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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,922 --> 00:00:07,792 - They didn't expect to see what they saw, 2 00:00:11,311 --> 00:00:15,771 and when they saw it, they could never forget it. 3 00:00:21,988 --> 00:00:23,788 Ferdinand Hayden was hired to lead a team 4 00:00:23,823 --> 00:00:25,483 into the Northwest Territories 5 00:00:28,695 --> 00:00:30,005 and the 32 men headed west. 6 00:00:35,952 --> 00:00:38,642 They weren't here to protect Yellowstone. 7 00:00:38,671 --> 00:00:42,191 They were here to tear it to shreds in the name of progress, 8 00:00:43,376 --> 00:00:48,426 gold interests, railroad barons, the Congress. 9 00:00:50,366 --> 00:00:52,736 Powerful people wanted this land for themselves. 10 00:00:56,656 --> 00:00:59,106 But something happened during their three month journey, 11 00:01:02,345 --> 00:01:07,345 and slowly but surely, their mission changed. 12 00:01:09,953 --> 00:01:12,493 So as we celebrate the 150th anniversary 13 00:01:12,522 --> 00:01:16,492 of Yellowstone National Park, we take a look back in time 14 00:01:18,278 --> 00:01:20,458 at the events that led to the preservation 15 00:01:23,650 --> 00:01:24,770 of this magical place. 16 00:02:21,207 --> 00:02:24,527 Sometimes I think 17 00:02:24,561 --> 00:02:26,831 about the things I'm gonna miss most when I finally 18 00:02:26,863 --> 00:02:28,433 have to walk away. 19 00:02:43,897 --> 00:02:45,477 Not just my family that I'll think of, 20 00:02:45,515 --> 00:02:50,415 but it'll be the books I never read, the music I never hear 21 00:02:57,443 --> 00:02:59,883 and sometimes the stories that I wished I would've known. 22 00:03:03,483 --> 00:03:06,493 Most of us walk through life and myself, admittedly, 23 00:03:06,519 --> 00:03:07,289 I do the same thing, 24 00:03:07,320 --> 00:03:09,990 without really getting below the surface. 25 00:03:19,148 --> 00:03:22,648 When I was younger, I saw pictures of Yellowstone 26 00:03:22,685 --> 00:03:28,065 and I thought, Could there be a place like this in the world 27 00:03:33,062 --> 00:03:34,902 where these rivers cut through these mountains 28 00:03:34,931 --> 00:03:36,371 that were so high and 29 00:03:37,984 --> 00:03:40,974 the animals, 30 00:03:41,004 --> 00:03:42,874 you'd see them by the thousands? 31 00:03:47,644 --> 00:03:52,684 I remember when I got my first glimpse of the mountains. 32 00:03:57,921 --> 00:03:59,661 I had to take a breath. 33 00:04:01,491 --> 00:04:05,061 I began to understand what was so special about it. 34 00:04:06,596 --> 00:04:10,946 And when I read what it took for Yellowstone to be here 35 00:04:10,984 --> 00:04:13,444 so that we could all enjoy it, I realized 36 00:04:13,469 --> 00:04:15,959 that this was a story that I suddenly wanted to share. 37 00:04:22,262 --> 00:04:23,856 I think everyone in their life at some point thinks, 38 00:04:23,880 --> 00:04:25,350 I wanna change the world 39 00:04:26,532 --> 00:04:28,822 but it's rare to actually come across a true story 40 00:04:28,851 --> 00:04:30,371 of people who did. 41 00:04:34,407 --> 00:04:36,418 This was a time in America where all people cared about 42 00:04:36,442 --> 00:04:39,662 was what they could extract from the land, 43 00:04:39,696 --> 00:04:40,976 what they could get out of it. 44 00:04:43,583 --> 00:04:48,303 But these pioneers, they came up with an entirely new idea, 45 00:04:48,338 --> 00:04:50,418 a new way of finding value in the land. 46 00:04:54,010 --> 00:04:55,430 I wanna see what they saw. 47 00:04:56,896 --> 00:04:58,296 I wanna see what changed them. 48 00:05:53,353 --> 00:05:56,043 You know, I heard it was the 150th anniversary 49 00:05:56,072 --> 00:05:59,492 of Yellowstone National Park. 50 00:05:59,525 --> 00:06:04,345 First thing I thought was, how's a park have an anniversary? 51 00:06:06,315 --> 00:06:10,985 What actually happened here 150 years ago? 52 00:06:11,904 --> 00:06:13,394 So I started to look into it. 53 00:06:14,891 --> 00:06:16,391 It's just an amazing story. 54 00:06:20,480 --> 00:06:25,370 Back in the early 1870s, all this land you see around here, 55 00:06:26,686 --> 00:06:28,136 it's being claimed up by miners. 56 00:06:29,205 --> 00:06:31,005 The stories about this place 57 00:06:31,040 --> 00:06:34,340 started making their way back east. 58 00:06:35,862 --> 00:06:38,352 Eventually, Congress caught wind of it. 59 00:06:39,649 --> 00:06:40,969 You guys ready? 60 00:06:58,201 --> 00:07:00,041 Congress commissioned Ferdinand Hayden 61 00:07:00,069 --> 00:07:02,159 to go investigate Yellowstone. 62 00:07:04,257 --> 00:07:06,957 He recruited some of the best geologists, cartographers 63 00:07:06,993 --> 00:07:09,063 and zoologists in the world. 64 00:07:11,030 --> 00:07:12,870 He also brought along a photographer 65 00:07:12,899 --> 00:07:15,989 and a painter to document their findings. 66 00:07:18,855 --> 00:07:20,685 And the 32 men headed west. 67 00:07:29,515 --> 00:07:33,295 Their mission was twofold, the search for mineral exploits 68 00:07:33,336 --> 00:07:35,246 that could benefit the American people 69 00:07:36,839 --> 00:07:38,369 and to find a path to build a railroad 70 00:07:39,976 --> 00:07:41,003 that would connect the Mississippi River 71 00:07:41,027 --> 00:07:42,807 to the Pacific Ocean. 72 00:07:53,940 --> 00:07:55,540 They weren't here to protect Yellowstone. 73 00:07:56,676 --> 00:07:59,396 They were here to tear it to shreds in the name of progress. 74 00:08:01,614 --> 00:08:04,434 But something happened during that three month journey. 75 00:08:07,069 --> 00:08:12,059 This place, it did something to him, got inside him 76 00:08:15,444 --> 00:08:20,024 and slowly but surely started to change their minds. 77 00:08:23,903 --> 00:08:25,393 And that's why it's still here. 78 00:08:27,773 --> 00:08:31,093 Yeah, she's still here. 79 00:08:37,066 --> 00:08:39,336 The Hayden Expedition resulted in the creation 80 00:08:39,368 --> 00:08:44,288 of the National Park system, Yellowstone being the first. 81 00:08:47,944 --> 00:08:51,034 Now there are over 4,000 worldwide 82 00:08:51,063 --> 00:08:52,603 and over two million square miles 83 00:08:52,632 --> 00:08:56,052 of pristine nature that are protected from destruction. 84 00:09:02,024 --> 00:09:03,304 Those are some big boots to fill, 85 00:09:04,977 --> 00:09:07,227 but I'm walking in the shadow of the pioneers, 86 00:09:08,598 --> 00:09:10,068 following the trail they blazed 87 00:09:10,099 --> 00:09:12,049 as detailed in two journals kept 88 00:09:12,084 --> 00:09:14,904 by members of the expedition 89 00:09:14,937 --> 00:09:17,087 and 10 letters that Hayden himself wrote. 90 00:09:21,027 --> 00:09:23,077 Does Yellowstone look the same today 91 00:09:23,112 --> 00:09:25,972 as they described in these journals 150 years ago? 92 00:09:30,486 --> 00:09:31,116 Let's find out. 93 00:09:39,128 --> 00:09:40,958 The explorers' first look at Yellowstone 94 00:09:40,997 --> 00:09:43,197 was on the morning of July 16th, 95 00:09:46,152 --> 00:09:48,502 collecting fossils on one of the mountain peaks 96 00:09:48,537 --> 00:09:49,917 of the Gallatin Range. 97 00:09:52,191 --> 00:09:54,961 They looked south and saw the Yellowstone River 98 00:09:57,029 --> 00:09:59,179 winding through its valley in the distance. 99 00:10:01,851 --> 00:10:03,241 They knew they'd arrived. 100 00:10:19,118 --> 00:10:21,498 Fed by runoff from the snowy mountain peaks, 101 00:10:23,189 --> 00:10:25,269 the Yellowstone River is the lifeblood of the park. 102 00:10:27,176 --> 00:10:30,246 Nearly 700 miles from end to end, 103 00:10:31,514 --> 00:10:34,124 it's the longest free flowing river in America. 104 00:10:40,990 --> 00:10:43,060 No dams have ever been built on it, 105 00:10:44,093 --> 00:10:46,213 leaving the Yellowstone every bit as wild 106 00:10:46,245 --> 00:10:49,995 and untamed as it was when Hayden first saw it. 107 00:10:54,286 --> 00:10:56,166 The Yellowstone moves east and south 108 00:10:56,205 --> 00:10:58,135 through this part of the park, 109 00:10:59,358 --> 00:11:02,758 before branching off into a 40 mile long tributary 110 00:11:02,795 --> 00:11:04,145 called the Lamar River. 111 00:11:06,198 --> 00:11:08,228 This leads straight to the fertile valley 112 00:11:08,267 --> 00:11:11,037 that is the mecca of Northern American wildlife. 113 00:11:27,653 --> 00:11:31,313 Lamar Valley is often referred to as the American Serengeti. 114 00:11:36,395 --> 00:11:40,265 The abundant tall grasses and endless supply of fresh water 115 00:11:40,299 --> 00:11:43,349 is everything the prey species in the area could ask for. 116 00:11:45,971 --> 00:11:47,421 And as they flood 117 00:11:47,456 --> 00:11:51,226 into a one mile wide and 20 mile long wildlife court, 118 00:11:53,279 --> 00:11:57,069 they're followed by predators of all shapes and sizes. 119 00:12:23,225 --> 00:12:25,925 The wildlife in Lamar Valley seemed to have an impact 120 00:12:25,961 --> 00:12:27,251 on the Hayden Expedition. 121 00:12:30,082 --> 00:12:32,332 On one hand, the journal entries still refer 122 00:12:32,368 --> 00:12:37,068 to the viability of mining the area, but on the other hand, 123 00:12:40,159 --> 00:12:43,329 they wrote about the abundance of elk and deer 124 00:12:43,362 --> 00:12:46,622 and more frequent run-ins with Yellowstone's alpha predator, 125 00:12:51,537 --> 00:12:53,017 the grizzly bear. 126 00:12:55,341 --> 00:12:58,861 Over 700 live within the park's borders today. 127 00:13:01,213 --> 00:13:05,133 It's a healthy population and it takes 22,000 pounds 128 00:13:05,167 --> 00:13:08,167 of meat each day to keep them all fed. 129 00:13:17,062 --> 00:13:19,232 These elk aren't volunteering for the job 130 00:13:21,801 --> 00:13:24,121 but this hungry bear doesn't care. 131 00:13:57,036 --> 00:13:59,136 The herd has the advantage of speed 132 00:14:03,192 --> 00:14:05,962 and the bear can't keep up his chase for very long. 133 00:14:24,179 --> 00:14:26,799 But in the chaos, a calf gets separated from the herd. 134 00:14:32,955 --> 00:14:34,805 The calf opts to hide, 135 00:14:41,764 --> 00:14:43,534 and the grizzly searches. 136 00:15:11,293 --> 00:15:13,963 If she moves, she'll be an easy meal for the grizzly. 137 00:15:56,188 --> 00:15:58,668 She wins this round of hide and seek. 138 00:16:01,293 --> 00:16:04,483 Mom calls out to find her offspring. 139 00:16:20,145 --> 00:16:23,175 This is life in the Lamar Valley. 140 00:16:37,496 --> 00:16:40,016 Hayden and his men weren't here for wildlife watching 141 00:16:41,567 --> 00:16:47,017 so they had to move on, pushing further into the unknown. 142 00:17:49,418 --> 00:17:53,568 Sometimes I think about the spirit of the great explorers, 143 00:17:53,605 --> 00:17:56,785 you know, what it takes to be the first to do something, 144 00:17:56,825 --> 00:17:59,325 to journey into the unknown. 145 00:18:00,879 --> 00:18:02,579 I mean, these guys had a job to do 146 00:18:02,614 --> 00:18:04,004 and that was to keep going. 147 00:18:04,833 --> 00:18:06,223 But as they headed south, 148 00:18:06,251 --> 00:18:08,141 they started to hear a roar in the distance. 149 00:18:14,777 --> 00:18:16,177 Imagine making your camp right here, 150 00:18:16,879 --> 00:18:18,529 having no idea what would be waiting 151 00:18:18,564 --> 00:18:19,924 for you to come sunrise. 152 00:18:26,271 --> 00:18:28,311 You know, when you follow a river for long enough, 153 00:18:30,175 --> 00:18:32,155 you're bound to run into a waterfall. 154 00:18:36,165 --> 00:18:37,075 The one that the Hayden party found 155 00:18:37,116 --> 00:18:41,136 on their way was a monster. 156 00:18:48,227 --> 00:18:52,057 At 308 feet tall, over 60,000 gallons 157 00:18:52,097 --> 00:18:54,367 of waterfall over its lower falls every second. 158 00:19:04,993 --> 00:19:06,321 You know, the sheer sight and sound 159 00:19:06,345 --> 00:19:08,975 of the cascading water was almost too perfect 160 00:19:09,014 --> 00:19:11,674 for the lead geologist to put into words. 161 00:19:17,673 --> 00:19:18,973 "Standing there, I thought 162 00:19:19,007 --> 00:19:21,907 "how utterly impossible it would be 163 00:19:21,944 --> 00:19:24,804 "to describe to another the sensations inspired 164 00:19:24,830 --> 00:19:26,280 "by such a presence. 165 00:19:29,117 --> 00:19:32,547 "A grander scene was never witnessed by mortal eyes." 166 00:19:37,192 --> 00:19:41,882 Now, how in the hell are we gonna get down that? 167 00:19:48,887 --> 00:19:51,007 The morning of July 27th, 168 00:19:51,039 --> 00:19:53,439 Albert Peale wrote in his journal, 169 00:19:54,543 --> 00:19:57,163 "This morning, Elliott and I started for the falls 170 00:19:57,196 --> 00:19:58,726 "with the intention of descending 171 00:19:58,764 --> 00:20:00,134 "to the bottom of the canyon, 172 00:20:04,386 --> 00:20:07,506 "a thing which all hunters and trappers say cannot be done." 173 00:20:11,243 --> 00:20:15,263 The men were given a warning, but they did not heed it. 174 00:20:18,350 --> 00:20:21,400 They didn't have fancy climbing gear, no harnesses, 175 00:20:21,436 --> 00:20:26,326 no carabiners, just ropes made of elk hide 176 00:20:26,358 --> 00:20:28,508 that were known for snapping when they got wet. 177 00:20:30,229 --> 00:20:33,049 That, and the insatiable desire to explore. 178 00:20:33,966 --> 00:20:35,916 So they tied the ropes around their shoulders, 179 00:20:35,951 --> 00:20:37,501 crossed their fingers 180 00:20:37,536 --> 00:20:41,416 and made the 308 foot descent in just over two hours. 181 00:20:48,063 --> 00:20:49,743 When they finally reached the canyon below, 182 00:20:50,916 --> 00:20:54,146 Peale wrote, 183 00:20:54,186 --> 00:20:57,166 "All was silent except the roaring of the water 184 00:20:57,205 --> 00:21:00,775 "as its waves dashed upon the rock at our feet." 185 00:21:02,995 --> 00:21:05,425 "Far above us, 186 00:21:05,464 --> 00:21:08,434 "the trees along the edge seemed like a line of grass." 187 00:21:12,955 --> 00:21:14,985 They had arrived in the canyon, 188 00:21:20,996 --> 00:21:22,926 and what a magnificent canyon it is. 189 00:21:28,987 --> 00:21:32,437 Carved by the river for the last 160,000 years, 190 00:21:32,474 --> 00:21:35,444 the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is a work in progress. 191 00:21:37,646 --> 00:21:39,396 Today, it's 24 miles long, 192 00:21:39,431 --> 00:21:43,891 1,200 feet in depth, and 4,000 feet wide. 193 00:21:46,088 --> 00:21:48,288 Tomorrow, it'll be a little bigger. 194 00:21:50,909 --> 00:21:53,479 Every day, it gets deeper and wider 195 00:21:53,512 --> 00:21:57,072 as hydrothermal activity weakens the rock that lines it. 196 00:21:58,317 --> 00:22:02,137 That rock is rich in iron deposits, which oxidize over time, 197 00:22:03,322 --> 00:22:05,762 giving the canyon the stunning yellow colors 198 00:22:05,791 --> 00:22:07,441 that swirl inside its walls. 199 00:22:10,045 --> 00:22:13,475 The Minnetaree tribe named the river Mitseadazi, 200 00:22:14,766 --> 00:22:16,366 which means Yellow Rock River. 201 00:22:17,436 --> 00:22:20,666 When trappers and fur traders came, they interpreted 202 00:22:20,706 --> 00:22:24,656 that as Yellowstone. 203 00:22:35,287 --> 00:22:38,017 Renowned American painter Thomas Moran 204 00:22:38,056 --> 00:22:40,106 was part of the Hayden Expedition. 205 00:22:41,410 --> 00:22:44,650 His job was to capture the sites they witnessed. 206 00:22:46,231 --> 00:22:48,631 When Hayden sent Moran's renderings of the falls 207 00:22:48,667 --> 00:22:52,987 and the canyon back east to Congress, they were speechless. 208 00:22:55,190 --> 00:22:58,090 These golden canyon walls give the park her name, 209 00:22:59,211 --> 00:23:02,831 and that painting hung in the US Capitol for 80 years. 210 00:23:26,088 --> 00:23:28,168 At the edge of the canyon, the hills rise up 211 00:23:28,206 --> 00:23:31,626 and drop back off into a sprawling basin. 212 00:23:33,361 --> 00:23:36,931 Everything you see here was once underwater, 213 00:23:36,965 --> 00:23:38,965 trapped for centuries beneath the flood waters 214 00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:41,170 of the melting Ice Age glaciers. 215 00:23:42,070 --> 00:23:44,070 When the water finally drained, 216 00:23:45,190 --> 00:23:49,240 it left behind 50 square miles of sub alpine grasslands 217 00:23:49,277 --> 00:23:51,957 that would come to be named after the pioneers. 218 00:23:53,832 --> 00:23:55,622 This is Hayden Valley, 219 00:24:01,072 --> 00:24:04,232 a stunning open range to behold 220 00:24:04,259 --> 00:24:07,899 and home to one of the most iconic animals in US history, 221 00:24:09,831 --> 00:24:11,921 the great American bison. 222 00:24:19,674 --> 00:24:23,154 Weighing up to a ton and standing six feet tall at the hump, 223 00:24:24,412 --> 00:24:26,952 these are the largest mammals in North America. 224 00:24:34,239 --> 00:24:37,229 And the Yellowstone herd are the only pure descendants left 225 00:24:37,259 --> 00:24:40,159 of the Asian bison who migrated across the land bridge 226 00:24:40,195 --> 00:24:43,865 to North America 400,000 years ago. 227 00:25:03,502 --> 00:25:04,072 And in July and August, 228 00:25:04,102 --> 00:25:05,892 right when the Hayden party 229 00:25:05,921 --> 00:25:08,111 was making their way down these hills, 230 00:25:08,139 --> 00:25:10,779 dust fills the air in the valley. 231 00:25:16,815 --> 00:25:19,125 The bison run is underway. 232 00:25:22,554 --> 00:25:26,124 Female bison tend to mate with the most dominant bulls. 233 00:25:29,094 --> 00:25:31,154 This wallowing behavior by the males 234 00:25:31,179 --> 00:25:33,479 is a display of power and aggression. 235 00:25:36,751 --> 00:25:37,951 During the mating season, 236 00:25:37,986 --> 00:25:40,286 each bull will lose around 200 pounds, 237 00:25:41,840 --> 00:25:43,230 dedicating all his time and energy 238 00:25:43,258 --> 00:25:45,978 to performing for the potential mates. 239 00:25:49,497 --> 00:25:53,267 It's an interesting ritual, but highly effective 240 00:25:54,970 --> 00:25:57,860 because in Yellowstone, the bison are thriving. 241 00:25:57,889 --> 00:25:59,489 And every year, 242 00:25:59,524 --> 00:26:02,064 more and more of these wooly giants roam the valley. 243 00:26:06,047 --> 00:26:08,027 Fortunately, Mother Nature has her own way 244 00:26:08,066 --> 00:26:10,216 of balancing the ecosystem. 245 00:26:11,353 --> 00:26:15,013 And while the bison here are formidable, in Hayden Valley, 246 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,980 the Wapiti Lake Wolf Pack runs the show. 247 00:26:32,007 --> 00:26:34,237 And bison steak is on their menu. 248 00:26:44,569 --> 00:26:46,189 At 19 wolves strong, 249 00:26:48,957 --> 00:26:50,937 the pack is of force to be reckoned with, 250 00:26:57,048 --> 00:26:58,928 and they've fought off numerous attempts 251 00:26:58,967 --> 00:27:01,137 from other packs to steal their territory. 252 00:27:06,825 --> 00:27:08,075 With a flourishing population 253 00:27:08,109 --> 00:27:09,979 of over 500 wolves currently living 254 00:27:10,011 --> 00:27:12,081 in the Yellowstone ecosystem, 255 00:27:13,231 --> 00:27:15,321 it's certain that they'll be challenged again 256 00:27:15,350 --> 00:27:18,190 and a new pack will reign supreme over the valley. 257 00:27:19,621 --> 00:27:21,071 It's all part of the natural 258 00:27:21,106 --> 00:27:23,906 and inevitable ebb and flow of life. 259 00:28:54,232 --> 00:28:57,022 I mean, these guys, the time they got here, 260 00:29:00,004 --> 00:29:02,094 they must have known they'd found paradise. 261 00:29:02,774 --> 00:29:04,084 How could you not? 262 00:29:04,109 --> 00:29:08,099 You know, wild game everywhere, geology everywhere. 263 00:29:10,115 --> 00:29:12,945 Maybe it was right here where they started 264 00:29:12,984 --> 00:29:15,054 to change their mind about this place. 265 00:29:16,354 --> 00:29:19,824 Why in the hell would you build a railroad 266 00:29:19,858 --> 00:29:20,978 through all of this? 267 00:29:28,399 --> 00:29:32,049 During the expedition, Hayden was sending letters back 268 00:29:32,086 --> 00:29:34,236 to the North Pacific Railroad Company, 269 00:29:34,272 --> 00:29:38,162 just giving them updates, but at some point his tone changed 270 00:29:38,193 --> 00:29:43,163 and his communications became less about logistics 271 00:29:44,165 --> 00:29:46,695 and more about the beauty all around. 272 00:29:51,139 --> 00:29:53,209 Maybe it was a day just like this, 273 00:29:54,876 --> 00:29:56,203 right here in this spot that got to him. 274 00:31:07,248 --> 00:31:09,568 Whether the seeds of doubt had crept 275 00:31:09,601 --> 00:31:10,921 into their minds or not, 276 00:31:14,072 --> 00:31:16,122 Hayden and his team were determined 277 00:31:16,157 --> 00:31:19,157 to explore as much of this alien world as possible. 278 00:31:21,145 --> 00:31:25,165 So they headed in further, following the river 279 00:31:27,752 --> 00:31:29,202 to the lake that feeds it. 280 00:31:55,396 --> 00:31:59,326 20 miles across and 14 miles wide, Yellowstone Lake 281 00:31:59,367 --> 00:32:02,237 is the largest high elevation lake in America. 282 00:32:09,577 --> 00:32:11,277 Its 110 miles of coastline 283 00:32:11,312 --> 00:32:13,362 provide unlimited fresh drinking water 284 00:32:13,398 --> 00:32:16,318 to every species in the park during the summer. 285 00:32:23,691 --> 00:32:26,181 In winter, the liquid water 286 00:32:26,210 --> 00:32:29,200 is trapped below a sheet of ice three feet thick. 287 00:32:36,938 --> 00:32:39,238 Holes in the frozen surface mark spots 288 00:32:39,273 --> 00:32:42,293 where warm water gushes up from below its geysers 289 00:32:42,327 --> 00:32:45,277 and hot springs rage beneath the lake's peaceful surface. 290 00:32:58,543 --> 00:33:01,483 It's the result of Yellowstone's active geology. 291 00:33:02,613 --> 00:33:06,753 It's what gives life to all the park's geothermal activity. 292 00:33:10,104 --> 00:33:11,994 It's why this alien world looks 293 00:33:12,023 --> 00:33:13,943 like no other place on earth. 294 00:33:17,011 --> 00:33:19,281 And the curiosities it offers are endless. 295 00:33:25,236 --> 00:33:28,286 Black Dragon's Cauldron, a boiling mud pot 296 00:33:28,322 --> 00:33:31,292 that burst through the ground in 1948, 297 00:33:31,325 --> 00:33:34,845 once blasting mud up to 20 feet in the air. 298 00:33:34,879 --> 00:33:36,179 The cauldron has since cooled 299 00:33:36,214 --> 00:33:38,734 to a steady bubble along the surface. 300 00:33:42,420 --> 00:33:47,390 Mammoth Hot Springs, formed over thousands of years 301 00:33:48,459 --> 00:33:51,179 as spring water traveled underground through a fault line 302 00:33:52,363 --> 00:33:55,153 and then cooled as it seeped out of the limestone, 303 00:33:55,183 --> 00:33:57,653 depositing calcium carbonate. 304 00:34:01,155 --> 00:34:03,505 Algae in the warm pools turn the stone shelves 305 00:34:03,541 --> 00:34:08,461 in the travertine terrace red, green, brown, and orange. 306 00:34:38,342 --> 00:34:40,852 The Grand Prismatic Spring is the single feature 307 00:34:40,878 --> 00:34:42,308 that took up the most space 308 00:34:42,346 --> 00:34:44,966 in the Hayden Expedition's Journals. 309 00:34:49,353 --> 00:34:51,993 A mesmerizing site where water bubbles up 310 00:34:52,023 --> 00:34:53,293 from the Earth's crust. 311 00:35:02,033 --> 00:35:04,443 At 189 degrees in the center, 312 00:35:05,887 --> 00:35:08,207 it's too hot for anything to live, 313 00:35:08,239 --> 00:35:10,959 giving it the deep blue color of pure water. 314 00:35:14,328 --> 00:35:16,958 As the water spreads across the surface, it cools, 315 00:35:22,036 --> 00:35:24,936 allowing thermophilic bacteria to flourish. 316 00:35:41,472 --> 00:35:45,012 Each ring of color is a different type of bacteria 317 00:35:45,042 --> 00:35:46,992 that thrives at a different temperature. 318 00:35:49,080 --> 00:35:51,250 But bacteria aren't the only life forms 319 00:35:51,282 --> 00:35:53,922 that have adapted to the unique geology here. 320 00:35:57,371 --> 00:36:00,171 Bison migrate to the thermals in winter 321 00:36:00,208 --> 00:36:02,538 where heat melts away the heavy snow, 322 00:36:02,577 --> 00:36:04,077 exposing the grass below. 323 00:36:13,087 --> 00:36:15,117 Cliff swallows come every spring 324 00:36:15,156 --> 00:36:18,326 to make condos out of the pocked sandstone mounds left 325 00:36:18,359 --> 00:36:21,279 behind by the dormant hot springs of the past. 326 00:36:23,581 --> 00:36:27,241 The ever morphing geology of Yellowstone built these homes. 327 00:36:28,119 --> 00:36:30,249 All they have to do is move in. 328 00:36:33,774 --> 00:36:35,164 It must be nice. 329 00:36:48,372 --> 00:36:53,142 You know, it's amazing how much they all knew so long ago. 330 00:36:55,913 --> 00:36:57,407 They must have all felt the ground moving, 331 00:36:57,431 --> 00:37:01,541 heard the rock slides in the distance at night falling. 332 00:37:03,521 --> 00:37:06,311 They all knew something was pushing from down below. 333 00:37:08,876 --> 00:37:10,606 It took another 100 years to figure out what 334 00:37:10,645 --> 00:37:12,075 was really going on down there. 335 00:37:13,898 --> 00:37:15,818 Kinda wish I didn't sometimes. 336 00:37:32,266 --> 00:37:35,116 We know there's a volcano down there 337 00:37:35,152 --> 00:37:39,412 and a magma chamber 37 miles long, 18 miles wide 338 00:37:40,524 --> 00:37:43,844 and extending five miles down into the earth's crust. 339 00:37:47,498 --> 00:37:50,528 Scientists estimate an eruption could send thousands 340 00:37:50,568 --> 00:37:53,958 of cubic miles of rock and molten glass into the atmosphere, 341 00:37:59,260 --> 00:38:02,050 creating a cloud of dust and debris so thick 342 00:38:02,079 --> 00:38:04,869 that no one on earth would see the sun for years. 343 00:38:14,241 --> 00:38:17,751 That worst case scenario isn't meant to be terrifying. 344 00:38:17,778 --> 00:38:19,608 It's meant to quantify the power 345 00:38:19,647 --> 00:38:21,047 of the underground boiler 346 00:38:21,082 --> 00:38:23,152 that sits right below the surface of Yellowstone. 347 00:38:25,052 --> 00:38:27,472 That volcano has only erupted three times 348 00:38:27,505 --> 00:38:31,175 over the last two million years, so it's unpredictable, 349 00:38:32,059 --> 00:38:34,259 but the awesome heat it generates powers one 350 00:38:34,295 --> 00:38:37,155 of the most iconic landmarks in the US, 351 00:38:37,198 --> 00:38:42,298 one you can set your watch by. 352 00:38:46,374 --> 00:38:48,934 People come from all over the world to stand 353 00:38:48,959 --> 00:38:51,079 with eyes wide and mouths hung open. 354 00:38:55,049 --> 00:38:57,169 It's the most visited feature in Yellowstone. 355 00:39:02,073 --> 00:39:05,743 This is Old Faithful. 356 00:39:10,164 --> 00:39:12,834 Named for the consistency of its eruptions, 357 00:39:12,867 --> 00:39:14,287 Old Faithful is a crack 358 00:39:14,318 --> 00:39:16,768 in the earth above an underground reservoir. 359 00:39:19,023 --> 00:39:21,283 And Yellowstone's searing geothermal heat keeps 360 00:39:21,308 --> 00:39:24,378 that water steaming hot 24 hours a day, 361 00:39:25,913 --> 00:39:27,473 filling the chamber with steam pressure, 362 00:39:28,999 --> 00:39:32,849 pressure that builds and builds, 363 00:39:32,887 --> 00:39:34,987 and roughly every 90 minutes. 364 00:39:48,986 --> 00:39:51,236 After months of exploring, the Hayden team 365 00:39:51,272 --> 00:39:53,912 had seen some of the most dazzling sites in the world 366 00:39:58,896 --> 00:40:00,826 and their journals were filled with attempts 367 00:40:00,865 --> 00:40:02,965 to detail the mind blowing phenomena 368 00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:04,950 that lay right in their country's backyard. 369 00:40:09,407 --> 00:40:11,957 They knew immediately this was a special place, 370 00:40:13,994 --> 00:40:16,314 but then they came across two prospectors 371 00:40:16,347 --> 00:40:18,767 who'd laid claim to the entire area. 372 00:40:32,346 --> 00:40:37,166 They were gonna dig for gold, build a hotel 373 00:40:38,302 --> 00:40:41,422 and market the water as some sort of magical healing potion. 374 00:40:42,540 --> 00:40:46,080 And the thought of it must have just crushed Hayden. 375 00:40:48,012 --> 00:40:49,289 He knew that it would be destroyed soon, 376 00:40:49,313 --> 00:40:52,323 that his children's children would never see it 377 00:40:52,349 --> 00:40:54,049 unless he did something about it. 378 00:40:58,005 --> 00:41:00,205 "It requires no stretch of the imagination 379 00:41:00,241 --> 00:41:03,781 "to see this place in the near future thronged 380 00:41:03,811 --> 00:41:06,031 "with invalids drinking this water 381 00:41:06,063 --> 00:41:08,183 "and bathing in it for their health." 382 00:41:12,052 --> 00:41:15,962 He knew that if he could protect Yellowstone, 383 00:41:15,990 --> 00:41:18,610 if he could find a way, that it would rank 384 00:41:18,642 --> 00:41:24,032 with any natural curiosity the world can produce, his words. 385 00:41:27,935 --> 00:41:29,495 Imagine the pressure Hayden , 386 00:41:31,055 --> 00:41:35,005 Hayden must have been feeling, gold interest, 387 00:41:35,042 --> 00:41:38,052 Congress, 388 00:41:38,078 --> 00:41:40,978 railroad barons, 389 00:41:43,167 --> 00:41:45,787 powerful people wanted this land for themselves. 390 00:41:51,125 --> 00:41:53,105 He knew the fight would be uphill 391 00:41:54,161 --> 00:41:56,161 but he also knew that when you have an idea 392 00:41:57,214 --> 00:41:59,324 and you believe in it strongly enough, 393 00:42:00,935 --> 00:42:02,435 you can change the world. 31762

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