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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: WEBVTT 1 00:00:01.560 --> 00:00:06.100 It's obviously very important to understand your worth 2 00:00:06.100 --> 00:00:08.360 when you're negotiating with clients. 3 00:00:08.360 --> 00:00:10.860 People often say to me, what's your day rate? 4 00:00:10.860 --> 00:00:13.950 And I say, well, what's the job? 5 00:00:13.950 --> 00:00:16.070 You may have a standard published day rate, 6 00:00:16.070 --> 00:00:17.680 I mean, I do, you know, 7 00:00:17.680 --> 00:00:19.700 we've dreamt that up at some time 8 00:00:19.700 --> 00:00:21.850 and it's in the upper end of what we can imagine 9 00:00:21.850 --> 00:00:23.300 people paying us. 10 00:00:23.300 --> 00:00:26.520 But you need to understand your value 11 00:00:26.520 --> 00:00:29.250 within a particular proposition. 12 00:00:29.250 --> 00:00:30.980 And there's a number of factors 13 00:00:30.980 --> 00:00:33.140 that will help you calculate that. 14 00:00:33.140 --> 00:00:36.500 If let's say a large corporation asked me to do a job, 15 00:00:36.500 --> 00:00:38.510 the first thing I would think is, 16 00:00:38.510 --> 00:00:40.840 well, why they asking me? 17 00:00:40.840 --> 00:00:43.460 How many other photographers 18 00:00:43.460 --> 00:00:46.970 could they be talking to about the same job? 19 00:00:46.970 --> 00:00:50.250 In my case, I'd ask, does it involve an actor 20 00:00:50.250 --> 00:00:53.100 who I know likes to work with me, 21 00:00:53.100 --> 00:00:55.980 and isn't necessarily going to work with 22 00:00:55.980 --> 00:00:57.750 a number of other photographers? 23 00:00:57.750 --> 00:01:01.840 Now, with that one question, I've worked out, 24 00:01:01.840 --> 00:01:05.360 whether I've gone from being one in 1000 25 00:01:05.360 --> 00:01:07.540 possible photographers for this job 26 00:01:07.540 --> 00:01:10.170 to possibly one in 10. 27 00:01:10.170 --> 00:01:12.140 Because if that is so, 28 00:01:12.140 --> 00:01:14.730 then my value within that equation 29 00:01:14.730 --> 00:01:17.263 has immediately gone up massively. 30 00:01:18.110 --> 00:01:20.520 Then I ask if the mission of the job 31 00:01:20.520 --> 00:01:24.210 is in line with my unique voice as a photographer? 32 00:01:24.210 --> 00:01:27.130 And it is, maybe those 10 photographers, 33 00:01:27.130 --> 00:01:29.680 maybe we're only talking about two 34 00:01:29.680 --> 00:01:31.110 who really compete with me. 35 00:01:31.110 --> 00:01:35.280 And in some cases, maybe the job is clearly mine. 36 00:01:35.280 --> 00:01:38.260 And once you know that you're one of the only people 37 00:01:38.260 --> 00:01:39.330 for the job, 38 00:01:39.330 --> 00:01:41.910 then it's not that hard to work out your value 39 00:01:41.910 --> 00:01:43.440 within that proposition, right? 40 00:01:43.440 --> 00:01:44.540 I mean, you know, 41 00:01:44.540 --> 00:01:47.630 maybe you know that your competitor 42 00:01:47.630 --> 00:01:49.350 charges similarly to you. 43 00:01:49.350 --> 00:01:50.708 So you just put in the rate 44 00:01:50.708 --> 00:01:52.020 that you're pretty confident 45 00:01:52.020 --> 00:01:54.280 they're going to put in as well. 46 00:01:54.280 --> 00:01:56.090 I do a few other things. 47 00:01:56.090 --> 00:01:59.800 If it's a company that I haven't heard of, I look them up. 48 00:01:59.800 --> 00:02:03.357 I like to know how much money they made last year. 49 00:02:03.357 --> 00:02:06.620 And that information's free, just a Google away. 50 00:02:06.620 --> 00:02:09.060 What is the net worth of the company? 51 00:02:09.060 --> 00:02:11.100 What was their annual turnover? 52 00:02:11.100 --> 00:02:13.160 What was their profit last year? 53 00:02:13.160 --> 00:02:16.320 Because from that, I can deduce a lot. 54 00:02:16.320 --> 00:02:19.190 If a company made 12 million in profits, 55 00:02:19.190 --> 00:02:21.750 I know that they can afford X. 56 00:02:21.750 --> 00:02:24.350 If they make 3 billion in profits, 57 00:02:24.350 --> 00:02:26.140 you know they can afford more. 58 00:02:26.140 --> 00:02:28.020 And if they lost 400 quid, 59 00:02:28.020 --> 00:02:30.250 you know that they're wasting your time, right? 60 00:02:30.250 --> 00:02:33.830 So it's just research, research, research. 61 00:02:33.830 --> 00:02:36.300 And it is so, so important. 62 00:02:36.300 --> 00:02:38.350 I research the hell out of clients 63 00:02:38.350 --> 00:02:42.120 and I understand who it is that I'm dealing with. 64 00:02:42.120 --> 00:02:43.940 And then I look at usage. 65 00:02:43.940 --> 00:02:46.560 A picture they need for one Instagram post 66 00:02:46.560 --> 00:02:48.600 is nothing like the same usage 67 00:02:48.600 --> 00:02:51.070 for a global print campaign, obviously. 68 00:02:51.070 --> 00:02:54.760 So I know if it's a blue chip company 69 00:02:54.760 --> 00:02:57.010 and they're doing a global campaign 70 00:02:57.010 --> 00:02:59.830 that they are spending tens of millions 71 00:02:59.830 --> 00:03:01.580 on that advertising placement, 72 00:03:01.580 --> 00:03:05.340 then they can definitely afford to pay my top dollar rate 73 00:03:05.340 --> 00:03:06.600 for the photos, 74 00:03:06.600 --> 00:03:10.420 because they have to value that part of the process, 75 00:03:10.420 --> 00:03:12.810 otherwise, they're going to be wasting money 76 00:03:12.810 --> 00:03:16.880 on their huge ad spend by nickel and diming on the photos. 77 00:03:16.880 --> 00:03:19.070 Next, you need to understand 78 00:03:19.070 --> 00:03:22.270 something incredibly important called buyouts. 79 00:03:22.270 --> 00:03:26.173 But to do that, you first need to understand copyright. 80 00:03:27.200 --> 00:03:32.200 I really, really, really fight hard to retain my copyright, 81 00:03:33.190 --> 00:03:35.620 and I have done my whole career. 82 00:03:35.620 --> 00:03:38.930 I remember meeting the famous "Picture Post" photographer, 83 00:03:38.930 --> 00:03:41.920 Bert Hardy, when I was about 17 years old. 84 00:03:41.920 --> 00:03:44.570 And he said his best advice 85 00:03:44.570 --> 00:03:47.210 was never give away your copyright. 86 00:03:47.210 --> 00:03:48.730 Now let's be clear, 87 00:03:48.730 --> 00:03:51.960 there are definitely situations where I have, 88 00:03:51.960 --> 00:03:55.060 and it's normally because it's a job 89 00:03:55.060 --> 00:03:57.630 that I really, really, really wanted to do. 90 00:03:57.630 --> 00:04:01.270 And they were never going to do it without taking ownership. 91 00:04:01.270 --> 00:04:04.400 Or it was that I was being paid so much 92 00:04:04.400 --> 00:04:06.590 that I was prepared to make the compromise, 93 00:04:06.590 --> 00:04:09.590 or that it was just a job I simply didn't care 94 00:04:09.590 --> 00:04:11.800 that much about owning the material afterwards. 95 00:04:11.800 --> 00:04:16.010 But I would say that in 97% of my shoots 96 00:04:16.010 --> 00:04:19.490 that I've done in my career, I've owned the copyright. 97 00:04:19.490 --> 00:04:23.750 And I really have walked away from and turned down 98 00:04:23.750 --> 00:04:26.000 a number of really good jobs 99 00:04:26.000 --> 00:04:28.470 because they were demanding my copyright, 100 00:04:28.470 --> 00:04:30.030 I just wouldn't do it. 101 00:04:30.030 --> 00:04:33.093 And not because I didn't want to do the job, 102 00:04:34.030 --> 00:04:38.780 in many cases I did, but it was about the principle. 103 00:04:38.780 --> 00:04:43.750 And it's pretty easy to give clients the reassurances 104 00:04:43.750 --> 00:04:45.490 they need to convince them. 105 00:04:45.490 --> 00:04:49.860 You can let them know that they can have a license 106 00:04:49.860 --> 00:04:54.590 to use the images for as long as they possibly need them, 107 00:04:54.590 --> 00:04:57.230 but you own the rights. 108 00:04:57.230 --> 00:05:00.820 There are all sorts of deals you can make with people, 109 00:05:00.820 --> 00:05:05.820 but still keep the title of copyright holder. 110 00:05:05.840 --> 00:05:08.240 I'm incredibly grateful today 111 00:05:08.240 --> 00:05:10.460 that I didn't give my copyright away 112 00:05:10.460 --> 00:05:12.653 nearly as much as I was asked to. 113 00:05:13.790 --> 00:05:16.330 You never really know where your money's going to come from 114 00:05:16.330 --> 00:05:17.270 in the future. 115 00:05:17.270 --> 00:05:20.750 I mean, in my case, you photograph a young actor, 116 00:05:20.750 --> 00:05:22.720 you don't know that in 20 years time, 117 00:05:22.720 --> 00:05:25.410 they're not going to be Leonardo DiCaprio. 118 00:05:25.410 --> 00:05:27.740 I'm starting to think now, as I get older, 119 00:05:27.740 --> 00:05:31.290 about the pictures that I took 25, 30 years ago, 120 00:05:31.290 --> 00:05:33.670 which are actually starting to become vintage, 121 00:05:33.670 --> 00:05:35.263 which sounds terrifying to me. 122 00:05:36.124 --> 00:05:38.730 At some point I'm going to retire, 123 00:05:38.730 --> 00:05:41.250 but I own the rights to my pictures, 124 00:05:41.250 --> 00:05:45.530 the right to exhibit, to sell prints, to make books. 125 00:05:45.530 --> 00:05:49.130 I can pass them down to my children and to my grandchildren. 126 00:05:49.130 --> 00:05:54.130 Copyright is a huge, huge thing to give away. 127 00:05:54.350 --> 00:05:57.283 Please don't do it unless you have to. 128 00:05:58.440 --> 00:06:01.480 Owning your copyright also has a big impact 129 00:06:01.480 --> 00:06:04.240 on how you bill your commercial shoots 130 00:06:04.240 --> 00:06:05.903 long after you did them. 131 00:06:07.150 --> 00:06:09.610 The legal reality of your copyright 132 00:06:09.610 --> 00:06:13.020 is that when someone employs you to do a shoot, 133 00:06:13.020 --> 00:06:16.390 they employ you to type the pictures, 134 00:06:16.390 --> 00:06:18.780 but the pictures still belong to you. 135 00:06:18.780 --> 00:06:22.530 Copyright law effectively states 136 00:06:22.530 --> 00:06:27.250 that the person that creates the art owns the art. 137 00:06:27.250 --> 00:06:29.280 So if you pay me to take a photo, 138 00:06:29.280 --> 00:06:33.300 you still have to pay me to use the photo 139 00:06:33.300 --> 00:06:36.900 unless I've signed my copyright over to you. 140 00:06:36.900 --> 00:06:39.930 I certainly didn't understand that enough 141 00:06:39.930 --> 00:06:41.610 when I was younger. 142 00:06:41.610 --> 00:06:44.330 By the way, to be clear in editorial work, 143 00:06:44.330 --> 00:06:46.700 so if you're working for magazines or newspapers, 144 00:06:46.700 --> 00:06:51.030 you should absolutely always own your copyright. 145 00:06:51.030 --> 00:06:53.240 They are not paying you enough. 146 00:06:53.240 --> 00:06:55.720 Despite what rights you may give a magazine 147 00:06:55.720 --> 00:06:58.960 to use the pictures elsewhere or to syndicate, 148 00:06:58.960 --> 00:07:02.330 the copyright itself sticks with you. 149 00:07:02.330 --> 00:07:05.810 I've had a few magazines try it on in the past, 150 00:07:05.810 --> 00:07:08.060 but none of them fight me hard for it. 151 00:07:08.060 --> 00:07:12.010 I've always retained my copyright in editorial. 152 00:07:12.010 --> 00:07:14.320 The really cool thing in all this 153 00:07:14.320 --> 00:07:17.530 is a thing called the buyout. 154 00:07:17.530 --> 00:07:20.300 So I do a photo shoot for a client, 155 00:07:20.300 --> 00:07:23.900 they've paid me my day rate, but I still own the pictures. 156 00:07:23.900 --> 00:07:27.210 So if they want to use them in their ad campaign, 157 00:07:27.210 --> 00:07:30.040 then they have to do a thing called a buyout, 158 00:07:30.040 --> 00:07:32.660 which means they have to pay me 159 00:07:32.660 --> 00:07:36.350 a usage fee on those pictures. 160 00:07:36.350 --> 00:07:39.730 If it's a seasonal ad campaign, 161 00:07:39.730 --> 00:07:43.400 normally the buyout for that season 162 00:07:43.400 --> 00:07:45.300 is included in your rates. 163 00:07:45.300 --> 00:07:48.320 But if you're talking about, for instance, 164 00:07:48.320 --> 00:07:52.840 a fragrance campaign where they may use the same image, 165 00:07:52.840 --> 00:07:56.390 years and years and years down the road, 166 00:07:56.390 --> 00:07:59.233 each year, you charge a buyout. 167 00:08:00.180 --> 00:08:03.410 Now, if I'd given my copyright away, 168 00:08:03.410 --> 00:08:05.750 I would never see another penny. 169 00:08:05.750 --> 00:08:08.370 And the amazing thing with the buyout 170 00:08:08.370 --> 00:08:11.690 is that the client has to rebuy that image again, 171 00:08:11.690 --> 00:08:13.960 every single year they want it. 172 00:08:13.960 --> 00:08:16.250 Now, some businesses may buy you out 173 00:08:16.250 --> 00:08:18.310 for two or three years in one go, 174 00:08:18.310 --> 00:08:21.733 in which case you cut them some sort of a deal. 175 00:08:23.030 --> 00:08:26.180 But often you do a shoot for one year buyout. 176 00:08:26.180 --> 00:08:30.060 So when they come back the next year to reuse the images, 177 00:08:30.060 --> 00:08:35.060 you can charge them the previous year's buyout, plus 10%. 178 00:08:35.410 --> 00:08:38.820 Now don't forget rebuying the image is way cheaper 179 00:08:38.820 --> 00:08:40.290 than that client recommissioning 180 00:08:40.290 --> 00:08:42.053 a whole photo shoot production. 181 00:08:42.940 --> 00:08:45.250 And it keeps building year on year, 182 00:08:45.250 --> 00:08:50.250 it goes up 10% every year, and 10% is the industry standard. 183 00:08:51.190 --> 00:08:53.010 I once did a fragrance campaign 184 00:08:53.010 --> 00:08:56.190 that kept buying out for a total of seven years. 185 00:08:56.190 --> 00:09:00.080 It turned out to be my highest paid days work 186 00:09:00.080 --> 00:09:02.300 of my entire career. 187 00:09:02.300 --> 00:09:04.860 So the importance of understanding your rights, 188 00:09:04.860 --> 00:09:06.270 as the image maker, 189 00:09:06.270 --> 00:09:09.340 and to retain the title of copyright holder 190 00:09:09.340 --> 00:09:12.830 is incredibly important to a professional photographer. 191 00:09:12.830 --> 00:09:15.560 And the fact that you can continue to make money 192 00:09:15.560 --> 00:09:17.750 from this stuff in the future 193 00:09:17.750 --> 00:09:20.750 and that you have control over your work 194 00:09:20.750 --> 00:09:22.770 is hugely empowering. 195 00:09:22.770 --> 00:09:26.280 People fought very hard for this to become law, 196 00:09:26.280 --> 00:09:29.000 and it's something that you must fight hard for. 197 00:09:29.000 --> 00:09:30.990 Fight for your copyright. 198 00:09:30.990 --> 00:09:32.923 Now travel and prep days. 199 00:09:33.760 --> 00:09:37.280 Then you have days that you either travel to work 200 00:09:37.280 --> 00:09:39.950 or that you have to prep the actual shoots. 201 00:09:39.950 --> 00:09:42.200 It's an industry standard to get paid 202 00:09:42.200 --> 00:09:44.840 for travel days and prep days. 203 00:09:44.840 --> 00:09:48.010 If you have to travel to America to take a picture. 204 00:09:48.010 --> 00:09:51.290 Then that's a day that you're not earning money. 205 00:09:51.290 --> 00:09:54.600 If I then have to prep in a studio for a shoot, 206 00:09:54.600 --> 00:09:56.590 that's another day that I would otherwise 207 00:09:56.590 --> 00:09:58.000 be not earning money. 208 00:09:58.000 --> 00:09:59.830 So we charge a percentage. 209 00:09:59.830 --> 00:10:04.130 I generally charge 50% of my day rate for a prep day 210 00:10:04.130 --> 00:10:08.170 and a little under 50% for a travel day. 211 00:10:08.170 --> 00:10:10.470 Now sometimes I'll do all in deals, 212 00:10:10.470 --> 00:10:13.270 but everything is based on getting paid for those days 213 00:10:13.270 --> 00:10:15.400 you can't work elsewhere, 214 00:10:15.400 --> 00:10:18.100 because you're prepping or traveling. 215 00:10:18.100 --> 00:10:19.033 Editorial. 216 00:10:20.230 --> 00:10:21.590 You don't really earn money 217 00:10:21.590 --> 00:10:24.850 from editorial magazine commissions. 218 00:10:24.850 --> 00:10:26.920 And I rarely look at editorial 219 00:10:26.920 --> 00:10:31.920 as anything more than promotion and great access to work, 220 00:10:32.170 --> 00:10:34.820 to talent, to teams. 221 00:10:34.820 --> 00:10:36.220 In the fashion industry, 222 00:10:36.220 --> 00:10:38.730 the editorial work is the thing that attracts 223 00:10:38.730 --> 00:10:41.940 the paying brands to commission photographers. 224 00:10:41.940 --> 00:10:43.780 Now magazines do in part 225 00:10:43.780 --> 00:10:47.440 make their money from selling copies, but for the most part, 226 00:10:47.440 --> 00:10:51.320 they make their money by selling advertising. 227 00:10:51.320 --> 00:10:53.719 And what that means is that all the advertisers 228 00:10:53.719 --> 00:10:55.840 are looking at the magazines. 229 00:10:55.840 --> 00:10:58.670 So you do your work for next to nothing, 230 00:10:58.670 --> 00:11:00.458 or in some cases you lose money, 231 00:11:00.458 --> 00:11:03.870 because you want the pictures to look a certain way, 232 00:11:03.870 --> 00:11:05.060 and maybe those costs 233 00:11:05.060 --> 00:11:07.730 are more than the budget the magazine's given you, 234 00:11:07.730 --> 00:11:10.540 but the fashion brand sees your work, 235 00:11:10.540 --> 00:11:14.700 and then they come to you to shoot their campaigns, 236 00:11:14.700 --> 00:11:17.230 that in turn, got back into the magazines. 237 00:11:17.230 --> 00:11:18.720 That's the payoff. 238 00:11:18.720 --> 00:11:21.263 That is how editorial works. 239 00:11:23.610 --> 00:11:24.973 When you're starting out, 240 00:11:26.360 --> 00:11:28.600 you might well have to do a lot of jobs for free. 241 00:11:28.600 --> 00:11:31.210 I mean, I still do a lot of jobs for free today, 242 00:11:31.210 --> 00:11:32.640 so you'll definitely have to do them 243 00:11:32.640 --> 00:11:33.630 when you're starting out. 244 00:11:33.630 --> 00:11:34.540 What you've got to be sure 245 00:11:34.540 --> 00:11:37.650 is that the client's aren't taking advantage of you. 246 00:11:37.650 --> 00:11:40.210 But if you say you're going to get your pictures seen, 247 00:11:40.210 --> 00:11:42.030 I mean, take editorial work. 248 00:11:42.030 --> 00:11:45.450 a magazine will get you access to subjects, 249 00:11:45.450 --> 00:11:48.330 you'll work with teams, you'll work with crews, 250 00:11:48.330 --> 00:11:50.710 and you'll get your pictures seen. 251 00:11:50.710 --> 00:11:55.210 You then take those pictures and you promote them to people 252 00:11:55.210 --> 00:11:57.520 that could pay you to do those jobs. 253 00:11:57.520 --> 00:11:59.220 So you have to do the stuff for free 254 00:11:59.220 --> 00:12:00.780 to get it in your portfolio, 255 00:12:00.780 --> 00:12:02.600 in order for people to pay you 256 00:12:02.600 --> 00:12:05.270 to do what they've seen in your portfolio. 257 00:12:05.270 --> 00:12:07.230 Because they're unlikely to look at your portfolio 258 00:12:07.230 --> 00:12:10.600 of car pitches and give you a job to do landscapes, right? 259 00:12:10.600 --> 00:12:12.466 It's just not what they're going to do. 260 00:12:12.466 --> 00:12:14.753 If you're a fashion photographer, 261 00:12:14.753 --> 00:12:17.440 they're probably not going to give you a commission 262 00:12:17.440 --> 00:12:20.140 to photograph dogs. 263 00:12:20.140 --> 00:12:22.850 If you want to make a living as a photographer, 264 00:12:22.850 --> 00:12:24.250 you have to think about 265 00:12:24.250 --> 00:12:27.540 the commercial application of the work you're doing. 266 00:12:27.540 --> 00:12:30.580 Where could you see that being used 267 00:12:30.580 --> 00:12:34.250 where it will actually benefit someone's business 268 00:12:34.250 --> 00:12:36.493 enough for them to pay you to do it? 19915

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