Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:25,367 --> 00:00:29,400
male narrator: This is a story
about port wine,
2
00:00:29,400 --> 00:00:31,567
which was invented in Portugal.
3
00:00:33,500 --> 00:00:37,100
Curiously, though,
our story begins in England.
4
00:00:41,333 --> 00:00:44,333
In an ancient cellar
in the city of London,
5
00:00:44,333 --> 00:00:47,633
deep underneath the medieval
Vintners' Hall,
6
00:00:47,633 --> 00:00:52,200
preparations are in hand
for a special event.
7
00:00:52,200 --> 00:00:55,467
Adrian Bridge, managing
director of Taylor's,
8
00:00:55,467 --> 00:00:58,633
one of the most prestigious
port wine houses,
9
00:00:58,633 --> 00:01:01,700
is personally supervising
the decanting
10
00:01:01,700 --> 00:01:06,700
of 35 bottles of his valuable
1985 vintage.
11
00:01:09,267 --> 00:01:11,133
- This court is summoned,
pursuant
12
00:01:11,133 --> 00:01:14,033
to the company's charters,
for the installation
13
00:01:14,033 --> 00:01:16,967
of its officers
for the ensuing year.
14
00:01:16,967 --> 00:01:19,867
Gentlemen, please be upstanding.
15
00:01:19,867 --> 00:01:22,067
narrator: Upstairs,
final rehearsals
16
00:01:22,067 --> 00:01:23,933
are taking place
for the installation
17
00:01:23,933 --> 00:01:25,367
of the new master
18
00:01:25,367 --> 00:01:28,733
of The Worshipful Company
of Distillers.
19
00:01:28,733 --> 00:01:30,733
- David, I congratulate you.
20
00:01:30,733 --> 00:01:31,833
- Thank you.
All good luck.
21
00:01:31,833 --> 00:01:35,633
[rousing orchestral music]
22
00:01:35,633 --> 00:01:38,000
narrator: The London
wine and spirit trade
23
00:01:38,000 --> 00:01:40,467
have come to pay
their respects.
24
00:01:40,467 --> 00:01:47,800
*
25
00:01:47,800 --> 00:01:51,233
London has been a pivotal
market for fine wine
26
00:01:51,233 --> 00:01:53,133
since the Renaissance.
27
00:01:53,133 --> 00:01:57,600
[bugle playing]
28
00:01:57,600 --> 00:02:00,633
The nearest place to find
good wine was France,
29
00:02:00,633 --> 00:02:03,100
but in the past,
England always seemed
30
00:02:03,100 --> 00:02:05,967
to be at war with France,
so they had to look
31
00:02:05,967 --> 00:02:08,967
further afield
to their oldest ally,
32
00:02:08,967 --> 00:02:10,700
Portugal.
33
00:02:10,700 --> 00:02:13,700
[instrumental music]
34
00:02:13,700 --> 00:02:21,000
*
35
00:02:21,000 --> 00:02:24,367
Port is a sweet wine
fortified with brandy,
36
00:02:24,367 --> 00:02:28,433
originally to help it withstand
the voyage to England.
37
00:02:28,433 --> 00:02:30,800
It was created
by English merchants
38
00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:33,267
much like these
gentlemen here.
39
00:02:33,267 --> 00:02:35,300
It's part of English tradition.
40
00:02:35,300 --> 00:02:38,133
Today it's still almost
obligatory
41
00:02:38,133 --> 00:02:40,633
for loyal toasts
to the Crown.
42
00:02:45,767 --> 00:02:49,400
- The Queen.
43
00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:51,100
all: The Queen.
44
00:02:53,067 --> 00:02:54,900
narrator: But tonight
also celebrates
45
00:02:54,900 --> 00:02:57,833
the British Royal Navy,
which defended
46
00:02:57,833 --> 00:02:59,567
the port trade against
the French
47
00:02:59,567 --> 00:03:01,633
for more than 200 years.
48
00:03:01,633 --> 00:03:04,633
[lively orchestral music]
49
00:03:04,633 --> 00:03:12,100
*
50
00:03:12,100 --> 00:03:14,067
- Would you like
a Malteser, sir?
51
00:03:14,067 --> 00:03:15,767
[laughter]
52
00:03:15,767 --> 00:03:18,233
*
53
00:03:18,233 --> 00:03:21,633
- Lovely,
absolutely delicious.
54
00:03:21,633 --> 00:03:28,200
*
55
00:03:29,800 --> 00:03:32,967
narrator: This is the classic
image of port wine:
56
00:03:32,967 --> 00:03:36,000
an after-dinner drink,
a man's drink,
57
00:03:36,000 --> 00:03:37,633
a curiously British drink
58
00:03:37,633 --> 00:03:41,633
in spite of its obvious
Portuguese origins.
59
00:03:41,633 --> 00:03:44,233
all: * Rule, Britannia
60
00:03:44,233 --> 00:03:47,867
* Britannia rules the waves
61
00:03:47,867 --> 00:03:51,233
* Britons never,
never, never *
62
00:03:51,233 --> 00:03:56,167
* Shall be slaves
63
00:03:56,167 --> 00:03:59,533
narrator: Well, so it is
a very British drink,
64
00:03:59,533 --> 00:04:03,067
but out in Portugal,
it's another world.
65
00:04:05,067 --> 00:04:08,267
[gentle orchestral music]
66
00:04:08,267 --> 00:04:16,100
*
67
00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:39,367
Deep in a forest in central
Portugal is Bussaco...
68
00:04:41,933 --> 00:04:44,833
Built as a royal palace
and hunting lodge
69
00:04:44,833 --> 00:04:47,767
about 100 years ago.
70
00:04:47,767 --> 00:04:52,000
It was just ready to receive
its first royal guests
71
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:54,933
when there was a revolution.
72
00:04:54,933 --> 00:04:59,167
Since the 1920s,
it's been a grand hotel.
73
00:05:02,567 --> 00:05:05,133
They've been making
their own wines here
74
00:05:05,133 --> 00:05:08,867
since the hotel opened.
75
00:05:08,867 --> 00:05:13,533
The oldest date from 1924.
76
00:05:13,533 --> 00:05:18,533
There are more than 300,000
bottles in this cellar.
77
00:05:26,567 --> 00:05:29,500
Bussaco is a famous place
in Portugal
78
00:05:29,500 --> 00:05:32,467
to hold a grand event.
79
00:05:32,467 --> 00:05:35,467
[choral music]
80
00:05:35,467 --> 00:05:43,300
*
81
00:05:45,033 --> 00:05:47,400
Tonight is the birthday
of one of Portugal's
82
00:05:47,400 --> 00:05:52,400
most brilliant winemakers,
Dirk Niepoort.
83
00:05:52,400 --> 00:05:54,667
For this occasion,
he's been pulling treasures
84
00:05:54,667 --> 00:05:57,633
out of his family's cellar
that represent
85
00:05:57,633 --> 00:06:00,567
some of the best wine
and port ever made
86
00:06:00,567 --> 00:06:03,300
by anyone anywhere.
87
00:06:03,300 --> 00:06:05,400
His guests come
from around the world
88
00:06:05,400 --> 00:06:09,400
and include his long-time
friend Martine Saunier,
89
00:06:09,400 --> 00:06:13,433
who imports his wines
into America.
90
00:06:13,433 --> 00:06:16,667
Dirk Niepoort represents
the modern face
91
00:06:16,667 --> 00:06:18,500
of Portugal's wine.
92
00:06:18,500 --> 00:06:21,633
For him, port is only part
of the story.
93
00:06:21,633 --> 00:06:25,800
His aim is to create
a revolution in winemaking.
94
00:06:25,800 --> 00:06:30,400
Portugal is home to more than
400 native grape varieties,
95
00:06:30,400 --> 00:06:33,100
and so far, they've only
scratched the surface
96
00:06:33,100 --> 00:06:35,167
of what's possible.
97
00:06:35,167 --> 00:06:37,533
For Dirk and those who
think like him,
98
00:06:37,533 --> 00:06:40,800
the future possibilities
are fantastic.
99
00:06:40,800 --> 00:06:42,867
The tastes and blends could be
100
00:06:42,867 --> 00:06:45,633
like nothing yet created
on Earth.
101
00:06:45,633 --> 00:06:52,200
*
102
00:06:52,200 --> 00:06:55,233
[cheers and applause]
103
00:06:56,633 --> 00:06:59,633
[relaxed orchestral music]
104
00:06:59,633 --> 00:07:07,467
*
105
00:07:11,333 --> 00:07:13,933
Port takes its name
from the ancient city
106
00:07:13,933 --> 00:07:18,633
of Oporto on Portugal's
Atlantic coast.
107
00:07:18,633 --> 00:07:21,033
It sits on the River Douro.
108
00:07:21,033 --> 00:07:24,067
It's a northern city,
a manufacturing city,
109
00:07:24,067 --> 00:07:27,500
a no-nonsense,
granite-based city.
110
00:07:27,500 --> 00:07:29,967
The new town of Gaia
was built
111
00:07:29,967 --> 00:07:32,000
on the opposite bank
of the river
112
00:07:32,000 --> 00:07:33,667
in the 18th century
113
00:07:33,667 --> 00:07:37,333
to accommodate the new boom
industry of the time.
114
00:07:37,333 --> 00:07:41,600
This is where they store
and blend the ports.
115
00:07:41,600 --> 00:07:43,667
To this day,
in every one of these
116
00:07:43,667 --> 00:07:49,600
elegant, low-roofed warehouses
lies a fortune in port.
117
00:07:49,600 --> 00:07:55,033
*
118
00:07:55,033 --> 00:07:57,867
Dirk Niepoort
and Martine Saunier
119
00:07:57,867 --> 00:08:00,300
have known each other
for many years.
120
00:08:00,300 --> 00:08:04,133
She happened to try his port
and then his fine wines
121
00:08:04,133 --> 00:08:08,533
and was instantly captivated.
122
00:08:08,533 --> 00:08:12,100
One secret to the family
success is in the age
123
00:08:12,100 --> 00:08:15,067
and complexity of the wine
in these pipes,
124
00:08:15,067 --> 00:08:17,067
as the barrels are called.
125
00:08:19,900 --> 00:08:22,833
This is what really
interests Martine,
126
00:08:22,833 --> 00:08:25,500
because it's a treasure house.
127
00:08:27,333 --> 00:08:29,600
There are wines here
that date back almost
128
00:08:29,600 --> 00:08:33,033
to the founding of the company
in the 1840s.
129
00:08:35,933 --> 00:08:43,100
Some are kept in demijohns,
old glass apothecaries' jars.
130
00:08:43,100 --> 00:08:45,100
- This is really our treasure.
131
00:08:45,100 --> 00:08:47,000
Here you have the Garrafeiras.
132
00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:48,433
- My word.
133
00:08:50,900 --> 00:08:52,533
- Garrafeira is really special.
134
00:08:52,533 --> 00:08:54,300
We are the only ones
doing that.
135
00:08:54,300 --> 00:08:57,900
As my grandfather says,
aging it in these bottles
136
00:08:57,900 --> 00:08:59,233
does make a big difference.
137
00:08:59,233 --> 00:09:01,500
You can recognize it
very, very well
138
00:09:01,500 --> 00:09:03,433
because of its elegance.
139
00:09:03,433 --> 00:09:05,233
That's why I like to call
the Garrafeiras
140
00:09:05,233 --> 00:09:08,900
our Burgundy-style port.
141
00:09:08,900 --> 00:09:10,867
It doesn't sound right,
but it does.
142
00:09:10,867 --> 00:09:13,300
And I believe you do like
Garrafeiras.
143
00:09:13,300 --> 00:09:15,167
- It's my favorite
anyway.
144
00:09:15,167 --> 00:09:17,800
- Yeah, it makes sense.
It's more delicate.
145
00:09:17,800 --> 00:09:19,733
It's never as dark
as a vintage.
146
00:09:19,733 --> 00:09:21,500
It's never as fat
as a Colheita.
147
00:09:21,500 --> 00:09:23,733
- It is so elegant.
- Yes, it sings.
148
00:09:23,733 --> 00:09:25,533
It just has its own expression.
149
00:09:25,533 --> 00:09:28,100
Incredible lightness of being
sort of thing.
150
00:09:29,633 --> 00:09:32,033
narrator: Dirk Niepoort
is a rising presence
151
00:09:32,033 --> 00:09:34,467
in the landscape of port.
152
00:09:34,467 --> 00:09:36,400
The industry is dominated,
however,
153
00:09:36,400 --> 00:09:39,800
by two great companies
of English origin,
154
00:09:39,800 --> 00:09:44,300
the Symingtons and the Taylors.
155
00:09:44,300 --> 00:09:46,867
You may see a multitude
of brand names,
156
00:09:46,867 --> 00:09:49,800
each with their faithful
following,
157
00:09:49,800 --> 00:09:51,833
but half the major port
brands--
158
00:09:51,833 --> 00:09:54,267
Dow, Cockburn's, Fonseca--
159
00:09:54,267 --> 00:09:56,667
are owned by these two
families,
160
00:09:56,667 --> 00:10:01,833
which are the largest companies
making quality port.
161
00:10:01,833 --> 00:10:05,267
Top of the tree, perhaps,
and constantly expanding
162
00:10:05,267 --> 00:10:08,033
are the Symingtons.
163
00:10:08,033 --> 00:10:11,567
This is Paul,
the joint managing director.
164
00:10:11,567 --> 00:10:14,100
- That's interesting,
so we have the Bomfim '01
165
00:10:14,100 --> 00:10:17,700
and the Malvedos '01.
166
00:10:17,700 --> 00:10:20,167
I work currently with my
brother and three cousins,
167
00:10:20,167 --> 00:10:22,000
so there are five members
of my family
168
00:10:22,000 --> 00:10:24,000
working in the business
with me.
169
00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:26,333
I believe there's a very
powerful affinity
170
00:10:26,333 --> 00:10:28,933
between families and wine.
171
00:10:28,933 --> 00:10:33,200
And however powerful
big corporations become,
172
00:10:33,200 --> 00:10:35,933
I don't believe their philosophy
lends itself
173
00:10:35,933 --> 00:10:37,867
very well to wine.
174
00:10:37,867 --> 00:10:41,133
- At the moment,
they are quite closed.
175
00:10:41,133 --> 00:10:42,733
- The color's fantastic.
176
00:10:42,733 --> 00:10:45,267
I mean, you could put that
in a pen and write with it.
177
00:10:45,267 --> 00:10:48,300
It's just so concentrated.
178
00:10:48,300 --> 00:10:49,867
Everything has to be
long-term.
179
00:10:49,867 --> 00:10:51,267
You're putting wine
in the cellar,
180
00:10:51,267 --> 00:10:53,467
which will hopefully be
a magnificent
181
00:10:53,467 --> 00:10:55,700
10- or 20-year-old
in years to come.
182
00:10:55,700 --> 00:10:58,900
We are in the worst recession
Portugal has had for decades.
183
00:10:58,900 --> 00:11:02,500
We bought an important vineyard
last year, in June last year.
184
00:11:02,500 --> 00:11:04,700
If I had had to go to a
shareholders' meeting
185
00:11:04,700 --> 00:11:07,667
with a whole lot of investors,
they would've probably
186
00:11:07,667 --> 00:11:09,100
sacked me on the spot.
187
00:11:09,100 --> 00:11:11,367
My family decided it
round this table here
188
00:11:11,367 --> 00:11:13,367
in five minutes,
even in the middle
189
00:11:13,367 --> 00:11:15,267
of a big recession,
because we know
190
00:11:15,267 --> 00:11:17,367
we're thinking a long way
down the road.
191
00:11:17,367 --> 00:11:20,733
If Charles did his job right,
his kids will one day
192
00:11:20,733 --> 00:11:23,633
be saying, "Dad made this wine,
and was he good,
193
00:11:23,633 --> 00:11:25,067
or was he not good?"
194
00:11:25,067 --> 00:11:26,400
But it is.
195
00:11:26,400 --> 00:11:28,600
For us, this is all part
of what we live for
196
00:11:28,600 --> 00:11:29,600
and why we make the wine.
197
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:30,700
- You said it's interesting.
198
00:11:30,700 --> 00:11:31,833
It's be a lot more interesting
199
00:11:31,833 --> 00:11:33,433
if I had some in the glass.
200
00:11:33,433 --> 00:11:35,367
- This is all mine.
You can't have it.
201
00:11:35,367 --> 00:11:37,733
- Thank you.
202
00:11:37,733 --> 00:11:39,267
narrator: Down the road
203
00:11:39,267 --> 00:11:43,400
are the Symingtons' archrivals,
the Taylors.
204
00:11:43,400 --> 00:11:45,300
Although not as big
as the Symingtons,
205
00:11:45,300 --> 00:11:49,267
they claim to make
the world's finest port.
206
00:11:49,267 --> 00:11:52,133
The CEO is Adrian Bridge.
207
00:11:52,133 --> 00:11:54,267
- Taylor's is a very
historic company.
208
00:11:54,267 --> 00:11:56,733
I mean, clearly, going back
321 years,
209
00:11:56,733 --> 00:11:58,500
it has got an immense history.
210
00:11:58,500 --> 00:12:00,267
So, obviously, Taylor's is
one of our brands.
211
00:12:00,267 --> 00:12:01,900
And we have several others.
212
00:12:01,900 --> 00:12:03,167
One is Fonseca,
213
00:12:03,167 --> 00:12:04,533
and another one
which is Croft,
214
00:12:04,533 --> 00:12:07,333
which, in fact,
dates all the way back to 1588,
215
00:12:07,333 --> 00:12:09,633
so it's by far and away
the oldest company.
216
00:12:09,633 --> 00:12:13,367
It was established, in fact,
from a royal charter,
217
00:12:13,367 --> 00:12:16,167
monopoly charter granted
by Queen Elizabeth I.
218
00:12:16,167 --> 00:12:18,100
But that, in essence,
is what we are, yes,
219
00:12:18,100 --> 00:12:21,600
a business that is
continuing to do
220
00:12:21,600 --> 00:12:23,500
what we've always done.
221
00:12:23,500 --> 00:12:26,700
[gentle string
and harpsichord music]
222
00:12:26,700 --> 00:12:32,467
*
223
00:12:32,467 --> 00:12:34,933
narrator: Though most port
is stored here,
224
00:12:34,933 --> 00:12:36,400
the grapes used to make it
225
00:12:36,400 --> 00:12:39,400
don't grow anywhere near
Oporto.
226
00:12:39,400 --> 00:12:42,500
The vineyards start
more than 100 miles away
227
00:12:42,500 --> 00:12:45,700
to the east, and they stretch
all the way
228
00:12:45,700 --> 00:12:47,767
to the Spanish border.
229
00:12:47,767 --> 00:12:50,667
Imitation port wines
are made all over the world,
230
00:12:50,667 --> 00:12:55,300
but the real thing comes
from here in the Douro valley.
231
00:13:00,233 --> 00:13:03,000
The Douro is a strange land.
232
00:13:06,033 --> 00:13:08,133
It still feels very much
cut off
233
00:13:08,133 --> 00:13:09,633
from the rest of the country.
234
00:13:13,000 --> 00:13:17,233
It's also a tough environment.
235
00:13:17,233 --> 00:13:21,500
The surrounding countryside
is dark, hard granite.
236
00:13:21,500 --> 00:13:23,500
The river, twisting
and turning,
237
00:13:23,500 --> 00:13:28,467
has cut its way down
into deep, dark canyons.
238
00:13:28,467 --> 00:13:31,133
In winter, it can look
more like a coal field
239
00:13:31,133 --> 00:13:32,433
than wine country.
240
00:13:35,500 --> 00:13:38,133
Vineyards cling to
near-vertical slopes
241
00:13:38,133 --> 00:13:39,633
in the valley.
242
00:13:39,633 --> 00:13:42,167
For centuries, they've
dropped their roots
243
00:13:42,167 --> 00:13:46,167
deep down into
the crumbly rock.
244
00:13:46,167 --> 00:13:49,633
There's still a huge diversity
of ancient vines,
245
00:13:49,633 --> 00:13:52,767
but some are being uprooted now
and replaced
246
00:13:52,767 --> 00:13:54,967
by standard varieties.
247
00:13:54,967 --> 00:13:58,033
Their unique flavors
could be lost forever.
248
00:13:59,767 --> 00:14:03,000
Dirk Niepoort has spent years
looking for parcels
249
00:14:03,000 --> 00:14:05,400
of these old vines.
250
00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:08,633
Dirk's family own less than
40 acres in the Douro.
251
00:14:10,467 --> 00:14:13,400
They prefer to make deals
with local families
252
00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:17,067
who've nurtured these hidden
corners for generations.
253
00:14:19,100 --> 00:14:22,133
[all speaking Portuguese]
254
00:14:33,967 --> 00:14:38,200
narrator: Most growers in the
Douro are simple farmers.
255
00:14:38,200 --> 00:14:42,000
They just grow grapes.
They don't make wine.
256
00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:44,333
A few may own less than
half an acre
257
00:14:44,333 --> 00:14:48,800
of incredible old vines,
just a few rows.
258
00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:50,833
- This is very, very old
vineyard.
259
00:14:50,833 --> 00:14:52,967
And it's one of my favorite
vineyards.
260
00:14:52,967 --> 00:14:55,033
And it makes good wine.
261
00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:01,000
Look, look here.
262
00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:04,100
Here you see, again,
the stones, how they--
263
00:15:04,100 --> 00:15:06,200
- Yeah, they support.
- The support.
264
00:15:06,200 --> 00:15:08,233
The different vines.
265
00:15:10,500 --> 00:15:15,133
Look at these pieces,
how they are hard rock,
266
00:15:15,133 --> 00:15:18,467
but you can break them
bare hands,
267
00:15:18,467 --> 00:15:21,733
which means it's really,
really old schist.
268
00:15:21,733 --> 00:15:23,367
And if you look,
you see there's
269
00:15:23,367 --> 00:15:26,967
very, very fine layers,
which is what makes
270
00:15:26,967 --> 00:15:29,233
the big, big difference.
271
00:15:29,233 --> 00:15:30,033
See?
272
00:15:30,033 --> 00:15:31,833
- Yeah, I see, yes.
273
00:15:31,833 --> 00:15:33,867
And it breaks off easily.
- Yep.
274
00:15:33,867 --> 00:15:36,767
- Yes. I see.
275
00:15:36,767 --> 00:15:39,267
- I call this the treasure.
276
00:15:39,267 --> 00:15:41,833
It's a hidden treasure
that I found in the Douro.
277
00:15:41,833 --> 00:15:45,200
In fact, it took me some years
to find who is the owner.
278
00:15:45,200 --> 00:15:47,400
And it took many years
to convince him
279
00:15:47,400 --> 00:15:49,367
to actually sell me the grapes.
280
00:15:49,367 --> 00:15:51,567
He thought I was
a little bit crazy,
281
00:15:51,567 --> 00:15:53,133
and he laughed.
282
00:15:53,133 --> 00:15:55,767
And I said, "No, look,
I really like this vineyard,
283
00:15:55,767 --> 00:15:56,967
"and I like it the way it is.
284
00:15:56,967 --> 00:15:58,533
Would you sell me the grapes?"
285
00:15:58,533 --> 00:16:00,933
And he said, "Yes, but aren't
you going to buy
286
00:16:00,933 --> 00:16:02,433
my good grapes?"
287
00:16:02,433 --> 00:16:04,767
And I said, "No, I only want
to buy these grapes."
288
00:16:04,767 --> 00:16:09,033
And he really thought
I was nuts.
289
00:16:09,033 --> 00:16:12,667
narrator: Although they may not
share Dirk's love of old vines,
290
00:16:12,667 --> 00:16:14,967
when the farmers sit down
to bargain,
291
00:16:14,967 --> 00:16:18,367
they know the value
of what they've got.
292
00:16:18,367 --> 00:16:20,300
- Today
we get along very well,
293
00:16:20,300 --> 00:16:22,333
and he seems to accept it.
294
00:16:22,333 --> 00:16:24,200
He still doesn't understand
why I like it,
295
00:16:24,200 --> 00:16:26,033
but it's also interesting.
296
00:16:26,033 --> 00:16:28,167
Suddenly he said to me,
"Well, it's interesting.
297
00:16:28,167 --> 00:16:29,900
"Nobody really wanted
those grapes,
298
00:16:29,900 --> 00:16:31,400
"but now there are some
colleagues of you
299
00:16:31,400 --> 00:16:33,367
that would like to
buy the grapes."
300
00:16:33,367 --> 00:16:35,267
And I said, "Yes, but you don't
sell it to them, do you?"
301
00:16:35,267 --> 00:16:36,733
And he said,
"No, they are for you."
302
00:16:41,967 --> 00:16:45,000
[both speaking Portuguese]
303
00:16:51,300 --> 00:16:56,200
narrator: Dirk has other
kinds of suppliers too.
304
00:16:56,200 --> 00:16:59,300
Manuel Villas-Boas
and his family have been
305
00:16:59,300 --> 00:17:01,567
making wine
in this ancient house,
306
00:17:01,567 --> 00:17:06,533
the Morgadio da Calcada,
since it was built in 1680.
307
00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:13,800
These barrels are some of
the biggest ever made
308
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:17,433
in the region.
309
00:17:17,433 --> 00:17:20,167
Manuel, like many others
in the Douro,
310
00:17:20,167 --> 00:17:23,700
has vines that are well over
100 years old.
311
00:17:27,033 --> 00:17:31,400
There's still no heating
in most of this house.
312
00:17:31,400 --> 00:17:35,500
In fact, electricity
didn't reach much of the Douro
313
00:17:35,500 --> 00:17:37,133
till the 1970s.
314
00:17:46,500 --> 00:17:50,267
Manuel and his uncle
often like to start a fire
315
00:17:50,267 --> 00:17:52,067
to cook the evening meal.
316
00:17:56,467 --> 00:17:59,500
We're a long way
from the bright city lights
317
00:17:59,500 --> 00:18:01,067
of Porto here.
318
00:18:01,067 --> 00:18:04,100
[both speaking Portuguese]
319
00:18:06,633 --> 00:18:09,333
The Morgadio is one of
the oldest houses
320
00:18:09,333 --> 00:18:12,933
in Provesende, a picture
postcard village
321
00:18:12,933 --> 00:18:16,033
that is gradually dying.
322
00:18:16,033 --> 00:18:17,600
Outside the wine industry,
323
00:18:17,600 --> 00:18:20,667
there's virtually no work
around here.
324
00:18:20,667 --> 00:18:22,933
One of the people trying
to save the village
325
00:18:22,933 --> 00:18:24,900
is Paul Symington.
326
00:18:24,900 --> 00:18:26,567
- This is a vineyard
I've just replanted.
327
00:18:26,567 --> 00:18:29,567
And then down at the bottom
there is...
328
00:18:29,567 --> 00:18:31,900
narrator: Paul sounds
completely English,
329
00:18:31,900 --> 00:18:36,867
but he was born in Porto
and grew up here in the Douro.
330
00:18:36,867 --> 00:18:38,800
He and his wife have
opened a shop
331
00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:41,200
and built a home
in Provesende.
332
00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:44,033
They've also planted their
own personal vineyard
333
00:18:44,033 --> 00:18:47,100
1,000 feet above
the valley floor.
334
00:18:47,100 --> 00:18:50,133
- It's a great panorama
of some of the best vineyards.
335
00:18:50,133 --> 00:18:51,933
We're very lucky to be here.
336
00:18:51,933 --> 00:18:53,633
And we have a fabulous view.
337
00:18:53,633 --> 00:18:56,933
My father was born here,
sadly died in January this year.
338
00:18:56,933 --> 00:18:59,800
He had a great fear
of dying in Britain.
339
00:18:59,800 --> 00:19:03,100
He said, "If I die in England,
please take me home."
340
00:19:03,100 --> 00:19:05,867
So he had a British passport,
but this was his home.
341
00:19:05,867 --> 00:19:07,167
People don't understand that.
342
00:19:07,167 --> 00:19:08,500
They want you to fit in a box.
343
00:19:08,500 --> 00:19:10,400
You're either British
or Portuguese.
344
00:19:10,400 --> 00:19:14,933
And they simply cannot accept
that you can be both.
345
00:19:14,933 --> 00:19:16,300
And we are both.
346
00:19:18,733 --> 00:19:21,400
narrator: But how did Paul's
English ancestors
347
00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:25,933
ever get so deeply involved
in port?
348
00:19:25,933 --> 00:19:28,300
- The merchants from Cornwall,
from Wales,
349
00:19:28,300 --> 00:19:31,200
from the west of England
would come down here
350
00:19:31,200 --> 00:19:36,067
literally as an intrepid
merchant selling wool and cod.
351
00:19:36,067 --> 00:19:37,500
And you weren't
a very clever merchant
352
00:19:37,500 --> 00:19:39,200
if you didn't take
something back.
353
00:19:39,200 --> 00:19:42,600
And they would take olive oil
and fruit and wine.
354
00:19:42,600 --> 00:19:44,367
And then, of course,
it had the blessing
355
00:19:44,367 --> 00:19:47,367
of the political friendship
between the two countries.
356
00:19:47,367 --> 00:19:50,033
They've been allies
for 600 years.
357
00:19:50,033 --> 00:19:51,800
It's the oldest unbroken
alliance
358
00:19:51,800 --> 00:19:54,300
in the history of the world.
359
00:19:54,300 --> 00:19:57,467
narrator: But however close
Britain and Portugal have been,
360
00:19:57,467 --> 00:20:00,900
the question remained--
how to control the quality
361
00:20:00,900 --> 00:20:02,467
of the wine.
362
00:20:02,467 --> 00:20:07,333
250 years ago, they came up
with a novel solution.
363
00:20:07,333 --> 00:20:09,967
This is
Manuel de Novaes Cabral,
364
00:20:09,967 --> 00:20:12,733
head of the Port Wine
Institute.
365
00:20:12,733 --> 00:20:15,567
- [speaking Portuguese]
366
00:20:47,567 --> 00:20:50,600
narrator: But for the British,
that wasn't enough.
367
00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:53,000
They felt they needed
a headquarters
368
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:55,367
to manage things
here in Porto.
369
00:20:55,367 --> 00:20:59,367
So in 1790, they built
the Factory House.
370
00:21:03,133 --> 00:21:07,000
Part market,
part club, part meeting rooms,
371
00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:08,967
but certainly never a factory,
372
00:21:08,967 --> 00:21:13,167
the organization still thrives.
373
00:21:13,167 --> 00:21:16,567
Every Wednesday, they hold
an official lunch.
374
00:21:19,167 --> 00:21:22,633
David Guimaraens,
head winemaker at Taylor's,
375
00:21:22,633 --> 00:21:25,233
arrives with a guest.
376
00:21:25,233 --> 00:21:28,600
Full members have to be part
of an English port family,
377
00:21:28,600 --> 00:21:31,700
and they normally
have to be male.
378
00:21:31,700 --> 00:21:34,033
[men laugh]
379
00:21:34,033 --> 00:21:36,100
- There's certainly an image
that port is all
380
00:21:36,100 --> 00:21:40,067
sort of old men
and, you know, reading a book,
381
00:21:40,067 --> 00:21:41,800
smoking a cigar,
drinking a glass of port,
382
00:21:41,800 --> 00:21:43,300
and that simply isn't true.
383
00:21:43,300 --> 00:21:46,367
I think as an industry,
we in our individual companies
384
00:21:46,367 --> 00:21:48,300
tend to be
fairly forward-looking.
385
00:21:48,300 --> 00:21:51,400
And it's kind of nice to have
this club where it sort of
386
00:21:51,400 --> 00:21:54,567
anchors back to some of that
tradition, lest we forget it.
387
00:21:57,267 --> 00:21:59,500
narrator: Here today,
the Symington family
388
00:21:59,500 --> 00:22:01,800
are represented by James
and Peter,
389
00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:04,367
two of Paul's many cousins.
390
00:22:10,900 --> 00:22:15,133
For 200 years, these traditions
have been maintained.
391
00:22:15,133 --> 00:22:18,033
Stilton cheese, specially
brought over from England
392
00:22:18,033 --> 00:22:22,067
to complement the port
at the end of the meal.
393
00:22:22,067 --> 00:22:25,600
There's no sense of unseemly
hurry here.
394
00:22:25,600 --> 00:22:28,600
[classical quartet music]
395
00:22:28,600 --> 00:22:31,367
*
396
00:22:31,367 --> 00:22:34,300
With such an English presence,
you might think that Portugal
397
00:22:34,300 --> 00:22:37,600
was in some sense overshadowed
by the Brits.
398
00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:39,267
But it's not.
399
00:22:39,267 --> 00:22:41,667
Fiercely independent
for 900 years,
400
00:22:41,667 --> 00:22:45,100
it was master of the first
global empire
401
00:22:45,100 --> 00:22:47,833
that stretched from Brazil
to Asia.
402
00:22:47,833 --> 00:22:51,300
So it's no surprise that
Portugal has also created
403
00:22:51,300 --> 00:22:54,433
port wines to be proud of.
404
00:22:54,433 --> 00:22:58,867
One of the finest
is Ramos Pinto.
405
00:22:58,867 --> 00:23:07,100
*
406
00:23:07,100 --> 00:23:09,800
- So welcome, Martine.
- Thank you.
407
00:23:09,800 --> 00:23:14,633
- You're at the Ramos Pinto
Museum, and I hope you like it.
408
00:23:17,167 --> 00:23:19,467
narrator: Almost everything
about Ramos Pinto
409
00:23:19,467 --> 00:23:22,300
represents the opposite
of the British tradition--
410
00:23:22,300 --> 00:23:26,733
a more feminine appeal,
a more southern market,
411
00:23:26,733 --> 00:23:28,533
Brazil, Africa,
412
00:23:28,533 --> 00:23:33,333
a different attitude
to what port's really about.
413
00:23:33,333 --> 00:23:38,900
- And the same idea
that you don't know
414
00:23:38,900 --> 00:23:44,300
if the temptation is the wine
or the ladies.
415
00:23:44,300 --> 00:23:47,267
- Well, it's a combination,
I would say.
416
00:23:47,267 --> 00:23:50,133
- I think.
It's not easy to resist.
417
00:23:52,267 --> 00:23:54,533
narrator: A lot of that is the
direct responsibility
418
00:23:54,533 --> 00:23:57,733
of the founder,
a larger-than-life character
419
00:23:57,733 --> 00:23:59,800
called Adriano.
420
00:23:59,800 --> 00:24:02,800
He was such a super salesman
that a glass of port
421
00:24:02,800 --> 00:24:07,300
is still often referred
to as an Adriano in Brazil.
422
00:24:09,767 --> 00:24:13,033
- And now a port.
423
00:24:13,033 --> 00:24:15,967
Finally, a port.
- Finally!
424
00:24:15,967 --> 00:24:17,733
- I'm going to sit here,
because Adriano
425
00:24:17,733 --> 00:24:19,900
used to sit here.
426
00:24:19,900 --> 00:24:21,333
It was a pleasure
to receive you
427
00:24:21,333 --> 00:24:24,733
and--for me and for Adriano.
428
00:24:24,733 --> 00:24:27,633
He's in the picture.
429
00:24:27,633 --> 00:24:31,400
So saude, Adriano, and saude.
430
00:24:31,400 --> 00:24:32,433
both: Saude.
431
00:24:37,167 --> 00:24:40,200
[clock chiming]
432
00:24:47,233 --> 00:24:50,433
[lively orchestral music]
433
00:24:50,433 --> 00:24:52,233
*
434
00:24:52,233 --> 00:24:54,533
narrator: Wine from the Douro
used to be brought down
435
00:24:54,533 --> 00:24:58,833
to Porto by boat
until they dammed the river.
436
00:24:58,833 --> 00:25:01,900
The boats were small
and frail and shallow-hulled
437
00:25:01,900 --> 00:25:04,267
to navigate the rapids.
438
00:25:04,267 --> 00:25:08,233
A few of them still exist,
maintained by the port houses.
439
00:25:08,233 --> 00:25:12,067
And every summer, they compete
in a colorful race.
440
00:25:16,133 --> 00:25:19,067
Taylor's captain
is Adrian Bridge.
441
00:25:19,067 --> 00:25:20,733
- I think we'll win.
442
00:25:20,733 --> 00:25:23,167
And then I think Fonseca's
probably gonna come second.
443
00:25:23,167 --> 00:25:27,400
Other than that,
the rest of the trade, behind.
444
00:25:27,400 --> 00:25:30,633
[horn blows]
445
00:25:30,633 --> 00:25:33,633
[lively orchestral music]
446
00:25:33,633 --> 00:25:41,467
*
447
00:25:48,900 --> 00:25:51,933
narrator: The honor of the
brand, not just the port house,
448
00:25:51,933 --> 00:25:54,867
is at stake.
449
00:25:54,867 --> 00:25:58,567
Senior managers join forces
with sturdy apprentices
450
00:25:58,567 --> 00:26:01,933
and try to maneuver the boats
into some sense of order.
451
00:26:01,933 --> 00:26:07,167
*
452
00:26:07,167 --> 00:26:10,567
Paul Symington is in charge
of the Dow's boat.
453
00:26:10,567 --> 00:26:12,100
- Okay.
454
00:26:12,100 --> 00:26:13,567
narrator:
It's not easy.
455
00:26:13,567 --> 00:26:16,133
The boats were designed
to float downstream
456
00:26:16,133 --> 00:26:19,033
loaded with pipes or barrels
of port.
457
00:26:19,033 --> 00:26:21,333
Now they're sailing upriver,
trying to catch
458
00:26:21,333 --> 00:26:23,533
what little wind there may be.
459
00:26:23,533 --> 00:26:25,600
- What a disaster.
460
00:26:25,600 --> 00:26:27,567
narrator:
Alas, skill in winemaking
461
00:26:27,567 --> 00:26:30,733
doesn't necessarily transfer
to skill in navigation.
462
00:26:35,867 --> 00:26:38,700
- [speaking Portuguese]
463
00:26:42,700 --> 00:26:50,533
*
464
00:26:51,567 --> 00:26:53,367
[sighs]
465
00:27:04,833 --> 00:27:07,133
Porto! Porto!
466
00:27:10,867 --> 00:27:12,467
[wood smashing]
467
00:27:21,267 --> 00:27:23,200
narrator: There's no question
about it.
468
00:27:23,200 --> 00:27:27,133
Cockburn's is the easy winner
in fine style.
469
00:27:31,067 --> 00:27:33,000
But you may have noticed
that one name
470
00:27:33,000 --> 00:27:35,167
is missing from the fleet.
471
00:27:35,167 --> 00:27:37,300
Almost every significant
port house
472
00:27:37,300 --> 00:27:39,633
puts a boat into the contest
473
00:27:39,633 --> 00:27:42,000
but not Dirk Niepoort.
474
00:27:42,000 --> 00:27:44,767
In almost every way,
he thinks differently
475
00:27:44,767 --> 00:27:46,733
about the traditions of port.
476
00:27:46,733 --> 00:27:50,033
His pleasure is cooking
rather than sailing.
477
00:27:54,300 --> 00:27:57,000
Dirk likes to step back
from the hurly-burly
478
00:27:57,000 --> 00:28:00,167
and think about
the big picture.
479
00:28:00,167 --> 00:28:04,033
- One of the most important
things about our company,
480
00:28:04,033 --> 00:28:07,167
about port, is time.
481
00:28:07,167 --> 00:28:09,433
And time is something that
doesn't exist today.
482
00:28:09,433 --> 00:28:13,700
We are driving all
at 180 miles an hour.
483
00:28:13,700 --> 00:28:15,033
We're driving too fast.
484
00:28:15,033 --> 00:28:16,733
We're not seeing anything
around us.
485
00:28:16,733 --> 00:28:21,267
And this is something I would
like to try to learn
486
00:28:21,267 --> 00:28:23,867
to teach the
next generation too.
487
00:28:23,867 --> 00:28:26,333
Find time to slow down.
488
00:28:28,400 --> 00:28:30,733
narrator: Tonight,
Dirk has invited friends
489
00:28:30,733 --> 00:28:32,733
from the port trade to dinner:
490
00:28:32,733 --> 00:28:35,700
Peter, a senior member
of the Symington family;
491
00:28:35,700 --> 00:28:39,100
David Guimaraens, winemaker
of Taylor's;
492
00:28:39,100 --> 00:28:42,433
Manuel de Novaes Cabral
of the Wine Institute;
493
00:28:42,433 --> 00:28:46,633
and João Nicolau de Almeida
of Ramos Pinto.
494
00:28:46,633 --> 00:28:50,233
- I think what is typical
of my person
495
00:28:50,233 --> 00:28:53,067
is to plan things in 20 years.
496
00:28:53,067 --> 00:28:56,467
In our dreams,
we can do anything.
497
00:28:56,467 --> 00:28:59,100
The only problem is,
we have to--
498
00:28:59,100 --> 00:29:01,900
when we are back to reality,
we have to be with
499
00:29:01,900 --> 00:29:03,433
the feet on the ground.
500
00:29:03,433 --> 00:29:07,833
But dreaming is a very
healthy, very positive thing.
501
00:29:07,833 --> 00:29:10,667
[all speaking Portuguese]
502
00:29:18,700 --> 00:29:20,700
narrator: The big issue at
dinner was whether
503
00:29:20,700 --> 00:29:23,367
the port houses should stick
to making port,
504
00:29:23,367 --> 00:29:26,033
a higher-alcohol
after-dinner wine,
505
00:29:26,033 --> 00:29:30,700
or branch out into regular
table wines as well.
506
00:29:30,700 --> 00:29:34,367
- The table wine business
is a much bigger business.
507
00:29:34,367 --> 00:29:39,333
And in a way,
it's more competitive.
508
00:29:39,333 --> 00:29:41,833
But if you get
the formula right,
509
00:29:41,833 --> 00:29:43,767
that, to my mind,
is the way forward.
510
00:29:43,767 --> 00:29:48,300
And then if they can have
alongside the table wines
511
00:29:48,300 --> 00:29:50,700
a little bit of vintage port,
you know,
512
00:29:50,700 --> 00:29:53,200
that all adds to the package.
513
00:29:53,200 --> 00:29:56,867
- As Peter put it,
I think the future
514
00:29:56,867 --> 00:29:58,833
of the Douro is actually
quite brilliant
515
00:29:58,833 --> 00:30:03,100
if we stop fighting,
you know,
516
00:30:03,100 --> 00:30:06,200
this attitude of subsidizing
this and that.
517
00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:09,367
Because I have the feeling
that the table wine
518
00:30:09,367 --> 00:30:14,367
is going to subsidize the port,
which is ridiculous
519
00:30:14,367 --> 00:30:17,667
in your eyes,
but it looks like more and more
520
00:30:17,667 --> 00:30:19,733
it might happen like that.
521
00:30:19,733 --> 00:30:23,567
- Premium port has never been
as healthy as it is today.
522
00:30:23,567 --> 00:30:28,067
Douro table wines are
a fantastic innovation
523
00:30:28,067 --> 00:30:33,300
in the region,
which are great quality.
524
00:30:33,300 --> 00:30:39,933
But they live completely
subsidized by port.
525
00:30:39,933 --> 00:30:44,133
- I have two sons that have
around 33 years.
526
00:30:44,133 --> 00:30:49,133
And for them,
their ideal thing
527
00:30:49,133 --> 00:30:51,000
is to make a port wine.
528
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:53,433
The port wine for them
is the king,
529
00:30:53,433 --> 00:30:55,767
something that, for them,
is impossible
530
00:30:55,767 --> 00:31:02,700
unless you were born rich and
you have a big stock to make.
531
00:31:02,700 --> 00:31:05,933
But for them, they talk,
they talk, they talk about port,
532
00:31:05,933 --> 00:31:08,500
and they don't make port.
533
00:31:08,500 --> 00:31:11,767
narrator: It's one thing to sit
and talk in Porto,
534
00:31:11,767 --> 00:31:16,000
but changes are already
happening up in the Douro.
535
00:31:16,000 --> 00:31:19,000
[lithe guitar music]
536
00:31:19,000 --> 00:31:27,033
*
537
00:31:45,133 --> 00:31:48,700
Dirk Niepoort made the decision
to branch out from port
538
00:31:48,700 --> 00:31:53,267
into table wines 25 years ago.
539
00:31:53,267 --> 00:31:56,533
His headquarters and main
winery is at the brand-new
540
00:31:56,533 --> 00:31:57,667
Quinta de Napoles.
541
00:32:00,033 --> 00:32:02,067
There's no trace
of sentimentality
542
00:32:02,067 --> 00:32:04,600
or quaintness here.
543
00:32:04,600 --> 00:32:07,633
In this state-of-the-art
facility, Carlos,
544
00:32:07,633 --> 00:32:10,267
the chief winemaker,
helps Dirk create
545
00:32:10,267 --> 00:32:13,900
a dazzling array
of red and white table wines,
546
00:32:13,900 --> 00:32:15,967
a range of clever blends--
547
00:32:15,967 --> 00:32:21,167
some inexpensive
and some decidedly not.
548
00:32:21,167 --> 00:32:23,200
- It only started, really,
in California,
549
00:32:23,200 --> 00:32:27,067
where I started cleaning tanks
and working with wine.
550
00:32:27,067 --> 00:32:29,733
And someone asked me,
"Well, will you do wine
551
00:32:29,733 --> 00:32:31,067
when you get back?"
552
00:32:31,067 --> 00:32:33,200
And then I said, "Surely,
I will do port."
553
00:32:33,200 --> 00:32:34,700
And "What about wine?"
554
00:32:34,700 --> 00:32:36,900
And I said, "Yeah, I think
I will be making wine.
555
00:32:36,900 --> 00:32:40,100
"And then I think my first wine
is going to be a monster.
556
00:32:40,100 --> 00:32:43,100
"And in 25 years, I think--
I hope I will be
557
00:32:43,100 --> 00:32:44,867
making some fine wine."
558
00:32:44,867 --> 00:32:47,867
And it's quite interesting;
my first wine was a monster.
559
00:32:47,867 --> 00:32:50,867
[cheerful instrumental music]
560
00:32:50,867 --> 00:33:00,200
*
561
00:33:00,200 --> 00:33:02,200
narrator: For several years,
Dirk has been
562
00:33:02,200 --> 00:33:04,100
stirring up a revolution,
563
00:33:04,100 --> 00:33:06,700
encouraging new, young
winemakers of the region
564
00:33:06,700 --> 00:33:11,433
to try their hand
at Douro table wines first.
565
00:33:11,433 --> 00:33:15,667
And from time to time,
they need to taste and compare.
566
00:33:15,667 --> 00:33:18,467
- There are no two wines
the same in the Douro.
567
00:33:18,467 --> 00:33:21,400
I could have the wine
from my neighbor next door,
568
00:33:21,400 --> 00:33:23,167
would never be the same
as my wine,
569
00:33:23,167 --> 00:33:27,200
even if we will would be using
the same grape variety.
570
00:33:27,200 --> 00:33:30,300
narrator: It simply costs
too much for a young winemaker
571
00:33:30,300 --> 00:33:32,533
to break into the port-making
world,
572
00:33:32,533 --> 00:33:34,600
because you can't even
make a start
573
00:33:34,600 --> 00:33:38,733
without owning vast quantities
of old port in barrel.
574
00:33:38,733 --> 00:33:42,733
So a rainbow of highly
original table wines,
575
00:33:42,733 --> 00:33:44,400
that's the solution.
576
00:33:44,400 --> 00:33:52,233
*
577
00:33:57,667 --> 00:34:01,367
- We have vineyards with over
30 different grape varieties,
578
00:34:01,367 --> 00:34:04,067
all mixed, and this is unique.
579
00:34:07,033 --> 00:34:10,800
- You cannot imagine
the quantity of varieties
580
00:34:10,800 --> 00:34:12,933
that we found on this region.
581
00:34:12,933 --> 00:34:15,667
You go to one vineyard,
and it's difficult
582
00:34:15,667 --> 00:34:20,900
to understand sometimes
what is the variety
583
00:34:20,900 --> 00:34:26,233
that are planted,
because it's very old,
584
00:34:26,233 --> 00:34:28,533
and you don't know.
585
00:34:28,533 --> 00:34:31,300
- I think that the best wines
of the Douro
586
00:34:31,300 --> 00:34:34,000
are made with a mess.
587
00:34:34,000 --> 00:34:36,067
Maybe this is not
very commercial
588
00:34:36,067 --> 00:34:40,333
or makes much commercial sense,
but it does make
589
00:34:40,333 --> 00:34:45,400
passion sense in which I love
being surprised every year.
590
00:34:50,233 --> 00:34:53,400
- The big change in the Douro
valley was really the--
591
00:34:53,400 --> 00:34:57,633
starting to look to the vineyard
on a different way,
592
00:34:57,633 --> 00:34:59,600
thinking that we could do port.
593
00:34:59,600 --> 00:35:02,100
Port is a wonderful tradition,
and it's something
594
00:35:02,100 --> 00:35:03,867
so, so important for us.
595
00:35:03,867 --> 00:35:06,100
But there's other things
that we can do.
596
00:35:06,100 --> 00:35:08,233
Because even within
the vineyards,
597
00:35:08,233 --> 00:35:10,967
there's only a small part
that we can use to make port.
598
00:35:10,967 --> 00:35:12,533
And the other part,
nobody was paying
599
00:35:12,533 --> 00:35:14,067
much attention to it.
600
00:35:14,067 --> 00:35:16,133
And we're talking about
exactly the same vineyards,
601
00:35:16,133 --> 00:35:17,700
the same grapes.
602
00:35:17,700 --> 00:35:20,000
So the quality potential,
the character was there.
603
00:35:23,367 --> 00:35:26,667
- Table wine is a challenge,
'cause there was nothing.
604
00:35:26,667 --> 00:35:30,633
And now we're trying
to position it somewhere.
605
00:35:30,633 --> 00:35:34,567
- Not everybody knows it or
not everybody realizes it,
606
00:35:34,567 --> 00:35:38,500
but we're talking, indeed,
about one of the best
607
00:35:38,500 --> 00:35:42,767
wine regions in the world,
no doubt at all.
608
00:35:53,000 --> 00:35:56,767
narrator: They say that the
Douro has nine months of winter
609
00:35:56,767 --> 00:35:59,300
and then three months of hell,
610
00:35:59,300 --> 00:36:03,033
the blistering heat
before harvest.
611
00:36:03,033 --> 00:36:08,367
Growing grapes in the Douro
is very hard work.
612
00:36:08,367 --> 00:36:12,667
Carlos, Dirk's winemaker,
races around the hillside vines
613
00:36:12,667 --> 00:36:15,733
checking after a summer shower,
looking for rot.
614
00:36:21,000 --> 00:36:23,467
This is a real worry.
615
00:36:23,467 --> 00:36:26,433
Farmers in the Douro
face a lot of risk.
616
00:36:26,433 --> 00:36:29,167
Most of them have only
tiny parcels of land,
617
00:36:29,167 --> 00:36:32,533
and their livelihoods depend
on the big port houses
618
00:36:32,533 --> 00:36:34,400
buying their grapes.
619
00:36:34,400 --> 00:36:37,300
One bit of bad luck,
and they're in real trouble.
620
00:36:41,867 --> 00:36:45,167
The problem is that producing
grapes in the Douro
621
00:36:45,167 --> 00:36:50,067
requires constant,
expensive work.
622
00:36:50,067 --> 00:36:52,167
At Taylor's
Quinta de Vargellas,
623
00:36:52,167 --> 00:36:55,167
machines can help,
but keeping the land
624
00:36:55,167 --> 00:36:57,400
from being washed away
down the steep slopes
625
00:36:57,400 --> 00:37:01,000
requires backbreaking effort,
much of it by hand.
626
00:37:03,533 --> 00:37:07,400
Taylor's owns more than
100 miles of these walls,
627
00:37:07,400 --> 00:37:10,867
and 1/3 of them need some work.
628
00:37:10,867 --> 00:37:12,200
- The risk at the moment
in the Douro
629
00:37:12,200 --> 00:37:14,467
is a very, very simple risk,
and that is that
630
00:37:14,467 --> 00:37:18,033
the economics of farming
in the Douro,
631
00:37:18,033 --> 00:37:20,067
which is one of the most
expensive wine regions
632
00:37:20,067 --> 00:37:21,633
in the world to farm,
633
00:37:21,633 --> 00:37:27,000
require the price of grapes
fundamentally to go up
634
00:37:27,000 --> 00:37:28,400
for most farmers.
635
00:37:28,400 --> 00:37:31,833
When a farmer sells grapes
to a port producer
636
00:37:31,833 --> 00:37:34,400
with a license,
he makes a profit.
637
00:37:34,400 --> 00:37:36,933
When the farmer sells
that same bunch of grapes
638
00:37:36,933 --> 00:37:39,867
to a table wine producer,
he makes a loss.
639
00:37:39,867 --> 00:37:41,467
Quality port is where
the future is.
640
00:37:41,467 --> 00:37:44,367
That adjustment means that
this is an industry
641
00:37:44,367 --> 00:37:47,967
which has got to move
from thinking about volume first
642
00:37:47,967 --> 00:37:49,467
and value second
643
00:37:49,467 --> 00:37:53,233
to thinking about value first
and volume second.
644
00:37:53,233 --> 00:37:56,867
And that adjustment will mean
that there will, in future,
645
00:37:56,867 --> 00:37:58,267
be less port made.
646
00:37:58,267 --> 00:38:01,467
It probably means that we
need to reconsider
647
00:38:01,467 --> 00:38:03,733
the size of the Douro,
certainly reconsider
648
00:38:03,733 --> 00:38:06,133
whether we should pull up
some of the smaller vineyards,
649
00:38:06,133 --> 00:38:10,400
and how that all should be
managed.
650
00:38:10,400 --> 00:38:13,100
narrator: Not everyone agrees
with this solution.
651
00:38:13,100 --> 00:38:15,733
But there's no doubt that
the future of the Douro
652
00:38:15,733 --> 00:38:18,233
is at stake.
653
00:38:18,233 --> 00:38:21,200
For his part,
Adrian relishes a challenge.
654
00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:24,233
And today he is promoting
the port trade
655
00:38:24,233 --> 00:38:29,167
and raising money for charity
in a bicycle race.
656
00:38:29,167 --> 00:38:32,367
[lively orchestral music]
657
00:38:32,367 --> 00:38:34,900
*
658
00:38:34,900 --> 00:38:36,733
narrator: Adrian and his
fellow members
659
00:38:36,733 --> 00:38:38,300
of the wine trade from London
660
00:38:38,300 --> 00:38:41,667
have already cycled four days
to get here.
661
00:38:41,667 --> 00:38:47,600
Now he will lead them
on their last lap into Porto.
662
00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:49,267
- Good luck, chaps!
663
00:38:49,267 --> 00:38:57,100
*
664
00:39:12,700 --> 00:39:14,200
- No pain, no gain.
665
00:39:17,333 --> 00:39:20,167
narrator: Paul Symington
also loves to get out
666
00:39:20,167 --> 00:39:22,467
into the Douro in the summer.
667
00:39:22,467 --> 00:39:25,100
He's going dirt-biking
with a great friend,
668
00:39:25,100 --> 00:39:26,367
the local priest.
669
00:39:30,233 --> 00:39:32,600
It was Father Antonio
who taught Paul
670
00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:35,567
how to ride a dirt bike
in the first place.
671
00:39:35,567 --> 00:39:39,733
[both speaking Portuguese]
672
00:39:39,733 --> 00:39:42,367
- When I'm on my motorbike
with Father Antonio,
673
00:39:42,367 --> 00:39:45,567
you see some astonishing things,
and you can go on ancient tracks
674
00:39:45,567 --> 00:39:48,867
which people haven't
been down for years.
675
00:39:48,867 --> 00:39:50,567
He's a fantastic man.
I like him.
676
00:39:50,567 --> 00:39:53,000
If there were more priests
like him in the Catholic church,
677
00:39:53,000 --> 00:39:56,933
there'd be a lot more
people going to church.
678
00:39:56,933 --> 00:39:58,900
narrator: They start
at Paul's house,
679
00:39:58,900 --> 00:40:01,067
up in the hills near
Provesende,
680
00:40:01,067 --> 00:40:03,633
and then they make for
the highest peak
681
00:40:03,633 --> 00:40:05,200
in the surrounding area.
682
00:40:05,200 --> 00:40:08,400
[lively orchestral music]
683
00:40:08,400 --> 00:40:16,233
*
684
00:40:43,867 --> 00:40:47,267
- The Douro's
a very special place.
685
00:40:47,267 --> 00:40:49,633
The largest area of mountain
vineyard on Earth
686
00:40:49,633 --> 00:40:51,367
is in the Douro.
687
00:40:51,367 --> 00:40:53,667
There's nowhere on Earth
with so much mountain vineyard.
688
00:40:56,700 --> 00:40:59,867
narrator: It's this magical,
mountainous terrain
689
00:40:59,867 --> 00:41:02,933
that makes the Douro
so spectacular
690
00:41:02,933 --> 00:41:06,533
but also so difficult
to make money in.
691
00:41:06,533 --> 00:41:09,300
The grapes are hugely expensive
to grow,
692
00:41:09,300 --> 00:41:13,333
but only a few of the wines
sell for premium prices.
693
00:41:15,800 --> 00:41:19,333
Perhaps the answer lies
in more vigorous marketing
694
00:41:19,333 --> 00:41:20,667
of port.
695
00:41:20,667 --> 00:41:24,133
This the Quinta do Bom Retiro,
696
00:41:24,133 --> 00:41:27,100
the heart of the Ramos Pinto
operation.
697
00:41:27,100 --> 00:41:30,833
The chief winemaker,
João Nicolau de Almeida,
698
00:41:30,833 --> 00:41:33,567
and Jorge Rosas,
one of the family,
699
00:41:33,567 --> 00:41:37,000
are in charge of
international sales.
700
00:42:51,200 --> 00:42:54,233
narrator: Back in Porto,
the summer days bring out
701
00:42:54,233 --> 00:42:56,733
the most British side
of the Brits.
702
00:43:00,567 --> 00:43:04,000
Porto is one of the last
places in continental Europe
703
00:43:04,000 --> 00:43:08,267
which still sports
a full-time cricket club.
704
00:43:08,267 --> 00:43:10,500
The game is played here
according to
705
00:43:10,500 --> 00:43:13,800
the strictest rules.
706
00:43:13,800 --> 00:43:14,700
- Yes!
707
00:43:17,500 --> 00:43:19,433
- Yes!
708
00:43:19,433 --> 00:43:21,200
[applause]
709
00:43:21,200 --> 00:43:23,267
narrator: Every year,
the British port makers
710
00:43:23,267 --> 00:43:26,900
challenge their clients, the
wine merchants of London,
711
00:43:26,900 --> 00:43:30,033
to a traditional one-day match.
712
00:43:30,033 --> 00:43:33,233
[light orchestral music]
713
00:43:33,233 --> 00:43:37,633
*
714
00:43:37,633 --> 00:43:39,400
- Oh, yes!
715
00:43:46,500 --> 00:43:48,767
narrator: There are still
enough British families
716
00:43:48,767 --> 00:43:54,000
here in Porto from which
to find a port maker's eleven,
717
00:43:54,000 --> 00:43:59,300
complete with backup family
to provide tea.
718
00:43:59,300 --> 00:44:02,800
They almost all speak
very good Portuguese now.
719
00:44:02,800 --> 00:44:04,467
Many were born here.
720
00:44:04,467 --> 00:44:06,967
But the atmosphere is just
as it would have been
721
00:44:06,967 --> 00:44:10,200
100 or more years ago
in an English city
722
00:44:10,200 --> 00:44:12,633
or an outpost of the
British Empire.
723
00:44:16,567 --> 00:44:19,400
[waves crashing]
724
00:44:21,400 --> 00:44:25,000
As midsummer approaches,
Porto bursts out
725
00:44:25,000 --> 00:44:30,267
into a dazzle of parties
and special events.
726
00:44:30,267 --> 00:44:33,667
The brotherhood of port makers
is holding a special ceremony
727
00:44:33,667 --> 00:44:38,100
by the seaside to celebrate
the 2011 vintage.
728
00:44:40,267 --> 00:44:43,600
Each port house makes its own
decision every year--
729
00:44:43,600 --> 00:44:47,733
is their port good enough
to stand alone, unblended?
730
00:44:47,733 --> 00:44:50,800
If so and if the Port Wine
Institute agrees,
731
00:44:50,800 --> 00:44:55,233
then a vintage is declared,
and everyone's happy.
732
00:44:55,233 --> 00:44:58,033
- You know,
Porto is a small city.
733
00:44:58,033 --> 00:44:59,400
And when you say something,
734
00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:01,600
everybody knows immediately
everything.
735
00:45:01,600 --> 00:45:03,800
So there is a lot of gossip.
736
00:45:03,800 --> 00:45:08,667
And as someone said yesterday,
if suddenly there would be
737
00:45:08,667 --> 00:45:13,300
a bomb here, the port trade
would disappear within seconds.
738
00:45:13,300 --> 00:45:15,433
It's a bit strange and funny.
739
00:45:18,700 --> 00:45:21,133
narrator: Whether pouring
a sample bottle
740
00:45:21,133 --> 00:45:24,367
from each port house
into a giant loving cup
741
00:45:24,367 --> 00:45:26,633
actually creates a drink
worth having
742
00:45:26,633 --> 00:45:28,633
must remain open to doubt.
743
00:45:41,200 --> 00:45:44,533
On the Friday, Saturday,
and Sunday of midsummer,
744
00:45:44,533 --> 00:45:47,033
the city celebrates
the festival
745
00:45:47,033 --> 00:45:49,933
of St. John the Baptist.
746
00:45:49,933 --> 00:45:52,933
[light orchestral music]
747
00:45:52,933 --> 00:46:00,500
*
748
00:46:00,500 --> 00:46:06,600
Each district will have fun
in its own particular way--
749
00:46:06,600 --> 00:46:09,367
72 hours of fun.
750
00:46:09,367 --> 00:46:17,200
*
751
00:46:19,200 --> 00:46:22,633
In the heart of the city,
at the historic stock exchange,
752
00:46:22,633 --> 00:46:24,200
the brotherhood of port makers
753
00:46:24,200 --> 00:46:28,667
has something more serious
in store.
754
00:46:28,667 --> 00:46:31,733
Arcane ceremonies seem to have
a special appeal
755
00:46:31,733 --> 00:46:33,400
to European winemakers.
756
00:46:36,633 --> 00:46:39,533
Carefully selected new members
will be admitted
757
00:46:39,533 --> 00:46:41,133
to the brotherhood.
758
00:46:41,133 --> 00:46:44,267
This time, one of them
is Martine Saunier.
759
00:46:51,233 --> 00:46:55,133
It's an honor not bestowed
on too many people.
760
00:46:55,133 --> 00:46:56,833
But here in the Douro,
761
00:46:56,833 --> 00:47:00,067
the world's oldest delineated
wine appellation,
762
00:47:00,067 --> 00:47:03,333
traditions have a way
of building up.
763
00:47:03,333 --> 00:47:06,167
[applause]
764
00:47:22,367 --> 00:47:25,233
Every part of Porto's
colorful history
765
00:47:25,233 --> 00:47:30,433
is pressed into service
on St. John's weekend--
766
00:47:30,433 --> 00:47:33,900
the firemen's band,
the elderly streetcars,
767
00:47:33,900 --> 00:47:36,967
and parties everywhere,
day after day.
768
00:47:36,967 --> 00:47:45,000
*
769
00:47:52,967 --> 00:47:55,833
It all leads up
to a grand climax
770
00:47:55,833 --> 00:47:58,167
on the final Sunday night.
771
00:48:06,533 --> 00:48:09,367
Many people from Lisbon,
Portugal's capital
772
00:48:09,367 --> 00:48:13,633
to the south, make fun of
Porto as a gray merchant city
773
00:48:13,633 --> 00:48:15,433
which wouldn't know how
to have fun if you
774
00:48:15,433 --> 00:48:18,100
banged it on the head
with a plastic hammer.
775
00:48:18,100 --> 00:48:23,033
Well, this is Porto's weekend
to prove them wrong.
776
00:48:25,700 --> 00:48:28,700
[lively orchestral music]
777
00:48:28,700 --> 00:48:31,867
*
778
00:48:31,867 --> 00:48:34,867
[fireworks crackling,
booming]
779
00:48:34,867 --> 00:48:42,700
*
780
00:48:50,100 --> 00:48:51,733
Back in Roman times,
781
00:48:51,733 --> 00:48:56,033
they called this midsummer
festival "Vestalia."
782
00:48:56,033 --> 00:48:58,533
2,000 years later,
the people of Porto
783
00:48:58,533 --> 00:49:01,533
still haven't lost the knack
of having fun.
784
00:49:01,533 --> 00:49:09,367
*
785
00:49:32,967 --> 00:49:35,900
The River Douro stretches
all the way east
786
00:49:35,900 --> 00:49:38,367
to the Spanish border
and beyond.
787
00:49:43,567 --> 00:49:47,600
In these hot, high hills,
the grapes ripen early.
788
00:49:49,567 --> 00:49:51,800
It's a very different
feeling up here,
789
00:49:51,800 --> 00:49:53,567
just a few miles from Spain.
790
00:49:59,500 --> 00:50:05,533
These are Ramos Pinto vineyards
as far as the eye can see.
791
00:50:05,533 --> 00:50:12,000
Humans have lived up here
for more than 500 centuries.
792
00:50:12,000 --> 00:50:14,400
Martine visited one
Paleolithic site
793
00:50:14,400 --> 00:50:18,467
in the Côa Valley
with a local archeologist.
794
00:50:18,467 --> 00:50:20,733
You can still make out
sketches and drawings
795
00:50:20,733 --> 00:50:24,700
on the tough granite rocks
from 50,000 years ago.
796
00:50:41,700 --> 00:50:44,433
- Oh, yeah.
Right, right, right.
797
00:50:44,433 --> 00:50:45,333
Yeah.
798
00:50:53,233 --> 00:50:55,533
narrator: People have been
living up here,
799
00:50:55,533 --> 00:50:58,933
picking fruit,
domesticating animals,
800
00:50:58,933 --> 00:51:02,167
developing agriculture
ever since.
801
00:51:06,100 --> 00:51:09,833
Down at Bom Retiro,
Ramos Pinto are preparing
802
00:51:09,833 --> 00:51:12,233
for the harvest of 2013.
803
00:51:12,233 --> 00:51:16,267
These are some of João's
best vines.
804
00:52:14,533 --> 00:52:16,933
narrator: It's the same story
the world over.
805
00:52:16,933 --> 00:52:21,067
If you want to make great wine,
you have to be hands-on.
806
00:52:24,933 --> 00:52:28,867
João may be a living legend
as a creator of fabulous wines,
807
00:52:28,867 --> 00:52:32,633
but he's out there soon after
dawn with the pickers,
808
00:52:32,633 --> 00:52:36,233
seeing what they're getting,
already imagining his blends,
809
00:52:36,233 --> 00:52:38,233
favoring one terrace
over another
810
00:52:38,233 --> 00:52:40,067
in the order of picking,
811
00:52:40,067 --> 00:52:44,867
because you can never trust
the weather.
812
00:52:44,867 --> 00:52:48,267
[bell chiming]
813
00:52:48,267 --> 00:52:51,967
At the Morgadio da Calcada,
many of the old vines
814
00:52:51,967 --> 00:52:54,233
are almost ready.
815
00:52:54,233 --> 00:52:57,767
- So what is the state
of the grapes right now?
816
00:53:00,167 --> 00:53:02,667
- Well, basically,
we have the whites,
817
00:53:02,667 --> 00:53:04,700
which are getting ripe.
818
00:53:04,700 --> 00:53:06,533
But the reds are not ripe yet.
819
00:53:06,533 --> 00:53:09,000
And I wanted to do
a little experiment
820
00:53:09,000 --> 00:53:11,967
of doing them together.
821
00:53:11,967 --> 00:53:15,100
So we are waiting
a little bit more for the reds.
822
00:53:15,100 --> 00:53:18,500
But if you look at the whites,
it looks really good.
823
00:53:18,500 --> 00:53:19,833
- Yeah.
824
00:53:19,833 --> 00:53:21,233
- The color's fantastic,
isn't it?
825
00:53:21,233 --> 00:53:23,333
- And so we're waiting
another few days.
826
00:53:23,333 --> 00:53:26,100
Probably, we'll start
picking on Monday.
827
00:53:26,100 --> 00:53:28,467
- This vineyard?
- This vineyard, yep.
828
00:53:28,467 --> 00:53:32,167
- I heard that there is
rain in the forecast
829
00:53:32,167 --> 00:53:33,867
in the next week.
830
00:53:33,867 --> 00:53:35,133
- Yes, there is.
831
00:53:35,133 --> 00:53:36,867
- So that's very scary,
832
00:53:36,867 --> 00:53:39,500
because if it rains
and you got
833
00:53:39,500 --> 00:53:42,267
warm temperature again,
it's going to have mildew.
834
00:53:42,267 --> 00:53:45,633
- It could rot them out
very, very fast, yeah.
835
00:53:45,633 --> 00:53:49,767
But we expect it to be here
cooler, because we are
836
00:53:49,767 --> 00:53:51,100
at the high elevations.
837
00:53:51,100 --> 00:53:54,100
So it's a risky thing, yep.
838
00:53:54,100 --> 00:53:56,700
- But is always,
for every winemaker,
839
00:53:56,700 --> 00:53:58,400
to decide the perfect day.
840
00:53:58,400 --> 00:54:01,700
- We will have to wait
and see what happens.
841
00:54:04,067 --> 00:54:06,500
narrator: Upriver,
at the Quinta dos Malvedos,
842
00:54:06,500 --> 00:54:10,167
the British Union Jack
flies side by side
843
00:54:10,167 --> 00:54:13,000
with the Portuguese flag.
844
00:54:13,000 --> 00:54:15,333
This is Symington territory.
845
00:54:17,233 --> 00:54:20,000
Time seems to stand still here.
846
00:54:20,000 --> 00:54:23,700
Local villagers
do all the picking.
847
00:54:23,700 --> 00:54:26,167
These grapes will go into
one of the Symingtons'
848
00:54:26,167 --> 00:54:28,633
very best brands, Graham's.
849
00:54:33,100 --> 00:54:36,000
In charge of brand development
and marketing
850
00:54:36,000 --> 00:54:38,333
is Rupert Symington.
851
00:54:38,333 --> 00:54:40,167
There seems to be a member
of the family
852
00:54:40,167 --> 00:54:43,400
for every significant job
in the company.
853
00:54:43,400 --> 00:54:46,033
- Well, my family,
in the four generations
854
00:54:46,033 --> 00:54:48,200
that we've been here,
each generation
855
00:54:48,200 --> 00:54:49,667
has added a brand.
856
00:54:49,667 --> 00:54:52,200
My father and his cousins
brought Graham's,
857
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:54,267
which is our sort of
flagship brand today.
858
00:54:54,267 --> 00:54:56,133
Graham's often, you know,
used to fetch
859
00:54:56,133 --> 00:54:58,200
the highest prices
for vintage ports.
860
00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:01,133
So a very sort of
prestigious brand.
861
00:55:01,133 --> 00:55:04,467
Personality is a little bit
richer, more opulent.
862
00:55:04,467 --> 00:55:06,333
I like to describe it
as "old money"
863
00:55:06,333 --> 00:55:09,100
as opposed to, you know,
the nouveau riche,
864
00:55:09,100 --> 00:55:11,967
which would be another port,
which we won't mention.
865
00:55:11,967 --> 00:55:15,600
And then my generation
has become the owner
866
00:55:15,600 --> 00:55:18,100
of the famous Cockburn's brand,
which, when I was a kid,
867
00:55:18,100 --> 00:55:19,933
was the--they were
the big guys in town
868
00:55:19,933 --> 00:55:22,100
with the chauffeur-driven cars.
869
00:55:22,100 --> 00:55:24,100
But we're very excited
to kind of define
870
00:55:24,100 --> 00:55:26,067
what we feel about Cockburn's.
871
00:55:31,067 --> 00:55:32,767
My family, I mean,
can be perceived
872
00:55:32,767 --> 00:55:35,667
as being this great juggernaut,
swallowing up
873
00:55:35,667 --> 00:55:37,333
everything in its path.
874
00:55:37,333 --> 00:55:39,433
Paul, Johnny, and I,
we're all crazy.
875
00:55:39,433 --> 00:55:42,233
We all recycle any profit
we make out the business
876
00:55:42,233 --> 00:55:43,800
into more vineyards,
more business,
877
00:55:43,800 --> 00:55:46,067
you know, because we love it,
not because we just want
878
00:55:46,067 --> 00:55:47,500
to create an empire.
879
00:55:47,500 --> 00:55:50,267
It's a bit of a sort of
family responsibility.
880
00:55:50,267 --> 00:55:51,867
I was taught by my father
that this is
881
00:55:51,867 --> 00:55:53,167
a good business to be in.
882
00:55:53,167 --> 00:55:55,733
This is what I do.
883
00:55:55,733 --> 00:55:58,533
narrator: There are Symingtons
involved in every part
884
00:55:58,533 --> 00:56:00,567
of the operation.
885
00:56:00,567 --> 00:56:04,167
Charles is the company's
chief winemaker.
886
00:56:04,167 --> 00:56:07,633
The stress of harvest
weighs heaviest on him.
887
00:56:07,633 --> 00:56:10,533
- We're off to a late start,
probably ten days later
888
00:56:10,533 --> 00:56:12,833
than would be usual,
due to the conditions
889
00:56:12,833 --> 00:56:14,100
we've had earlier this year.
890
00:56:14,100 --> 00:56:15,633
We've had a late start.
891
00:56:15,633 --> 00:56:19,600
And what has been coming in
up until now
892
00:56:19,600 --> 00:56:21,000
is in fantastic condition.
893
00:56:21,000 --> 00:56:23,333
Ripening has been really
fantastic.
894
00:56:23,333 --> 00:56:25,533
Although it's been slow,
it's been
895
00:56:25,533 --> 00:56:26,967
exceptionally promising.
896
00:56:26,967 --> 00:56:29,567
Unfortunately,
it does look like,
897
00:56:29,567 --> 00:56:32,167
in the next couple of days,
the weather's gonna change,
898
00:56:32,167 --> 00:56:35,167
which could spoil what I felt
was going to be
899
00:56:35,167 --> 00:56:36,533
a first-class vintage.
900
00:56:36,533 --> 00:56:37,900
So it's in the balance,
901
00:56:37,900 --> 00:56:39,400
and we'll have to see
what comes,
902
00:56:39,400 --> 00:56:42,567
but it's certainly not
a comfortable position
903
00:56:42,567 --> 00:56:44,000
at this stage.
904
00:56:46,100 --> 00:56:48,167
narrator: Of course,
when the sun's out
905
00:56:48,167 --> 00:56:51,033
and it's a beautiful day,
the Douro can seem
906
00:56:51,033 --> 00:56:54,233
like a fairytale land
full of quaint customs
907
00:56:54,233 --> 00:56:55,700
and celebrations.
908
00:56:58,233 --> 00:57:01,633
[upbeat traditional music]
909
00:57:01,633 --> 00:57:05,300
Everyone turns out to bring in
the fruit of the land.
910
00:57:05,300 --> 00:57:08,200
It becomes clear how much
of a family enterprise
911
00:57:08,200 --> 00:57:11,833
the making of good
quality port still is.
912
00:57:11,833 --> 00:57:13,300
The old families
913
00:57:13,300 --> 00:57:15,067
and particularly
the old British families
914
00:57:15,067 --> 00:57:16,367
have gone to great lengths
915
00:57:16,367 --> 00:57:18,467
to keep the old traditions
going.
916
00:57:18,467 --> 00:57:26,300
*
917
00:57:29,233 --> 00:57:32,400
You could call it paternalism,
but it's the only way
918
00:57:32,400 --> 00:57:35,000
that these remote
winemaking outposts
919
00:57:35,000 --> 00:57:37,167
can survive as communities.
920
00:57:39,433 --> 00:57:42,533
The pickers are all from
small villages nearby.
921
00:57:42,533 --> 00:57:44,967
This is the best employment
they'll get
922
00:57:44,967 --> 00:57:46,700
in the entire year.
923
00:58:26,700 --> 00:58:29,700
[lively orchestral music]
924
00:58:29,700 --> 00:58:33,000
*
925
00:58:33,000 --> 00:58:34,700
narrator: For the older
generation, however,
926
00:58:34,700 --> 00:58:38,067
harvest is as much celebration
as hard work.
927
00:58:40,033 --> 00:58:42,733
Alistair and Gillyanne
are Adrian Bridge's
928
00:58:42,733 --> 00:58:44,567
father- and mother-in-law.
929
00:58:46,900 --> 00:58:54,733
*
930
00:59:00,400 --> 00:59:04,000
- This plaque here commemorates
the 11 years they took
931
00:59:04,000 --> 00:59:06,933
to open this up
by making the flow of water
932
00:59:06,933 --> 00:59:09,667
possible for a boat to go up
and cutting a ledge
933
00:59:09,667 --> 00:59:10,833
the whole way up.
934
00:59:10,833 --> 00:59:13,067
It was impassable
for all history,
935
00:59:13,067 --> 00:59:16,967
and then, in 1791,
therefore, this was passable.
936
00:59:16,967 --> 00:59:19,300
And it opened up
the whole of that area.
937
00:59:19,300 --> 00:59:21,300
And that was all planted up.
938
00:59:21,300 --> 00:59:23,400
And it was quite something.
939
00:59:23,400 --> 00:59:27,000
Right, back to Vargellas
for a glass of port.
940
00:59:27,000 --> 00:59:29,633
Are you ready?
Hold on.
941
00:59:29,633 --> 00:59:37,467
*
942
00:59:42,633 --> 00:59:46,500
Right, we're gonna have
a glass of white port and tonic.
943
00:59:46,500 --> 00:59:47,500
- Wonderful.
944
00:59:47,500 --> 00:59:49,100
- White port and tonic.
945
00:59:49,100 --> 00:59:51,267
It's a lovely drink
for a hot day,
946
00:59:51,267 --> 00:59:53,567
a hot day in particular.
947
00:59:53,567 --> 00:59:55,233
There we are.
948
00:59:55,233 --> 00:59:58,633
And as we are safely back,
we should raise our glasses
949
00:59:58,633 --> 01:00:04,767
to our "Tintonica," Martine,
who's safely back to Vargellas.
950
01:00:04,767 --> 01:00:07,633
- Wonderful, delicious.
951
01:00:07,633 --> 01:00:08,733
Thank you for the tour.
952
01:00:11,433 --> 01:00:14,200
narrator: Back at the house,
Adrian returns
953
01:00:14,200 --> 01:00:15,967
for cocktail hour,
954
01:00:15,967 --> 01:00:20,267
though it appears the weather
has taken a turn for the worse.
955
01:00:20,267 --> 01:00:24,633
- We always stayed at Pinhão,
when we built the house.
956
01:00:24,633 --> 01:00:26,667
- And then you developed the
house, which is where
957
01:00:26,667 --> 01:00:29,067
we really would like to go to,
'cause it's pouring rain.
958
01:00:29,067 --> 01:00:30,933
- Very good, let's go
into the house,
959
01:00:30,933 --> 01:00:32,400
out of the pouring rain.
960
01:00:35,200 --> 01:00:37,667
narrator: When it rains,
Adrian has plenty
961
01:00:37,667 --> 01:00:40,800
of party tricks up his sleeve
to amuse the visitors
962
01:00:40,800 --> 01:00:42,367
till dinner's ready.
963
01:00:42,367 --> 01:00:45,000
- What we're going to do
is open a bottle
964
01:00:45,000 --> 01:00:47,167
of vintage port, but instead of
using a corkscrew,
965
01:00:47,167 --> 01:00:49,167
I'm gonna show you
another way to do it,
966
01:00:49,167 --> 01:00:53,333
which involves some port tongs,
nice red-hot port tongs.
967
01:00:53,333 --> 01:00:56,400
We put these
round the bottle here.
968
01:00:56,400 --> 01:01:00,100
But what I'm trying to do here
is to heat up the glass
969
01:01:00,100 --> 01:01:04,067
just below the cork
but above the level of the wine.
970
01:01:04,067 --> 01:01:06,767
So then we take that off.
All right, put that down.
971
01:01:06,767 --> 01:01:10,033
And then what I need is just
some cold water, like this.
972
01:01:10,033 --> 01:01:11,267
And then--
973
01:01:11,267 --> 01:01:12,667
[glass clinks
and people exclaim]
974
01:01:12,667 --> 01:01:14,100
There we have it.
975
01:01:14,100 --> 01:01:16,567
- My goodness.
- Pops off and breaks cleanly.
976
01:01:16,567 --> 01:01:21,267
So we can then pour
straight from the glass.
977
01:01:21,267 --> 01:01:24,133
- But tell me, how did
the whole thing start and why?
978
01:01:24,133 --> 01:01:25,867
- Well, I think, you know,
the reason for it
979
01:01:25,867 --> 01:01:29,300
is that sometimes,
if the cork is old
980
01:01:29,300 --> 01:01:31,833
and can't be pulled out,
then this is a way
981
01:01:31,833 --> 01:01:33,400
to cleanly open it.
982
01:01:33,400 --> 01:01:35,200
And, in fact, it's such
a clean break
983
01:01:35,200 --> 01:01:37,433
that you can pop that back on,
984
01:01:37,433 --> 01:01:39,067
and you wouldn't even
notice a thing.
985
01:01:39,067 --> 01:01:40,300
But anyway,
a glass of vintage.
986
01:01:40,300 --> 01:01:42,167
Cheers.
- What is it, '87?
987
01:01:42,167 --> 01:01:44,800
- This is the Vargellas '87,
Taylor's Vargellas '87.
988
01:01:44,800 --> 01:01:46,200
- Wonderful, thank you.
989
01:01:50,167 --> 01:01:52,967
narrator: That evening,
the rain seemed to have
990
01:01:52,967 --> 01:01:54,633
settled in for good.
991
01:01:56,933 --> 01:01:58,600
It's not an easy time
992
01:01:58,600 --> 01:02:02,467
for Taylor's chief winemaker,
David Guimaraens.
993
01:02:02,467 --> 01:02:04,367
- Well, it's the 30th of
September,
994
01:02:04,367 --> 01:02:07,567
and we've been in harvest now
since the 10th,
995
01:02:07,567 --> 01:02:10,767
initially with the fruit
coming from the Upper Douro
996
01:02:10,767 --> 01:02:15,000
and gradually working our way
down the River Douro.
997
01:02:15,000 --> 01:02:17,300
And we've got
a challenging year.
998
01:02:17,300 --> 01:02:20,967
Last Friday,
the weather broke, badly.
999
01:02:20,967 --> 01:02:23,100
And that has changed
the harvest,
1000
01:02:23,100 --> 01:02:25,933
has changed the harvest
completely.
1001
01:02:25,933 --> 01:02:27,367
The vines are thirsty.
1002
01:02:27,367 --> 01:02:30,500
And they're gonna
suck in this water.
1003
01:02:30,500 --> 01:02:31,933
The berry's gonna swell.
1004
01:02:31,933 --> 01:02:34,100
So the first few days
is dilution.
1005
01:02:34,100 --> 01:02:36,067
Next, it will burst,
1006
01:02:36,067 --> 01:02:39,567
and then you get rot coming in.
1007
01:02:39,567 --> 01:02:41,300
narrator: Some of
the harvested grapes
1008
01:02:41,300 --> 01:02:44,400
are already
in the granite lagars.
1009
01:02:44,400 --> 01:02:48,333
After treading, they're
being punched down.
1010
01:02:48,333 --> 01:02:50,500
- On Friday night,
I was feeling relieved
1011
01:02:50,500 --> 01:02:54,033
that I got 80%
of my top fruit in.
1012
01:02:54,033 --> 01:02:58,000
And I knew on Friday
that I had not lost the year.
1013
01:02:58,000 --> 01:02:59,733
And that is particularly
important, because
1014
01:02:59,733 --> 01:03:05,100
some of the initial ports
that we made look really nice.
1015
01:03:05,100 --> 01:03:07,867
At the same time,
it's incredibly frustrating,
1016
01:03:07,867 --> 01:03:10,733
because I knew that from
here forward,
1017
01:03:10,733 --> 01:03:12,400
it's not gonna be the same.
1018
01:03:12,400 --> 01:03:14,867
And so it's one of those
split years.
1019
01:03:14,867 --> 01:03:17,967
We're gonna have a first half
and a second half of the year.
1020
01:03:17,967 --> 01:03:20,967
[solemn orchestral music]
1021
01:03:20,967 --> 01:03:29,000
*
1022
01:04:08,800 --> 01:04:11,033
- This rain is
going to be a problem.
1023
01:04:11,033 --> 01:04:13,333
And I'm afraid that
a lot of rot
1024
01:04:13,333 --> 01:04:16,900
will arrive very, very soon.
1025
01:04:16,900 --> 01:04:19,133
But then again, here we are
1026
01:04:19,133 --> 01:04:21,667
in the most beautiful
wine area in the world,
1027
01:04:21,667 --> 01:04:25,067
some of the best vineyards
for port at the bottom,
1028
01:04:25,067 --> 01:04:28,600
some fantastic vineyards here,
old vines,
1029
01:04:28,600 --> 01:04:32,267
perfect for making white wine,
making a red wine.
1030
01:04:34,333 --> 01:04:36,433
We'll see.
1031
01:04:36,433 --> 01:04:37,667
We will see.
1032
01:04:37,667 --> 01:04:45,500
*
1033
01:04:54,633 --> 01:04:57,733
narrator: For the most part,
Dirk has done well.
1034
01:04:57,733 --> 01:05:00,233
Making a lot of table wine
from the lighter
1035
01:05:00,233 --> 01:05:03,967
grape varieties, he wisely
picked most of his grapes
1036
01:05:03,967 --> 01:05:06,267
before the rain
1037
01:05:06,267 --> 01:05:09,500
but not all of them.
1038
01:05:09,500 --> 01:05:12,600
At the Morgadio da Calcada,
Dirk waited
1039
01:05:12,600 --> 01:05:14,367
just a little too long.
1040
01:05:17,567 --> 01:05:20,167
The red grapes from
the old vines
1041
01:05:20,167 --> 01:05:22,133
are pretty much a write-off,
1042
01:05:22,133 --> 01:05:26,733
destroyed by the rain
and damp fog.
1043
01:05:26,733 --> 01:05:29,367
And though the younger vines
can be salvaged,
1044
01:05:29,367 --> 01:05:33,300
it's a real blow
to the Morgadio.
1045
01:05:33,300 --> 01:05:34,967
They have a tiny output,
1046
01:05:34,967 --> 01:05:38,700
and some of their best grapes
are lost.
1047
01:05:38,700 --> 01:05:46,533
*
1048
01:06:06,767 --> 01:06:08,300
- They are bigger,
1049
01:06:08,300 --> 01:06:11,867
because these three or four
days raining, they are--
1050
01:06:11,867 --> 01:06:16,167
- If you pick them up today,
it's fine.
1051
01:06:16,167 --> 01:06:19,200
[indistinct conversation]
1052
01:06:23,800 --> 01:06:25,133
Are you going to look
at the white?
1053
01:06:30,567 --> 01:06:34,400
narrator: So much about
growing grapes and making wine
1054
01:06:34,400 --> 01:06:37,133
still depends on sheer luck.
1055
01:06:41,500 --> 01:06:45,767
Further upriver and barely
touched by the rain so far
1056
01:06:45,767 --> 01:06:49,700
is the Quinta do Vesuvio,
another Symington property.
1057
01:06:52,067 --> 01:06:54,300
The picking crew are
ending their work
1058
01:06:54,300 --> 01:06:58,400
in the vines, but their day
is far from over.
1059
01:07:01,100 --> 01:07:03,600
- The reality of the picking
is quite harsh,
1060
01:07:03,600 --> 01:07:05,700
because they're picking
all through the day,
1061
01:07:05,700 --> 01:07:08,133
obviously breaks for lunch
and what have you.
1062
01:07:08,133 --> 01:07:10,667
But then in the evening,
they come down,
1063
01:07:10,667 --> 01:07:14,100
and then they go to tread
for three hours additional,
1064
01:07:14,100 --> 01:07:16,800
having started
at 6:45 in the morning.
1065
01:07:16,800 --> 01:07:19,633
[man chanting]
1066
01:07:32,333 --> 01:07:34,767
We're treading because
it really is
1067
01:07:34,767 --> 01:07:38,200
an incredibly effective way
of getting color and flavor
1068
01:07:38,200 --> 01:07:40,333
out of the skins
in a very short time.
1069
01:07:40,333 --> 01:07:44,400
Our fermentation time
is short, 48 hours.
1070
01:07:44,400 --> 01:07:47,667
Your foot, my foot
is a very effective way
1071
01:07:47,667 --> 01:07:49,033
of squeezing the skins
1072
01:07:49,033 --> 01:07:50,933
without unduly bruising
the pips.
1073
01:07:50,933 --> 01:07:53,767
- [chanting]
1074
01:07:58,700 --> 01:08:00,500
- I think it's probably
the last place on Earth
1075
01:08:00,500 --> 01:08:03,500
where a significant amount
of wine is made
1076
01:08:03,500 --> 01:08:05,900
in this ancient way.
1077
01:08:05,900 --> 01:08:08,133
If you go to Pompeii
and look at
1078
01:08:08,133 --> 01:08:11,033
the ancient ruins there
with the old cartoons
1079
01:08:11,033 --> 01:08:13,467
and drawings on the wall,
and there you'll see
1080
01:08:13,467 --> 01:08:15,967
stone tanks with people
treading,
1081
01:08:15,967 --> 01:08:18,533
exactly what we do today.
1082
01:08:18,533 --> 01:08:20,600
We're not doing it
because we like to maintain
1083
01:08:20,600 --> 01:08:22,933
some weird historical thing.
1084
01:08:22,933 --> 01:08:25,067
It just works.
And it works for us.
1085
01:08:28,700 --> 01:08:31,233
narrator: Downriver,
at the Quinta de Vargellas,
1086
01:08:31,233 --> 01:08:35,567
the same thing will happen
at Taylor's.
1087
01:08:35,567 --> 01:08:41,500
Each company has its own
habits and techniques.
1088
01:08:41,500 --> 01:08:44,767
There will be two hours of this
day after day.
1089
01:08:44,767 --> 01:08:47,700
And remember, the treaders
are the same villagers
1090
01:08:47,700 --> 01:08:50,500
who were out all day
picking the grapes.
1091
01:08:54,967 --> 01:08:57,167
- After two hours,
we give the signal.
1092
01:08:57,167 --> 01:09:00,233
It's called "liberdad."
It's known as liberty.
1093
01:09:00,233 --> 01:09:02,167
And there's a traditional song
that's sung,
1094
01:09:02,167 --> 01:09:05,900
which is about women
and pretty girls and freedom.
1095
01:09:05,900 --> 01:09:08,733
[all singing]
1096
01:09:25,133 --> 01:09:27,033
Then all hell breaks loose.
1097
01:09:27,033 --> 01:09:28,567
The accordion player starts,
1098
01:09:28,567 --> 01:09:32,000
and you grab the nearest
pretty girl, and off you go.
1099
01:09:32,000 --> 01:09:35,000
[upbeat accordion music]
1100
01:09:35,000 --> 01:09:43,033
*
1101
01:09:57,567 --> 01:09:59,400
narrator: Though you're
dancing, of course,
1102
01:09:59,400 --> 01:10:01,700
you're still treading
the grapes.
1103
01:10:01,700 --> 01:10:03,200
It's free-form.
1104
01:10:03,200 --> 01:10:04,867
Guests are welcome to join in.
1105
01:10:04,867 --> 01:10:07,100
It's a celebration.
1106
01:10:07,100 --> 01:10:10,000
And there'll be a few glasses
of last year's port
1107
01:10:10,000 --> 01:10:12,400
to crown the evening's efforts.
1108
01:10:12,400 --> 01:10:20,233
*
1109
01:10:23,333 --> 01:10:26,000
And then, sometime during
the night,
1110
01:10:26,000 --> 01:10:30,200
when the party's over,
each lagar reaches
1111
01:10:30,200 --> 01:10:33,767
its best maturity at exactly
the right alcoholic level.
1112
01:10:38,100 --> 01:10:41,367
Almost casually, a dose
of brandy is added,
1113
01:10:41,367 --> 01:10:45,867
and that stops the fermentation
in its tracks.
1114
01:10:45,867 --> 01:10:49,000
From now on, this is
officially port,
1115
01:10:49,000 --> 01:10:51,200
a wine fortified with spirits
1116
01:10:51,200 --> 01:10:54,300
to reach approximately
20% alcohol.
1117
01:11:00,100 --> 01:11:03,400
- So this is the almost
birth of port.
1118
01:11:03,400 --> 01:11:07,433
These grapes were picked
two days ago.
1119
01:11:07,433 --> 01:11:10,300
The vineyard really matters,
the picking,
1120
01:11:10,300 --> 01:11:15,033
and, of course, the care
in the winemaking.
1121
01:11:15,033 --> 01:11:17,700
It looks exceptional.
1122
01:11:17,700 --> 01:11:19,000
Do you see the color?
1123
01:11:19,000 --> 01:11:22,533
It's incredible.
It's fermenting.
1124
01:11:22,533 --> 01:11:23,767
And look at the smell.
1125
01:11:25,500 --> 01:11:28,500
It's so expressive.
It's so beautiful.
1126
01:11:28,500 --> 01:11:31,033
And we will see.
1127
01:11:31,033 --> 01:11:33,933
Maybe in 50 years,
it will be good.
1128
01:11:33,933 --> 01:11:35,733
It's, of course,
too early to say
1129
01:11:35,733 --> 01:11:37,067
what it will be.
1130
01:11:37,067 --> 01:11:39,067
But I have no doubts
that this will make
1131
01:11:39,067 --> 01:11:41,733
some great port,
in some decades,
1132
01:11:41,733 --> 01:11:43,367
something spectacular.
1133
01:12:07,533 --> 01:12:11,100
narrator: Port spends
most of its life in barrels,
1134
01:12:11,100 --> 01:12:15,867
sometimes as much as 100 years
before being blended.
1135
01:12:15,867 --> 01:12:18,400
But eventually
it'll all be bottled,
1136
01:12:18,400 --> 01:12:21,767
and the bottles will need
to be perfectly sealed.
1137
01:12:21,767 --> 01:12:23,700
That's why corks exist.
1138
01:12:28,533 --> 01:12:31,100
The process of making
and using corks
1139
01:12:31,100 --> 01:12:33,400
was largely invented
by the Portuguese,
1140
01:12:33,400 --> 01:12:36,700
for whom the cork tree
is a native species.
1141
01:12:36,700 --> 01:12:39,700
[cheerful music]
1142
01:12:39,700 --> 01:12:44,233
*
1143
01:12:44,233 --> 01:12:46,567
Today, the very best corks
are made under
1144
01:12:46,567 --> 01:12:49,367
clean-room conditions
to prevent them
1145
01:12:49,367 --> 01:12:51,633
from developing
that notorious taint
1146
01:12:51,633 --> 01:12:55,633
that can spoil the wine.
1147
01:12:55,633 --> 01:12:59,933
The founder of the cork
company is Jochen Michalski.
1148
01:12:59,933 --> 01:13:02,400
- When we inspect the corks,
we have to do
1149
01:13:02,400 --> 01:13:05,400
a sensory evaluation
to make sure that the corks
1150
01:13:05,400 --> 01:13:08,700
are sound for--to seal
a bottle of wine long-term.
1151
01:13:08,700 --> 01:13:12,500
And the way we do this is,
we soak a cork in wine.
1152
01:13:12,500 --> 01:13:15,233
And then 24 hours later,
we smell the cork.
1153
01:13:15,233 --> 01:13:17,067
And there has been nothing yet--
1154
01:13:17,067 --> 01:13:19,733
there has been no
electronic nose
1155
01:13:19,733 --> 01:13:21,533
which can really
simulate this.
1156
01:13:28,733 --> 01:13:33,233
We have--many of our customers
have wines which retail,
1157
01:13:33,233 --> 01:13:37,700
you know, for $50, $100,
or $150 or more,
1158
01:13:37,700 --> 01:13:39,900
so for them, it is crucial
1159
01:13:39,900 --> 01:13:42,167
that every single bottle
is perfect,
1160
01:13:42,167 --> 01:13:45,167
and to those customers,
we actually offer today
1161
01:13:45,167 --> 01:13:47,800
a solution
that we individually test
1162
01:13:47,800 --> 01:13:51,900
each individual cork
which they use at their winery.
1163
01:13:51,900 --> 01:13:55,000
So we literally examine
every cork
1164
01:13:55,000 --> 01:13:58,800
and approve it before
we ship it,
1165
01:13:58,800 --> 01:14:01,000
whether it's sound for wine
or not.
1166
01:14:01,000 --> 01:14:03,700
And we have customers
who order 50,000--
1167
01:14:03,700 --> 01:14:05,267
or 100,000, actually--
1168
01:14:05,267 --> 01:14:07,033
and you'd be surprised,
you know,
1169
01:14:07,033 --> 01:14:09,767
that we have to do
100,000 sniff tests,
1170
01:14:09,767 --> 01:14:11,100
but we do it.
1171
01:14:11,100 --> 01:14:13,433
We have a lot of qualified
employees here
1172
01:14:13,433 --> 01:14:15,733
who we have trained
over the years.
1173
01:14:15,733 --> 01:14:19,133
And all they do is
smell corks
1174
01:14:19,133 --> 01:14:21,033
from morning to night,
one by one.
1175
01:14:32,100 --> 01:14:35,333
[birds squawking]
1176
01:14:35,333 --> 01:14:38,333
narrator: In the winter,
the winemakers set to work
1177
01:14:38,333 --> 01:14:41,333
to create the different ports.
1178
01:14:41,333 --> 01:14:44,300
Basically, they've all
spent time in barrel.
1179
01:14:44,300 --> 01:14:48,300
But ruby port is younger,
and tawny port is older.
1180
01:14:48,300 --> 01:14:50,833
And there are also a few
fashionable inventions,
1181
01:14:50,833 --> 01:14:52,133
like white port.
1182
01:14:54,367 --> 01:14:56,067
- Well,
we have the port wine here.
1183
01:14:56,067 --> 01:14:57,800
It's a very complex wine.
1184
01:14:57,800 --> 01:15:00,267
We have many categories
of port wine.
1185
01:15:00,267 --> 01:15:03,967
Here we have the
entrance level--
1186
01:15:03,967 --> 01:15:06,567
white, tawny, and ruby.
1187
01:15:06,567 --> 01:15:12,667
Then we have the reservas--
white, tawny, and ruby.
1188
01:15:12,667 --> 01:15:17,400
Then we have the old tawnies--
10, 20, 30.
1189
01:15:17,400 --> 01:15:19,433
And the vintage.
1190
01:15:19,433 --> 01:15:22,600
narrator: What make a great
port is the blending,
1191
01:15:22,600 --> 01:15:27,033
and João of Ramos Pinto
is a master blender.
1192
01:15:27,033 --> 01:15:30,467
- Let's try to make a blend.
1193
01:15:30,467 --> 01:15:35,967
Here, you have what
we call the "piano."
1194
01:15:35,967 --> 01:15:41,333
And each bottle represents
1195
01:15:41,333 --> 01:15:43,733
a wine that is in the cellar,
1196
01:15:43,733 --> 01:15:45,867
aging in the cellar.
1197
01:15:45,867 --> 01:15:50,500
Like a piano,
each bottle is a key.
1198
01:15:50,500 --> 01:15:55,500
The idea is to make
a perfect symphony.
1199
01:15:55,500 --> 01:16:00,233
As you can see,
I have here young wine, ruby.
1200
01:16:00,233 --> 01:16:06,100
It's still with some fruit,
1201
01:16:06,100 --> 01:16:07,833
red fruit flavor.
1202
01:16:07,833 --> 01:16:11,667
But also,
we have very old wines,
1203
01:16:11,667 --> 01:16:18,133
like 1900, 1884, 1909.
1204
01:16:18,133 --> 01:16:23,367
So first I choose an approach.
1205
01:16:23,367 --> 01:16:28,967
The first approach,
which is gonna be the base...
1206
01:16:28,967 --> 01:16:36,067
Now I'm going to find
which of the old wines
1207
01:16:36,067 --> 01:16:39,600
could marry with the wine
that I have here.
1208
01:16:39,600 --> 01:16:43,067
So let's be patient and try.
1209
01:16:43,067 --> 01:16:46,700
You see, this is just a drop.
1210
01:16:48,800 --> 01:16:53,633
I want it old
but with a vivacity,
1211
01:16:53,633 --> 01:16:55,767
with a youngness, with a spirit.
1212
01:16:57,533 --> 01:17:00,533
[gentle piano music]
1213
01:17:00,533 --> 01:17:05,433
*
1214
01:17:05,433 --> 01:17:09,067
narrator: All over town,
the same thing is happening.
1215
01:17:09,067 --> 01:17:12,233
At Graham's, Charles Symington
and two tasters
1216
01:17:12,233 --> 01:17:15,333
are creating their
30-year-old tawny.
1217
01:17:21,433 --> 01:17:24,800
Conversation is hardly
necessary.
1218
01:17:24,800 --> 01:17:32,633
*
1219
01:17:51,933 --> 01:17:54,767
[indistinct conversation]
1220
01:18:01,267 --> 01:18:04,733
Dirk Niepoort has created
most of his classic port
1221
01:18:04,733 --> 01:18:09,733
with long-time master blender
Zeze Nogueiras.
1222
01:18:09,733 --> 01:18:12,133
- Blending is a little bit
like psychology.
1223
01:18:12,133 --> 01:18:13,700
It's like observing people.
1224
01:18:13,700 --> 01:18:17,433
You have to look at the wines,
look at the vineyards
1225
01:18:17,433 --> 01:18:21,333
where it comes from,
and understand the wine.
1226
01:18:21,333 --> 01:18:24,600
And then you can
use the strength,
1227
01:18:24,600 --> 01:18:28,033
the strong side of that wine
to emphasize
1228
01:18:28,033 --> 01:18:30,733
the character
of the whole blend.
1229
01:18:30,733 --> 01:18:34,667
And this can be--small
quantities can make a miracle.
1230
01:18:34,667 --> 01:18:37,667
[gentle piano music]
1231
01:18:37,667 --> 01:18:45,167
*
1232
01:18:45,167 --> 01:18:46,733
Blending is an art.
1233
01:18:46,733 --> 01:18:49,567
I like to say that,
for myself,
1234
01:18:49,567 --> 01:18:51,367
two and two is not four.
1235
01:18:51,367 --> 01:18:54,233
Two and two can be 10.
It can be even 12.
1236
01:18:54,233 --> 01:18:56,133
Of course, if you don't know
how to blending,
1237
01:18:56,133 --> 01:18:57,900
it can be minus two.
1238
01:18:57,900 --> 01:19:05,733
*
1239
01:19:21,400 --> 01:19:23,900
[laughter]
1240
01:19:23,900 --> 01:19:26,100
There's wines that are
fantastic.
1241
01:19:26,100 --> 01:19:28,367
But if you keep them
and keep them,
1242
01:19:28,367 --> 01:19:30,133
suddenly they become a miracle.
1243
01:19:30,133 --> 01:19:33,600
And this is a little bit--
our duty
1244
01:19:33,600 --> 01:19:35,500
is to guard these treasures
1245
01:19:35,500 --> 01:19:38,233
and then in the right moment,
to catch them,
1246
01:19:38,233 --> 01:19:41,000
put them in the bottle,
and show it to the world
1247
01:19:41,000 --> 01:19:42,367
and enjoy them.
1248
01:20:01,600 --> 01:20:03,700
- Oh, wow!
1249
01:20:19,733 --> 01:20:22,567
[metallic tapping]
1250
01:20:24,567 --> 01:20:27,833
- Of course, my duty here is,
I have to do
1251
01:20:27,833 --> 01:20:30,933
the same thing that my
grandfather did for my father
1252
01:20:30,933 --> 01:20:32,467
and my father did for me.
1253
01:20:32,467 --> 01:20:37,267
So I have to make sure
that we forget things.
1254
01:20:37,267 --> 01:20:39,667
And by hiding things
in this warehouse,
1255
01:20:39,667 --> 01:20:43,233
I think we can do things
for the next generation--
1256
01:20:43,233 --> 01:20:46,000
not generation,
maybe generations.
1257
01:20:46,000 --> 01:20:47,667
And that's very rewarding.
1258
01:20:47,667 --> 01:20:49,200
So this is a wine,
probably,
1259
01:20:49,200 --> 01:20:51,133
we'll put on the market
in about 15 years
1260
01:20:51,133 --> 01:20:52,367
or something like that.
1261
01:20:52,367 --> 01:20:56,367
- Well, I'd rather have it now.
1262
01:20:56,367 --> 01:21:00,267
- You know, port,
we have to give it time.
1263
01:21:00,267 --> 01:21:01,200
- Yeah.
1264
01:21:04,100 --> 01:21:06,600
narrator: It's the birthday
of Dirk's father,
1265
01:21:06,600 --> 01:21:11,500
Rolf Niepoort, the grand old
man of the family.
1266
01:21:11,500 --> 01:21:14,667
Three generations are gathering
to celebrate.
1267
01:21:14,667 --> 01:21:17,500
[indistinct conversation]
1268
01:21:29,733 --> 01:21:32,567
[cheers and applause]
1269
01:21:36,733 --> 01:21:41,533
Besides the cake,
there's a rather special port.
1270
01:21:41,533 --> 01:21:42,667
- Rolfi.
1271
01:21:48,767 --> 01:21:50,467
- It's your birth year?
Yeah.
1272
01:21:52,333 --> 01:21:55,767
narrator: This is a bottle
created in 1927
1273
01:21:55,767 --> 01:21:58,400
by Rolf's father.
1274
01:21:58,400 --> 01:22:02,667
Today, they'll drink it
to make a very special toast.
1275
01:22:02,667 --> 01:22:04,667
[glasses clinking]
1276
01:22:17,533 --> 01:22:20,367
[laughter]
1277
01:22:35,033 --> 01:22:37,333
narrator: From generation
to generation,
1278
01:22:37,333 --> 01:22:41,167
the winemakers are not only
passing on the responsibility
1279
01:22:41,167 --> 01:22:44,533
for the family name
and company
1280
01:22:44,533 --> 01:22:48,433
but also for the fate
of Oporto and the Douro.
1281
01:22:52,967 --> 01:22:54,767
What will the future bring?
1282
01:22:57,367 --> 01:22:59,100
- There's been a lot of change
1283
01:22:59,100 --> 01:23:01,133
in the years I've been working
with my family.
1284
01:23:01,133 --> 01:23:04,933
It's putting huge pressure
on an ancient wine region.
1285
01:23:04,933 --> 01:23:06,467
There are not many of us left
1286
01:23:06,467 --> 01:23:09,633
who still have this real
passion for what we do.
1287
01:23:09,633 --> 01:23:12,267
Fortified wines,
generally, around the world,
1288
01:23:12,267 --> 01:23:14,533
have been declining
for the last 20 years.
1289
01:23:14,533 --> 01:23:18,667
So if you want an easy business,
then don't get into port,
1290
01:23:18,667 --> 01:23:20,433
because it isn't easy.
1291
01:23:20,433 --> 01:23:22,500
But I think there are enough
of us who actually
1292
01:23:22,500 --> 01:23:25,933
really believe in it
and appreciate the sort of--
1293
01:23:25,933 --> 01:23:28,633
the really finer parts of it.
1294
01:23:28,633 --> 01:23:30,833
And I think there are enough
of us to make sure
1295
01:23:30,833 --> 01:23:33,233
there's a good future.
1296
01:23:33,233 --> 01:23:35,167
- Being a family business,
you know,
1297
01:23:35,167 --> 01:23:37,833
I have to worry about not just
whether we like
1298
01:23:37,833 --> 01:23:39,333
a vintage port today.
1299
01:23:39,333 --> 01:23:41,567
I have to worry about whether
the next generation
1300
01:23:41,567 --> 01:23:43,867
are gonna feel that those
who went before
1301
01:23:43,867 --> 01:23:45,367
did a good job or not.
1302
01:23:45,367 --> 01:23:47,300
And so we need to do
the very best that we can.
1303
01:23:47,300 --> 01:23:49,733
And that, to me, is all about
keeping some focus
1304
01:23:49,733 --> 01:23:52,000
on what we really know well,
1305
01:23:52,000 --> 01:23:54,700
which is making
top-quality port.
1306
01:23:54,700 --> 01:23:56,867
- What the next generation
is going to do,
1307
01:23:56,867 --> 01:23:58,533
I have no idea.
1308
01:23:58,533 --> 01:24:01,100
But we will see.
1309
01:24:01,100 --> 01:24:03,167
We have to give them
some space,
1310
01:24:03,167 --> 01:24:05,767
like my father gave me space
to do things
1311
01:24:05,767 --> 01:24:08,267
a little bit different.
1312
01:24:08,267 --> 01:24:10,533
But the times are very fast.
1313
01:24:10,533 --> 01:24:14,133
What I'm trying to teach
my children is,
1314
01:24:14,133 --> 01:24:18,067
"Please, slow down a little bit
and think.
1315
01:24:19,667 --> 01:24:22,167
Take your time."
1316
01:24:22,167 --> 01:24:25,367
[regal orchestral music]
1317
01:24:25,367 --> 01:24:33,200
*
101063
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.