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The polar regions are more hostile to
life than any other part of the Earth.
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00:00:46,630 --> 00:00:51,070
Human beings have little natural
protection against the cold,
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00:00:53,270 --> 00:00:56,070
so why, for thousands of years,
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00:00:56,070 --> 00:00:58,870
have we endured the hardships that
come from living here?
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00:01:00,870 --> 00:01:03,380
And what keeps us coming back today,
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00:01:03,380 --> 00:01:05,980
to the farthest extremes
of our planet?
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00:01:23,570 --> 00:01:27,770
Winter in the most northerly town
on Earth, Longyearbyen.
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Here, for three months of the year,
the sun never rises.
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Only the full moon, which never
sets as far north as this,
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sheds any light into the darkness.
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This town was built here in Svalbard,
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00:01:59,000 --> 00:02:03,320
only 700 miles from the North Pole,
to support a mine.
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00:02:05,030 --> 00:02:08,270
The Arctic is rich in coal,
oil and minerals.
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00:02:15,310 --> 00:02:17,690
In Siberia, the Russian
Arctic, the mineral
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wealth has given rise
to large cities.
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00:02:26,220 --> 00:02:29,860
This is Norilsk,
the coldest city on Earth.
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00:02:33,380 --> 00:02:38,780
Temperatures regularly drop
to below minus 50 degrees Centigrade.
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Fuel freezes in the tanks
of the trucks, and
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00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:44,100
has to be melted in a
rather alarming way.
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00:02:50,650 --> 00:02:54,210
Ships are frozen into the rivers
for nine months of the year.
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00:02:56,010 --> 00:02:58,650
The ice must be cut
away from their hulls
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00:02:58,650 --> 00:03:03,250
because steel becomes brittle
and vulnerable to the thickening ice.
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00:03:06,080 --> 00:03:09,260
Like all Arctic cities,
Norilsk depends on a
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00:03:09,260 --> 00:03:12,440
power plant which heats
everybody's home.
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00:03:13,480 --> 00:03:18,680
Waste heat from the plant even keeps
a lake ice-free all winter.
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00:03:18,680 --> 00:03:21,820
Even at air temperatures
of minus 50, the
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Norilsk Walrus Club
come here every day.
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00:03:40,190 --> 00:03:44,910
There is evidence that a dip in cold
water is good for the immune system,
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but when the water is
a degree above freezing,
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it's hard to imagine that the
benefits could outweigh the pain.
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00:04:05,610 --> 00:04:08,750
Today's Arctic city
dwellers can lead an
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00:04:08,750 --> 00:04:11,890
almost normal existence
thanks to technology.
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00:04:13,050 --> 00:04:18,410
But towns and cities are very recent
arrivals in the polar landscape.
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00:04:20,810 --> 00:04:24,730
The polar regions are the least
populated part of our planet.
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00:04:24,720 --> 00:04:29,080
Most of the Arctic remains
empty of human beings.
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In the north, the Pole itself is
covered by a freezing ocean.
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00:04:40,400 --> 00:04:44,840
Around it lie vast lands, of which
Siberia is the largest and coldest.
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00:05:00,270 --> 00:05:04,190
Human beings first ventured onto
the great plains of Siberia,
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00:05:04,180 --> 00:05:08,300
the tundra, thousands of years ago,
and some live here still.
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00:05:18,380 --> 00:05:23,260
The Dolgan are one of the few tribes
who still live in much the same way
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as those first Arctic pioneers.
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They are reindeer people.
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Reindeer are one of few animals that can
endure these bitterly cold conditions,
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scraping a living by nibbling tiny
plants that survive beneath the snow.
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00:05:51,200 --> 00:05:53,880
Nobody has ever totally
tamed reindeer,
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00:05:53,880 --> 00:05:57,640
but today's animals are docile enough
to allow the Dolgan
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00:05:57,640 --> 00:06:01,840
to drive them across the tundra in an
everlasting search for their food.
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00:06:19,710 --> 00:06:25,110
This is a typical Dolgan village,
home to just two extended families.
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00:06:36,980 --> 00:06:40,980
Here, in the coldest part of Arctic,
the only way to get water
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00:06:40,980 --> 00:06:44,900
for nine months of the year is to
melt ice from the frozen rivers.
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00:06:51,130 --> 00:06:55,050
At least there's no problem
preventing food from decay.
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00:06:55,050 --> 00:06:57,250
Outside is one big deep-freeze.
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00:07:01,010 --> 00:07:03,520
Survival is only possible
because of reindeer fur.
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00:07:03,530 --> 00:07:06,800
It makes wonderfully warm clothing,
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00:07:06,800 --> 00:07:09,200
though small children still
have to be sewn into
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00:07:09,200 --> 00:07:11,600
their clothes to prevent
instant frostbite.
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00:07:14,760 --> 00:07:18,840
The Dolgan even use reindeer fur to
insulate their huts.
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00:07:21,880 --> 00:07:25,640
This is living at its most communal.
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00:07:26,790 --> 00:07:29,590
Good relations with the in-laws are
essential.
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00:07:31,870 --> 00:07:34,670
Reindeer are so valuable
that the people
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only eat them if they
have no other choice.
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00:07:37,470 --> 00:07:41,270
Their favourite food is
raw fish from the frozen rivers.
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00:07:44,340 --> 00:07:47,080
Every week or so, these
families have to travel
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00:07:47,080 --> 00:07:49,820
to find new feeding
grounds for their herds.
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00:07:52,700 --> 00:07:55,700
First, they round up their strongest
animals with lassoes,
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00:07:55,700 --> 00:07:58,200
a skill that their
ancestors brought with
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00:07:58,200 --> 00:08:00,700
them when they came north
from Central Asia.
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00:08:08,490 --> 00:08:11,810
And then, literally, they move house.
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00:08:28,520 --> 00:08:32,120
A whole Dolgan village can move
on in just a few hours.
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00:08:32,120 --> 00:08:37,760
Over the year, they travel hundreds of
miles like this across the vast tundra.
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00:08:58,510 --> 00:09:02,790
It was the herds of reindeer, wandering
over the lands of the Arctic,
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00:09:02,790 --> 00:09:05,100
that brought the first Dolgan here.
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00:09:05,100 --> 00:09:09,620
Other people, however,
took on an even greater challenge.
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00:09:09,620 --> 00:09:13,980
They left the land and looked
for their food out on the frozen sea.
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00:09:21,260 --> 00:09:26,380
Here in the shifting world of the sea
ice, they found sea mammals.
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00:10:00,520 --> 00:10:03,220
Pasha leads a group of
Inuit men in Chukotka,
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00:10:03,220 --> 00:10:05,920
the North Eastern
corner of Russia.
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00:10:08,990 --> 00:10:12,510
The men have travelled many
hours from home in the bitter cold,
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00:10:12,510 --> 00:10:14,870
fighting their way through
a dangerous maze.
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00:10:19,670 --> 00:10:24,430
These hundred tonne ice floes could
crush their small boats like eggshells.
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00:10:40,660 --> 00:10:45,820
The men have big families, and this is
the only way they have of feeding them.
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00:10:49,290 --> 00:10:53,250
Pasha is looking for the puffs of
steamy air produced by their quarry.
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00:10:54,810 --> 00:10:57,330
An animal that is bigger than
many Arctic whales.
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00:11:05,000 --> 00:11:07,720
A two tonne seal with formidable
tusks.
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00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:15,680
A walrus.
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It's heading for open water.
They must reach it before it dives.
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00:11:25,590 --> 00:11:28,670
An angry walrus could easily
overturn the boats.
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00:11:36,710 --> 00:11:39,990
The harpoon sticks firmly in the
walrus's thick layer of blubber,
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00:11:39,990 --> 00:11:43,230
and floats attached to it prevent
the animal from diving.
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00:12:01,140 --> 00:12:05,820
Pasha wants to kill quickly with
a single clean shot.
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00:12:18,490 --> 00:12:21,430
The hunters are exhausted
after a long day,
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00:12:21,430 --> 00:12:24,370
but they still have a
lot more work to do.
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00:12:26,320 --> 00:12:31,080
This enormous prize will feed
everyone's family for weeks.
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00:12:36,840 --> 00:12:41,080
It will take many hours to butcher.
Nothing will go to waste.
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The meat is parcelled up in bags
made of the animal's skin.
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00:12:59,910 --> 00:13:02,710
It's midnight, but the sun is still
up.
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00:13:03,870 --> 00:13:05,670
Summer is almost here.
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00:13:12,060 --> 00:13:15,260
This far north,
the seasons change fast,
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00:13:15,260 --> 00:13:20,020
the sun is rising higher and
growing warmer with each passing day.
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00:13:38,370 --> 00:13:42,410
The transformation from winter to
summer is so dramatic
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00:13:42,410 --> 00:13:45,890
that it dominates the lives of all
who live here.
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00:13:48,760 --> 00:13:51,960
The ice around the coast has
almost disappeared,
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00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:56,440
and gone are the seals and walrus
that Pasha and his men relied on.
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00:13:58,840 --> 00:14:01,720
They set off on
another search for food.
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00:14:07,430 --> 00:14:10,270
Their destination is
an island in the bay.
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00:14:17,550 --> 00:14:20,510
Their walrus skin boat is
an ancient design,
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00:14:20,510 --> 00:14:24,510
light enough to carry high up
the beach so it doesn't drift away.
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00:14:36,420 --> 00:14:39,780
Once again, the men will have to work
as a team,
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00:14:39,780 --> 00:14:43,500
but one of them will be taking
very serious risks.
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00:14:48,730 --> 00:14:54,050
The lightest man in the group, Kolya,
is also the oldest.
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00:14:54,050 --> 00:14:56,690
He will trust his life
to a length of old
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00:14:56,690 --> 00:14:59,330
nylon rope and the
strength of his friends.
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00:15:15,280 --> 00:15:20,560
These 100 metre high cliffs are home
to thousands of guillemots,
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00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:22,600
and Kolya is after their eggs.
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00:15:27,430 --> 00:15:30,710
He relies on the men above to
lower him to the right place.
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00:15:34,550 --> 00:15:38,630
Kolya is tough
but his stress is obvious.
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00:15:45,750 --> 00:15:48,380
The men lower Kolya down to
the bottom of the cliff,
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00:15:48,380 --> 00:15:51,340
and from there, he works his way back
up the crumbling rock face.
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00:16:08,890 --> 00:16:09,970
Stop!
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00:16:23,690 --> 00:16:26,730
This mission will produce no more
than about 50 eggs,
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00:16:26,720 --> 00:16:30,000
but at least there's no need to
carry a packed lunch.
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00:16:44,760 --> 00:16:49,240
Over the years, many men have fallen to
their deaths collecting seabird eggs.
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00:16:51,270 --> 00:16:53,630
This is truly dangerous work.
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00:17:05,030 --> 00:17:07,980
These Arctic peoples can't
grow crops.
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00:17:07,980 --> 00:17:12,220
The frozen ground never thaws to
allow them to do so.
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00:17:12,220 --> 00:17:16,580
They rely on animals for their food
so the chance to collect a few
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00:17:16,580 --> 00:17:20,820
dozen eggs has to be taken,
even if it means risking your life.
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00:17:37,370 --> 00:17:42,210
The change of season has transformed
the Arctic's coastline
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00:17:42,210 --> 00:17:44,690
and inland, the difference
is just as extreme.
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00:17:49,400 --> 00:17:52,120
July temperatures on
the tundra can be
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00:17:52,120 --> 00:17:54,840
surprisingly high, over
30 degrees centigrade.
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00:17:58,960 --> 00:18:02,320
Reindeer now move not just to
find fresh pasture,
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00:18:02,320 --> 00:18:06,320
but also to avoid the summer
swarms of blood sucking flies.
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00:18:08,870 --> 00:18:13,710
To keep their animals healthy, the local
herders are driving them to the sea.
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00:18:16,070 --> 00:18:20,750
The cooler conditions on
the coast bring relief to the herds
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00:18:20,750 --> 00:18:23,310
and the chance, every year,
for different tribes to meet.
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00:18:26,740 --> 00:18:29,200
Pasha and his hunters
live close by.
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00:18:29,200 --> 00:18:31,660
They've had word of
the herders' arrival.
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00:18:37,660 --> 00:18:42,460
The hunters' cargo is highly
prized for the winter ahead,
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00:18:42,460 --> 00:18:44,860
fat-rich walrus meat
that's been fermenting
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00:18:44,860 --> 00:18:47,260
in the skin bags for two months.
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00:18:49,170 --> 00:18:53,850
Today will see an exchange that has
taken place every summer for centuries.
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00:18:55,370 --> 00:18:59,370
The herders barter reindeer
skins for walrus meat.
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00:18:59,370 --> 00:19:04,930
Pooling their resources has helped these
communities to survive for so long.
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00:19:10,480 --> 00:19:15,160
A fry-up of guillemot eggs is all the
better when shared with old friends.
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00:19:18,400 --> 00:19:23,000
Summer brings a brief
chance for isolated peoples to meet.
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00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:26,840
This is an opportunity to exchange
news, arrange weddings,
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00:19:26,830 --> 00:19:29,790
and tell the latest jokes.
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00:19:38,750 --> 00:19:41,630
By August, the summer is over.
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00:19:41,630 --> 00:19:45,510
Winter arrives only too swiftly,
but the peoples of the Arctic,
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00:19:45,510 --> 00:19:49,540
who came here originally to hunt,
have devised ways to deal with
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00:19:49,540 --> 00:19:53,260
the hostile and changing conditions
that have stood the test of time.
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00:19:56,380 --> 00:19:59,060
Today, there's a new draw to the
Arctic.
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00:20:06,570 --> 00:20:09,530
This is Greenland, a
territory of Denmark now
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00:20:09,530 --> 00:20:12,490
known to be rich in oil
and precious metals.
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00:20:24,610 --> 00:20:28,330
This sled team is
part of the Danish Special Forces.
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00:20:30,280 --> 00:20:33,720
They're on one of the world's toughest
journeys, a 2,000 mile patrol
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00:20:33,720 --> 00:20:37,600
to maintain Denmark's
claim to this valuable wilderness.
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00:20:42,160 --> 00:20:45,140
But the patrol's mission
is only possible with
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00:20:45,140 --> 00:20:48,120
the help of man's oldest
Arctic companion.
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00:20:55,790 --> 00:20:58,270
Rasmus and Roland have spent the
summer months training
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00:20:58,270 --> 00:21:02,030
and getting to know their team of
Greenland huskies.
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00:21:02,030 --> 00:21:06,230
They need to have a very close bond
with every single dog.
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00:21:06,230 --> 00:21:10,020
This is Roger and Armstrong,
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00:21:10,020 --> 00:21:15,100
actually the oldest dog in the whole
patrol, but he's still going strong.
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00:21:17,860 --> 00:21:21,740
The men are totally dependent on
the stamina of their dogs,
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00:21:21,740 --> 00:21:26,340
which will keep on running all through
the bitter cold of the winter.
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00:21:31,610 --> 00:21:36,130
This is the last time the team will
see the sun for two months.
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00:21:41,050 --> 00:21:43,770
The most intelligent dogs
always lead,
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00:21:43,770 --> 00:21:48,010
choosing the safest route, feeling
for hidden crevasses and thin ice.
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00:21:58,560 --> 00:22:03,120
This is one of six teams that patrol
the whole of northeast Greenland,
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the only people in an
empty wilderness that is
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00:22:05,900 --> 00:22:08,680
larger than France and
Great Britain combined.
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00:22:12,790 --> 00:22:17,270
Conditions here are too extreme
for current mining technology,
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00:22:17,270 --> 00:22:21,230
but some day, ways will be found of
digging out the huge mineral treasures
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00:22:21,230 --> 00:22:23,470
that lie hidden within these
mountains.
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00:22:26,190 --> 00:22:31,990
The patrol secures Denmark's claim to
do so simply by being here.
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00:22:43,380 --> 00:22:45,780
But it's not the
prospect of getting rich
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00:22:45,780 --> 00:22:48,170
that makes men sign
up for this patrol,
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00:22:48,170 --> 00:22:50,610
it's the chance for the journey of a
lifetime.
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00:22:51,650 --> 00:22:54,430
The team travel over
the ice for six
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00:22:54,430 --> 00:22:57,210
months, covering up
to 40 miles in a day.
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00:23:01,130 --> 00:23:04,650
Friendship and teamwork are essential
if they're to succeed.
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00:23:06,650 --> 00:23:11,280
Their dogs can sleep outside no
matter how cold it gets.
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00:23:11,280 --> 00:23:14,680
Rasmus and Roland have a
nice cosy tent.
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00:23:18,800 --> 00:23:22,240
They have a few modern conveniences,
including a radio,
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00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:26,560
with which they report their position
back to headquarters in Denmark
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00:23:26,560 --> 00:23:28,600
and catch up on the latest news.
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00:23:32,390 --> 00:23:34,630
Right now it's the section of money,
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00:23:34,630 --> 00:23:39,390
what's new in the economy in
Denmark, the financial crisis
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00:23:39,390 --> 00:23:42,870
and all the other things that we
actually don't care about out here.
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00:23:44,350 --> 00:23:46,830
If you can cope with
the conditions, then
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00:23:46,830 --> 00:23:49,300
winter in the Arctic
can be magical,
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00:23:49,300 --> 00:23:53,500
especially when the greatest
light show on Earth is overhead.
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00:24:03,140 --> 00:24:06,820
The first humans in the Arctic
believed the Northern Lights,
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00:24:06,820 --> 00:24:10,650
or aurora borealis,
were dancing spirits.
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00:24:10,650 --> 00:24:13,590
Now we know the lights are
caused by electrically
198
00:24:13,590 --> 00:24:16,530
charged particles
streaming from the sun,
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00:24:16,530 --> 00:24:19,890
attracted by the magnetic
pull of the earth's poles.
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00:24:32,600 --> 00:24:37,080
A big aurora storm contains enough
energy to knock out satellite
201
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:41,480
communications and power supplies
across the northern hemisphere,
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00:24:41,480 --> 00:24:44,840
so understanding the aurora
is vital.
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00:24:50,710 --> 00:24:53,990
In Alaska,
rockets are used to study the Lights.
204
00:24:56,510 --> 00:24:59,990
A hundred miles up, at the edge
of outer space, the rockets
205
00:24:59,990 --> 00:25:03,630
release a cloud of glowing smoke
that's visible from earth.
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00:25:08,740 --> 00:25:12,980
The smoke is blown by fierce winds
which are generated by the aurora.
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00:25:16,940 --> 00:25:20,740
Mapping the movement of the smoke
helps scientists to understand
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00:25:20,740 --> 00:25:24,620
how this unearthly spectacle
affects our atmosphere.
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00:25:45,610 --> 00:25:50,690
They constantly monitor
the aurora to help protect us
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00:25:50,680 --> 00:25:53,840
from its effects, so the rest of us
can simply enjoy the magic,
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00:25:53,840 --> 00:25:57,800
just as the Arctic's first people must
have done, thousands of years ago.
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00:26:13,670 --> 00:26:16,390
For all the many
peoples of the Arctic,
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00:26:16,390 --> 00:26:19,030
the aurora is a
reminder of the sun's
214
00:26:19,030 --> 00:26:21,670
presence throughout the
dark days of winter.
215
00:26:26,310 --> 00:26:29,180
But when the sun
is below the horizon in the north,
216
00:26:29,180 --> 00:26:31,980
it's above it at the southern
end of our planet.
217
00:26:35,260 --> 00:26:38,020
Here, humanity's history has
been very different.
218
00:26:43,740 --> 00:26:47,180
Antarctica is far colder
than the Arctic,
219
00:26:47,180 --> 00:26:51,900
and 99% of its land is permanently
blanketed by ice.
220
00:26:53,690 --> 00:26:57,210
Antarctica is so utterly remote
221
00:26:57,210 --> 00:26:59,890
and inhospitable that no people
ever settled here.
222
00:27:03,450 --> 00:27:07,050
It was only 200 years ago that the
first human beings
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00:27:07,050 --> 00:27:09,570
even glimpsed the vast continent.
224
00:27:17,280 --> 00:27:20,480
The first people who crossed
the Southern Ocean did
225
00:27:20,480 --> 00:27:24,480
so for the same reason that the first
people went to the Arctic Ocean,
226
00:27:24,480 --> 00:27:26,800
to hunt sea mammals.
227
00:27:39,310 --> 00:27:43,470
The populations of whales
and seals are only now beginning to
228
00:27:43,470 --> 00:27:47,110
recover from 150 years
of intensive hunting.
229
00:28:02,460 --> 00:28:05,320
But none of those hunters
ever tried to venture into
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00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,180
the frigid interior of
the Antarctic continent.
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00:28:10,170 --> 00:28:15,330
The first successful attempt to do that
was made only a hundred years ago.
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This hut was the base
for one of the most
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00:28:20,130 --> 00:28:22,730
famous expeditions
in polar history.
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00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:34,040
It was from here in 1911 that
Captain Scott and his team
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00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:38,480
launched their attempt to be the
first people to reach the South Pole.
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00:28:42,920 --> 00:28:45,520
The cold, dry conditions have
preserved the interior
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00:28:45,520 --> 00:28:50,000
of the hut almost exactly
as the expedition members left it.
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00:28:55,630 --> 00:28:58,510
Expedition photographer
Herbert Ponting
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00:28:58,510 --> 00:29:01,390
captured the spirit of
the age of exploration.
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00:29:06,470 --> 00:29:10,990
These first explorers borrowed
the techniques of the Arctic peoples.
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00:29:12,220 --> 00:29:17,540
They wore fur gloves and boots
and burned seal blubber to keep warm.
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00:29:19,620 --> 00:29:23,900
They built sleds based on a
traditional Inuit design.
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00:29:29,740 --> 00:29:33,580
They even made their sleeping
bags from reindeer hide.
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00:29:39,690 --> 00:29:45,330
Scott and his men sought the glory of
discovery in an untouched wilderness,
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00:29:45,330 --> 00:29:48,010
and died in the attempt.
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00:29:48,010 --> 00:29:51,760
But he, and those who followed him,
were the first to reveal
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00:29:51,760 --> 00:29:54,920
the splendour of Antarctica to
the rest of the world.
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00:30:03,080 --> 00:30:07,360
The lure of adventure still draws
intrepid travellers today.
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00:30:07,360 --> 00:30:09,840
Like the first explorers,
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00:30:09,830 --> 00:30:14,950
most modern visitors come during the
brief summer when the cold relents
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00:30:14,950 --> 00:30:20,270
enough for the toughest icebreakers
to reach the edge of the continent,
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00:30:20,270 --> 00:30:22,750
but most still need
a helicopter to go further.
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00:30:31,900 --> 00:30:35,740
The scenery in Antarctica is
magnificent and dramatic,
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00:30:35,740 --> 00:30:39,780
but what really attracts people
here is the wildlife.
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00:30:42,100 --> 00:30:45,020
An emperor penguin colony is
a particular highlight.
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00:30:49,380 --> 00:30:51,660
Because human beings
didn't arrive in the
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00:30:51,660 --> 00:30:53,930
Antarctic until the
past few centuries,
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00:30:53,930 --> 00:30:56,530
the animals have never
developed a fear of man.
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00:31:00,810 --> 00:31:05,530
But very strict regulations govern how
close people can approach any wildlife.
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00:31:07,410 --> 00:31:09,610
And when visitors
leave, they must take
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00:31:09,610 --> 00:31:11,810
every trace of their
visit away with them.
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00:31:39,590 --> 00:31:45,110
Since 1959, the whole of Antarctica has
been protected by international treaty.
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The nations of the world have agreed
that no country can claim Antarctica,
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or prospect for its oil or minerals.
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The only significant human activities
allowed here are those that
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00:32:00,300 --> 00:32:03,060
extend our scientific knowledge.
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00:32:07,100 --> 00:32:10,900
But unlocking Antarctica's secrets
requires some unusual tools.
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00:32:29,130 --> 00:32:33,000
This brand new robot submarine has
been designed to go
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00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:35,560
far beyond the limits of any human.
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00:32:48,000 --> 00:32:50,820
Today, this diver is
putting the sub through
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00:32:50,820 --> 00:32:53,630
its paces on one of
its very first dives.
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00:32:54,950 --> 00:32:58,670
It's designed to be small
and nimble enough
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00:32:58,670 --> 00:33:02,630
to explore the Antarctic seabed
without damaging it.
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00:33:16,980 --> 00:33:21,340
The submarine's mission, as it
journeys into the unknown,
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00:33:21,340 --> 00:33:24,700
is to map the seafloor and look for
species new to science.
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00:33:40,250 --> 00:33:43,150
The seawater here is a
degree below zero, so even
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00:33:43,150 --> 00:33:46,050
the toughest human diver
can't stay down for long.
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00:33:49,650 --> 00:33:54,770
The submarine will explore deeper under
the ice than anyone has gone before.
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00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:04,360
From the depths of the ocean to
the highest peaks of the land,
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00:34:04,360 --> 00:34:07,140
new discoveries are being
made even in places
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00:34:07,140 --> 00:34:09,920
which were first visited
over a century ago.
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00:34:22,350 --> 00:34:25,130
Mount Erebus was an
irresistible draw to
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00:34:25,130 --> 00:34:27,910
the legendary explorer
Ernest Shackleton.
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00:34:29,110 --> 00:34:34,580
In 1908, his men became the first to
climb this active volcano.
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00:34:34,580 --> 00:34:39,380
They soon discovered that this is the
coldest place on the Antarctic coast.
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00:34:40,380 --> 00:34:42,500
Today's explorers
still have to guard
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00:34:42,500 --> 00:34:44,620
against frostbite in
the height of summer
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00:34:44,620 --> 00:34:48,300
when temperatures rarely creep
above minus 30 degrees centigrade.
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00:34:54,250 --> 00:34:59,050
Shackleton's men had no idea
of the extraordinary spectacle
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00:34:59,050 --> 00:35:01,370
that lay beneath their feet.
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00:35:06,850 --> 00:35:09,450
Yep, OK, up on the wall there
somewhere now. Yeah.
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00:35:09,450 --> 00:35:12,880
Under the ice and snow is a network
of caves,
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00:35:12,880 --> 00:35:17,840
which only a handful of expert cavers
have ever dared to enter.
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00:35:24,200 --> 00:35:29,400
This is the first scientific
expedition to explore them in detail.
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00:35:34,830 --> 00:35:39,550
Here, there are ice formations that
occur nowhere else on Earth.
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00:35:42,350 --> 00:35:46,470
Each cave contains its own unique
collection of structures.
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00:36:13,970 --> 00:36:19,730
The team is mapping the caves to see how
their shape changes over the years.
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00:36:19,730 --> 00:36:22,330
OK, flat side to here.
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00:36:30,480 --> 00:36:35,520
That's 126.8 degrees for the angle.
300
00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:37,080
126.8. Correct.
301
00:36:37,080 --> 00:36:41,680
The steam leaking from vents
in the side of the volcano
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00:36:41,680 --> 00:36:45,960
is constantly sculpting this labyrinth
that extends deep under the ice.
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00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:51,720
When the hot breath of the volcano
hits the icy walls,
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00:36:51,720 --> 00:36:55,440
the moisture in the air
freezes into beautiful shapes.
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00:37:08,910 --> 00:37:13,670
Some of the crystals are so unusual
that the cavers are investigating
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00:37:13,660 --> 00:37:17,140
a remote but tantalising
possibility about their formation.
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00:37:19,820 --> 00:37:22,980
Could it be that some of these
extraordinary crystal shapes
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00:37:22,980 --> 00:37:27,780
are formed by highly specialised
bacteria, living in the ice?
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00:37:43,530 --> 00:37:45,890
Nobody yet knows the answer.
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00:37:45,890 --> 00:37:49,730
This is just one of the many strange
mysteries that draw people to
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00:37:49,730 --> 00:37:52,890
work in a place that is
so hostile to human life.
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00:38:00,440 --> 00:38:05,280
While some scientists come to Erebus
to explore its bizarre ice caves,
313
00:38:05,280 --> 00:38:10,560
others visit the volcano to study
the innermost workings of our planet.
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00:38:16,350 --> 00:38:20,230
Erebus is one of the most active
volcanoes on Earth,
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00:38:20,230 --> 00:38:24,830
but even so, volcanologists work on
the very rim of its crater.
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00:38:26,510 --> 00:38:31,310
They stand in the bitter cold,
while 100 metres below them
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00:38:31,310 --> 00:38:34,790
is a lava lake where temperatures are
over a thousand degrees centigrade.
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00:38:38,620 --> 00:38:41,500
This is a rare glimpse
of the molten rock
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00:38:41,500 --> 00:38:44,380
that lies beneath
the earth's crust.
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00:38:59,050 --> 00:39:02,530
But research here is looking
up as well as down,
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00:39:02,530 --> 00:39:06,170
measuring how the gases that bubble
out of the volcano
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00:39:06,170 --> 00:39:09,210
influence the make-up of the air we
breathe.
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00:39:12,480 --> 00:39:17,720
Antarctica is the best place to
measure any changes in our atmosphere
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00:39:17,720 --> 00:39:21,280
because it has the least polluted air
on Earth.
325
00:39:22,440 --> 00:39:27,480
It's also the perfect place to launch
more outward-looking missions.
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00:39:33,310 --> 00:39:37,790
This balloon, made of material no
thicker than Clingfilm,
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00:39:37,790 --> 00:39:40,790
will eventually grow to
be 300 metres tall.
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00:39:43,910 --> 00:39:47,790
It will carry a device for detecting
cosmic rays,
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00:39:47,790 --> 00:39:52,990
tiny particles from the beginning of
time that are only now reaching earth.
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00:40:03,820 --> 00:40:08,820
The balloon will travel to the very
edge of outer space
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00:40:08,820 --> 00:40:12,900
to gather clues about the formation
of the universe.
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00:40:21,410 --> 00:40:26,330
Even today, very few ever make
the journey inland from the coast.
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00:40:27,530 --> 00:40:31,970
We still know remarkably little
about the interior of the continent.
334
00:40:33,640 --> 00:40:38,880
The people on this plane are trying to
answer one of the fundamental questions.
335
00:40:38,880 --> 00:40:41,240
How much ice is there in Antarctica?
336
00:40:47,840 --> 00:40:50,200
They measure
the depth of the ice sheet,
337
00:40:50,200 --> 00:40:54,200
which is over 4,000 metres in places,
using radar.
338
00:40:56,110 --> 00:40:59,150
Their work will enable us to see
339
00:40:59,150 --> 00:41:02,430
how the volume of Antarctica's ice
changes in the future.
340
00:41:03,630 --> 00:41:07,150
It also makes it possible to map
a hidden landscape.
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00:41:20,460 --> 00:41:26,140
This plane is following the same route
through the Trans-Antarctic Mountains
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00:41:26,140 --> 00:41:29,260
that Captain Scott took a hundred
years ago.
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00:41:29,260 --> 00:41:32,040
His team hauled their
sleds over a hundred
344
00:41:32,040 --> 00:41:34,820
miles up this glacier,
the Beardmore.
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00:41:41,850 --> 00:41:46,170
Skirting seemingly endless crevasses,
with no map to guide them
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00:41:46,170 --> 00:41:51,170
and no idea of what lay ahead, it was
a journey of extraordinary suffering.
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00:42:02,200 --> 00:42:04,640
Their target lay beyond the
mountains,
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00:42:04,640 --> 00:42:10,000
over 3,000 metres above sea level,
on the Antarctic Plateau.
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00:42:16,590 --> 00:42:20,230
An unbroken sheet of ice,
larger than Western Europe,
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00:42:20,230 --> 00:42:24,830
this is the coldest, the windiest,
the most lifeless place on Earth.
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00:42:29,710 --> 00:42:34,070
Roald Amundsen's team narrowly
defeated Scott's to become
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00:42:34,060 --> 00:42:40,300
the first people to reach the South
Pole on the 14th of December 1911.
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00:42:41,460 --> 00:42:47,060
Nobody else successfully completed the
journey for nearly 50 years after that.
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00:42:51,300 --> 00:42:55,890
But, since 1957, there has been
a permanent base at the South Pole.
355
00:42:55,890 --> 00:42:58,530
You can even land a plane on
the ice runway.
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00:43:01,730 --> 00:43:04,550
The early explorers
would be astounded by
357
00:43:04,550 --> 00:43:07,370
the facilities at the
South Pole today.
358
00:43:10,650 --> 00:43:13,490
Construction work isn't
easy when the average
359
00:43:13,490 --> 00:43:16,320
summer temperature is minus
25 degrees Centigrade.
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00:43:17,640 --> 00:43:21,200
But, despite the difficulties, the
most high-tech scientific research
361
00:43:21,200 --> 00:43:25,600
station ever built was
unveiled here in 2006.
362
00:43:31,360 --> 00:43:35,630
The brand new Amundsen-Scott South
Pole Station is designed to
363
00:43:35,630 --> 00:43:39,790
cope with the World's most
extreme conditions.
364
00:43:39,790 --> 00:43:45,150
The building's sloping edge deflects
the prevailing wind.
365
00:43:45,150 --> 00:43:48,710
Beneath, there are stilts that can
raise the whole building
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00:43:48,710 --> 00:43:51,750
a further eight metres to keep
it above the accumulating snow.
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00:44:00,540 --> 00:44:06,220
Living inside is as close to being on a
space-station as you can find on Earth.
368
00:44:06,220 --> 00:44:10,700
This base is totally self-sufficient,
the people are completely
369
00:44:10,700 --> 00:44:15,260
cut off from the outside world for
more than half the year over winter.
370
00:44:22,410 --> 00:44:26,770
The total darkness makes this the
perfect place to study the night sky.
371
00:44:34,760 --> 00:44:38,840
The group of star gazers will be
the most isolated community on our
372
00:44:38,840 --> 00:44:42,160
planet, but they will have
all their needs catered for.
373
00:44:47,760 --> 00:44:51,920
There is even a greenhouse where
fresh vegetables grow under
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00:44:51,920 --> 00:44:56,600
artificial light all through
the darkest, coldest winter anywhere.
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00:45:13,180 --> 00:45:18,140
The sun sets in March at the South Pole,
and won't rise again for six months.
376
00:45:24,260 --> 00:45:29,220
For a few days at this time of year,
high altitude clouds of ice crystals
377
00:45:29,220 --> 00:45:31,600
continue to catch the
sunlight, even when
378
00:45:31,600 --> 00:45:33,980
the sun itself is far
below the horizon.
379
00:45:51,570 --> 00:45:54,760
But soon all trace of the sun
disappears,
380
00:45:54,760 --> 00:45:59,960
and today's over-wintering scientists
remember the first explorers.
381
00:46:04,320 --> 00:46:08,360
These men, who endured
the winter in flimsy wooden huts,
382
00:46:08,360 --> 00:46:12,760
borrowed knowledge from the Arctic
pioneers before them,
383
00:46:12,760 --> 00:46:18,470
but they came here to study and explore,
rather than to hunt or exploit.
384
00:46:18,470 --> 00:46:23,470
They embodied the human spirit that has
enabled us to survive at the poles.
385
00:46:29,310 --> 00:46:32,990
Here, we are pushed to our limits,
but in being pushed, humanity has
386
00:46:34,700 --> 00:46:40,300
achieved the extraordinary
and opened up the last frontier.36117
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