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hey it's Rich the Louisiana hobby guy. you know
my last video I talked about kerf offset and it
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just stimulated a whole rash of messages that I
got uh asking about why my circles are in circles
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my squares aren't squares my boxes don't fit in
to get fit together my box joints and today we're
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going to talk about that just by running a simple
calibration in light burn and I'm going to show
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you how to do these how to calibrate your laser
so that your circles are circles your squares are
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squares so uh let's get started okay so I've
got my wood set up I checked it on the camera
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this is in the right spot it's going to cut out
of the top left corner the only thing that I've
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got left to do now is I need to just set my cut
real quick and this is Basswood two millimeter cut
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go ahead and assign that to the layer and we're
ready to run this job so I'm gonna run this job
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and cut out this 150 by 150 and then we're gonna
go and measure it and make our adjustments so I'm
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just going to come over here and hit start I've
got everything turned on the air assist is on
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the machine is on we're ready to go lasers on
air assist on Focus set everything's good so I
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can just say yes and go ahead and run the job and
there you can see it's cutting it out just fine
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I'm Gonna Leave This in real time and if you're
interested the cut settings are 600 speed 50 power
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that is the recommended settings for two
millimeter Basswood as you can see it's
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hotter on the sides than it is going across
the X so the Y is a perfect cut through
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as compared to the X which
does a little more flashing
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and it's almost finished and we can
go and take a look at our cut out
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and see what we got now there you can see the
x is a little more flashing in the background
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and we're finished so let's go ahead and go
over and measure it now and see what we get
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all right here's our final product all right
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take it out and what I'm going to do now is let
me close this door I can't turn off the uh laser
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because then we won't be able to get to the
actual settings so what I'm going to do is
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move this camera up just a little bit like
that and this is our final cut piece right here
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so I'm going to take my digital caliper I'm going
to make sure that it zeros properly and you really
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do need to have a good digital caliper to do
this I have my Harbor Freight one which isn't
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very accurate uh so that's I like this one I'll
put a link down below if you're interested in
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seeing this one but so I'm going to come out
to the one 150 and this is what I do so now
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I take six different measurements so as you can
see I've got 149.73 there I've got 149 .64 here
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149.69 here so I just take 149.40 there just
take six different measurements on the Y and
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then I flip it over and do the X and I really
shouldn't do that uh that was the x that I did
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okay so now I have to do the Y this way you
have to keep the orientation proper as well
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so I've got 149.36 you can see
they're pretty close 149.62
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149.55 so I'm going to write down all of
these measurements now and I'm going to
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do an average of all of those measurements
I'm going to actually redo this off camera
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write down all the measurements and then use
the averages to go ahead and set the curve or
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excuse me to set the calibration okay so
here we go uh here are the final results
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on the Y I came up with 149.71 as the
average and on the X I came up with 149.55
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so that's actually very close this is
a you know factory default on this 8
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or 20 watt but let's go ahead and make
this even better and fix this so now in
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your case you know your numbers may be off
you may wind up with a 149 you might be a
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whole full millimeter off in One Direction
or the other so let's come up here to the
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top menu over here and let's click on edit and
go to machine settings down here on the bottom
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when we bring up the machine settings you're going
to see a function here called calibrate access
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why do I keep saying access calibrate axis we're
going to click on that now it's going to say
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calibration of axis x what were you asking for so
requested distance my requested distance was 150.
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and what did it produce so now we're
on the X so I have to put in 149.55
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and now you'll see the correction
is being done down here this is
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a queued change so we're going
to write this to the controller
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so we're going to click right and that is
now done and I always click right again
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even though it says uh it was done I click right
control the settings written successfully now
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I'm going to click calibrate axis one more time
this time I'm going to pull down and do the y
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axis on it my requested distance again is going
to be the same at 150 and on the Y I got 149.71
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so I'll put that in here 149.71 and there is our
change I'm going to hit right and then I'm going
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to hit right one more time so it says controller
settings written successfully what I can do now is
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save these controller settings just so that I have
a backup of the file I would hit save and go to my
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drive that has I'm not going to do that right now
I'll do that offline but just go ahead and save
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your controller settings so that you have them
for the future in case you switch computers or
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something like that so now we can say OK and
we're going to run this job one more time so
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let me go load some new material into the laser
and run this job again and look at the results
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all right so here are the results of the second
cut test as you can see I've got 150.09 150.10
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150.11 on the Y which works out to 150.01 I just
did it three times this time because I knew it
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would be more accurate than the first test and
then on the X I also came very close 150.03 so
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that was the average of all three of those and now
I know that I am close enough uh to run accurate
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jobs so this makes me feel very comfortable that
I'm close enough I could go back into the machine
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settings and put these numbers in and calibrate it
one more time and I probably will um but you know
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this this is close enough for government work
as far as I'm concerned here and I think we've
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got uh probably as close to Accurate as we're
going to get and keep in mind that your focus
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has a lot to do with this as well uh those little
uh tents and hundredths that it's off so uh if
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your focus is not perfect then your measurements
are not going to be perfect so you don't want to
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refocus the machine while you're doing this test
or change any of the variables that are involved
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all right so a lot of people are probably thinking
well why do I need to do this mine is pretty close
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what's the difference between you know 149.5 6 and
150. well there's no difference if you're cutting
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a square that's this big but if you're cutting
something that might be the size of your work bed
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that little uh you know Point whatever that it's
off gets exponentially larger the bigger that you
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go so if you have like for instance a 400 by 400
work area and let's say you want to cut something
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that's 17 inches across well by the time you
reached at 17 inches you know that that half of a
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millimeter that it's off turns into a much bigger
number and if you're putting Parts together if
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you're doing modeling or anything like that you're
going to notice that difference and you're going
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to have to compensate for it maybe by shaving down
some pieces of the wood to get it to fit together
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and you really don't want to do any of that the
a CNC control board is capable of following your
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commands combining this with my last video with
the kerf well you know you're right out the gate
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you're not going to be able to do a 150 by 150
square or 100 by 100 square because of the kerf
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so it is a good idea on every machine to
run this calibration test I mean you saw
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it doesn't take long very very simple to do
you know uh just cutting a square marking it
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down so this is the first one that I did and I
got 149.71 on the Y and I got 149.55 on the X
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now and that's the average of all these numbers
and the taking the average is important as well
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um because it does it does change as it moves with
the grain and things like that so the average is
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going to give you a more accurate number but um
now on this one here it seems if you put them side
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by side they seem to be exactly the same size on
top of each other but they're really not because
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this one here was adjusted and this one is exactly
I say exactly 150.01 by 150.03 so that in you know
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as far as I'm concerned that's 150 millimeters
I could go back again and readjust these numbers
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and recalibrate one more time and cut another
square and probably get that both of them down
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to 150.01 just by redoing the X so you know you
can you can get really Precision Cuts using any
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laser as long as you have your axises your axes I
just have such a hard time with that word as long
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as you have your axes calibrated properly you can
get 100 accurate cuts and we're not talking about
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doing a four foot by eight foot you know bed
laser here we're talking about a regular hobby
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laser CO2 laser you know something that's not uh
a sheet laser so the sheet lasers you absolutely
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have to be have to have 100 calibration and of
course you know there are other things too on
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your CO2 your backlash some manufacturers set up
a backlash number on it that you know throws these
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numbers off so check in your controller and see
what your backlash is it should be set to zero
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um now mine came set to 0.02 and which kind of
puzzled me and I don't know why it was set that
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way but that's the way it was set 0.02 on the
Ruida so I actually wound up resetting that to
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.00 and running my calibration test and making
the adjustments in light burn which I think
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is the best way to do it we're designing in
light burn you know it should be calibrated
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for light burns now let's talk about for a minute
about the other factors that are involved here
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such as on your diode laser your eccentric nuts as
an example I know a lot of people don't understand
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what an eccentric nut is so let's cover that real
quickly Centric nut is basically when you turn the
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nut on the other side of that nut there's a circle
a piece of metal and it's thicker on one side and
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thinner on the other side so as you turn it puts
pressure up against the plate that holds that
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wheel gusset in place and the as you turn it it'll
get tighter and because that thicker part will
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come up and it'll tighten it up so that it doesn't
wobble and then if you keep turning it it'll get
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you'll get to the thinner part and it'll get loose
again so you can turn it forever and it'll get
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tighter looser tighter looser as you go around so
um you know that a lot of people don't understand
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stand that so you have when you adjust that
eccentric nut you've got to turn it and try and
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Wobble the uh housing as you go and when as soon
as the wobble stops that's where you stop turning
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that nut because if you keep turning it it's going
to start wobbling again so that's one thing are
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The Eccentric nuts so before you do these tests
you want to make sure that your eccentric nuts
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are adjusted properly and then on all lasers make
sure that your belts are adjusted properly and
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make sure that especially on diodes that your
frame is square you know run a square test get
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a regular framing square put it in the corners
make so you got to have a square frame you got
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to have adjusted belts you have to have adjusted
eccentric nuts before you can even start this test
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real easy calibration to do on your laser very
simple nothing complicated about this anyone
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can do it if you just follow the Steps step
by step and I you know I guarantee you that
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if you want your boxes to come out boxes
and to be perfectly lined up on the joints
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then you're going to need to calibrate your laser
that's all there is to it do this calibration test
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on all of your lasers when you first get it and
you want to also do the calibration test on a
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regular basis so if you do like a semi-annual
adjusting and cleaning and all that kind of
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stuff do your calibration test at the same time
because with lasers all lasers whether it's CO2
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or diode you're going to have some variations
over time and use and the reason why you get
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those variations is because you have your timing
gear teeth and you have your especially if you're
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using bi-directional scan and you have your timing
belts and what happens is when it scans to the
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right and then turns Direction you get a little
bit of belt climb on those teeth which wears the
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belt and then of course the belt stretches and
anytime you adjust your belts you're going to
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need to recalibrate create your laser you have
to compensate for on a regular basis you have
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to check this for belt wear for a belt climb
you know where the teeth take away some of the
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material on the actual uh timing belts themselves
on co2 lasers for the backlash there are several
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reasons why you have to do this and it's something
that should be done on a regular basis incorporate
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this as part of your regular maintenance and on
some users if you're doing this as a business and
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you're running a lot of projects I would suggest
that running this test on a monthly basis to make
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sure that all of your projects are going to be
a hundred percent accurate so remember a CNC
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machine is capable of 100 percent accuracy so
why not make sure that your projects are 100 to
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scale so anyway I hope you learned something from
this video today I hope you enjoyed it as much as
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I enjoyed making it for you and as always I thank
you for watching and I'll see you in the next one20780
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