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It's hell, this place.
4
00:00:41,720 --> 00:00:43,640
This is hell on earth.
5
00:00:46,919 --> 00:00:51,239
There's nothing natural about it.
Nothing really human about it.
6
00:00:55,720 --> 00:00:58,720
{\an8}I brought you to this place
because I hate it.
7
00:00:58,720 --> 00:01:04,039
{\an8}This kind of shows precisely everything
about 21st-century America,
8
00:01:04,039 --> 00:01:08,119
uh, just how everything is
kind of artificially thrown up.
9
00:01:08,119 --> 00:01:10,720
There's no regard,
whatsoever, for the environment
10
00:01:10,720 --> 00:01:14,440
or for the way humans ought to live,
or how they can function properly.
11
00:01:14,440 --> 00:01:16,640
Everything is just wrapped in plastic,
12
00:01:16,640 --> 00:01:19,440
and this is how people
are supposed to survive.
13
00:01:23,200 --> 00:01:25,960
I think most Americans,
they've kind of lost touch
14
00:01:25,960 --> 00:01:28,240
with the culture that they came from,
15
00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:31,880
and so now, this is what people aspire to,
16
00:01:31,880 --> 00:01:34,800
is just to find a job in the city
17
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and to find a place where they can
meet somebody and then spawn,
18
00:01:40,679 --> 00:01:43,360
uh, and then, uh,
19
00:01:43,360 --> 00:01:45,399
you know, make their investments.
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Grow to an old age
and then wither away and die.
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It seems like it's not too much
of an existence for me.
22
00:01:52,800 --> 00:01:54,360
At least it's not where I want to be.
23
00:02:04,399 --> 00:02:07,440
What would you say to the people
who choose to live in a place like this?
24
00:02:09,120 --> 00:02:10,560
I'm sorry.
25
00:02:21,280 --> 00:02:23,680
Everything is motivated by money.
26
00:02:24,680 --> 00:02:27,079
Everything is the almighty dollar.
27
00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:32,560
Everything is just an incredible race
to get more and to make more
28
00:02:32,560 --> 00:02:35,400
and to optimize more
and to get better returns,
29
00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:39,000
and the fact is, is that you're gonna die.
30
00:02:40,480 --> 00:02:43,440
What's a good return after you're dead?
31
00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:04,799
When I walk through a place like this,
I feel like a caged animal,
32
00:03:05,600 --> 00:03:09,679
uh... not really able to deal
with my environment.
33
00:03:09,679 --> 00:03:13,079
I just wanna run away into the woods
after I'm in a place like this.
34
00:03:13,959 --> 00:03:16,320
Or maybe into my record room.
35
00:03:20,679 --> 00:03:23,200
My record room represents a sanctuary.
36
00:03:23,200 --> 00:03:26,440
It's the one place where I know
everything is predictable.
37
00:03:26,440 --> 00:03:30,359
I know where all my records are,
I know where everything is.
38
00:03:30,359 --> 00:03:32,239
I know I'm safe there.
39
00:03:40,119 --> 00:03:41,560
It's pretty pathetic, though.
40
00:03:41,560 --> 00:03:45,920
That's where I find comfort,
is locked up in my record room.
41
00:04:10,480 --> 00:04:11,600
There we go.
42
00:04:58,479 --> 00:05:01,080
What is a 78 rpm record?
43
00:05:02,200 --> 00:05:08,599
A 78 rpm record is composed of
slowly decaying organic compounds,
44
00:05:08,599 --> 00:05:14,240
tree rosin, bovine bones,
hair, clay, cork, shellac.
45
00:05:15,840 --> 00:05:18,120
And it contains within it
musical information
46
00:05:18,120 --> 00:05:22,800
passed from one generation to the next
for thousands of years.
47
00:05:26,960 --> 00:05:28,880
Those discs stand before me
48
00:05:28,880 --> 00:05:32,240
like the black monoliths
in 2001: A Space Odyssey,
49
00:05:32,240 --> 00:05:35,159
we, the awkward hominid species, and it,
50
00:05:35,159 --> 00:05:38,680
this mysterious source of dark,
unimaginable power.
51
00:05:39,359 --> 00:05:44,039
But by the end of World War II,
the 78 rpm disc had run its course
52
00:05:44,039 --> 00:05:47,719
and along with it, authentic
rural folk music had disappeared.
53
00:05:59,680 --> 00:06:03,359
Anything recorded after 1941 is garbage.
54
00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:21,520
Do you hear that soft tick-tick-ticking?
55
00:06:25,640 --> 00:06:29,120
It's... It's right here. There's this...
56
00:06:29,120 --> 00:06:35,240
If you look really closely at a little
indentation that runs about 20 grooves?
57
00:06:35,240 --> 00:06:38,560
When I first got this disc,
this was the best pressing
58
00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:41,359
that you could get
of the Zoumbas's "Miroloi"
59
00:06:41,359 --> 00:06:43,159
because it's an A pressing,
60
00:06:43,159 --> 00:06:45,760
it came
from the first generation stampers.
61
00:06:45,760 --> 00:06:49,400
But it had a little warp in it,
so I couldn't play it.
62
00:06:49,400 --> 00:06:53,400
So I took the record
and I took two pieces of plate glass
63
00:06:53,400 --> 00:06:56,240
and I laid this record
on top of a piece of plate glass
64
00:06:56,240 --> 00:06:58,760
and put another piece
of glass on top of it
65
00:06:58,760 --> 00:07:03,359
and then I put it in the sunlight on
the sidewalk and let it sit for 15 minutes
66
00:07:03,359 --> 00:07:07,680
until the whole disc relaxed
and became perfectly flat.
67
00:07:07,680 --> 00:07:11,280
But what I didn't realize was
I had scratched my mustache
68
00:07:11,280 --> 00:07:16,479
and one of my mustache hairs fell
and landed right there,
69
00:07:16,479 --> 00:07:19,159
and then when I put the piece
of glass over top of it,
70
00:07:19,159 --> 00:07:22,760
it merged my mustache hair
with the surface of the disc
71
00:07:22,760 --> 00:07:25,159
so that Zoumbas and I became one.
72
00:09:12,400 --> 00:09:15,560
Can you hear me, Paul?
You can hear me perfectly?
73
00:09:15,560 --> 00:09:16,920
I hate you.
74
00:09:20,000 --> 00:09:22,640
This is worse than, like, masturbation.
75
00:09:37,600 --> 00:09:41,480
- What brings you here today?
- They're filming me.
76
00:09:41,480 --> 00:09:45,079
- Nice. Why are they filming you?
- I don't know. Uh...
77
00:09:45,079 --> 00:09:47,439
Hopefully it's for good reasons?
78
00:09:47,439 --> 00:09:53,079
- No, I wrote about music in rural Greece.
- Awesome. Nice.
79
00:09:53,079 --> 00:09:56,160
And, uh, I live here,
I live in the county,
80
00:09:56,160 --> 00:09:58,079
and so they wanted to see
81
00:09:58,079 --> 00:10:01,720
what it was like for me
to live here in the United States.
82
00:10:07,240 --> 00:10:10,360
What kind of music did they play
in Greece, back in the day?
83
00:10:10,360 --> 00:10:12,959
- It's being played right now.
- Okay.
84
00:10:12,959 --> 00:10:14,520
It's, uh...
85
00:10:14,520 --> 00:10:17,079
- It's clarinet and violin based.
- Interesting, okay.
86
00:10:17,079 --> 00:10:20,240
Yeah, and it's very...
it's very hypnotic.
87
00:10:20,240 --> 00:10:21,520
Nice.
88
00:10:21,520 --> 00:10:25,079
A lot of it's instrumentals
with really short scales.
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00:10:25,079 --> 00:10:27,160
- Yeah.
- It's meant for dancing.
90
00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:28,600
Understood.
91
00:10:28,600 --> 00:10:31,839
Like, big dancing.
300, 400 people in a circle.
92
00:10:31,839 --> 00:10:35,240
Gotcha, gotcha, gotcha, yeah.
That's awesome.
93
00:10:35,240 --> 00:10:36,800
- Do you play any instruments?
- Yeah.
94
00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:37,959
What do you play?
95
00:10:37,959 --> 00:10:43,800
Uh, violin, guitar, laouto,
accordion, banjo.
96
00:10:43,800 --> 00:10:47,280
- Nice. What's the laouka?
- Laouto. It's a Greek instrument.
97
00:10:47,280 --> 00:10:49,480
- It's like a Greek guitar.
- Nice.
98
00:10:49,480 --> 00:10:52,640
- They call it a lute. It's like a lute.
- Okay. Gotcha.
99
00:10:52,640 --> 00:10:55,319
- Round body and everything.
- Yeah, big-ass round body.
100
00:10:55,319 --> 00:10:58,319
I gotcha.
Sounds like the woman of my dreams.
101
00:10:58,319 --> 00:11:01,959
Uh, for some men, yes.
If you're into that kind of thing.
102
00:11:01,959 --> 00:11:06,360
- It's a little too big for me.
- I gotcha, I appreciate that.
103
00:11:07,480 --> 00:11:08,920
That sounds cool.
104
00:11:08,920 --> 00:11:11,520
Never got a chance
to make it to Greece yet.
105
00:11:11,520 --> 00:11:13,160
It's not the tourist area.
106
00:11:13,160 --> 00:11:16,040
You know, like when you think
of Greece, what do you think of?
107
00:11:16,040 --> 00:11:19,079
- The movie with John Travolta.
- Right.
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00:11:25,520 --> 00:11:29,160
- It was very nice talking to you. Patrick.
- Nice talking to you, man. Patrick.
109
00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:55,839
When I was a little kid, my dad would
always take me along junking with him,
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00:11:55,839 --> 00:11:57,880
looking at old houses.
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00:11:57,880 --> 00:12:00,000
He would always put me in
through a window
112
00:12:00,000 --> 00:12:01,880
so I could find a way to open a door
113
00:12:01,880 --> 00:12:05,120
so he could come in and look around
and see what was left.
114
00:12:05,959 --> 00:12:08,079
I fell through the floor one time.
115
00:12:11,199 --> 00:12:15,120
I got into collecting because of my dad.
It was some sort of strange impulse.
116
00:12:15,120 --> 00:12:17,959
Just watching him collect
made me want to collect.
117
00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:22,560
He was a collector of everything,
much better collector than I am.
118
00:12:25,560 --> 00:12:30,839
I had just turned 15 and I was
working at my grandparents' farm
119
00:12:30,839 --> 00:12:34,240
and my grandfather asked me
to help him clear out his shed
120
00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:35,719
before he burned it to the ground.
121
00:12:35,719 --> 00:12:39,800
It was an old sharecropper's shed where
people that worked on the farm would live.
122
00:12:39,800 --> 00:12:43,040
And I pried open the door
123
00:12:43,040 --> 00:12:47,520
and sitting in the middle of the room
was this old phonograph player
124
00:12:47,520 --> 00:12:50,400
starting to rot
and to fall in upon itself.
125
00:12:50,400 --> 00:12:53,040
But sitting right next
to the phonograph player,
126
00:12:53,040 --> 00:12:56,400
an old wind-up Victrola player,
was a steel box,
127
00:12:56,400 --> 00:13:00,120
and I walked over and I picked it up
and I pried the lid off of it.
128
00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:05,360
And sitting inside of it
were 15 or 20 old 78s.
129
00:13:05,360 --> 00:13:08,400
These were the kind of 78s
that I had never heard before,
130
00:13:08,400 --> 00:13:11,360
but I knew that
I had to listen to, or that...
131
00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:13,680
I had no idea what they were,
132
00:13:13,680 --> 00:13:16,439
but it would turn out
that the records in this box
133
00:13:16,439 --> 00:13:18,240
were the records
that would change my life
134
00:13:18,240 --> 00:13:22,120
and make me become obsessive
about collecting old records.
135
00:13:38,880 --> 00:13:40,599
Can you remember the names?
136
00:13:40,599 --> 00:13:44,959
Yeah, there was Blind Willie Johnson's
"Dark Was the Night, Cold Was the Ground."
137
00:13:44,959 --> 00:13:47,640
And Washington Phillips'
"Denomination Blues"
138
00:13:47,640 --> 00:13:49,199
and "Teach Your Children."
139
00:13:49,199 --> 00:13:51,199
There was Edward Clayborn.
140
00:13:51,199 --> 00:13:54,880
There was Joe and Cleoma Falcon,
a Cajun group.
141
00:13:54,880 --> 00:13:58,400
Lots of Black blues
and lots of Black gospel.
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00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:07,199
Real raw music.
143
00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:13,599
I remember playing for the first time
"Dark Was the Night, Cold Was the Ground,"
144
00:14:13,599 --> 00:14:16,719
and realizing that this is it.
145
00:14:17,599 --> 00:14:20,760
This is the kind of music
I was meant to listen to.
146
00:14:33,000 --> 00:14:35,199
I started working for a record label,
147
00:14:35,199 --> 00:14:40,760
and that record label put out old music
from the 1920s and 1930s,
148
00:14:41,400 --> 00:14:45,280
and they knew I could write good notes
149
00:14:45,280 --> 00:14:47,920
and I could get good sound
out of the recordings
150
00:14:47,920 --> 00:14:52,040
and I could sort of midwife
and see the production along
151
00:14:52,040 --> 00:14:56,120
of a CD of old music
from the 1920s and '30s.
152
00:14:56,120 --> 00:14:59,040
It was at that point I realized
I had found my calling.
153
00:15:13,719 --> 00:15:18,400
I love early Cajun music
from southwest Louisiana,
154
00:15:18,400 --> 00:15:21,280
and I love Ukrainian-American
string band music
155
00:15:21,280 --> 00:15:24,000
and Polish-American string band music,
156
00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:29,560
both of which were very vibrant and alive
in New York City in the 1920s and '30s.
157
00:15:29,560 --> 00:15:31,920
And I love old-time Appalachian music
158
00:15:31,920 --> 00:15:36,599
and old-time fiddle music
and old blues from Mississippi.
159
00:15:36,599 --> 00:15:39,880
And all of those things once existed
160
00:15:39,880 --> 00:15:43,120
and once were very vibrant and alive,
161
00:15:43,120 --> 00:15:48,479
and over the course of decades
after the 1940s,
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00:15:48,479 --> 00:15:51,640
the music has just disappeared,
it doesn't exist.
163
00:15:51,640 --> 00:15:53,959
What exists is what's on the 78.
164
00:15:53,959 --> 00:15:58,959
There's no correspondence between what
people call old-time Appalachian music now
165
00:15:58,959 --> 00:16:02,040
and what it was
back in the 1920s and earlier.
166
00:16:29,319 --> 00:16:31,479
When I discovered the music of Epirus,
167
00:16:31,479 --> 00:16:36,319
it turned the tables on that notion
that what, uh...
168
00:16:36,319 --> 00:16:41,160
has died in America has,
oddly enough, stayed alive in Greece.
169
00:17:04,520 --> 00:17:07,879
Uh, I think I was probably traumatized.
170
00:17:07,879 --> 00:17:12,720
I was in a sense of shock when I first
heard the music being played there
171
00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,440
and realized that yeah,
it actually is the same, it's unchanged.
172
00:17:32,240 --> 00:17:37,800
I mean, I guess I felt extraordinarily
disoriented, confused,
173
00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:39,280
when I first heard it.
174
00:17:39,280 --> 00:17:43,360
Just transformed that there was something
175
00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:46,800
that had survived that long unchanged.
176
00:17:46,800 --> 00:17:50,280
Uh, that pure, with all that meaning.
177
00:17:50,280 --> 00:17:53,000
I... I guess the best way
to express it was
178
00:17:53,000 --> 00:17:57,560
that I was in a state of shock,
disbelief, until I saw it.
179
00:18:34,040 --> 00:18:36,840
The deepest emotion that I had
when I heard that
180
00:18:36,840 --> 00:18:40,919
and realized that what I was
listening to was living continuity
181
00:18:40,919 --> 00:18:43,399
between the distant past and the present
182
00:18:43,399 --> 00:18:48,080
was, I almost felt like I had
discovered my own home music,
183
00:18:48,080 --> 00:18:50,800
that I had come home,
if that makes any sense.
184
00:18:50,800 --> 00:18:56,960
I had found something that
I wanted to experience and inhabit,
185
00:18:56,960 --> 00:18:58,879
and I didn't wanna leave
186
00:18:58,879 --> 00:19:02,520
because it was exactly
what I'd been searching for all my life.
187
00:21:56,600 --> 00:22:01,560
BETTER TO LIVE IN FREEDOM
FOR ONE HOUR
188
00:22:01,560 --> 00:22:08,080
THAN TO BE DOCILE CITIZENS
FOR 40 YEARS
189
00:23:44,679 --> 00:23:48,639
Geographically, Epirus is in the region
190
00:23:48,639 --> 00:23:53,399
of southern Albania
and northwestern Greece.
191
00:23:53,399 --> 00:23:56,480
It contains one of the largest
mountain ranges in Europe
192
00:23:56,480 --> 00:23:59,159
and also the deepest gorge,
the Vikos Gorge.
193
00:23:59,879 --> 00:24:04,879
The Pindus Mountain Range has protected
the area from outside influences.
194
00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:12,000
And here, the music reaches far back
into its pagan pre-history.
195
00:24:13,639 --> 00:24:17,200
It's almost as if I've discovered, uh...
196
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:20,320
a land that time forgot.
197
00:24:20,320 --> 00:24:24,560
An area where music has not changed,
or changed very, very little.
198
00:27:16,919 --> 00:27:19,960
A panigiri is a celebration
199
00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:23,159
with intense dancing
and drinking and feasting,
200
00:27:23,159 --> 00:27:24,879
communing with one another,
201
00:27:24,879 --> 00:27:30,560
that may originally have progressed
out of a pagan ritual, seasonal rites,
202
00:27:30,560 --> 00:27:33,120
but then were absorbed
into the Christian thought
203
00:27:33,120 --> 00:27:37,520
and then assigned to a particular day
of a saint in a given village.
204
00:27:52,840 --> 00:27:57,720
Some say that the panigiri
is related to the god Pan.
205
00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:01,919
And, of course, others say
there is no relationship
206
00:28:01,919 --> 00:28:04,960
between the god Pan and the panigiri.
207
00:28:04,960 --> 00:28:08,480
I'd like to think that there is
a relationship between the two.
208
00:28:11,720 --> 00:28:15,919
Pan was reported to have passed away
209
00:28:15,919 --> 00:28:18,960
off of an island of Paxos.
210
00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:24,480
Uh, his death was conveyed to a sailor
who was on his way to Rome.
211
00:28:25,320 --> 00:28:28,199
When Pan's death was announced,
212
00:28:28,199 --> 00:28:31,120
that would have coincided
within a few years
213
00:28:31,120 --> 00:28:33,480
of the actual crucifixion of Christ,
214
00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:38,919
so, Pan died, Christ was resurrected.
215
00:28:39,879 --> 00:28:42,520
What we have now is Christ.
216
00:28:50,919 --> 00:28:56,240
The Zagorian panigiri
are held on the feast day
217
00:28:56,240 --> 00:28:59,560
of the patron saint of the village.
218
00:29:00,720 --> 00:29:03,080
The village church
is dedicated to a saint,
219
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,480
and here in Vitsa
we celebrate the Virgin Mary.
220
00:29:05,480 --> 00:29:07,679
So the panigiri is held on 15th August.
221
00:29:07,679 --> 00:29:12,800
In Kapesovo they celebrate
Saint Elijah on 20th July.
222
00:29:12,800 --> 00:29:16,560
In Monodendri
on the feast of Saint Paraskevi.
223
00:29:16,560 --> 00:29:20,399
In Tespelovo on the feast
of the Sleeping of the Virgin Mary.
224
00:29:22,320 --> 00:29:27,480
In Elati, Bultsi as it was known,
on the feast of the Holy Trinity.
225
00:29:27,480 --> 00:29:32,560
In Ano Pedina on 24th August,
the feast day of Saint Kosmas.
226
00:29:32,560 --> 00:29:38,000
In Kato Pedina on 29th August,
the second feast day of John the Baptist.
227
00:29:38,000 --> 00:29:41,679
Every village has a celebration
for its own patron saint
228
00:29:41,679 --> 00:29:44,639
and the last panigiri is held in Vradeto
229
00:29:44,639 --> 00:29:48,199
on 8th September celebrating
the birth of the blessed Virgin Mary.
230
00:29:48,199 --> 00:29:50,439
According
to the Orthodox calendar.
231
00:29:50,439 --> 00:29:56,280
Yes, as it was then.
In the old days, there were no cars.
232
00:29:56,280 --> 00:30:01,560
People went to the panigiri on foot
or by riding a mule.
233
00:30:01,560 --> 00:30:03,520
Do you remember?
234
00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:08,560
In the morning, we would leave
to go to Asprageli on foot.
235
00:30:08,560 --> 00:30:13,520
- There were no cars in those days.
- People would go on their animals.
236
00:30:13,520 --> 00:30:15,520
Even as young children we would go
237
00:30:15,520 --> 00:30:19,199
spend the evening there
and go home at daybreak.
238
00:30:19,199 --> 00:30:20,879
After the panigiri was over.
239
00:30:20,879 --> 00:30:22,800
We were afraid to travel at night
240
00:30:22,800 --> 00:30:26,280
so we would set out
for our village in the morning.
241
00:30:34,600 --> 00:30:37,280
- Where are the sheep?
- Come. I can't bring them up.
242
00:30:37,280 --> 00:30:39,439
We're coming in a minute.
243
00:30:39,439 --> 00:30:41,840
Come further down, that's where they stop.
244
00:30:41,840 --> 00:30:45,360
- We will. Where are they?
- They're heading this way right now.
245
00:30:45,360 --> 00:30:48,120
I've turned them around
and they're heading this way.
246
00:30:48,120 --> 00:30:49,840
Why don't you get
a walking stick like mine?
247
00:30:49,840 --> 00:30:51,360
I have a walking stick.
248
00:30:51,360 --> 00:30:53,840
You should have a proper one.
I'll get you one.
249
00:30:53,840 --> 00:30:58,560
- I'm happy with this one!
- A shepherd should get one of these!
250
00:30:58,560 --> 00:31:01,000
My father has one like that.
251
00:31:01,000 --> 00:31:04,439
Does he? You should use it.
I'll bring you an iron one.
252
00:31:04,439 --> 00:31:06,760
I have an iron one,
but I didn't bring it today.
253
00:31:06,760 --> 00:31:11,280
Are there any bears here?
Have you seen any?
254
00:31:11,280 --> 00:31:15,159
- No bears, but I've seen a wolf.
- What happened to the wolf?
255
00:31:15,159 --> 00:31:17,520
- The dogs chased the wolf.
- The dogs caught him?
256
00:31:17,520 --> 00:31:19,560
- Yes, and he was savaged.
- No kidding!
257
00:31:19,560 --> 00:31:22,560
- Savaged by the dogs!
- They finished him.
258
00:31:22,560 --> 00:31:26,159
They killed him. He tried to eat
the sheep and the dogs got him.
259
00:31:26,159 --> 00:31:28,320
Yes, the sheep
were resting in the shade.
260
00:31:28,320 --> 00:31:30,040
No kidding, and there he is.
261
00:31:30,040 --> 00:31:33,040
- I have it on video, but--
- They killed him?
262
00:31:33,040 --> 00:31:36,399
- They savaged him, right there.
- Well done.
263
00:31:36,399 --> 00:31:39,520
Without the dogs,
would the wolf have hurt the sheep?
264
00:31:39,520 --> 00:31:42,040
- For sure.
- How many dogs do you have?
265
00:31:42,040 --> 00:31:44,280
I had nine, but now I only have seven.
266
00:31:44,280 --> 00:31:46,320
What do you feed them?
267
00:31:46,320 --> 00:31:49,120
Dog food, bread...
268
00:31:49,120 --> 00:31:50,679
What can we do?
269
00:31:50,679 --> 00:31:52,919
They're good guard dogs.
270
00:31:52,919 --> 00:31:55,199
They protect the flock.
271
00:31:55,199 --> 00:31:57,439
How many sheep have you got?
272
00:31:57,439 --> 00:31:59,840
- Between 250 to 270 sheep...
- Well done.
273
00:31:59,840 --> 00:32:01,600
...and about 30 goats.
274
00:32:01,600 --> 00:32:05,320
- Do you still milk them?
- Once a day. Every morning.
275
00:32:05,320 --> 00:32:07,360
Skaro, in the winter, Skaro?
276
00:32:07,360 --> 00:32:11,000
- We milk at Skaro for three, four months.
- Three months continuously.
277
00:32:11,000 --> 00:32:13,719
- Why milk them at Skaro? Do they burn?
- Yeah, they're bloated with milk.
278
00:32:13,719 --> 00:32:15,600
They have too much,
you have to milk them often.
279
00:32:15,600 --> 00:32:17,840
They have a lot at that time of year.
280
00:32:20,080 --> 00:32:22,080
We should start heading towards the sheep.
281
00:32:22,080 --> 00:32:23,560
Yes, let's go.
282
00:32:24,560 --> 00:32:27,080
They'll stop down there to rest.
283
00:32:27,080 --> 00:32:29,840
You should warn us
so we approach them slowly.
284
00:32:31,000 --> 00:32:34,520
- The dogs won't attack us, will they?
- No, they're going back to the flock.
285
00:32:37,320 --> 00:32:39,080
- There's wild boars here too.
- Really?
286
00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:41,760
- They come to the pond.
- To drink the water?
287
00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:43,040
Yes.
288
00:32:55,679 --> 00:32:59,639
Skaros means "midnight grazing."
289
00:32:59,639 --> 00:33:05,480
The shepherds would take the sheep out
at night during the hottest times.
290
00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:09,560
Sheep would graze better
at night in the cool
291
00:33:09,560 --> 00:33:15,679
and the shepherds would play
the skaros on the flute to pass time.
292
00:33:16,360 --> 00:33:19,919
That's what skaros means, waking the flock
293
00:33:19,919 --> 00:33:26,480
and taking them to graze at night
when it's hot during the day.
294
00:34:25,159 --> 00:34:29,199
The music brings peace and relaxation.
295
00:34:29,199 --> 00:34:33,000
Ever since the age of seven or eight,
living in the village,
296
00:34:33,000 --> 00:34:37,199
I remember the panigiri was a big deal.
297
00:34:37,199 --> 00:34:40,080
We looked forward to it all year
298
00:34:40,080 --> 00:34:43,759
and as children we could watch,
299
00:34:43,759 --> 00:34:48,279
eat ravani from Maritsa, buy a toy or two.
300
00:34:48,279 --> 00:34:50,080
We didn't have many toys back then.
301
00:34:50,080 --> 00:34:56,279
Later when we grew up and reached the age
of 17 or so, then it was time for us to...
302
00:34:56,279 --> 00:34:58,440
We started to dance.
303
00:34:58,440 --> 00:35:01,680
We would join in
and try to learn the dance.
304
00:35:01,680 --> 00:35:06,440
We learnt them slowly at the panigiri
and gradually began to lead the dance.
305
00:35:06,440 --> 00:35:08,880
The Zagorian panigiria are different
306
00:35:08,880 --> 00:35:12,560
because they haven't lost
the traditional style.
307
00:35:12,560 --> 00:35:18,400
Where, in the surrounding areas,
Ioannina, Thesprotia,
308
00:35:18,400 --> 00:35:21,480
that isn't the case.
309
00:35:21,480 --> 00:35:25,279
People over there dance
with their friends and family separately,
310
00:35:25,279 --> 00:35:28,680
circles form everywhere, it's nothing!
311
00:35:28,680 --> 00:35:31,160
Over here we dance all together.
312
00:35:31,160 --> 00:35:34,279
Weddings in the past,
if there were no musicians,
313
00:35:34,279 --> 00:35:35,720
we would sing unaccompanied.
314
00:35:36,319 --> 00:35:40,960
Sarakatsani weddings, even if there's
no band, we would just sing.
315
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:47,799
Groups of men and women
would take turns singing.
316
00:35:47,799 --> 00:35:52,400
We would make a panigiri with our voices
and we would dance to our own singing.
317
00:35:52,400 --> 00:35:55,080
That's if we couldn't find musicians.
318
00:35:56,640 --> 00:36:02,720
We are Sarakatsani.
Stratos, the boy Apostolis, and me.
319
00:36:04,520 --> 00:36:07,480
- Will you play a Sarakatsani song?
- Okay.
320
00:36:07,480 --> 00:36:10,640
Play a Sarakatsani song.
321
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:14,480
Which one?
322
00:36:16,640 --> 00:36:20,040
"They Have Taken the Sheep."
323
00:38:28,839 --> 00:38:30,600
He's a very good butcher.
324
00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:09,440
This is the gift of Chris. For Chris.
325
00:39:09,440 --> 00:39:12,120
I told you when I first met you
326
00:39:12,120 --> 00:39:17,319
that you don't see people working with
their hands with the meat in America.
327
00:39:17,319 --> 00:39:18,839
It's sterilized.
328
00:39:18,839 --> 00:39:21,759
Everything is wrapped in plastic. Plastico.
329
00:39:21,759 --> 00:39:26,960
And that's the same way that I feel
about the music here, it's raw.
330
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:28,359
It's... It's not...
331
00:39:28,359 --> 00:39:30,359
There's no plastic over the music here.
332
00:39:30,359 --> 00:39:33,480
I'm going to say it in Greek, Chris.
333
00:39:34,359 --> 00:39:39,600
I like the fact that
we maintain tradition.
334
00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:42,799
We haven't lost tradition,
that's the main thing.
335
00:39:42,799 --> 00:39:48,040
Because you always know where
you'll start from in order to move on.
336
00:39:48,040 --> 00:39:51,240
You need to have a past.
337
00:39:52,160 --> 00:39:55,759
There isn't only the future,
there's the past, too.
338
00:39:56,720 --> 00:40:00,440
You need to know the past
in order to move into the future.
339
00:40:01,359 --> 00:40:03,319
It's never about the future alone.
340
00:40:04,920 --> 00:40:11,759
Music is life itself.
Sadness and happiness are both in it.
341
00:40:11,759 --> 00:40:14,240
- It's a healer?
- Yes, a healer, that's right.
342
00:40:14,240 --> 00:40:20,640
Whatever you do,
good, bad, ugly, nice, music is there.
343
00:40:22,279 --> 00:40:26,920
If you're sad, you listen to music.
If you're happy, you listen to music.
344
00:40:26,920 --> 00:40:29,880
And when it comes to death, again...
345
00:40:29,880 --> 00:40:31,400
A balsam to the soul.
346
00:40:31,400 --> 00:40:35,640
That's right. We have so many mirologia
from where I come from that are amazing.
347
00:40:36,839 --> 00:40:39,440
Especially because I am a Sarakatsan.
348
00:40:39,440 --> 00:40:43,160
Regarding mirologia, we Sarakatsani people
349
00:40:44,120 --> 00:40:45,680
have some amazing stuff.
350
00:40:47,120 --> 00:40:49,359
I went to a funeral.
351
00:40:49,359 --> 00:40:53,080
Actually, it was my grandmother's funeral.
352
00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:56,880
Five old Sarakatsani women
did the keening of the mirologia,
353
00:40:56,880 --> 00:41:00,080
and it was something else, believe me.
354
00:41:00,080 --> 00:41:01,880
These things still exist?
355
00:41:01,880 --> 00:41:06,520
Yes,
because we know where we come from.
356
00:41:06,520 --> 00:41:08,839
We aren't neo-Greeks.
357
00:41:10,640 --> 00:41:13,759
I wish I could
play him the Alexis Zoumbas
358
00:41:13,759 --> 00:41:17,680
to see how he reacted to it,
since nobody here has ever heard it.
359
00:41:17,680 --> 00:41:19,040
Zoumbas?
360
00:41:20,520 --> 00:41:23,279
I can play it. On Wi-Fi?
361
00:41:24,520 --> 00:41:25,759
Is it on YouTube?
362
00:41:25,759 --> 00:41:28,160
- Is it on YouTube?
- It's on YouTube, yeah.
363
00:41:28,160 --> 00:41:29,720
Alexis Zoumbas.
364
00:41:36,520 --> 00:41:39,600
Alexis Zoumbas. Listen.
365
00:41:42,000 --> 00:41:43,560
Can I turn up the volume?
366
00:41:48,160 --> 00:41:51,200
- Sorry.
- I have to start it all over again.
367
00:42:12,880 --> 00:42:16,520
Is it from the 1960s or the '70s?
368
00:42:16,520 --> 00:42:19,160
He's asking when it was recorded.
369
00:42:19,880 --> 00:42:22,040
- In '60?
- Oh, uh, 1926.
370
00:42:25,600 --> 00:42:27,319
New York.
371
00:42:27,319 --> 00:42:28,799
No way, man.
372
00:42:38,160 --> 00:42:42,920
He died poor. He died poor.
373
00:42:46,920 --> 00:42:49,359
He died poor, he says.
374
00:42:49,359 --> 00:42:51,240
Very poor.
375
00:42:51,240 --> 00:42:53,440
That's the reality in Greece.
376
00:42:54,600 --> 00:42:56,600
There's no place for the good.
377
00:43:05,880 --> 00:43:09,560
Oh, man, it makes the hair
stand on my arms, what can I say?
378
00:43:12,279 --> 00:43:15,920
That's what it's supposed to do.
Puts the hair up on your arms.
379
00:43:27,600 --> 00:43:30,279
- It's to die for, isn't it?
- Yeah.
380
00:43:33,200 --> 00:43:34,879
Only to...
381
00:43:54,960 --> 00:43:59,040
Truly, these mirologia
really hit you.
382
00:43:59,759 --> 00:44:01,480
They fuck you up.
383
00:44:02,480 --> 00:44:03,920
Put a beep sound there.
384
00:44:17,759 --> 00:44:20,120
- Drink tsipouro?
- Of course.
385
00:44:30,560 --> 00:44:32,920
Yamas.
386
00:44:32,920 --> 00:44:36,799
- The meat is very good.
- It's the best meat.
387
00:45:05,480 --> 00:45:09,480
The mirologia are songs about
388
00:45:10,799 --> 00:45:13,879
loss, suffering, they carry grief.
389
00:45:14,720 --> 00:45:17,080
That's why they're called mirologia.
390
00:45:17,080 --> 00:45:19,400
That's the reason we play them.
391
00:45:19,400 --> 00:45:22,200
We still play them nowadays.
392
00:45:22,200 --> 00:45:24,759
We play them when someone passes away.
393
00:45:24,759 --> 00:45:28,400
People at the panigiri
can ask for a miroloi,
394
00:45:28,400 --> 00:45:33,640
not at the peak of the dance
but in the morning.
395
00:45:35,400 --> 00:45:38,640
"Play a miroloi for those
who have passed on, Grigoris."
396
00:45:38,640 --> 00:45:40,440
So I play a miroloi.
397
00:45:47,560 --> 00:45:50,960
Okay. Okay.
398
00:46:06,920 --> 00:46:12,000
It was a deeply life-altering experience
399
00:46:12,000 --> 00:46:15,480
when I realized that there was something
400
00:46:15,480 --> 00:46:19,680
that had been able to survive
the ravages of time and change.
401
00:46:19,680 --> 00:46:22,720
Modernism, globalism, everything.
402
00:46:23,960 --> 00:46:27,600
That something stayed
here relatively pure,
403
00:46:27,600 --> 00:46:30,960
whereas everything else
had died on the vine.
404
00:46:35,759 --> 00:46:39,279
The panigiri,
that's sort of like the stage
405
00:46:39,279 --> 00:46:42,520
upon which all of our emotions
are played out.
406
00:46:42,520 --> 00:46:45,680
You have loss and remembrance
at the beginning
407
00:46:45,680 --> 00:46:48,640
and you have loss
and remembrance at the end.
408
00:46:48,640 --> 00:46:52,879
What occurs between
is precisely the folly that we all have,
409
00:46:52,879 --> 00:46:56,200
it's the human experience,
it's exuberance.
410
00:46:57,440 --> 00:46:59,960
But when you actually sit back
and think about it,
411
00:46:59,960 --> 00:47:04,160
you have memory and regret,
at the beginning, at the end.
412
00:47:34,279 --> 00:47:38,759
The miroloi seems to open up
413
00:47:38,759 --> 00:47:42,440
all the wounds that I thought
were healed at one point,
414
00:47:42,440 --> 00:47:46,319
but they kind of had only
a superficial clotting.
415
00:47:47,720 --> 00:47:50,400
They actually had
a rawness underneath them.
416
00:47:50,400 --> 00:47:55,680
When I hear the miroloi, it seems to more
fully address these wounds that we have.
417
00:49:43,040 --> 00:49:47,040
During most of the year,
with the exception of a couple of weeks,
418
00:49:47,040 --> 00:49:52,279
there's only a few dozen villagers
there in Vitsa at any given time.
419
00:49:52,279 --> 00:49:54,440
It's only during the panigiri
420
00:49:54,440 --> 00:49:57,960
that suddenly you have
several thousand people visiting.
421
00:49:58,839 --> 00:50:02,680
Xenitia is this notion of having to leave,
422
00:50:02,680 --> 00:50:06,200
having to estrange oneself
from one's home soil
423
00:50:06,200 --> 00:50:08,200
to go make a living elsewhere.
424
00:50:08,200 --> 00:50:12,400
And even though
it's a universal Greek concept,
425
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:15,399
it's particularly deeply felt
in Epirus and in Vitsa
426
00:50:15,399 --> 00:50:19,920
because so many people
have to leave and work elsewhere.
427
00:50:19,920 --> 00:50:25,200
And so whenever they have a chance,
they fly back home like migrant birds.
428
00:57:14,919 --> 00:57:16,040
Whoo!
429
00:58:27,640 --> 00:58:29,919
The dancer and I, we interconnect.
430
00:58:29,919 --> 00:58:35,839
Because we're the same,
the dancer and I, exactly the same.
431
00:58:35,839 --> 00:58:38,440
- One soul.
- One soul.
432
00:58:38,440 --> 00:58:43,680
The dancer and the music are like
433
00:58:43,680 --> 00:58:48,200
the warp and weft of fabric.
434
00:58:48,200 --> 00:58:51,160
You know how the warp and weft interlock?
It's like that.
435
01:01:34,440 --> 01:01:37,960
Around 2,000 years ago,
in what is now Turkey
436
01:01:37,960 --> 01:01:41,359
but what was then
Greek-speaking Asia Minor,
437
01:01:41,359 --> 01:01:42,839
a lady died.
438
01:01:42,839 --> 01:01:47,560
Her name was Euterpe and her husband
commissioned a memorial.
439
01:01:47,560 --> 01:01:51,120
Written in stone are these words:
440
01:01:55,720 --> 01:01:58,440
"While you live, shine."
441
01:01:58,440 --> 01:02:00,600
"Have no mourning at all."
442
01:02:00,600 --> 01:02:04,879
"Life exists a short while
and time demands its fee."
443
01:02:06,359 --> 01:02:10,480
It's the earliest known
written musical composition in the world,
444
01:02:10,480 --> 01:02:13,799
and what you hear
in those lines and verses
445
01:02:13,799 --> 01:02:16,720
is the same as what
you would hear sung as a miroloi
446
01:02:16,720 --> 01:02:20,120
or played as an instrumental
in the mountains of Epirus.
447
01:02:46,720 --> 01:02:50,160
To me, the music there embraces
life and death equally.
448
01:02:50,160 --> 01:02:53,680
It celebrates both.
It knows what they are.
449
01:02:55,160 --> 01:02:59,440
The music in Epirus calls a spade a spade.
450
01:03:47,359 --> 01:03:50,759
I fear for the future of this music
just like I fear for the future.
451
01:03:50,759 --> 01:03:52,200
Everything changes.
452
01:03:52,200 --> 01:03:53,680
Uh...
453
01:03:53,680 --> 01:03:59,600
Possibly people here may be enticed
with the riches of the Western world,
454
01:03:59,600 --> 01:04:03,319
and once they leave their villages,
they may never come back.
455
01:04:03,319 --> 01:04:07,040
If that happens, then that would be
the death knell for the music.
456
01:04:07,040 --> 01:04:11,439
Uh, the only hope I have is that so far,
that's not really occurred.
457
01:04:12,640 --> 01:04:14,640
- So far?
- So far.
458
01:04:14,640 --> 01:04:16,359
Will it?
459
01:04:16,359 --> 01:04:20,960
I don't know, I mean,
is there that much that's enticing
460
01:04:20,960 --> 01:04:24,319
about the Western world
that you'd forget your blood soil?
461
01:04:25,560 --> 01:04:28,120
- Yeah.
- Like what?
462
01:04:28,120 --> 01:04:30,600
Well, people like comfort,
they like money,
463
01:04:30,600 --> 01:04:34,439
they like, you know, TV,
they like pop music.
464
01:04:34,439 --> 01:04:37,200
- They like all kinds of things.
- Yeah, but that's all garbage.
465
01:04:37,200 --> 01:04:40,240
Uh, you have everything
you need in the village.
466
01:04:40,240 --> 01:04:44,040
Maybe you don't have money,
but you have comfort, you have family.
467
01:04:44,040 --> 01:04:46,680
You have cosmos.
468
01:04:48,640 --> 01:04:52,520
Uh, the last question.
Are you really gonna move here?
469
01:04:52,520 --> 01:04:55,720
Yeah, of course. It's not an idle threat.
470
01:04:57,040 --> 01:05:00,799
- When? When are you gonna move?
- As soon as I fucking can.
471
01:05:00,799 --> 01:05:05,399
Uh... as soon as I can.
472
01:14:31,599 --> 01:14:33,440
Start carving it.
473
01:14:35,160 --> 01:14:36,719
I don't have a knife!
474
01:14:36,719 --> 01:14:39,880
- Want me to get one?
- It can't be carved otherwise!
475
01:14:39,880 --> 01:14:42,280
There's a small knife
in a bowl over there.
476
01:14:42,280 --> 01:14:44,440
I need a knife to carve it!
477
01:14:45,080 --> 01:14:47,000
It's small, but it works miracles!
478
01:14:47,000 --> 01:14:48,440
It cuts very well!
479
01:14:49,880 --> 01:14:51,559
Don't eat anything yet.
480
01:14:51,559 --> 01:14:53,519
Wait, this knife cuts better.
481
01:14:55,679 --> 01:14:58,599
Bravo to the chef! Chef, well done!
482
01:14:59,200 --> 01:15:01,000
Finished with the pliers?
483
01:15:01,000 --> 01:15:02,480
Cut right here.
484
01:15:05,200 --> 01:15:10,760
Let me know when you're ready
so I can call people to eat.
485
01:15:10,760 --> 01:15:14,760
Knives, the knives,
look at all the knives!
486
01:15:14,760 --> 01:15:16,480
Medieval years!
487
01:15:17,080 --> 01:15:19,320
Zorba would have eaten like this!
488
01:15:20,679 --> 01:15:22,599
Chris!
489
01:15:22,599 --> 01:15:23,800
Where is Chris?
490
01:15:30,080 --> 01:15:31,440
Hey, Chris.
491
01:15:33,040 --> 01:15:35,360
What will people think
when they watch this?
492
01:15:35,360 --> 01:15:37,960
"These people are a hundred years behind!"
39323
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