back 1334 01:03:18,140 --> 01:03:19,893 doin exactly what we're doin. 1335 01:03:21,180 --> 01:03:26,100 - When Quinns accident happened, my emergency pager goes off 1336 01:03:26,100 --> 01:03:28,550 and there's someone who needs to be rescued 1337 01:03:28,550 --> 01:03:31,300 and it's one of our friends Quinn Brett 1338 01:03:31,300 --> 01:03:35,960 who had just taken the most enormous fall you possibly could 1339 01:03:35,960 --> 01:03:39,520 off of the Boot Flake doin the same tactic that Brad 1340 01:03:39,520 --> 01:03:44,170 uses to get up there which is place no gear. 1341 01:03:44,170 --> 01:03:46,280 She had gotten all the way to the end of the pitch, 1342 01:03:46,280 --> 01:03:50,900 somehow slipped and then took the 100 foot fall 1343 01:03:50,900 --> 01:03:55,900 and hit the Texas Flake and fell behind it. 1344 01:03:56,110 --> 01:03:57,480 I was told that she was dead 1345 01:03:57,480 --> 01:04:00,370 and that we were going to do a body recovery. 1346 01:04:00,370 --> 01:04:02,730 We went up to get her down and then it turned out 1347 01:04:02,730 --> 01:04:04,990 she was still alive and luckily they did 1348 01:04:04,990 --> 01:04:08,440 an amazing helicopter rescue, got her off really quick 1349 01:04:08,440 --> 01:04:10,310 but she had shattered her spine 1350 01:04:10,310 --> 01:04:12,997 and probably would be paralyzed for the rest of her life. 1351 01:04:12,997 --> 01:04:15,747 (dramatic music) 1352 01:04:20,580 --> 01:04:23,540 - I'd climbed the nose 12 or 13 times. 1353 01:04:23,540 --> 01:04:25,910 I did speed records on El Cap 1354 01:04:25,910 --> 01:04:28,720 and through other formations in the Valley 1355 01:04:28,720 --> 01:04:30,960 and in Zion and in Rocky. 1356 01:04:30,960 --> 01:04:33,920 For me, speed climbing, I just really like moving. 1357 01:04:33,920 --> 01:04:35,670 Covering terrain really quickly, 1358 01:04:35,670 --> 01:04:38,670 you find yourself in what they call the flow state. 1359 01:04:38,670 --> 01:04:40,600 Your moving, your moving, your brain is firing, 1360 01:04:40,600 --> 01:04:42,020 your problem solving really quickly 1361 01:04:42,020 --> 01:04:44,170 and your body is moving really efficiently. 1362 01:04:45,430 --> 01:04:47,160 Had I summited that day, 1363 01:04:47,160 --> 01:04:50,020 I would probably still be speed climbing. 1364 01:04:50,020 --> 01:04:52,760 I mean it was a pretty awesome feeling 1365 01:04:54,210 --> 01:04:56,593 until the moment I took a fall. 1366 01:04:57,890 --> 01:05:01,630 - Quinn lives in my home town of Estes, see her all the time 1367 01:05:01,630 --> 01:05:04,677 and you see how her life has changed 1368 01:05:04,677 --> 01:05:07,660 and you're just like wow that's pretty heavy. 1369 01:05:07,660 --> 01:05:11,910 So you know, I'm a father now, I can't really do things 1370 01:05:11,910 --> 01:05:16,910 that are, you know I gotta keep my seam pretty buttoned up 1371 01:05:17,130 --> 01:05:18,163 for the most part. 1372 01:05:20,177 --> 01:05:22,942 (birds chirping) 1373 01:05:22,942 --> 01:05:25,510 - [Alex] I remember my first time going up these ledges. 1374 01:05:25,510 --> 01:05:27,229 - [Austin] Have fun guys. 1375 01:05:27,229 --> 01:05:28,770 - [Tommy] See ya. 1376 01:05:28,770 --> 01:05:29,720 - [Austin] Be safe. 1377 01:05:30,706 --> 01:05:32,956 - [Alex] My first time going up these ledges it was like-- 1378 01:05:32,956 --> 01:05:36,370 (dramatic music) 1379 01:05:36,370 --> 01:05:39,040 - [Alex] So we got Jim here doing the rigging to help 1380 01:05:39,040 --> 01:05:40,550 get the cameraman in place. 1381 01:05:40,550 --> 01:05:41,860 How are we looking Jim? 1382 01:05:41,860 --> 01:05:42,840 - They're looking pretty good. 1383 01:05:42,840 --> 01:05:44,800 - [Alex] Yo Tommy, you in the Bolt Ladder? 1384 01:05:44,800 --> 01:05:46,953 - Yeah I like ran outta draws basically. 1385 01:05:47,850 --> 01:05:49,760 - It's a little strange to be up here 1386 01:05:49,760 --> 01:05:52,230 watching the guys who are trying to break our record 1387 01:05:52,230 --> 01:05:54,560 but I'm psyched to see their tactics 1388 01:05:54,560 --> 01:05:56,513 and a little bit of heckling. 1389 01:05:57,450 --> 01:06:00,090 Tommy's kinda botching it on the aid sequence. 1390 01:06:00,090 --> 01:06:01,950 - They have fucking, cruxing out, hold on. 1391 01:06:01,950 --> 01:06:02,783 - [Alex] What's that? 1392 01:06:02,783 --> 01:06:03,860 - Cruxing out, my fault. 1393 01:06:03,860 --> 01:06:05,460 - [Alex] I got you really tight. 1394 01:06:07,932 --> 01:06:09,745 - Can you take for a second? 1395 01:06:09,745 --> 01:06:11,423 - [Alex] Yeah, I gotcha. 1396 01:06:13,320 --> 01:06:14,500 - I gotta work this part out. 1397 01:06:14,500 --> 01:06:16,683 - [Alex] I placed a purple C three. 1398 01:06:17,530 --> 01:06:19,180 - Yeah I couldn't quite reach it. 1399 01:06:25,030 --> 01:06:27,700 - [Jim] Obviously Tommy free climbs like a mad man 1400 01:06:27,700 --> 01:06:29,753 but to put it all out there for something like this 1401 01:06:29,753 --> 01:06:31,730 is a little bit of a risk. 1402 01:06:31,730 --> 01:06:35,082 - [Alex] You shoulda saved yourself one sling as an aider. 1403 01:06:35,082 --> 01:06:38,093 - Yeah, I should have an aider, just remembered that. 1404 01:06:39,660 --> 01:06:41,230 - [Alex] Gumby in. 1405 01:06:41,230 --> 01:06:43,700 - The aid climbing fucks me up. 1406 01:06:43,700 --> 01:06:45,150 - [Alex] Yeah it always does. 1407 01:06:46,030 --> 01:06:47,730 - When I got up to the Boot Flake 1408 01:06:47,730 --> 01:06:49,683 I was thinking about Quinn. 1409 01:06:50,860 --> 01:06:54,583 I decided to put in a piece, even if it slowed us down, 1410 01:06:56,620 --> 01:06:57,603 at least for now. 1411 01:06:59,590 --> 01:07:01,590 - [Alex] I'm not sure if this is the best way but-- 1412 01:07:01,590 --> 01:07:03,593 - Yeah I mean, we can tag it over. 1413 01:07:04,700 --> 01:07:05,533 Oh God. 1414 01:07:05,533 --> 01:07:06,366 - [Alex] I mean the thing is really 1415 01:07:06,366 --> 01:07:08,700 Tommy should just solo the Boot but he just doesn't want to 1416 01:07:08,700 --> 01:07:10,910 which I totally understand and respect 1417 01:07:10,910 --> 01:07:13,040 but so in order for him to get the cure back 1418 01:07:13,040 --> 01:07:15,540 means he has to lower it and it's just a little junk showy. 1419 01:07:15,540 --> 01:07:17,884 - I'm good there, I don't know, where do you go to, 1420 01:07:17,884 --> 01:07:19,170 you're at the King Swing right? 1421 01:07:19,170 --> 01:07:20,880 - No no, I'm above it now. 1422 01:07:20,880 --> 01:07:21,713 - Oh you are. 1423 01:07:21,713 --> 01:07:23,494 - So yeah I'll just lower you down to me. 1424 01:07:23,494 --> 01:07:25,370 Oh no wait, you just go back up 1425 01:07:25,370 --> 01:07:28,855 and it'll lower me right? 1426 01:07:28,855 --> 01:07:29,688 - Need to get you the gear though. 1427 01:07:29,688 --> 01:07:31,523 - Yeah you can just drop it down the line. 1428 01:07:33,207 --> 01:07:34,818 Oh, rack to the nuts. 1429 01:07:34,818 --> 01:07:35,651 (Tommy laughs) 1430 01:07:35,651 --> 01:07:36,583 Just the way I like it. 1431 01:07:37,800 --> 01:07:39,910 - I was wondering if that was gonna happen. 1432 01:07:39,910 --> 01:07:40,830 - Hi guys. 1433 01:07:40,830 --> 01:07:41,663 - You. 1434 01:07:42,500 --> 01:07:43,780 - [Austin] How fast were you guys to here 1435 01:07:43,780 --> 01:07:44,970 on this go Tommy? 1436 01:07:44,970 --> 01:07:46,200 - 1, 38. 1437 01:07:46,200 --> 01:07:47,033 - [Austin] Nice. 1438 01:07:47,033 --> 01:07:49,060 Jim, how long did it take you guys to get here? 1439 01:07:49,060 --> 01:07:51,523 - We're not fully race pace yet and I think what-- 1440 01:07:51,523 --> 01:07:52,610 - [Austin] 51 eh? 1441 01:07:52,610 --> 01:07:53,710 - 51 minutes (laughs). 1442 01:07:57,380 --> 01:08:00,690 - That seemed like, not quite right you know? 1443 01:08:00,690 --> 01:08:01,990 - Yeah maybe not. 1444 01:08:01,990 --> 01:08:05,150 - We kinda need to start going faster so we understand it. 1445 01:08:05,150 --> 01:08:06,287 You know what I mean, like anybody could do 1446 01:08:06,287 --> 01:08:07,120 a four and a half hour run on The Nose 1447 01:08:07,120 --> 01:08:08,180 and be like that's cool. 1448 01:08:08,180 --> 01:08:09,013 - Anybody. 1449 01:08:09,013 --> 01:08:09,966 - Anybody. 1450 01:08:09,966 --> 01:08:11,077 - Yeah anybody can (laughs). 1451 01:08:11,077 --> 01:08:12,910 - [Austin] Anybody. 1452 01:08:12,910 --> 01:08:15,791 - Doing like a two, 50 lap on The Nose is getting into 1453 01:08:15,791 --> 01:08:18,883 some real, like that's fast. 1454 01:08:20,420 --> 01:08:23,620 - Sweet, I'm honing in on being an elite level climber. 1455 01:08:23,620 --> 01:08:24,920 - Yeah you're getting close. 1456 01:08:24,920 --> 01:08:26,167 - Yeah (laughs). 1457 01:08:26,167 --> 01:08:27,050 - I mean the Dawn Wall thing was pretty cool 1458 01:08:27,050 --> 01:08:28,350 but it took 19 days. 1459 01:08:28,350 --> 01:08:29,183 - Yeah (laughs). 1460 01:08:30,600 --> 01:08:31,830 (dramatic music) 1461 01:08:31,830 --> 01:08:33,330 - We kinda need the smaller rack, 1462 01:08:33,330 --> 01:08:35,130 we need to drop a bunch of the cams. 1463 01:08:36,760 --> 01:08:37,710 Droppin number two. 1464 01:08:38,950 --> 01:08:40,330 - Yeah. 1465 01:08:40,330 --> 01:08:42,430 Drop the jacket, drop the nuts, drop a grigri, 1466 01:08:42,430 --> 01:08:44,130 I feel like we could drop a micro. 1467 01:08:45,170 --> 01:08:46,030 - Okay. 1468 01:08:46,030 --> 01:08:47,310 - Micro off the rack. 1469 01:08:47,310 --> 01:08:49,350 Kinda wanna drop more cams. 1470 01:08:49,350 --> 01:08:50,600 Like could we drop a one? 1471 01:08:52,400 --> 01:08:54,633 - Uh. 1472 01:08:56,130 --> 01:08:57,010 - Yeah. 1473 01:08:57,010 --> 01:08:58,410 - That's not that many cams. 1474 01:09:00,320 --> 01:09:02,530 - [Alex] Five a.m and we're about to go climb The Nose, 1475 01:09:02,530 --> 01:09:03,363 third time in three days. 1476 01:09:03,363 --> 01:09:06,470 - [Austin] So is this strategy similar to yesterday? 1477 01:09:06,470 --> 01:09:08,440 - Yeah but less cams. 1478 01:09:08,440 --> 01:09:09,740 - Fewer cams. 1479 01:09:09,740 --> 01:09:10,573 - Fewer cams. 1480 01:09:11,434 --> 01:09:13,210 (speech drowned out by laughter) 1481 01:09:13,210 --> 01:09:15,160 - Make it a grammatically precise film. 1482 01:09:16,120 --> 01:09:19,350 Perfection starts with our spoken word 1483 01:09:19,350 --> 01:09:21,074 at the base of the root. 1484 01:09:21,074 --> 01:09:23,824 (dramatic music) 1485 01:09:26,040 --> 01:09:29,690 - The last couple days I've been flowing better 1486 01:09:29,690 --> 01:09:31,397 and getting a little more fit. 1487 01:09:31,397 --> 01:09:34,147 (dramatic music) 1488 01:09:40,647 --> 01:09:45,177 I'd never realized how freaking fun speed climbing is. 1489 01:09:45,177 --> 01:09:47,927 (dramatic music) 1490 01:09:49,760 --> 01:09:54,760 Climbing El Cap in a couple of hours, that's unbelievable. 1491 01:09:55,903 --> 01:09:59,434 It's just gotta be the coolest racetrack in the world. 1492 01:09:59,434 --> 01:10:01,097 - [Austin] Ya'll went 16 minutes faster. 1493 01:10:01,097 --> 01:10:01,940 - [Alex] Whoa buddy. 1494 01:10:01,940 --> 01:10:03,230 - [Austin] We do the same split at the top, 1495 01:10:03,230 --> 01:10:04,350 we'll be at three hours. 1496 01:10:04,350 --> 01:10:05,650 - [Tommy] I'll do my best. 1497 01:10:10,660 --> 01:10:12,950 - [Alex] I mean the real beauty of speed climbing, 1498 01:10:12,950 --> 01:10:14,703 it's like approaching perfection. 1499 01:10:15,760 --> 01:10:20,000 When you actually climb smoothly up the whole wall, 1500 01:10:20,000 --> 01:10:23,370 there's no wasted movement, no wasted gear, no wasted time 1501 01:10:24,510 --> 01:10:26,830 and you're in this perfectly choreographed dance 1502 01:10:26,830 --> 01:10:27,663 with your partner. 1503 01:10:27,663 --> 01:10:29,880 Tell me when it's fixed! 1504 01:10:29,880 --> 01:10:31,053 It feels amazing. 1505 01:10:33,340 --> 01:10:35,500 - [Tommy] It's crazy climbing with Alex honestly up there 1506 01:10:35,500 --> 01:10:37,410 it's a whole new level. 1507 01:10:37,410 --> 01:10:40,380 Like today he got kinda psyched and started to go fast 1508 01:10:40,380 --> 01:10:42,133 and he was just running it out. 1509 01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:44,600 - [Alex] When you're going speed style 1510 01:10:44,600 --> 01:10:45,670 there are basically two options. 1511 01:10:45,670 --> 01:10:47,780 You can simul-climb or you can short-fix. 1512 01:10:47,780 --> 01:10:49,834 The leader gets to the anchor-- 1513 01:10:49,834 --> 01:10:50,913 I'm tying it off. 1514 01:10:51,784 --> 01:10:53,783 And then pulls up all the extra rope, 1515 01:10:54,970 --> 01:10:57,424 ties the rope off to the anchor-- 1516 01:10:57,424 --> 01:10:58,257 It's fixed! 1517 01:10:58,257 --> 01:11:00,163 The second starts to ascend the rope. 1518 01:11:01,310 --> 01:11:03,720 You just have 100 feet of rope laying there in a pile 1519 01:11:03,720 --> 01:11:05,030 and you just start charging up the wall 1520 01:11:05,030 --> 01:11:06,330 with no protection really. 1521 01:11:07,260 --> 01:11:10,710 - [Tommy] Short fixing, whenever you fall as the leader 1522 01:11:10,710 --> 01:11:13,610 you're looking at falling to the end of that 100 foot rope 1523 01:11:15,490 --> 01:11:19,223 but Alex is willing to take the risk. 1524 01:11:20,190 --> 01:11:25,190 He's so different in that way, like I've fallen 50 feet plus 1525 01:11:26,180 --> 01:11:29,118 probably 10 times on El Cap or something. 1526 01:11:29,118 --> 01:11:30,633 Alex never has. 1527 01:11:31,510 --> 01:11:34,650 He doesn't wanna fall at all and he doesn't fall at all. 1528 01:11:34,650 --> 01:11:35,683 - [Austin] What was your time? 1529 01:11:35,683 --> 01:11:36,820 - Two, 57. 1530 01:11:36,820 --> 01:11:38,660 - I'm feeling pretty encouraged at two, 57 1531 01:11:38,660 --> 01:11:40,660 because Alex climbed the route with his shoes 1532 01:11:40,660 --> 01:11:44,690 looking like that and it was really wet 1533 01:11:44,690 --> 01:11:46,707 and it was our third day in a row (laughs). 1534 01:11:47,790 --> 01:11:49,513 - [Alex] It's just so ridiculous to be at the top of El Cap 1535 01:11:49,513 --> 01:11:51,066 at nine in the morning. 1536 01:11:51,066 --> 01:11:53,100 - I know, love that. 1537 01:11:53,100 --> 01:11:54,050 - Some of these today felt like, 1538 01:11:54,050 --> 01:11:55,420 less grueling then yesterday. 1539 01:11:55,420 --> 01:11:56,253 - Yeah I totally agree. 1540 01:11:56,253 --> 01:11:57,930 - Like I felt sorta tired and slow 1541 01:11:57,930 --> 01:12:00,210 but yeah man it didn't feel-- 1542 01:12:00,210 --> 01:12:02,060 I kinda think we can go sub-two dude. 1543 01:12:02,910 --> 01:12:04,071 We'll see. 1544 01:12:04,071 --> 01:12:04,904 (Tommy laughs) 1545 01:12:04,904 --> 01:12:06,520 - That would be awesome, oh my God. 1546 01:12:06,520 --> 01:12:10,280 Breaking this record, it feels possible I think 1547 01:12:10,280 --> 01:12:13,833 but Alex really wants to do it in under two hours. 1548 01:12:16,944 --> 01:12:18,620 It's gonna be hard. 1549 01:12:18,620 --> 01:12:20,840 - I've always sort of had the life goal of climbing The Nose 1550 01:12:20,840 --> 01:12:24,160 sub two hours, it seems possible 1551 01:12:24,160 --> 01:12:26,890 but it seems kinda crazy, really hard. 1552 01:12:26,890 --> 01:12:28,700 Kinda like it's a two hour marathon. 1553 01:12:28,700 --> 01:12:30,980 It's a big psychological barrier. 1554 01:12:30,980 --> 01:12:34,000 Going sub two, I think we'd be pretty proud 1555 01:12:34,000 --> 01:12:36,782 but we'll see. 1556 01:12:36,782 --> 01:12:39,580 (dramatic music) 1557 01:12:39,580 --> 01:12:40,460 - Ready? 1558 01:12:40,460 --> 01:12:41,293 Go. 1559 01:12:42,560 --> 01:12:45,550 - [Alex] Started exactly six, 20 we are off to the races. 1560 01:12:45,550 --> 01:12:48,160 - [Tommy] This time we pushed it a little bit harder. 1561 01:12:48,160 --> 01:12:49,053 - [Alex] Nice Tommy. 1562 01:12:50,757 --> 01:12:52,683 About to say, you're looking pretty good. 1563 01:12:52,683 --> 01:12:54,770 - [Austin] Yeah. 1564 01:12:54,770 --> 01:12:57,480 - By their fourth attempt Alex and Tommy were moving 1565 01:12:57,480 --> 01:13:00,460 way faster, I was across the valley, 1566 01:13:00,460 --> 01:13:02,010 filming with a telephoto lense. 1567 01:13:02,010 --> 01:13:03,010 - [Stranger] You got a friend up there? 1568 01:13:03,010 --> 01:13:05,380 - [Austin] Yeah they're trying to break the record. 1569 01:13:05,380 --> 01:13:07,670 - [Stranger] Oh sweet, oh damn, who is it? 1570 01:13:07,670 --> 01:13:09,390 - [Austin] It's Alex Honnald and Tommy Caldwell. 1571 01:13:09,390 --> 01:13:11,570 - [Stranger] Oh okay, never heard of 'em. 1572 01:13:11,570 --> 01:13:12,403 - [Austin] They're trying to make a name 1573 01:13:12,403 --> 01:13:13,909 for themselves really. 1574 01:13:13,909 --> 01:13:17,260 Tommy was cruisin, I mean I was having to like jostle 1575 01:13:17,260 --> 01:13:18,560 and move around the camera a bunch 1576 01:13:18,560 --> 01:13:20,010 just to try keep up with him. 1577 01:13:20,010 --> 01:13:23,120 Oh nice here he goes, about to charge the Stove Legs. 1578 01:13:23,120 --> 01:13:24,740 - [Tommy] I was getting a little too psyched up, 1579 01:13:24,740 --> 01:13:28,010 like I was letting it get out of my comfort zone 1580 01:13:28,010 --> 01:13:29,480 in terms of how fast I was going. 1581 01:13:29,480 --> 01:13:31,280 - [Alex] Gonna have to untie and pull the rope through 1582 01:13:31,280 --> 01:13:33,620 to undo one prusiks we do. 1583 01:13:33,620 --> 01:13:35,370 So I had just taken the grigri off. 1584 01:13:37,630 --> 01:13:40,400 - [Austin] Let's see, there he is. 1585 01:13:40,400 --> 01:13:42,300 - [Tommy] And I just like slipped out. 1586 01:13:49,090 --> 01:13:50,140 - [Austin] Holy shit. 1587 01:13:52,550 --> 01:13:55,942 Dude Tommy just took a fucking monstrous whipper, 1588 01:13:55,942 --> 01:13:57,750 like 100 feet. 1589 01:13:57,750 --> 01:13:59,280 I'm like, I can't tell, 1590 01:13:59,280 --> 01:14:02,170 he's climbing back up to Alex right now. 1591 01:14:02,170 --> 01:14:04,993 It was like right when I was shifting the frame. 1592 01:14:05,940 --> 01:14:07,620 - [Tommy] I just fell until I yanked against Alex 1593 01:14:07,620 --> 01:14:09,720 who's tied into the other end of the rope. 1594 01:14:11,580 --> 01:14:12,563 And then I just started climbing right away. 1595 01:14:12,563 --> 01:14:14,770 - [Alex] Dude you whipped 100 feet, you were literally like 1596 01:14:14,770 --> 01:14:17,310 oh I hate that I always do that and then you swung over 1597 01:14:17,310 --> 01:14:20,458 and punched back through and I was like oh my God, 1598 01:14:20,458 --> 01:14:21,458 that was outrageous. 1599 01:14:23,080 --> 01:14:25,130 - [Austin] It's crazy, even with taking a huge fall, 1600 01:14:25,130 --> 01:14:29,483 they're still gonna maybe go faster then they have before. 1601 01:14:31,090 --> 01:14:32,510 - [Alex] After Tommy took his 100 footer, 1602 01:14:32,510 --> 01:14:34,440 up higher on the route I slipped out of a crack 1603 01:14:34,440 --> 01:14:36,450 while short fixed and probably would have 1604 01:14:36,450 --> 01:14:41,450 taken a 50 or 60 footer but I caught the rope with my hands. 1605 01:14:45,580 --> 01:14:48,270 I just don't really know, I don't really know what happened 1606 01:14:48,270 --> 01:14:50,000 but I did rope burn my hand a little bit 1607 01:14:50,000 --> 01:14:51,650 and tore a chunk out of a finger. 1608 01:14:58,620 --> 01:15:02,287 (rope sliding against rock) 1609 01:15:03,631 --> 01:15:05,610 (Alex breathing heavily) 1610 01:15:05,610 --> 01:15:06,443 Yeah buddy! 1611 01:15:08,110 --> 01:15:08,943 Nice work. 1612 01:15:08,943 --> 01:15:12,360 Two, 31, that was a lot faster 1613 01:15:12,360 --> 01:15:17,360 but really like not that cool, we kinda botched. 1614 01:15:18,810 --> 01:15:20,070 - [Austin] Does it hurt? 1615 01:15:20,070 --> 01:15:23,500 - Yeah I mean it burns, I mean it's like a huge open hole. 1616 01:15:23,500 --> 01:15:25,010 On the other hand, I self arrest, 1617 01:15:25,010 --> 01:15:26,940 I basically caught the rope and caught myself 1618 01:15:26,940 --> 01:15:28,770 rather than take a hundred footer 1619 01:15:28,770 --> 01:15:30,650 which is definitely a big plus. 1620 01:15:30,650 --> 01:15:32,950 - Yeah we fell in the same spot. 1621 01:15:32,950 --> 01:15:34,193 - Was that the exact same spot? 1622 01:15:34,193 --> 01:15:35,026 - Yeah. 1623 01:15:35,026 --> 01:15:36,156 - That's crazy. - Exact same spot. 1624 01:15:36,156 --> 01:15:37,033 - That's crazy. 1625 01:15:37,033 --> 01:15:38,190 - Dude it was at least a hundred feet. 1626 01:15:38,190 --> 01:15:41,100 I was like, I'm still falling, I'm still falling, 1627 01:15:41,100 --> 01:15:42,960 I was like I hope Alex didn't just untie 1628 01:15:42,960 --> 01:15:44,600 and I just like fall to my death. 1629 01:15:44,600 --> 01:15:46,873 I had time to think about all that. 1630 01:15:48,470 --> 01:15:50,350 - Doesn't feel quite as fun today. 1631 01:15:50,350 --> 01:15:51,783 - No it was minorly traumatizing. 1632 01:15:51,783 --> 01:15:54,900 - We're broke now, we're kinda horrified. 1633 01:15:54,900 --> 01:15:56,950 Man oh man, what a morning. 1634 01:15:56,950 --> 01:15:57,783 - Yup. 1635 01:15:59,480 --> 01:16:00,410 - It's a little horrifying too 'cause the people 1636 01:16:00,410 --> 01:16:03,170 that are like watching today being like oh this is cool, 1637 01:16:03,170 --> 01:16:04,190 and we're both like-- 1638 01:16:04,190 --> 01:16:06,510 - I wonder if anybody was watching when I fell massively. 1639 01:16:06,510 --> 01:16:08,353 - I know, I hope nobody saw that shit. 1640 01:16:09,333 --> 01:16:10,166 - Yeah. 1641 01:16:10,166 --> 01:16:13,596 (children speaking over each other) 1642 01:16:13,596 --> 01:16:15,179 - From the outside. 1643 01:16:17,080 --> 01:16:22,080 - Okay, I'm gonna get you, I'm gonna get you, who's calling? 1644 01:16:23,820 --> 01:16:24,653 - [Youngest Child] Me. 1645 01:16:24,653 --> 01:16:25,486 - Who is? 1646 01:16:25,486 --> 01:16:26,380 Your calling? 1647 01:16:26,380 --> 01:16:27,213 Hello? 1648 01:16:28,690 --> 01:16:30,659 Hey how's it going? 1649 01:16:30,659 --> 01:16:32,110 - Daddy! 1650 01:16:32,110 --> 01:16:33,859 - Wanna say hi to daddy? 1651 01:16:33,859 --> 01:16:36,207 - Hi daddy, hi daddy. 1652 01:16:36,207 --> 01:16:38,980 - How fast did you climb today? 1653 01:16:38,980 --> 01:16:41,072 - [Tommy On Phone] We climbed it in two hours 1654 01:16:41,072 --> 01:16:42,795 and 31 minutes. 1655 01:16:42,795 --> 01:16:44,128 - How'd it go today? 1656 01:16:44,128 --> 01:16:45,628 - [Oldest Child] I wanna be a base jumper! 1657 01:16:45,628 --> 01:16:46,640 - [Tommy On Phone] It was definitely 1658 01:16:46,640 --> 01:16:48,083 slightly less than ideal. 1659 01:16:50,287 --> 01:16:52,813 I took a really big fall and Alex also fell 1660 01:16:53,950 --> 01:16:56,750 and grabbed the rope and tore a huge hole in his finger. 1661 01:16:58,164 --> 01:16:58,997 - Awesome. 1662 01:17:00,983 --> 01:17:03,090 Are you okay? 1663 01:17:03,090 --> 01:17:05,540 - [Tommy On Phone] Yeah, yeah, I was safe. 1664 01:17:05,540 --> 01:17:08,240 We've got it set up so we're only running it out 1665 01:17:08,240 --> 01:17:10,545 where it's clean and stuff. 1666 01:17:10,545 --> 01:17:14,430 So taking a big fall is, not that dangerous. 1667 01:17:14,430 --> 01:17:17,920 - When Tommy mentioned the speed record, 1668 01:17:17,920 --> 01:17:21,195 I wasn't really attracted to the idea. 1669 01:17:21,195 --> 01:17:23,120 (Tommys speech muffled on phone) 1670 01:17:23,120 --> 01:17:26,460 When Quinn had her accident and then Hans fell off The Nose 1671 01:17:26,460 --> 01:17:28,550 it was just an eye opener, 1672 01:17:28,550 --> 01:17:30,880 like oh man you can get really messed up 1673 01:17:31,840 --> 01:17:34,890 but Tommy loves climbing with Alex, 1674 01:17:34,890 --> 01:17:36,690 they're kind of unstoppable together 1675 01:17:36,690 --> 01:17:39,140 and they truly believe it's safe. 1676 01:17:39,140 --> 01:17:41,950 I don't know speed climbing very well 1677 01:17:41,950 --> 01:17:44,370 but my understanding is like you guys are gonna climb fast 1678 01:17:44,370 --> 01:17:46,250 and you have this dialed and you know what you're doing 1679 01:17:46,250 --> 01:17:50,395 so you just don't fall but then they both fell in one day. 1680 01:17:50,395 --> 01:17:51,682 Yeah. 1681 01:17:51,682 --> 01:17:53,600 - [Tommy On Phone] But we're not gonna do that anymore. 1682 01:17:53,600 --> 01:17:55,313 - Yeah but how do you avoid it? 1683 01:18:02,710 --> 01:18:04,970 - After taking those falls, 1684 01:18:04,970 --> 01:18:08,573 we felt like we needed to dial it back a little bit. 1685 01:18:09,690 --> 01:18:11,190 - This is where I whipped the other day 1686 01:18:11,190 --> 01:18:12,420 and Tommy whipped here. 1687 01:18:12,420 --> 01:18:14,923 - [Tommy] Even Alex seemed a bit shaken up. 1688 01:18:28,917 --> 01:18:32,834 - Gives the wrong impression of speed climbing. 1689 01:18:34,792 --> 01:18:35,625 Ah, two, 51. 1690 01:18:35,625 --> 01:18:37,280 - We didn't take any hundred foot falls today. 1691 01:18:37,280 --> 01:18:39,340 - Yeah and no injuries. 1692 01:18:39,340 --> 01:18:41,319 - Tommy and Alex, they're goin fast 1693 01:18:41,319 --> 01:18:45,240 but there's such a difference between going three hours fast 1694 01:18:45,240 --> 01:18:46,270 to breaking the record. 1695 01:18:46,270 --> 01:18:48,070 - I think it might be possible to get there 1696 01:18:48,070 --> 01:18:49,690 without redlining-- 1697 01:18:49,690 --> 01:18:52,210 - They kinda gotta get it together pretty quick here 1698 01:18:52,210 --> 01:18:55,590 I mean it's mid May and if it drags on into June, 1699 01:18:55,590 --> 01:18:57,967 it gets hot and it gets crowded. 1700 01:18:57,967 --> 01:18:59,029 - [Alex] Don't let it go. 1701 01:18:59,029 --> 01:19:02,253 - The Nose has just become so incredible popular, 1702 01:19:04,440 --> 01:19:06,720 everyone wants to do The Nose. 1703 01:19:06,720 --> 01:19:09,070 So you just get people from all over the world. 1704 01:19:09,980 --> 01:19:11,443 It's packed. 1705 01:19:13,270 --> 01:19:16,445 - Wouldn't be The Nose if we weren't jocking for position. 1706 01:19:16,445 --> 01:19:17,278 - [Austin] Get out of the way. 1707 01:19:17,278 --> 01:19:19,409 - [Brad] The wall climbers come up 1708 01:19:19,409 --> 01:19:23,034 and it gets frustrating passing five to 10 parties. 1709 01:19:23,034 --> 01:19:26,261 (speaking foreign language) 1710 01:19:26,261 --> 01:19:27,461 - Go Tommy go! 1711 01:19:27,461 --> 01:19:28,294 - Gracias. 1712 01:19:29,580 --> 01:19:32,340 - Kinda smells, reminds me of urine. 1713 01:19:32,340 --> 01:19:33,580 Welcome to The Nose huh. 1714 01:19:33,580 --> 01:19:35,220 - It really is kind of a challenge to try 1715 01:19:35,220 --> 01:19:37,340 to not get stuck behind people. 1716 01:19:37,340 --> 01:19:41,140 The strategy is, you don't ask to pass 1717 01:19:41,140 --> 01:19:46,140 but you're really friendly, you're like what's up guys? 1718 01:19:46,150 --> 01:19:48,810 Oh you're from Germany, sick, cool, yeah, 1719 01:19:48,810 --> 01:19:50,030 is it your first time out here? 1720 01:19:50,030 --> 01:19:51,450 And you're talking to them the whole time 1721 01:19:51,450 --> 01:19:53,720 and meanwhile you're just kinda slowly climbing through 1722 01:19:53,720 --> 01:19:56,510 their junction, before they know you're above 'em 1723 01:19:56,510 --> 01:19:58,670 and you're like all right guys, have fun, good luck 1724 01:19:58,670 --> 01:20:00,255 and you just keep climbing. 1725 01:20:00,255 --> 01:20:03,720 (speaking foreign language) 1726 01:20:03,720 --> 01:20:04,553 - Thanks man. 1727 01:20:04,553 --> 01:20:05,450 Where are you from? 1728 01:20:05,450 --> 01:20:06,283 - Netherlands. 1729 01:20:08,400 --> 01:20:09,233 - Have fun. 1730 01:20:09,233 --> 01:20:10,066 - You too. 1731 01:20:12,783 --> 01:20:13,700 - What was the time? 1732 01:20:13,700 --> 01:20:16,146 - Two, 25. - Two, 25. 1733 01:20:16,146 --> 01:20:16,979 - [Austin] Two, 25? 1734 01:20:16,979 --> 01:20:18,027 - Yeah. 1735 01:20:18,027 --> 01:20:18,860 - [Austin] Damn. 1736 01:20:18,860 --> 01:20:19,693 - Two, 25 is pretty good. 1737 01:20:19,693 --> 01:20:20,990 Should we go down and eat a sandwich? 1738 01:20:20,990 --> 01:20:22,184 Let's go see your kids. 1739 01:20:22,184 --> 01:20:23,017 - I know, my kids! 1740 01:20:23,017 --> 01:20:24,033 - I haven't seen your family yet. 1741 01:20:30,451 --> 01:20:34,451 (young girl speaking gibberish) 1742 01:20:44,003 --> 01:20:45,605 - Hi (laughs). 1743 01:20:45,605 --> 01:20:46,438 - Hey pits. 1744 01:20:46,438 --> 01:20:47,271 - Hey baby. 1745 01:20:47,271 --> 01:20:48,104 - Hey how's it going? 1746 01:20:48,104 --> 01:20:49,127 - Good, you remember me? 1747 01:20:49,127 --> 01:20:49,960 - I do, how you feeling? 1748 01:20:49,960 --> 01:20:50,900 - Good, did you watch us at all? 1749 01:20:50,900 --> 01:20:52,932 - [Rebecca] Think I saw you towards the top. 1750 01:20:52,932 --> 01:20:53,765 - [Brad] How's it going? 1751 01:20:53,765 --> 01:20:55,094 - [Tommy] Oh yeah, Brad. 1752 01:20:55,094 --> 01:20:56,060 - Did you guys do The Nose? 1753 01:20:56,060 --> 01:20:58,507 - Our time today was two, 25. 1754 01:20:58,507 --> 01:20:59,610 - What was your time? 1755 01:20:59,610 --> 01:21:01,534 - Five minutes away, yeah. 1756 01:21:01,534 --> 01:21:03,590 (dramatic music) 1757 01:21:03,590 --> 01:21:04,920 - [Tommy] So what are we doin? 1758 01:21:04,920 --> 01:21:06,490 Are we goin all? 1759 01:21:06,490 --> 01:21:07,360 - Let's go fast, yeah. 1760 01:21:07,360 --> 01:21:09,620 - Go fast, let's feel the burn. 1761 01:21:09,620 --> 01:21:12,990 (birds chirping) 1762 01:21:12,990 --> 01:21:16,457 - We gotta make sure they start at the exact same foot 1763 01:21:16,457 --> 01:21:18,240 of the root that we start at. 1764 01:21:18,240 --> 01:21:20,813 Making sure all the clocks work. 1765 01:21:21,880 --> 01:21:23,450 - Seems like they might break the record 1766 01:21:23,450 --> 01:21:24,930 but we'll see, it's a little hot 1767 01:21:24,930 --> 01:21:26,310 and there's some parties on the wall 1768 01:21:26,310 --> 01:21:29,863 so it might be a little more difficult today. 1769 01:21:31,310 --> 01:21:33,730 When me and Brad were going for it we were nervous, 1770 01:21:33,730 --> 01:21:36,730 like oh boy this is gonna be stressful. 1771 01:21:36,730 --> 01:21:39,450 Today, yeah these guys are the ones with all the stress. 1772 01:21:39,450 --> 01:21:40,990 - Oh we don't have any stress. 1773 01:21:40,990 --> 01:21:42,810 - We just get to chill and watch. 1774 01:21:42,810 --> 01:21:43,643 That's good. 1775 01:21:43,643 --> 01:21:45,460 - Did you guys start from this pedestal or that one? 1776 01:21:45,460 --> 01:21:46,880 - Brad would monkey up this way. 1777 01:21:46,880 --> 01:21:48,650 - It kinda makes more sense to start right here 1778 01:21:48,650 --> 01:21:49,750 and just bam, bam, bam. 1779 01:21:49,750 --> 01:21:51,850 - I mean you're the professional (laughs). 1780 01:21:59,390 --> 01:22:00,223 - Okay, ready? 1781 01:22:01,720 --> 01:22:02,581 - Go. 1782 01:22:02,581 --> 01:22:05,331 (dramatic music) 1783 01:22:06,290 --> 01:22:07,180 - [Alex] Remember the Hans saying, 1784 01:22:07,180 --> 01:22:11,369 start out slow, go, go, go, start out fast, just won't last. 1785 01:22:11,369 --> 01:22:13,061 - And there they go, history begins. 1786 01:22:13,061 --> 01:22:15,811 (dramatic music) 1787 01:22:16,871 --> 01:22:18,040 (speech muffled by wind) 1788 01:22:18,040 --> 01:22:19,116 - [Jim] Taking the swing. 1789 01:22:19,116 --> 01:22:20,089 - [Brad] Oh yeah. 1790 01:22:20,089 --> 01:22:22,762 (Jim cheering) 1791 01:22:22,762 --> 01:22:25,512 (dramatic music) 1792 01:22:29,488 --> 01:22:34,488 ♪ Clock started, nothing left but tie me down ♪ 1793 01:22:37,451 --> 01:22:40,201 (dramatic music) 1794 01:22:52,328 --> 01:22:54,678 - All right Tommy, tell me when you get to that piece 1795 01:22:54,678 --> 01:22:56,814 and I'll swing over. 1796 01:22:56,814 --> 01:22:57,731 - Okay man. 1797 01:22:59,491 --> 01:23:03,824 ♪ We can call the whole thing, down ♪ 1798 01:23:05,215 --> 01:23:06,251 - [Alex] Nice work Tommy. 1799 01:23:06,251 --> 01:23:07,918 - [Tommy] Thank you. 1800 01:23:09,360 --> 01:23:11,240 - Tommy and Alex left all their gear at the base 1801 01:23:11,240 --> 01:23:13,067 so we're bootying it (laughs). 1802 01:23:14,675 --> 01:23:16,180 They don't need it, they get free stuff 1803 01:23:16,180 --> 01:23:19,067 but me, I work and steal for my living (laughs). 1804 01:23:21,610 --> 01:23:22,450 - Let's see what their time is. 1805 01:23:22,450 --> 01:23:24,588 - They did really fast on the sickle bit. 1806 01:23:24,588 --> 01:23:27,380 - They're at 30, almost 38 minutes. 1807 01:23:27,380 --> 01:23:29,860 - [Austin] That morning there was an audience. 1808 01:23:29,860 --> 01:23:32,200 Becca was there with Alex's girlfriend Sanni. 1809 01:23:32,200 --> 01:23:33,033 - Go daddy! 1810 01:23:35,630 --> 01:23:36,463 - I think he heard you. 1811 01:23:36,463 --> 01:23:38,420 - They got Hans sitting out there, 1812 01:23:38,420 --> 01:23:40,301 broken ankles and all. 1813 01:23:40,301 --> 01:23:42,228 (Hans cheering) 1814 01:23:42,228 --> 01:23:43,061 (Brad booing) 1815 01:23:43,061 --> 01:23:44,453 And Brad and Jim, 1816 01:23:46,010 --> 01:23:47,240 secretly hoping that they'd watch them 1817 01:23:47,240 --> 01:23:49,018 make a bunch of mistakes. 1818 01:23:49,018 --> 01:23:51,340 Is there a part of you guys, like I hope they stubbied? 1819 01:23:51,340 --> 01:23:52,650 - No. 1820 01:23:52,650 --> 01:23:53,483 - Yeah. 1821 01:23:53,483 --> 01:23:54,479 - I don't think so. 1822 01:23:54,479 --> 01:23:55,312 (both laughing) 1823 01:23:55,312 --> 01:23:56,623 - Do you see daddy? 1824 01:23:58,130 --> 01:24:00,329 Do you see daddy in there? 1825 01:24:00,329 --> 01:24:02,229 - Fit in the boot. 1826 01:24:02,229 --> 01:24:03,900 - [Rebecca And Sonni] He's on the boot (laughs) 1827 01:24:03,900 --> 01:24:06,070 - Do you know where the boot is kids? 1828 01:24:06,070 --> 01:24:08,483 You can see a perfect little boot up there. 1829 01:24:11,610 --> 01:24:14,520 - [Tommy] The Boot Flake is always an exciting moment. 1830 01:24:14,520 --> 01:24:16,476 - [Alex] Yeah this is my favorite pitch. 1831 01:24:16,476 --> 01:24:17,309 - [Tommy] Yeah. 1832 01:24:17,309 --> 01:24:18,142 - [Alex] Yeah. 1833 01:24:18,142 --> 01:24:19,890 - [Tommy] It's like my least favorite pitch. 1834 01:24:19,890 --> 01:24:22,763 Just get grip, thinking about quitting when I'm up there. 1835 01:24:22,763 --> 01:24:25,930 (slow dramatic music) 1836 01:24:37,430 --> 01:24:39,010 - [Jim] Tommy places a cam on the boot. 1837 01:24:39,010 --> 01:24:40,703 - [Brad] Oh yup, there he goes. 1838 01:24:40,703 --> 01:24:42,286 - What is he doing? 1839 01:24:43,980 --> 01:24:45,600 I bet that makes Becca happy. 1840 01:24:45,600 --> 01:24:46,433 - Yup. 1841 01:24:48,480 --> 01:24:49,700 - [Rebecca] Give it to me kiddo, 1842 01:24:49,700 --> 01:24:51,150 daddy's standing on the boot. 1843 01:24:52,864 --> 01:24:54,910 (spectators cheering) 1844 01:24:54,910 --> 01:24:56,270 - [Jim] He lowers down to grab it 1845 01:24:56,270 --> 01:24:57,713 before Alex does the swing. 1846 01:24:59,360 --> 01:25:02,550 That's definitely a time waster right there. 1847 01:25:02,550 --> 01:25:03,750 - [Brad] Yeah. 1848 01:25:03,750 --> 01:25:05,360 - Okay here we go. 1849 01:25:05,360 --> 01:25:06,510 - [Tommy] We've been checking the time 1850 01:25:06,510 --> 01:25:08,380 after Alex does the King Swing, 1851 01:25:08,380 --> 01:25:10,070 it was an hour and one minute. 1852 01:25:10,070 --> 01:25:12,520 - [Alex] We were five minutes faster than before. 1853 01:25:12,520 --> 01:25:14,150 I just knew it was game on, it was time to go 1854 01:25:14,150 --> 01:25:15,100 as fast as I could. 1855 01:25:16,260 --> 01:25:19,140 - Oh man they got someone starting up the Great Roof 1856 01:25:19,140 --> 01:25:21,283 in a minute, might get hosed. 1857 01:25:22,720 --> 01:25:24,410 - When I was getting up to the Great Roof, 1858 01:25:24,410 --> 01:25:28,010 these two Bask women who we passed twice before in the week 1859 01:25:28,010 --> 01:25:30,360 had just finished aid climbing the pitch 1860 01:25:30,360 --> 01:25:32,170 and so there was already rope hanging down it 1861 01:25:32,170 --> 01:25:33,220 and gear all over it. 1862 01:25:34,130 --> 01:25:37,797 (speaking foreign language) 1863 01:25:41,300 --> 01:25:43,180 It's mildly annoying when you can't put your fingers 1864 01:25:43,180 --> 01:25:44,823 into the places you want but it means that 1865 01:25:44,823 --> 01:25:48,117 I can just pull on their quick draws and just climb through. 1866 01:25:48,117 --> 01:25:50,534 - [Foreign Woman] Go Alex go! 1867 01:25:55,178 --> 01:25:58,845 (speaking foreign language) 1868 01:26:01,542 --> 01:26:02,375 - [Tommy] What's that? 1869 01:26:02,375 --> 01:26:03,208 - Watch me good here. 1870 01:26:08,743 --> 01:26:12,410 (speaking foreign language) 1871 01:26:15,680 --> 01:26:17,100 Got the lines fixed Tommy! 1872 01:26:17,100 --> 01:26:18,913 - [Tommy] Alex gets to the anchor, short fixes there 1873 01:26:18,913 --> 01:26:21,243 and then I just jug as fast as I can. 1874 01:26:22,794 --> 01:26:26,461 (speaking foreign language) 1875 01:26:28,200 --> 01:26:31,110 - When I got to the Great Roof, we're right on pace 1876 01:26:31,110 --> 01:26:34,250 for the record but then I just start getting tangled 1877 01:26:34,250 --> 01:26:36,373 in the equipment from the Bask ladies. 1878 01:26:37,471 --> 01:26:38,304 - [Foreign Woman] Go Tommy go! 1879 01:26:38,304 --> 01:26:40,510 - I have to switch my whole system. 1880 01:26:40,510 --> 01:26:42,220 Putting jumars on, taking 'em off, 1881 01:26:42,220 --> 01:26:43,880 figuring out where to put 'em, 1882 01:26:43,880 --> 01:26:46,057 there's this other rope, I'm worried it's gonna get stuck, 1883 01:26:46,057 --> 01:26:47,523 just clustering. 1884 01:27:04,010 --> 01:27:05,390 Oh fuck. 1885 01:27:05,390 --> 01:27:07,800 I lowered out and then I went to pull the loop 1886 01:27:07,800 --> 01:27:09,560 but it was just caught. 1887 01:27:09,560 --> 01:27:12,570 The only quick solution I could think of was to untie 1888 01:27:12,570 --> 01:27:15,630 and pull the rope as fast as I could and then tie back in. 1889 01:27:15,630 --> 01:27:18,990 Alex had gotten stopped because he didn't have any rope left 1890 01:27:18,990 --> 01:27:20,430 he's just kinda like waiting for me 1891 01:27:20,430 --> 01:27:22,754 right in the middle of the cruxxed out pitch. 1892 01:27:22,754 --> 01:27:23,910 - [Tommy] Something got twisted in that anchor 1893 01:27:23,910 --> 01:27:25,384 I have to untie. 1894 01:27:25,384 --> 01:27:26,217 - [Alex] Sorry about that. 1895 01:27:26,217 --> 01:27:27,410 No, it's not your fault. 1896 01:27:27,410 --> 01:27:28,606 - What's going on? 1897 01:27:28,606 --> 01:27:29,690 - You know where they're at Hans? 1898 01:27:29,690 --> 01:27:31,360 - Alex is right where I fell. 1899 01:27:34,330 --> 01:27:39,105 - So I pull my end then I just start trying to tie back in. 1900 01:27:39,105 --> 01:27:41,855 (dramatic music) 1901 01:27:43,320 --> 01:27:44,630 - [Alex] Every time you speed climb The Nose 1902 01:27:44,630 --> 01:27:45,670 you run into situations 1903 01:27:45,670 --> 01:27:47,270 that you haven't necessarily dealt with before 1904 01:27:47,270 --> 01:27:48,830 there's always some kind of weird thing 1905 01:27:48,830 --> 01:27:51,320 and the real test is how quickly you can deal with it 1906 01:27:51,320 --> 01:27:54,200 and manage and then just keep moving forward. 1907 01:27:54,200 --> 01:27:55,560 It was definitely the right call for Tommy 1908 01:27:55,560 --> 01:27:57,310 just to look at, be like oh here's what I need to do, 1909 01:27:57,310 --> 01:28:00,106 untie, pull, pull, pull, retie, here we go, keep going. 1910 01:28:00,106 --> 01:28:02,316 It's like, good improvising by Tommy. 1911 01:28:02,316 --> 01:28:05,066 (dramatic music) 1912 01:28:08,240 --> 01:28:09,493 - Oh shit. 1913 01:28:09,493 --> 01:28:12,243 (dramatic music) 1914 01:28:15,010 --> 01:28:16,431 - [Alex] Nice work, way to deal. 1915 01:28:16,431 --> 01:28:17,264 - Okay, adios. 1916 01:28:17,264 --> 01:28:18,431 - Okay, adios. 1917 01:28:19,886 --> 01:28:21,510 - [Tommy] That probably wasted two minutes. 1918 01:28:21,510 --> 01:28:22,810 - [Austin] Look at him go. 1919 01:28:24,440 --> 01:28:27,310 - [Tommy] But you know Alex just started to boogey up 1920 01:28:27,310 --> 01:28:30,823 the steep cracks at the top like nobody else ever had. 1921 01:28:32,050 --> 01:28:34,860 Climbing like a beast in no fall terrain 1922 01:28:35,700 --> 01:28:37,403 and we made up tons of time there. 1923 01:28:38,280 --> 01:28:40,560 - [Alex] On each of the last six pitches 1924 01:28:40,560 --> 01:28:43,000 I have positions where I could probably take 1925 01:28:43,000 --> 01:28:44,653 a hundred to a 200 foot fall. 1926 01:28:47,440 --> 01:28:49,160 So I didn't look at any splits or anything 1927 01:28:49,160 --> 01:28:50,670 you don't really wanna think about pace to much 1928 01:28:50,670 --> 01:28:53,300 you wanna just go as hard as you can and just execute. 1929 01:28:53,300 --> 01:28:54,620 Just focus on what we're doing 1930 01:28:54,620 --> 01:28:56,900 and then just find out on top. 1931 01:28:56,900 --> 01:28:58,707 - [Brad] Shit dude he is just fucking-- 1932 01:28:58,707 --> 01:28:59,880 - Wow it's amazing. 1933 01:28:59,880 --> 01:29:01,240 - Tommy's at the Wild Stance, 1934 01:29:01,240 --> 01:29:04,360 Alex is on the final Bolt Ladder. 1935 01:29:04,360 --> 01:29:06,610 - [Alex] The last pitch is like the full glorious sprint 1936 01:29:06,610 --> 01:29:08,120 to the finish line. 1937 01:29:08,120 --> 01:29:10,533 It's completely exposed, totally outrageous. 1938 01:29:11,440 --> 01:29:14,560 You're hand over handing bolts, you're like (grunts), 1939 01:29:14,560 --> 01:29:17,160 just leave it all on the table, punch it to the top. 1940 01:29:19,220 --> 01:29:20,735 It feels so heroic. 1941 01:29:20,735 --> 01:29:24,040 (spectators cheering) 1942 01:29:24,040 --> 01:29:26,540 - Can't tell me, I'm running to the top, get some! 1943 01:29:27,924 --> 01:29:29,350 (spectators cheering) 1944 01:29:29,350 --> 01:29:31,320 - I wasn't checking my watch at all 1945 01:29:31,320 --> 01:29:34,207 I was just trying to go as fast as I physically can. 1946 01:29:35,220 --> 01:29:36,980 - [Alex] I'm just running uphill with a bunch of weight 1947 01:29:36,980 --> 01:29:39,160 hanging off me and then the goal is just to pull the rope 1948 01:29:39,160 --> 01:29:41,137 as tight as you can and then start pulling on Tommy. 1949 01:29:41,137 --> 01:29:41,970 Yo Tommy! 1950 01:29:43,500 --> 01:29:46,410 (Alex breathing heavily) 1951 01:29:46,410 --> 01:29:47,243 Come on Tommy! 1952 01:29:48,200 --> 01:29:50,994 - I see him, he's pulling, hand over handing. 1953 01:29:50,994 --> 01:29:51,975 - [Rebecca] Let me see. 1954 01:29:51,975 --> 01:29:52,808 - [Sanni] Come on Tommy! 1955 01:29:52,808 --> 01:29:54,500 - The tree is in sight, I'm just, 1956 01:29:54,500 --> 01:29:57,140 I'm running up the final slabs as fast as I can. 1957 01:29:57,140 --> 01:29:58,064 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1958 01:29:58,064 --> 01:30:00,103 - All of a sudden I just get jerked to a halt. 1959 01:30:05,710 --> 01:30:09,010 I just started panicking, I was like, oh no! 1960 01:30:09,010 --> 01:30:10,160 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1961 01:30:12,960 --> 01:30:15,780 - And again I had to friggin untie the rope 1962 01:30:15,780 --> 01:30:18,470 and it probably took me like two or three times as long 1963 01:30:18,470 --> 01:30:20,050 to untie as it should have. 1964 01:30:23,210 --> 01:30:24,283 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1965 01:30:25,503 --> 01:30:28,773 - Finally got it untied and ran to the tree. 1966 01:30:34,400 --> 01:30:35,400 - [Alex] Yeah buddy! 1967 01:30:38,990 --> 01:30:40,620 - [Austin] When Tommy ran up to the tree without the rope 1968 01:30:40,620 --> 01:30:42,093 I was like that's unorthodox. 1969 01:30:44,084 --> 01:30:46,010 - [Alex] Did you just untie at the end? 1970 01:30:46,010 --> 01:30:47,897 - Yeah my rope got caught. 1971 01:30:47,897 --> 01:30:49,574 - [Alex] Well, good call 1972 01:30:49,574 --> 01:30:51,770 - I didn't even really realize what had happened. 1973 01:30:51,770 --> 01:30:53,853 Alex just kind of casually walks back. 1974 01:30:54,780 --> 01:30:56,370 Two, 10, 14. 1975 01:30:56,370 --> 01:30:57,203 - Two, 10, 14. 1976 01:30:57,203 --> 01:31:00,184 (spectators cheering) 1977 01:31:00,184 --> 01:31:01,101 - Hi daddy! 1978 01:31:04,100 --> 01:31:05,010 - Say good job daddy! 1979 01:31:05,010 --> 01:31:06,980 He's standing on top. 1980 01:31:06,980 --> 01:31:08,573 - Well man, nice dude. - boom. 1981 01:31:09,697 --> 01:31:10,590 That felt good. 1982 01:31:10,590 --> 01:31:11,423 - Yeah, yeah. 1983 01:31:11,423 --> 01:31:12,990 - It still wasn't quite perfect though. 1984 01:31:12,990 --> 01:31:14,307 - Yeah, I was like- 1985 01:31:14,307 --> 01:31:16,773 - Got stuck several times and that was kinda like uh. 1986 01:31:16,773 --> 01:31:18,959 - That was good though, we got the record. 1987 01:31:18,959 --> 01:31:20,068 - You got it back! 1988 01:31:20,068 --> 01:31:21,310 - Nice work. 1989 01:31:21,310 --> 01:31:22,770 That was sick. 1990 01:31:22,770 --> 01:31:25,969 - Yeah, we got it by, kind of a lot. 1991 01:31:25,969 --> 01:31:26,802 - Almost 10 minutes. 1992 01:31:26,802 --> 01:31:27,715 - Yeah. - Yeah. 1993 01:31:27,715 --> 01:31:28,755 Yeah, legit. 1994 01:31:28,755 --> 01:31:30,505 Now we just gotta shave 10 more. 1995 01:31:30,505 --> 01:31:31,605 - Oh Jesus. 1996 01:31:31,605 --> 01:31:33,242 - That definitely hurt a lot more. 1997 01:31:33,242 --> 01:31:35,290 (gentle music) 1998 01:31:35,290 --> 01:31:38,016 Breaking somebodies record is fun, 1999 01:31:38,016 --> 01:31:40,810 it's nice to one up your friends or whatever. 2000 01:31:40,810 --> 01:31:42,140 Brad's calling. 2001 01:31:42,140 --> 01:31:42,973 - [Tommy] Oh nice. 2002 01:31:42,973 --> 01:31:44,350 - Brad Gobright. 2003 01:31:44,350 --> 01:31:46,980 - Congratulations, you did it! 2004 01:31:46,980 --> 01:31:49,100 - Yo, we took it, we took it, 2005 01:31:49,100 --> 01:31:53,290 but not quite by enough for it to be out of the question 2006 01:31:53,290 --> 01:31:54,200 for you guys though you know? 2007 01:31:54,200 --> 01:31:55,500 We might have to go again. 2008 01:31:56,990 --> 01:31:59,150 But the idea is that you're seeking out that feeling 2009 01:31:59,150 --> 01:32:00,620 of perfection where they're like, 2010 01:32:00,620 --> 01:32:03,650 this climb went as well as any climb can go 2011 01:32:03,650 --> 01:32:05,690 and so when we got to the top in two, 10, 2012 01:32:05,690 --> 01:32:07,350 we're like oh that felt really good 2013 01:32:07,350 --> 01:32:11,490 and we did it pretty quickly but it wasn't quite perfect. 2014 01:32:11,490 --> 01:32:13,450 - Yeah I think both of us were immediately like, 2015 01:32:13,450 --> 01:32:17,390 oh we can do better than that, we're not done with this. 2016 01:32:17,390 --> 01:32:19,500 Does seem possible to go faster. 2017 01:32:19,500 --> 01:32:21,550 - Yeah I mean we could for sure shave 10 minutes off that. 2018 01:32:21,550 --> 01:32:23,451 - I feel like we're just getting close to our potential 2019 01:32:23,451 --> 01:32:27,693 at this point so that two hour mark is very enticing. 2020 01:32:30,050 --> 01:32:33,050 We just decided that we should keep going, 2021 01:32:33,050 --> 01:32:34,793 try and do it in under two hours. 2022 01:32:36,450 --> 01:32:38,730 - You know I think any reasonable person 2023 01:32:38,730 --> 01:32:42,390 would break The Nose speed record and hang up their rack 2024 01:32:42,390 --> 01:32:46,000 and they'd be done but Tommy and Alex 2025 01:32:46,000 --> 01:32:48,230 they wanted to break two hours. 2026 01:32:48,230 --> 01:32:50,560 It's kind of this mythical time 2027 01:32:50,560 --> 01:32:51,770 that people have wondered about like, 2028 01:32:51,770 --> 01:32:53,570 oh is it even possible? 2029 01:32:53,570 --> 01:32:55,360 - My thought is that if we break two hours 2030 01:32:55,360 --> 01:32:57,830 that'll be getting pretty close to this is perfect, 2031 01:32:57,830 --> 01:32:59,080 like this is the best that we can do. 2032 01:32:59,080 --> 01:33:01,660 - It's gonna be real hard, like this is gonna hurt 2033 01:33:01,660 --> 01:33:03,160 but we're gonna try again tomorrow and who knows? 2034 01:33:03,160 --> 01:33:06,693 Maybe we'll just cut off another 10 minutes. 2035 01:33:07,764 --> 01:33:10,575 - [Austin] Yeah fellas! 2036 01:33:10,575 --> 01:33:11,408 - Yeah! 2037 01:33:12,990 --> 01:33:14,770 Hey, what's happening? 2038 01:33:14,770 --> 01:33:16,523 How's it goin buddy? 2039 01:33:17,489 --> 01:33:18,322 - The baby's sleeping. 2040 01:33:18,322 --> 01:33:19,213 - Oh sorry. 2041 01:33:19,213 --> 01:33:22,263 - But you did good, nice job. 2042 01:33:22,263 --> 01:33:23,589 - Yo Hans, what happened? 2043 01:33:23,589 --> 01:33:25,397 (everyone laughing) 2044 01:33:25,397 --> 01:33:28,330 - Don't insult the history book here. 2045 01:33:28,330 --> 01:33:31,080 Seven hour, six hour, and five hour mark 2046 01:33:31,080 --> 01:33:34,920 all broken by Peter Croft and Dave Schultz. 2047 01:33:34,920 --> 01:33:38,940 Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill broke the four hour mark, 2048 01:33:38,940 --> 01:33:41,780 Yuji and Hans broke the three hour mark, 2049 01:33:41,780 --> 01:33:46,202 Alex hasn't broken an hour marks, oh that's gotta hurt. 2050 01:33:46,202 --> 01:33:48,785 (all laughing) 2051 01:33:49,687 --> 01:33:51,293 - That's fair, yeah. 2052 01:33:52,360 --> 01:33:53,714 - [Tommy] So yeah, go again tomorrow? 2053 01:33:53,714 --> 01:33:54,881 - [Alex] Yeah. 2054 01:33:58,200 --> 01:34:00,840 - Two experienced climbers died when they plummeted off 2055 01:34:00,840 --> 01:34:02,777 El Capitan in Yosemite this morning. 2056 01:34:02,777 --> 01:34:04,840 - [Female Reporter] The two climbers were attempting El Cap 2057 01:34:04,840 --> 01:34:06,570 when something went horribly wrong. 2058 01:34:06,570 --> 01:34:09,240 The climbers, identified as 46 year old Jason Wells 2059 01:34:09,240 --> 01:34:13,510 of Boulder, Colorado and 42 year, a Tim Klein from Palmdale. 2060 01:34:13,510 --> 01:34:15,450 Rangers still figuring out just how 2061 01:34:15,450 --> 01:34:17,323 these climbers fell Saturday. 2062 01:34:20,210 --> 01:34:21,510 - [Alex] The next morning we were getting ready 2063 01:34:21,510 --> 01:34:23,200 for another attempt on The Nose 2064 01:34:23,200 --> 01:34:26,470 and we found out there was an accident on El Cap. 2065 01:34:26,470 --> 01:34:29,210 Two super experienced climbers, Jason and Tim, 2066 01:34:29,210 --> 01:34:32,130 they were using speed climbing tactics on another route 2067 01:34:32,130 --> 01:34:35,130 call the Salathe which is just to the left of The Nose. 2068 01:34:35,130 --> 01:34:37,040 It's unclear exactly what happened 2069 01:34:37,040 --> 01:34:39,113 but somehow fell off the wall. 2070 01:34:40,180 --> 01:34:42,053 It was like, woof, pretty heavy. 2071 01:34:42,972 --> 01:34:44,500 An accident like this, is you never know 2072 01:34:44,500 --> 01:34:46,980 if maybe they did have gear and maybe it pulled 2073 01:34:46,980 --> 01:34:49,510 or maybe a rock rolled, cut the rope, 2074 01:34:49,510 --> 01:34:50,740 you know what I mean, there's so many variables. 2075 01:34:50,740 --> 01:34:52,770 I mean it definitely makes you pause 2076 01:34:52,770 --> 01:34:54,710 and think about your choices a little bit. 2077 01:34:54,710 --> 01:34:57,349 - Are you guys thinking you're gonna climb tomorrow? 2078 01:34:57,349 --> 01:34:58,450 - I don't know. 2079 01:34:58,450 --> 01:35:00,570 But the reality is, if you're speed climbing 2080 01:35:00,570 --> 01:35:02,520 on The Nose you've already thought about 2081 01:35:02,520 --> 01:35:04,170 how an accident could occur, 2082 01:35:04,170 --> 01:35:06,370 what it would be like to fall off. 2083 01:35:06,370 --> 01:35:08,450 You're already doing your absolute best to minimize 2084 01:35:08,450 --> 01:35:10,390 the chance of that happening. 2085 01:35:10,390 --> 01:35:12,530 - Like there's always an anchor, we're always at least-- 2086 01:35:12,530 --> 01:35:14,580 - [Alex] I think that for Tommy the bigger challenge 2087 01:35:14,580 --> 01:35:16,490 is his obligation to his family 2088 01:35:16,490 --> 01:35:18,850 and making sure the Becca feels comfortable 2089 01:35:18,850 --> 01:35:19,840 with his decision making. 2090 01:35:19,840 --> 01:35:20,687 - It's just the kind of thing where it's like 2091 01:35:20,687 --> 01:35:22,730 I want a guarantee but there's no guarantee 2092 01:35:22,730 --> 01:35:27,730 so I just have to trust you guys but that's scary. 2093 01:35:28,640 --> 01:35:29,650 - I was feeling a little bit wigged 2094 01:35:29,650 --> 01:35:32,080 about just raging tomorrow. 2095 01:35:32,080 --> 01:35:33,490 - Yeah making sure there's no gear-- 2096 01:35:33,490 --> 01:35:36,100 - Maybe take a second look at those fixings. 2097 01:35:36,100 --> 01:35:39,070 So we decided to go and take it a little more chill. 2098 01:35:39,070 --> 01:35:41,670 Mostly to just test out the psyche. 2099 01:35:41,670 --> 01:35:43,605 To go sub two I feel like you just gotta be like, 2100 01:35:43,605 --> 01:35:47,250 (grunts) so stoked and this definitely took the wind 2101 01:35:47,250 --> 01:35:48,450 out of the sails for me. 2102 01:35:51,030 --> 01:35:56,030 We went back up, taking the time to reanalyze everything. 2103 01:35:57,630 --> 01:36:00,323 It felt really solid to me, it felt safe. 2104 01:36:02,500 --> 01:36:04,550 It's just a question of how to go faster. 2105 01:36:07,780 --> 01:36:11,673 The one place I know I can save some time is the Boot Flake. 2106 01:36:15,240 --> 01:36:18,055 We'll go faster if I just skip that piece. 2107 01:36:18,055 --> 01:36:20,805 (birds chirping) 2108 01:36:23,230 --> 01:36:27,404 But that's a line I'm just not willing to cross. 2109 01:36:27,404 --> 01:36:30,571 (slow dramatic music) 2110 01:36:36,630 --> 01:36:38,750 Yeah I thought that was fun today, I didn't feel wigged, 2111 01:36:38,750 --> 01:36:39,583 it felt super fun. 2112 01:36:39,583 --> 01:36:40,740 - That was so fun. 2113 01:36:40,740 --> 01:36:43,129 I'm glad that we retouched all the safety stuff 2114 01:36:43,129 --> 01:36:44,450 I think it's totally fine. 2115 01:36:44,450 --> 01:36:45,283 - Yeah. 2116 01:36:46,240 --> 01:36:49,650 - So I would have to shave another five off the bottom? 2117 01:36:49,650 --> 01:36:50,483 - [Alex] Yeah. 2118 01:36:51,860 --> 01:36:56,170 - The last piece of the puzzle was how to go faster 2119 01:36:56,170 --> 01:36:57,483 on that bottom section. 2120 01:36:59,360 --> 01:37:03,227 I set up a self belay, rehearsed every move 2121 01:37:03,227 --> 01:37:06,163 so that I could it totally flawlessly. 2122 01:37:11,470 --> 01:37:13,593 If I can shave that five minutes, 2123 01:37:14,770 --> 01:37:16,770 I'd be holding up my end of the bargain. 2124 01:37:19,849 --> 01:37:21,002 - Good morning. 2125 01:37:21,002 --> 01:37:22,075 - [Other Climbers] Good morning. 2126 01:37:22,075 --> 01:37:23,165 - [Rock Climber] Congratulations. 2127 01:37:23,165 --> 01:37:24,333 - Oh thanks. 2128 01:37:24,333 --> 01:37:25,453 Goin again today. 2129 01:37:28,240 --> 01:37:30,486 - Let's say today is gonna be a little less casual. 2130 01:37:30,486 --> 01:37:33,236 (birds chirping) 2131 01:37:41,190 --> 01:37:42,490 - [Alex] Nice and relaxed. 2132 01:37:43,680 --> 01:37:44,513 - [Tommy] Okay ready. 2133 01:37:44,513 --> 01:37:45,531 - [Alex] Yup. 2134 01:37:45,531 --> 01:37:46,364 (watch beeps) 2135 01:37:46,364 --> 01:37:49,114 (dramatic music) 2136 01:37:49,950 --> 01:37:51,072 - [Alex] Whoa Tommy. 2137 01:37:51,072 --> 01:37:54,120 (dramatic music) 2138 01:37:54,120 --> 01:37:55,963 Tommy was charging to Sickle. 2139 01:37:57,560 --> 01:37:58,910 I mean most people spend the whole day 2140 01:37:58,910 --> 01:37:59,810 getting to Sickle. 2141 01:38:01,020 --> 01:38:02,480 Wow, 11, 06. 2142 01:38:02,480 --> 01:38:03,750 - [Tommy] Holy shit. 2143 01:38:03,750 --> 01:38:05,210 - [Alex] And there goes Tommy blitzing to Sickle 2144 01:38:05,210 --> 01:38:07,893 in 11 minutes, it's completely outrageous. 2145 01:38:09,140 --> 01:38:10,502 Get it, get it, get it. 2146 01:38:10,502 --> 01:38:13,252 (dramatic music) 2147 01:38:28,803 --> 01:38:32,303 (music drowns out speech) 2148 01:38:33,460 --> 01:38:34,505 - [Alex] Where you guys from? 2149 01:38:34,505 --> 01:38:38,005 (music drowns out speech) 2150 01:38:44,687 --> 01:38:45,810 - [Tommy] I'm on the Bolt! 2151 01:38:45,810 --> 01:38:47,987 - [Alex] Okay I have you on set. 2152 01:38:47,987 --> 01:38:49,603 You're on normal belay. 2153 01:38:51,007 --> 01:38:53,040 (music drowns out speech) 2154 01:38:53,040 --> 01:38:55,010 - [Alex] Man that was really fast, 56. 2155 01:38:55,010 --> 01:38:56,700 - [Tommy] Wow, five minutes faster. 2156 01:38:56,700 --> 01:38:57,650 - [Alex] Nice work! 2157 01:38:58,686 --> 01:38:59,870 Okay your line's fixed! 2158 01:38:59,870 --> 01:39:01,760 Tommy puts in an amazing effort 2159 01:39:01,760 --> 01:39:03,600 and puts us in a position to succeed 2160 01:39:03,600 --> 01:39:05,260 and I'm obligated to do my best 2161 01:39:05,260 --> 01:39:07,136 to see us through to the end. 2162 01:39:07,136 --> 01:39:09,886 (dramatic music) 2163 01:39:14,130 --> 01:39:15,440 - [Tommy] Yeah AleX! 2164 01:39:15,440 --> 01:39:16,963 Crushing dude! 2165 01:39:16,963 --> 01:39:19,713 (dramatic music) 2166 01:39:35,360 --> 01:39:40,170 Alex is rocketing up these steep amazing pitches 2167 01:39:40,170 --> 01:39:42,883 2500 feet off the ground. 2168 01:39:44,200 --> 01:39:46,623 God he's just so in his element. 2169 01:39:51,990 --> 01:39:56,400 Seeing him climbing with absolute grace and confidence 2170 01:39:56,400 --> 01:39:58,200 I mean that's perfection. 2171 01:40:07,550 --> 01:40:10,300 (hooks rattling) 2172 01:40:28,886 --> 01:40:31,553 (hook clipping) 2173 01:40:35,462 --> 01:40:38,212 (hooks rattling) 2174 01:40:58,800 --> 01:40:59,633 Yeah Alex! 2175 01:40:59,633 --> 01:41:01,150 - [Alex] All right, fixed. 2176 01:41:01,150 --> 01:41:02,560 - [Tommy] Climbing with him up there 2177 01:41:02,560 --> 01:41:06,720 I get to not only witness but to be part of that mastery. 2178 01:41:08,420 --> 01:41:09,663 - [Alex] I'm on top Tommy! 2179 01:41:09,663 --> 01:41:10,913 - [Tommy] Okay! 2180 01:41:14,797 --> 01:41:19,570 And do something together, it feels, transcendent. 2181 01:41:19,570 --> 01:41:20,403 - Come on Tommy! 2182 01:41:21,490 --> 01:41:24,413 Come on, go fast! 2183 01:41:26,488 --> 01:41:28,214 Yeah Tommy come on! 2184 01:41:28,214 --> 01:41:31,714 (Tommy breathing heavily) 2185 01:41:32,585 --> 01:41:35,478 Yeah, yeah Tommy! 2186 01:41:35,478 --> 01:41:36,685 - We do it? 2187 01:41:36,685 --> 01:41:37,799 - [Alex] Oh yeah. 2188 01:41:37,799 --> 01:41:41,014 (Tommy cheers) 2189 01:41:41,014 --> 01:41:46,014 - Oh my God. 2190 01:41:48,151 --> 01:41:48,984 Oh my God. 2191 01:41:49,901 --> 01:41:52,625 (Tommy breathing heavily) 2192 01:41:52,625 --> 01:41:55,228 (Tommy grunts) 2193 01:41:55,228 --> 01:41:56,061 - What do we got? 2194 01:41:56,061 --> 01:41:57,397 - I'll come show you. 2195 01:41:57,397 --> 01:42:00,200 (Tommy grunts) 2196 01:42:00,200 --> 01:42:01,663 - Oh that was so sick dude. 2197 01:42:03,480 --> 01:42:04,313 Good work. 2198 01:42:08,540 --> 01:42:09,540 - Fuck yeah. 2199 01:42:11,803 --> 01:42:12,636 Yeah! 2200 01:42:14,190 --> 01:42:17,640 Dude, one, 58, one, 58, 07. 2201 01:42:17,640 --> 01:42:18,610 - Whoa! 2202 01:42:18,610 --> 01:42:20,194 - Yeah! - Killed it! 2203 01:42:20,194 --> 01:42:22,720 Yeah, sick. 2204 01:42:22,720 --> 01:42:23,760 - Sick. 2205 01:42:23,760 --> 01:42:25,690 - Wow beat it by two minutes. 2206 01:42:25,690 --> 01:42:27,381 - Yeah, let's never do this again. 2207 01:42:27,381 --> 01:42:28,480 (Tommy laughs) 2208 01:42:28,480 --> 01:42:30,413 - Good work dude, you were charging. 2209 01:42:31,340 --> 01:42:34,880 I actually smelled burning rubber at one point 2210 01:42:34,880 --> 01:42:36,964 and I was like that's appropriate. 2211 01:42:36,964 --> 01:42:37,970 - [Rebecca On Phone] Hello? 2212 01:42:37,970 --> 01:42:38,803 - Hey baby. 2213 01:42:39,763 --> 01:42:40,596 - [Rebecca On Phone] You did it! 2214 01:42:40,596 --> 01:42:41,429 - We did it! 2215 01:42:41,429 --> 01:42:42,930 - [Rebecca On Phone] Come on, are you guys psyched? 2216 01:42:42,930 --> 01:42:43,763 - Yeah. 2217 01:42:43,763 --> 01:42:45,030 - The thing is 'cause if we kept goin forever 2218 01:42:45,030 --> 01:42:47,270 I bet we could go to like one, 45 or something but-- 2219 01:42:47,270 --> 01:42:49,112 - Oh God, that sounds real painful. 2220 01:42:49,112 --> 01:42:50,470 - [Rebecca On Phone] We don't need to do that. 2221 01:42:50,470 --> 01:42:51,720 - Yeah no I don't wanna do that. 2222 01:42:51,720 --> 01:42:54,156 - Alex said he felt emotional when he felt the timer. 2223 01:42:54,156 --> 01:42:56,020 - [Rebecca On Phone] Are you gonna cry Alex? 2224 01:42:56,020 --> 01:42:57,502 - No no, the feeling has past, 2225 01:42:57,502 --> 01:42:58,912 I already feel like we kinda sucked 2226 01:42:58,912 --> 01:43:00,014 and we should of done better. 2227 01:43:00,014 --> 01:43:00,847 - [Tommy] Yeah. 2228 01:43:00,847 --> 01:43:01,680 - [Rebecca On Phone] Well I'd be crying 2229 01:43:01,680 --> 01:43:03,124 if you guys didn't do it right now. 2230 01:43:03,124 --> 01:43:04,499 (both laughing) 2231 01:43:04,499 --> 01:43:05,650 - Yup. 2232 01:43:05,650 --> 01:43:06,483 - [Tommy] Yo Hans. 2233 01:43:06,483 --> 01:43:07,880 - [Hans On Phone] Congratulations guys. 2234 01:43:07,880 --> 01:43:08,713 - [Alex] Oh you saw it? 2235 01:43:08,713 --> 01:43:09,546 - Thank you. - Yeah thanks. 2236 01:43:09,546 --> 01:43:10,850 - Pretty exciting huh? 2237 01:43:10,850 --> 01:43:12,180 - [Hans On Phone] Are you guys done? 2238 01:43:12,180 --> 01:43:13,920 - [Both In Unison] Yeah we're done, we're good. 2239 01:43:13,920 --> 01:43:16,170 - One, 58, 07, we're calling it good. 2240 01:43:16,170 --> 01:43:18,502 - Yeah yeah, I'm psyched with that. 2241 01:43:18,502 --> 01:43:19,610 - [Hans On Phone] Hold on, hold on. 2242 01:43:19,610 --> 01:43:21,930 One, 58, 07 right? 2243 01:43:21,930 --> 01:43:23,500 - Yup yup. 2244 01:43:23,500 --> 01:43:24,840 - [Hans On Phone] Okay that's the official time 2245 01:43:24,840 --> 01:43:25,760 that we'll go with. 2246 01:43:25,760 --> 01:43:27,686 - Yeah that's the official time. 2247 01:43:27,686 --> 01:43:31,420 You can go ahead and etch that into stone, 2248 01:43:31,420 --> 01:43:32,415 that's the official time. 2249 01:43:32,415 --> 01:43:35,165 (dramatic music) 2250 01:44:00,750 --> 01:44:02,849 - That probably knocks Brad and Jim out of the game. 2251 01:44:02,849 --> 01:44:04,570 (Tommy laughs) 2252 01:44:04,570 --> 01:44:05,930 - That was the goal all along. 2253 01:44:05,930 --> 01:44:07,390 - Yeah exactly. 2254 01:44:07,390 --> 01:44:09,360 Come on who cares about breaking two, 2255 01:44:09,360 --> 01:44:11,762 let's just break Brads spirit. 2256 01:44:11,762 --> 01:44:14,152 (Tommy laughs) 2257 01:44:14,152 --> 01:44:15,789 Just kidding Brad. 2258 01:44:15,789 --> 01:44:18,372 (Tommy laughs) 2259 01:44:38,389 --> 01:44:40,806 (slow music) 160100

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